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EASTERN SIERRA NEVADA: Car Campin', Day Hikin', Hot Tubbin', Moonlightin' andMind-Meldin' with the Boys in the Range of LightAlong the 557-mile corridor of asphalt stretching from southern California to the Oregon border, the scenic portion of Highway 395 paralleling the Eastern Sierra cordillera isabout as close as you can get (within a six hour drive) to Heaven’s Back Forty. This is a magical and primordial land of infinite geographical variation and dynamic geological features -- basin and plain, highdesert plateau, plush valleys, inspiring mountain vistas.The adventure junkie / thrill seeker will discover a plethora of hiking and backpackingdestinations and nature loving aesthetes will encounter one picture perfect postcard panorama view after another. In the Eastern Sierra Nevada, you can scale Mt. Whitney, at14,505 ft. ranking as the highest peak in the continental US. (Not far away is the lowest point, Badwater, in Death Valley, at -282 ft.) You can hike endless miles on the JohnMuir or Pacific Crest trail systems - or thousands of spurs - to encounter solitude amidsttowering, majestic snow-capped peaks and soaring cliffs. Thousands of sparkling lakes,the vast majority of which you’ll never explore, dot the high basin country, along withsprawling flower garden meadows, most of which you'll only be able to appreciate incoffeetable books or wall calendars. Gorgeous streams brim with trout; hot springsabound; ancient groves of bristlecone pine await exploration; historic attractions beckon;and breathtaking scenery surrounds every which way you turn. Bishop, the largest city at just under 4,000 residents, ranks right up there with Aspen, Santa Fe, or Boulder as a top-
 
flight place to live (West of the Rockies) for its gateway access to incredible outdoor adventure and recreation, including rock climbing, hang gliding, hiking, horse packing,canoeing and kayaking, trout fishing, you name it, not to mention the gentler outdoor artssuch as nature photography, en plein air painting, and bird watching. Some might findserenity and contentment just sitting on boulder doing nothing but gazing out at a sunriseor sunset. Unlike the approach heading east from the Bay Area, where the agriculturally stinky SanJoaquin and Sacramento Valleys gradually give rise to undulating Gold Rush foothillcountry, and eventually to the mountains of the Western Sierra, the massive escarpmenton the eastern side abruptly rises out of the plateau to create a mountainous spine like agargantuan Stegosaurus on the horizon, an in-your-face presence of God's handiwork overwhelming the senses and dwarfing perceptions. These jagged peaks and scaly ridgesand sawtoothed aretes constantly change their mien, appearing at times slate grey, stark and brooding, while other times magically reflective in famous alpenglow hues, and inearly mornings, they are especially aglow with pallid golden sunlight, whilst later in theday, cobalt blue skies contrast with the white tipped crests of the Range of Light. Hiddenaway in the deepest recesses and nooks and crannies are wilderness paradises of untouched lakes, pristine streams, thundering waterfalls, flowery meadows, wastelands of rock and stone - a world unto its own, where humans do not and cannot dwell, butnonetheless come in droves, and like “hooved locusts” we upset delicate natural balancesand impact sensitive ecologies. Quota restrictions are necessary in the most traveledareas; adhering to wilderness etiquette is de rigueur; and careful preparation and cautionis an absolute must, because the mountains do not care if you live or die.On a recent five-night, four-day trip, we have to pick and choose. I tell the boys early on,we can’t see and do it all. There will be no visit to the Bristlecone Pine Forest in theWhite Mountains, where Methuselah and other ancient trees sprouted before the Pyramidof Cheops was built. The Alabama Hills and a taste of the trail up to the summit of Mt.Whitney will have to wait, as will the nearby WW II era Japanese internment camp of Manzanar, now a National Historic Site. Mammoth Lakes area and Devil's Postpile National Monument, so near, are not on the agenda, alas. And the intriguing ghost townof Bodie might never be seen, for the former rough and tumble outlaw mining town is onthe chopping block of the state's parks slated to be shut down.Despite missing these iconic destinations, including the high desert towns of Lone Pine,Big Pine, Bishop, and Independence, we still manage to pack in a lot of gamboling funduring our short visit in the Bridgeport area. We end up staging daily forays out of animpromptu bivouac along the East Walker River, always beginning and ending the longdays with healing soaks in the hot mineral springs of Travertine. We spend some time atever-fascinating Mono Lake, and take thrashing hikes into the back country of LittleLakes Valley in the John Muir Wilderness, and Green and Tamarack Lakes in the Hoover Wilderness, each hike more difficult than the next until we rack up about 25 miles andover 11,000 ft. of elevation gain and loss. Not bad for three hobbled over-the-hillweekend warriors!
 
Who, you might be wondering by now, is this collective WE? And what is it with these boys' trips you’ve been reading about? Is this some kind of men’s therapy group (can’timagine!), a bonding thing (maybe!), or just three good ol’ boys escaping the daily pressures of our professional and familial lives (now you’re talkin’!), seeking unfetteredrespite from all earthly cares, concerns and worries (hell yeah!), a chance to retreat to beautiful nature for a few days away from the wimmin-folk and kids (of course!) in order to seek out frivolous experiences, hedonistic escapades, and quasi-adventurous exploits(what else!)? No doubt about it, we three are the Walter Mittys of extreme outdoor action- truly adept at pursing the mild-mannered but “once more with feeling, boys” outdoor adventure. This trip to the Eastern Sierra happens to celebrate the occasion of our fifthget-together over about as many years – past bonding / therapy outings (wait a sec!)include a drenched weekend at Goldmyer Hot Springs outside Seattle in the Middle Fork Snoqualmie River in the Cascade foothills; a rambunctious canoe campout on theColorado River below Hoover Dam; redrock Southwest ramblings in and around Moab,Utah; and, last year, more painted desert immersion in Zion, Pariah, and Nevada. (Readall about it!) And now, here we are, in the big Range of Light, experiencing another memorable time together, seeking spiritual communion with - as Robinson Jeffers put it -“the astonishing beauty of things—earth, stone and water, beast, man and woman, sun,moon and stars.” And now (drum roll!) introducing the dramatis personae of the boys' trips: there's me,your guide and avatar, Tom "Gambolin' Man" McGuire, about whom you know as muchas you can glean from 55 prior trip reports and whatever other Googled dirt you can digup; along with the inimitable duo of Mike "Brock Stoker" Elsbury and Mark "thePerfesser" Bix, both heretofore unacknowledged by name. Since our trips have passedinto the realm of legendary / historic, it‘s high time to shed light on these shadowy protagonistas.Mike is an old compadre and fellow Hoosier / I.U. grad, but oddly we didn’t know eachother in Bloomington. We go back 27 years, though, to when we first moved to the BayArea and roomed together on Emerald Street in Oakland in a collective pad with some beautiful amigas. (Aaah, now dem were da daze!) Mike drove a broken down VW Rabbit(hey, it got us to Big Sur more than once!) and worked as a menial grunt at the SF stock exchange. He quickly paid his dues and learned the ropes well enough to become arespected and competent trader. Today, he spends his days in the virtual pit transacting,turning tricks, and trying to earn an honest buck in the arcane world of options and black swans, so he can call it quits like many of his less risk averse and luckier brethren who hitit big and retired to a life of luxury. For now, though, he's a wily survivor, a lone wolf,and has managed, by dint of hard work, superior wit and equanimity under fire, to hangon in an old school way (Mike’s about as old school as you can get in many ways).Captain of his own destiny, master of his fate, he is his own man and not punchin'anyone's time clock but his own. Mike's a smart, generous and devoted friend, a monster cyclist, bon vivant, lover of the outdoors, connoisseur of wine and mulberry family products, and just an all-around fine friend and person with a youthful attitude who loveslife and delights in conjuring up all manner of impossible agendas and wet dreamitineraries to titillate the imagination and rouse the leaden soul into action - dreaming
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