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Quality Assurance

9.1 QUALITY POLICY

MADURA GARMENTS EXPORTS LTD. is committed to comply with
requirements and continuosly improve the Quality management system
and supply high quality garments on time to enhance customer
satisfaction through training and involvement of employees.


9.2 QUALITY OBJECTIVES



1. To increase the Production from the existing level every year.

2. Continuous improvement
a) Productivity
b) Waste elimination
c) House keeping


3. To make employees multiskilled through training and development.


4. To maintain and improve Workorder throughput time


5. To reduce seconds percentage



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9.3 Quality checkpoints
Sampling Plan


NOT OK


OK

Quality passed trims and
fabric
Visual inspection passed fabric
according to sampling plan


NOT OK Visually identify the problems
and check for the following
OK points in the laying process





Quality check at the beginning
of the lay




Check trims& fabric as
per sampling
Cad checking against master copy,
marker length & width, proper
scrambled sizes, all parts in
marker, Line balancing?
Laying
Style descriptions, Fabric
code, W.O. no, Design
approval, Fabric one way
or two way?
Re-do
Shade, width-wise lay,
Waviness, Bowing?
Fabric& Trims status
Issue to Cutting
RTS
Re-do
Is W.O .no, size, central line, notches,
straight line, repeat width, Line balancing,
pairing, shade ok
Marker placement, Line
balancing, No. of plies?
Re-do
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Check for the first ply.




NOT OK
OK



NOT OK
Quality check in between lay

OK



After laying
NOT OK



NOT OK Check the following points at the start and end of
cutting process.


Is W.O .no, size, central line, notches,
straight line, repeat width, Line balancing,
pairing, shade ok
Is W.O. no., Centerline, Repeat,
Balancing, St line, one way okay?
Is W.O .no, size, parts, bundle
no, numbering, lay no okay?
Re-do
Re-do
Re-do
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NOT OK
cut parts; check the
OK following points
during bundling.


NOT OK

Quality Check in relay
OK (if check/stripes)







NOT OK Parts inspection check


OK




Quality check during fusing


NOT OK
OK




Quality approved cut
parts



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NOT OK



Collar visual
OK Standard, measurement collar
NOT OK


Left and right front parts.
Visual standard, measurement
NOT OK OK



Assembled shirt,
Measurement,
NOT OK OK visual Standard.





OK
Display of reference shirt with comments & receive
information for checking
Check point 1
Collar inspection
Check point 2
front pairing
Check point3
trimming & inspection
Re-Work
In- line inspection by
Traffic light System
Re-Work
Re-Work
End Line AQL Audit at
AQL 2.5
Re-Work
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NOT OK
Identify first quality
seconds and rejects


NOT OK




OK







R OK
Checkpoint 4 Final
Inspection
Seconds & alterations
Release to
finishing
Trolley wise AQL
audit (2.5)
Folding &
Packing
Folding &
Packing
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E
J AQL NOT OK
C
T
S


OK


ACCEPT



Pre Final Audit/
Finished Stock Audit
(10%, 25% and 50%)
Release to Warehouse
Offer for
final
inspection
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9.4 Quality Procedures
9.4.1 Fabric Inspection Report
No sooner Fabric is in house, The Fabric inspection report, Shrinkage report & 100%
Shade bands should be submitted within 48 hours. Fabric is to be cut only after the
above reports are submitted & only if they are approved for bulk production. Initially
10% of the Fabric is to be inspected on a 4 point system & if the fabric is in doubt,
further 10% should be Inspected. While submitting the Fabric Inspection reports, all
trim inspection reports should be submitted too. If Fabric is cut without been
Inspected, Total responsibility will be on this department as it is a violation of a
critical aspect. The below reports should be submitted to Buyers & the relevant
Merchandiser.

Fabric Inspection. ( Inspection on 4 point system ).
Purpose: To decide acceptance or rejections of fabric roll ( For Wovens )


Activity

Requirement

1. Take the roll.

2. Check the roll as per 4 points system.

3. Give penalty points for defects.

4. Calculate index for each individual roll.

5. Calculate final average index for the
total no. of rolls inspected.

6. Decide acceptance or rejectance of the
fabric

Roll to be chosen at random




Points / 100 sq. yd. =
Total points in roll * 36 * 100
Total length in yards * width in
inches.

Record: Fabric inspection report
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Classification P E N A L T Y P O I N T S
1 point 2 points 3 points 4 points
Faults showing in the warp
direction of fabric. ( Holes
and tears excepted ).
Less than
3inch.
Over 3 inch
but less than
6 inch.
Over 6 inch
but less than
9 inch.
Over 9 inch.
Faults showing in the weft
direction of fabric. (Weave
stripes, weft irregularities,
holes and tears are
excepted).
Less than
3inch.
Over 3 inch
but less than
6 inch.
Over 6 inch
but less than
9 inch.
Over 9 inch.
i). Length of the faults is to be measured in the warp or weft direction and the
direction in which the fault is longest is the fault direction. However when the warp
and weft length are same and when the penalty of the shorter direction is heavier, take
the fault of the direction in which the penalty is heavier.
ii). When the fault in the warp direction is over 1yd, the part which is over 1yd is
deemed as fault of the same kind of others.
iii). When two or more faults overlap, apply only the faults which penalty is the
heaviest.
iv). When there are two or more faults within the length of 1yd and the penalty points
come over 4 points, the points over 4 points are not added.
v). The inspector needs to be at a distance of 3 feet away from the inspection table and
the linear speed of inspection not to be less than 0.1mtrs per second.
Minimum fault sizes are shown on the Sears Fabric defect scale :-
Knots Slubs
A do not count A - do not count
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B- Count as 1 point B - do not count
C- Count as 1 point C- Count as 1 point
D- Count as 1 point D- Count as 1 point
E- Count as 3 points E- Count as 1 point
F- Count as 3 points
G- Count as 3 points
Standards for Passing Fabric:-
Average index for inspected rolls not to exceed 28 points / 100yd.
Maximum index for any roll not to exceed 40 points / 100yd.

9.4.2 100% Shade Bands.
If the style is a wash garment, Before & after wash Blankets should be submitted ( 3
sets each ) covering all rolls and it has to attached in the shade continuity card
(Annexure 12)
A 100% shade band covering all rolls & all colors pertaining to a certain style / Consignment
should be made & approved prior to cutting of bulk Fabric.
Process.
No sooner the Fabric is in house, The Q/A department must ensure they get the
panels representing all rolls within 6 hours from Stores.
Cut 6 from end of each roll. Over lock & join all panels in correct grain line direction
to be in a Blanket form.
If the Style is a non-wash program, Two sets should be prepared.
If the Style consists of a certain wash, Then 4 Blankets should be prepared. 02
Blankets non-washed & 2 Blankets with the exact approved wash of the style.
Once the Shade bands are ready, Dye lot or color segregation has to be done. If the
Shade Band consists of 2-3 different shades, Such shades should be segregated in to
families marked A,B,C Etc. A copy of the Segregation of shades should be handed
over to the Stores, Cutting, Merchandising & Production departments.
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Stores will issue & the cutting / Production will proceed as per the segregated
shades without getting mixed.
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9.4.3 Shrinkage report
A 10% Shrinkage report should be submitted for all styles and the washing shrinkage
has to be performed as per the wash type required for the bulk.

9.4.4 Trim Inspection report
All trims been In house should be inspected ( 10% ) & the reports submitted
accordingly.

Trims Inspection
Purpose: To check defects and to decide Acceptance / Rejectance of trims.

Scope: Interlining, Collar bone, Label, Button, Packing Materials, Swing Ticket, Poly
bag, Product box.

Activity

Requirement
A. Interlining

1. meters of lining to be sent to lab.

a. Bond strength
1.Take 10 * 4 of fabric strip and lining strip.
2.Cut rectangular slit 6*1 in Tissue paper of
8 * 4.
3.Sandwich Tissue paper between interlining
and fabric then fuse.
4.Check Pull strength.

If by varying fusing conditions sufficient
strength is not achieved the lot is rejected.

b. Shrinkage Test.
1. Send two collar to lab every day for
shrinkage test.

c. Visual Inspection
1. Select the roll as per sampling plan.

Reject the lot is not ok.




EPI / PPI and GSM


Note the temperature, pressure and
speed.




Pull strength to be atleast 1 kg /
sq.cm.







Check for uniformity, micro dots,
uniformity of shade.


Record : Interlining Inspection report.
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Activity

Requirement
B. Labels

a. Visual Examination
1.Check lettering , color, edges as per the
Master and Specifications.




b. Color fastness test
1. Take few labels get it stitched on the
white fabric.
2. Wash with soap and wash petrol.

If color bleeds rejects the lots.




No weaving defects.
Shade continuity.
Smooth and straight edges.
Centered labels.





No color bleeding.


Note: Selection Of all trims for the inspection to be as per sampling plan.

Activity

Requirement
C. Buttons
1. Check buttons for shade, chip around
the edge.
2. Get stitched 10 buttons breaks
stitched in machine.
3. If any one button breaks, then check
for 10 more buttons.

If there is breakage reject the lot.

D. Packing Material

1. Check edges, slots and slot spacing.


Uniform in shade, gauge.
No chip.
NO breakage

No breakage.






Even edges for all the trims.
Slots and Slot spacing as per the
specifications.




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Activity

Requirement

E. Swing ticket
1. Inspect visually the lettering.

F. Product Box

1.Check for lettering, hinge, marks and
color.


G. Polycovers

1. Check for lettering, uniformity and
scratches.



H. Collarbones

1.Check for edges and points.

2.Stick few collarbones on fabric to
check for glue.

If gum is insufficient, reject the lot.



No stains and misprints.



No misprints and spread hues




No misprinting and spread hues. Shade
continuity to be maintained.




No cut edges, point to be as per
specification.
Should fix firmly to the fabric.



Record: Trims inspection report.

9.5 Size set
Bulk production cannot be started without the QA Department approving the Size set
for each new style. Once the size set is approved, The Pattern should be checked &
authorized by this department for utilization.

9.6 PP Meeting
A PP meeting should be organized & conducted prior to bulk production including
Buyers Representative, Merchandiser, Production Manager & all sectional heads,
Supervisors & Q/Cs involved with the particular style. No Production is to start
without a PP Meeting & all points to be discussed & documented in the PP meeting
format (Annexure 45). The QA Manager or the Technical Manager should write
down the minutes & file the PP meeting comments in the style file Technical,
Quality, Packing, Washing, Shipping ETC.
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9.7 Pilot Run
Once the Production submits the Pilot run, Bulk production should be approved based
on the performance of this cut. If it is not satisfactory, a new pilot run should be made.
9.8 Test to failure
9.8.1 Purpose
Testing mock up pieces (36) to demonstrate consistency in fabric, threads,
machinery. The test pieces are pulled with a force until they are destroyed
establishing the kilograms at which they are break apart.
Results details- are recorded as = Z factor.
Where there is a consistent result the Z factor will be 4 or above Pass.
Where there is inconsistency the Z factor will be less than 4 Fail.
9.8.2 Importance
These tests and the documentation are our evidence of the control to ensure the
product we make is safe. It also allows us to identify if there is any inconsistency
which we need address to improve the product safety.The TTF results are required to
accompany the master style file and should be discused at the time of hand over
meeting.
9.9 Pull Tests
9.9.1 Purpose
To ensure the application is button, stud, snap can withstand a set kilogram of pulling.
The recommendations are specified by our customer at 7 kg per single pull but as a
safe guard MGEL recommend our procedure is pulled at 8 kg.
9.9.2 Importance
To ensure the application can withstand the desired amount of strain in normal
wearing conditions. 5 Pcs randomly must be monitored closely due to product safety.
9.10 Durability Wash
9.10.1 Purpose
This wash test is carried out in the laboratory to ensure the garments construction is
robust (strong). The laboratory test highlights any change to the following areas:
Seam breakdown, fused components, change to colour appearnace, optical brightner
and fabric handle, effects on accessories, colour fastness, pleat sharpness and any
wadding. The wash is carried out at 10 degrees higher than the recommended label
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wash tempreture. The laboratory also need a garment reference- for the pre-wash
inspection and then the after wash inspection. 3 garments minimum requirement.
9.10.2 Importance
To ensure all our methods, fabric and trim accessories are suitable to the style and will
perform over numerous times of wear. To prevent customer returns and customer
dissatisfaction.
9.11 Quality procedures in cutting department.

Rolls segregated & laid as per shade band separation.
Relaxation of Fabric for Stretch & Knit at least for 12 Hours and fabric
relaxation report maintained (Annexure 47)
Fabric Width.
Checking of Marker lay out.
Control of Layers as per Fabric construction.
Checking of Panels against pattern board after cutting.
Random check of panels for Fabric flaws.
Fusing parameters like temperature, pressure and time are controlled at fusing
machines periodically and recorded in fusing quality report (Annexure 48) to
ensure optimum bond strength.


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9.12 Quality Control
Quality control on the product, Packing & stacking should be maintained at the
highest level.
A full functional traffic light system (Annexure 46) should be maintained at all times.
Statistical process controlling ( SPC ) should be implemented for every line to
minimize rejections. No Garment should be passed with inferior quality &
rectification to be made with immediate effect & documented.

9.13 Traffic Light System.

This System is a very affective approach in curtailing & discontinuing defected panels
& garments with discrepancies from moving in the Line. There are three colors to
identify the progress of the operator & the quality.
Green, Amber & Red bag with the Instructions of Operation descriptions to be
audited.

* Green If this color is flagged by the Line Q/C on top of a machine, It
indicates that the Operation is under control & of good standing & could proceed to
the next operation or machine.
* Amber - If this color is flagged, It high lights that the Operation produced
by the Operator is in a tolerance margin & needs close observation from Superiors.
* Red If the Line Q/C has flagged this color on top of a machine, You
should halt the machine & the operation immediately & rectify same without any
delay & ensure the productivity is not affected. In the same time the Line Q/C must
record Instruction paper what is in color bag & her operation file to follow up & same
Q/C will issue a Pink token to the Supervisor to rectify same & to follow up in three
consecutive instances in the same Operation ( To Ensure 0 defects are maintained in
a particular Operation) & cross check with the Q/A.

The roaming Q/C must continue for each & every machine Incorporating the same
process in the Line ( Not more than 32 machines per line ), Minimum four times a
day.
Each Line Q/A dept should have two In process Audit stations for 100%
components check with the defect statistics (In line Inspection report Annexure 42)
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maintained which could be analyzed hourly on each Operation to rectify prior to a
Assembling Garments.
Each end Line should have a QA Audit station performing 100% Inspection of
Garments prior to moving to the next Process & the Defects to be maintained in the
Defect Analysis Report(Annexure 43).
No inline & end line checkers should have trimmers.

9.14 AQL Audit.
Apart from the 100% Inspection at End Line, The Q/A Dept should Audit the
Merchandise randomly to ensure the Quality standard set by MGEL. Each Auditor
should cover 5 Production lines & every hour as per the given AQL (Appendix 43). If
the Standard is acceptable as per the below stipulated table, The Goods can be
processed for the next Operation. However if the Merchandise is not up to the
required Criteria, Total Qty should be returned back to the Production Line for
immediate rectification & the same Auditor should closely Monitor until the
rectification is complete. You have to strictly adhere to maintain an AQL level of 1.5
during Inline Inspections.

9.15 Random Measurement Audit.
The QA dept should inspect measurements of Garments randomly covering all styles,
Color & Sizes to ensure the Merchandise is meeting the required Specification before
& After wash. (Annexure 4)


9.16 Pre Final Audit
Prior to handing over merchandise for final Audit to Buyers, the Q/C department
should do an interim Inspection & submit copies of the reports to the G/M Production
& marketing, Production Manager & the relevant Merchandiser for each P/O. This is
Mandatory. A count & accuracy report should be submitted as well.

9.17 Outgoing Quality Level
All the external audit reports should be compiled into one final report with the defect
penalty points will expressed as percentage of total defectives found over the total
quantity shipped out for that month. Also a report of total external audits failed over
total external audits faced in that month should also be prepared.(Annexure 50)
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9.18 Reports
All inspection in Production & finishing should be daily documented by using Inline
reports & a copy of these reports should be submitted to the relevant Merchandiser at
least twice a week without fail.

9.19 Samples
The QA Department should submit the following samples, T.O.P Within 3 days of
bulk input as per buyers required size & Shipment samples as per buyers requirement,
one day before final audit. This should be strictly adhered to.
i) It is mandatory that all Line Quality Supervisors & controllers should patrol their
respective lines on a daily basis
prior to starting bulk production in the morning to ensure that the Line is geared to
Produce high quality Apparels.

* The following aspects should be taken in to awareness,
a) Cleanliness of the Floor No Garments, Dust, Stickers, Stains etc to be on
floor.

b) Cleanliness of Machines
1) Well cleaned without any dust.
2) Oil level & Stains on M/C to be checked.
3) Needles to be checked & should be fluff free & not blunt.
4) Any M/C with Red flags on & if, Mechanic to be questioned.

c) Check for Reject Garments No Reject garment is to be brought forward from
the previous day without been rectified. All Reject Garments should be rectified on
the same day & not kept separately inside the line.




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List of Annexure

SL NO DOCUMENT CODE DESCRIPTION
ANNEXURE 1 MGEL-SP01 SAMPLING INDENT
ANNEXURE 2 MGEL-RD01 PILOT LOADING PLAN
ANNEXURE 3 MGEL-RD02 PILOT CUTTING LOG BOOK
ANNEXURE 4 MGEL-RD03 PILOT MEASUREMENT REVIEW SHEET
ANNEXURE 5 MGEL-RD04 PILOT COMMENT SHEET
ANNEXURE 6 MGEL-RD05 AMMENDMENT SHEET
ANNEXURE 7 MGEL-IE01 OPERATION BULLETIN
ANNEXURE 8 MGEL-IE02 LINE LAYOUT
ANNEXURE 9 MGEL-IE03 TECHNICAL LAYOUT
ANNEXURE 10 MGEL-RD06 TECHNICAL STYLE DETAIL SHEET
ANNEXURE 11 MGEL-RD07 RISK ANALYSIS FORMAT
ANNEXURE 12 MGEL-ST01 SHADE CARDS
ANNEXURE 13 MGEL-ST02 DESIGN APPROVAL CARD
ANNEXURE 14 MGEL-QA01 FABRIC SHRINKAGE EVALUATION SHEET
ANNEXURE 15 MGEL-ST03 BIN CARD
ANNEXURE 16 MGEL-QA02 FABRIC INSPECTION BOOK
ANNEXURE 17 MGEL-QA03 4-POINT SYSTEM FOR FABRIC INSPECTION
ANNEXURE 18 MGEL-CT01 CUT PLAN
ANNEXURE 19 MGEL-ST04 TRAVELLING WORK ORDER
ANNEXURE 20 MGEL-CT02 MONTHLY PLAN
ANNEXURE 21 MGEL-CT03 WIP REPORT
ANNEXURE 22 MGEL-CT04 TABLE PLAN
ANNEXURE 23 MGEL-PL01 MONTHLY DELIEVRY TRACKER
ANNEXURE 24 MGEL-PL02 PRODUCTION PLAN SHEET
ANNEXURE 25 MGEL-QA04 PATTERN CHECKING REPORT
ANNEXURE 26 MGEL-QA05 CUTTING VISUAL STANDARDS
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ANNEXURE 27 MGEL-CT05 LAY SPREADING SHEET
ANNEXURE 28 MGEL-CT06 NORMAL TABLE LAYING INSTRUCTION SHEET
ANNEXURE 29 MGEL-CT07 PIN TABLE LAYING INSTRUCTION SHEET
ANNEXURE 30 MGEL-QA06 LAY CHECKING REPORT
ANNEXURE 31 MGEL-CT08 WORK INSTRUCTION FOR STRAIGHT KNIFE CUTTING
ANNEXURE 32 MGEL-CT09 WORK INSTRUCTION FOR AUTO CUTTING
ANNEXURE 33 MGEL-CT10 WORK INSTRUCTION FOR BAND KNIFE CUTTING
ANNEXURE 34 MGEL-CT11 WORK INSTRUCTION FOR CUT COMPONENET STORAGE
ANNEXURE 35 MGEL-CT12 NUMBERING PLAN
ANNEXURE 36 MGEL-CT13 BUNDLE COLOR CODE SHEET
ANNEXURE 37 MGEL-CT14 FUSING WORK INSTRUCTION SHEET
ANNEXURE 38 MGEL-SW01 CUT PART RECIEPT SHEET
ANNEXURE 39 MGEL-SW02 MAINTAINANCE CARD
ANNEXURE 40 MGEL-SW03 NEEDLE POLICY FORMAT
ANNEXURE 41 MGEL-SW04 OPERATION SPECIFICATION
ANNEXURE 42 MGEL-SW05 ENDLINE ALTERATION REPORT
ANNEXURE 43 MGEL-SW06 PRE FINAL AUDIT REPORT
ANNEXURE 44 MGEL-SW07 ORDER CLOSING RECORD
ANNEXURE 45 MGEL-QA07 PP MEETING FORMAT
ANNEXURE 46 MGEL-QA08 TRAFFIC LIGHT SYSTEM
ANNEXURE 47 MGEL-QA09 FABRIC RELAXATION SHEET
ANNEXURE 48 MGEL-QA10 FUSING QUALITY REPORT
ANNEXURE 49 MGEL-QA11 DEFECT ANALYSIS REPORT
ANNEXURE 50 MGEL-QA12 SAMPLING PLAN AQL
ANNEXURE 51 MGEL-QA13 OUTGOING QUALITY LEVEL