The Expeditions of which the results are narrated in the following pages took their origin from a proposition
made to Government by myself, in conjunction with Lieutenant Lushington,* in the latter part of the year
1836.

At that time a large portion of the western coast and interior of the great Australian continent had remained
unvisited and unknown; whilst the opinions of the celebrated navigators Captains Dampier and King,
connected with other circumstances, led to the inference, or at least the hope, that a great river, or water inlet,
might be found to open out at some point on its western or north-western side; which had then been only
partially surveyed from seaward.

Anxious to solve this interesting geographical problem, we addressed a letter to Lord Glenelg, the Secretary of
State for the Colonies, wherein we offered our services to conduct an exploration from the Swan River to the
northward, having regard to the direction of the coast, so as to intersect any considerable body of water
connecting it with the interior; and, in the event of such being discovered, to extend our examination of it as
far as circumstances might admit.

The offer and suggestions were favourably entertained by Lord Glenelg, and further communications invited;
and, the project having been favoured by the support of the Royal Geographical Society, our services were
finally accepted by the Government.

More mature consideration however led to a material alteration in the first plan; for whilst our principal
object, namely, the search for a great river or interior inlet, remained the same, it was considered, for several
reasons, more advisable that the exploration should commence from the vicinity of Prince Regent's River, on
the north-west coast, and be directed towards the Swan. I shall pass over the various points of detail which
occupied our time and attention until the moment of departure, as they offer no matters of general interest. It
will be sufficient to say that everything suggested as likely to be conducive to the success and utility of the
expedition was most liberally granted and supplied; and, when all was prepared, a letter of instructions dated
the 16th June 1837 was addressed by Lord Glenelg to myself and Lieutenant Lushington conjointly; which
embraced the following points:

3. After due examination of the country about Prince Regent's River we were instructed to take such a course as would lead us in the direction of the great opening behind Dampier's Land. From the moment of our arrival at this point our subsequent proceedings were left more discretionary; but the instructions continued: "You will use the utmost exertions to penetrate from thence to the Swan River; as, by adopting this course, you will proceed in a direction parallel to the unknown coast, and must necessarily cross every large river that flows from the interior towards that side of the continent."

4. That we might have an opportunity, in the event of any unforeseen difficulties occurring, of falling back
upon the vessel conveying the party, she was not to quit the place where she might have been left by it until
such a time had elapsed, from the departure of the expedition for the interior, as should be agreed upon; and,
to ensure the observance of this condition, we were instructed to act by the advice of the local authorities of
the colony where she might be engaged in drawing up the agreement, as well as in procuring guarantees for its
fulfilment.

5. The main objects of the expedition were then specified to be: To gain information as to the real state of
North-Western Australia, its resources, and the course and direction of its rivers and mountain ranges; to
familiarize the natives with the British name and character; to search for and record all information regarding
the natural productions of the country, and all details that might bear upon its capabilities for colonization or
the reverse; and to collect specimens of its natural history.

6. It was directed that strict discipline should be observed, and the regulations by which our intercourse with
the natives was to be governed were laid down; after which the instructions concluded with the following
paragraphs:

No further detail has been given you in these instructions, for, as you have been made aware of the motives which have induced his Majesty's Government to send out the expedition, it is supposed each individual will do his utmost in his situation to carry these objects out, either by obtaining all possible information or by such other means as may be in his power.

Although the instructions regarding the expedition are addressed to you conjointly as conductors of it, it is necessary that the principal authority and direction should be vested in one individual, on whom the chief responsibility would rest.

It is to be understood that Lieutenant Grey, the senior military officer, is considered as commanding the party
and the person by whose orders and instructions all individuals composing the party will be guided and
conform.

All our preparations being completed, there embarked in the Beagle, besides myself and Mr. Lushington, Mr.
Walker, a surgeon and naturalist, and Corporals Coles and Auger, Royal Sappers and Miners, who had
volunteered their services; and we sailed from Plymouth on the 5th July 1837.

The usual incidents of a sea voyage brought us to Santa Cruz in Tenerife, where I landed on Wednesday 19th
July 1837, about 2 o'clock in the afternoon. There was a sort of table d'hote at 3 o'clock at an hotel kept by an
Englishman, at which I dined, and was fortunate in so doing as I met there a German and several English
merchants who were principally engaged in the trade of the country. There was also a gentleman who had
been from his earliest years in the African trade for gums, etc.; and he gave me many interesting particulars of
the wild life the individuals so occupied are compelled to lead. In the afternoon I made a set of magnetic
observations and then walked out to see the aqueduct; which at about three-quarters of a mile to the north-east
of the town approaches it by a passage cut through a mountain. The execution of this work must have been
attended with immense labour, for, although the design is grand and noble, the actual plan upon which it has
been completed was by no means well conceived. The average depth of this cut is at least one hundred and
twenty feet, its length is about one hundred and eighty, whilst its breadth in many parts is not more than four.

Previously to the construction of this aqueduct the town of Santa Cruz was very badly supplied with water, indeed so much so that the inhabitants were, at some periods of the year, compelled to send upwards of three miles for it; but no want of this nature has ever been experienced since its completion. The expenses of its construction as also of keeping it in repair are principally defrayed by a tax upon all wine and spirits actually consumed in the town.

The scenery of the country I walked through was bold and romantic but by no means rich; fig-trees grew wild
about the mountains, and it seemed singular that, whenever I approached one, the peasants on the adjacent
hills shouted out in loud tones. As far as I could understand the guide, this was done to deter us from eating
the fruits now just ripe, and, upon my return to the town and making further enquiries, I found that such was
their custom.

EXCURSION TO ORATAVA.
July 20th.
I started at six o'clock with Mr. Lushington for Oratava, distant about 30 miles from Santa Cruz. We were

The first town we came to was Laguna, which appeared to be of some importance; it is distant about four
miles from Santa Cruz. On this road we passed many camels laden with heavy burdens; a circumstance which
rather surprised me for I had always imagined that, owing to the peculiar formation of its foot, the camel was
only fitted for travelling over sandy ground, whilst the way from Santa Cruz to Laguna is one continued mass
of sharp rocks, utterly unworthy of the name of a road; yet these animals appeared to move over it without the
least inconvenience.

After leaving Laguna the country for some miles bore a very uninteresting appearance; for, although
apparently fertile, it was quite parched up by the extreme heat of the sun; our guides, who were on foot
carrying our carpet bags, kept up with us by running, and, occasionally when tired, catching hold of the
horses' tails to assist themselves along.

We halted for breakfast at Matanzas (or the place of slaughter) so called from a dreadful slaughter of the
Spaniards which was here made by the Guanches, the aborigines of the island. I examined the spot where this
occurred; it is a narrow defile, formed by a precipice on one hand, and perpendicular rocks on the other, and
lies on the only route by which you can pass across the island from east to west; it was therefore well adapted
for the purposes of savage warfare, and the Guanches here made the Spaniards pay dearly for the cruelties