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Polliwog Sailboat Plans

Polliwog Sailboat Plans



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Published by Jim
Vintage article on building Polliwog, an 18 foot sloop sailboat.
Vintage article on building Polliwog, an 18 foot sloop sailboat.

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Published by: Jim on Sep 23, 2009
Copyright:Attribution Non-commercial


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An 18-foot cruising sailboat.Beam: 6 feet 5 inches.Draft: 2 feet 10 inches.By William Garden
Naval Architect
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Polliwog is built upsidedown. Here, the stem andthe four sawed frames arein place on the harplngs.Stern will be added next.
OLLIWOG was designed for youngpeople who love cruising. Lively undersail and roomy on deck and below, she's agood type to acquire when thoughts of avoyage of exploration begin pushing asidestudies and other trifles. While she is but 18feet long (the size of the usual day-sailer),she has adequate depth and enough out-side ballast to enable her to make coastwisepassages in safety—and for exploring, thedraft of less than three feet is ideal.For auxiliary power, we suggest install-ing a one-cylinder, four or five-hp marineengine. Several manufacturers make suchengines. Among them are the KermathManufacturing Co., Detroit 8; the NadlerFoundry and Machine Co., Inc., Plaque-mine, La.; and Palmer Bros. Engines, Inc.,Cos Cob, Conn.The layout in the snug cuddy cabin hasbeen kept simple to allow maximum use of the available room. A piece of netting runsalong each side for stowing clothes andgear. A couple of air mattresses on theflooring are ideal for sleeping or lounging.Two shelves at the forward end of the cabintake cooking utensils and food. The cock-pit is long enough so that it can be con-verted into an extra sleeping location byrigging a tent over the boom.Construction is not too difficult. After alittle study and thought, the general methodof procedure will become apparent. Sincestandard boatbuilding operations are fol-lowed, no specific instructions are needed.We advise you to get a good book on boat-building, such as Monk's
Modern Boat-building
or Steward's
Small Boat Construc-tion,
for answers to the problems that willcome up on the job.All oak specified in the Lumber List asbeing bending oak should be green whenpurchased; it is impossible to impart verymuch bend to oak that has been dried. Thehull is built on four sawed frames withsmall intermediate frames bent in between.Since sawed frames are ticklish to get right(they require beveling and exact work tomake the boat fair up), we have kept themto a minimum. The intermediate framescan be bent in hot after the planking is on.The ballast keel will require a patternso the foundry can make it the right size.Cut the stock up into several pieces, glueand fasten them together, and fair off the forward and after ends as shown onthe lines drawing. Mark the locationsof the bolts on the top and bottom tospot the cores. Be sure to plane a slighttaper from top to bottom and screw twoeyebolts in the top so the pattern can bepulled out of the sand. Finish the patternby carefully sanding it smooth.The photos show the boat being built up-side down. By going at the job in this man-ner, the'planking is easier to work and mostfastenings are driven at a downward ratherthan an upward angle. After Polliwog isplanked, bore the keel-bolt holes; then geta gang together and turn the boat rightsideup onto her iron keel.Make the mast and boom from spruce orfir. Spruce spars are preferable becausethey are lighter and better looking. For firspars, find a stand of timber where theyoung trees are bunched so they have hadto grow straight to get to sunlight. Cut onethat's about 4-1/2 in. in diameter and another3-1/2 in. in diameter. For best results, theyshould be cut in January, when the sap isdown. Skin off the bark, rub some tallowon the exposed wood to slow the dryingprocess, and put the sticks out of the sunin a shed or some other cool place to dry forabout three months. Then plane them downto the right diameters by first squaring,
 Mechanix Illustrated 

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