fast facts

at your finger tips

The Do-It-Yourself
Repair Guide

20 21
 That pesky Check Engine
Light, the “Malfunction
Indicator Lamp” or “MIL” for
Today’s cars are
short, is on because your
controlled by a vehicle’s computer self-
diagnosed a fault that could
Powertrain Control cause your vehicle’s emissions
to increase. It doesn’t
Module (PCM), your
Oh No, the Check Engine Light is On!
engine’s computer. necessarily mean your vehicle
is polluting or has a serious
If you want to repair problem – but it might. So the
light is on to let you know
or modify your car’s
something is amiss that needs
performance, you your attention.
Trouble is, you don’t know
need a scantool to WHAT the trouble might be. It
might be something that could
communicate with
lead to a break-down
the PCM. or cause expensive engine
damage, or it might be
something minor like a loose
gas cap (yes, the on-board
diagnostics on 1996 and newer
cars can even detect a loose,
missing or leaking gas cap).
There’s no way to know what
the problem is without talking
to your vehicle’s computer.
How do you do that? By
plugging a diagnostic scantool
into your vehicle’s diagnostic
connector, usually found under
the dash near the steering
column. These tools unlock the
secrets that have turned on your
Check Engine Light and tell you
the nature of the problem.
Yet these tools are only the
messenger. It’s up to you to
combine information from the
tool with knowledge of how
the electronic systems in your
engine work to make an
2 accurate diagnosis.
This booklet will give you the
information you need to
understand how to diagnose
and repair the most common
problems in today’s cars, light
trucks and SUVs. Whether you
perform the repairs yourself, or
use the information to better
understand what your mechanic
is doing, it pays to understand
what is going on.
Don’t be a Parts Swapper
The number one mistake
made by do-it-yourself
mechanics is “parts-swapping”.
This expensive practice leads to
the replacement of hundreds of
dollars of perfectly good parts.
At best, a parts-swapper wastes
time and money. At its worst, a
parts-swapper creates new
problems where none existed.
Armed with the proper tool and
the information in this booklet,
you will be prepared to tackle
the most common problems
found on today’s vehicles,
without being a parts-swapper.
The On-board
Diagnostic System - OBD II
When a fault is detected, the
onboard diagnostics system
(OBD II) records a “diagnostic
trouble code” (DTC) in the
computer’s memory. The code
number corresponds to a
particular type of fault. The
code might not tell you which
component has failed or why,
but it will tell you which
emission control system or
sensor circuit the fault is in, or
that your engine is misfiring or
running rich (too much fuel)
Symptoms:
• Check Engine Light on • Poor Acceleration
Probable Cause(s):
• Oxygen Sensors (Codes P0130 to P0167)
• EVAP Code (P0445)
or lean (not enough fuel).
When a basic code reader is
plugged into your vehicle’s
diagnostic connector, it will
display any diagnostic trouble
codes that are found. The least
expensive code readers just
give you a number while the
better ones also give you the
definition of the code, too.
You can read codes and get an
idea of what’s wrong – and
you can even clear the codes
from the computer’s memory
to turn out the MIL lamp (at
least temporarily). But a code
by itself isn’t the whole story.
Take a code P0171 or P0174.
These are codes that indicate
your engine is running lean. A
lean air/fuel mixture can be
caused by any number of
things, and may cause
symptoms such as a rough idle,
hesitation or stumble when
accelerating, hard starting, a
loss of power or an emissions
failure. Okay, so your engine is
running lean. Now what?
The next step up the
diagnostic ladder is to use a
scantool that can actually
provide some real diagnostic
information beyond basic code
numbers. What kind of
information are we talking
• Poor Fuel Economy
Figure 1. Sample Virtual Dashboard
about? Real time sensor data.
This is the meat and potatoes
of onboard diagnostics and is
the data that real technicians
rely on to diagnose and repair
today’s vehicles. Some scantools
allow you to create a virtual
dashboard to monitor DTCs real
time parameters in a graph,
gauge, or tables shown in figure 1.
The diagnostic connector on
your vehicle can provide a
wealth of information, things
like engine speed, engine load,
air flow, ignition timing,
coolant temperature, inlet air
temperature, throttle position,
sensor voltages, what’s going
on with your engine’s fuel
management system, the
status of various switches and
devices, and more – in fact, up
to several hundred different
readings are available on some
cars depending on the make
and model year.
Diagnostic Scantools:
• Saves you money
• Saves you time
• Keeps your mechanic honest
Knowing what’s causing your
problem gives you the option
to either fix the problem
• Rough Idle
yourself or to take it to a
professional for repairs. If you
choose the latter, you won’t
be going in blind. You’ll be
armed with data that can save
diagnostic time and hopefully
some of your money.
In many instances, the Check
Engine Light is on because a
sensor has failed and needs to
be replaced. Some sensors are
relatively inexpensive and well
within the abilities of a do-it-
yourselfer to replace. Some
sensors, on the other hand,
are quite expensive. A mass
airflow sensor might cost a
couple hundred dollars or
more. So you want to be sure
of your diagnosis before you
replace such an expensive part
– especially since most dealers
or parts stores won’t take
returns on electronic parts
once they’ve been installed.
With these things in mind,
let’s look at some common
problems
you’re apt to Next…
encounter:
3
 Symptom: Check Engine Light is on

There are many potential voltage signal (0.2 volts or Probable Cause(s):
First, you need to read
issues that could cause your less) when the engine • Oxygen Sensors (codes P0130 to P0167)

out the code(s) that Check Engine Light to turn on. (exhaust, actually) is lean, and • EVAP Code (code P0445)

For example, say you find an a higher voltage signal (0.8

caused the Check oxygen sensor code (any code volts or more) when the
from P0130 to P0167). The engine (exhaust) is rich. The
Engine Light to come

PROBLEM #1: Check Engine Light On

(Everything else seems to be fine)

on. Depending on the oxygen sensor is a key sensor
because it is part of the fuel
type of code, your feedback control system. The
engine computer (called the
next step is to look at
“Powertrain Control Module”
the sensor that might or “PCM”) looks at the oxygen
sensor signal to see if the
shed some light on engine is running rich or lean.
If the engine is running rich
why the code was set.
(too much fuel), it shortens
the control signal to the fuel
injectors to reduce the volume
of fuel delivered. This
rebalances the air/fuel mixture
to the right ratio for optimum
fuel economy, performance
and emissions.
If the oxygen sensor is not
sending a good signal to the
PCM, it usually makes the
engine run rich. This wastes
fuel and increases emissions.
Consequently, the onboard
diagnostic system detects the
fault, sets a code and turns on
the Check Engine Light.
A diagnostic scantool enables
you to look at some important
data. You can look at the
output voltage of the oxygen
sensor to see if it is behaving
normally. A good oxygen
sensor should produce a low
sensor's output voltage should
be bouncing up and down as
the PCM constantly adjusts the
fuel mixture.
The best way to look at this
particular signal is to graph it.
Graphing the oxygen sensor’s
output signal makes it easier to
see the up and down changes
in the voltage (much easier
than a simple numeric readout).
The key here is using a scantool
that allows you to display and
graph this kind of information
in your desired format.
Figure 2 shows a real time
graph of front and rear sensors.
More importantly, you can see
that the Bank 1 sensor is
working, while Bank 2 is not.
Once you know your oxygen
sensor is not working, you can
now do any additional tests
that might be needed. Often
times, a fault in a sensor circuit
is a bad connector and not a
bad sensor. Simply cleaning
the connector may be all that's
necessary to bring the sensor
back to life.
Other times, you may have to
use a simple Ohmmeter to
check a resistance value, or a
voltmeter to check a circuit
voltage or ground connection
to isolate a fault.
The trick is to NOT jump to
conclusions. Make sure you’ve
identified and isolated the fault
BEFORE you replace any parts.
You’ll save yourself a lot of
time, money, and aggravation
if you remember and practice
this simple rule.
A perfect example is when
the Check Engine Light is on
and you find a code P0445.
This is an evaporative emissions
control system (EVAP) code
indicating a large vapor leak.
The fuel system on today’s
vehicles is sealed so fuel vapors
cannot escape into the
atmosphere. The EVAP system
captures and stores fuel vapors
to “recycle” them back
through the engine. If the
onboard diagnostic system
detects a leak in the EVAP
system, it will set a code and
turn on the Check Engine
Light. In this case, the code
P0445 may be due to nothing
Figure 2. Front and Rear Oxygen Sensor
more than a loose, missing, or
leaky gas gap. Check that the
gas cap is tight. If it’s not
loose, check the seal between
the cap and the filler tube for
corrosion. If you’ve corrected
the problem the EVAP code
will go away, and the Check
Engine Light will turn off,
without having to clear the
code. This will happen the next
time the onboard diagnostic
system runs a self-check on the
EVAP system. This usually
occurs after the vehicle sits
overnight and the fuel tank is
between 1/4 and 3/4 full.
Next…

4 5

With the price of gasoline,
Today’s engine
you don’t want to ignore
management systems this kind of problem for
long. When fuel economy is
rely on many different down, you may find any
number of codes:
sensor inputs to
PROBLEM #2: Fuel Economy is Down
(Check Engine Light may or may not be on)
regulate fuel economy, • P0172 and/or P0175 are
rich codes and indicate a
performance and general rich air/fuel
condition. The underlying
emissions.
cause may be anything that
increases fuel delivery, such
as excessive fuel pressure, a
defective fuel pressure
regulator or plugged return
line, or leaky injectors.
Decreased airflow from a
dirty air filter or restricted air
intake misleads the mass
airflow sensor or engine
management system into
believing the engine is using
more air or is under more
load than actual.
• Misfire codes P030X, where
X indicates the cylinder
number that is misfiring.
Misfire codes are bad
because they mean a whole
cylinder full of air/fuel
mixture is wasted every time
a cylinder fails to fire. The
cause may be a worn or dirty
spark plug, a bad plug wire,
a weak ignition coil in a
distributorless ignition
system (DIS) or coil-on-plug
(COP) ignition system, or a
dirty or dead fuel injector.
Misfires can make an engine
run rough and reduce
6 7
horsepower every time it
happens. Worse yet, the
unburned fuel that passes
right through the engine
goes into the exhaust. When
that fuel reaches the
catalytic converter, it will
ignite and may cause the
converter to overheat and
suffer damage. Misfires are
one of the two leading
causes of catalytic converter
failures (the other is leaky
exhaust valves).
• Oxygen sensor codes
(P0130 to P0167), or oxygen
sensor heater code (P0036
to P0064) indicate a fault
with that sensor. If the O2
sensor fails, it usually causes
the engine to run rich
leading to poor economy,
pollution and catalytic
converter failure. Never
replace an O2 sensor
without testing it first. Figure
3 shows failed Bank 1
Oxygen Sensors.
• P0115 to P0119 point to
a problem with the coolant
sensor. The coolant sensor
tells the engine computer
the temperature of the
coolant. The engine
computer needs this
information to adjust the
fuel mixture and ignition
timing as the engine warms
up. If the coolant sensor is
faulty and tells the computer
the engine is cold when it
Symptom: Poor Fuel Economy
Probable Causes:
• Fuel Rich Codes (P0172 and/or P0175) • Coolant Sensor (P0115 to P0119)
• Misfire Codes (P030x) • Mass Air Flow (P0100 to P0105)
• Oxygen Sensor Codes (P0130 to P0167) or (P0036 to P0064) • MAP Sensor (P0105 to P0109)
really is hot, the fuel mixture
will be too rich. Fuel
economy will drop like a rock
and the engine will pollute.
• P0100 to P0104 are mass
airflow (MAF) sensor codes.
The mass airflow sensor Figure 3. Failed Bank 1 Oxygen Sensors
measures airflow into the
engine. If it is not reading
correctly, the air/fuel mixture
won’t be right. This is an
expensive sensor to replace,
so in many instances
cleaning the delicate sensor
wire with an aerosol
electronics cleaner can return
it to normal operation.
• P0105 to P0109 Manifold
Absolute Pressure (MAP)
sensor codes. The MAP
sensor monitors engine load
by reacting to changes in Figure 4. Misfires rob your engine of performance and fuel economy
intake vacuum. If the sensor
reads incorrectly, the position, and the MAP sensor. adjustments and waste gas.
computer may think the If the air temp sensor is Using a scantool you can
engine is under more load reading colder than it should, graph and read important
than it actually is and give it the computer will give the parameters and monitor
more fuel than it needs. engine too much fuel. fuel economy (as shown in
• P0070 to P0074 Inlet Air The key to solving a fuel figure 4).
Temperature sensor. Some economy problem is figuring
fuel injected engines do not out which of these inputs is
use a mass airflow sensor. feeding the PCM bad Next…
Instead, these engines information. If the computer
calculate air flow using inputs receives bad sensor data, it
from this sensor, throttle will make the wrong

Many states now use
The OBD II onboard
diagnostic system that is
a simple Onboard
used on all 1996 and newer
Diagnostics (OBD II) passenger cars and light trucks
(as well as a few 1994 and
plug-in check instead
PROBLEM #3: Your Vehicle Failed
an Emissions Test (or was rejected)
of a lengthy tailpipe 1995 models) will set a fault
code and turn on the MIL
emissions test to verify lamp if it detects ANY problem
that MIGHT cause emissions to
emissions compliance.
exceed federal limits by 1.5
The OBD II tests are times. Notice we said MIGHT
cause emissions to exceed
only used on 1996 and limits. The actual point at
which a code is set is
newer vehicles, and
determined by the vehicle
may be used in manufacturer based on
extensive testing and how
combination with a conservative (or liberal) they
are with respect to the rules.
separate tailpipe test
So, in many instances, the MIL
in certain situations lamp may be on even if the
vehicle is not really creating a
(the rules vary from menace to the environment. In
fact, some vehicles with a MIL
state to state).
lamp on will easily pass a
tailpipe emissions test. Each
state makes their own testing
rules, and the rules have to
conform to what the U.S.
Environmental Protection
Agency requires.
To pass a plug-in OBD II
emissions test, a vehicle must:
• Have a functional Check
Engine Light and diagnostic
connector (no tampering or
funny business allowed).
8 9
• The Check Engine Light
must be off.
• Successfully complete the
OBD II system monitors that
are built-in to the vehicle.
The OBD II system runs a
number of self-checks (called
“monitors”) to check the
health of its engine
management system and
emission controls. Some of
these tests run every time the
engine is started and driven,
but others (the catalyst and
EVAP monitors) only run under
certain conditions. Getting the
catalyst monitor to run may
require driving the vehicle for
a number of miles under
various speeds and loads. The
EVAP monitor won’t run unless
the vehicle has sat overnight
and the fuel tank is between
1
/4 and 3/4 full. It also may not
run in extremely hot or
extremely cold weather.
Some code readers and
scantools will show you the
status of the OBD II monitors.
If the monitor has run, it may
say “COMPLETE” or “READY”
or “OK”. Figure 5 shows a
complete emissions test status
for a failed vehicle.
On OBD II vehicles before
model year 2000, the rules
may allow one monitor to be
Symptom: Failed Emission
Probable Causes:
Eleven monitors
• Catalyst Monitor
• Misfire
• Evaporative System
incomplete and still be
accepted for testing. Some
vehicles from 1996 to 1999
had ”monitor issues” that
essentially mean some
monitors NEVER run or set.
Special allowances are made
for these vehicles, or they may
have to take an alternate test.
If you failed the emissions
test, you probably had a
Check Engine Light on and
one or more DTCs in your
computer. Clearing the codes
or resetting the OBD II
monitors just before a test
won’t help you sneak through
because the catalyst and EVAP
monitors need time to run,
which also gives the Check
Engine Light and codes time
to reoccur. You have to
diagnose and repair the fault
before the vehicle will pass.
If your vehicle was rejected
for testing, it means all of the
required OBD II monitors had
not completed their self-tests.
Drive the vehicle for a few
days around town and on the
highway, and try again. You
can easily use your OBD II
• EGR System
• Fuel System
• Heated Catalyst
• Secondary Air System
Figure 5. Failed Emission Test
scantool to check the status of
the OBD II monitors before
you bring your vehicle to the
test facility.
If your vehicle failed a tailpipe
test and the Check Engine
Light is NOT on, chances are
you have a problem with the
OBD II system, a burned out
MIL lamp, or a faulty catalytic
converter. The converter is
essentially an afterburner that
cleans up the exhaust after it
exits the engine. The OBD II
system uses a “downstream”
oxygen sensor to monitor the
efficiency of the converter, and
it should detect a drop in
converter efficiency if the
converter has been
contaminated or is failing
• Comprehensive Component
• O2 Sensor
• O2 Sensor Heater
• A/C System Refrigerant
(ignition misfiring, leaky
exhaust valves, and oil burning
can all damage the converter).
What you want to look for:
Any conditions that might
cause ignition misfire, an
overly rich or lean fuel
condition, or loss of
compression. Use your
scantool to look at the oxygen
sensor outputs, coolant
temperature, airflow,
calculated engine load, and
inlet air temperature. Use the
Sensor Reference portion of this
booklet to understand if any of
those sensors have failed.
Next…

The computer uses An engine that hesitates,
stumbles or misfires when
this information to accelerating or when it is
PROBLEM #4: Engine Hesitates,
Stumbles, Lacks Normal Power
determine how much
under load is an engine that is
fuel is needed to either sucking too much air,
not getting enough fuel or
maintain the correct misfiring. If the Check Engine
Light comes on, you may find
air/fuel mixture, and
any of the following codes:
when extra fuel is
• P0171, P0174 Lean fuel
needed if the throttle condition codes
• P0120 to P0124 Throttle
suddenly opens wide.
position sensor codes
• P0222 to P0229 Throttle
position sensor codes
• P0400 to P0409 EGR
related codes
If there are no misfire codes,
a common cause of
acceleration stumble is a bad
throttle position sensor (TPS).
The TPS tells the computer
how far the throttle is open.
The computer uses this
information to determine how
much fuel is needed to
maintain the correct air/fuel
mixture and when extra fuel is
needed if the throttle suddenly
opens wide. Figure 6 shows a
properly functioning TPS.
10
Symptoms: Probable Causes:
• Engine Hesitation • Lean Fuel (P0171, P0174)
• Lacks Power • Throttle Position (P0120 or P0124) or (P0222 or P0229)
Another common cause is
dirty fuel injectors. If varnish
deposits have built up in the
tips of the injectors, they available).
won’t spray as much fuel as Throttle position sensors (TPS)
they normally do, or will typically wear in the idle and
“dribble” fuel instead of just above idle positions, but
spraying a fine mist. This they may also have dead spots
creates a lean fuel mixture and at any point in their range of
conditions that are ripe for travel. With the key on, engine
stumble and hesitation (also off, graph the sensors output
misfire). Look at short term while slowly opening the
fuel trim (STFT) and long term throttle all the way. The graph
fuel trim (LTFT) with your should look like a relatively
scantool. If the numbers are smooth ramp, with no Figure 6. Throttle Position Sensor (TPS) full range test
high, it tells you the engine is suddenly drops or flat spots.
running lean and the injectors
need cleaning. Treat mild cases
with a high quality fuel-injector
cleaner additive. Severe cases
require professional cleaning
equipment.
Other problems that cause
acceleration stumble include
vacuum leaks, low fuel pressure,
a weak spark caused by low
coil voltage or bad coil(s),
retarded ignition timing, and
contaminated gas. Look
at the following with your
scantool (as shown in figure 7): Figure 7. Mass Airflow (MAF) Graph and Fuel Trim Readings
Throttle position, mass airflow
(MAF), short term fuel trim
(STFT), long term fuel trim
(LTFT), ignition timing, and Next…
fuel pressure (if a PID is
11

Chances are the Check
What’s causing the Engine Light is not on, but you
may find any of the following
no-start? All engines codes:
PROBLEM #5: Engine Cranks
(but won’t start)
• P0230 to P0233
require three things Fuel Pump codes
• P0600 to P0606
to start and run: PCM related codes
• P0335 to P0339
spark, fuel, and
Crank Sensor codes
compression. If any • P0190 to P0194
Fuel Pressure Sensor codes
one of these isn’t
there, you aren’t • No spark due to a bad crank
position sensor, a faulty
going anywhere. ignition module or PCM, a
problem in the ignition
circuit (ignition switch, anti-
theft system, wiring, etc.),
a faulty park/neutral safety
switch, a bad ignition coil
(only on engines with a
single coil ignition), or wet
plugs or plug wires (did it
rain last night, did you just
wash the engine?).
• A less common cause is a
worn starter that draws so
many Amps while cranking
the engine that there’s not
enough juice left to
adequately power the
ignition system and fuel
injectors. Contributing
factors might be a weak
battery and/or loose or
corroded battery cables.
12
• No fuel because of a dead
fuel pump, bad fuel pump
relay, blown fuel pump fuse,
plugged fuel filter or line, or
failed PCM injector driver
circuit or injector power
supply relay. Or, the fuel
tank might be empty (don’t
believe what the gauge is
telling you), or the fuel tank
might contain contaminated
fuel (water or too much
alcohol) or the wrong type
of fuel (whoops, somebody
put in diesel instead of
gasoline).
• No compression because
the timing belt or chain is
broken, the timing belt or
chain is loose and jumped
out of time, or the overhead
camshaft has snapped.
A powerful scantool can help
isolate the root cause by
capturing this information as
in Figure 8.
The first step is to determine
if it’s a spark, fuel or
compression problem. Here’s a
quick way to find out which of
the three is missing. Remove a
plug wire, insert a Phillips
screwdriver or spare plug piece
Symptom: Engine Cranks but Won’t Start
Probable Causes:
• Fuel Pump (P0230 to P0233)
• PCM (P0600 to P0606)
• Crank Sensor (P0355 to P0399)
• Fuel Pressure (P0190 to P0194)
of bare wire into the plug wire
boot and place the end near
the engine block (do not hold
the plug wire while cranking
the engine unless you want a
shocking experience). If there’s
a spark when the engine is
cranked, it has ignition. The
problem is either fuel or
compression.
If the engine has an overhead
cam with a timing belt, loosen
the cover over the timing belt
and check the belt. If the belt
is okay, the problem is no fuel.
Listen for the electric fuel
pump in the fuel tank to make
a buzzing noise when the
ignition is turned on (you may
have to open the gas cap to
hear it). You won’t hear
anything if the pump has died.
Diagnostics can now be
focused on the fuel pump
circuit to determine if the
pump, relay or wiring is
causing the no start. If the
relay has voltage but the
pump isn’t running, you’ll
Figure 8. Typical Parameters to Monitor for Non-Start Condition
probably have to drop the fuel prevent the spark plugs from
tank to check the wiring firing. On multi-coil
connector at the pump. distributorless ignition systems
If the problem is no spark, and coil-on-plug systems, one
anything in the ignition circuit coil failure may cause an
that creates the spark may be engine to misfire, but it won't
at fault. Use your scantool to prevent it from starting.
look for an RPM signal from What’s causing the no-start?
the Crankshaft Position sensor All engines require three
while cranking the engine. A things to start and run: spark,
bad Crankshaft Position sensor fuel and compression. If any
is a common cause of no- one of these isn’t there, you
starts. The signal from this aren’t going anywhere.
sensor goes to the PCM or
ignition module that switches
the ignition coil(s) on and off.
If you have an rpm signal, a
bad ignition module or PCM
may not be switching the
coil(s) on an off. Using a
voltmeter, check for voltage at
the coils with the key on and
while cranking the engine.
The voltage should be
switching on and off.
In ignition systems with a
single coil and distributor, a
bad coil or a cracked Next…
distributor cap or rotor can
13
 PROBLEM #6:
ENGINE STALLS
(Check Engine Light may
The engine may be or may not be on)
Stalls typically occur when the
stalling because it engine is idling or slowing. If
PROBLEMS #6-7-8: Engine Stalls,
Misfire Code & Cylinder Misfire
isn’t getting enough the Check Engine Light comes
throttle opening. on, you may find any of the
following codes:
The cause is often a
• P0505 to P0509 idle control
problem in the idle circuit codes
air control system. • P0335, P0336, P0337,
P0338, P0339 crankshaft
position sensor codes
• P0171, P0174 lean fuel
condition codes
• P0400 to P0409 EGR
related codes
The engine may be stalling
because it isn’t getting enough
throttle opening. The cause is
often a problem in the idle air
control system. Other
possibilities include a dirty
throttle body, vacuum leak,
incorrect ignition timing
(retarded), bad gas (water or
other contamination), an A/C
compressor that is dragging,
or an EVAP purge valve that is
stuck open and is flooding the
engine with fuel vapor.
What to check: The throttle
body hose connections and
idle controls, also intake
vacuum (check the throttle
body, manifold and hose
connections for leaks, also the
PCV valve and hose, too).
14
With your scantool, look at
engine RPM, calculated engine
load, mass air flow rate,
throttle position angle, short
term fuel trim (STFT), and
ignition timing as shown in
Figure 9. On some vehicles,
you can also look at the idle
control motor duty cycle or
position, and/or idle tracking
sensor (if the vehicle has one).
In many instances, stalling
ends up being an idle control
motor at its limit or a failed
motor. A vacuum leak can
cause this, so don’t replace the
idle control motor until you’ve
evaluated the possibility of a
vacuum leak.
PROBLEM #7:
CHECK ENGINE LIGHT ON,
P0300 RANDOM
MISFIRE CODE
A random misfire means your
engine is misfiring, but that the
problem is not isolated to one
or two cylinders. It is jumping
around in a random way from
one cylinder to another.
A random misfire code usually
means the air/fuel mixture is
running lean. But the cause
might be anything from a
hard-to-find vacuum leak to
dirty fuel injectors, low fuel
pressure, a weak ignition coil,
bad plug wires or compression
problems. Even a dirty MAF
sensor can cause a lean code
and/or misfire to occur.
In many instances, stalling ends
up being an idle control motor
at its limit or a failed motor.
The first thing to check is the
intake vacuum with a vacuum
gauge. On most vehicles a
normal reading is 17 to 21
inches Hg. If the needle is
lower, is jumping up and
down or steadily dropping,
you have a vacuum problem.
Look for possible vacuum leaks
by checking vacuum hose
connections, the throttle body
and manifold, and PVC valve
and plumbing.
An EGR valve that is leaking
can also act like a vacuum leak
and cause a random misfire.
The next thing you should
check is the fuel pressure with
a gauge. If it is not within
specifications (refer to a service
manual for specifics because
fuel pressure is critical for
proper engine performance),
the problem may be a weak
fuel pump, low voltage to the
pump (check the relay and
wiring), or obstructions in the
fuel line (like a plugged filter).
A bad fuel pressure relay can
also leak pressure and prevent
an otherwise good fuel pump
from delivering full pressure to
the injectors.
Dirty injectors can also restrict
fuel delivery and cause a lean
Figure 9. Engine Health Download
fuel condition. Many regular compression, appropriate fuel
grades of gasoline do not mixture, or spark is missing.
contain adequate levels of Start with a visual inspection,
detergent to keep the injectors looking for a vacuum leak near
clean. Frequent short trip the cylinder and any sign of
driving accelerates the buildup wear on the spark plug wire.
of injector deposits. Cleaning Check the compression on
the injectors with a good the target cylinder to
quality fuel tank additive (or ensure that the engine is
having them professionally mechanically sound.
cleaned) can solve this Use a stethoscope to listen
problem. to the suspect cylinder’s fuel
Look at short term fuel trim injector. Listen for distinctive
(STFT) and long term fuel trim clicks and compare to
(LTFT) with you scantool or another cylinder.
scanner software. If the
numbers are high, it tells you
the engine is running lean.
PROBLEM #8:
CHECK ENGINE LIGHT ON,
P030x SPECIFIC-CYLINDER
MISFIRE CODE
One of the impressive
features of OBD II systems is
the ability to self-diagnose a
misfire and pinpoint which
cylinder has the problem. For
example, P0302 indicates a Next…
misfire on cylinder #2.
A cylinder specific misfire
indicates that either
15
 Allow the engine to cool
down for several hours before
you attempt any further
diagnosis. A hot engine can be
TEMP WARNING
very dangerous because of
LIGHT ON – Your steam pressure inside the
radiator and coolant reservoir.
engine is overheating. Do NOT attempt to add
coolant until the engine has
Stop driving
PROBLEM #9: Other Warning Light(s) On
(Check Engine Light may or may not also be on)
immediately and turn cooled down and the radiator
cap or reservoir cap can be
the engine off.
safely opened.
Overheating can be caused
Continuing to drive
by a low coolant level (check
the radiator, water pump, and
risks causing
hoses for leaks), coolant leaks
expensive engine inside the engine (leaky head
gasket or cracks in the head or
damage such as a
block), a stuck thermostat, or a
blown head gasket, cooling fan that isn't working
(bad fan clutch, fan motor or
or cracked or warped fan relay).
OIL LIGHT ON – Oil pressure is
cylinder head.
dangerously low. Stop driving
immediately and turn the
engine off. Continuing to drive
risks the rapid failure of bearings
and camshaft in your engine.
Low oil pressure or loss of oil
pressure can be caused by a low
oil level in the crankcase, a worn
or damaged oil pump, or worn
engine bearings. In older high
mileage vehicles, it is not
uncommon to see the oil
warning light flicker at idle
because of internal engine wear.
Check the oil level before
restarting the engine. If low,
check the engine for leaky
gaskets and seals, or a loose oil
filter. If no leaks are seen, the
engine may be burning oil
because of worn valve guides,
16 rings and/or cylinders. Add oil
to bring the level on the
dipstick up to the full mark,
then start the engine to see if
the light goes out.
If the light does not go out
and the engine is making
noise (ticking, rattling,
clicking, rapping sounds), it
may not be getting normal oil
pressure – or it may have
suffered damage because of
the loss of oil pressure. You’re
looking at an overhaul or
buying another engine.
CHARGING, ALT OR GEN
LIGHT ON – Your charging
system is not putting out its
normal voltage or current. This
means one of two things:
either the alternator (generator)
has died, or the belt that drives
it is slipping or has broken.
On vehicles with serpentine
belts, losing a belt means you
lose everything that the belt
drives: the water pump,
alternator, power steering
pump and A/C compressor.
The A/C compressor you can
live without, and with
sufficient upper body strength
you can still steer without the
PS pump. But your engine isn't
going to stay cool for long
without the water pump. So
stop, turn the engine off and
take a look under the hood to
see if the belt is still intact.
If the belt is still on and
appears to have normal
tension, the alternator has
probably failed. You can
probably drive your car a few
miles or up to 30 minutes or
so on the juice that’s left in the
Low oil pressure or loss of oil
pressure can be caused by a low
oil level in the crankcase, a worn
or damaged oil pump, or worn
engine bearings.
battery, but don’t count on
going too far because, without
the alternator, the battery will
run down very quickly. And
once voltage drops below a
certain level, the engine
electronics will shut down.
The fix? Check the charging
system’s output at the battery
terminals with a volt meter.
Normal charging voltage
should be about 13.5 to 14.5
volts (it varies some with
temperature and load). If you
see 12.6 volts or less (which is
base voltage for a fully
charged battery), you need to
have the alternator tested
(many parts stores can do this
for you). Or, with the ignition
in the accessory position and
the lights on, the battery
voltage should remain near 12
volts for several minutes. If
not, you have a weak battery.
ABS OR BRAKE LIGHT ON – If
the ABS light only is on, your
vehicle should still have
normal braking (possibly
without power assist, though,
depending on what type of
ABS system it has). But if the
brake light is on (with or
without the ABS light), it may
indicate a serious hydraulic
problem in your brake system.
Figure 10. Sample Virtual Dashboard
On most vehicles, the brake
warning light will come on if a
safety switch detects a
difference in pressure between
the brake circuits when the
brakes are applied. This may
indicate a leak and loss of
pressure in one of the circuits.
On some vehicles, there is
also a brake fluid level sensor
in the brake fluid reservoir on
the master brake cylinder. If
the fluid level drops, it may
turn on the warning light.
Either way, the first order of
business is to stop the vehicle
and check the fluid level in the
master cylinder. The fluid level
will drop somewhat as the
brake linings wear, but a
sudden drop in the level usually
means there’s a leak in a brake
line, hose, caliper or wheel
cylinder. Do NOT drive the
vehicle until the problem has
been diagnosed and repaired.
TURNING THE CHECK
ENGINE LAMP OFF As a rule,
the Check Engine will remain on as
long as a fault persists. If an
intermittent fault does not reoccur
after three consecutive trips, the
MIL lamp will go out but the code
will remain in memory. If the fault
does not reoccur for 40 trips, the
code will be erased. The only safe
way to clear fault codes and turn the
MIL lamp off is to use a scantool.
On many pre-OBD II vehicles, all
you had to do was disconnect the
battery or pull the PCM fuse to clear
the memory and turn the Check
Engine Light off. If the problem had
not been fixed, the Check Engine
Light would eventually come back
on. But this procedure should NOT
be used on OBD II cars for the
following reason:
WARNING: On many OBD II cars,
pulling the PCM fuse or
disconnecting the battery may
NOT clear the codes - and may
cause a loss of important
information that the PCM needs to
function correctly. On some
vehicles, loss of power to the PCM
may cause it to forget transmission
settings, climate control functions,
and other essential data. This, in
turn, may require the use of a
scantool and a special relearning
procedure to reset the PCM.
Here’s another thought: Codes
contain important diagnostic
information you or somebody else
might need to troubleshoot the
system. If the codes are cleared, it
may take some time for the codes
to reset - which will delay
diagnosing and repairing the fault.
The best approach to turning off
the light, therefore, is to read out
the codes, and clear the codes with
your scantool or scanner software.
Next…
17
 Oxygen Sensors (O2)
Purpose: Measure the
• Oxygen Sensors (O2)
amount of oxygen left in the
exhaust stream to provide
• Throttle Position feedback to the computer
Sensor (TPS) about whether the air/fuel
mixture is rich or lean.
Sensor Reference Guide
Symptoms: Poor fuel
economy, Rich fuel mixture,
• Mass Air
Check Engine Light, failed
Flow Sensor (MAF)
emissions test.
Tech Tip: Test for O2 sensors
• Engine Coolant
in front of catalytic converter
Temperature
(S1B1 and S1B2 on your
Sensor (ECT)
scantool). See figures 2 and 3.
With the engine warm,
• Intake Air graph the O2 sensor output.
Temperature Rev the engine to
Sensor (IAT) approximately 2000 RPM.
A good sensor will oscillate
from below 0.2 volts to
• Exhaust Gas above 0.8 volts, looking
Recirculation (EGR) approximately like a sine
wave. A bad sensor will be
flat-lined and show no
response to snapping the
throttle.
Test for O2 sensors behind
the catalytic converter:
Graph the rear and the front
O2 sensor output. Rev the
engine to approximately
2000 RPM. The front sensor
will be oscillating actively.
The rear sensor should show
little reaction and stay at a
midrange value
(approximately 0.5 volts). If
the sensor is flat-lined at zero
volts, it has failed. If the rear
sensor follows the oscillations
of the front sensor, the
18
Most Common Engine
Sensors understand the
purpose and failure systems
of most common sensors.
Use your scantool and tech
tip to diagram.
Figure 2 Front and Rear
Oxygen Sensors
Figure 3 Failed Bank 1
Oxygen Sensors
sensor is good but the
catalytic converter has failed.
Symptoms: Oscillating front,
midrange back.
Tech Tip: The computer
compares the front and rear
O2 sensors. A bad front O2
sensor can cause a rear sensor
DTC. Never replace any O2
sensor without testing it first.
Throttle Position
Sensor (TPS)
Purpose: Tells the computer
what the throttle position is.
Symptoms: Stumble or
hesitation on acceleration.
Test: With the key on, engine
off, graph the throttle position
sensor output. Gradually press
the accelerator to full throttle.
Figure 4. Misfires rob your
engine of performance and
fuel economy
The graph should ramp
smoothly with no spikes or
drop-outs.
Tech Tip: Most Throttle Position
Sensors wear out just off the
idle position. See figure 6.
Mass Air Flow Sensor (MAF)
Purpose: Measures how much
air is flowing into the engine.
Symptoms: Poor fuel economy.
Misfires, stumbles, hesitation.
Tech Tip: Graph the MAF
sensor voltage on your
scantool. With engine at idle, a
steady voltage should be visible
on the graph. Tap lightly on the
sensor housing. A good sensor
will not react to the vibration. If
the graph jumps, the sensor is
bad and needs to be replaced.
Next rev the engine and verify
that the graph climbs smoothly
in proportion to engine speed. A
jump or slow-reacting graph
indicates a failed or dirty sensor.
MAF related trouble codes are
often caused by a leak in the air
ducts leading to the sensor. If
the MAF sensor is fouled it can
often be cleaned with an
aerosol electronics cleaner. See
figure 4.
Figure 6. Throttle Position
Sensor (TPS) full range test
Engine Coolant
Temperature Sensor (ECT)
Purpose: Tells the computer if
the engine is warmed up.
Symptoms: Poor fuel
economy, poor performance.
Tech Tip: After sitting overnight,
the Engine Coolant Temperature
should equal the air
temperature. As the engine
warms, it will rise steadily to 200
to 230 degrees Fahrenheit. See
figure 10.
Intake Air Temperature
Sensor (IAT)
Purpose: Tells the computer
the temperature of the
incoming air used to calculate
the air density and fine-tune
the air/fuel mixture.
Symptoms: Poor economy,
stalling or rough idle
when cold.
Tech Tip: The Intake Air
Temperature Sensor will read
approximately equal to the
outdoor temperature when the
vehicle is moving. Most
common cause of trouble
codes related to the IAT are a
bad connection, or a sensor left
disconnected after servicing the
air filter. See figure 2.
Figure 10. Sample
Virtual Dashboard
Exhaust Gas Recirculation
(EGR)
Purpose: While the EGR
doesn’t typically have its own
sensor, the system is
important and a common
cause of Check Engine Light
problems. The EGR system
mixes a controlled amount of
exhaust gas with the intake
air to properly control the
combustion process.
Symptoms: Failed emissions
test, detonation (pinging)
under acceleration.
Tech Tip: If the EGR valve is
vacuum controlled, graph the
MAF and front O2 sensors.
With engine at idle, manually
open the EGR valve (do not
manually move an electrically
driven EGR valve) and watch
for reaction of the MAF
and/or O2 sensors. If there is
no reaction, the EGR
passageways or the valve
itself are likely to be clogged
and need to be cleaned.
End
19