•Blowtorch and heatproof cloth•Electric drill with hammer action, plus wood and masonry bits•Electric jigsaw or hand saw•Mastic frame gun•Club hammer •Junior hacksaw•2 x adjustable wrenches, 200mm and 255mm•Adjustable basin spanner •Pozidrive Nos 1 and 2 screwdrivers•Plain slot screwdrivers, 6mm, 8mm and 9.5mm•Builder’s trowel•Craft knife•Copper tube cutter •Round file, medium cut•Half round file, medium cut•Frame fixings, 125mm x 8mm•Solder, flux and wire wool•Tiles, adhesive and grout•Fine sand and cement for bedding down andlevelling the shower tray
TOOLSFORPLUMBINGBEFORE YOU START
Please refer toHow-To:Understand How your Water and Heating Systems; Work with Soil and WasteSystems; Work with Copper or Plastic Pipes; Build a Stud Partition Wall; Fix Ceramic Wall Tiles; Replaceor Install an Electric Shower; Install an Extractor Fan
Survey the hot and cold water systems that will feed your shower. Investigate the direction of floor and ceiling joists for fixings in the proposed shower area. You will need to know this in order to run waste pipes and find fixingpoints for the stud wall. Floor joists must not be notched to accept waste pipes. Buy your tray, screens and show-er units. Familiarise yourself with the manufacturer’s instructions. Make sketches of the shower unit with all themeasurements shown in these instructions. Plan the order of work.
WATER AND BUILDING BY-LAWS
The key water by-law concerning showers covers avoiding back-syphonage. Ashower supplied by mains pressurewater must be incapable of any back-syphonage of contaminated water into the mains supply. This could occur if the showerhead (on a flexible hose) became immersed in water and there was a sudden drop in mains pressure.To prevent back-syphonage, you must include a double-check valve in the direct hot and cold water supply pipesleading to the shower unit
Aflexible shower hose must be fitted with a restrictor to prevent it from danglingin the shower tray or bath