Indian Journal of Fibre & Textile Research Vol. 34, June 2009, pp. 122-128
Comfort properties of suiting fabrics
R K Nayak
, S K Punj & K N Chatterjee
The Technological Institute of Textile & Sciences, Bhiwani 127 021, India and
B K Behera
Department of Textile Technology, Indian Institute of Technology, New Delhi 110 016, India
Received 18 June 2008; revised received and accepted 7 September 2008
The effects of polyester content, pick density and weave on the thermal comfort and tactile properties of polyester/viscose blended yarn fabrics have been studied by measuring the low- stress mechanical properties on Kawabata evaluation system. The thermal comfort has been studied by measuring the air permeability, thermal insulation and moisture vapour transfer properties of fabrics. The tactile properties have been studied by measuring the fabric mechanical and surface properties, such as tensile, shear, bending, compression, surface roughness, surface friction and handle. The fabrics with higher polyester content give higher total hand value and higher thermal insulation, but lower air permeability and lower moisture vapour transfer. The fabrics with higher polyester content also show lower extensibility; the extensibility in warp direction is higher than in weft direction and twill woven fabrics give higher extensibility than the plain woven fabrics.
Air permeability, Fabric comfort, Fabric handle, Low-stress mechanical properties, Moisture vapour transfer, Thermal insulation
Clothing comfort is an extremely complex phenomenon and has drawn the attention of many textile research workers. It can be classified into three groups, namely psychological, tactile and thermal comfort
. Psychological comfort is mainly related to the garment style, proper fit, fashion and suitability for the occasion and shows no relationship with the fabric properties. Tactile comfort is the feel of the fabric when it is touched and it is directly related to fabric handle. The handle of a fabric is influenced by its mechanical and surface properties. The ease of body motion and the level of load generated in fabric during body movement are obviously related to the fabric handle properties, and therefore a study of clothing tactile comfort must take into account the fabric low-stress mechanical properties. It is concerned with the subjective judgment of roughness, smoothness, harshness, pliability, thickness, etc. Many researchers have carried out extensive work on fabric handle properties
. Thermal comfort is the factor governed by the movement of heat, moisture and air through the fabric. The maintenance of thermal balance is probably the most important attribute of clothing and has drawn the attention of many textile research workers
. The main problem associated for thermal comfort is the incompatibility between the requirement of heat conservation during low metabolic activity and heat dissipation at high energy level. There are numerous factors regarding conditions of thermal comfort, such as age, sex, adaptation, season and heat-flow conditions as well as physical conditions existing next to the skin surface. Fabric low-stress mechanical properties are most important from tactile comfort standpoint. In this study, Kawabata evaluation system for fabrics (KES-FB) has been used to measure the low-stress properties because of its accuracy and high degree of sensitivity. Also the effects of polyester content, weave and pick density on comfort properties of polyester/viscose blended suiting fabric is studied.
2 Materials and Methods
Twelve plain and twill woven suiting samples (six samples of each) with fixed end density and three different pick densities were used for study. The 50:50 and 30:70 polyester/viscose (P/V) blended suiting fabrics were prepared in the CIMCO sample loom.
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