Key Largo & the Upper Florida Keys
By Bruce Morris
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Key Largo & the Upper Florida Keys - Bruce Morris
Key Largo & the Upper Florida Keys
HUNTER PUBLISHING, INC.
www.hunterpublishing.com
E-mail comments@hunterpublishing.com
IN CANADA:
Ulysses Travel Publications
4176 Saint-Denis, Montréal, Québec, Canada H2W 2M5
tel. 514-843-9882 ext. 2232 / fax 514-843-9448
IN THE UNITED KINGDOM:
Roundhouse Group
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East Sussex BN41 1WR, England
tel.01273-704963, fax 01273-704963
orders@roundhousegroup.co.uk
© 2010 Hunter Publishing, Inc.
All rights reserved. No part of this publication may be reproduced, stored in a retrieval system, or transmitted in any form, or by any means, electronic, mechanical, photocopying, recording, or otherwise, without the written permission of the publisher.
This guide focuses on recreational activities. As all such activities contain elements of risk, the publisher, author, affiliated individuals and companies disclaim any responsibility for any injury, harm, or illness that may occur to anyone through, or by use of, the information in this book. Every effort was made to insure the accuracy of information in this book, but the publisher and author do not assume, and hereby disclaim, any liability for loss or damage caused by errors, omissions, misleading information or potential travel problems caused by this guide, even if such errors or omissions result from negligence, accident or any other cause.
Introduction
Why Come?
How this Book is Organized
History
The Land
Climate
Flora & Fauna
Life in the Sea
The Florida Keys & the Everglades Today
The Arts
Fairs & Festivals
Food
Cost
Music
People
Adventures
On Land
Hikes & Walks
Beachcombing
Cycling
By Moped
In the Water
Beaches
Boating
Canoeing & Kayaking
Dolphin Interaction
Fishing
Scuba Diving
Snorkeling
In the Air
Flightseeing Tours
Author's Top Things to Do
Travel Information
The Region At a Glance
The Keys
Key West
Everglades National Park
When to Visit
Holidays & Cultural Events
Upper Keys
At a Glance
Getting Here & Getting Around
Area History & Highlights
Information Sources
Sightseeing
Suggested Itineraries
If You Have One Day
If You Have Three Days
If You Have a Week
Attractions
Beaches
Parks
Adventures
On Foot
Beachcombing
Birding
Bridge Walks
Golf
On Wheels
On Water
Boat Tours
Sailing
Canoeing & Kayaking
Dolphin Encounters
Fishing
Scuba Diving
Snorkeling
Sunset Cruises
Watersports
In the Air
Where to Stay
Ratings & Prices
Hotels & Resorts
Camping
Vacation Rentals
Where to Eat
Recommendations
The Best of the Rest
Nightlife
Introduction
As a boy growing up in Miami I fell in love with the beauty of the Keys and the wilderness of the Everglades. With a friend, I spent my weekends snorkeling, pole fishing along the Tamiami Trail and sailing in the Keys. When I was a teenager, my family moved to the hills of Tennessee (with its own wilderness charms) and I was unable to visit South Florida for almost 20 years. When I managed to return for a visit I was afraid that the over-development and urban sprawl I had seen in other parts of Florida had turned the Keys into just another tacky tourist haven. Thankfully, my fears were unfounded. Certainly, there are more hotels and cheesy, tourist-oriented attractions now than when I was a boy, but the minimal change surprised me. Although not totally unspoiled, both the Keys and the Everglades remain beautiful, full of wildlife and adventure. The fishing, diving and beautiful natural vistas I enjoyed as a boy are still there, and the magic of them can be easily appreciated by car, bike, boat or on foot.
To me, the greatest adventures in the Everglades and Keys involve the wonderful diversity of wildlife, plants and life in the sea. Part, if not most, of the fun of fishing is having an excuse to roam around the flats and reefs checking out birds and sea critters. The best part of scuba diving and snorkeling is looking for - and sometimes coming face-to-face with - some of the strangest looking creatures imaginable. On a short walk along any of the trails in Everglades National Park, you might just spot alligators, crocodiles, vultures or snapping turtles. I'm not much of a birder, but this region of Florida helps me to understand how enthusiasms can grow into intensely absorbing hobbies. Even with my casual knowledge of birds, I enjoy seeing anhingas, diving ducks, pelicans and egrets. I don't keep lists of the fish I see when diving, but I do enjoy browsing through reef fish identification charts after a dive and learning the names and habits of the psychedelically colored fish I encountered.
Adventure is where you find it and what you make it. It can be observing birds nesting, snorkeling almost motionlessly over sawgrass flats, watching shrimp do their thing, or scuba diving at the edge of the Gulf Stream while looking out for bull sharks and pelagic predators. But then, there is also plenty of adventure to be found almost any night on Duval Street in Key West.
Why Come?
Leaving the more earthly delights of Key West aside for a moment, the Keys and Everglades are places for people who enjoy the outdoors, particularly the sea. Because the water here is relatively shallow, calm and accessible, sea life is easily seen and appreciated. Coral reefs - surely one of the wonders of the world - are still astounding and relatively unspoiled, and the austere beauty of the Everglades has been preserved by the creation of the national park, which is now one of the Park Service's crowning jewels.
For the historically curious as well as hard-core party people or laid-back drifters, Key West is a paradise at the end of the road. If you plan to visit briefly for a few nights of fun, or want to stay awhile and gently go to seed (as so many do), Key West has all that lures such ambitions. The smell, flavor and visions of Hemingwayesque Old Key West with its pirates, spongers, quaint homes (many now serving as B&Bs) and historical walks exist in the middle of one of the premier party towns in the US. Key West lures the young, happy partygoers. A popular spring break destination, it has more festivals, street parties and loud, raucous bars and clubs than you'll have time to visit in a week. As a permanent residence for gay living and visits, the tolerant lifestyle and attitudes of the island are renowned.
While one can have a fine time in the Keys or Everglades without ever setting foot in a boat or dipping a toe in the water, the bulk of the area's charms lie offshore on the reefs, flats and in the canals and mangrove estuaries. To get the full Keys or Everglades experience, a boat, canoe, kayak or even an inner tube are required. Drifting over the shallow flats looking in the turtle grass at exotic seahorses is an experience that can't be had elsewhere. Some of the finest coral reefs in the world are hidden just a few miles offshore and are accessibly shallow, well preserved and astounding in their riot of color and unusual formations.
The sportfishing capital of the US, the Keys and Florida Bay offer both delicate fly-fishing for bonefish and pole-busting sailfish and tarpon action. Guides abound. Trips lasting a day or just a few hours can be arranged with little or no advance notice. Some guides even offer no fish, no pay
guarantees.
The Everglades seem a long way from Key West. There are no neon signs, no blazing bars, no clubs with guitar-strumming comedians. Instead there is profound silence, slow-moving canals, the desolate beauty of swamps and a sky filled with puffy white clouds gliding over endless miles of saw grass. The Everglades have long attracted the adventurous and those who appreciate nature at its wildest. Parks are designed to make it possible for wheelchair-bound travelers to access the wilderness and appreciate the beauty and variety of birds, exotic orchids, and even hissing crocodiles. To truly enjoy the area, one must be in a reflective and observant mood. Sometimes you have to look hard to spot the attractions. Fortunately, help in the form of the Park Service is at hand, with educational tours, guided walks and paddling expeditions on offer.
The balmy climate, tolerant lifestyle and outdoor opportunities attract a goodly share of retirees and snowbirds fleeing the frozen north. I loved playing here when I was growing up, and I plan on spending many years of my retirement doing the same. A small house on the bay with a dock, snorkeling and fishing gear, and a cooler of beer are all I need. Apparently, many others feel the same way.
History
Florida Before Columbus
When Europeans discovered
Florida it was already home to hundreds of thousands of Native Americans who enjoyed a rich culture and reasonably comfortable lifestyle. Although relatively barbarous and violent compared with our conception of civilized behavior today, their lifestyle was as comfortable and safe as that of the average rural European of the time.
Hundreds of archeological sites in the Everglades show signs of Paleo-Indian activity from approximately 10,000 BC. Bison, mammoth, saber-toothed tigers and other large beasts shared the area. The pre-glacial period humans were likely hunter-gatherers subsisting on small game, fruits of the sea and foraged vegetable foods. But as the glaciers retreated and the sea level rose, the climate changed and the present form of the Everglades began to take shape with cypress and saw grass swamps. The Archaic Period (8,000-750 BC) saw indigenous peoples developing basic tools and pottery, shards of which are still found today. During the Glades Period (750 BC-AD 1500), some permanent settlements developed and evidence - indicated by finds of ornaments and pottery typical of other regions - reveals there was extensive trade between people here and those in the Caribbean and Central America. During the Historic Contact Period (AD 500-1750), tribes that included the Calusa, Tequesta, Jeaga and Mayaimi may have had a combined population of as high as 20,000. As the Spaniards explored the area they spread diseases common in Europe, such as measles and syphilis, but they were new to the Florida region and decimated the population. Slavery and death, the byproducts of Spanish conquest, further contributed to the decline of the indigenous population, and by