12mm-thick

compressed fibre
cement sheet
Sand
Vermiculite
insulating layer
Hotface layer
Paver skirt
Paver floor
Angle iron
supports
400 x 200 x 200mm
masonry block base
Bulk fill
10mm thick
galvanised
steel lintel
Stainless steel flue
Internal height of
oven 375 to 450mm
40mm tile surround
Oven door
(right angle shown)
Decomposed
granite fill
Fill cavity openings
with concrete
Half block
Diagram A
Internal height of
oven 375 to 450mm
12mm-thick
compressed
cement sheet
Decomposed
granite fill
Vermiculite
insulating layer
Hotface layer
Paver skirt
Paver floor
Angle iron
supports
400 x 200 x 200mm
masonry block base
Bulk fill
10mm- thick
galvanised
steel lintel
Stainless steel flue
40mm-thick tile surround
Oven door
(right angle shown)
Diagram B
Sand
300mm
500mm
5mm wedge
placed at
corners
Diagram C
30mm
JULY 2008
oven
Do you love cooking and dining alfresco?
Then move on from the backyard barbecue
and build yourself a wood-fired pizza oven
wood-fired
AS
SEEN
ON
Theyll be lining up at the
garden gate for a table when
you stoke up your pizza oven
and wonderful smells fill the air.
B
uilding your own low-tech wood-fred pizza oven is a
substantial undertaking. But the whole process can be reduced
to a series of small steps. And you dont have to build the
whole thing in a weekend. It is built from the ground up, starting
with the base, the cooking surface and then the dome. The oven can
be built on any flat site, or even on a terraced bank of earth behind a
retaining wall, as long as it is well compacted and drained properly.
The oven is built with a raised, solid paver floor supported at a
comfortable working height.
The massive floor provides a
heatbank in which the heat of
the oven can be stored. While
the supporting base could be
built of various materials, bricks
or masonry blocks are ideal.
As this low-tech oven is
principally unfired adobe, it is
not weather-resistant and will
need to be sheltered from the
rain. This can take the form
of a plastic or vinyl cover (the
chimney can be withdrawn),
similar to a barbecue cover,
or a small skillion roof can be
built over the oven.
HERES HOW
STEP 1 (see Diagrams A and B) Pour a
1500 x 1300 x 75-100mm deep concrete
slab in formwork made of old floorboards or
framing timber. This is easiest if you order a
small quantity of ready-mixed concrete once
the formwork is prepared. To limit cracking,
include a 1400 x 1200mm piece of F62
steel mesh in the centre of the concrete.
Once the concrete has set, keep the slab
wet to cure it properly. After 3-4 days, build a
1400 x 1200mm base made of 400 x 200
x 200mm hollow concrete blocks. Build up
the first 3 courses as shown.
STEP 2 Install a flat 1000 x 10mm-thick
galvanised steel lintel over the opening and
4 lengths of angle iron across the opening as
shown in the diagram. You will need to grind
off small vertical sections of the steel angles
of each end so they sit flat on the blocks.
Add the last course of blocks.
STEP 3 To support the thick oven floor, insert
a sheet of 12mm compressed fibre cement
onto the angle iron to form a well. You could
also pour a suspended concrete slab but this
would need formwork on the underside and
reinforcing. Fill the hollows of the concrete
blocks with concrete (with 5 or 10mm gravel
size) or stuff paper into the hole of the top
block to only fill the top 100mm or so.
STEP 4 Lay a bed of decomposed granite
(granitic gravel with some clay content) to
the level of the top of the blocks. Pack this
down well so it is hard. Avoid using sand as
it tends to shift and not pack down well. The
function of this thick bed is to absorb the
heat while the oven is heating up but it also
retains and returns heat to the oven once the
fire is out. It is especially good when baking
bread or cooking roasts.
STEP 5 Once the decomposed granite has
been packed tightly into the well, spread
and level a 10-15mm-thick layer of brickies
sand over the surface as a level bed for the
oven floor. This is easy to do by placing a
10-15mm batten each side of the well and
use this as screeding rails. The sand can
extend a little over the block work. Then
straighten the edges.
STEP 6 Mark in a front edge line, parallel
to the front and set back enough to
accommodate the tiles or other surrounding
surface, to create a handy workbench in front
of the oven opening. Also mark in a centre
line from front to back.
STEP 7 Starting at the front set-out line,
place the pavers upside down so that
square sharp edges face up and there are no
bevelled edges which would create grooves
in the oven floor. There is no need for mortar
between the pavers or bricks. Only cover the
floor area of the oven with the pavers. An oval
shape is much better for heat distribution
than a circular plan.
STEP 8 Form a skir t of pavers-on-edge
as the inner circumference of the oven
without gluing them down at this stage.
These pavers are strong enough to withstand
the wear and tear of the oven broom and
also protect the lower section from burning
timber bumping into the oven wall. At this
stage, make sure you leave plenty of room to
the outside of the skirt to allow for the bulk
fill and insulation, while still leaving space
for the tiling. And dont forget to leave a gap
of 65mm at the front of the oven to allow
for the door mould.
STEP 9 Once you are happy with the layout,
use a pencil to trace the position of the
skirting pavers on the oven floor. Apply a thin
coat of air-setting high-temperature mortar
or fireproof cement to the base and edge of
the pavers and set in place. Tap each paver
in place with a rubber mallet.
STEP 10 Wipe the bead of excess mortar
with your finger to create a neat coving
around the base of the skirt. Clean off any
excess with a damp sponge. Fill any gaps
between the floor and skirt with the same
material, then sponge back to make a clean
surface. Allow to dry.
GATHER YOUR SUPPLIES
n 0.2 cubic metres of ready-mix concrete or concrete mix
n Old floorboards or framing timber for formwork
n 1400 x 1200mm piece of F62 steel mesh
n 37 masonry blocks, 400 x 200 x 200 mm
n 2 half blocks for base (see Diagram A)
n 3-4 bags of mortar mix
n Flat 1000 x 10mm thick galvanised steel lintel
n 4 lengths of 32 x 32 x 4mm or 50 x 50 x 6mm x 900mm angle iron
n 1000 x 800 x 12mm compressed fibre cement sheet
n

cubic metre decomposed granite or similar

n

cubic metre brickies sand for oven floor and sand mould
n Smooth bricks or clay pavers for oven floor and skirt
n 40mm-thick tiles or pavers for oven surround
n Air-setting mortar or fireproof cement
n 32 or 16mm exterior grade plywood (2 or 4 of 300 x 500mm)
n 900 x 112mm diameter stainless steel flue pipe (4 is fine)
n Half wheelbarrow of clay or bags of powdered clay
n Half wheelbarrow of crusher or stone dust or 5mm minus aggregate
n 1-2 bags cement
n 500mm sisal rope
n 100 litre bag of vermiculite
n Plastic drop sheet
n Temperature gauge, 0 to 500C, 75mm dial, 300mm probe
n Bondcrete (optional)
n Oxide colouring (optional)
YOULL ALSO NEED
Wheelbarrow; jigsaw; angle grinder with metal cutting disc; spade or hoe;
brickies trowel and float; rubber mallet; bucket and sponge; garden and
kitchen sieves; measuring tape; straightedge and spirit level; hammer;
screwdriver; safety goggles, ear muffs and dust mask; broad paintbrush
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STEP 11 To make the door mould (see
Diagram C), use 32mm plywood offcuts or
double layers of 16mm plywood. To make
removal easier, the mould is not a perfect
semicircle, rather a 250mm radius with the
sides extended down for a total height of
300mm. The shape does not have to be
perfect and you can even draw the shape
freehand if you want to. The smaller inner
piece is 30mm smaller all around. Now cut
the shapes out with a jigsaw, then glue and
screw them together.
STEP 12 Sit door mould on two 5mm-high
wedges at the front of the floor and support
with blocks or bricks. If you ultimately want
to use a lean-to steel door for the oven, use
the wedges to slope the moulding backwards
slightly. For a vertical door with a flat base,
set the mould vertically. To save on moulding
sand, you can use polystyrene boxes as
fillers. These will be broken up and removed
through the door opening when the oven is
finally completed. As an extra precaution to
prevent the roof collapsing when the sand is
removed, prop a 375-425mm post (height
is not critical) with an old plate on top in the
centre of the dome.
STEP 13 Gently shovel brickies sand over
the central post and foam boxes. Form it into
a low-pitched dome using a trowel or float,
so it just covers the central post.
STEP 14 Shape the dome so the sand just
meets the inner edge of the door mould and
the paver skirt all round. Trowel the sand to a
smooth finish. Brush excess sand off the top
of the perimeter pavers.
Selecting the oven floor
Special firebrick or refractory tiles
are ideal for the oven floor, but can
be expensive. A suitable floor can be
made from dry pressed brick pavers
or bricks. Avoid extruded or wire-cut
bricks or pavers as they rarely have
smooth surfaces. If only wire-cut
bricks or pavers are available, find the
smoothest bricks you can. Dont be
tempted to use fully-vitrified (glass-like)
ceramic floor tiles, even though most
have smooth surfaces and edges. They
tend to crack with the uneven heating
when firing up the oven.
STEP 4 STEP 5
STEP 6 STEP 8
STEP 9 STEP 10
STEP 11 STEP 12 STEP 13 STEP 14
3 to 4mm mild
steel lean-to door
Vertical steel door
3mm strap
handles
Diagram D
Stockists: Pizza oven built by Wood Fired
Oven Workshops, (02) 6494 0015 or www.
woodfiredovenworkshops.com Dry clay powder (ball clay
or terracotta), Walker Ceramics, (03) 9725 7255 with
distributors Australia wide or Pottery Supplies, (02) 8756
5900 or (07) 3368 2877. High temperature air-setting
mortar and vermiculite, Field Furnace Refractories, (02)
97291799; Refractory and Ceramics, (03) 95604477;
The Clay Shed, (07) 54765977; Sila Australia, (08)
9455 3133. Pizza oven temperature probes, 0-500C
(BL 3), Temperature Controls, (02) 9721 8644 or (03)
9687 0000. One-third

cubic metre brickies sand; clean
sharp sand; crusher dust; decomposed granite; cement,
from landscape suppliers or sand, soil and gravel suppliers.
Masonry blocks; bricks; clay pavers or tiles, from brick and
block suppliers or brick and paver outlets. Compressed thick
sheet (cut to size); angle iron; cement; sisal rope; plastic
drop sheet, from builders hardware outlets or large hardware
stores. Angle iron and steel door, from local steel fabricators.
Vermiculite, from hydroponic suppliers. Stainless steel flue,
from wood stove and heating specialists. Fireproof cement,
from builders suppliers or refractory suppliers. Plywood
offcuts, Mister Ply&Wood, 1300 138 771 or
www.misterplywood.com.au
Creating an oven door
You could use the door mould as the oven door when
baking bread or roasting, as the temperature is lower. Just
cut 10-15mm from the base. However, as the plywood is
likely to delaminate, its better to make a new one out of
solid pine. If you soak the door in water before use, it will
give off steam and promote a crusty surface on bread.
To make a steel door, mark the outline of the outer arc
on paper and draw a parallel line 10mm inside the arc.
Cut the paper to the inner mark and use as a template
for your steel fabricator to cut a 3-4mm steel door. Add
a couple of handles so its easy to move. For a vertical
door, add a base so it stands without tipping forward.
STEP 15 Cut a 175mm length off the
112mm (or 4) stainless steel flue pipe
from the non-crimped end as a temporary
chimney mould. Use a metal cutting disc,
sui tabl e for stai nl ess steel , and wear
appropriate eye and ear protection.
STEP 16 Wrap the flue section with thin
cardboard to make later removal easier.
Tap the pipe into the sand centred over the
door opening and about 50mm back from
the door mould, leaving about 150mm
protruding from the sand mould. Then cover
the whole dome with a single thickness of
thin plastic sheet, such as a painters drop
sheet. This prevents the next coating from
sticking to the sand mould. Cut a small hole
in the plastic to accommodate the chimney
pipe and tape in place.
STEP 17 The hotface layer of the oven
dome is in direct contact with the flames. It
is a mixture of plastic clay, brickies sand and
crusher dust with a little cement and fibre
added. If buying powdered clay by the bag
ask for a plastic clay such as terracotta or
ball clay. Avoid fire clays as these tend to be
less plastic. A cheaper alternative is clay dug
or reclaimed from excavations, earthworks
or swimming pool projects. Check with local
contractors. See Choosing and testing your
clay (below), to determine whether the clay
you are using is suitable. To prepare natural
clay, break it up with a hammer and work
it through a garden sieve, making sure it is
very dry. You will need about half a barrow
of sieved clay for the whole project.
STEP 18 The other ingredients are brickies
sand, which is used by bricklayers and
contains a small amount of clay to make it
fatty, and crusher dust or stone dust, which
is the finest grade of aggregate available at
most landscape suppliers (less than 5mm in
size). The standard mix when using plastic
clay is equal parts of clay, sand and crusher
dust to make up half-a-wheelbarrow load
at a time. If the clay you are using is only
partly plastic, reduce the amount of sand and
crusher dust. To help bind the mixture and
minimise cracking, add a cup full of chopped
sisal fibre to half a barrow of mix. Simply
cut sisal (not synthetic) rope into 25-35mm
lengths and tease out the rope into single
fibres. Mix thoroughly while dry and set
aside half a bucket for use later on.
STEP 19 Add up to 5% builders (Portland)
cement to the other ingredients and dry
mix again. Then add water slowly, mixing
with a spade or hoe, until you have a soft,
but not sloppy, mix.
STEP 20 To slightly stiffen and thoroughly
blend the mix, knead small batches of the
mix on a flat surface that has been floured
with some of the dry mix previously set aside
(its just like rolling out pastry). Once the mix
is kneaded like dough its ready to use.
STEP 21 Now break off a small portion
of the kneaded clay and pat it into a thin
pancake shape about 10-15mm thick.
Starting at the top, apply the clay pancakes
to the dome and begin spreading outward
and downward. Each pancake shoul d
slightly overlap the previous one and the two
are pressed together.
STEP 22 Build up the clay mixture around
the chimney mould and press firmly into the
rebate of the door mould. Build up around
the door mould to the face of the mould.
Once the dome is covered in the first thin
layer of clay, beat it with a piece of timber to
make the layer tight and homogeneous.
STEP 23 If you want to include an optional
pizza-oven temperature probe, insert a 6mm
timber dowel or metal rod covered with a
sheet of gloss paper through the clay into
the sand mould, about one-third the distance
back from front to back and about half the
height of the internal height of the oven.
Place it at an angle so that the dial can be
easily read from the front of the oven.
STEP 24 As soon as the first thin layer is
complete, apply slightly thicker layers of clay
pancakes until the whole dome is covered
by 50mm of clay. It can be slightly thicker
around the door and chimney. Work fairly
quickly, because if layers start to dry it will
prevent a good bond between the layers.
Compact and smooth the edge surrounding
the door mould using a trowel. Avoid using
water if you can.
STEP 25 Once the clay mix has begun to
harden to the consistency of firm cheese,
through a combination of air-drying and
cement-setting action, remove the door
mould, to limit the amount of cracking as
the clay mixture shrinks around the opening.
Drive 2 screws into the timber mould, remove
the wedges beneath the door mould and use
the screws to gently pull outwards. As the
mould and plastic are pulled away, the door
rebate may require some tidying up using a
small amount of soft clay/sand mix.
STEP 26 As the clay becomes firmer, start
removing the sand mould and foam boxes.
Remove the central supporting post only
once you are sure that the hotface layer is
sufficiently firm to be self-supporting. At
this stage you should pull the plastic liner
from the ceiling of the dome and let the
whole structure dry completely. Repair any
small cracks which could develop where the
shrinking clay mix meets the non-shrinking
paver skirt, by painting over and filling the
crack with a thin slurry of 1 part clay to
4 parts sand. Its best to pass this wet mix
through a kitchen sieve first.
STEP 27 Remove the short piece of flue
pipe from the cardboard liner to allow any
shrinkage to take place, then remove the
cardboard liner. Paint the internal surface of
the chimney hole with the same thin slurry of
clay and sand to fill any creases or gaps.
STEP 28 Whi l e the dome i s dr yi ng
completely, lay the tile surround. Use thick
tiles or paving tiles that will bring the level
of exterior tiles to the level of the oven floor.
Before tiling, sweep any loose material from
around the oven. Its actually not necessary
to take the tiles right up to the paver skirt, as
the insulation layer will cover any gaps. Fill
gaps with sand.

STEP 29 To provide extra bulk and to help
shape the oven prior to the application of the
insulation layer, apply a stiff, dense 3:2:1 mix
of crusher dust, sand and cement or clay to
the outside of the skirt perimeter. Apply the
stiff mix around the base of the oven, sloping it
gradually up to the top of the skirt of pavers so
it covers the pavers and continues the curved
line of the dome. Remember to leave plenty
of tile surround showing to accommodate
the insulating layer.
STEP 30 The insulation layer is designed
to retain the heat contained in the dense
hotface layer. While there are several choices
of materials to use, the easiest to shape
over this igloo is vermiculite. You will need
a full 100-litre bag of vermiculite, available
from refractory suppliers and hydroponic
suppliers. Whatever you use, it has to be
low density and loosely packed, because it
is the tiny air pockets that do the insulating.
To give it some stability and allow you to
shape the material, make a 6:1:1 mix of
vermiculite, sieved clay and cement. Avoid
adding more clay or cement, as adding too
much dense material reduces the efficiency
of the insulation material.
STEP 31 Thoroughly mix the ingredients dry,
then add water until the mix is damp enough
to bind together. Apply the mix loosely in
thin layers, gradually building to a total
thickness of at least 50mm. The vermiculite
mix actually offers no strength to the oven
and if you pack the material too tightly or
apply too much pressure with the trowel it
will increase the density, thus reducing the
insulation properties. However, if it proves
too difficult to apply this mix to the steep
sides of the oven you may need to add a little
more clay and cement. Once all the material
has been applied, its time to lightly trowel it
to a smooth finish.
STEP 32 When the dome appears dry
again, give it a final brushable render coat of
a sieved 1:4 mix of clay and sand. You can
add a little oxide colouring if you want more
colour. You can also add a little Bondcrete
or cement to act as a binder if you like.
This fluid render will fill any small cracks
that may have occurred, and will need to
be reapplied from time to time as the oven
is constantly expanding and contracting
through repeated use.
STEP 33 Sweep the interior of the oven
clean of any remaining sand and remove
any excess plastic liner. Fit the remaining
longer-length flue pipe into the chimney hole
using a little clay/sand mix, if necessary, to
secure a tight fit.
STEP 34 When you are ready for the initial
firing of the oven, start with a very small fire
using very dry hardwood in the middle of
the oven floor so you raise the temperature
extremely slowly. Small gas and electric
heaters are also suitable for initial drying
as they are easy to control. Even though
the oven may seem completely dry, it will
still contain moisture in the structure. Any
rapid heating will cause the moisture to turn
to steam with disastrous results. Partially
block the doorway with bricks or pavers to
retain the heat in the oven as it heats up.
The small fire can be gradually built up
over many hours until the fire is spread
evenly over the floor. You should continue
heating to a temperature where the carbon
is seen to begin burning off the ceiling of
the dome. However, it is unnecessary to
take this cautious approach each time,
once the oven is initially heated. In normal
use, when firing up the oven the chimney
should be fully open but as the fire dies down
for pizza cooking the top may be partially
closed with a thin metal plate to act as a
damper. For baking bread and delicious
roasts when the fire is out, or removed, the
chimney should be totally blocked to retain
the heat and the doorway should be fully
closed. Bon appetito!
When setting the fire,
you will need lots of heat
to bring up the hearths
temperature. For great
pizzas, let the oven heat
up for about an hour. The
oven can reach more than
500C at its hottest! Scrape
the fire to the back and
away you go.
A critical final stage in
building your oven is
burning it in. A slow
fire, burning for a few
hours, will gently bake
the internal walls.
For great pizzas,
let the oven heat
up for an hour.
The oven can
reach more than
500C at its
hottest! Scrape
the fire to the
back and away
you go
STEP 15 STEP 16
STEP 21 STEP 22
STEP 27 STEP 28
STEP 31 STEP 32
STEP 17 STEP 18
STEP 23 STEP 24
STEP 19 STEP 20
STEP 25 STEP 26
STEP 29 STEP 30
STEP 33 STEP 34
Choosing and testing
your clay
You will need to test clay from natural
sources to make sure the final mix will
be plastic enough. This means it can be
easily moulded and will hold its shape.
Natural clay is common in many areas.
To test it for suitability, sieve (a kitchen
sieve is ideal) about a cup full of dry
clay into a container. Gradually mix in
enough water to form a soft mouldable
clay that can be kneaded and rolled
in the hands without stickiness. Roll
out a small rope slightly thicker than
a pencil, and try rolling it around your
finger. If the clay rolls around the finger
without breaking then it is regarded as
highly plastic. If it cracks but doesnt
break, then it is partly plastic. And if
it breaks and falls from the finger it
has low plasticity and is therefore
short. For this project you ideally
need clay that is highly plastic.