In order to avoid such complaints and to ensure
problem-free production, the following sewing
parameters must be taken into consideration:
When seams are created on elastic fabric, it is very important that they have sufficient longitudinal elasticity for the strain caused by being worn. Under strain, the seams must not \u201erestrain\u201c the elasticity of the fabric. Rather, they must \u201efollow\u201c the movements.
The potential thread storage is mostly influenced by the selected stitch type, the stitch density in use and the thread tension. Details on these essential sewing parameters and the use of appropriate sewing thread are presented below.
or the thickness of the fabric, also influence the thread storage. For example, the seam elasticity is higher for thick fabric and for fabric with many layers. However, in practice it is often not possible to change these
popular and is well liked by customers. These garments are pleasant and comfortable to wear, allow movement, and look casual but elegant. For these reasons, elastic fabric garments are unlikely to be merely a passing fad.
This was reason enough for Amann to take up this
topic, and in particular to deal with the technical
demands when processing elastic fabric.
Elastic fabrics are those fabrics with stretchable threads (such as Dorlastan\u00ae, Lycra\u00ae) worked invisibly in warp and/or weft direction. These special characteristics are provided for by an approximate 2-5% part of the elastane threads. These new fabric qualities are either monoelastic (extensible in warp or weft direction) or bielastic (extensible in warp and weft directions). The elasticity of the available elastic fabrics available on the market at present ranges from approximately 20% for fashion wear to around 30- 50 % for functional
clothing. These fabrics find a variety of uses ranging from traditional areas such as sportswear and beach- wear, to sporty skipants and regular outer garments for ladies, gents and boys such as blouses, shirts or blazers.
The decisive factor when processing elastic fabric is the correct setting of the sewing parameters. Production conditions are often set for non-elastic material, and not changed when processing elastic fabric. Experience shows that this often leads to complaints about the
The thread storage is also highly influenced by the
stitch density. More stitches per centimeter of seam
result in having more thread in the seam.
A simple rule of thumb applies:
is the material to be processed, in conjunction with
the desired seam elasticity value. A standard value is
a stitch density of 5 stitches/cm, depending on the
selected stitch type.
The adjacent diagram shows the in-fluence of the
number of stitches per centimeter on the elasticity of
Very high stitch densities can cause damage to the
elastane, displace-ment pucker and wavy seams. The
appropriate stitch density is best determined by a
sewing test to guarantee both flawless appearance of
the seam and sufficient seam elasticity.
It might be necessary to select a different stitch type if the highest possible stitch density is chosen but the seam is not elastic enough.
amount of thread in the seam, independent of the stitch density and the thread tension. Under standard sewing conditions, for example,
tuck seam is an excellent example. It is not often made with a two-needle seaming stitch (stitch type 402), but rather with a lockstitch (stitch type 301) when the
required special machine is not available. However, the lockstitch cannot supply enough thread to make tuck seams sufficiently elastic at parts of the body with much motion, such as the knee area. This remains true even for loose thread tension and high stitch density.
Essential stitch types in the manufacture of knitwear
and thread requirements based on sewing techno-
logical standard parameters (see page 4).
Material: elastane fabric
Sewing thread: SABAC Nr. 120
Stitch type: double chainstitch 401
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