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14974660 Bricolage Torno de Madera

14974660 Bricolage Torno de Madera

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Published by: flako58 on Jan 25, 2010
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04/26/2013

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This article is reprinted, with the permission of the author, by the Musical Instrument Makers Forum , aninteractive forum for the discussion of musical instrument construction, design and repair.
 
Building a Woodturning Lathe
by George F. Farrell, Dollmaker 
 
Page 1
 
The woodturning lathe described here and pictured above is the 4th homemade lathe that I will havebuilt. The frame should be constructed of hardwood (maple is excellent but expensive). In thesoutheastern states of the US, southern yellow pine is an excellent substitute. Pressure treated lumber isusually southern yellow pine, but is not recommended unless it is carefully chosen to be clear and knotfree, quarter-sawn and with no heartwood. The primary reason for choosing something else is that whenpurchased it is usually saturated with water, so if you decide to use it, it should be stored in a warm dryplace long enough to dry out. It is the cheapest solution, and the drying time can be substantially reducedif you use one inch boards. Birch plywood is an expensive alternative but has the advantage of being verystable and already dry, and certainly much easier to use than solid timber of the required size withrespect to the mortise and tenon joints.
Compiled by webtoad 
 
 
The pedestals P1, P2 & P3 in the construction diagram above are all the same physical size. Theconstruction details differ only with the height of the upright and with the brace of P3. The braces, asdrawn, are made with two 2X6's (or four 1X6's) notched on the faces as shown in detail "A" to accept thetenon of the feet. The upright for P3 is shorter than the others and has a triangular mortise (detail "C")formed just under the ways to the brace "d". The upright pieces can then be glued together. The edgesshould be planed to true and square with the sides, notched for the ways at the top ("a" in the diagramshowing the construction of the frame). The feet are made of two 2X6's (or four 1X6's). The foot for P3has a triangular mortise for the brace as shown in detail "B". The triangular mortises of P3 in theupright and its foot are intended to take a brace which will be at an angle of 45 degrees to the upright andto its foot. All of the feet can be glued up and a tenon formed on one end to fit the mortise of the legs.Glue each upright and its foot together making sure the upright and foot are square. Note that the braceof P3 must be inserted during the glue up process (it cannot be left till later). After glue up, bore two 3/8Dholes in each joint and drive in a dowel with glue. The brace for the headstock pair P1 & P2 is a 4X4mounted at a 45 degree angle and below the bottom of the ways just as for P3. It is important that thisbrace and the one for P3 be aligned even if it becomes necessary to make this brace over long so that theexcess can be cut off later. The braces will support a 2X4 running from P1 & P2 to P3 to providelongitudinal support and which will also double as a support for a hinged motor mount. Anotherlongitudinal member (also a 2X4) should be mounted on top of the feet immediately behind the uprights.
Compiled by webtoad 
 
 
When the glue has dried, the ways can be cut to length and fitted into the notches at "a". They should bea snug fit. They should be lag bolted into place without glue. The second of the two longitudinal membersmentioned above should now be lag-bolted in place (also without glue). The longitudinal member whichwill be the motor mount should be deferred until later.
Building a Woodturning Lathe
by George F. Farrell, Dollmaker 
 
Page 2
 
Once the frame has been assembled, it is time to mount the headstock spindle:For the headstock spindle I chose a one-foot length of 3/4D cold rolled steel. It was taken to a localmachine shop and threaded for 1.5 inches along one end to 3/4X16 National Fine. This was chosenbecause a search of the mail order catalogs gave (still does) the following information:1.
 
Self-centering chucks -- AMT, Woodcraft and Penn State Industries.2.
 
Headstock drill chuck to take 1/2D drills -- Penn State Ind.3.
 
Face Plates -- AMT, Penn State Ind.4.
 
Screw chucks -- Penn State Ind.5.
 
I could not find a commercially made spur drive center. The Luna chuck (Woodcraft and PennState Ind.) has a wide range of accessories, one of which is a spur drive center to fit their chuck.The alternative is having one made by a local machine shop.6.
 
A 3/4X16 National Fine thread nut will also be required to assist in getting the tools on and off.This item can be found at local hardware outlets.7.
 
Pillow blocks for 3/4D -- Woodworker's SupplyThe axis of this spindle must be parallel with the ways -- not only vertically but horizontally as well.Failure in this respect will cause whatever is turned to come out elliptical instead of round. The mountingtabs of the pillow blocks have slotted holes allowing lateral adjustment. Vertical adjustment can beaccomplished with fender washers under the appropriate pillow block. This works for a coarseadjustment. Finer adjustment means using a thinner material as a shim. Tin-can material, precut to sizeand stacked between boards, will allow drilling the mounting holes without tearing. Tin-can metal isabout 0.012 inches thick; bear and soda pop cans are about 0.005 inches thick; household aluminum foilis about 0.001 inches thick. These should be enough thicknesses of shim to test the patience of even themost persistent and diligent.The best way to test and adjust for runout is to mount the pillow blocks using hanger bolts. Hanger boltsare threaded on one end like lag bolts and threaded on the other end like machine bolts. When buying the3/4D cold rolled steel shafting for the headstock spindle, it would be best to buy an additional 3 footlength of it. When mounted in the pillow blocks in place of the spindle, it will project out over the ways byabout 2 feet. This fact multiplies alignment errors by about 3 making it easier to find a runout error. A
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