1983.31.

1a-b Dress, 1860-1863 Green, white, and black striped silk, white china silk, black silk velvet, brown cotton twill, brown and tan polished cotton Scale: 1 box = 1" The dart is taken in the back lining (cotton twill), and the center back silk piece placed over it. The side back silk pieces are then lapped over the edges and backstitched down to the waist, allowing the peplum to hang free. This peplum has a self-fabric lining, and the side pieces are tacked to the center one at the marks with black silk thread. The rest of the bodice is flatlined as usual, with the seams backstitched and the allowances overcast, and the side seams are boned to the mark. The neckline is fully piped with a narrow cord under silk, and the lower edge of the bodice is piped from the front to the front edge of the peplum. The shank buttons, sewn on with a single length of silk, are made with a center of black velvet surrounded by green taffeta. The sleeve - made of two identical pieces - is flatlined with a tan polished cotton, and faced with a very thin white china silk. The fringe, 2.5" long, is applied on the outside of the sleeve. The armscye is piped, and the sleeve is eased slightly to fit into it. The back seam of the sleeve nearly meets the shoulder seam. The skirt is also flatlined with the same polished cotton, faced at the bottom edge to the dashed line with a darker brown polished cotton; the hem is finished on the reverse with a dark green wool tape that overhangs the edge ". Excess fabric at the top edge is turned down, not cut off. The back panels are gauged to 2.25" on each side of center back, and the whole skirt is whipped to the lower edge of the waistband (which is silk on the outside and cotton inside). The opening is 14" long, in the seam on the left side of the center front panel. No hooks or eyes remain on the waistband.