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Choose Your Views Some things look better from above. Everything
looks better when you’re breathing hard — including the view pictured here. For proof, fly
to B
­ angkok on Thai Airways and transfer to Ko Samui. From Phetcharat Marina near the is-
land’s golden Big Buddha statue, motor by speedboat about 20 miles west to the 42 protected
islands of Ang Thong National Park. Six Senses Hideaway Samui and many
get here
other Samui resorts also run daily tours. Disembark at Ko Wua Talap (­Sleeping
Cow Island), home to park headquarters and rustic accommodations. The
Ko Samui beach has lovely scenery (picture The Beach film set except with you there), and
there’s no shame in relaxing at sea level. But a moderate 15-minute hike takes you to the lower
viewpoint and a broader perspective. Stop here unless you’re in hiking boots. The hour’s
climb to the summit at almost 1,700 feet, where this image was captured, crosses steep and
abrasive limestone rock faces, rigged with anchored ropes to haul yourself up. Bring lots of
water — it’s Thailand hot — and if possible gloves and a climbing partner. The view from the top
spans the whole park, karst stone formations rising from emerald waters. You’ll be sweating,
panting — and feeling sorry for those who stayed on the beach. sixsenses.com — matthew miller

v i l h e l m s j o s t r o m / g e t t y i m ag e s

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also this month

» Mochi Pounding
Big Island, Dec. 27
At this Hawaiian
festival, take your turn
pounding sticky rice
into mochi (traditional
rice cakes) for good
luck — and good
eats. A hearty plate
lunch follows soon
after your hard work.
gohawaii.com

» Saba Day
Saba, Dec. 4-6
Join the 1,500
residents on this tiny
Caribbean island
in dance contests,
barbecues and a
steel-drum concert at
Fort Bay. It’s a week-
end — not just a day —
when the island shuts
down for celebration.
sabatourism.com

» Christmas Stroll
NANTUCKET, DEC. 4-6
Watch Santa arrive via
a Coast Guard boat,
then parade down

Shell for a Spell Main Street in a horse-

drawn carriage. Fes-
tive storefronts and
on a visit to the gulf of mexico off florida’s west coast, you may not come away
carolers get you in the
with diamonds and emeralds. But if you come at the right time, you will definitely find treasure. spirit of the season.
Beginning in December, Gulf storms decorate Sanibel Island’s 12 miles of beaches and the neigh- nantucketchamber.org
boring island parks with lightning whelks, dainty Scotch bonnets, starfish, clams, banded

c l o c k w i s e f r o m t o p l e f t: l o r i b a r b e ly; i s t o c k p h o t o ( 3 ) ; m i x a / ag e f o t o s t o c k
» Rainforest Week
go now
tulips, apple murex, horse conchs and patterned calico scallops. For optimum results, LORD HOWE ISLAND, DEC. 5-12
head out about an hour and a half before low tide, and then watch for the new or full Hike to the top of 2,870-
Sanibel moon or fierce winds that will be washing seashells ashore from the Gulf. foot Mount Gower on
this Australian island
But the beaches aren’t the only places worth scouring for shells. Find beautifully crafted to see native
antique shell valentines made by Caribbean ladies for sailors to take back to their sweet- plants in bloom.
hearts at the Bailey-Matthews Shell Museum. To see the ancient remnants of a shell Look for the
Giant Heath, an
mound dating back a thousand years when Calusa Indians occupied the area, hike the endemic tree
Shell Mound Trail in the “Ding” Darling Wildlife Refuge. For the shell seeker, island found only on
hopping brings fresh rewards. Join Mike Fuery, a shelling charter captain based on adjoin- the summit. lord-
howe island.info
ing Captiva Island, for a guided tour to Cayo Costa State Park. Spend three hours on the
preserve’s deserted beaches trying to collect the 180 different varieties that Feury says » Battledore Fair
wash up here on any given day. Be it the crevices of a horse conch or maybe a delicate seashell TOKYO, DEC. 17-19
At this festival,
fragment, the treasures awaiting on Sanibel this time of year are endless. — anne gordon buy a battledore,
an ornamental
paddle like the
one pictured here,
� pick up shells that have had a chance to mature. Stiff fines await collectors with live and enjoy good
shells in their booty bags. � book a tour with Capt. Mike Fuery on nearby Cayo Costa luck for the New Year.
so that you know what you’re gathering. Tours for four from $250. mikefuerystours.com Don’t be alarmed —
sellers clap every
� stay at the Island Inn, where guests are summoned to dinner by the blowing of a conch time a paddle is
shell. Rates from $205. islandinnsanibel.com � Learn more at fortmyers-sanibel.com. sold. jnto.go.jp

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walking on air
Who has the best view of the eucalyp-
tus forest in southern ­Tasmania? The
wedge-tailed eagle that soars above
the trees with its six-foot wingspan —
and environmentally minded travelers
who visit the
Tahune AirWalk.
Built by Forestry
­Tasmania in 2001,
this 2,000-foot-
long series of
swinging bridges
and suspended
travel tip walkways offers
Tasmania a bird’s-eye
Grottoes Worth Exploring view of the
prince of wales island is all about the wildlife. so when ancient Tahune Forest Reserve. And because
human bones were found there in 1996, they were upstaged by slightly more of “Green Globe Benchmarked”
­ancient bear remains discovered nearby. Today, wildlife still rules this off- ­practices of limited forest clearing
the-grid settlement, which is 51 miles from ­Ketchikan, and low-energy use, the view is still
Alaska, and u­ nreachable by roads. Sitka black-tailed deer pristine. Start at the timber-and-glass
secret island
and black bears roam in the evergreens of the Tongass ­Visitor Centre — also built with mini-
Prince of Wales National Forest. Fishermen are more interested in the mal impact — where workers from
ocean — particularly the coho, king and sockeye salmon in it — and navigate nearby Geeveston recommend local
the Inside Passage to reach this plum fishing spot. Boatless? Your best bet is wine for sale at the gift shop, then
to charter a floatplane from one of several companies that make the hour-long point you to the best views in the park
hop to the island on a regular basis. Book a room at the Outpost at Point Baker, (most say it’s the cantilever above
a rustic lodge offering guests use of 16-foot open skiffs to explore the rocky the junction of the Huon and Picton
coastline riddled with caves and accordion-like cliffs such as the one pictured rivers). Then ascend. From 100 feet
c l o c k w i s e f r o m t o p l e f t: c a r r c l i f t o n / n g s ; c o u r t e s y ta h u n e a i r wa l k ( 2 ) ; au r o r a

above. You’ll come away with respite and a taste of Alaskan wilderness — and up, spy Bennett’s wallabies and flame
maybe uncover something timeless. princeofwalescoc.org — brooke morton robins in a canopy of wet eucalyptus
trees and thousand-year-old Huon
pines. If you’re lucky, you may spot a
Turn That Dial Gaze upon Kauai’s Bali Hai, and you may be ­tempted wedge-tailed eagle in flight. Or maybe
to belt out South Pacific medleys. When you tire of that ­falsetto, tune just feel like one. Admission is $22.
into public radio station KKCR 91.9 FM. Born after Hurricane Iniki forestrytas.com.au — adrienne egolf
ravaged Hawaii’s oldest island in 1992, KKCR connects the
Kauai community through local music and civic discussions.
listen
As you tour Kauai’s sacred heiaus (temples), listen to volunteer
Kauai DJs playing local artists like slack-key guitarist Cindy Combs
and rocker Brother Noland.
Hear outspoken host Ka‘iulani
wax philosophical in between
tunes on her show, “Songs of
Sovereignty,” or holistic veteri-
narian Ihor Basko discuss the
lives of island animals on “Pets
in Paradise.” These sounds of
Kauai are almost as rich and
varied as the Garden Isle itself.
kkcr.org — michele bigley

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Scoop of Find Your Buzz

the Islands an island sunrise isn’t complete
without that strong cup of coffee. So
Forget ordering the kiddie-size
ensure your fix by staying in
cup. At Ziouka Glaces on Marti-
stay
the promised land.
nique, indulge in several scoops
At the Losari Spa Retreat
and explore island heritage with Java & Coffee Plantation, the best
every spoonful. The village of
part of waking up is all around you. Set
Le Carbet has been celebrating
on a hill in central Java, this working
the 10th anniversary of flavors
coffee plantation became a resort in 1991.
­inspired by the Creole garden.
Today, 24 villas — each one a traditional,
First unveiled at the Sainte-Marie
restored island estate — overlook more
gastronomy show in 1999, manioc
than 50 acres of bright-red, robusta cof-
ice cream pays
fee beans and are decorated in antique
homage to the
food wooden furniture as dark and rich as
island’s ancestry.
Martinique Also known as cas- a full-bodied blend. Venture into the
fields on the resort’s Coffee Plantation
sava, the long, gnarled root was
Tour. The one-hour guided walk takes
once a staple of the West Indies’
you through four kinds of plantations
French Creole diet due to its high
and offers a glimpse into the life of a
energy value. Today, manioc ice
coffee bean — from the moment it’s
cream topped with aged Martin-
picked through the drying and roast-
ique rum is a popular local night-
ing process, all the way to the steaming
cap. Shop owner Claude Ziouka
cup. Next, head to the spa for a Losari
also delivers the handcrafted,
Coffee Scrub, where slow hands and a
pastel-hued ice cream to restau-
blend of freshly ground coffee, coconut milk, yogurt and cinnamon soothe and
rants across the island. Other
exfoliate. Pick up a bag of beans at the Gallery, the resort’s gift shop and the only
Creole favorites include giramoun
place in the world where you can purchase this plantation’s signature blend. Finish
(pumpkin), ­citron and sugar cane.
the day the same way you started it: Enjoy the fruits of the fields around you — one
Sure beats vanilla with sprinkles.
slow, delicious sip at a time. Rates from $350. losari.info — ae
martinique.org — michele peterson

f r o m t o p : c o u r t e s y l o s a r i s pa r e t r e at & c o ff e e p l a n tat i o n ( 2 ) ; z ac h s t ova l l

more caffeinated resorts � Explore Jamaica’s Blue Mountain coffee planta-
tions from Strawberry Hill Hotel & Spa. islandoutpost.com � Sip Kona coffee at
the Ka‘awa Loa Plantation guesthouse on the Big Island. ­kaawaloaplantation.com
� Pick your own coffee, and then have it roasted and shipped home during your
stay at Hacienda El Jibarito on Puerto Rico. haciendaeljibarito.com

Remote Residents Where can you move

to get away from it all? Tristan da Cunha.
­Considered the most remote inhabited loca-
did you know
tion on earth, this archipelago
Tristan da midway between Africa and South
Cunha America is home to about 270
adventurous residents. The closest mainland is
the Cape of Good Hope, South Africa, 1,740
miles away. So don’t forget your toothbrush.

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Drink, Glow, Repeat This ­winter,
indulge in steamy mugs of aromatic gløgg on the
island of Sjælland. This Danish take on mulled
wine dates to a time when ancient Scandina-
vians added honey and spices to
drink wine-gone-bad to make it palatable.
Today, family recipes are variations
Sjælland of red wine, aquavit, cinnamon, car-
damom, raisins and slivered almonds. Whether
imbibing at holiday gløgg stands, local bars
(try Hviids Vinstue’s rum-and-cognac blend)
or someone’s home, remember that gløgg is an
unhurried pleasure. First, raise a skål (­Danish
toast); then inhale the
aromas drifting on the
rising steam. Take sips
and spoon out almonds
and raisins that pop like
little Christmas pres-
ents. Order your next
cup; the holiday glow
lasts only as long as the
drink. visitdenmark.com
— janis frawley
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Plants with Feelings
Rock a dying plant in a
hammock — while l­earning
why — at Den Paradera
on Curaçao.
activity ­Dinah ­Veeris,
a teacher
Curaçao turned island
herbalist, started this
special garden on the east
coast in 1995. She interviewed elders about disappearing
herbal remedies and then scoured the island for the species
they use. Now her garden has more than 300 species that
­reflect the island’s diverse population. On a one-hour tour
with Dinah, learn about drying and cutting techniques and
herbal cures (basora kora is recommended for heart and cir-
culation health). See displays of traditional homes made from
mud, manure and grass. Browse the shop for aloe syrups to
soothe coughs and kalbas fruit shampoo for graying hair as
well as more esoteric cures like native white basil, which is
said to reconnect a newborn baby’s brain to the cosmos. As
for those dying plants, the rocking (and accompanying song)
is a part of Curaçao’s folklore. Who knew plants were so
­sensitive? Tours from $8. dinahveerisherbs.com — terry ward
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Anna In-Between
anyone who’s ever visited the caribbean knows
that life on an island is different than life on the mainland.
It is slower, more remote. Urgency just doesn’t exist as we
know it. Such is the quandary for Anna Sinclair, the
read main character in Anna In-Between, the latest novel
from Trinidadian author Elizabeth Nunez. As the title
suggests, Anna is torn between two very different worlds
when she pays an extended visit to her aging parents on their
island home. As her career as a successful book editor calls
her back to a busy life in New York City, her mother’s aggres-
sive breast cancer pulls her back into an island past. In the
f r o m l e f t: o t t m a r b i e r wag e n ; l a r r y l u x n e r ;
midst of a family crisis, Anna struggles with the idea of race
in a colonial society while her parents cling to simple island
rituals — like tea and coconut sweet bread
at 4 o’clock every afternoon. Though the
island where the novel takes place is never
identified, other details of Anna’s stay there
are made very clear: the taste of salted fish
served at breakfast, the smell of mango
jon whittle (2)
trees in her parents’ garden, the sound of
barking dogs at dusk. It’s these vivid details
that serve to make Anna’s story — and her
island — so compelling. $22.95 — ae
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Waking Up in Eden
ready for an adventurous escape to the
lush, exotic world of Kauai? In her new memoir,
Waking Up in Eden: In ­Pursuit of an Impassioned Life on
an Imperiled Island, Lucinda Fleeson describes two
life-changing years when she did just that. The
former newspaper reporter left Philadelphia on a
whim and took a fundraising gig at the National
Tropical ­Botanical Garden on Kauai. While dis-
covering and promoting the island’s rich plant
life, Fleeson’s journalistic curiosity leads her
down many tropical paths. She embraces Ha-
waiian festivities and food traditions, and even joins an all-
female outrigger canoe team. In one section, Fleeson meets
and befriends a reclusive plant rescuer whose private preserve
contains rare specimens of Kokia kauaiensis, a native hibiscus
that grows only in the mountains of Kauai, and a huge ­native
palm, Pritchardia aylmer-robinsonii, from the tiny island of Nii-
hau. Her anecdotes reveal a portrait of Kauai that few tourists
ever see. And she plants a garden that changes her life: “Dur-
ing a time when I felt the earth shifting under me, something
about literally putting down roots helped create a feeling of
sanity,” she writes. That’s the magic of gardening, even in a
tropical paradise. $13.95 — debra prinzing

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