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Divinediversity

Cebu is the only city in Asia where Christianity dominates butother religions also make their presence felt, including Taoism,Buddhism, Islam and Judaism.

TEXT

CARMEN JENNER

Cebu

City break

GOING PLACES

NOVEMBER 2009

097

(Facing page) The Taoisttemple; (this page, fromtop) Shangri-la’s MactanIsland Resort; colourfulJeepneys, an Americanlegacy, is an importantmode of transport here

City break

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agellan’s Crosslooms above, alarger than lierelic to Christianityon Cebu, one othe 7,000 islandsin the Philippines.There are Catholicicons everywhere: A crucix hanging o the rear-view mirrorin a taxi, a painting o

The Last Supper

displayed in a cae, ora rosary pressed between ngers clutching a steering wheelwhile negotiating the mad trac. All over the city there arechurches and the countryside is dotted with tiny chapels. Thecity morgue is one o the most opulent buildings in towninspiring amilies to spend millions o pesos on cons. Just ascity churches are oten located in the centre o town, religionplays a pivotal role in the Filipino’s lie, infuencing holidays,traditions, art, architecture, and dining.Cebu lies at the centre o the Visayas archipalego and asit is protected rom typhoons, the island became a popularChinese trading port. In act, that’s where the name Cebu mayhave originated rom –

sibu

means barter. The other theoryis that the name came rom

sebu

sibu

meaning animalat, and given the Philippine’s anity with ood this is quitelikely also true. Cebu is also amous or dried mangoes, IT callcentres, urniture, electronics, toys and Timex watches. Not tomention the Jeepney, compliments o the the Americans wholet behind their Jeeps ater World War II, which were thenconverted into colourul vehicles that to this day are used aspublic transport.

Ferdinand Magellan let behindanother tribute to Christianity: Arepresentative o the child Jesuscalled Santo Nino, meaning childsaint, making the oldest saint in thePhilippines a toddler. The

BasilicaMinore del Sto Nino

(OsmenaBoulevard, Downtown Area

Opens

Daily; entry is ree) was built to housethe statue in 1565 and hundreds odevotees pray to Santo Nino’s imagedaily. The current basilica has beenrebuilt several times between 1566and 1739 and constant restorationhas ensured the stately basilicaretains its Filipino culture blendedwith Muslim, Romanesque andNeoclassical eatures. Although aplace o worship, the atmosphereis vibrant both inside and out, where ollowers light candlesamong peddlars selling balloons, candles and good will.It is believed the violent death o Magellan instigated thebuilding o

Fort San Pedro

(Plaza Independencia, Pier Area

Opens

Daily

Admission

Less than USD1) in 1565, theoldest bastion in the country. It served a number o purposesthroughout history including a prison camp during theJapanese occupation, where much o it was destroyed.The ort is made rom coral and is bound togetherwith egg whites; the excess o egg yolks were thenused to make biscuits. From battle to biscuits, todayit belies its treacherous past as the crumbling ruinsunction as a museum and the pretty grounds are ahaven rom the madness beyond the walls.

Religious diversity

Cebu has a strong Chinese community let over rom centuriesago including a Taoist temple that’s open to the public andollows the teachings o the ancient Chinese philosopher,Lao Tze. Located in the suburb o Beverley Hills, the hillside isdotted with mansions and a shanty town known as BeverlyHell, keeping in the true orm o the Yin Yang philosophy.

The Marcelo FernanBridge, whichconnects Cebu withMactan; (facingpage) red candles litin honour of SantoNino; a devoteedressed in costumefor the Celebrationof Santo Nino

Christianity came calling

Several centuries earlier, the Spanish arrived to explore thespice islands, led by Ferdinand Magellan. A revered characterin Filipino history, a mass was once held in his honour anda cross ashioned rom a local wood was planted in 1521,claiming the land in the name o Christ, thus convertinghundreds o believers rom paganism to Catholicism. Named

Magellan’s Cross

(Magallanes Street, across rom theBasilica Minore del Sto Nino

Opens

Daily; entry is ree), itremains on its original site and is now housed in an octagankiosk, encased in a dark wood to protect it rom devoteeschipping pieces o it, which they believe has great powers.These belies are evident even today as outside the octagon,women don yellow costumes while waving candles. Oneo them singles me out and while chanting and dancingbeore me, she petitions prayers to Saint Nino. Ater theperormance, we make a donation and she slides into a tranceto deliver the prayer to the Almighty. Her haunting look leavesme wondering what she prayed or long ater the event.Despite his popularity, Magellan was met with much publicunrest rom the island o Mactan, just a ew kilometresrom Cebu, when chietan Lapu-Lapu challenged the unityo Magellan’s ollowing. A monument to Magellan built in1866 now stands on Mactan Island, near the statue o hisconqueror Lapu-Lapu and surrounded by a chain o reshseaood restaurants serving traditional

sutukil

, a term derivedrom three words:

Sugba

(su),

tuwa

(tu),

kilaw

(kil) meaning tobroil, boil and marinade . Nearby are hotel chains welcomingoreigners and their diversity – a hedonistic east o ood,tourism and gore.

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