Research

&
Development
( R & D Fabrication )
 R & D Fabrication
 Sampling Order Receiving from Merchandiser.

 Selection of Yarn.

 Knitting parameters setting.

 Finishing Parameters (Samples + Production).

 Samples inspection according to four point system.

 Testing of samples

 Checking parameters at every stage (Knitting, dyeing &

finishing)
 Process Flow of R & D

Yarn demand
Sample Order Decision of Parameter
Generation

Dyeing Knitting Yarn Procurement

Finishing Quality & Testing Dispatching

 Sample Order (SO)

Sample order consist of following

 GSM of fabric.

 Fabric Quality.

 Fabric Composition.

 Fabric Testing Standard.

 Customer Remarks related to finishing.

 Selection of Yarn

 Type of yarn

 Normal Yarn, Fancy yarn.

 Normal Yarn

cotton, polyester, acrylic and nylon are normal yarn.

 Fancy yarn
Slub yarn, Heather yarn, Mélange yarn and lycra yarn.
 Count

 Number of hanks per pound is called Count. (1 hank is

equal to 840 yards)

 We say that if 1 pound cotton makes 1 hank, count will be 1.

Or 1 pound cotton makes 2 hank, count will be 2.

For Cotton:
1 Hank = 840 yards
For Wool :
1 Hank =256 yards
 Yarn Count Definitions

 Denier ( Den) = Gram / 9000 m.

 Grex = Gram / 10,000 m.

 Tex = Gram / 1000 m.

 English cotton count (Ne) = 840 yd / 1 lb

or
Ne = 768.1m / 453.59g

 Metric Count (Nm) = Meter / 1g

Count Conversion Formulae

 From metric count (Nm) to others:

Tex = 1000 / Nm
NeB = 0.59 x Nm
Den = 9000 / Nm

 From denier (den) to others:

Nm = 9000 / den
NeB = 5315 / den
Tex = 0.111 x den
Knitting Parameters

Input output

Count
Stitch length Gsm

Dia Width
Guage
Relation Between Count, GSM & SL


Count GSM,

Count GSM
20/1 200
22/1 181

It shows as “count increases, Gsm decreases”

 Stitch length GSM

St.Length Gsm
0.32 200
0.34 188
Relation B/W Dia,Guage & Width

Dia & Gauge œ Width:

Dia Gauge # of Needles Width

30 20 1872 58“

30 24 2268 70”

34 20 2136 66”
Tightness Factor
Tightness factor is a ratio between yarn diameter and its
loop length in the structure. It indicates tightness or
looseness of a fabric. Tightness factor does not have any
units and for practical purpose its value ranges between
1.29 and 1.8. Higher value indicates a tighter fabric & lower
value indicate looser fabric. Mathematically tightness factor
can be expressed as under,

Tightness Factor = √Tex / Stitch length in mm

Where Tex = √ 590.5 / Count / S.L in mm (3.3)

= √ 29.52 /S.L
= 5.43 /S.L
T.F will be = 1.64
Different methods to check GSM

 By GSM cutter:

GSM = gram per square meter (wt / area).

GSM = Wt of cut fabric * 100

 Area of cutter: Л(r²)

 Dia of cutter: 113mm or 11.3cm

Area = 3.14 * ( 11.3 / 2 )²

=100
In case of Non-availability of GSM Cutter
 GSM = Wt / Area

 Suppose a fabric has length 10cm and width 8cm, then

Area will be:

Area of fabric = 10 x 8
= 80 cm² or 0.008 m²

Suppose wt of fabric is 2g Then

GSM = 2 / 0.008 = 250

GSM = Wt / Area

Area = 1/2(base × height)

Area = 1/2(10*8) = 40cm2 or 0.004m2

Suppose Wt of fabric is = 2g Then
GSM will be:
GSM = 2/.004 = 500
Consumption of yarn in a Knitted fabric
Calculation of yarn in 3-End-Fleece with yarn composition

Yarn Count Stitch Length %age

30/1 0.38 0.38/30 = 0.0127

0.0127/0.0367*100=34.60%

20/1 0.28 0.28/20 = 0.014

0.014/0.0367*100=38.147%

16/1 0.16 0.16/16 = 0.01

0.01/0.0367*100=27.2479%

Total yarn three loop(30/1,20/1,16/1) = 0.0367

KNITTING

“ Knitting is a process in which yarn is converted

into loops with the help of needles ”

Types of Knitted Fabric

 Single Knit Fabric

 Double Knit Fabric

Types of Single Knit Fabric

 Single Jersey

 Single PQ Loqast

 Double PQ

 2.Thread Fleece

 3.Thread Fleece
 Types of Double Knit Fabric

 Thermal

 Waffle

 Rib

 Interlock

 Mesh
Box baby terry
Vertical feed stripe jersey
Single Jersey
Tilla Fleece
Single Jersey (Embroided)
Finishing

Definition:

“It is a process, To enhance the aesthetic

properties of a fabric by treating with chemical and
mechanical devices is called finishing”.
 Types of Finishing

 Chemical Finishing:

In chemical finishing, different finishes are applied on a

fabric with the help of chemicals such as, Silicon finish,
Stain Release, Anti-microbial finish, Resin finish etc.
Mechanical Finishing

In mechanical finishing, fabric is treated with mechanical

devices to impart aesthetic look/properties to the fabric

such as, Peaching, Raising, Heat setting and Compacting.

 Finishing Route’s
To apply different finishes on a fabric, different route’s are
followed in finishing .Some of them are as follow:

 Stretch Dry, Compact.

 Slit,Heat set,Dye/white/wash,Slit,stretch dry, Compact.

 Slit,Stretch Dry,Peach,Re-stretch,Semi Dry, Tumble.

 Slit,Stretch dry, compact.

 Quality Control

 Quality:

“Quality is a standard achieved by process to render a defect

free product to the customer”

To control the quality of a fabric, fabric is inspected according to

Four point system.

Four point system introduced by JC-penny for fabric inspection.

Faults Grading

Faults in Cm Faults in Inches Points

0cm to 7.5cm 1 inch to 3 inch 1

7.5cm to 15cm 3 inches to 6 inches 2

15cm to 22.5cm 6 inches to 9 inches 3

Over 22.5cm More than “9”inches in 4

Any direction.
 Points Allowed

 Knitting Quality=Maximum 20 points allowed/100 linear yards

 Finish Fabric: Maximum 40 points allowed/100 linear yard.

 3 minor faults in one linear yard=1 major

(Four points will be given)
How to change Kgs into Yards
For Tubular:
Yards = Weight (Kgs)*43055.20
Gsm*Width*2

For Open Width:

Yards= Weight(Kgs)*43055.20
Gsm*Width

Points Allowed for Tubular=Total yards*0.2 or

Total yards/5

Points Allowed for Open Width:

=Total yards*0.4 or Total yards/2.5
 Testing
 After finishing, fabric is tested to ensure the quality of a
fabric. Following tests are performed on a fabric according
to the requirement of customer.

 Shrinkage test

 Torquing

 Colour Fastness to Light, Water, Washing & Perspiration.

 Bursting Strength

 Pilling Test

 Flammability
 Dispatching

 After ensure the quality & testing of a fabric, fabric is

dispatched to Apparel Division.
Presented by:

Abdul Rouf
Deputy Manager
Research & Development