T

he Val di Fiemme has always been a veritable crosswords for different cultures each of which left behind distinctive and varied artistic expressions. One finds art from the Veneto,Lombardy, Germany, South-Tyrol and Ladin lands. In the villages of Tesero, Cavalese and Predazzo, one finds frescos and paintings from these very areas along with German-style Gothic churches, palaces inspired by the Italian Renaissance and Baroque altars created by Ladin artists. In Tesero, there is the Roman bridge considered the most important achitectural piece of art of the Middle Age in Fiemme. There are elegant fifteenth century-style bell towers are San Leonardo in Tesero and Varena's. The end of the fifteenth century and at the beginning of sixteenth century there occurs the remodeling of church SantEliseo in Tesero and of the Bishop's Palace: the palace of the Grand Community of Fiemme in Cavalese. The palace, with its Renaissance and Gothic era is the best known example of the Clesian art of Trentino that reflects the governance of the Prince Bishop Bernardo Clesio (1514-1539). The valleys most ancient paintings are on the faade of Casa Cazzana (also called Casa Riccabona) in Cavalese (XIV). The local painting prospered in the Seventeenth century, when they frescoed some of the churches of Fiemme. Orazio Giovannelli (1588-1639) is the leading figure of the School of Art of Fiemme, the only one in Trentino. Giovannelli was born in Tesero and studied in Venice. His works of art bring the Mannerism of Veneto to the mountains of Trentino, in particular into the creation of the altar piece in Valfloriana. Also Francesco Furlaner was from Tesero: he painted the altar piece in the parish church of Panchi (1677-1719). The 17-century most important artist is Giuseppe Alberti from Tesero (1540-1716), architect and painter.

The Art of the Val di Fiemme

Afterwards, Cristoforo Unterperger (1732-1798) distinguished himself. He studied with Francesco Sebaldo and Michelangelo and moved to Vienna and to Rome. Two of his masterpieces are the altar piece of San Giorgio in the parish church of Predazzo and the oval canvas of Assunta of the church in Parco della Pieve of Cavalese. Unterperger's pupil was Antonio Longo (1748-1820), priest, painter and architect of Varena, author of his house's fresco in Varena and of numerous Crucified Christ and paintings.

The protagonists of Fiemme's painting in the Nineteenth century were Francesco Antonio (1754-1836), Antonio (1792-1855) and Carlo Vanzo (1824-1893). The painter from Predazzo, Bartolomeo Rasmo (1810-1846), was inspired by Tintoretto. He painted the Last Dinner of the parish church of Ziano. THE PALACE The ancient headquarters of the Magnifica Comunit di Fiemme, with its Art Gallery Museum and the historical archive, nowadays is one of the most active and elegant museums. The palace represents - considering what is contained in it, its history, its tradition, its marked identity handed down to the local people - the natural space, the elected place where man can carry on composing a long story of amazing civil and human meaning. The excellent sevenyear-long restoration, finished in 2012, has given back to citizens of Val di Fiemme an extraordinary and wonderful temple of culture.

Guided and theatrical visits reveal all the secrets that are still hidden in the palace's ancient walls. After the renovation, the visitor can also explore the jails of the nineBut the most relevant century for the painting in Fiemme teenth century where he can see the suggestive etchings is the Eighteenth, when the Unterperger's dynasty that can tell life, memories and sentences of the people became masters of Trentino's Baroque art. The forefa- imprisoned there. ther Michelangelo Unterperger (1695-1758), who studied in Venice, became the dean of the Academy of Vienna, A discreet lighting instils to the museum and to its art but in his valley he left important masterpieces like The gallery a mysterious atmosphere: hither and thither it Guardian Angel in the church of Stramentizzo, nowadays casts surprising lighted layouts that bring out the beauty arranged in the Parish of Molina di Fiemme. Francesco of paintings and frescos. The 150 masterpieces of the Sebaldo Unterperger's pieces of art (1706-1776), School of Art of Fiemme (made by Michelangelo, Michelangelo's brother, can be watched in Molina di Cristoforo and Francesco Sebaldo Unterperger) hung on the walls showing their renewed charm. Some canvas are Fiemme and in the churches of Tesero. 25

26

so well-lighted to let the visitor penetrate the space and In the Sixteenth century, these jail cells were savage prisapproach the subject, as if they would tell him something ons too, where the so-called witches of Cavalese were secret. jailed. Down there are guarded, with great respect, the signs that had dictated the passing of a very dark and far time.

In the prisons, the visitors can grab their torch to better watch the writings carved by the prisoners - actions, thoughts, memories. For instance, a cooper finely reproduced his tools on the wall. Another prisoner captured By exploring the rooms of the palace and going up and the image of his family house, another one proudly down the stairs, the visitor can experience the most important historical pages of Val di Fiemme. The guides dreamt of stabbing someone else's chest. reveal the ambitious of the prince-bishops and of the artists of the School of art of Fiemme, the theatrical visits embellish ancient habits, love stories, prisoners life and ancient gossip. Costume shows lead the public into the rooms of the prince-bishops summer housing. A suggestive and dated atmosphere is the companion of a brilliant and stimulating journey back in time, the direction is by Alessandro Arici of the company La Pastire. Written by Beatrice Calamari APT of Cavalese 27