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s9_p95 Analysis of Classical and Modern Production Line for Production of Male Denim Jacket

s9_p95 Analysis of Classical and Modern Production Line for Production of Male Denim Jacket

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01/28/2012

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INTERNATIONAL SCIENTIFIC CONFERENCE20 – 21 November 2009, GABROVO
ANALYSIS OF CLASSICAL AND MODERN PRODUCTION LINE FORPRODUCTION OF MALE DENIM JACKET
Gordana Colovic
The College of Textile-DesignTechnology and Management  Belgrade
Danijela Paunovic
 
Goran Savanovic
 The College of Textile-DesignTechnology and Management  BelgradeThe College of Textile-DesignTechnology and Management  Belgrade
Abstract
 
The aim of this paper is that based on the theoretical and practical research point to the possibility of raising theoverall level of development and management process for designing clothes clothing from denim. The analysis of thedifferences and advantages of line with modern machines compared to traditional product line of men's denim jackets from the business and manufacturing system "Ramax". Application of modern machines than the classic way of making clothes allows you to: increase the volume of production and availability of data, shortening the time of production,increase quality standards of production, faster response to market trends, systematic organization of work, reducecosts and increase profit.
Keywords:
manufacturing garment, modern production line, time of production
INTRODUCTION
In garment industry produces hundreds of different clothes to thousands of variants.Thanks to scientific and technical progress inthis field have developed the most advancedtechnologies in the design process clothing jeans clothing. Today's level of moderntechnology in garment industry varies fromsewing machines to microcomputers, andspecialized sewing machines, automata, andsecond, the programmed microprocessor controlled sewing machines and robots, aswell as the introduction computer system(CAD-CAM).Last 30 years appears and contributessignificantly to the development of electronicsystems guided driving machines in theindustry of clothing, with a number of automatic features, improved technical and alarge number of additional devices. Theappearance of micro-computers has enabledthe connection of different production systems,the application of mechatronics and industrialrobots. Immediately after the appearance of computers on the market started their application in business clothing manufacturer,after the operative preparation and production.Linking spatially distant computers, directcommunication, using the same data, or their rapid transformation, connection with the preparation of the technical production processled to the emergence of the concept of CIM inmanufacturing clothing. [1]
RESEARCH AND RESEARCH RESULTS
Today in the industrial production of garment use a large number of machineswhich differ in construction, degree of automation and use. Sewing men's denim jackets in the business of manufacturingsystem "Ramax" used the following machines:- Common 755 Brother sewing machine hasa sewing needle and uses two threads,upper and lower suture needle or thread
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receiver. For the normal operation of sewing stitches flat granular (Type 301)and falls machine with a speed of 5000-6000 stitch/min.- Special machines with edges stingsBROTHER B551 is used for partsseaming apparel cases in order to preventdropout of materials, as well as for assembling parts. This machine uses 3 or 5 seams, and one or two needles, sodepending on the surface of the materialreceived two stitches, edge flashingswhich parts of the seam, which compiles pieces of clothing. This machine hassewing speed of 7000 stitch/min.- Special machinery company BROTHER used for packing clothing and parts with aknife, which has made cutting the excessmaterial.- Special machine with two needlesBROTHER Company has two needles,two vertical receivers, two thread tensionregulator; pedal a special shape, platewith two openings and a flat base plate.The distance between the needles from1.6 to 70 mm and the length of  penetration ranges up to 5 mm. Becauseof these characteristics is achieved havetwo parallel comparative points. SewingCorner stitches this machine has a devicefor a needle off from work, while thematerial does not need to turn the corner,and then continue with two needles.Speed needle sewing machine of the 2800to 3500 stitch/min and sewing flatgranular Type 301 stitches- Automatic sewing machines where allfunctions are performed automaticallysewing, according to a preconceived program. The worker has the task to position the material, that the programmed parameters and includesewing machine. After sewing machinemade the appropriate seam, stop with theneedle in the pre-specified position,automatically cut off and postponedsuture material.- Controller for making pocket markedBASS 3100
th
.- Controller for sewing companyVI.BE.MAC pocket carries the factorylabel N in 2516.- Controller for sewing label companyVI.BE.MAC (Figure 4), marked 1010 V3DLC.- Controller for making ''French'' seamcompany VI.BE.MAC, marked 2261H.- Controller for making the belt and cuff thefirm VI.BE.MAC, marked 3022 CS- Controller for making secure BROTHER Company used to consolidate andincrease especially in places strainedseams of pockets, eyelet, variousopenings, etc. It belongs to the shortseams sewing automata. There areautomata with 14, 21, and 42 stitches, andcan be done to consolidate and increaseneck seams that are longitudinal,transverse and circular.- Controller for making hole GLOBALCompany, marked 770 or 778, in order tospeed 2800-3500 rpm. Automaticallyfeeds making holes, cutting holes andseaming chain stings, making secure andcutting threads.Differences and advantages of line withmodern machines compared to traditional production line will show the followinganalysis of the results obtained in experimentalwork.Analysis was done and comparison of thefollowing parameters:1. Time making certain operations work.2. Cost of certain operations work.3. Number of pieces produced for theworking time.4. Production time of the denim jackets for men.5. Cost of the denim jackets for men.6. Saving labor.1) Time of making certain operations of work 
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Table 1.
Time of making
Operation of work Time (s) inclassical productionlineTime (s) inmodern productionlineMaking pockets onfront part660 194Sewing pockets220 34Sewing labels66 14Sewing front pies44 17Thecomposition of the shoulder stitches52 16Thecomposition of the sleeve andside stitches88 48Making the belt106 11Making cuff 146 20
2) Cost of certain operations work 
Table 2.
Cost of certain operations work 
Operation of work classical productionline(RSD)modern productionline(RSD)Making pockets onfront part13,04 3,82Sewing pockets4,35 0,67Sewing labels1,30 0,27Sewing front pies0,87 0,33Thecomposition of the shoulder stitches1,04 0,31Thecomposition of the sleeve andside stitches1,74 0,94Making the belt2,10 0,22Making cuff 2,88 0,40
Price development of certain operations of the modern line with significantly lesscompared with the line without the automaticmachine.3) Number of pieces
Table 3.
Number of pieces for 26400 s
Operation of work classical productionlinemodern productionlineSewing pockets 120 776Sewing labels 400 1886Sewing front pies600 1553The compositionof the shoulder stitches507 1650The compositionof the sleeve andside stitches300 550Making the belt 249 1400Making cuff 146 1320
4) Production time of the denim jackets for men
Table 4.
Production time of the denim jacketsfor men
 Number jacket 1 100 250Time (s) inclassical production line5060 506000 1265000Time (s) inmodern productionline3231 323100 807750
5) Cost of the denim jackets for men
Table 5.
Cost of the denim jackets for men
 Number jacket 1 100 250Cost inclassical production line93,80 938023450Cost inmodern production line609,5605915147,5
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