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Technology of Man-made Fibres

Contact hour/week: 3-0Introductionhistory of man-made fibresclassification of man-made fibrespresent trends of man-made fibre industryManufacture of Man-made Fibrestypes (cotton, wool or carpet) and forms (filament, tow or staple) of man-made fibresproduction outline (spinning, drawing, spin finish, intermingling, texturization, heat

setting,drying, cutting)spinning principles (melt, dry, wet), additivesvarious texturization processes, draw-texturizationspin finishes (objects, requirements, components)tow-to-top conversionbi-/multi-component spinningCharacteristics of Man-made Fibresphysical (fineness, length, strength, shrinkage)structural (cross-section, crimp, surface area)chemical, thermal, electrical, optical, weatherRegenerated Fibresviscose (definition, chemical structure, fibre manufacture, properties, end use)cupro (definition, properties, end use)modal (definition, fibre manufacture, properties, end use)lyocell (definition, fibre manufacture, properties, end use)other regenerated fibres (definition, chemical structure, properties, end use)Ester-cellulose FibresAcetate/Triacetate (definition, chemical structure, fibre manufacture, properties, end use)Synthetic Fibrespolyamides (definition, chemical structure, fibre manufacture, properties, end use)polyesters (definition, chemical structure, fibre manufacture, properties, end use)polyacrylonitriles (definition, chemical structure, fibre manufacture, properties, end use)polyolefines (definition, chemical structure, fibre manufacture, properties, end use)elastomerics (definition, chemical structure, fibre manufacture, properties, end use)other synthetic fibres e.g. carbon, glass, PVA, PVC, PBI, polycarbonate, novoloid (definition,chemical structure, properties, end use)New Generation Fibresintroductionhigh-tech fibres (high-performance, high-function, high-sense, microfibre)application of new fibres in apparel and technical textiles

References:

Textiles: Fiber to Fabric, Sixth Edition, 1983 by BP Corbman; McGrahill, USA2.

Textile Science, Second Edition, 1983 by EPG Gohl and LD Vilensky; Longman, UK3.

Handbook of Textile Fibres, Vol II, Fifth Edition, 1984 by JG Cook; Woodhead, UK4.

Polyester: 50 Years of Achievement, 1992 by The Textile Institute, UK5.

Advanced Fibre Spinning Technology, 1994 by T. Nakajima; Woodhead, UK6.

New Fibers, Second Edition, 1997 by T Hongu and GO Phillips; Woodhead, UK

FIRST LECTURE

Definition

A fibre or

staple

fibre is a substance which is usually at least 100 times longer than its diameter. Usuallyfibres are several thousand times longer than they are thick. Most apparel fibres are about 15 to 150 mmlong and 10 to 50 µm (µm = 0.001 mm) thick but the length of a

filament

fibre may be several kilometers.Staples offered opportunity to blend with natural fibres and ensures a greater economy inmanufacturing (machines are 10 times more efficient).Fibres that are not found in nature in fibre form are called

man-made

fibre. The fibre forming substanceshave to be manufactured by chemical method instead of growing them in fields. Because of this, man-made fibres are also called

chemical

manufactured

fibre. The fibre forming substances are usuallymade from wood pulp, cotton linters, petrochemicals or natural gas.

History

1664

English physicist

Robert Hooke

suggested the possibility of extruding

artificial silk

by amechanical imitation of the silkworm.

1855

A patent was issued to French scientist

Georges Audemars

for the manufacture of

nitrocellulose

(gun cotton). Extreme flammability made them unacceptable for textile use.

1884

Count Hilaire de Chardonnet

in France produced

regenerated cellulose

(de-nitrated) fibre fromnitrocellulose at the same time as

Sir Joseph Wilson Swan

in Britain.

1891

Manufacture of the first commercially produced man-made fibre known as

Chardonnet Silk

began.

Viscose Rayon

was discovered by

CF Cross

and

EJ Bevan

1905

First commercial production of

Viscose Rayon

by Courtaulds.

1921

First commercial production of

Acetate

(Celanese

) by British Celanese.

1938

First Synthetic fibre

Nylon

was discovered by

WH Carothers

at Du Pont. He also discovered

neoprene synthetic rubber

and

aliphatic polyester

. Commercial production started in 1939.

1941

Polyester

was discovered by

JT Dickson

and

JR Whinfield

at Calico Printers Association, UK.

1950

Commercial production of

Acrylic

(Orlon

) by Du Pont.

1953

Commercial production of

Polyester

by ICI (Terylene

) in UK and Du Pont (Dacron

) in USA.

1959

Commercial production of

Spandex

(Lycra

) by Du Pont.

1963

Commercial production of

Aramid

(Nomex

) by Du Pont.

1981

Genesis

by Courtaulds started, leading to the discovery of

Lyocell

(Tencel

1992

Full commercial production of

Lyocell

(Tencel

) by Courtaulds.

1998

Commercial production of

PBO

(poly-

para

-phenylene bisoxazole) by Toyobo (Japan).

SECOND LECTURE

Classification of Man-made Fibres

Man-made fibres are basically divided into two major groups based on the origin of the fibre-formingsubstance i.e. natural or synthetic. Another group includes fibres such as Metal (Aluminum/Steel),Carbon and Glass. A detailed classification is given below:

Vegetable Origin

Elastomerics Metallic

Elastane/Spandex Aluminum

Cellulosic fibres

Elastodiene Steel

Viscose, CuproModal, Lyocell

Polyolefines

CarbonPolyethylene

Ester-cellulose fibres

Polypropylene GlassAcetate, Triacetate PTFE

Alginate

NovoloidCa-alginate (FR, 2371

Rubber Polyacrylonitrile

Acrylic

Animal Origin

Modacrylic

Casein

Polyamides

NylonAramid (26 gpd, 371

C)PolyesterPolybenzimidazole (PBI)(HT, FR, 560

C , space shuttle Columbia)

Polychloro

Polyvinyl chloride (PVC)Polyvinylidine chloride

Man-made Fibre Industry

Current world production of textile fibres is about 60 million tons (2003) and about 60% of them areman-made fibres. Among all man-made fibres, Polyester has the highest share (19 million tons in 2000;57% filament, 43% staple; 75% of production from developing countries; 34 million tons by 2010) and itsshare is increasing while the share of Nylon (17.5%, 3.9 million tons in 1995; 16% staple, 84% filamentincluding BCF; 5 million tons by 2000) is steady. The share of Acrylic (10.8%, 2.4 million tons in 1995) isslowly decreasing and the share of cellulosics (11.2%, 2.5 million tons in 1995) has started to increaseafter a few years of minus growth due to environmental problems. Other fibres of importance includePolypropylene (6.7%, 1.5 million tons in 1995; 4 million tons by 2000), Lyocell (18 thousand tons in 1993;0.3 million tons by 2005) and Elastane (0.1 million tons by 2000). Geographically, USA remains thesingle largest producer (19% in 1995) while the production share of Western Europe and Japan are 15%and 8% respectively. The growth centre for man-made fiber industry is Asia and the combinedproduction of Taiwan, China, South Korea and India accounts for 33% of world production in 1995.

Man-made Fibres

Natural PolymerSynthetic Polymer Others