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Wallet Pattern

Wallet Pattern

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Published by katie-roberts-8799
Just something I dreamed up one day. I haven't actually made it. :)
Just something I dreamed up one day. I haven't actually made it. :)

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Published by: katie-roberts-8799 on Dec 15, 2009
Copyright:Attribution Non-commercial

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10/15/2012

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Wallet Pattern
Materials: Outer fabric, lining fabric, heavy interfacing (such as timtex, fusible),interfacing (fusible), Velcro squares, 8” zipper  NOTE: Use a ½” seam allowance throughout, unless otherwise stated.Panel A: 8 ¾” x 9 ½”Panel B: 8 ¾” x 4 ¼”Panel C: 8 ¾” x 4 ¾”Panel D: 8 ¾” x 4”Panel E: 8 ¾” x 3 ¼”Panel F: 8 ¾” x 2 ½”Panel G: 8 ¾” x 6 ¾”Panel H: 8 ¾” x 3 ¾”Panel I: 8 ¾” x 4 ¼”Panel J: 3” x 5”Cut from Outer fabric:
One of each: A, B, C, D, E, F, G, H, JCut from lining fabric:
One of each: A, B, C, D, E, F, ICut from heavy interfacing:
One A panelCut from regular interfacing:
One of each: B, C, H, JDIRECTIONS:1.Take the interfacing panels A, B, C, H, and J and attach them by machine basting just short of a ½” seam allowance to their corresponding fabric panels, fusible side facing the wrong side of the outer fabric and the non-fusible side facing the wrong side of the lining fabric (when there is nocorresponding outer fabric panel, use the corresponding lining fabric, andface the non-fusible side of the interfacing to the wrong side of the liningfabric). Trim the seam allowances of the interfacing only - to reduce bulk.2.Take panel G; place the male side of the Velcro in the middle of one of thelonger edges, 1” from the bottom of the raw edge. Topstitch in place.3.Take panel J. Fold the fabric in lengthwise, interfaced/wrong sidestogether. Gently iron the crease. Unfold, then fold the short raw edges in½” towards the interfaced/wrong side and press hard. Next, fold in thelong raw edges in ½” towards the interfaced/wrong side. Press hard. Keepthe edges all folded in for the next step. Fold the panel in half lengthwisealong the crease you’ve already made. Pin in place and topstitch all theway around. Iron once done, making sure to fuse the interfacing.4.Center the female part of the Velcro on the panel you just made,topstitching in place.
 
5.Take panel I. Lay it flat right side up, long sides going horizontally and theshort sides going vertically to how you’re looking at it. Take the zipper,with the zipper pull right side up, and lay the wrong side of the zipper onthe top of the panel, overlapping the top raw edge. Center the zipper however you want (it’s probably a good idea to line up the end with thezipper pull to the end of the fabric, and cut of the end of the zipper that’sextra). Stitch the panel and the zipper together using the zipper foot.6.Take panel G. Along the short edge without the Velcro, fold the raw edgeunder ½” towards the wrong side and press it flat. Lay this folded edgealong the top of the zipper (on top of the stitches that attaches the zipper tothe lining), centering the zipper, and pin (or glue) in place. Topstitch the panel onto the zipper using a zipper foot attachment.7.Take panel H. Center the end of the tab - that does not have the Velcroattached - on the long end of the panel. Adjust the length as desired and asneeded. The tab should be facing in, up towards the opposite long end, notdown. Machine baste just short of a ½” seam allowance. Trim off theexcess (or keep it long, just in case you change your mind about how longit should be). Make sure that during the rest of the sewing, it does not gettangled up elsewhere.8.Take panel H. Along the long edge without the tab, fold the raw edgeunder ½” towards the wrong side and press it flat. Lay this folded edgealong the bottom of the zipper (with the zipper pull facing up towards you,move the lining fabric out of the way), and pin or glue in place. Topstitchthe panel onto the zipper using the zipper foot, making sure the liningfabric does not get caught up in the machine. The outer part of the walletis now done. Put aside.9.Take panel F in both the lining and outer fabrics. Place right sidestogether, pin, and stitch along one of the long edges. Turn so that the rightsides of the fabric face outward, press pretty (which will fuse theinterfacing, if there is any), and topstitch along the finished edge. Machine baste just short of a ½” seam allowance down the sides and along the bottom of the panel.10.Repeat step 5 for panels B, C, D, and E as well. The only difference is that panels E and D will not be fused, but C and B will. You should be leftwith five panels that are of varying lengths but the same widths,topstitched along one edge, and machine basted down the sides and alongthe bottom edges.11.Take the finished panels C, D, E, and F. Line them up so that they matchon the bottom and side edges, but don’t match at the top. They should look like the diagram. F should be on top of E, which is on top of D, which isthen on top of C. Machine baste them all together, lined up and pinnedcarefully, just short of a ½” seam allowance.12.Mark the halfway point of that last piece (which is 3 7/8” in from either side). Then stitch up the middle, backstitching at each end. This will createdouble the spaces for your credit cards.

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