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In Britain’soldest recorded town of Colchester, they’vebeen fishing native oysters since the Romans arrived 2,000years ago. Since that time, the waters of the BlackwaterRiver,partof the Greater Thames Estuary, have been richwith the shelled delicacies that now grace the tables of some of London’s more fashionable restaurants.Such is the history of the fishery that even today the Mayorof Colchester,in keeping with a tradition that dates back tothe 1500s, sails down the river to Mersea in the first week of September to cast the first dredges that officially open theoyster season. This is followed in October by a grand civicOyster Feast wheredignitaries from around the country areinvited. Today it is the soap and sports stars who are aslikely to be invited as the High Sherrifs and councillors inthis moderntown of around 180,000 which include Londoncommuters, retail, manufacturing and tourism workers and,of course, fishermen.The centre of the region’s thriving oyster fishery is situated10 miles from Colchester on the small island of Mersea,separated from the mainland by a small channel. Bothnative and rock (gigas) oysters are cultivated in the shallowcreeks leading from the Blackwater where warm summer seatemperatures and nourishment from the nearby marsh areperfect for the oysters.
The amount of certified sustainable seafoodavailable worldwide continues to increase asmore and more fisheries, driven by consumerand retail demand, obtain the blue tick ofapproval from the Marine Stewardship council.Lesley Smeardon finds out how focusing ongood fishing practices can maintain livelihoods,supportmodern day profits and improveenvironmental quality.
INAWORLD OF OYSTERS
HERITAGE PEARLSHERITAGE PEARLS
IN A WORLD OF OYSTERS
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www.coastnet.org.uk/theedge |December 2009
magazine
The Tollesbury and Mersea Native Oyster fishery itself isfairly small with a catch of around 60 metric tonnes aseason. At one point there would have been around 150boats dredging the Blackwater but today only around 20fishermen are part of the fishery.
The Tollesbury and Mersey native oysterfishery is hoping to make history bybecoming Britain’s (and maybe the world’s)first recognised sustainable oyster fishery.
Says seventh generation oysterman, Richard Haward,Director of the Tollesburyand Mersey Native Oyster FisheryCompany: “My family has been growing oystersin these shallow creeks since 1792 when William Hawardsailed to deliver oysters to London’sBillingsgate Market.Therehave been a lot of changes since then. In my workinglife I’ve seen native oyster stocks decline formany years before recovering in the 1980s when TBT(tributyltin) antifouling was banned. As a company we’vehad to adapt our husbandrymethods to protect against theoyster disease
 Bonamia
and we’ve had to grow the morecommon gigas (rock) oyster which now spawns in the wildin order to make a good living which we can’tdo on native oysters alone.”The fisheryis hoping to make historyonce morebybecoming Britain’s (and maybe the world’s) first recognisedsustainable oyster fishery through certification with theMarine Stewardship Council (MSC). Funding for the processhas been provided byWWFandHSBC,with advice and guidance through the certification process from fisheryexperts within CoastNet.The case for certification is compelling as Giles Bartlett,Fisheries Policy Officer at WWF,points out. “Globally 76%of fish stocks are fished above the Maximum SustainableYield (MSY), which is a shocking statistic. In Europe, whereyou might expect the situation to be better, 88% are fishedpast MSY, of which 30% are outside safe biological limits,perhaps not recoverable. This must change.”
Every year in September,Mersea Island holds itsannual oyster dredgingmatch that sees a wholecommunity brave the coldto participate or simplywatch the spectacle.
KEEPINGTHETRADITION
Richard Haward, whose fisheryis undergoing MSCaccreditation, is a seventhgeneration oysterman whosefamily has over 200 years ofexperience growing oystersalong the Blackwater River.
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Colchester Mayor HenrySpyvee opened thematch in 2009 as hasbeen tradition since the1500s, casting the firstdredges aboard theForeman Smack‘Mermaid’.The matchlasted for two hoursbefore the fleetsailed to Packing Shed island for the weigh-inand an oyster opening competition.
 
www.coastnet.org.uk/theedge |December 2009
magazine
“Through Marine Stewardship Certification (MSC), we canimprove the management of fisheries globally, reducingthe likelihood of fish stock decline and greatly increasingthe chance of recovery. Equally, MSC certification willimprove other environmental impacts of the fisheries,such as the bycatch of seabirds, cetaceans and othermarine wildlife, as well as other fish, which are still far toohigh in many fisheries around the world.”MSC certificationhas long been considered a motivator forsecuring a healthy and resilient fish population whileimproving socio-economic benefits of the fishery. Hawardcertainly recognises the benefits of certification: “MSCaccreditation will give recognition to how we grow ouroysters, which we have always considered to besustainable. It will also help to show that there are oystersother than the more recognised gigas out there. It mayeven enable us to increase prices. These haven't reallychanged in over 15 years.”The process is well on the way with certification hoped tobe achieved by April 2010 but it’s been a slow process andwithout the funding from WWF and the technical helpfrom CoastNet, Haward is certain it would never havehappened. “A small industry like ours could not haveenvisaged funding the process. We were lucky to have hadfunding to undertake the pre-assessment which was ashorthealth check on our fishery,but had to wait sometime before we could find financial help and the expertadvice to complete the process.”Dr Theresa Redding from CoastNet who is providing thetechnical expertise to guide the fishery through thecertification process says it’s hard for fisheries to do thisthemselves with often prohibitive costs. “It’s true that thecosts of certification are too high for many fisheries. Wehave been working with inshore fisheries that tend to bemore closely connected to the local coastal communityand verysmall scale. This means barriers to assessment arehuge: organisational capacity to manage the MSC process,volume of catch and therefore revenue to support thecosts are two.
HOW DO YOU EAT YOURS?
Raw, cooked with lemon, with Tabasco, or not at all, it’s allamatter of personal taste. A native oyster has a muchstronger, more robust flavour where the mineral flavours inaPacific or rock oyster,flavours are more subtle.For the Mersea Oysterman, Richard Haward:
“I prefer my oysters the 'natural way just as they are'. A little lemon'sOK, but to me Tabasco or even shallot vinegar is too much.”
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“We help secure the much needed funding for assessmentand act as the liaison body between the fishery and thecertification process. Our role is to facilitate a smoothassessment process and reduce the burden on the fisheriestoorganise interviews, data, publications and expertiseneeded by the certification body for both the pre-assessment phase (the general health check of the fishery)and the main assessment.The Tollesbury fishery’s sustainability comes through avariety of factors including: size of haul, methods used,and an innate understanding of the need to ensure fishstocks increase or remain stable throughout the seasons tomaintain the futureof the fishery.Looking long termat fisheries in general, Haward iscautiously optimistic. “Attitudes arechanging and manymore fishermen are taking a longer term view but do needto see a financial benefit in changing their ways. What isgood is the change in public perception towardssustainability which could result in a higher value beingput on sustainable practices. This is especially the casesince thereare now so many more sustainably-caughtfish available.”And change there has been. Since 2006, an increasedfocus among seafood buyers including major supermarketchains in Western Europe and the US has led to MSC-certified seafood on shelves. This, coupled with a publicdemand for sustainably-produced products, puts the drivefor sustainable fisheries into the hands of many.
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