140145150155160165170−0.2−0.100.10.2
ζ
[ m ]
t [s]
measuredlinear calculation
Fig. 2
: Transient wave packet at
x
= 85
.
03 m: Com-parison of registration with calculated data (lineartransformation from
x
= 8
.
82 m — see Fig. 1) provesthat linear wave theory gives inaccurate results.the theory adequate to the investigated case. Herethe following equations have to be solved to calculatethe
k
ij
(see e. g. Kinsman (1965), Skjelbreia (1959)):1. deep water
d/L
0
≥
0
.
5:
ω
2
j
=
gk
ij
(1 + (
k
ij
a
i
)
2
) (8)(Stokes III) — solved by Cardan formulae2. intermediate water depth 0
.
04
< d/L
0
<
0
.
5:
ω
2
j
=
gk
ij
tanh(
k
ij
d
)(1+(
k
ij
a
i
)
2
cosh(4
k
ij
d
) + 88sinh
4
(
k
ij
d
))(9)(Stokes III) — solved by fix point iteration3. shallow water
d/L
0
≤
0
.
04:
ω
2
j
=
gk
ij
tanh(
k
ij
d
) (10)(linear wave theory)Our test case is a transient wave packet measured atthe Hamburg Ship Model Basin with a water depthof
d
= 5
.
6 m. Thus deep water limit frequency is
ω
= 2
.
34 rad/s, the shallow water limit frequency
ω
= 0
.
44 rad/s.
k
ij
is subject to the temporary envelope
a
i
=
a
(
t
i
) =
H
(
ζ
i
). Thus the required Hilbert transform for theparticular
x
l
is calculated at each time step
t
i
since itrepresents the instantaneous wave height at a particu-lar point in time and space. It also considers the factthat the wave height increases on the way throughthe tank and non-linearities gain more and more in-fluence. Fig. 3 gives an impression of the iteration of the
k
ij
.In accordance with Stokes III wave theory the corre-sponding wave components at
x
l
are:
ζ
l,
1
(
t
i
) =
n/
2
j
=0
A
j
cos(
ω
j
t
i
+
C
ij
)
,
(11)
ζ
l,
2
(
t
i
) =
n/
2
j
=0
12
a
i
A
j
cos(2
ω
j
t
i
+ 2
C
ij
)
,
(12)
024681012051015
ω
j
[rad/s]
k
i j
[ r a d / m ]
i = 1i = 35i = 36i = 37i = 38i = 39i = 40
Fig. 3
: Iteration of wave numbers
k
ij
(
ω
j
,a
(
t
i
)) asfunction of the instantaneous wave envelope
a
at timestep
t
i
. Propagation velocity
c
ij
=
ω
j
/k
ij
increaseswith ”wave amplitude”
a
i
(see Eqs. 8-10).
ζ
l,
3
(
t
i
) =
n/
2
j
=0
38
a
2
i
A
j
cos(3
ω
j
t
i
+ 3
C
ij
)
.
(13)After summation of these components,
ζ
l
=
3
k
=1
ζ
lk
,
the preliminary instantaneous wave train at the posi-tion
x
l
is given. Note that the phase velocity dependsnot only on frequency but also on wave elevationwhich is represented by the instantaneous envelopeand its linear amplitude distribution. The correctshape is also composed of higher order components(bounded waves — Eq. 12 and 13).The calculation of
C
ij
, Eq. 7-13, is repeated twiceto average
k
ij
from the first and second step. The(
x
)
l
are chosen such that they decrease with in-creasing non-linearity. In our example the iterationis done with 2
×
105 steps in space and 1024 steps intime. Fig. 4 presents some iteration steps. The resultof the calculation procedure is shown in Fig. 5 andcompared to the measured wave train. Agreementwith the measured time series is good. Compared toFig. 2 the higher frequency terms show the adequatepropagation speed and a pronounced non-linear shapewith steep crests and flat troughs.
Wave generation for model tests
For model tests defined wave trains are generated in amodel tank - preferable as deterministic wave groupsat defined target locations which allows to correlatewave excitation to structural response. The wave gen-eration process can be divided into four steps:
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