Keeping The Heat in

Keeping the
Heat In
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on energy efficiency, please contact
Energy Publications
Office of Energy Efficiency
Natural Resources Canada
c/o St. Joseph Communications
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1165 Kenaston Street
PO Box 9809 Station T
Ottawa ON K1G 6S1
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Revised March 2007
Cat. No. M144-41/2007E (Print)

ISBN 978-0-662-45915-6
Cat. No. M144-41/2007E-PDF (On-line)
ISBN 978-0-662-45500-4
© Her Majesty the Queen in Right of Canada, 2007
Aussi disponible en français sous le titre : Emprisonnons la chaleur

Keeping the Heat In
Contents
INTRODUCTION. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 2
CHAPTER 1 How Your House Works . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 6
PART l The Basics. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 7
PART II Control of Heat Flow . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 11
PART III Control of Airflow . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 14
PART IV Control of Moisture Flow . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 18
PART V The House as a System in Action . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 21
PART VI Older Homes and Heritage Buildings . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 22
CHAPTER 2 Materials . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 24
PART I Insulation . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 25
PART II Air-Barrier Materials . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 32
PART III Vapour-Barrier Materials . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 39
PART IV Health and Safety Considerations . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 40
PART V Special Health Considerations . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 43
CHAPTER 3 Comprehensive Air-Leakage Control . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 44
PART I Finding Leakage Areas. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 46
PART II Caulking and Other Air-Sealing Materials . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 48
CHAPTER 4 Roofs and Attics . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 54
PART I General Considerations for All Attics . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 55
PART II Easily Accessible Attics. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 59
PART III Houses with Half Storeys. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 64
PART IV Special Cases. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 67
PART V Renovations and Repair. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 70
CHAPTER 5 Basement Insulation . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 74
PART I How to Insulate Outside the Basement . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 79
PART II How to Insulate Inside the Basement. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 84
PART III Crawl Spaces . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 90
PART IV Open Foundations . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 92
PART V Concrete Slab on the Ground . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 93
CHAPTER 6 Insulating Walls . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 94
PART I Blown-In Insulation . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 96
PART II Renovating the Interior . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 98
PART III Renovating the Exterior. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 100
PART IV Miscellaneous Spaces. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 103
PART V Additions and New Construction . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 105
CHAPTER 7 Upgrading Windows and Doors . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 106
PART I Windows . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 107
PART II Doors . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 112
CHAPTER 8 Operating Your House . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 114
PART I Operating and Maintaining the Heating System . . . . . . . . . 115
PART II The Heating System and Ventilation and Combustion Air . . 118
PART III Other Features . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 122
CHAPTER 9 Dollars and Sense . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 124
Index . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 130
Need More Information?. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 132
Keeping the Heat In
Introduction
How Your House Works Materials Air-Leakage Control Roofs and Attics
Chapter 1 Chapter 2 Chapter 3 Chapter 4
What Is Retrofitting?
Retrofitting a house is simply upgrading
it so that it will keep the heat in. This
means adding insulation, caulking and
weatherstripping, improving or replac-
ing windows and doors, and improving
the heating system. Retrofitting also
means including energy-efficiency mea-
sures in all your renovation and repair
activities. In our climate, retrofitting
usually makes a lot of sense.
About This Book

This book tells you how to go about
retrofitting your home. It deals with
houses of all kinds in all parts of Canada.
It does not deal with apartment or com-
mercial buildings, although some of the
information presented here may be useful.
This book is designed to serve both the
experienced do-it-yourselfer and the
novice willing to give it a try. It is also a
useful consumer guide for homeowners
who intend to hire a contractor to
undertake retrofit work.
If you rent, this book offers many low-
cost measures that will save you money
and make your house more comfortable.
Be sure to read Chapters 3, 7 and 8,
which look at air sealing, windows and
doors, and how to operate your house.
2
Keeping the Heat In • Introduction
Basement Insulation Insulating Walls Windows and Doors Operating Your House Dollars and Sense
Chapter 5 Chapter 6 Chapter 7 Chapter 8 Chapter 9
You may want to make up a list of Save Money Although each house is unique, some
recommended measures and approach Improving your home’s energy efficiency general statements can still be made
the landlord with your suggestions. If is one of the best investments you can about retrofit opportunities.
the landlord pays the heating bill, the make, paying tax-free dividends imme- • Virtually all houses will benefit from
benefits are obvious. If you pay the heat- diately in the form of lower heating air-leakage control. Weatherstripping
ing bill, the landlord will have a happy costs. Home insulation is better than and sealants will stop drafts, save
tenant and a more valuable house. just about any other low-risk, long-term money, improve comfort and protect
Why Retrofit? investment you can make. the structure. See Chapters 3 and 7
Energy Efficiency All this aside, the investment is still a for details. You should also consider
good one since it is an investment in moisture control and ventilation to
Perhaps most important, retrofitting a
the conservation of our valuable energy reduce the chance of condensation
home costs less than producing new
supplies, and this means we all benefit problems.
energy supplies to heat it. Fully 15 per-
cent of Canada’s annual energy use is to from environmental conservation. • Many houses will benefit from a
heat our homes, and this energy comes complete heating-system tune-up.
mostly from non-renewable resources Retrofit Opportunities This should analyse and correct any
such as oil and gas. problems with the furnace or boiler,
What retrofit strategies are best for you?
the distribution system and the
Comfort You will have to determine what shape
controls. Upgrading or replacing the
A well-insulated, air-sealed house is a your house is in and what can be done
unit with a high-efficiency model
comfortable home. An insulated, tighter to improve it.
will provide substantial savings. See
house is also a much quieter house, Check the interior and exterior for signs Chapter 8 for a summary.
and there is less dust and pollen to of moisture damage and structural prob-
worry about. • Insulate a poorly insulated attic. If
lems, maintenance and repair needs,
there is less than 150 mm (6 in.)
A Sound House renovation opportunities, the level and
of insulation in the attic, it will be
condition of insulation, and air-leakage
By considering energy efficiency as part worthwhile putting more in. It is
paths. Some utilities offer an audit
of your home’s maintenance and repair, important to provide a good air seal
service to help you assess your needs;
your house will be in better shape. And first. See Chapter 4 for details.
call your local utility to see if this service
by improving your home’s air and mois-
is available. Some contractors also offer • Insulate an empty frame wall. If there
ture control, your retrofit work should
assessments; check your local Yellow is no insulation in a frame wall, it is
last longer and look better.
Pages™ directory. worthwhile blowing in insulation to
fill the cavity. See Chapter 6 for details.
3
• Insulate the basement. Basements How to Use This Book There are many forces at work in a
are areas of significant heat loss in Every homeowner should read Chapters house: structural loading, the effects of
most houses. If the insulating can be 1, 2 and 8. This will provide important wind and weather, and flows of mois-
combined with damp-proofing on background information on retrofit ture, heat and air. These must be kept in
the exterior or finishing the inside, it techniques and materials. Read other the right balance. Adding insulation, air
will be doubly worthwhile. See chapters as required for specific details. barriers and vapour barriers can affect
Chapter 5 for details. Why not skim through each chapter to moisture conditions, ventilation and
see what might be right for your house combustion air. Chapter 1 discusses
• Make the most of repair and reno-
and renovation plans? Remember, this in detail and should be read by all
vation work. Almost all repairs and
improving the energy efficiency of your homeowners.
renovations you do around the house
can have an energy-efficient com- house is an ongoing process – it is
ponent piggybacked onto the work. accomplished bit by bit as you work on
You will find useful ideas throughout your house over the years. Keep this
this book. book as a handy reference.
• Other opportunities for retrofit may

be right for you. If you think that any Some Important Things to Keep
part of your house can be made more in Mind
energy efficient, consult the relevant House as a System
chapter in this book for details.
Experts at Natural Resources Canada
Chapter 8 has many good sugges-
have gained a lot of experience with
tions for other ways to save energy
retrofit work over the last three decades.
around the home.
One of the most important lessons is
that a house works as a system. Each
part of the house is related to all other
parts, and making a change in one place
causes an effect elsewhere.
4
Do It Yourself or Hire a Contractor

Much retrofit work can be done by the
do-it-yourselfer with a few special tools
and the right materials. The cost savings
and job satisfaction can both be high.
If you take the trouble to do the job
properly, the results should be excellent.
Make sure you consult this book care-
fully. It is designed to meet the needs of
The house as a system: both the experienced and inexperienced
air, moisture and heat flows all interact. do-it-yourselfer.
Some types of retrofit are best done by a
Health and Safety Codes and Standards contractor with specialized equipment
Approach any work around the house Materials specifications, installation pro- and experience, or you may just prefer
with your health and safety in mind. cedures and construction techniques are to have someone do the work for you.
Most health and safety rules amount to normally spelled out in codes and stan- You are far more likely to have excellent
using common sense around ladders dards or in the manufacturers’ literature. work done if you choose a contractor
and tools, and when working in Typically, these concentrate on health carefully and take an active interest in
cramped and stuffy conditions such and safety issues, such as ventilation and the work. The more you know, the
as in attics. Also, insulation and sealing fire-safety requirements. Each province better. This is especially important if
materials must be handled and installed or territory and most municipalities you are hiring a contractor to undertake
with care. Chapter 2 describes some have jurisdiction over their respective general renovations and you want to
general health and safety considerations. building codes. The information in this include energy efficiency as part of
Chapters 4 to 7 describe measures that book, written for readers across Canada, the work.
are specific to working in different areas is general in nature. Local codes should
of the house. be followed. Check with your local
municipal office and building inspector.
5
1How Your House Works
Keeping the Heat In
The Basics
Part I
INTRODUCTION
It is important to understand how your
house works before starting any retrofit
work. This will ensure that the job will
meet your expectations and that you
won’t be causing new problems while
solving old ones.
This chapter will describe the basic
building science that is important for
successful retrofit work. It will explain
how building-science principles are used
successfully to control the flow of heat,
air and moisture and why these should
be considered together.
6
Keeping the Heat In 1 How Your House Works
Control of Heat Flow Control of Airflow Control of The House as a Older Homes and
Part II Part III Moisture Flow System in Action Heritage Buildings
Part IV Part V Part VI
comfortable controlled indoor environ-

PART 1 ment from the weather outside.
THE BASICS
To maintain our indoor environment,
House Performance the envelope must control the flow of
We expect our homes heat, air and moisture from the inside of
to provide shelter from the home to the outdoors.
the sun, rain, wind and
snow, and we expect them
The Envelope and Heat Flow
to keep us warm and comfortable.
We also expect that they will be sturdy As part of the controlled indoor environ-
and durable. ment, we add a heating system to over-
come the cold Canadian winters. We try
A number of factors work together to to build our homes so that we don’t heat Heat moves out of the house in
meet these needs. These include the the Great Canadian Outdoors. We try to all directions.
building shell, the outside environment, keep the heat in!
the mechanical system and ourselves,
the occupants. This book is mainly But heat will move wherever there is a
How Does Heat Flow?
about improving the performance of the difference in temperature. Basically,
house envelope. heat flows from areas of warmth to Heat flows in three distinct ways. In a
areas of cold. part of the house envelope, such as a
wall, heat can be moving in one, two or
The Building Envelope Many people believe that because hot
three ways at the same time.
air rises, most heat loss will be through
The building envelope is the shell of
the ceiling. This is not necessarily so. n Conduction. Heat can be transferred
the house that protects us from the
Heat moves in any direction – up, directly from one part of an object to
elements; it comprises the basement
down or sideways – as long as it is mov- another part by the particles bumping
walls and floor, the above-grade walls,
ing from a warm spot to a colder one. A into each other. For example, the heat
the roof and the windows and doors.
heated room over an unheated garage from a cast iron frying pan is trans-
We expect a lot from the envelope: it will lose heat through the floor. ferred to the handle and eventually
must provide structural support for the Similarly, heat loss can occur through to your hand. Some materials con-
walls and roof, protect the structure walls in the basement or crawl space, as duct heat better than others, depend-
from deterioration, allow for natural well as above the ground. Heat moves to ing on the structure of the material.
lighting of the interior and serve as a the cold. It’s the envelope’s job to control Insulation works by reducing heat
means of getting in and out. Finally, the the flow of heat between the indoors flow with tiny pockets of air, which
envelope must separate our warm and and outdoors. are relatively poor conductors of heat.
7
Conduction Convection Radiation
Heat can move by conduction, convection and radiation.
n Convection. Heat can also be trans- Under winter conditions, air is forced n Stack Effect. In a heated home,
ferred by the movement of a fluid through the building envelope. Air mov- the less dense warm air rises and
such as water or air. In an uninsu- ing out carries heat and moisture, while expands, creating a higher-pressure
lated wall space, for instance, air air moving in brings uncomfortable area near the top of the house. Air
picks up heat from the warm wall drafts and dry winter air. escapes through holes in the ceiling
and then circulates to the cold wall and cracks around upper-storey
For air to move from one side to the
where it loses the heat. Some heat is windows. The force of the rising
other, there must be a hole in the enve-
also transferred by the mixing of air creates lower pressure near the
lope and a difference in air pressure
warm and cold air. bottom of the house, and outside air
between the inside and outside. The dif-
rushes in through cracks and open-
n Radiation. Any object will radiate ference in air pressure can be caused by
ings around the lower floors.
heat in the same way that the sun any combination of:
radiates heat. When you stand in n Combustion and Ventilation Effect.
• wind;
front of a cold window, you radiate Appliances that burn fuels such as
heat to the window and so you feel • a temperature difference creating a wood, oil or natural gas need air to
cold, even though the room tempera- “stack effect” in the home; and support combustion and provide the
ture may be high. draft in the chimney. Open chimneys
• combustion appliances or exhaust
and fireplaces tend to exhaust lots of
fans.
air. This air must be replaced, and
The Envelope and Airflow
n Wind Effect. When wind blows outside air will be drawn in through
Uncontrolled airflow through the enve- against the house, it creates a high- the envelope. This is why people often
lope can be a major source of heat loss pressure area on the windward side, notice that the room becomes drafty
and can lead to other problems. Since and air is forced into the house. when there’s a fire in the fireplace.
warm air can carry large amounts of There is a low-pressure area on the
water vapour, airflow is also the main Ventilation fans in the kitchen and bath-
leeward side (and sometimes other
means by which moisture is carried into room, central vacuum systems, stove-
sides) where air is forced out.
the envelope. top grills, clothes dryers and other
exhaust fans also cause this effect.
8
Wind effect Stack effect Combustion and ventilation effect
The Envelope and Moisture n Gravity. Water running down a roof n Air Movement. As water vapour,
Moisture can cause concrete to crumble, or condensation running down a moisture is carried by moving air, for
wood to rot and paint to peel; it can window pane shows how gravity example, where there is air leakage
also damage plaster and ruin carpets. causes water to move downward. through a crack in the house envelope.
In its many forms, moisture is a n Capillary Action. Water can also Far more moisture can be carried by
major cause of damage to building move sideways or upward by capillary airflow through a small hole in the
components. action. Capillary action depends on envelope than by diffusion through the
Moisture can appear in the form of a the presence of very narrow spaces, as building materials.
solid, a liquid or a gas (water vapour). with lapped siding or porous materi-
Moisture can originate from outside as als such as concrete or soil (think of
Condensation
ground water in the soil or as ice, snow, how a paper towel absorbs water).
Water vapour becomes a problem when
rain, fog and surface run-off, or from n Diffusion. Water vapour can also it condenses into liquid water. This
inside in the form of water vapour pro- move directly through materials by happens at the point of 100 percent
duced by the house occupants and their diffusion. Diffusion depends on a relative humidity, when the air cannot
activities, such as washing, cleaning, difference in water-vapour pressure hold more water vapour.
cooking and using humidifiers. and the material’s resistance to this
pressure. A typical example is condensation on
In its different forms, moisture can
windows. When the air contacts the
move through the envelope in a number
cold window it loses heat. Since the air
of ways.
has become cooler, it can no longer
hold all the water vapour, and some
condenses out onto the surface of
the window.
9
One small air leak can let through 100 times as much
moisture as will travel by diffusion over a much larger area. Condensation occurs when moist air meets a cool surface.
If the window is extremely cold, the con- affects the performance of the house as a Before beginning any retrofit work, it’s a
densation will appear as frost. Because whole. Understanding these relation- good idea to review what’s involved and
the interior surface of a single-glazed ships is the secret to avoiding problems. to understand which other aspects of
window is colder than that of a double- the house may be affected. Thinking
For example, reducing air leakage
glazed window, a single-glazed window is things through and careful planning in
makes the house more comfortable and
more likely to have problems with con- the early stages of work will prevent
protects the envelope from moisture
densation or frost buildup, even under unpleasant surprises and ensure that the
damage. But it will also increase humi-
conditions of lower humidity. work meets your expectations.
dity levels since less water vapour
Condensation is more likely to occur in
escapes. This can mean an increase of Further information on the effect that
humid areas of the house such as the
condensation on windows. retrofit work has on the house as a sys-
kitchen and bathroom.
tem is included in the balance of this
The lesson here is that a change to one
chapter and in Chapters 3 and 8. If you
component of the house can have an
The House as a System have any questions, talk to an expert or
immediate effect on another compo-
Although this book concentrates on a contractor who is familiar with the prin-
nent. The combined effect of many
improvements to the house envelope, it’s ciples of how a house works as a system.
small changes over time can also affect
important to remember that the house the balance of the system.
operates as a system. All the elements of
a house, the environment, envelope,
mechanical systems and occupant
activities affect each other, and the result
10
Metric Conversion
Uninsulated wall Insulated wall
to obtain multiply by
RSI value overall R-value overall 0.1761
RSI/mm 1 R/in. 0.00693
Nominal RSI Value Nominal R-Value

0.7 4
0.9 5
1.4 8
2.1 12
3.5 20
4.9 28
7.0 40
8.8 50
Insulation works by trapping small pockets of air. 10.6 60
divides the air space into many small

PART II pockets of still air; this inhibits heat Measuring Up
CONTROL OF transfer by convection. At the same Throughout this book, we have used metric
HEAT FLOW time, the insulation material reduces measurements and values and given the
radiation across the space. imperial equivalent in parentheses, e.g., RSI
What Does 3.5 (R-20). We have used certain measure-
Insulation Do? ments as expressions, for example, a
Insulation is like a giant What Is the Insulation Value? 38 mm x 89 mm stud is what we commonly
sleeping bag. It wraps Years ago when the choice of insulation know as a 2 x 4. In these cases, we have
the house in a layer of was limited, the measure of the effec- chosen not to include the unit of measure-
material that slows the rate at which tiveness was its thickness. Products have ment. Imperial equivalents are included
heat is lost to the great outdoors. changed and that rule of thumb can no because most retrofit projects take place in
longer be applied. houses that were built using this system of
Remember that heat always flows from
measurement.
warm to cold, and it moves in three Insulation is now manufactured and
ways: by conduction, convection or sold by its thermal resistance value
radiation. (called the “RSI” value) – a precise One brand of insulation may be thicker
measurement of the insulation’s or thinner than another, but if they both
Still air does not conduct heat well and have the same RSI value, they will con-
resistance to heat flow. The higher
is a relatively good insulator. However, trol heat flow equally well. Chapter 2
the resistance value, the slower the
in large spaces such as wall cavities, heat describes insulation materials and their
rate of heat transfer through the
can still be lost across the air space by RSI values.
insulating material.
convection and radiation. Insulation
11
Some insulation materials are marked • It is also important to install the

with both RSI and R-values. RSI values appropriate thickness of insulation for
indicate thermal resistance in metric the size of the space and, when using
terms (Resistance Système International), loose fill, at the proper density.
and R-values represent imperial mea- Wood studs provide a thermal
surements. Be careful not to confuse bridge and gaps in the insulation
How Much Insulation? allow convection currents.
the two.
Your choice of how much insulation to
For insulation to work properly, it must add will depend on many factors:
be installed properly. Chapters 4, 5 and The thermal resistance values listed in
6 describe how to install insulation in • Local housing codes may specify the code are more accurate than the
attics, basements and walls. There are minimum levels of insulation that ones listed in the table at right because
some common guidelines, however, that should be added when upgrading. they take into account the type of fram-
apply wherever insulation is installed. • How much insulation is already in ing and heat loss through the framing
the house will partly determine how materials. You can also obtain informa-
• The insulation must fill the space
much you need to add. tion about the recommended minimum
completely and evenly. Any blank
levels of insulation that correspond to
spots or corners will allow convection • How the house is built will deter- your home’s method of construction,
to occur, sometimes allowing the heat mine how much insulation may be region and heating fuel type. Write to:
to bypass the insulation completely. practically added.
Natural Resources Canada
• Wherever possible, avoid thermal • Other work you are doing together Housing and Equipment Division
bridges. As the name suggests, a ther- with the re-insulating may make it 580 Booth Street, 18th Floor
mal bridge is any solid material that practical to add higher levels of insula- Ottawa ON K1A 0E4
directly connects the warm side of tion. Fax: 613-996-3764
the envelope to the cold side (e.g., a
The table on the right is a good guide- Web site: ecoaction.gc.ca
wall stud). Steel studs, for example,
are very conductive and can reduce line to follow to determine insulation
the effective wall insulation by 50 levels for different areas of a house. To
percent. When insulation is installed help you make your decision, you may
on one side of the thermal bridge, it wish to compare your plans with the
acts like a roadblock, reducing heat Model National Energy Code for Houses
flow. for your province or territory.
12
Degree-Day (DD) Zones

up to 3500 DD
3500 – 5000 DD
5000 – 6500 DD
over 6500 DD
Note: Each zone on the map represents an area that experiences a similar number of
degree-days. Degree-days are a measure of heating demand based on the difference
between the average daily outdoor temperature and 18°C (65°F). Cumulative totals for the
month or heating season are used to estimate heating energy needs.
Zone A B C D
Walls RSI 3.0 3.6 4.1 5.3

R 17.0 20.0 23.0 30.0
Basement RSI 3.0 3.0 3.0 3.0

Walls R 17.0 17.0 17.0 17.0
Roof or RSI 4.5 5.6 6.7 9.0

Ceiling R 26.0 32.0 38.0 51.0
Floor (over RSI 4.7 4.7 6.7 9.0

unheated R 27.0 27.0 38.0 51.0
spaces)
13
The important point is that these

PART III activities must always be done together.
CONTROL Halfway measures will not do.
OF AIRFLOW
Why Control Air-Leakage Control:
Airflow? Wind Barriers, Air Barriers and
Air Sealing
Controlling airflow
provides many benefits: To be effective, insulation must trap
still air. It must be protected from wind Wind Air
• greater energy and dollar savings; blowing through from the outside and barrier barrier
from air escaping from the inside of
• a more comfortable home without
the home.
cold spots and drafts; The air barrier can be installed at any
The wind barrier is located on the out- location in the envelope; it may even be
• protection of the building materials
side of the envelope to protect the insu- combined with the wind barrier. It’s
from moisture damage;
lation from the circulation of outside air. usually installed on the inside of the
• improved comfort, health and safety: Standard building materials such as envelope where it is kept warm. This
stale odours and stuffiness are elimi- exterior sheathing and building paper protects the material from temperature
nated, and a safe supply of air for or new sheet materials such as house- extremes that can affect its durability.
combustion appliances is assured; and wraps act as the exterior wind barrier. When installed on the warm side, the
• a cleaner and quieter home. The air barrier blocks airflow from the air barrier is often combined with the
inside to the outside. By doing this, it vapour barrier. (See the section on
Controlling airflow involves three vapour barriers on page 20.) If located
serves the following two important
relatively simple activities: on the inside, the air barrier will also
functions:
• preventing uncontrolled air leakage prevent convective heat loss when air
• It reduces heat loss by preventing air circulates from the house into the
through the building envelope;
from passing in and out through the wall space.
• providing for fresh-air supply and the envelope.
exhaust of stale air; and
• It protects the insulation and struc-
• providing draft and combustion air ture from moisture damage caused
for fuel-burning appliances. when water vapour condenses in the
envelope assembly.
14
The air barrier is a To make sure that you’ve accounted for a continuous air barrier, make a sketch of the wall, attic or
system that joins foundation that you plan to retrofit. Then take a coloured pencil and trace a line through all the air
many different barrier components on the sketch without lifting the pencil from the paper.
building
components.
different components that are sealed to the control of airflow. The other essen-
each other. Typical components of the tial steps are providing ventilation air
air-barrier system are described below. and air for combustion in a controlled
manner. These steps may be necessary
• Polyethylene, drywall or plaster are
in houses where extensive retrofit and
used for large surfaces such as walls
renovation work has been done, where
and ceilings.
the house is heated with a reduced flue-
• Windows, doors, hatches, vent action heating system (e.g., electricity or
dampers and any components that a high-efficiency gas system) or where
close an opening in the envelope also there are special ventilation needs. It is a
form part of the air barrier. good idea to take a systematic look at
the moisture balance and ventilation
• In some cases, even structural parts
needs of your house.
of the building, such as the sill
To be effective, the air barrier must be
plate or rim joist, form part of the
the following:
air-barrier system. Providing Controlled Ventilation
• resistant to air movement; Years ago, homes were ventilated by
• Caulking, gaskets and weatherstrip-
• rigid and strong enough to withstand ping are used to seal the joints between opening windows and doors and by
air-pressure differences; the components to ensure that the uncontrolled air movement, but this
air-barrier system is continuous. method was not always comfortable or
• durable; and effective. In cold, windy weather, too
• continuous, by sealing all seams, much air could be drawn into the
How Tight an Air Barrier? house, causing high fuel bills and
edges, gaps, holes or tears.
For an air barrier to work, it must be uncomfortable drafts. Often, in spring
Because of the many components that continuous and well sealed. and fall, not enough fresh air would be
make up the house envelope, including supplied.
walls, foundations, doors and windows, But if the air barrier is tight, how will
it’s impossible for any one material to fresh air get into the house? First, most With uncontrolled airflow stopped by
surround the house completely and older houses are so loosely built that, an air-barrier system, it is now possible
form the air barrier. The air barrier is even after extensive air-leakage-control to provide comfortable, effective ventila-
actually a system made up of many work, enough air will still come in to tion year-round.
provide ventilation. Second, remember
that the air barrier is just the first step in
15
A system for controlled ventilation con-

sists of four basic parts:
• a means of exhausting stale air and
excess water vapour;
• a means of supplying fresh air;
• a way of distributing the fresh air
throughout the house; and
• controls for operating the ventilation
system.
Many homes already have parts of a Houses can have many ways of providing ventilation:
1) bathroom fan 5) duct to return-air plenum
complete ventilation system; it’s just a
2) open window 6) central ventilation system
matter of putting it all together and 3) kitchen fan 7) holes in the envelope
adding the missing components. 4) exhaust or supply fan
The exhaust function can be provided
by kitchen and bathroom fans; these are In homes with individual room heaters, Controls are usually connected to the
already located conveniently in areas of fresh air can be provided by installing a exhaust side of the system; the supply
high humidity. Clothes dryers should central supply with a duct to each room side responds passively to replace the
also be vented outdoors. and a fan to move the air. This system is amount of air exhausted. One control
Fresh air supply can be arranged for easiest to install in bungalows. In colder method uses humidity as an indicator of
homes with a forced-air heating system regions, the incoming air may need to how much air needs to be exhausted.
by installing an outside duct connected be tempered or preheated. There is usually an automatic setting on
to the forced-air system. Air is distributed the exhaust fan for routine operation,
by running the furnace fan on low speed, with a manual override for cooking,
even when the furnace is not heating. showers or times when there are more
people in the house.
16
Providing Air for Combustion

Appliances
A combustion appliance is any device
that burns fuel; furnaces, fireplaces,
woodstoves, gas stoves, gas water heaters
and gas dryers are all combustion appli-
ances. Combustion appliances require
air to burn the fuel and to provide draft
for the appliance’s chimney.
Older homes without a tight air barrier
typically provide plenty of air combus-
Fuel-burning appliances and exhausting appliances all need make-up air.
tion and draft control through cracks
and holes in the building envelope.
How Much Ventilation? houses still allow considerable airflow Tighter houses and houses in which
through the envelope. Humidity levels fans, exhaust appliances and fireplaces
Recognizing that homes are now built may be competing for air can experience
and the appearance of condensation can
with tighter air barriers, the National insufficient draft and even backdrafts.
provide a rule of thumb for judging ven-
Building Code of Canada now requires This can be a serious safety considera-
tilation needs. Generally, if there is only
that new homes include a mechanical tion where the draft in the chimney can
occasional or a small mist of condensa-
ventilation system with a minimum be reversed, and dangerous combustion
tion on double-glazed windows on the
exhaust capacity of one third of an air gases can spill back into the house.
coldest days, then sufficient ventilation
change per hour. This means that one
is present. Of course, houses where there As part of any air-leakage-control pro-
third of the total volume of air in the
is little moisture generated but in which gram, it’s important to ensure that each
home is replaced by outside air every
there are pollutants due to hobbies, combustion appliance has enough air to
hour.
smokers, etc., will require more ventila- work properly. Chapter 8 provides more
Not every home where retrofit work has tion. The tightness of the air-barrier sys- detail on combustion-air strategies.
been done will need this much mecha- tem can be assessed using a fan test.
nical ventilation capacity. Even after (See Chapter 8 for more information on
extensive air-sealing work, most older ventilation strategies.)
17
Quantity of Moisture Added to the Air Through Various Household Activities

Activity (for a family of four) Moisture
(litres per week)
Cooking – three meals daily for one week 6.3
Dishwashing – three times daily for one week 3.2
Bathing – 0.2 litres per shower
– 0.05 litres per bath 2.4
Clothes washing (per week) 1.8
Clothes drying indoors or using an unvented dryer (per week) 10.0
PART IV Floor mopping per 9.3 m2 (100 sq. ft.) 1.3
CONTROL OF Normal respiration and skin evaporation from occupants 38.0
MOISTURE FLOW Total moisture production per week 63.0
Why Control
Moisture Flow?
Where does all the moisture come from? Cold outdoor air cannot carry much
Control of moisture in
There are a number of major sources water vapour. In older homes, uncon-
all its forms is important
that are not always obvious: trolled airflow brings colder, drier air
in order to make our homes
indoors and forces the warm, moist
durable and comfortable. Building com- • occupants and their activities;
household air out through openings in
ponents and practices such as flashing,
• wind-blown rain in walls; the upper walls and attic. The air
roofing and basement damp-proofing
quickly escapes through the uninsulated
successfully protect the home from • damp basements; and
envelope without cooling down enough
liquid water.
• moisture that is stored in building to cause condensation.
It is equally important to control the materials and furnishings.
When insulation is added, the building
movement of water vapour, providing
An average family of four will generate exterior becomes much colder. Unless
added protection for the house structure
about 63 litres (20 gallons) of water a additional protection is provided, water
and helping to maintain indoor humi-
week through normal household activi- can condense in the building structure.
dity at a comfortable level.
ties. Where basement damp-proofing is
How? Remember that cold air is able to
Controlling moisture involves the inadequate, ground water in the soil can
hold much less moisture than warm air.
following three strategies: migrate through the foundation by
As the warm, moist air cools in the cold
capillary action and evaporate on the
• construction techniques that keep outer layers of the building, the water
surface of the wall or floor. Finally, dur-
moisture away from the structure; vapour it holds may condense as liquid
ing damp, humid weather, the building
or, if it is cold enough, as frost. This can
• producing less moisture; and materials and furnishings will absorb
reduce the effectiveness of insulation
moisture from the air, and then expel it
• exhausting excess moisture. and even cause rot, peeling paint,
during the heating season.
buckled siding, mould growth and
Despite all this water produced each other problems.
Sources of Moisture in the Home
day, most older houses have “dry” air in
Even some houses that are apparently winter to the point where they have to
dry, with no leaks in the basement or have humidifiers installed. Why?
roof, can have moisture problems.
18
Water vapour condenses as either

liquid water or frost when it
reaches the dew point.
How Much Humidity?

Humidity levels above 20 percent help
prevent dry, sore throats and should
make the air feel warmer and more
comfortable. Moist air will also elimi-
nate static electricity in the house and
help to protect plants and preserve
your furniture.
On the other hand, humidity levels over
40 percent can cause frosting and fog-
ging of windows, staining of walls and
ceilings, peeling paint, mould growth
and odours. When relative humidity is
over 50 percent, airborne diseases
become more difficult to control.
The building envelope must shed water from the roof to the footings.
Condensation on your windows can
provide a good indication of the relative
humidity. You may, however, want to 1. Exterior weather and moisture ground-water leaks or from moisture
install a humidity sensor or humidistat protection requires building paper, movement by capillary action.
to keep more accurate measurements on siding, flashing, gutters and other con-
2. Reducing moisture at the source
humidity levels. struction techniques to shed water and
involves producing less moisture in the
repel wind-driven rain. It also involves
first place and exhausting moist air and
below-grade measures such as proper
Keeping the Structure Dry bringing in drier air. Detailed strategies
drainage, grade slope and damp-proof-
Four strategies are used to keep the are outlined in Chapter 8.
ing to protect the foundation from
structure dry.
19
3. Preventing moist indoor air from properly installed. Polyethylene sheets

getting into the envelope requires and foil-backed gypsum drywall can
a vapour barrier to reduce moisture both combine these functions. To avoid
movement by diffusion and an air confusion of terms, when a material is Up to one third of the insulating
barrier to prevent moisture movement doing both jobs it will be called an air value can be installed on the
by air leakage. and vapour barrier. warm side of the vapour barrier.
Air barriers are described on pages As a general rule, the vapour barrier
14 to 17. Although less moisture can should be on the warm side of the insu- the outside. In this way, any vapour that
be moved into the envelope by vapour lation. In some cases, however, the penetrates the envelope can escape to
diffusion, it is still important to provide vapour barrier can be located within the the outside.
a vapour barrier. An effective vapour wall or ceiling assembly, provided that at
Some wall systems work well with a rela-
barrier must be the following: least two thirds of the insulation value
tively impermeable insulated sheathing
of the wall is on the cold side of the
• resistant to vapour diffusion; because the interior wall-cavity tempera-
vapour barrier. Because this ratio should
tures are kept high. As a precaution,
• durable; be adjusted for houses with high interior
when retrofitting a wall, always ensure
humidity or for homes in extremely cold
• installed on the warm side of the that the interior surfaces are vapour-
climates, it is recommended that you
insulation; and resistant.
consult a professional builder-renovator,
• not necessarily continuous. who will apply the specifications out- Some siding applications have an air
lined in the National Building Code of space immediately behind the exterior
A number of building materials resist
Canada. finish to promote drying out of materi-
vapour diffusion well enough to be
als that have been soaked by rain or
used as vapour barriers. These include 4. Letting the envelope “breathe” to
dampness. This air space also provides
polyethylene, oil-based paints and the outside allows the house to deal
an escape route for any moisture that
special vapour-barrier paints, some with seasonal fluctuations in humidity
has penetrated the wall cavity from the
insulation materials and exterior-grade and to release any moisture that does
indoors. This type of installation should
plywood. Different materials may act as penetrate the envelope from the interior
not be used with insulated siding as
the vapour barrier in different parts of or exterior. This is accomplished in two
convection in the air space will negate
the house. ways. The materials of the envelope are
the effect of the insulated backer board
layered, with those most resistant to
The same material may work as both an on the siding.
vapour diffusion located on the warm
air barrier and a vapour barrier, pro-
side of the envelope and the least resis-
vided it meets both requirements and is
tant (such as building paper) located on
20
Further information on the house as a

PART V system is included throughout this
THE HOUSE AS A book. Later chapters describing how
SYSTEM IN ACTION to insulate your home also include
recommended methods for controlling
The examples given in
air and moisture in walls, basements
this chapter highlight
and attics. Chapter 3, “Comprehensive
the need to consider
Air-Leakage Control”, includes
the house as a system
strategies for moisture control, and
when planning any
Chapter 8, “Operating Your House”,
retrofit work. Pay special attention to
describes strategies for providing
the air and moisture balance and the
ventilation and combustion air.
effect of the retrofit on the heating sys-
tem and ventilation.
For major retrofit projects, you may
have to anticipate the need for changes
to the heating system or house ventila-
tion and include these changes in the
work plan. When undertaking smaller
projects that are spread out over time,
monitor your house carefully after each
project to assess the impact of the
changes. At some point, adjustments
to the heating system and house ventila-
tion will likely be essential to keep the
system working properly.
21
Although there are bound to be some

PART VI sacrifices in energy efficiency, with a lit-
OLDER HOMES tle more planning and care, you can do
AND HERITAGE a lot to make older homes more com-
BUILDINGS fortable, durable and energy efficient.
Extra care at the planning stage involves
Whether your home is assessing the home from several aspects.
50, 75 or 100 years old,
it represents a part • Heritage: What features have to be
of our architectural preserved? What later changes (if
heritage. Older homes any) should be removed?
Older window
deserve special consideration when • Maintenance and repair: What areas
retrofitting. Maintaining the durability need attention? Do any needed
of the structure is especially important. repairs indicate moisture or structural Heating System: A total tune-up of
Homes over 50 years old may incorpo- problems that should be corrected? the heating system is another inexpen-
rate unusual construction details and sive, effective and invisible measure for
materials that make it necessary to • Energy efficiency: What improve- older homes.
improvise and adapt standard retrofit ments can be made while maintain-
ing the heritage quality of the Insulation: Preserving the structure is
methods. Retrofit work will need to be
building? especially important; take extra care to
done with sensitivity to the design,
provide a vapour barrier and air barrier
materials and special features of the The following are some sample guide- when insulating. Basements and attics
home. The retrofit will need to mini- lines and opportunities for retrofit of can often be re-insulated without affect-
mize changes to the building’s appea- older homes. ing appearance. Where it is desirable to
rance and emphasize repair, rather than
Air Sealing: Comprehensive air preserve both the interior and exterior
replacement, of building components.
sealing is one of the least obvious and wall finishes, blowing insulation into the
most effective retrofit projects for cavity of a wood-frame wall is an
older homes. option. Often, older homes have had the
original exterior finish replaced with a
more modern but less appropriate
22
material. Insul-brick may have replaced Doors: Preserving the original doors is
the original stucco, or permastone may important to the overall appearance of
have replaced the original cement an older home. Careful weatherstripping
parging. These situations provide the will improve their performance. As
opportunity to retrofit from the exterior with windows, avoid aluminum storms.
and, at the same time, copy the original A better alternative is to restore the
finish. enclosed vestibule that is found in most
older homes.
Windows: Windows are one of the
most important aspects of a home’s
originality. Careful weatherstripping of
older, single-pane, wood-frame win-
dows will do much to improve their
energy efficiency. If the original wooden
storm windows have been destroyed, it’s
possible to have custom wood storms
made to order. If the object is to pre-
serve the appearance of the building,
avoid metal storms or storm-and-screen
combinations.
If exterior wood storms are not desirable
because of the maintenance factor,
interior storms offer a good alternative.
These are less noticeable than exterior
metal storms, and they can be made to
fit on the sash or the window trim. If
the window sash is badly deteriorated,
replacement units can be made to fit the
existing frame.
23
2 Materials
Keeping the Heat In
INTRODUCTION
Whether you’re doing the work yourself
or hiring a contractor, it’s important to
know what the right materials are for
your particular job. Choosing the right
materials and installing them properly
will ensure that the finished product
lives up to your expectations.
This chapter describes the three types of
materials used when keeping the heat
in: insulation, air-barrier materials and
vapour-barrier materials.
Review the chapters in this book that
deal specifically with your particular
project and use this information to
choose the most appropriate materials.
24
Keeping the Heat In 2 Materials
Insulation Air-Barrier Vapour-Barrier Health and Safety Special Health

Part I Materials Materials Considerations Considerations
Part II Part III Part IV Part V
• resistance to high temperatures; • Does one insulation require more

PART I accessory products than another
INSULATION • resistance to moisture flow
(fire protection, framing, air and
(can it reduce the movement of
Requirements for vapour barrier)?
water vapour?);
Insulation In short, the choice of insulation will
• resistance to air movement (can it
Insulation’s main largely depend on how it will be used.
act as an air barrier?); and
function is to keep the The chapters on insulating walls, base-
heat in. To be effective, • when required, a fire-rated protective ments and attics discuss the types of
insulation must be the following: covering. insulation commonly used for these
applications. Fortunately, particular
• resistant to heat flow; Once you have matched the material
insulation jobs will quickly eliminate
properties with the specific application,
• able to fill the space completely some materials, making the choice
consider the following installation factors:
and evenly; much easier.
• Is it relatively easy to install?
• durable; and Naturally, cost is a factor in the choice
• Is it the best buy for the space avail- of material. Generally, the cost per RSI
• for some locations, able to withstand
able (either high insulating value per value is lower for loose-fill or batt-type
exposure to heat or moisture.
dollar if you have lots of open space, materials than for rigid board or foam-
Several different insulation materials or high insulating value per thickness type insulations. However, the price of
may be used at different locations in the if space is restricted)? the basic material is just one aspect. In
house envelope, depending on the space some cases, high material costs may be
• Is it available locally?
available for the insulation, ease of access offset by lower installation costs or the
and other installation requirements. • Will it be easy to install the insula- preference of the installer for a particu-
tion to fill the space completely? lar insulation technique. A better com-
parison can be made using the installed
The Proper Choice of Insulation • Can it conform to surface irregularities?
cost. This includes the cost of the insu-
The proper choice of insulation depends • Is it rigid enough to provide support lation material plus the cost of required
on its final use. In most applications, for finished materials or resist pres- accessories and installation.
good resistance to heat flow is not the sures against its surfaces?
only thing you will have to consider. In
specific situations, insulation may also
need to have any number of the follow-
ing properties:
25
Batt insulation Blown-in insulation
Insulations are manufactured from a Summary of Insulation Types • Will not settle.
wide range of materials, including Batt or Blanket Insulation • Some products are non-combustible
melted glass spun into fibres, expanded
Batt or blanket insulation is relatively (check with the manufacturer).
volcanic rock, recycled newsprint and
easy to install in accessible spaces such
foam plastic. Loose-Fill Insulation
as exposed wall cavities and some attics.
However, there are only four basic It conforms to slight surface irregulari- Loose-fill insulation is made from a
forms of insulation that provide a ready ties and can be cut to fit. Safety variety of materials, with particles rang-
means of classification: batt or blankets, equipment and protective clothing ing in texture from granular to fluffy.
loose-fill insulation, rigid or semi-rigid are required during installation. Loose-fill insulation is excellent for fill-
boards, and spray-foam insulation. The ing irregular or inaccessible spaces. It is
Mineral Fibre suitable for walls and floors and excel-
following are detailed descriptions of all
• Includes 0.022 RSI/mm (3.2 R/in.) lent in attics and enclosed spaces such as
these categories.
glass fibre. roofs where the space between the joists
• Includes 0.023 RSI/mm (3.3 R/in.) may be irregular or cluttered with obsta-
mineral wool. cles. It is often handy for filling small
spaces or covering ceiling joists. It is not
• Is available in batts or continuous appropriate for below-grade application.
rolls (blankets).
26
Note: Unless otherwise indicated, all the insu-

lation materials listed require the presence of
an air barrier and a vapour barrier.
• Because of its small particle size, can

fill around obstructions such as nails
or electrical wires within cavities.
• May reduce air leakage if installed to
the proper densities.
Blown
• Average RSI of 0.025/mm (3.6 R/in.),
depending on the paper and chemi-
cal mix and the blown density.
• Proper blown density for enclosed
cavities is 56 to 72 kg/m3
(3 1⁄2 to 4 1⁄2 lb./cu.ft.).
Poured
• Insulating value of 0.024 RSI/mm
Loose-fill insulation (3.4 R/in.).
• Follow manufacturer’s instructions
Loose-fill insulation may be blown or must be installed following the manu- for proper application techniques.
poured. Pouring insulation will gener- facturer’s instructions.
ally require more material than blowing Glass Fibre
Safety equipment and protective cloth- • A similar material to glass-fibre batts,
insulation to achieve a specified RSI
ing are required during installation. but chopped up for blowing or pour-
value. It is useful for topping up existing
The most important aspect of installa- ing applications.
insulation in attics and accessible
tion is following the manufacturer’s
enclosed wall cavities and for filling in
instructions.
cracks and uneven spaces.
Cellulose Fibre
The proper installation of blown loose-
• Made from shredded newsprint
fill insulation usually requires an experi-
treated with chemicals that resist fire
enced, well-trained technician. To
and fungal growth and inhibit
achieve the full RSI value, the material
corrosion.
27
• Hand-poured glass fibre works best

in open horizontal surfaces such as
attics. Blown glass fibre can be used
in both horizontal and vertical
applications, but may be difficult to
install in cavities that are partially
blocked by nails, framing, electrical
wiring, etc.
• For walls, the density of application
is usually two to two and a half times
the recommended rate of application Rigid board insulation
for horizontal surfaces.
• Some classified as non-combustible. Mineral Wool (Slag and Rock Wool) Blown
Check the manufacturer’s specifica- • Treated with oil and binders to sup- • Average insulating value of 0.021
tions. press dust and maintain shape; a RSI/mm (3.0 R/in.), depending on
Blown lubricant is added for blowing pur- the density at which it is blown in.
• Average insulating value of 0.020 poses. Similar to glass fibre in
RSI/mm (2.9 R/in.), depending appearance and texture.
for proper application techniques.
on density. • Suitable for accessible attics and inac-
Poured
• Follow manufacturer’s instructions cessible areas such as wood-frame
• Insulating value of 0.022 RSI/mm
for proper application techniques. roofs, walls and floors.
(3.2 R/in.).
Poured • For walls, the density of application is
• Insulating value of 0.021 RSI/mm usually two to two and a half times
for proper application techniques.
(3.0 R/in.). the recommended rate of application
for horizontal surfaces. Vermiculite
• Follow manufacturer’s instructions • An expanded mica material that was
for proper application techniques. • Good for insulating around masonry
commonly used in older homes,
chimneys as it will not support com-
although less readily available these
bustion.
days.
28
• Usually hand-installed. • Above-grade type covered with a

Warning: Some vermiculite insulation may water-repellent breather-type build-
contain asbestos fibres. From the 1920s to • Suitable for both horizontal and
ing paper.
1990, a vermiculite ore produced by the Libby vertical applications.
Mine in Montana, USA may have contained • Below-grade type has an insulating
• For vertical applications, it is poured
asbestos. It was sold in Canada as Zonolite® value of 0.029 RSI/mm (4.2 R/in.).
into the wall cavity and packed down
Attic Insulation and possibly as other brands. with a heavy weight to make sure • The exterior sheathing has an
Not all vermiculite insulation produced before that the cavity is filled and to prevent insulating value of 0.031 RSI/mm
1990 contains asbestos fibres. However, to be future settling. (4.4 R/in.).
safe in the absence of evidence to the con-
trary, it is reasonable to assume that if your • Follow manufacturer’s instructions
home has older vermiculite insulation, it may for the proper application techniques. Expanded Polystyrene
contain some asbestos. • Produced by bonding coarse beads
Rigid Board Insulation
into rigid foam plastic boards. It is
If vermiculite is contained in walls or attic Board insulations are manufactured often referred to as “bead board.”
spaces and is not disturbed, it poses very little from glass fibre or foam plastic materials.
risk to occupant health. However, if it is These materials have a high insulating • Manufactured in the following two
exposed or disturbed as it might be during a value per unit thickness, although the densities:
renovation, it can cause health risks. Asbestos cost per RSI value is greater than for – low density with an insulating
inhalation is associated with asbestosis, lung loose-fill or batt/blanket insulations. value of 0.026 RSI/mm
cancer and mesothelioma. (3.7 R/in.); and
Insulating boards are lightweight and
If you find older vermiculite insulation in your easy to cut and handle. Fitting them – high density with an insulating
home, do not disturb it and consult the Health into irregular spaces, however, can be a value of 0.028 RSI/mm
Canada publication "It’s Your Health – tedious process. Some boards are now (4.0 R/in.).
Vermiculite Insulation Containing Asbestos" available with an attached fire-resistant,
available free by calling 1-800-O-Canada, or moisture-resistant or decorative cover- • High-density board is more resistant
visit www.hc-sc.gc.ca. ing. It is also possible to purchase to moisture than low-density board
specially designed boards that come and can be used on the exterior of
with their own system of attachment. foundation walls in dry, sandy soils.
• Two types – untreated and treated. Regular board materials can be • Must be protected from prolonged
Untreated vermiculite absorbs mois- ordered pre-cut to specific sizes for an exposure to sunlight, solvents and
ture. Treated (water-repellant) vermi- additional cost. some sealants. Use compatible
culite is coated with asphalt for use Glass-Fibre Boards sealants only. Ask your dealer for
in areas of high moisture. • Two types of high-density, semi-rigid information.
• Untreated vermiculite has an average glass-fibre board are commonly used • Requires covering with a fire-resistant
insulating value of 0.016 RSI/mm in residential applications: one material.
(2.3 R/in.); treated vermiculite has designed specifically for below-grade
exterior use, and the other an above- Extruded Polystyrene
an average insulating value of 0.017
grade exterior sheathing. • A foam plastic board with fine,
RSI/mm (2.5 R/in.).
closed cells containing a mixture of
air and refrigerant gases (fluorocar-
bons).
29
• Manufactured in the following two • Usually come double-faced with foil • Suitable for areas where space is at a
densities: or are sometimes bonded with an premium but high RSI values are
interior or exterior finishing material. required.
– low density with an insulating
value from 0.033 RSI/mm • Faced boards have a typical insulating • Typical insulating value of 0.030
(4.7 R/in.) to 0.035 RSI/mm value of 0.040 RSI/mm (5.8 R/in.) RSI/mm (4.3 R/in.) open cell and
(5.0 R/in.); and to 0.050 RSI/mm (7.2 R/in.) and 0.058 RSI/mm (8.3 R/in.) closed cell
come in a variety of sizes. (based on manufacturer’s literature).
– high density with an insulating
value of 0.035 RSI/mm (5.0 R/in.). • Must be protected from prolonged • Must be protected from exposure to
exposure to sunlight and water. sunlight and water.
• Must be protected from prolonged
exposure to sunlight or solvents. • Must be covered with a fire-resistant Spray-Foam Insulation
material. This type of insulation is mixed on the
• If joints are sealed properly, can per-
form as an air barrier, and certain • Can act as an air barrier (if seams are job site by the contractor or installer.
thicknesses may perform as a vapour well sealed) and as a vapour barrier. The liquid foam is sprayed directly
barrier. onto the building surface or poured into
• Use generally limited to areas where a enclosed cavities using a spray gun
• When installed on interior surfaces, high RSI is desired and space is at a driven by a pump. The foam expands in
must be covered with a fire-resistant premium. place and sets in seconds. The installa-
material that is mechanically fastened tion contractor should be trained in the
Phenolic Foam Boards
to the building structure. application of the specific product.
• Manufactured from phenol
Polyurethane and Polyisocyanurate formaldehyde resin. Some panels Polyurethane Foam
Boards have a water-repellant exterior skin • A pale yellow foam of closed cells
• Plastic boards made of closed cells on both sides. containing refrigerant gases (fluoro-
containing refrigerant gases (fluoro- carbons).
carbons) instead of air.
30
• Typical insulating value of 0.042 Semi-Flexible Isocyanurate Plastic Foam

RSI/mm (6.0 R/in.). Other values • A combination of isocyanurate,
are sometimes quoted, but this value resins and catalysts forms this
takes into account the loss of refrige- open-celled, semi-flexible plastic
rant gases over time. foam insulation.
• Sprayed onto surfaces in layers less • Manufacturers’ literature lists
than 50 mm (2 in.) thick and hard- insulating value as 0.030 RSI/mm
ens in seconds. (4.3 R/in.).
• Can expand up to 28 times its origi- • Some limitations on the thickness
nal size and should not be used in that can be applied.
enclosed cavities.
• Can be used as an air barrier.
• Can be used as an air barrier but not
• Requires covering with a fire-resistant
as a vapour barrier.
material.
• Must be protected from prolonged
exposure to sunlight and requires
covering with a fire-resistant material
when used indoors.
31
Air-Barrier System Components • Does it serve other functions such

PART II as acting as insulation or as a vapour
AIR-BARRIER The most common components of an
air-barrier system are the following: barrier?
MATERIALS Sheet Materials
• sheet or rigid materials for large
Requirements for surfaces; Polyethylene Sheeting
Air-Barrier Systems • Available in wide sheets, minimizing
• caulking and gaskets for joints
The air-barrier system the number of seams required.
between materials that do not
is an important part of
move; and • Seams and edges should be supported
any retrofit job. It is the
on both sides to maintain the seal.
main means of protecting the building • weatherstripping for joints that
structure and the insulation from mois- do move. • A thickness of 0.15 mm (6 mil) now
ture damage. In order to be effective, commonly installed as an air barrier
the air-barrier system must be the because it is more durable on the
following:
Choosing Air-Barrier Materials
construction site.
If the material offers resistance to air-
• resistant to air movement; flow, strength and durability, consider • Should be protected from exposure
the following installation factors: to sunlight. When exposed to sun-
• continuous, completely surrounding
light over extended periods (when
the envelope of the house and prop- • Is it easy to install? wrapping the exterior of a house, for
erly supported by rigid surfaces on
• If installed in a concealed location, example), a UV-stabilized polyethy-
both the interior and exterior (to pre-
will it last the life of the building or lene should be used.
vent movement in high winds); and
will it be accessible and easily • Should be clear, made from virgin
• strong and durable. repaired? material and labelled. Should con-
A variety of materials are used through- • Is it compatible with other materials form to the Canadian General
out the envelope to act as the air barrier. in the system? Can it be successfully Standards Board standard for poly-
In some cases, building materials such sealed to adjacent materials? ethylene.
as drywall, baseboards or structural
• Is the choice of material appropriate • Can also function as a vapour barrier.
members are incorporated into the air
barrier by sealing them to adjoining for the other work being done on the
materials. home? Some renovation work will
permit the installation of a new
sheet-material air barrier, while other
jobs may require comprehensive air-
sealing work instead.
32
Caution: Exterior products should not be

used indoors – they may be hazardous when
their volatiles are inhaled in a confined space
over an extended period of time. Check the
manufacturer’s literature carefully.
stripping or gasket. For example, caulking Acoustical Sealant

can be used between the baseboard and • Bonds to most surfaces; excellent for
a wall as well as between the baseboard use on metal, concrete and gypsum
Caulking and the floor, linking the air-sealing board.
qualities of three different building
• Excellent for sealing the joints in
components. The combination of rigid
Housewrap polyethylene air and vapour barriers,
air-barrier materials forms the house’s
• Available in wide sheets, minimizing but should be used only where it is
air-barrier system as long as the joints
the number of seams required. sandwiched between two materials.
are well sealed.
• Acts solely as an air barrier; does not • Mechanical support (e.g., staples)
Sealants
function as a vapour barrier. required when acoustical sealant
Caulking is used to seal joints between is used to seal the joints in
• Generally used to wrap the exterior building components. Most joints move polyethylene.
of a house; often bonded to exterior because of changes in moisture and
glass-fibre sheathing. temperature in the building. Some • Maximum joint width of 16 mm
caulking materials can seal a larger joint (5⁄8 in.); accepts some joint movement
• When installed on the exterior, acts (10 percent).
as a wind barrier, preventing wind and accommodate more joint move-
from reducing the effective RSI value ment than others. Make sure that the • Very durable (20-year life
of insulation. caulking you use is compatible with expectancy).
the surfaces you are applying it to.
• Should be protected from extended • Non-hardening and not paintable;
exposure to sunlight. Caulkings are not permanent and will use should be limited to unexposed
have to be maintained. They also vary in applications.
Rigid Materials their durability, compatibility with
other materials, suitability for painting Acrylic Latex
Most solid building components will act
as barriers to air. These components and curing time. All sealants will require • A water-based emulsion sealant.
include drywall, plaster, plywood, glass, some extra ventilation of the house after • Excellent for non-porous surfaces
wood and poured concrete (not concrete application to let the material cure. such as aluminum, glass and ceramic
blocks). Insulating materials such as rigid Typical curing time will be no more tile, but may be used to seal joints
foam boards also act as air barriers. To be than two or three days for interior with wood surfaces.
effective, however, the seams between applications.
these various materials must be sealed • Maximum joint width of 10 mm
with the appropriate caulking, weather- (3⁄8 in.); limit use to joints where little
or no movement is expected.
33
• Durable (10-year life expectancy). • Excellent for large moving joints: Urethane Foam Sealant
up to 25 mm (1 in.) joint width and • Available in a dispensing system with
• Available in a wide range of colours;
12 to 50 percent joint movement. spray nozzles or individual aerosol
paintable.
spray cans.
• Highly durable (over 20-year life
• Can attract dust over time, especially
expectancy). • Foam types are available with dif-
when used next to floors.
ferent rates of expansion depending
• Most types not paintable.
Butyl Rubber on ingredients and the amount of
• A synthetic rubber sealant. • Available in several colours and clear; pre-curing. Check the cans carefully
clear silicone is particularly suited for for details on sizes of cracks that can
• Bonds to most surfaces; particularly
sealing highly visible joints where the be filled. Some types expand slowly
suited to metal and masonry.
caulking should not be noticeable. and moderately; others expand
• Appropriate for a joint width up to quickly and greatly. Use gloves and
• Ventilation required during applica-
13 mm (1⁄2 in.); accepts some move- a drop cloth.
tion and curing.
ment of joint (5 to 10 percent).
• Bonds well to most surfaces except
Polysulphide Sealant
• Durable (10-year life expectancy). polyethylene, teflon or silicone plastics.
• Produces a flexible sealant upon curing.
• Available in a variety of colours; • Very good for filling larger joints and
• Ideally suited for use on stone,
paintable after one week’s curing. cavities where conventional sealant
masonry and concrete surfaces when
materials would not be suitable (i.e.,
• Ventilation required during applica- used with a special primer.
header/joist intersections and around
tion and curing (up to three days).
• Maximum joint width of 25 mm plumbing and vent openings).
Silicone Sealant (1 in.); will accept joint movement
• Should not be used at window head-
• Solvent-free silicone compound; of 12 to 25 percent.
ers since it can transfer structural
produces a flexible, watertight seal
• Excellent durability (over 25-year loads if the wall settles.
upon curing.
life expectancy).
• Good durability (10- to 20-year life
• Good adhesion to most surfaces;
• Available in several colours; expectancy).
primers may be required on wood,
paintable.
steel or anodized aluminum. • Like all insulating foams, must be
• Ventilation required to remove covered with a fire-resistant material.
potentially toxic vapours.
• Ventilation required to remove
potentially toxic vapours.
34
Electrical outlet gasket Foam backer rod
High-Temperature Stove or Muffler Sill Plate Gasket • Electrical outlet gaskets are more
Cements • Polyethylene foam strips. effective when caulked and should be
• For use in areas where there are high used in conjunction with child-safety
• Installed between the foundation and
temperatures but no joint movement. plugs to reduce air leakage through
sill plate during construction or
electrical sockets.
• Typically used in conjunction with where existing house walls meet a
other materials for sealing around new addition. Foam Backer Rod
masonry or factory-built chimneys. • Closed-cell compressible foam “rope.”
• Available in 152- and 203-mm
Gaskets (6- and 8-in.) widths on 24-m (79- • Excellent for filling deep gaps before
Several specialty gaskets have been ft.) rolls. caulking.
developed for sealing joints where Electrical Outlet and Lighting • Available in diameters of 6 to 51 mm
caulking may not be appropriate. Fixture Gaskets (1⁄4 to 2 in.).
• Foam gaskets are designed to fit
behind the cover plates of electrical
receptacles, switches and lighting
mounts, reducing air leakage into
walls and attics.
35
Closed-cell foam Ribbed Tubular
Neoprene Gasket
• Flexible and very durable.
• Excellent for sealing joints and pene-
trations where movement is to be
Spring vinyl Spring metal Magnetic strip
expected, such as plumbing stacks.
Weatherstripping
Weatherstripping is used to block air
leakage around doors and the operable
parts of windows. Weatherstripping
comes in a variety of shapes; it can be
a flat strip, tube or “V” shape and can
be designed to work under compression Door sweep Full threshold Spring loaded
or by sliding along the joint. To be Types of weatherstripping
effective, the product must close the
gap and not allow air to pass.
When choosing weatherstripping, con- Closed-Cell Foam Tubular Stripping
sider the size of the gap to be sealed and • An adhesive-backed foam stripping • Tubular material made with either its
the durability, ease of installation and available in rolls. own attachment area or on an attach-
appearance of the product. Look for ment strip of a different material.
• Easy to install.
products that are flexible and that • Rubber type (as opposed to plastic)
spring back to their original shape • Available as a high-performance com-
should be used because it is more
quickly and easily. Avoid products that pressible polyurethane strip with its
durable.
make it difficult to operate the window own carrier.
or door. • Generally used as a window or door
Ribbed Closed-Cell Rubber
weatherstrip; installed with nails, sta-
Compression Strips • An adhesive-backed stripping avail-
ples or screws, depending on the type
Use compression strips where there is a able in rolls.
of attachment strip.
pressure stress, such as at the bottom of • Very durable; easy to install.
vertical sliding windows, along attic • Highly noticeable when installed.
hatches or on hinged windows and doors. • Good for irregular surfaces but less
appropriate for accommodating long
or varied gap widths.
36
Tension Strips • Effective for doors and hinged Door Sweeps

Spring Vinyl windows. • A vinyl pile or rubber sweep.
• Can be used in the same applications
• Install with screws through an • Screwed via attachment strip to
as compression strips as well as in slid-
attachment strip. door bottom.
ing joints in double-hung windows
and doors. • Can be used in conjunction with • Effective where a carpet has a low
“V” strips. pile or is absent altogether.
• Adhesive-backed; easy to install.
Magnetic-Strip Systems Partial Threshold
• Two types available:
• Magnetic attraction between a mag- • A vinyl or rubber strip, attached to
– small-format “V” strip for narrow netic strip mounted on the door/win- the door threshold.
gaps, such as tight-fitting double- dow frame and a metal strip mounted
• Provides an excellent seal.
hung windows; and on the door/window provides the seal.
• Can become damaged by traffic and
– large format for wide gaps, such as • Effective for doors and hinged win-
weathering.
loose windows and doors. dows in moderate climatic conditions.
Full Threshold
• Good durability; polypropylene type • May not provide good seal in cold
• A combination strip, attached to
should be chosen over other plastics. temperatures due to condensation
threshold.
and frost formation (the PVC case
Spring Metal
may stiffen and split). • Requires at least 16 mm (5⁄8 in.) clear-
• Generally used as a door weather-
ance below the door to be effective.
strip; most effective when under • Good durability; highly noticeable
light compression. when installed. Door Bottoms
• Combination strips of vinyl pile or
• Installed using small tacks. Door Bottoms, Sweeps and Thresholds
compressible rubber.
• Metal can permanently deform. The bottoms of doors can be sealed
• Attachment strip fits over door bottom.
using a number of systems: door
Combination Types
sweeps, door thresholds and door • Requires a clearance of 8 to
Spring-Loaded/Self-Adjusting
bottoms. Door bottoms and sweeps are 13 mm (1⁄3 to 1⁄2 in.) under door.
Weatherstripping
usually more durable than thresholds,
• Uses a spring mechanism that allows it
although they often provide a less
to adapt to unequal distances from the
effective seal.
weatherstrip to the door or window.
37
Taping an air duct Electrical box
Tape Sheathing Tape Other Items

Duct Tape • Available for sealing the seams of Electrical Box Air Barriers
• Vinyl and foil tapes can be used to housewrap wind-barrier material and • Plastic boxes placed around electrical
seal around the seams of heating polyethylene air-barrier material. outlet and switch boxes before instal-
ductwork to reduce air leakage, espe- lation.
cially where ducting passes through
• Equipped with a flange for sealing to
unheated areas of the house.
the main air barrier.
• Also act as vapour barriers.
38
Like an air barrier, the vapour barrier barrier for walls and ceilings. Areas that
PART III can be made up of different materials; most often require special applications
VAPOUR-BARRIER even some existing building components of vapour barriers include interlocking
MATERIALS such as plywood, paint or vinyl ceiling tiles and new drywall. Pay spe-
wallpaper may form part of the cial attention to areas of high humidity,
Requirements for
vapour barrier. such as kitchens and bathrooms.
Vapour Barriers
The vapour barrier is
an important compo- Vapour-Barrier Components Choosing Vapour Barrier
nent of the house enve- The effectiveness of vapour-barrier Materials
lope; it provides some protection from material is measured in terms of its Any material used as a vapour barrier will
moisture damage to the structure and “perm” rating. The lower the perm need to be durable and resistant to mois-
the insulation materials. To be effective, rating, the more effective the ture flow. Once these characteristics are
the vapour barrier must be: vapour barrier. met, the following factors should be
considered:
• resistant to the flow of water vapour; Materials that are considered to be
effective vapour barriers include the • Is it easy to install?
• durable; and
following:
• Can the material also act as insula-
• located on the warm side
• polyethylene; tion or an air barrier?
of insulation.
• aluminum foil; • Is it appropriate to the other work
The vapour barrier does not need to be
being done on the home?
perfectly continuous like an air barrier, • some types of paints;
but it should cover as much of the
• some types and thicknesses
building envelope as possible. Although
of insulation;
it needs to be located on the warm side
of the insulation, the vapour barrier can • vinyl wallpaper; and
be installed part way into the wall,
• exterior-grade plywood.
provided that no more than one third
of the insulating value of the wall is on In most older houses, the layers of oil-
the warm side of the vapour barrier. based primer paint and varnish finishes
This should be reduced to one quarter can function as an adequate vapour
or less of the insulating value in very
cold climates or in buildings with high
moisture sources such as swimming
pools.
39
Warning: An older home may contain insula-

tion that is wholly or partly asbestos, usually
white or greyish white in colour, and may be in
a powder or semi-fibrous form. Some older
types of vermiculite insulation may also con-
tain asbestos. Please read the warning on
page 29.
• Protect your back when lifting heavy

PART IV objects; do not lift and reach at the
Asbestos inhalation is associated with
HEALTH AND same time.
asbestosis, lung cancer and mesothelioma. If
you find such material, check with your local
SAFETY • Take special care when handling or provincial health authority to determine
CONSIDERATIONS heavy or bulky objects, especially whether you should consult a professional
when going up and down stairs qualified to work with asbestos. Asbestos
If proper precautions are taken, retro-
and ladders. professionals can be found in your Yellow
fitting should pose no threat to the
PagesTM under "Asbestos".
health and safety of the occupants or to • Smoking is especially hazardous. Do
those doing the work. not take smoke breaks near insula-
Almost all building tion or fumes. the primary material but from binders,
materials are potentially
• Keep your work site well organized solvents, stabilizers or other additives of
hazardous, but, if they
with tools out of the way of traffic, which you may not be aware.
are handled and
installed with care, the and give yourself plenty of clear space Fortunately, there are a number of
work can be done easily and safely. to manoeuvre. things you can do to ensure that your
• Make sure that the work space is well retrofit job is done safely and effectively.
Safety reminders for each type of retrofit
lighted and ventilated. Maintaining a clean work area and sepa-
job are noted in the chapters that follow.
rating it from the rest of the house will
This section provides general construc- • Ensure proper electrical supply for minimize exposure to materials.
tion-safety tips and guidelines for power tools.
working with different types of retrofit • Keep fibrous materials and materials
materials. • Wear appropriate protective clothing that generate vapours well sealed
for the job at hand. until they are needed, and close
• Do not work in an attic on a hot day. them in containers at the end of
General Construction Safety
Heat stress can cause accidents and the work day.
• Common tools such as hammers,
serious illness. • Vacuum the work area daily to
utility knives, staple guns, ladders,
rakes and power tools must be remove fibres and dust.
handled with care. More complicated Protecting Yourself and • Provide ventilation for the work area
equipment such as blowers, foamers Your Family and isolate it from the rest of the
and sprayers require special instruc- Many of today’s materials give off parti- house by closing doors or hanging
tion and practice. cles, fibres or vapours that can be harm- curtains of plastic.
• Have a first-aid kit and a fire ful to the installer and anyone in the
• Provide extra ventilation for the rest
extinguisher handy and know how immediate area. Even natural materials
of the house while the work is in
to use them. such as sawdust and plaster dust can be
progress and during any curing or
harmful. Often, the hazard is not from
drying period.
40
when handling glass fibre, mineral wool

and cellulose fibre insulation. A half-
mask respirator with a High Efficiency
Particulate Arrester (HEPA) filter car-
tridge is recommended when dealing
with any insulation that may contain
asbestos fibres. The respirators are avail-
able through safety-supply houses. Buy
a supply of filters rated for the material
you are using and change the filters
according to the manufacturer’s instruc-
tions.
In the case of material that contains or
is suspected to contain asbestos, such
as vermiculite, do not disturb the
material. Check with your local or
provincial health authority to deter-
mine whether you should consult a
professional qualified to work with the
material. See Warning on page 29.
Wear a hard hat to prevent head injuries
and to protect your hair from insulation
particles.
A vacuum cleaner is the preferred
Protective clothing method of cleaning up fibres or dust. It
is a good idea to attach an extension
hose to the exhaust port of the vacuum
Read this section carefully and follow Wear goggles whenever there is any cleaner and to discharge the vacuum
the recommended safety procedures for possibility of insulation dust coming in cleaner to the outside to ensure that any
working with various materials. contact with the eyes. Eyes can easily particles travelling through the filter are
become irritated or inflamed by brittle not recirculated in the household air. If
glass or mineral fibres, and permanent you can only sweep up the material, wet
Insulation and Other
damage can result. it first to prevent particles from becom-
Particulate Materials
Wear a mask for non-toxic particles if ing airborne.
Fibrous insulation materials such as
glass fibre and mineral wool can easily there is a possibility of breathing air- Vacuum your clothing to avoid spread-
irritate the skin, eyes and respiratory borne particles of insulation material. ing insulation material around the
system. Long sleeves, tight cuffs and The tiny fibres from glass and mineral house. Wash work clothes separately
loose, thick clothing will help minimize insulations can cause respiratory tract from other clothing.
any skin irritations. Special barrier irritation and lung inflammation.
creams that protect the skin when Avoid breathing insulation dusts.
working with fibrous materials are Wear a well-designed, snug-fitting half-
available from safety-supply houses. mask respirator with a particulate filter
41
Warning: Older homes, especially those built

before 1950, were often painted with lead-
based paint. Caution should be exercised,
especially when working with older homes’
windows, doors, trim work, wood siding or
porches. For further information, obtain a copy
of the Canada Mortgage and Housing
Corporation (CMHC) publication entitled Lead
in Your Home (Publication No. 61941) by cal-
ing 1-800-668-2642. This publication can also
Plastic Insulations When applying the spray-in-place mate- be ordered on-line free of charge at CMHC’s
Rigid polystyrene insulation is essen- rial, contractors take special safety pre- Web site: www.cmhc-schl.gc.ca. Look under
tially an inert material, but it can shed cautions and use respirators. If you plan “Products” in CMHC’s catalogue of housing
particles when cut. Use a face mask to have foam insulation installed inside renovation publications.
when cutting board stock. your home, provide additional ventila-
tion until the material has cured.
Polyurethane and polyisocyanurate Fumes from caulking can cause respira-
insulations give off harmful vapours tory irritation or other allergic reactions.
when the rigid boards are being manu- Caulking Make sure the work area is well venti-
factured and when the material is being A variety of caulking materials have lated and provide additional ventilation
sprayed in place on the job site. The widely different chemical compositions. to the home during the curing period.
vapour causes skin and eye irritation However, all caulking materials share The curing time can vary from days
and breathing difficulties, even at low the following common characteristics: to weeks.
levels of exposure. Residual amounts of
• They all use solvents to keep the Note: Follow directions when caulking
vapour may be present with the rigid
material pliable until it is installed. is specified for exterior use only.
board material. Make sure the work area
is well ventilated. These types of rigid • Once applied, the solvents will eva-
boards will also shed particles when cut; porate and fumes will be given off as
use a mask as for polystyrene. the material sets or cures.
42
Being cautious when working with If you have special health concerns, you
PART V materials can also reduce exposure for may also wish to seek advice from your
SPECIAL HEALTH you and your family. Segregate the work allergist or family doctor, who may be
CONSIDERATIONS area, using sheets of plastic if necessary, able to help you select materials that are
and don’t wear work clothing in other more easily tolerated. For the chemically
Retrofitting poses poten-
areas of the house. Keep the work area sensitive, this may involve a series of
tial health problems for
clean, vacuuming frequently. Store exposure tests to small samples of
people with allergies,
materials outside of the house until they material. Your allergist also may be
asthma or chemical
are needed, and keep caulking tubes, able to direct you to contractors who
sensitivities. The
insulation bundles and paint cans are experienced in undertaking renova-
following are options for those
closely covered when not in use. Provide tion work for clients with allergies or
in that situation:
additional ventilation to the work area chemical sensitivities.
• Choose materials carefully. and to the whole house while work is in
progress and during curing periods.
• Take extra precautions when working
with the material. Health considerations may be a major
factor in the decision to insulate from
• Plan the work to minimize exposure.
the outside of the house instead of the
Some materials are less troublesome inside. If you do work from the inside,
than others. By carefully choosing plan the job so that it’s done as quickly
materials, exposure to irritating sub- as possible. This may mean hiring a
stances can be avoided or reduced. For contractor to do all or part of the work
example, rigid board insulations do not or staging an old-fashioned work bee.
shed dust or particles unless they are Where major renovations and retrofit
cut, and some caulkings have a shorter will affect the whole house, you may
curing period than others. Also, finish- wish to consider sending the family on a
ing materials such as paints and stains vacation or moving to temporary quar-
with reduced toxicity are now available ters while the work is under way.
for the chemically sensitive.
43
3 Comprehensive Air-Leakage
Keeping the Heat In
INTRODUCTION
Air-leakage control is the single most
important retrofit activity, and it should
be considered first in any retrofit strat-
egy. Blocking air leaks brings many
benefits: increased comfort, reduced
heat loss, protection of the building
structure and reduction of the amount
of noise and dust that enters from
outdoors.
Comprehensive air-leakage control is
the systematic identification and sealing
of as many air-leakage paths as possible.
The ventilation system also should be
considered. Many of the leaks are
obvious breaks in the air-barrier system,
such as through and around windows,
doors and electrical outlets. Other air
leaks are more difficult to identify, such
as bypasses around chimneys and
plumbing stacks that can channel air
directly from the basement to the attic.
44
Keeping the Heat In 3 Comprehensive Air-Leakage Control
Control
Finding Leakage Areas Caulking and Other
Part I Air-Sealing Materials
Part II
Comprehensive air-leakage control can House as a System Each house will respond to comprehen-
result from a systematic effort of weath- Remember that the house works as a sive air sealing in its own unique way.
erstripping, caulking and applying system in which each component is This has to be monitored in each case.
gaskets and tapes. Air-leakage control is related to other components. Changing Older houses may require remedial
also an essential part of every insulating one thing can affect other aspects of measures before comprehensive air seal-
job. Every time you insulate, you must the house. ing; moisture that has crept into the
also install or upgrade the air-barrier walls over time can result in mould
system. This will help you to get the This is especially true with air sealing, buildup, and the house’s wind and air
most from your insulation job and help which can affect the house moisture barriers may need repair or replacement.
ensure that moisture does not enter into flows, and combustion and ventilation The best way to avoid problems is to
the insulation or building envelope. air supply. As the envelope is tightened, understand how they occur and to take
household humidity levels rise. This can steps to control humidity and ventila-
Warning: Furnaces, fireplaces, wood- cause condensation and moisture prob- tion.
stoves and any other fuel-burning lems. Less air is available for combustion
appliances also require air for combus- appliances and less fresh air circulates Humidity, ventilation and combustion
tion and for diluting and exhausting the throughout the house. Therefore, an air are discussed in more detail in
products of combustion out of the important part of comprehensive air- Chapter 8.
house. If there is not enough air, it is leakage control is attention to whole-
possible that the chimney or flue could house ventilation and combustion-air
backdraft or spill dangerous gases supply.
into the house. Refer to the section
entitled “Combustion Air” on page 121
for further information. Also, if you sus-
pect that you have a problem, you
should speak to your heating contractor.
45
PART I Leak Detector

FINDING LEAKAGE There is an easy way to locate air leaks: Leak detector
make yourself a “leak detector.” All you
AREAS need are incense sticks. Hold two or
How to Locate Air three together for more smoke and where air rushes into the house. A pro-
Leaks easier detection. Powerful leaks will fessional fan test can also determine the
cause the smoke to dissipate and the total leakage area in the house, the
The first step is to
tips of the incense to glow. Slower leaks extent of the work required, the effec-
identify where the leaks
will cause the smoke to trail away or tiveness of the work as indicated in a
occur. Air leaks where
move toward the leak. post-retrofit test, and indications of
there is a hole in the building envelope
backdrafting and spillage problems.
and a pressure difference. In winter, the On a cold day, check for drafts in all
house tends to operate like a big, fat suspected areas. It is easier to locate air You can perform your own rudimentary
chimney. This means that air tends to leaks on windy days. You’ll be surprised fan test by closing all windows and
enter the house at lower levels and exit to discover how many spots need to be doors and turning on all the exhaust
at the upper levels and ceiling. sealed with caulking or weatherstrip- appliances in the house, i.e., bathroom
ping. You should also check for possible and kitchen fans, clothes dryers (on cool
Identifying the specific leakage areas
leaks on the interior walls and features cycle) and any portable fan placed in a
can sometimes require a little detective
of your house. There may be a direct window (if you can seal around it). Be
work. You can hire a contractor who has
route through partition walls or along careful during the test. Turn off the fur-
the right equipment to do a test for you.
floor joists to the outside that should nace and water heater (if fuel-fired) to
Or you can do your own detective work
be sealed. prevent backdrafting caused by other
by making a “draft detector” and using
exhausting devices.
the checklist of leakage areas and per-
haps your own “pressure test” to locate Pressure Test You can now go around the house with
those places where air is leaking. Professional air-sealing companies often your leak detector and identify and
use a depressurizing fan test to identify mark the air-leakage locations that
and measure the air leaks in a house. A should be sealed.
powerful fan is inserted in a doorway, The rest of the chapter looks at caulking
and all intentional openings – windows, and installing air and vapour barriers.
doors, chimneys and vents – are closed See Chapter 7 for a discussion on weath-
or sealed. The fan depressurizes the erstripping windows and doors.
house and leaks are easily identified
46
Do-it-yourself pressure test Typical leakage areas
Checklist of Leakage Areas • cracks in the wall finish or ceiling; • attic access doors;
A few areas of the house deserve special • the joint where a wood frame wall • around chimneys;
attention, but don’t limit your detective joins a masonry wall or chimney;
work to just these places. • along any shared walls; and
• doors and hatches into
Checklist • the ceiling area over bathrooms
unheated attics;
and stairwells.
Inside the main living areas, check the
• fireplace dampers and
following: Inside the basement, check the following:
fireplace bricks;
• window-glass panes for tightness, and • where the wood-frame wall (sill
• behind bathtubs and under sinks;
around both the window sash and plate) meets the masonry (concrete
the window casing; • above sliding pocket doors; and or stone) foundation or where joists
penetrate the masonry wall;
• around the door, including the • around plumbing pipes and ductwork.
threshold and around the • any holes or gaps where the electrical
Inside the attic, check the following
door frame; lines, gas lines or oil fill pipes go
(you may have to move aside existing
through the wall (be careful!);
• electrical outlets, including ones on insulation):
interior walls; • holes for wiring and plumbing going
• around the plumbing stack and any
into external walls;
• exhaust fans and vents (these should other pipes entering the attic;
vent to the outside and close properly • leaky ducting or poorly fitted hot-air
• around wires or ceiling light fixtures
when not in use); registers or cold-air intakes;
that penetrate the attic floor;
• corners where two walls meet with an • around window and door framing;
• around ducting that enters the attic
imperfect seal;
from inside the house; • cracks in the foundation wall
• light fixtures in the ceiling; and slab; and
• at the junction of the ceiling with
• interior trim and baseboards; interior wall partitions; • floor drains.
47
Caulking Basics Caulking gun and tube

PART II
Use tubes of caulking compound and a
CAULKING AND caulking gun for most sealing jobs. Try
OTHER AIR-SEALING the grip with a tube in the gun before
2. Do not try to caulk in an area where
the temperature is below 5˚C (41˚F); the
MATERIALS buying. Some guns may have a trigger
compound will become stiff and difficult
spread that may be too large for your
Caulking to work with. Read labels carefully for
hand. The gun should have a shut-off. A
Air seal any cracks and storage and application temperatures.
thumb release on the gun is convenient
penetrations on the since it permits one-hand operation. 3. Make sure the area to be caulked is
inside surface of exterior clean and free of dirt, loose paint and
walls, ceilings or floors. If you are doing a complete job, you
old caulking. Replace deteriorated wood
Interior sealing will prevent air from will need many tubes of caulking –
and re-nail loose boards. If there are par-
escaping into hidden cavities in the one standard size tube will make a
ticularly large cracks – greater than
walls and roof. The sealing will be pro- bead 6 mm (1⁄4 in.) wide and 7.6 m
6 mm (1⁄4 in.) – use a special filler such
tected from the elements on the inside, (25 ft.) long.
as oakum or a foam backer rod before
and it will be easier to periodically There are several types of caulking caulking. Push this material into the
check its condition. Any moisture that compounds available. People often have crack to a depth equal to half of the
does reach that wall space, however, a bad experience when they first try crack width.
should be allowed to escape caulking because they purchase an
to the outside; otherwise, moisture 4. Cut the nozzle of the tube to a size
inexpensive or inappropriate caulking
problems might result. that will allow the bead of caulk to
compound. Cheap compounds are
overlap both sides of the crack. Make
It is not advisable to seal the outside difficult to apply and lack durability. Be
the cut square and then break the seal
surface of an exterior wall (i.e., the cold sure to choose a material well suited to
with a wire or long nail pushed down
side). Caulk only those cracks that will the task. See pages 33 to 35 for a guide
the nozzle.
allow water entry. If you are painting to the different types of caulking and
the house, try not to plug the joints in their application. 5. Push the caulking gun along at right
the siding and use a permeable (latex) angles to the crack or joint. The caulk is
How to Caulk – Step by Step
paint or stain. The outside of the walls then forced into the crack to fill the gap
1. Identify the areas to be caulked completely. Make sure the caulk adheres
must be left alone to breathe and (as outlined earlier in this chapter).
dispel moisture. to both sides of the crack and that there
is sufficient caulk to allow for movement
or shrinkage.
48
Note: If you plan to caulk around items

that are a source of heat (chimney, light
fixtures, fan motors, etc.), be sure to use a
heat-resistant caulking compound. Silicone
or polysulphide sealants usually work well.
Special high-temperature silicones are
available for flue pipes.
Installing a polyethylene air and vapour barrier:

1) first sheet over a solid member
Laying a bead of caulking 2) bead of acoustical caulking
3) second sheet pressed into bead
4) staples through bead
6. The seal should also be neat. 5) wallboard or batten for mechanical support
Effective caulking takes practice, so go
slowly at first, following instructions on
Other Sealing Materials and Air and Vapour Barriers
the tube. “Tooling,” or finishing the
bead, can usually be done with a wetted Applications It is often possible to install a new air
sponge or finger before the caulk sets, A number of other materials are used to and vapour barrier using sealed drywall
but do not use your mouth to wet provide an air barrier at different locations as the air barrier and layers of paint or
your finger! in the house. These include specialty gas- sheet polyethylene as the vapour barrier.
kets and tapes, as well as sheet materials Alternatively, sealed sheet polyethylene
7. Latex and silicone caulk can be can be installed on the warm side of the
such as polyethylene, spun-bonded
cleaned off with water before they set. insulation to provide both an air barrier
olefin, rigid insulation, drywall, ply-
For other caulks, you can try a standard and a vapour barrier. Proper installation
wood and sheet metal. Installation tech-
solvent (e.g., toluene, varsol or brush- is critical (see illustration above).
niques are critical when using sheet
cleaning solvent) or check the manufac-
materials as an air barrier. All edges, • Use wide sheets to minimize seams.
turer’s literature. Be sure to release the
seams and penetrations in the sheets
pressure lever on the gun to prevent caulk • All seams and edges should overlap
must be sealed. Further details are
from dripping as you move from place over a solid backing, such as a stud.
provided in other chapters.
to place.
49
Sealing electrical outlets Sealing behind window trim
• Run a bead of non-hardening Tips on Sealing Some of the If you are installing an electrical outlet
acoustical sealant between the over- Leakiest Areas during a renovation, get a good seal by
lapped sheets over the support. Electrical Outlets placing it in a special plastic box that is
available from many hardware or electri-
• Staple through the sheets and the If you notice a draft through an outside
cal supply stores. Caulk the penetration
bead of sealant. All other staples wall electrical outlet, it must be sealed.
for the wire, and seal the new air and
should be avoided or minimized. (Some inside wall outlets can also pro-
vapour barrier to the edge of the box.
vide leakage paths, so do check them.)
• The finish (e.g., drywall) acts as an
Turn off the power to the outlet by Trim Areas (Baseboards, Mouldings
anchor, securing the seam. If the
turning off the circuit breaker or remov- and Window and Door Casings)
polyethylene is recessed in the wall, a
ing the fuse. Check to make sure the Seal areas of air leakage around all trim.
batten can be nailed over the seam to
power is disconnected by turning on a In some cases, this can be done easily by
provide mechanical support.
lamp. There are special foam pads, sealing all the joints with a flexible caulk
• Seal all penetrations. Where possible, approved by CSA International, that fit that is clear, paintable or of a matching
they should penetrate at a solid back- between the cover plate and receptacles. colour. A more effective solution for
ing such as plywood and be caulked. You will obtain a better seal if you caulk leaky or poorly fitted trim is to carefully
the gasket before installation. Place remove the trim and seal behind it.
child safety plugs in seldom-used out- Insulate wide cracks with a foam backer
lets. Some foam pads come with a gas- rod and seal them with caulking,
ket that fits on the safety plug. polyurethane foam or other suitable
material.
50
Duct for outside combustion air for fireplace High-temperature caulking should be used to air
(fireplace plug also shown) seal the metal enclosure around the chimney
If baseboards are removed, you might Fireplaces You can also seal off an unused fire-
also be able to caulk between the wall A crackling fire makes a room cosy, but place. Close it up by putting an airtight
finish and the bottom wall plates and what happens when the fireplace is not plug of some sort in the chimney or
between the plates and the floor. in use? If the damper is left open, warm across the fireplace opening. This can be
air from the room shoots up the chim- made from board material that is cloth-
Glass Panes
ney. When the fireplace is not in use, covered and provides a good seal at the
The seal between glass and its wood edges (see diagram above left).
close the damper. Take a flashlight and
frame should be tight. Check the glaz-
make sure the damper fits tightly. If it Check for any air leaks where the chim-
ing carefully and be certain that all the
doesn’t, fix it yourself or have it repaired. ney meets the wall (remove the trim if
seals are intact, with no cracks or miss-
ing sections. If not, repair them with Even with the damper closed, a great necessary). Caulk this joint with a
putty or glazing compound. Putty usu- deal of heat still escapes up the chimney. flexible caulk.
ally costs less, but tends to dry out and Commercially available glass doors for Chimney
crack faster, unless you put linseed oil fireplaces are usually not very tight
There may be a large gap where a
on the wood first. A glazing compound, or effective. Ideally, you should also
masonry chimney rises through the
on the other hand, lasts longer and stays install an outside combustion air duct
attic. This space can be partially sealed
semi-soft and usable longer. Remove the to the fireplace to improve operation,
by stuffing it tightly with pieces of min-
old putty and apply the new materials efficiency and safety. Ask at your local
eral wool batt. Do not use any material
with a putty knife. Be sure to press it building-supply outlet or wood-burning
that is, or may become, flammable.
firmly into the space for a good seal. appliance dealer if a kit is available.
For greater effectiveness, cut pieces of
sheet metal to fit around the chimney.
Seal all the joints with a flexible, heat-
resistant sealant (see diagram above
right).
51
If you have a factory-built metal chim-

ney rising through the attic, do not
insulate closer than 50 mm (2 in.) as
this can create hot spots in the chimney
lining and can present a fire hazard.
Instead, install a collar of metal or other
fire-resistant material around the chim-
ney and caulk to prevent air leakage into
the attic.
Attic Hatch
Seal the attic hatch exactly as you would Cutaway view of a well-sealed attic hatch
seal a door to the outside. Caulk around
the frame and between the casing and
Windows That Are Never Opened Mail and Milk Chutes
the ceiling plaster board. Apply weather-
stripping along the edges of either the If you don’t need a window for ventila- Seal the chute if it is no longer in use.
casing or the access panel itself. tion or as a possible emergency escape If you use it regularly, seal around the
route, seal it by caulking rather than frame and replace the weatherstripping.
Finally, install hooks with eye bolts or weatherstripping. Caulking is likely to If the chute cover is on a spring, make
some sort of latch mechanism to hold be quicker, cheaper and more effective. sure it closes properly. A drop of oil can
the hatch firmly against the weather- Install a special strippable caulk that can sometimes work wonders or, if neces-
stripping. The hatch itself should be be removed when you want to operate sary, replace the spring. Alternatively,
insulated. the window again. you can buy a new cover. Consider
closing your mail chute permanently
and replacing it with an outside
mailbox.
52
Contracting the Work

Homeowners can usually do an effective
air-sealing job if they have the time and
patience and are conscientious about air
sealing in areas that can be difficult and
uncomfortable to work in (e.g., the
attic). However, professional air sealers
can usually do a much better job
because of their experience in locating
and sealing leaks. Contractors may be
experienced in using a depressurizing
fan door (sometimes called a “blower
door”) with smoke pencils and with
specialty caulking and sealants.
Another service that many air-sealing
companies can offer is testing and
assessment of ventilation and com-
bustion air requirements, including
backdrafting testing.
Typically, professional whole-house air
sealing can cost from $500 to $2,000
depending on the size and complexity
of the house and work required. The
contract should specify each area to be
sealed and the materials to be used.
53
4 Roofs and Attics
Keeping the Heat In
Adding more insulation is only half the

battle. Even if an attic is already insu-
lated, there may still be an opportunity
to improve the energy efficiency and
soundness of the house through air seal-
ing. Air leaks into the attic through the
many cracks and penetrations can
account for substantial heat loss and can
lead to a variety of moisture-related
problems. The importance of air seal-
ing cannot be overstated.
This chapter examines methods for
insulating and air sealing a variety of
INTRODUCTION attic types.
When you think of adding insulation, • Part I examines some general condi-
the attic is the first place that generally tions that apply to most attics.
comes to mind. Relatively easy access
and few obstructions have made the • Part II deals with easily accessible
attic a favourite starting point for many attics.
homeowners, despite the fact that most • Part III deals with houses with a half
other areas – such as basements and storey.
uninsulated walls – lose more heat than
the typical attic. • Part IV describes retrofit work in
inaccessible attics, cathedral ceilings
and flat roofs.
• Part V deals with renovation where
the attic is converted into living
space, a new roof is added or where
the interior is to be refinished.
54
Keeping the Heat In 4 Roofs and Attics
General Easily Accessible Houses with Special Renovations

Considerations Attics Half Storeys Cases and Repair
Part I Part II Part III Part IV Part V
Assessments attic during or just after a rain storm

PART I will help determine whether moisture
GENERAL Check the condition of the roof framing,
sheathing, finish and the soffit and fas- problems are generated by interior or
CONSIDERATIONS cia for signs of moisture problems such exterior sources.
FOR ALL ATTICS as leaks, stains, mould, flaking or rot.
Unchecked moisture problems will Wiring
Whichever attic or
reduce the effectiveness of your insula-
ceiling type your house Check that any electrical runs in the
tion and can lead to structural damage
has, there are a number attic are in good condition. Any wires
such as wood rot or split rafters. Mould,
of things to examine with frayed or torn insulation will have
mildew, fungal growth or rot are sure
before beginning work. to be replaced before insulating. Make
signs of advanced condensation prob-
A thorough inspection of the following sure electrical connections are free of
lems. The cause will have to be identi-
features will help you develop your rust and corrosion. Work safely around
fied and fixed before adding insulation.
retrofit strategy. electrical wiring, better still, hire a
Moisture can come from the outside professional contractor.
due to failure of the roof or flashing.
Accessibility Standard recessed lights are difficult
Typical problem areas include poor
Most houses with accessible attics have to seal effectively and can become a
flashing at a hip, valley or the chimney.
an interior ceiling hatch, although an fire hazard if covered with insulation.
Pay particular attention to water marks
exterior roof or wall-mounted entry is However, there are airlight recessed
on the underside of the sheathing or
not uncommon. The hatch should be fixtures approved by CSA Inter-
along rafters.
large enough to allow you to bring in national that can be installed safely
materials. If this is not the case or if there Moisture can also come from inside the under an insulated attic.
is no access, then an entry should be house, carried into the attic as water
Examine the existing insulation for:
installed. Exterior-mounted entries repre- vapour by air leakage. Typical problem
sent one less opening that will have to be areas occur around bathroom and • condition (dry, wet, compact, etc.);
air sealed. However, interior hatches are kitchen vents that penetrate the ceiling,
• type;
more practical if you want to inspect the around plumbing stacks and chimney
attic during the winter months. chases, and at wiring penetrations and • average depth; and
pot lights.
Check the roof space for obstructions • coverage.
and ease of movement. Vertical clearances Check the attic in late winter for con-
If the insulation has been damaged or is
of less than 1 m (39 in.) won’t let you densation buildup, which will appear as
likely to pose a health risk, it should be
move freely. Attics or roofs without a frost in cold climates. Checking your
working space are covered on pages
67 to 69.
55
Some attics are easier to work in than others.
removed. If it is wet, don’t cover it until areas will cause a cold spot where the However, very few houses have an effec-
the source of moisture is removed and wall and ceiling meet, which can lead tive air barrier, although some houses
the insulation is dry. to moisture problems. If you are blow- built in the last decade may be tighter.
ing in loose fill, install depth indicators If there is an air barrier, your job will be
If the insulation is dry, it will probably
(e.g., a piece of wood nailed perpendic- made much simpler. Locate the barrier
be all right to leave it in place.
ular to a joist) throughout the area to be and determine its condition. Remember,
Generally, there is little problem in
insulated to ensure a consistent depth of an air barrier must be continuous; holes
using two different types of insulation.
application. or tears will have to be repaired, and
Check the depth of the insulation to penetrations through the barrier will
determine its insulating value. Compare have to be sealed.
Existing Air and Vapour Barriers
this with the recommended insulation
Most houses have a vapour barrier on Increased insulation means a colder
values on page 13.
the warm side of the insulation. In attic, which in turn means that any
Check to make sure that the insulation newer houses, a polyethylene sheet usu- vapour that does escape into the attic
is distributed evenly and that there is ally serves as the barrier. In older homes, can condense before it can be vented. It
full depth coverage. This is particularly the vapour barrier might have been pro- is essential to air seal the attic to prevent
important around the perimeter of the vided by wax paper, kraft paper-backed moisture from getting in.
attic above the wall plates. Uninsulated batts or layers of paint.
56
Attics have many potential air-leakage paths.
If there is no air barrier, concentrate Be sure to seal the following: damage the plastic or rubber coating
your efforts on comprehensive air on electrical wiring. Electrical stores
• Around the plumbing stack and
sealing. You can create an effective air carry a putty-like sealant specifically
any other pipes entering the attic.
barrier by using caulking, gaskets for use on electrical wiring.
Since the plumbing stack moves up
and weatherstripping to seal the joints
and down due to thermal expansion, • Around ducting that enters the attic
between building components.
the seal must be airtight yet allow from inside the house; for example,
Air Sealing for movement. This can be accom- kitchen exhaust fans, bathroom
One sure sign of leakage of warm air plished by using a rubber gasket, a vents, etc. Seal joints in the ductwork
from the house is stained insulation or plywood collar in conjunction with with duct tape. Seal the gaps where
frost in the winter. The staining is the an expansion joint, or a sleeve made ducts penetrate the ceiling alumi-
result of dirt that has been trapped by of polyethylene. num. It is especially important that
the insulation as air escapes from the no exhaust fans discharge into the
• Around wires or ceiling light fix-
house. Sealing tips for common sources attic. They should discharge to the
tures that penetrate the attic floor.
of air leakage are described below. It outside, but not directly below the
Seal holes where wires penetrate
may help to make a map of where the eave vents. The ducts should
partition-wall top plates with a
light fixtures and walls are before you stay below the insulation or should
compatible sealant. Some sealants
go up. be wrapped with insulation.
57
• At the junction of the ceiling and • Along the edge of shared walls. of vent area to ceiling area should be
interior wall partitions. Pull back There is often a gap between the approximately 1 to 300. Do not auto-
the insulation to locate any cracks party wall (i.e., the shared wall matically increase ventilation. Creating
that have formed along interior walls. between units in duplexes, triplexes a tight ceiling is a far more effective way
Seal the cracks with a caulking com- and row houses) and the edge of the of eliminating moisture problems.
pound. This area will not usually attic floor. Ensure that this gap is
Electric exhaust fans are not recom-
pose a problem if the interior ceiling well plugged.
mended for attic ventilation. An electric
has been plastered.
exhaust can draw more air than can be
• At the top of interior and exterior Ventilation supplied through the soffit vents. This
walls. Check to see if all wall cavities Attic ventilation serves a number of pur- will actually pull house air into the attic,
are blocked from the attic (usually by poses: it reduces summer heat buildup; resulting in greater heat loss and mois-
a top plate). If the spaces have been after air sealing, it is your second line of ture accumulation.
left or cut open, install a piece of defence against water vapour that may The location of vents is as important as
rigid board insulation in the exposed have found its way into the attic; and it their number and type. The following
cavity. Remember to caulk the edges ensures a colder, well-vented attic space sections detail the best approach,
of the rigid board. If the top plate is that will be less prone to the formation depending on your attic type.
cracked or poorly fitted, use caulking of ice dams at the eaves.
and polyethylene to create a tight seal. Remember, vents are important but
Make sure that existing attic vents are they will not prevent condensation on
• Around attic hatches. Attic hatches working properly and that they are not their own. Ventilation alone will not
are an obvious but frequently over- blocked by insulation, dirt or other solve the problems created by air
looked source of air leakage and heat materials. You may have to locate roof or leakage. Air sealing is your first line
loss. See page 52 for details. soffit vents from outside if they are not of defence.
• Around the chimney. The National clearly visible from inside the attic.
Building Code of Canada requires that Although an airtight ceiling will signifi-
air spaces between chimneys and floor cantly reduce the likelihood of moisture
or ceiling assemblies through which in the attic, building codes still require
they pass be sealed with a non-com- minimum attic ventilation. The ratio
bustible firestop. See page 52
for details.
58
PART II
EASILY ACCESSIBLE
ATTICS
After you have inspected
the attic and carried
out any remedial
work, focus on air
and moisture control,
insulation and ventilation.
Air and Moisture Control

There are three options for installing an
Installation of polyethylene sheets over attic joists. Note the use of rigid foam
air-barrier system in an unfinished attic: boards at the eaves.
• concentrate on air sealing;
• install polyethylene over the joists; or Concentrating on Air Sealing Also, look for other opportunities to seal
Where and how to air seal is discussed air leaks into the attic.
• install polyethylene between the
joists. also in Chapter 3.
In conjunction with a comprehensive air- Installing Sheet Material
Of the three, the first is the most
sealing job, it is a good idea to paint the Over the Joists
practical, since the installation of a poly-
ethylene air and vapour barrier in an room side of the ceiling with two coats of If the attic is unobstructed with chim-
existing attic is fraught with obstruc- oil-based paint or a single coat of latex neys, plumbing stacks or structural mem-
tions and requires painstaking attention vapour-barrier paint to further inhibit bers, and warm, moist air is penetrating
to detail. vapour movement. Remember, however, the attic from the house, consider
that ordinary latex paint is not a suitable installing polyethylene directly over the
If the attic retrofit is being completed in vapour barrier existing ceiling joists. This method
conjunction with interior renovations,
Check the attic during or just after a cold involves the least number of seams and
the easiest approach is to install a new
snap in the winter months. Some frost requires less caulking and stapling than
air barrier on the underside of the ceil-
buildup is to be expected, but if it is par- other methods. It also allows you to leave
ing joists. Pages 70 to 72 outline two
ticularly heavy, check to make sure that existing insulation in place. Seal all obvi-
approaches to this technique.
ventilation is adequate. ous air-leakage paths before laying down
the polyethylene.
59
Polyethylene strips are laid between the joists as an air and Baffles can be used to maintain airflow through the
vapour barrier. soffit vents.
To avoid trapping moisture between the the polyethylene to the horizontal rigid caulking on the side of the joists all
plastic and the wood – leading to possi- board. Carefully caulk any joints or along their length and install the
ble wood rot or other moisture-related seams between materials. Expanding polyethylene, holding it in place with a
problems – install at least twice the two-part spray foam kits are also useful series of staples (see illustration above left).
insulating value over top of the air- for sealing areas around joists and
Remember, any obstructions in the
vapour barrier (the one-third–two-thirds boards.
attic, such as electrical wires or pipes,
rule). This means, for example, if the
will require cuts in the barrier. These
joist height is 89 mm (3 1⁄2 in.) and
Installing Sheet Material Between will need to be carefully sealed to
contains RSI 2.1 (R-12), at least RSI 4.2
the Joists make the barrier continuous.
(R-24) must be installed over top of
the barrier. Where obstructions such as a truss roof
make the previous method too difficult, Installing Insulation
The main difficulty with this technique install a polyethylene air barrier between
involves sealing the barrier to the wall The most common materials for use in
the joists. This is a lengthy, painstaking
top plate, especially at the eaves where an accessible attic are batt/blanket types
process, so make sure you have plenty
there is little room to manoeuvre. or loose-fill insulation. In some circum-
of patience.
stances, it may be a good idea to use a
It is essential to seal this area as well. If there is no insulation in the attic, your combination of types. If there are a lot
Rigid board insulation can help to job is simplified. If there is insulation in of obstructions above the joists, such as
bridge the gap in this area. Cut rigid the attic, it will have to be removed with a truss roof, it may be easiest to
board to fit between the ceiling joists from the area you are working on and put batt insulation into the joist spaces
and to extend from the exterior wall top set to one side. Cut strips of the poly- and then use loose fill to create a com-
plate toward the attic. A second piece of ethylene about 200 mm (8 in.) wider plete blanket of insulation above the
rigid insulation, installed vertically, joins than the joist spacing. Lay a bead of joists and around all obstructions.
60
The top layer of insulation runs perpendicular to the

Fitting insulation around cross-bracing. bottom layer.
On the other hand, if some spaces are space of 38 to 50 mm (1 1⁄2 to 2 in.) the joists (see illustration above
irregular or obstructed, it may be easiest between the top of the insulation and right). Ensure that there are no gaps
to use loose fill. You will have to choose the underside of the roof sheathing. between the two layers of insulation.
the insulation types most appropriate To prevent this space from being
• Fill any awkward spaces or gaps
to your situation; refer to the summary blocked, use baffles between each
with pieces of batt or with loose-fill
of insulation types on pages 26 to 31. rafter space (see illustration at right
insulation.
on page 60).
Batt or Blanket Insulation
• Blanket insulation basically is applied
Batt insulation is simply pressed into • Insulate snugly around cross-bracing
in the same way as batts. It may be
place between the ceiling joists. If you as illustrated above left (avoid cutting
pre-cut with a knife or cut on the
purchased the correct width, it will fit the air barrier). Alternatively, you
spot. Start at one end of the attic and
snugly. However, if your joist space is can cut one batt into a series of
simply unroll the blanket.
not the standard 16 or 24 inches, extra wedges and then fit a wedge under
labour will be required to cut and fit each brace. Loose-Fill Insulation
batts properly. Loose-fill insulation is an • The first layer of batts should be • Loose-fill insulation can be poured
option worth considering in this situa- thick enough to completely fill to the by hand or blown in either by the
tion. The following are some other instal- top of the joist space. The second homeowner with rented equipment
lation tips: layer can then run in the opposite or by a qualified contractor.
• Butt the ends of batts together as direction, across the joists, blocking
snugly as possible. any heat flow through and around
• Batts should cover the top plate of

the exterior wall but not block the
venting. To maintain airflow, leave a
61
Installing loose-fill insulation (note the markers indi-

cating final depth of insulation.) Cutaway view of a well-sealed attic hatch
• Loose-fill insulation can be poured cardboard or foam plastic baffles that and the contractor should then agree
on top of the air and vapour barrier. can be stapled between the rafters. In on the total number of bags to be
Level it with a board or garden rake, any case, be sure that the insulation used, the expected insulating value
as illustrated above left. It’s best to extends out far enough to cover the and the minimum settled depth of
add insulation to a depth greater top of the exterior wall. insulation throughout the attic.
than the height of the joists. This
• If your loose fill is deeper than the
extra thickness makes levelling a bit
joists, build a crib around the attic Additional Tips
difficult but is worth it. Nail vertical
hatch so that it can be filled to • You can insulate and/or seal around a
strips of wood to the side of some of
the edge. masonry chimney, but before you
the joists to help you gauge the depth
of the insulation. Maintain an even • The bags of insulation material will start, you must check the state of the
depth throughout the attic. list how many square metres (or chimney and any surrounding fram-
square feet) each bag should fill in ing. If you see signs of charring,
• Pour the insulation to fill all nooks smoke/soot deposits, crumbling
order to give the required RSI value.
and crannies. masonry or mortar, or if you see evi-
Knowing the size of the attic will
• At the eaves, take care to keep the help you determine the number of dence that the chimney lining is
insulation from blocking the ventila- bags you will need. deteriorating, do not insulate it. Call
tion or from disappearing into the a chimney specialist to repair and
• If you are having a contractor do the insulate it at the same time. If your
eaves space. A piece of rigid board
work, calculate the RSI value that chimney is in good condition, you
insulation, or a wood baffle, should
you want and check the bags of insu- can fill the space between a masonry
be installed before the work begins.
lation to be used. They should indi- chimney and the wood frame around
Some building-supply stores now sell
cate the area that one bag will cover it with non-combustible insulation
at the selected insulating value. You that is certified to the appropriate
62
must be increased because the vents are

covered with screening (to keep out
insects, etc.) and with baffles (to keep
out rain and snow).
Ideally, locate vents to allow for good
cross ventilation from end to end and
from top to bottom. This means placing
Different types of ventilation: vents at the eaves and at the peak. The
1) soffit vents 3) ridge vent
2) gable end vent 4) roof vent
drawing at left shows three types of
vents: on the ridge, at the gable end and
near the peak of the roof. Any of these
CSA International standard. Then air core of the wall will transfer heat to are adequate when used in conjunction
seal over the insulation with a non- your attic (see pages 65 and 66 for with under-eave (soffit) vents.
flammable material such as sheet details on complications in attics). Fifty percent of the ventilation area
metal and high temperature caulking should be continuous soffit vents and
• Do not cover recessed light fixtures,
(see diagram on page 51). Make sure the other fifty percent should be gable,
and be careful not to insulate too
that this is an application that is ridge or roof vents. Ridge vents are
closely around flue pipes and gas
specified by the manufacturer. Leave preferable where practical, but they
vents. Insulation will tend to cause
50 mm (2 in.) of space around fac- must be equipped with baffles to deflect
heat buildup and create a potential
tory-built metal chimneys to prevent wind blowing up the roof and to pre-
fire hazard.
any heat buildup that might create a vent the penetration of water and snow.
fire hazard. This space should be Occasionally, a house will have been
sealed against air leakage (see page 52 Ventilation built with no airflow between the soffits
for details). Houses with peaked roofs and accessible and the attic space. In this case, install
• Don’t forget to seal the attic hatch attic spaces are the easiest to vent. The vents at opposite ends of the attic to
(see page 52). amount of attic ventilation is directly take advantage of cross ventilation.
related to the size of the ceiling area in
• If you live in a row house and share a the building. In most cases, the ratio of
concrete-block wall with your neigh- unobstructed, free ventilation area to
bour, this wall should also be insu- ceiling area should be approximately
lated; otherwise the convection 1 to 300. Because this ratio refers to
currents that circulate in the hollow unobstructed ventilation areas, the area
63
Knee wall
The wall and floor sections of a half storey should

be insulated. It is important to air seal under the knee wall.
PART III Air and Vapour Control Ventilation

HOUSES WITH Where you have access to the attic Ventilate the attic spaces above and
space, follow the directions for the con- beside the top storey separately by using
HALF STOREYS trol of air and vapour flows as outlined gable vents. Make sure that the vents
Houses with one-and-a- on pages 59 and 60. Concentrate prevent wind from blowing through
half or two-and-a-half on sealing all air-leakage paths into the insulation.
storeys have attics with the attic.
A second option is to use gable vents in
several small sections One major source of air leakage that the area above the attic ceiling and eave
that sometimes make cannot be overlooked is through the vents in the side areas. This is a good
access and insulating difficult. If you ceiling joists immediately beneath the option if the house already has working
cannot get into these spaces to work, knee walls. Prevent air leakage in this eaves vents (see diagram at left on page
you may have to hire a contractor. If the area by filling the space with a rigid 65). A ventilation space in the rafter sec-
space is accessible, the following section insulation board, installed flush with the tion will permit airflow between the
gives some guidelines on how to do the back of the knee-wall finish. Seal the insulated areas. Otherwise, you will have
work yourself. edges of the insulation as thoroughly as to install air channels in the section
possible. Sprayed polyurethane may also along the rafters to ensure adequate venti-
be practical for controlling airflow into lation (see diagrams at right on page 65).
this space.
64
Ventilation occurs between sections via air channels

Each section has its own cross ventilation. installed in the rafter section.
These channels must be on the cold • The knee wall can be treated like an Other Complications
side of the space, which then can be unfinished attic floor (see page 59), Wall of Heated Room
filled with insulation. making allowances for the fact that it
Some houses have a wall in the attic that
is vertical. Install a combination air
adjoins a heated space. Insulate it as you
and vapour barrier made from poly-
Insulation would a knee wall.
ethylene strips sealed between each
Theoretically, a rigid foam insulation stud. The air barrier also can be Shared Wall
could be used; however, batts are less created by sealing all cracks and Semi-detached or row houses that share
expensive and easier to handle in con- penetrations and painting a vapour a concrete-block wall will lose heat into
fined spaces. If there are any electrical barrier on the interior surface. Next, the attic because concrete is a good
outlets (careful!) or pipes in the knee install the insulation and secure it in conductor of heat, and air circulates
wall, make sure that you keep them on place. This can be done with friction- inside (and through) this wall. Ideally,
the warm side of the air and vapour bar- fit batts or by securing the insulation the shared wall should be plugged at
rier and insulation, and seal the air and with building paper, cardboard, the ceiling level by having a contractor
vapour barrier around them. olefin sheets or string or wire. One drill holes and inject small amounts of
• Treat the attic floor behind the knee inch of rigid board insulation nailed polyurethane foam into the blocks. In
wall and the attic space over the half to the exterior side of the studs can many cases, this will not be possible or
storey’s ceiling (see diagrams above) also be used to hold the batt insula- economical. If there is a wood-frame
exactly as described previously for tion in place (see diagram on page party (shared) wall at the top of the
standard, unfinished attics. 66). This will increase the thermal block wall, air seal the junction at the
resistance of the wall section and top of the block wall.
• The end walls are the full-height reduce thermal bridging.
walls that are exposed to the exterior.
Treat these with blown insulation, • The section in the rafters may be
exactly as described in Chapter 6. filled with insulation if all penetra-
tions through the ceiling are sealed
and if this is permitted by local
building codes or standards.
65
Alternatively, a contractor can fill the

sub-floor space completely by blowing
in loose-fill insulation through access
holes. Air leaks, such as around plumb-
ing stacks, should be sealed first. To
ensure that the space is filled completely
Extra rigid insulation can be nailed over the studs of the and at the right density, you and the
knee-wall section. contractor should agree on the insulat-
ing value to be achieved and the total
number of bags of insulation to be used.
The next best alternative is to insulate Dormer Windows
both sides of the exterior surface of the Before insulating, either you or the con-
Many one-and-a-half or two-and-a-half
shared wall in the attic. Paint the wall tractor should check for damaged or
storey houses also have dormer win-
first with an impermeable concrete frayed wiring, recessed light fixtures or
dows. The walls of the dormer may be
paint or cover it with polyethylene. other sources of heat that may be con-
insulated with batts, as described for the
Next, tightly secure a layer of insulation cealed beneath the floorboards. All heat
knee wall. Remember that the air and
to the wall. The wall normally goes sources must be protected from the
vapour barrier should be on the warm
through the roof line and is plugged. insulation or removed entirely.
side of the insulation and be sealed at all
However, if there is space at the top of joints and corners. You will not likely be able to achieve the
the wall between the concrete blocks minimum recommended levels for attic
and the roof, or if there are any gaps, The remaining walls and the dormer
insulation by filling this space alone. It
they should be plugged and covered ceiling are much more difficult to
might be worthwhile to add some insu-
with insulation material. insulate. The easiest solution is to have
lation over the floorboards to keep them
insulation blown in. Remember to seal
warm and reduce thermal bridging
any ceiling fixtures or penetrations.
through the joists.
Floorboards
Some houses will have the attic floored
over, even when it’s not used as a living
space. You can insulate it by lifting the
floorboards and treating it as you would
an unfinished attic. Some or all of the
boards may have to be replaced to
maintain the stiffness of the ceiling.
66
If you choose to have insulation blown Ensure that the contractor prevents
PART IV in, calculate the RSI value that you insulation from entering the eaves and
SPECIAL CASES expect to achieve and check the bags of blocking the ventilation. If there are
If the attic is both insulation to be used. They should any recessed light fixtures or other
cramped and without a indicate what area one bag will cover at sources of heat in the attic, make sure
hatch, all is not lost. the selected RSI value. You and the con- precautions are taken to avoid creating a
You may be able to cut tractor should then agree on the total fire hazard.
a hole in the ceiling in an number of bags, the expected RSI value
Finally, if there are any walls in the attic
out-of-the-way place, such as a closet, or and the minimum depth of insulation
space it is unlikely that they can be
you may be able to gain access through to be achieved throughout the attic.
insulated by blown-in fill. Consult your
either existing or new outside vents. There will likely be no way of installing contractor for details.
If you discover that the attic is cramped a new sheet-material air barrier. If one
Ventilating cramped attics can be diffi-
but large enough to work in, follow the does not already exist, it should still be
cult because of the limited space and
instructions on pages 59 to 63. If, on acceptable to install insulation if the
the difficulty of creating an adequate
the other hand, there really is no free following conditions are met (even if a
airflow. Where the roof extends over the
space at all above the ceiling joists, barrier is present, these points are
exterior walls, it may be possible to use
read on. worthwhile to consider):
soffit vents in combination with roof
• There is no evidence of moisture vents or build-up ridge vents.
How to Insulate an Attic That Is problems.
Many houses with cramped attic spaces
Too Cramped to Work In • Humidity levels in the house are rea- lack eaves. In such cases, approach venti-
Basically you have two choices. It may sonable (see Chapter 1). lation with caution. The best approach
be possible to insulate outside the is to carefully seal the ceiling below
• Any air leaks through the ceiling into
building on top of the existing roof the attic from inside the house, and
the attic are sealed.
(see pages 72 to 73), or it may be then insulate without installing addi-
possible to have a contractor blow in You can achieve added protection by tional vents.
loose-fill insulation. Choose the painting the ceiling below the attic with
contractor with care – make sure that a coat of latex vapour-barrier paint or
the firm has experience in this type two coats of oil-based paint.
of situation.
67
Cathedral ceilings and flat roofs are difficult to

Flat roof insulate and still maintain a ventilation space.
If possible, check the roof space for Cathedral Ceilings and Flat Roofs However, if you decide it is worth your
moisture problems during or just after a A house (or any portion of a house) with while to increase insulation levels, there
cold snap in January or February. Some a flat roof, cathedral ceiling or some other are a number of options. Each option
frost is to be expected, but if the “attic-less” construction is likely to be a involves some risk of either moisture
buildup is especially heavy, you will have difficult case and will require the services problems or thermal bridges that can
to consider ventilating the space and of a qualified contractor. reduce the effectiveness of the insula-
work even harder at locating and sealing tion. A technique involving blown
all air leaks and reducing humidity levels The main problem with these roofs is insulation is discussed below. Pages 70
in the house. the limited space for insulation and ven- to 73 discuss both interior and exterior
tilation. If fact, if there is already some retrofits, including the addition of a
In any event, it is advisable to check insulation in the joist space, adding new roof.
with local building authorities to deter- more may not be economical.
mine which procedures are permitted in
your area.
68
The existing space between the ceiling If you choose to fill the interior of a
and roof can be blown full of loose-fill flat roof or cathedral ceiling, the most
insulation by a contractor. Since this appropriate material is probably cellu-
eliminates ventilation, it is generally not lose fibre blown in to a high density
recommended. Take extra care to make (56 to 72 kg/m3 or 3 1⁄2 to 4 1⁄2 lb./cu. ft.).
sure that air leaks into the ceiling are The contractor should calculate and
sealed from below. This is difficult confirm the density for each roof cavity.
because wiring and plumbing usually The high density of the insulation –
puncture the ceiling in a number of combined with comprehensive air seal-
places. Moreover, the partition walls ing – should reduce airflow sufficiently
may not be completely blocked off at to avoid condensation problems.
the top, allowing large amounts of air to
flow through the interior walls into the
ceiling. Where the interior walls are
completely open to the ceiling, there is
no easy solution unless you are prepared
to have your interior walls blown full of
insulation and sealed along all trim, out-
lets and other penetrations.
69
Collar beams (collar ties) provide

• Ensure that the insulation to be additional support.
PART V installed in the rafter spaces will fit
RENOVATIONS snugly against the top of the walls to • Finally, staple a continuous poly-
AND REPAIR form a continuous thermal envelope. ethylene air and vapour barrier to
There must be no gaps around the the rafters and end-wall studs, taking
Renovations or repairs
perimeter of the attic floor; other- care to seal the edges and seams with
provide an opportunity
wise, heat will escape and ice acoustical sealant.
to ensure a well-insu-
damming may occur near the eaves.
lated attic ceiling and • If your attic room is not too cramped,
In most cases, it should be possible
walls with an effective air consider building onto the rafters and
to insulate each rafter space all the
and vapour barrier. studs to allow for more insulation (up
way down to the eaves over the top of
the exterior wall. to the recommended minimum level
Attics to Be Finished and Heated for attic insulation, if possible). After
When insulating each rafter space, leave installing insulation in the existing
A popular renovation activity is to con- a clear space between the top of the spaces, nail 38 mm x 38 mm (2 x 2)
vert an existing unfinished attic into a insulation and the underside of the roof strapping perpendicular to the rafters
new living space. This can be as simple sheathing to allow for roof ventilation. and studs. Space the strapping to suit
as insulating and drywalling the existing Check for local code requirements. the width of the insulation you will
space. It can also be as complicated as
Warm air under the attic floorboards use. However, the strapping should
adding new floor joists, lifting part
will still be able to bypass this insula- be no more than 600 mm (24 in.)
of the roof for more headroom, and
tion. To prevent this, you will have to apart – measured on centre – or you
installing a stairway.
block and seal the joist spaces along the will have difficulty attaching the inte-
Depending on the depth of the rafter perimeter of the attic floor. If the floor- rior finish. Fit insulation snugly
space, it may also be difficult to achieve boards can be temporarily lifted, fill the between the strapping, covering all
the high RSI values recommended for space between the joists with a piece of the rafters and studs. Finally, staple a
attic insulation. If you choose to finish low-permeability rigid board insulation continuous, sealed polyethylene air
your attic, take the following steps: and seal it to the joists. If the floor- and vapour barrier to the strapping.
• Install collar beams (collar ties) boards are not easily lifted, it may be
between every pair of rafters, as possible to spray polyurethane between
illustrated above. These will provide the joists along the perimeter from the
structural support for both the roof rafter space beyond the floorboards.
and the new ceiling.
70
Extending the rafters provides space for insulation

Cross-strapping provides space to add more insulation. and ventilation.
• Insulation between the collar beams • Construct a new ceiling immediately • Existing rafters can be extended to
is applied from below in much the below the existing ceiling. If the roof accommodate additional insulation.
same way, with a continuous poly- has exposed joists or beams (usually This can be done by cross-strapping
ethylene air and vapour barrier for decorative purposes), it may be the existing rafters or by extending
applied last. If the collar beams have possible to close the space in, creat- the rafter cavity with 38 mm x 89 mm
already been insulated and if there is ing a new ceiling. Batts or rigid (2 x 4) lumber and plywood gussets
access to the upper portion, then insulation can be installed in the (see diagrams above).
more insulation may be added as in a space followed by a continuous air
Although it is not necessary to remove
normal attic. and vapour barrier and a new ceiling.
the interior finish and expose the rafters
In all cases, moisture can cause diffi-
• Finally, block off and seal any vents when cross-strapping – as it is when
culties. Review the section on mois-
into those parts of your attic that are extending the rafters – it is a good idea,
ture control in Chapter 1 before
now heated. since you can check the state of the
considering this option.
insulation and see if there is a vapour
• If you choose to build a new ceiling barrier.
Dropped Ceiling
from below, remember that you must
Where headroom is sufficient, con- • You can add rigid insulation directly
prevent warm air from getting into
structing a dropped ceiling to hold insu- to the surface of an existing ceiling.
the new cavity space and bypassing
lation is an excellent way of thermally The advantage of this technique is
the insulation. This will involve seal-
upgrading a cathedral ceiling or flat that you will avoid the mess and time
ing the perimeter of the new ceiling
roof, especially when planned as part required to tear down the ceiling.
and any possible air leakage paths
of a renovation. The following are sev- However, it will make access to the
through partition walls.
eral options. space between the ceiling and the
attic floor more difficult (e.g., to
install recessed light fixtures).
71
Rigid board insulation must be mechan-

ically fastened directly to the roof struc-
ture. Adequate nailing surfaces must
also be provided for the new ceiling
finish. If the rigid board insulation is
Blocking insulation
doubling as the air barrier, make sure
the boards are tightly fitted and that
seams are well sealed. Electrical fixtures
will have to be extended to accommo-
date the depth of the new ceiling.
Adding a New Roof A new insulated roof can be built up over the old roof.
Insulation can also be added on top of
an existing roof. This option is suitable
for cathedral ceilings but can be justified • A relatively straightforward method This step is not necessary if there is
only when major exterior alterations, involves installing rigid board insula- already an air barrier.
such as a new roof, are required. For the tion over the existing roof (see
It is important to insulate (“block”) and
average house, the cost of re-shingling, diagram above). The higher RSI
air seal the spaces between the joists
installing new sheathing and replacing value of rigid insulation means a
along the perimeter of the roof. This is
eavestroughing, soffits and fascia, as well smaller increase in the roof thickness,
to prevent heated air from escaping
as disposal and haulage costs and the although several layers of insulation
around the insulation. Line up the edges
cost of installed insulation, will cost may be needed to meet the desired
of the blocking with the inside finish of
several thousand dollars. You will almost RSI level.
the exterior wall and thoroughly caulk
certainly need the services of a qualified Sheet polyethylene is first placed over all seams.
contractor. the existing roof to provide the air and
• A new roof can be framed over the
vapour barrier (providing the one-third–
existing roof and filled with batt
two-thirds rule is followed, but see com-
insulation. The addition of a new
ments in the last paragraph of item 3,
roof frame may add to the structural
on page 20). Alternatively, low-perme-
loading of the entire assembly. Check
ability rigid board can be installed with
with a building inspector before
the joints taped to prevent air leakage.
beginning the work.
72
Although sealing the air barrier on the

ceiling to the one on the wall should
pose no difficulties, maintaining conti-
nuity at interior partitions will require
some ingenuity and detailed work.
Where partition walls run perpendicular
to the ceiling joists, maintain continuity
by working from above, using connect-
ing strips of polyethylene or extruded
polystyrene. Where partition walls run
parallel to the ceiling joists, install
blocking and nailing strips to provide
Sealing over partition walls support for the new ceiling materials.
It is also possible to leave the ceiling in
Again, if required, a new air and vapour Once the purlins are in place, the new place and apply a new layer of drywall,
barrier can be provided by laying a sheet rafters are installed, followed by the making sure that all penetrations are
of polyethylene directly overtop the insulation. Place the insulation so that it sealed. This method requires less labour
existing roof sheathing. prevents air movement and thermal and creates less of a mess. Create the
bridging. vapour barrier by painting the ceiling
The load of the new roof must be trans-
with two coats of an oil-based paint or a
ferred to the existing structure evenly Leave clear space between the top of
single coat of latex vapour-barrier paint.
and consistently. This is best done by the insulation and the top of the new
installing cross-members (purlins) roof rafter to allow for ventilation. New insulation is added in the attic
spanning the length of the roof. Three Check your building code for details. according to the principles set out on
purlins – located at the base, the mid- pages 59 to 63.
point and the roof peak – will generally
Refinishing the Interior
suffice. The size of purlins will vary
depending on the level of insulation If the attic retrofit is part of interior
being installed. renovations, consider removing the
ceiling and installing a new sheet-poly-
ethylene or sealed drywall air barrier
on the underside of the ceiling joists.
73
5 Basement Insulation
Keeping the Heat In
INTRODUCTION
How Important Is Basement
Heat Loss?
Most homeowners don’t think of their
basement as a prime source of heat loss,
yet basements can account for 20 to
35 percent of a home’s total heat loss.
Basements lose so much heat because
of the large, uninsulated surface area
both above and below grade level.
Contrary to popular opinion, earth is a
poor insulator. There is also a lot of air
leakage through basement windows and
penetrations, through cracks, and at the
top of the foundation wall (sill area).
Few basements have any insulation at
all, and for most homeowners this
means there is much potential for
improvement. Insulation can often
be tied in with other repair or renova-
tion work, such as damp-proofing or
finishing the basement.
74
Keeping the Heat In 5 Basement Insulation
How to Insulate How to Insulate Inside Crawl Spaces Open Foundations Concrete Slab
Outside the Basement the Basement Part III Part IV on the Ground
Part I Part II Part V
Types of Basement Construction Older Foundations Basement Assessment

(Rubble, Brick, Stone)
The most common type of basement is Before planning the job, assess your
the full foundation basement. It may Older foundations made of rubble, basement. The following are some of the
or may not be finished or be considered brick or stone are often uneven and can problems to look for.
a living space. Full foundations can be vary in depth and thickness. These
foundations were rarely damp-proofed Water Leakage
made of many different materials, as
described below. and have a high mortar content, which Major water leaks (persistent leaks and
can absorb water from the soil. They flooding in the spring and when it rains)
Many houses have been built with a usually have a history of moisture must be corrected. This could be as sim-
partial depth foundation that creates a problems and should be insulated from ple as sloping the grade and directing
crawl space under the house. Some older the outside. downspouts away from the foundation.
homes and cottages are built up on Often the solution requires excavating,
posts and piers. The space below the Other Types of Foundations
damp-proofing, adding a drainage
house is open to the outside, although Many newer homes are built with system and insulating from the exterior.
this can be blocked off. Other houses preserved wood foundations. These
are built on a slab-on-grade where there foundations are made with specially Minor water leaks can sometimes be
is no basement or crawl space at all. treated wood studs and sheathing and corrected by directing water away from
are generally fully insulated. the foundation and patching the foun-
Whatever the type of construction, most dation on the interior.
basements/foundations have no insula- Many homes are built without a con-
tion at all. Even if your house has been ventional basement. Examples of these Correct problems with sump pumps or
built since the mid-1980s, it may at best include houses with crawl spaces and sewer backup before insulating.
have partial-depth insulation. slab-on-grade. These types are covered Dampness
at the end of this chapter.
Concrete Foundations Symptoms of dampness include staining
Poured or concrete-block foundations or mould growth, blistering and peeling
have been built since the 1920s, usually paint, efflorescence (a whitish deposit
with parging, damp-proofing and drain on the surface), spalling (deterioration
tiles on the exterior. However, anything of the surface) as well as a musty smell.
more than 20 years old is likely to be in Minor dampness may be corrected from
need of repair. This type of basement the interior; more serious problems
can be insulated from the outside or should be corrected from the outside.
inside as long as there are no serious
water or structural problems.
75
Rubble Brick Poured concrete Concrete block
Condensation can also form on the Insulate Inside or Outside? Normally, a moisture barrier is applied
foundation walls in the summer because In most cases, insulating on the outside to the inside face of basement walls up
the air is very humid and the basement is best from a technical point of view. to grade level, and an air and vapour
is cool. Despite this, it is often necessary to barrier is installed on the warm side of
insulate from the inside for economical the insulation.
Cracks
and practical reasons. Sometimes a Advantages of Inside Insulation
If the basement has an “active” crack
combination of approaches is required. • It can be incorporated into a plan to
(i.e., one that gets bigger or smaller),
Examine the advantages of each finish your basement.
you should seek professional help to
approach carefully.
determine if the situation requires • The work can be done at any time
structural repairs. Insulating Inside of the year and can be done one
This may involve installing a wood- section at a time.
frame wall and adding batt insulation
• It is often easier and cheaper to insu-
(see illustration on page 77). Another
late the full wall and achieve high
option is to use rigid board insulation
insulating values.
with prefabricated metal channels or
wood framing to hold the insulation, • Your landscaping and driveway will
followed by a layer of fire-resistant not be disturbed.
material (e.g., gypsum board) that is
mechanically fastened to the wall.
76
Foundations and Frost Action

Some authorities have expressed concern
about the possibility of frost action and struc-
tural damage when foundations are insulated
from the inside. The concern is that frost will
penetrate deeper down the outside of the
foundation wall. Extensive surveys and
research have not found this to be a problem.
Under some circumstances, however, such as
particularly frost-susceptible soils in extreme
climates, there could be a problem caused by Advantages of Outside Insulation
some construction techniques. Check with • The outside wall tends to be more
your local building authorities or see if your continuous and easier to insulate
neighbours have experienced any difficulties once the soil is removed.
with frost action on their foundation. • You can effectively correct any mois-
ture problems. Rubble or brick foun-
dations and foundations with water
• Obstructions, such as electrical pan- leakage, dampness or other moisture
els, wiring, plumbing, stairs, parti- problems must be insulated from the
tion walls and the oil tank, make the outside. Repairing the foundation,
Interior insulation involves: work more difficult and the insula-
1) a moisture barrier damp-proofing and installing a
2) a new frame wall
tion and air barrier less effective. If drainage system can be done at the
3) insulation part of the basement wall is already same time.
4) an air and vapour barrier finished, this too may prove trouble-
5) finishing some (although wall panelling may • There is no disruption in the house
be easy to remove and re-install). and no inside space is lost.
Disadvantages of Inside Insulation Insulating Outside • The mass of the foundation is within
• Insulating from the inside should not This involves excavating around the the insulated portion of the house
be attempted in basements with a foundation, damp-proofing and and will tend to even out tempera-
moisture problem. If your basement installing rigid insulation, as illustrated ture fluctuations.
has a history of damp or dripping on page 78. Flashing must be attached Disadvantages of Outside Insulation
walls, you should insulate on the to keep water from getting behind the • Difficulty might be encountered
outside. If you must insulate on insulation, and a protective covering when digging a trench around the
the inside, corrective measures are must be installed on the exposed house. Excavating by hand can be a
necessary to eliminate the moisture sections of insulation. tedious, back-straining job. It is
problem before adding insulation. much easier if you have machinery to
do the work.
77
• Storing the dirt can be a problem.

• Excavation cannot be done in winter
and can be a problem in the spring or
throughout the year if the property
has a high water table.
• Features such as non-removable
steps, paved carports, shrubbery, trees
or fences can make the work difficult.
The following sections provide a step-
by-step explanation of how to insulate
outside and inside the basement.
Exterior insulation involves:

1) excavating
2) waterproofing
3) insulation
4) drainage system and backfill
5) protective coating and flashing
78
PART I Tools Required

HOW TO INSULATE • Tools for excavating (from a pick and
shovel to a backhoe) and installing
OUTSIDE THE insulation.
BASEMENT • Tools for applying the flashing
Assessing the (depends upon your choice of Exposing the foundation wall
Situation flashing). and drainage system
Whichever basement • Tools for adding batt insulation
type your house has, to the joist space from the interior How to Insulate Outside the
there are a number of (if necessary). Basement – Step by Step
things to determine before beginning
work: The work may require several weeks
Special Safety Considerations of effort. Plan for extra time if several
• outside features that may inhibit (Refer to pages 40 to 42 for general steps are needed, such as excavating,
excavation and insulating (porches, advice on safe working procedures.) repairing cracks, damp-proofing,
driveways, services, landscaping, installing a drainage system, etc.
The job could involve extensive digging.
access, lot lines);
Take it easy. 1. Digging the Trench
• indications of structural problems
If any underground services enter your The excavation should go down to the
(cracks, spalling, powdering mortar);
home (gas, hydro, telephone, water, footings. Never dig below the bottom
• signs of moisture problems sewage), find out where they are before of the footings. The width of the trench
(efflorescence); digging. This is a free service offered should give you room to work in. It is a
by utilities. big job. Do not make it bigger by over-
• insulation requirements (type and
sizing your hole. You can dig by hand,
thickness, height and depth); Some rubble foundations may be
or you may want to have it done by a
partially supported by the soil. If you
• the site where the soil can be stored; contractor with the appropriate machin-
suspect this may be the case, get some
and ery. The excavated dirt can be stored on
expert advice before you dig.
a tarp or sheet of polyethylene at least
• finishing details (protective coating,
60 cm (24 in.) away from the excava-
flashing).
tion. Protect the trench from rain, run-
ning water and the elements, and ensure
that people and animals cannot fall in.
79
Some soils are not stable and may

require bracing to prevent them from
collapsing. Consult an expert if you are
in doubt.
2. Preparing the Surface and Site
The insulation should overlap
First clean the surface of the foundation at corners.
with a wire brush and scraper. Inspect
the foundation for major holes, cracks or
damage. Repair where necessary. Measure and cut the insulation to the
Smooth uneven surfaces with parging. desired height (generally from the top of
Allow repairs to dry. the footings to the flashing). Start at one
corner (overlapping at the corners) and
Check the condition of the drainage Draining-type insulations must be keep the insulation sheets as tight to the
tiles, repairing where necessary. Older installed vertically all the way wall as possible. Some experts suggest
homes are unlikely to have these down to the footings. A drain tile using two layers of insulation with over-
installed. It is a good idea to install a is essential.
lapping joints. The insulation is held in
system, but only if it can be done prop- place at the top by the flashing and by
erly, draining to an appropriate dis- corrosion-resistant fasteners and washers
3. Applying the Insulation
charge. It is best to do this after other used to secure the protective finish. The
work is completed. Consult someone Three major types of insulation are used
below-grade portion of the insulation is
experienced with drainage systems on the exterior of basement walls: rigid
held in place by backfill.
before proceeding. glass-fibre boards, polystyrene or
polyurethane/polyisocyanurate boards. It may be convenient (although more
Apply waterproofing down from grade See pages 29 and 30 for a description of expensive) to purchase a special inter-
level to over the top of the footings. these insulations. Rigid glass-fibre and locking system of grooved polystyrene
This can be done with two coats of Type IV polystyrene boards are the boards with steel channels. These
waterproofing compound. materials most commonly used in exte- should be used in the above-grade
Check all penetrations through the rior below-grade applications. Insulation portion only to a depth of 30 cm
foundation wall. These will have to be with drainage capability, such as glass- (12 in.). There are also special clips and
sealed, removed or extended out to fibre boards, must be used only if they fasteners for applying the rigid board to
accommodate the thickness of the are applied to the full depth of the the wall; check building-supply stores.
insulation. foundation wall, if there is a drain-tile
system, and if the insulation is applied
with no horizontal seams.
80
“J” channel “Z” flashing Wood flashing
Types of flashing
4. Flashing protective coat. Wood flashing should • Expanded metal lath with cement
Flashing helps keep the insulation in be sloped with an overhang of at least parging. Follow the manufacturer’s
place, prevents water from getting 20 mm (3⁄4 in.) and have a drip edge on instructions.
behind the insulation and provides a the underside.
• Polymer-modified pargings. These go
clean, neat junction. There are two Ideally, the insulation is carried up past directly on some types of insulation
major considerations: the location of the the header area by at least 15 cm (6 in.). without requiring metal lath. Check
flashing, which defines how far up the This often cannot be done because of the manufacturer’s literature.
wall the insulation extends, and the type practical or aesthetic reasons. If the insu-
of flashing used. • Pressure-treated plywood. This can
lation is carried up only to the header
be installed using stainless-steel
If the siding can be partially removed or area or lower, then the header area
fasteners.
pried up, then standard “Z” flashing should be air sealed and insulated from
should be used. This is inserted at least the interior. This is discussed later in • Fibreglass panels or vinyl or alu-
5 cm (2 in.) behind the siding and this section. minum siding that can match the
building paper. house siding.
5. Exterior Protection
If flashing cannot be inserted behind A covering is needed to protect the insu- 6. Backfilling
the siding (such as with brick), then lation from sunlight and damage by The drain tiles (perforated plastic pipe)
either a metal “J” channel must be people and animals. It is applied from should first be covered with 15 cm
made up and installed prior to the insu- the top of the insulation to a point (6 in.) of clean gravel – 4 mm (1⁄8 in.) or
lation or a wood flashing installed after about 30 cm (12 in.) below ground larger – and preferably a strip of filter
the insulation. Flashing should accom- level. Some possibilities include the fabric. If a draining insulation is used,
modate the width of the insulation and following: the gravel should extend at least 10 cm
(4 in.) up the side insulation.
81
Exterior protection should extend below grade.
Backfill in stages, removing large objects The filled hole may be covered with any
and compacting or tamping the ground. type of surface – patio stones, grass or a
If the soil is a poorly draining type such garden. Some additional settling may
as expansive clay, it would be better to take place; it is better to wait before
The sill should slope away from
bring in free-draining soil. undertaking any expensive treatments the window.
such as paving.
When the hole is finally filled, make
sure the ground slopes away from the 7. Finishing Details
Doors should be outlined with a “J”
house; usually a slope of 10 percent – In the case of wood flashing or the “J” channel or equivalent flashing. The door
20 cm (8 in.) for the first 2 m (6 ft.) – is channel, seal the joint between the sill may have to be extended to protect
provided to allow for settling. This will flashing and the house with a suitable the flashing beneath the door.
encourage drainage away from the insu- caulking. In the case of brick siding, the
lation, as will the addition of eaves- weep holes (holes that allow water to Seal penetrations through the insulation
troughing and downspouts. It is very escape) must remain clear. and covering to prevent wind and water
important not to direct excess surface entry. Some penetrations (gas regulators,
water toward the foundation. Windows in the foundation can usually electrical conduits) may be better left
be finished by wrapping the insulation uninsulated.
around the foundation to meet the win-
dow frame. Lath and parging can be
applied over the insulation to the win-
dow frame. The joint between the frame
and parging should be caulked and will
have to be inspected periodically.
82
Insulating a cold room on the interior Overlap interior and exterior insulation
8. Insulating the Header Area Complications A Concrete Porch Is Butted

If the exterior insulation does not Against a Basement Wall, a
Part of the Basement Wall Encloses a
extend above the header area by at least Paved Driveway or Some
Cold Cellar or an Unheated Garage
15 cm (6 in.), the header area should be Other Obstruction
Apply the insulation inside the base-
air sealed and insulated from inside the Once again, the insulation should
ment, against the cold cellar or garage
basement. Caulk the area where the switch to the inside around these
walls. The wall should be treated as if it
wood-frame wall meets the concrete obstacles. There should be at least
were an exterior basement wall. The
foundation wall at the sill plate with a 0.6 m (2 ft.) of overlap to provide con-
doorway from the basement should be
good caulking compound such as butyl tinuous coverage and reduce the heat
weatherstripped and insulated. Finally,
rubber or polysulphide to provide the loss through the thermal bridge (see
insulate the ceiling of the cold cellar
air barrier. The header can be insulated illustration above right).
or garage.
with batt and rigid board insulation as
described on page 87. The outside insulation around the rest
of the basement should be extended
at least 0.6 m (2 ft.) beyond the inside
wall junction (as illustrated above left)
to minimize heat loss at these points.
83
Before adopting a system for applying

PART II insulation and a protective finish to your
HOW TO INSULATE basement walls, you may want to con-
INSIDE THE sult a local builder and check with local
BASEMENT building authorities to be sure that your
project will meet the requirements of
Assessing the building codes. Also, some regions have
Situation particular problems, such as frost heave
Whichever basement due to expansive clay soils, and these
type your house has, special problems should be considered
there are a number of before beginning work. Interior insulation can use
things to examine before beginning framing and batts or rigid board
The most common choices are between
work since the type and condition of the insulation with an attachment
three types of insulation – batt/blanket system.
wall will influence how you insulate. Be
insulation, rigid plastic board insulation
sure to consider the following:
and polyurethane spray. The third type,
• interior features that may make insu- which should be applied only by a pro- Check with your building-supply dealer.
lating more difficult (uneven walls, fessional, is highly recommended for Remember, when choosing an insula-
stairs, services, cupboards, partition uneven or rubble wall basements that tion system it is important to calculate
walls, etc.); have moisture problems. Refer to pages the cost of the whole system under con-
26, 29 and 30 for detailed information sideration – including the price of sup-
• indications of structural problems
on these types of materials. port materials (studs and fasteners), the
(cracks, bulges);
air and vapour barrier, a fire-protective
Rigid plastic board insulations generally
• indications of moisture problems covering and installation costs.
have a higher RSI value per millimetre
(leaks, dampness, efflorescence, blis-
than batts and therefore require less Special Safety Considerations
tering paint);
basement space and a thinner support- Refer to pages 40 to 42 for general
• insulation requirements (type, level, ing framework. They are also less prone advice on safe working procedures.
location); and to moisture damage than the batts. When working inside basements,
However, they are more expensive and remember to follow these guidelines:
• finishing details.
must have a fire-resistant covering.
84
wall is even and vertical, as the board gypsum board is mechanically fastened
material is fairly rigid. It is usually to the wall or nailing strips.
restricted to concrete-block or poured
The best system for you will depend, in
concrete walls. Rigid insulation panels
part, on the type of finish you will
are secured to the concrete using
install and the loading requirements on
mechanically attached nailing strips,
the finished wall. For example, vertical
and the assembly is protected with
panelling will have different require-
12.7 mm (1⁄2 in.) gypsum drywall
ments from horizontally installed dry-
secured to the nailing strips.
wall. Ask at your building-supply outlet
for the different options available.
Rigid board insulation involves:
Preparation
1) air sealing the old walls After you have checked the wall and You should install at least RSI 2.1
2) installing the insulation made any necessary repairs, air seal all (R-12). Consider installing it in
3) finishing leakage paths, such as at the sill plate overlapping layers to minimize heat
and around penetrations. This step is loss through the wooden nailing strips.
important as it provides the primary Be sure to install the insulation snugly
• Provide adequate temporary lighting.
air-barrier system. to eliminate air circulation at the edges.
• Keep yourself and the insulation
Installation Finishing
materials away from the flue pipe
of the furnace and any other sources Mechanical fasteners are essential to The joist area must also be insulated
of heat. secure the gypsum board to the wall. and sealed (unless the joists are embed-
This often means that wooden nailing ded in concrete). See the next section
• Watch out for older wiring, such strips are used, with the insulation for details.
as the knob-and-tube type, that placed between or behind the strips.
may be in poor condition. This is a The entire wall must be protected
Alternatively, the insulation can be held with 12.7 mm (1⁄2 in.) gypsum board or
common hazard when working in in place with a special wood or metal
older basements. equivalent fire protection. This includes
nailing strip that fits within grooves or the joist space if a new ceiling is not
notches cut in the insulation panels. In installed.
How to Insulate Inside the either case, the drywall is screwed or
Basement Using Rigid Board nailed in place into the nailing strip.
Insulation Corrosion-resistant concrete fasteners
secure the nailing strip into the concrete
This method works best if the basement
wall. The insulation can be glued on the
wall as a temporary measure until the
85
Top plate detail where the joists run perpendicular to

Top plate detail where the joists run parallel to the wall the wall
preferable to excavate, damp-proof, and through the studs and better moisture
insulate from the outside. protection.
How to Frame and Insulate Inside Cover the basement walls with a poly- Because the wall frame is built out from
the Basement – Step by Step ethylene moisture barrier that extends the wall, the studs will not touch the
This system consists of a new wood- from grade level only to the bottom of cold exterior walls and there will be
frame wall with batt or blanket insula- the wall allowing extra at the bottom – space for an extra layer of horizontal
tion, an air and vapour barrier, and about 30 cm (1 ft.) – to lie under the insulation.
finishing. It can provide high levels of new frame wall. This will protect the
The bottom plate should sit directly
insulation at a relatively low cost. insulation, studding and wall finish
on the extension of the polyethylene
from possible water damage.
Preparation moisture barrier. If you never have mois-
Framing a New Wall ture leakage on the wall to be insulated,
Before you begin, be sure to caulk any
The next step is to install a wood-frame then you can also set the bottom plate
cracks between the foundation and
wall in the basement. There are two on a bead of caulking compound or
the sill, as well as any other air-leakage
approaches. You can install the new wall gasketing material to create a tight seal.
paths. See Chapters 2 and 3 for a
description of the best materials and flush to the old wall using 38 mm x Next, fasten the top plate to the bottom
techniques. 89 mm (2 x 4) lumber. Alternatively, of the joists. Where the wall runs paral-
you can use 38 mm x 64 mm or lel to the joists you will have to build in
Inspect the walls for possible moisture 38 mm x 89 mm (2 x 3 or 2 x 4) a nailing support for the top plate (the
problems. Occasional dampness on the lumber built out from the wall by approach you use will depend upon your
basement walls (especially in late spring 64 mm (2 1⁄2 in.). The second method particular house). Now is the time to
or early summer) is all right as long as takes up more room, but does provide line up the new wall properly using a
the correct procedures are followed more insulation, less thermal bridging plumb bob or level and straight edge.
when installing insulation.
Then install the studs 600 mm (24 in.)
When water leaks are major or frequent,
on centre (i.e., from the centre of one
the source of the problem must be cor-
stud to the centre of the next) for
rected and the wall repaired. It may be
38 mm x 89 mm (2 x 4), or 400 mm
(16 in.) on centre for 38 mm x 64 mm
86
Two layers of insulation can be used: Rigid extruded polystyrene insulation caulked between
1) horizontal between the foundation wall and the studs the joists continues the air and vapour barrier up to the
2) vertical between the studs sub-floor.
(2 x 3) lumber. The choice of spacing Insulating be sealed with a continuous bead of

will depend upon how much structural Insulation is installed in two layers. sealant that is run between the layers
support your finishing material needs. The first is a horizontal layer between of polyethylene at the lapped joints.
Make sure that the studs are perfectly the studs and the wall. It is important Staple the polyethylene to the stud
vertical and accurately spaced so that that the insulation is tight against the through the bead of sealant.
the insulation will fit in snugly and the foundation wall. Next, install a vertical Except for foundations where the
finish can be installed without prob- layer and make sure it fits snugly joists are embedded in concrete, the
lems. Measure each stud separately. between the studs. There should be no joist space should be insulated and
Extra framing is needed around win- gaps or air spaces where convection cur- sealed. This can be done by filling the
dows and doors in the foundation. rents could help heat to bypass the insu- space with a section of glass-fibre
If all alignments are perfectly level and lation. Insulation should be wide insulation and then installing a piece of
square, you may be able to build the enough to match the stud spacing and low-permeability rigid board insulation,
wall on the floor, tilt it into place, shim be cut to fill the full height of the wall. cut to size, in each joist area above the
the bottom plate and then secure it. Finishing top plate of the new frame wall. Seal
the edges of the rigid insulation with
Use dry lumber for the framing. If not, Install a polyethylene air and vapour
non-hardening sealant to get a tight seal.
allow the framing to dry for at least two barrier over the studs and insulation.
The polyethylene air and vapour barrier
weeks before adding insulation and cov- Leave enough extra polyethylene at the
from the wall is sealed to the bottom of
ering the wall with the air and vapour top to connect to the air barrier in the
the rigid insulation.
barrier. Some temporary bracing may be joist space as discussed below. Seal all
tacked on to keep the wet studs from edges, seams and penetrations in the The same basic technique can be used
twisting as they dry. barrier with acoustical sealant. All where the joists run parallel to the wall.
joints should overlap over a stud and The last joist that runs above the sill is
usually inset from the foundation wall.
Depending on the layout of the house,
87
this space can be fitted with long strips Insulation around a cold cellar
of rigid insulation. The polyethylene
air and vapour barrier installed on the
Basement Wall Is Irregular
wall is then lapped up and sealed to the
rigid insulation. • An irregular basement is usually
made of stone or rubble and is rarely
Finally, nail up the finishing surface. Sealed plumbing penetrations damp-proofed on the outside. An
Make sure it is tight against the insula- interior retrofit is not recommended,
tion. The polyethylene barrier and rigid but where no water or moisture
insulation will represent a fire hazard and vapour barrier and the gaps problems exist, it may be possible to
until covered. This also applies to the around the pipes caulked. insulate on the inside. Batt insulation
joist spaces. will conform to the irregularities.
• Do not insulate around any flue
If the joists are embedded in concrete, it When insulating on the inside of
pipes. Different clearances are
is better not to insulate the joist area. stone and brick foundations, do not
required depending on the type of
This will help to keep the joist ends insulate the joist space. This will
flue. Check with the manufacturer or
warm and dry. However, you should still allow moisture in the foundation wall
a heating-system specialist. Similarly,
air seal around each joist. an escape route. The joist area should
furnaces, wood stoves and fireplaces
still be air sealed. Spray polyurethane
require clearances from the wall. Do
foam has been used successfully to
Complications not insulate if you cannot maintain
reduce moisture (see pages 30 to 31).
the proper clearance.
Wall Space Interrupted by Pipes, This product must be installed by a
Ducts or an Electrical Panel • Be careful working around the main certified installer and be covered by
• Move water supply pipes away from electrical panel. Even when the power an appropriate fire-resistant material.
the wall if at all possible. If they can- to the rest of the house is off, the
Part of the Basement Is a Cold Cellar
not be moved, install the insulation panel will still be “live.” It’s better to
or an Unheated Garage
and the air and vapour barrier have an electrician move the panel
out to accommodate the new wall. • Apply the insulation to the cold cellar
behind the pipes so that they are on
or garage wall separating the heated
the warm side. Never place insulation Basement Wall Interrupted by basement from the unheated space, as
in front of the pipes. Any pipes that a Window if it were an external basement wall.
pass through the air and vapour bar-
• Seal the point where the window
rier should pass through a plywood
frame adjoins the wall with caulking
board that is sealed to the main air
compound, and then insulate.
88
Overhangs should be air sealed before insulating.
Insulating a pony wall is a two-step process that creates

a small ledge.
The doorway from the basement problems). The insulation on the con-
should be weatherstripped and insu- crete is extended up about 20 cm (8 in.)
lated. Finally, insulate the ceiling as to overlap with the frame section. A
described for unheated crawl spaces ledge is created at this point (see illus-
(see pages 90 and 91). tration above left).
If you insulate your cold cellar, there Overhangs
will be an added benefit – it will be An overhang over the foundation should
colder! Keep a check on the winter tem- be air sealed and insulated. It is usually
perature so that adjustments can be possible to remove the finish under-
made to prevent freezing. neath the overhang and air seal the
space between the joists above the foun-
The Basement Has a Pony Wall
dation with polyurethane foam or
A pony wall consists of short sections caulked, low-permeability rigid insula-
of wood frame wall sitting on top of a tion. Insulate the joist space with batt or
conventional concrete foundation. In blanket insulation before re-installing
this case, the wood-frame section is the finish. Heavyweight building paper,
insulated between the studs, and the housewrap wind or another barrier can
concrete section is insulated on the be installed before the finish.
interior (assuming there are no moisture
89
Moisture Barriers
If there is no moisture barrier on the crawl
space floor, add one. The barrier should
be 0.10 mm or 0.15 mm (4 mil or 6 mil) poly-
ethylene overlapped at the seams and held
down with a few old boards or some other
scrap material. If there is likely to be
any traffic in the crawl space, you will need to
protect the polyethylene with a 50-mm (2-in.)
layer of sand.
PART III
CRAWL SPACES
Theoretically, a crawl
• It is usually easier to do a thorough
space can be insulated Insulating outside the crawl
insulating job on the walls, especially
in either of two ways: space is similar to insulating
when the crawl space is shallow
a full basement.
• the walls of the crawl or the joist spaces are uneven or
space can be insulated oddly shaped.
on either the inside or the outside, • If your crawl space does not open
• Less material is usually required if the
creating a heated area; or into a full basement, it should have
crawl space is of a typical height –
• the house floor above it can be insu- less than 1.5 m (5 ft.). ventilation at a ratio of 1 to 500 (vent
lated to keep heat from getting into area to floor area). The best time to
the crawl space in the first place. ventilate is in the spring because
How to Insulate and Heat a summer ventilation can increase con-
Insulating the walls is recommended for Crawl Space densation. Make sure these vents are
the following reasons: From the Outside closed and well sealed and insulated
• Heating ducts and water pipes in • Insulate the outside wall exactly as each winter!
the crawl space will not have to be described for the outside basement • If the foundation footings are above
insulated and will not freeze. Any wall (see pages 79 to 82). the frost line, insulate on the outside
heat loss from the ducts will not be of the crawl space walls. By insulating
• If outside obstructions (a porch, a
a total waste. on the outside, the walls will be kept
paved driveway, etc.) make it impos-
• The walls can be insulated on the sible to completely encircle the crawl warmer, avoiding any possibility of
outside to reduce the internal mois- space from outside the house, then frost heave. Shallow footings can be
ture problems that can develop in the inside of the wall may be insu- kept warmer by placing a layer of
damp crawl spaces and keep the soil lated at those points. horizontal insulation sloping away
below the footings warm. from the foundation.
Make sure that the inside and the out-
side portions overlap by at least 60 cm
(2 ft.) and insulate the inside portion.
The instructions that follow show
you how.
90
From the Inside impermeable material (e.g., linoleum

• If using polystyrene or semi-rigid or plywood), you already have a
glass-fibre insulation, insulate in the vapour barrier where you want it.
same manner as outlined for the The solid materials of the floor can Insulation on the walls and in
inside of a basement (see pages serve as the air barrier, but be sure to the floor creates a partially heated
locate and seal any air leaks. The air- crawl space.
84 to 89).
tightness at the perimeter joist spaces
• Apply a polyethylene moisture is critical. This area can be sealed
barrier to the crawl-space floor • There must be a moisture barrier on
with polyurethane foam.
and install adequate ventilation as the crawl-space floor.
described above. • Batt insulation may be held in place
• If your basement has both a full
with heavy-duty permeable building
Keep water away from the foundation basement and a section of crawl
paper stapled to the joists, or by
walls (slope the ground away from the space where the floor has been insu-
chicken wire, sheets of polystyrene
house and install eavestroughing where lated, remember to insulate the wall
bead board or a commercially avail-
necessary). separating the basement from the
able insulation-support system.
crawl space.
• Place the insulation firmly against
Partially Heated • If the ground level inside the crawl
the floor above. It should be installed
Crawl Space space is lower than the ground level
so that it fills the space between the
outside, there is a slight danger that
It is possible to insulate between the sub-floor and the support system
frost heave can damage the walls by
joists and create an unheated crawl (usually the depth of the joists).
pushing them inward. Make every
space. However, this can lead to prob-
• Tape the seams in any heating ducts effort to keep water away from the
lems of freezing pipes, frozen ground
and insulate all ducts and water pipes foundation walls – slope the ground
and possible rot at the joist ends. For
in the crawl space. Remember, even away from the house and install eave-
these reasons, floor insulation is recom-
insulated water pipes may freeze if stroughing where necessary.
mended only when combined with
the temperature of the crawl space is
foundation-wall insulation to create a • There is an added safety precaution:
allowed to fall below freezing.
partially heated crawl space. if freezing becomes a problem, you
• Make sure that the crawl space is may want to install a thermostat
A few points of general importance
adequately ventilated in the spring. attached to a small heater in the
should be summarized:
Vents should be installed at a ratio of crawl space. This unit can turn on
• The air and vapour barrier must be 1 to 500 (vent area to floor area). Do and heat the walls when the crawl-
applied on the warm (top) side of the not ventilate in winter: the vents space temperature approaches
insulation. If the floor above the should be plugged and insulated. freezing.
crawl space is already covered with an
91
If the joist space is already covered, the

PART IV insulation may have to be blown in.
OPEN Read the section on pages 60 to 62
FOUNDATIONS that deals with insulating an attic floor.
Insulating an open foundation is virtu-
Some older homes and
ally identical, with the following
cottages have open
exceptions:
foundations. They
should be insulated • The vapour barrier is placed above
between the joists in the the insulation instead of below.
same way as crawl spaces. There should
• It is crucial that the insulation is
be a good air seal and the insulation
blown in at a high density so that
should be protected from the wind and
there is no air space between the
animals. It may be possible to build an
insulation and the floor above.
insulating skirt around the foundation,
creating a heated crawl space.
92
Interior Insulation
PART V
Quotes for interior insulation should
CONCRETE SLAB Near-horizontal insulation buried include details on wall preparation, the
ON THE GROUND in the soil provides frost protec- installation of a moisture barrier, the
tion to the slab-on-grade.
Insulation is applied to type and spacing of the framing, the
the foundation of type and quantity of insulation, details
houses without base- on a sealed air and vapour barrier, insu-
ments exactly as you lating and sealing details at the header,
Exterior Insulation sealing of penetrations and finishing
would insulate the out-
side of a full basement. Refer to pages Contracting for the excavation can save materials.
79 to 83 for complete details. time. If the whole job is being con-
tracted out, ensure that the quote
If the foundation is shallow on frost- includes parging, damp-proofing, drain
susceptible soils, a near-horizontal layer tiles and aggregate where required, the
of insulation should be installed in the type and quantity of insulation used,
soil. The closer the footing is to the sur- the fastening techniques used, sealing of
face, the longer the horizontal insulation penetrations, flashing and finishing
should be. Consult your local buildings details, a sloping grade and clean-up.
department or the insulation manufac-
turer for detailed information.
93
6 Insulating Walls
Keeping the Heat In
INTRODUCTION
Walls can account for 10 to 30 percent
of heat loss in houses. In addition to
heat loss through the walls, there are
many cracks and penetrations that allow
uncontrolled air leakage into and out of
the house.
Types of Wall Construction

Solid Walls
Solid walls include brick, concrete
block, log and wood plank. Solid walls
do not have a cavity that can be insu-
lated. The only way to insulate these
types of walls is to add insulation to the
exterior or to the interior. Many solid
walls do have a small cavity, generally
less than 25 mm (1 in.), that is used to
collect and drain water out of the wall.
Never insulate these cavities or plug
their drain holes.
94
Keeping the Heat In 6 Insulating Walls
Blown-In Insulation Renovating the Interior Renovating the Exterior Miscellaneous Spaces Additions and
Part I Part II Part III Part IV New Construction
Part V
Concrete Block Opportunities for Upgrading It is important to consider both vapour

Concrete-block walls usually have hol- Empty-cavity frame walls are the easiest barriers and air barriers, especially when
low cores that allow air circulation. The to insulate. Insulation can be blown in extending an existing wall from either
cores cannot effectively be insulated, from the top and bottom or from the the interior or exterior. Keep in mind
since the block and mortar will continue interior or exterior. that in most climate zones, the vapour
to act as a thermal bridge. However, air barrier must be on the warm third of
can easily circulate inside the block Frame walls with some insulation or the finished wall. See pages 14 to 20 for
cores, increasing convective heat losses. solid walls are more difficult to insulate, more details. You must also consider the
Seal all possible air-leakage routes into although they should be air sealed as location and condition of old vapour
the blocks. described on pages 48 to 51. They can barriers, which could be as simple as
be insulated as part of a major repair job plaster walls with several coats of paint.
Frame Walls or renovation. Interior work includes
Frame walls have a cavity that may be wall repairs, drywall replacement and
insulated. Different construction tech- decorating and any renovation changes
niques determine the size of the cavity to the wall. On the exterior, insulating
and ease of access from either the inte- can be combined with re-siding.
rior or exterior. The wall construction
Solve any moisture or structural prob-
also affects details that can interfere
lems before insulating. Indications of
with the insulation, including top and
problems include staining, dripping,
bottom plates, fire stops, blocking,
mould growth, cracks on the inside wall
plumbing, wiring, and heating ducts.
finish and in the exterior siding, and
A frame house with a brick veneer usu- windows and doors that don’t operate
ally has a 25- to 50-mm (1- to 2-in.) air properly because they are out of square.
space between the bricks and the frame
wall for drainage. The larger cavity in
the frame wall can be insulated, how-
ever, the drainage cavity behind the
brick veneer should never be insulated.
95
Note: Blown-in cellulose fibre will more read-

ily fill irregular spaces than other insulation
materials. Cellulose is also the only blown-in
insulation that can significantly restrict airflow
when blown to proper densities. Stipulate in
the contract that the density should be no less
than 56 kg/m3 (3 1⁄2 lb./cu. ft.). This density is
approximately one and a half times the density
of insulation normally used for attic applications.
PART I
BLOWN-IN
INSULATION
If you have empty There are three possible ways of doing
wood-frame wall cavi- this:
ties, have a professional
1. From the inside: Small holes of
insulation contractor
15 mm to 50 mm (5⁄8 in. to 2 in.) are Insulation blown in from
blow in loose-fill insula- the exterior
drilled through the inside wall finish
tion. Before you proceed, however,
and the insulation is blown directly
remember that the stud space is likely
into the wall.
only about 90 mm (3 1⁄2 in.) thick. If 2. From the outside: Most types of
there is already 5 cm (2 in.) of insula- The holes must be completely sealed exterior siding can be drilled or lifted to
tion, the benefits of blowing in more after the job is done. The patch job can permit access to the stud wall behind.
will be small and it will be very difficult be messy and unsightly unless immedi- Brick siding can have single bricks tem-
for a contractor to do a good job. You ately covered with new paint or wallpa- porarily removed. This leaves sufficient
may have to do a little exploring at dif- per, which should be impermeable. space to repair holes in the sheathing.
ferent locations to find out what is in Ideally, two stud spaces can be filled
This approach works best when com-
the walls. Try looking behind electrical from one brick space. Insulation should
bined with redecoration or renovation.
outlets (with the power off ). not be allowed to enter the drainage cav-
In fact, if the interior finish is in bad
ity between the brick veneer and the
A small hole must be drilled into each condition and needs to be replaced or
stud walls.
stud space in the walls; in most cases, two recovered, it should be possible to drill
or more must be drilled per storey – not the holes, blow in the insulation, plug Remember that each stud space will
more than 1.5 m (5 ft.) apart vertically, the holes, install a well-sealed polyethy- require two or more holes with this
and above and below windows and doors. lene air and vapour barrier over the old method. The top hole should be no
interior wall, and apply new drywall more than 30 cm (12 in.) from the top
over that. plate, preferably 15 cm (6 in.).
Make sure the installer patches the
holes section by section rather than
leaving them all until the end. If not,
you’ll have several holes in your wall
which will permit water entry if a flash
storm hits.
96
Blown-in insulation from the attic or basement leaves Potential blockages in the wall include wires, pipes,
the walls intact. blocking, windows and doors.
3. From the basement/attic: This can Just as you should choose your contrac- or some other area where it is not
be the easiest approach as long as the tor carefully, consult closely with the needed – a big waste! Make sure the
cavity is open from top to bottom, such contractor when choosing insulation. right amount is used.
as with balloon frame construction. A The characteristics of the different
Remember to tighten up the air-barrier
long tube is inserted into the cavity loose-fill insulations are outlined on
system. Seal all air leaks into the wall
from above or below to within 15 cm pages 26 to 29.
and keep your humidity levels low. A
(6 in.) of the bottom or top of the stud
When you have chosen the material, coat or two of low-permeability paint
space. The hose is then withdrawn,
figure out with the contractor how (oil-based or latex vapour-barrier paint)
30 cm (12 in.) at a time. At each stage,
much should be used. Knowing the size applied to the inside surface of the wall
the space is allowed to completely fill
of the wall to be filled and the density provides a vapour barrier.
with insulation.
of the application, you and the contrac-
All stud spaces in the wall need to be tor should agree on the number of bags
filled but there should be allowance for to be used – and write it into the con-
windows and doors, firebreaks, cross tract. Only a small variation from the
braces and other obstructions in the target is acceptable. If the contractor
wall cavity. The contractor should first uses too little, the insulation settles and
plumb the space and verify the horizon- leaves gaps in the wall. If too much is
tal spacing of studs. used, some of the insulation may be
escaping from the wall into a floor space
97
Caution: Two thirds or more of the total

insulating value of the wall must be on the
cold side of the air and vapour barrier.
Refer to page 20 for more details.
PART II
RENOVATING THE
INTERIOR
If your plans involve
extensive renovation,
you have two options:
n Rebuild the existing
wall. If you have a wood-
frame house and you are removing
the existing wall board or plaster, you
can easily insulate the cavity. You
could save even more energy by
adding insulation to the inside sur-
face. Attach 38 mm x 38 mm or
38 mm x 64 mm (2 x 2 or 2 x 3)
Insulating the interior involves:
strapping across the studs to allow for
1) insulating the old wall
a second layer of insulation in the 2) applying the air and vapour barrier
wall. Alternatively, you can mechani- 3) cross-strapping
cally fasten (not glue) rigid board 4) horizontal insulation between the strapping
insulation directly on the exposed 5) option of extending the insulation past partition walls
studs. High R-value boards are more
expensive but thinner, using up less
barrier is in the form of an oil-based In both cases, follow the relevant part of
interior space.
or latex vapour-barrier paint, you can the instructions for insulating a basement
n Build a new wall on the inside of reduce its effectiveness by scraping from the inside. This includes sealing air
the existing one. With both wood the surface. The new vapour barrier leaks, framing the new wall, framing
frame and masonry walls, you may should be more effective. Typically, a around window and door openings,
build a new wall inside the existing polyethylene sheet is installed as a insulating (ideally in two layers so there
one and then insulate it. If the old combined air and vapour barrier. The are no gaps), installing an air and vapour
wall has an existing vapour barrier, new frame wall can be installed any barrier, and installing new drywall.
such as a polyethylene sheet, it is distance from the old wall, depend-
preferable to remove it. If the vapour ing on the level of insulation desired.
98
• Before you start the work, identify • For non-standard stud spaces, cut the
the areas within the wall that need insulation (if the batt type is used)
work. These areas will include about 25 mm (1 in.) wider than the
plumbing, wiring, and heating and space to be filled.
ventilation ducts. Plan for the insula-
• Consider extending the insulation
tion to extend behind any pipes, elec-
past junctions at partition walls. To
trical boxes, and so on, so that these
do this, remove the drywall on the
obstructions are on the warm side of
Foam insulation, used carefully, partition wall back one stud space
the insulation. This may be difficult
can insulate and seal gaps around and cut back the partition wall
window and door frames.
when building new inside walls.
enough to extend the insulation
Electrical boxes may be moved into
and air and vapour barrier past the
the new wall; moving pipes can be
partition wall.
A few additional points should be more difficult. If there are any pipes
noted: in the existing wall (follow them up • If space is at a premium, insulate the
from the basement and down from rigid board insulation. This will cost
• If there is an existing uninsulated the bathroom and kitchen), they more for the materials, but will
cavity, it may be easier and less could freeze and burst if left outside require less space for the same
expensive to blow in insulation rather the insulation. Move the pipes or insulating value.
than expose the cavity first. insulate behind them rather than
• When installing a polyethylene air in front.
and vapour barrier, unroll the sheet • If you are rebuilding the existing
across the entire wall area, including wall, seal all cracks around door or
window and door openings. Cut window frames with polyurethane
these later with an “X” from corner foam sealant or stuff the gap with
to corner and seal the flaps to the insulation and caulk. If installing a
frame. Make sure the air and vapour new wall, you must frame the win-
barrier is well sealed at all joints, dows and doors.
openings and interruptions.
99
Extending the insulation below grade provides

continuous coverage. Strapping and insulation should fit snugly together.
• Make allowances for extending • Do not forget air-leakage control at

PART III window and door jambs, and for penetrations, seams and edges, espe-
RENOVATING THE other penetrations such as vents, cially at the top/eaves area. This is to
EXTERIOR electrical service, gas and oil pipes, ensure that house air doesn’t circulate
and for eavestroughs and downpipes. through the old wall and out at the
Installing new siding on
eaves. Seal penetrations and leakage
the house provides an • Consider the location of the vapour
points on the interior wall.
opportunity to install a barrier. If the new insulation has at
rigid board insulation least twice the insulating value of the • If your basement is not already
or batt/blanket insula- old wall, then a new air and vapour insulated, consider extending the
tion over the old siding and barrier can be installed over the old insulation below ground level over
under the new siding. Here are a few wall before installing the new wall the foundation wall (see pages 79 to
points to keep in mind: and insulation. This is most often the 82 for details).
case with solid masonry walls and
• It is possible to add significant amounts • The framing generally requires a top
can be done with a continuous and
of insulation to the outside since space plate along the soffit and a bottom
well-sealed polyethylene sheet.
is usually not a limitation (except in the plate attached to the foundation wall.
case of lot-line restrictions). • Make sure there is not an air space In some cases it may be necessary to
behind the existing siding that would extend framing up into the eaves,
• Insulate any uninsulated stud spaces
allow cold-air circulation and short- which is not a problem if you are
in the existing wall before adding to
circuit the new insulation. planning to replace the soffits anyway.
the exterior.
100
• Make sure that the framing and

insulation fit snugly together
without gaps.
• The new cladding should use fasten-
ers long enough to penetrate the nail
Air barrier base by 3 cm (1 1⁄4 in.).
• Insulated siding (often polyurethane
foam sprayed onto the back of alu-
minum or vinyl siding) is an alterna-
tive to separate insulation and siding.
The insulating value is not high–
up to RSI 0.70 (R-4). It should be
installed so that there is no air
circulation between the new siding
and the old wall, which can be very
difficult to accomplish.
• Strapping over the insulation rather
The box beam can overlap at corners. than on the side of the insulation has
several advantages. It provides a rain
screen and reduces heat buildup
• Ensure that the eaves will prevent Rigid Board Insulation behind the siding. It also provides a
water from getting in between the • Any type of rigid or semi-rigid board nailing surface for the siding without
insulation and the siding. If neces- insulation can be used. creating a thermal bridge.
sary, add flashing at the top of the
insulation. Caulk the top joints for • Fasten rigid insulation in place
good measure. with the appropriate nails and Batt/Blanket Insulation
washers; check with the manufac- • Build a wooden framework over the
turer or supplier. entire outside wall to hold the insula-
tion and support the new siding (see
illustration on page 102).
101
Trusses can be hung from the rafters and nailed to the existing wall.
Cross-strapping, in layers perpendic- the other vertically between the

ular to each other, can build out the studs. In this way RSI 3.5 (R-20) or
new wall. Alternatively, a lightweight higher can be installed.
frame wall can be hung from the
• Batt/blanket insulation should fit
rafters or supported on a bottom
snugly into the supporting frame-
plate out from the old wall. This
work without gaps.
would allow two layers of insulation,
one horizontally behind the frame,
102
PART IV
MISCELLANEOUS
SPACES
Warm air rises, but heat
radiates in all direc-
tions, so walls and
floors must be insulated
where they separate a
heated space from an unheated space.
This section deals with three special
cases: an unheated garage, a cold cellar
and overhangs.
Unheated Garage
The walls and the ceiling adjoining the Insulate between an unheated garage and the house.
house must be insulated.
The Walls
A contractor can blow the ceiling full of If there is a ceiling finish that you do
Refer to pages 96 to 99 for instructions insulation. Read the section on page 66 not want to remove, you can nail rigid
on wall insulation if the garage is above on how to insulate a covered attic floor. board insulation to it as long as the
ground; refer to pages 79 to 89 if it is Any holes cut in the ceiling should be surface is fairly even. The rigid board
below ground level. carefully re-sealed to prevent gas fumes may require a fire-protection layer,
The Ceiling from vehicles leaking into the rooms depending on code requirements. Seal
If the ceiling is open and the joists are above. Insulation must be blown in to any potential air-leakage paths that
visible, proceed as outlined for open the proper density to prevent settling. would allow air to bypass the insulation.
foundations (see page 92). It may be Cellulose insulation will provide addi- This is especially important at the
desirable and relatively easy to remove tional air-leakage control if applied to edges, where it may be necessary to
an existing ceiling finish. the right density. seal around the perimeter of the ceiling.
Seal this area with urethane foam
or with sections of impermeable rigid
board insulation caulked between
the joists.
103
Cold Cellar Overhangs Contracting the Work

The cold cellar walls (separating the Seal the floor of any overhang and fill it Generally, blowing insulation into a wall
heated basement from the cold cellar), with insulation. is best done by a contractor with spe-
door and ceiling should be insulated. cialty equipment. Include the following
• If the overhang is on the first floor,
Apart from saving heat, your cold cellar details in the contract: areas to be insu-
this might be accomplished from the
will be colder. lated, access details (where the holes are
basement by stuffing in some batt
drilled and their size and spacing), type
Treat the walls as outlined on pages 83, insulation to fill the space. The air
of insulation used, density of blown-in
88 and 89, making sure that the air and and vapour barrier should face up
insulation, number of bags of insula-
vapour barrier is on the warm side. to the warm side. See page 89 for
tion, clean-up and finishing (final
more details.
Treat the ceiling as outlined in the pre- finishing of the hole plugs is often the
ceding section on unheated garages. • If the overhang is between the first homeowner’s responsibility).
and second floor, the problem is
Look for a contractor who discusses the
more difficult. If you can easily lift
need for air sealing and a vapour barrier
the floorboards or remove the outside
on the warm side of the insulation, and
surface, fill the space with batt
who suggests methods of sealing some
insulation. Seal any openings into
of the more hard-to-get-at locations,
this space.
such as overhangs.
104
Attic
High levels of insulation, a continuous
air and vapour barrier, and ventilation
are the features of an energy-efficient
attic. Roof trusses are available that
allow high insulation levels over the top
plate of the outer walls. These include
dropped chord trusses and scissors and
parallel chord trusses for cathedral
ceilings.
Walls
PART V The section in the illustration at right
ADDITIONS shows a 38 mm by 140 mm (2 x 6) wall
with insulating sheathing. Other wall
AND NEW systems include interior cross-strapping,
CONSTRUCTION double-wall systems and the use of
trusses. These systems allow the
Renovation often involves continuous air and vapour barrier part
some new construction, way in the wall. Note the recessed
such as the addition of headers that allow the continuous air
a room or wing. New and vapour barrier and extra insulation.
construction provides an Windows
opportunity to install a continuous air High-performance windows are
and vapour barrier and high levels of used wherever possible, i.e., double-
insulation in an efficient and cost- glazed and with a low-E (low-
effective way. emissivity) coating, or, better,
triple-glazed with low-E coating. The
The illustration at right shows a typical majority of windows face south. All
cross section of new construction from windows are sealed to the air barrier.
the roof to the footings. Note how both
Foundation
the insulation and air barrier run continu-
The foundation has full-depth
ously without breaks or thermal bridging. insulation, in this example, on the
exterior. Proper damp-proofing, a
drainage system and sloped grade
help ensure a dry basement.
Mechanical Systems
Heating requirements are less than for a
conventional structure. Combustion air
will be needed for all fuel-burning
appliances – or better yet, use
appliances that require little or no
household air to operate. Refer to
Chapter 8 for more information on
mechanical systems.
105
7 Upgrading Windows and
Keeping the Heat In
INTRODUCTION
Windows and doors can be big energy
wasters for three reasons:
• Glass itself is a highly heat-conduc-
tive material. Similarly, many
wooden doors are highly conductive.
• Doors and operable windows have
many paths where air leakage can
occur.
• Air can pass through the joints
around window and door frames
unless they are tightly sealed.
This chapter deals with weatherstrip-
ping and other ways of upgrading
windows and doors to save energy.
106
Keeping the Heat In 7 Upgrading Windows and Doors
Doors
Windows Doors
Part I Part II
Consider new windows. If some of coating or windows that are triple-

PART I your windows are beyond repair or if glazed. Frames should be relatively non-
WINDOWS you are planning to install new win- conducting, such as wood, fibreglass or
Taking Stock dows, look at some of the higher vinyl. Metal frames, even if they have a
efficiency models. thermal break, may be more susceptible
Check the window for
to condensation.
signs of damage before
starting any work. This Condensation Problems Often the condensation occurs between
includes checking for Condensation and frosting are common panes. This is a result of moist house air
rot, mould and/or stain- complaints about windows. Sometimes leaking past the first pane and condens-
ing on or around the window, the the problem is light fogging on some ing on the cold surface of the outer
condition of the glass, putty and paint, windows; other times there may be pane. Even dry houses can suffer from
and the type of operation and condition persistent and heavy frost covering the this type of condensation problem. This
of the closing hardware. Some repair may glass. Many homeowners buy new problem is common on second storeys
be needed. windows only to find that the problem where there is more air being pushed
becomes worse. out the window because of the stack
Check the weatherstripping at all
effect. The solution is to weatherstrip
movable joints. Combine a visual Condensation occurs when water the inner sash to prevent air leakage;
inspection of the existing weatherstrip- vapour in the air is cooled to the point make sure that the weep holes, which
ping with a test using a leak detector as where it condenses on the cold surface allow water to escape, are open to the
described on page 46. New weather- as water droplets or frost. The more outside.
stripping is a good investment in humid the air and the colder the sur-
comfort and energy savings. face, the greater the accumulation of If condensation occurs inside a sealed
condensation. One solution is to reduce double-glazed unit, the problem can be
Check the glazing. Windows should
the humidity levels in the house, as corrected only by replacing the unit.
be at least double-glazed. There are
discussed on page 119. Check to see if the window is still under
many ways of adding extra glazing
warranty.
from the inside or outside, permanently Alternatively, you can increase the sur-
or seasonally. face temperature of the window and
frame. This can be done by having at
least two layers of glazing; better yet are
windows with a low-E (low-emissivity)
107
Stop
Sash
Glazing
Casing
weatherstripping types. The cheaper • Clean the surface with a clean cloth
types are usually less durable and less and fast-drying mineral spirits or
effective, so do not choose just on the MEK (methyl ethyl ketone).
basis of cost.
• Apply the weatherstripping. With
In most cases, newer windows will have doors and windows that are used
Sill
built-in weatherstripping, which can often, you may want to reinforce the
lose its effectiveness over time. Pry out a adhesive types with staples.
sample of the weatherstripping and take
• Check the window for smooth
it to the window manufacturer or sup-
Parts of a window operation.
plier for replacement with the same type.
• Periodically check the weatherstripping
Double-hung and single-hung windows
Weatherstripping for wear.
should be weatherstripped on the sides,
Windows should be weatherstripped top and bottom of the moving sash, as Sides. The thin plastic V-type weather-
around the sash to reduce air leakage. If shown in the diagram above. If there are stripping is a good choice. Open the
the windows do not have to be opened drafts around the fixed portion, these window and slip the stripping up the
and do not serve as emergency exits, areas should be caulked. crack between the sash and the frame,
they can be locked and caulked. with the mouth of the “V” facing
Preparation and installation is
outside. It need only extend to 25 mm
When sealing windows, make sure that important. This usually involves the
(1 in.) above the top of the closed win-
the inside window is sealed more tightly following steps.
dow. You can do a better job if you first
than the outside window. Otherwise,
• Adjust and square windows that are remove the stop and the bottom sash.
you will encounter condensation prob-
out of alignment.
lems as the warm, moist air from inside Top. Weatherstrip the space where
the house becomes trapped between • Remove old weatherstripping, the two sashes meet by removing the
the panes. caulking and blobs of paint. If the lower sash and applying V-type weather-
surface is very uneven, apply a bead stripping to the upper window from
Many different types of weatherstripping
of caulking under the weatherstrip- the inside.
are available. Pages 36 to 38 list a few of
ping or fill and sand the surface to
the more common varieties, but it is
make it smooth.
certainly not a complete list. Try to visit
a supplier who stocks a wide variety of
108
Note: Every bedroom must have a least one

window that opens from the inside. This is
required by the National Building Code of Canada
for safety reasons.
Polyethylene or Rigid Plastic Storm

Windows
Installing plastic sheeting over the win-
dow is an inexpensive and easy way to
Weatherstripping a swing-type improve the heat retention of your home
window on the frame or stop
and reduce condensation. The plastic
will be less durable than glass and will
have to be re-installed each year if the
that is needlessly lost through the win-
windows are opened. There is an inex-
dows in your house by almost half, and
Windows require weatherstripping pensive kit on the market that has a
a higher efficiency window will reduce
on all four sides. plastic sheet that is heat-shrunk in place
it by two thirds or more! Improved win-
using a hair dryer. This system is best
dows also will make your house more
for windows in seldom-used rooms
Bottom. Apply V-type or compression- comfortable by reducing drafts and
and basements.
type neoprene rubber to the window increasing the temperature of the inte-
sill where the closed window will sit or rior side of the window. Adding glazing A do-it-yourself plastic storm window is
to the bottom of the moving window also reduces the risk of condensation. available, made of a sheet of rigid plastic
sash itself. and a specially designed snap-in frame.
The range of the insulating value is
Some types use a magnetic strip to hold
Swing-type windows are treated like determined by the number of panes,
the plastic in place. The mounting strip
doors. Apply weatherstripping to the the thickness of air space and whether
is permanently attached to the window
frame so it meets the edge of the sash, the glazing has a specialty coating.
frame, and the strip pops open to
or place it on the stop where it will accommodate the plastic sheets. The
meet the face of the sash. The force of a Window Products and sheet can then be removed and stored in
closed window against the weatherstrip- Applications the summer. The sheets must be handled
ping makes a pressure seal. carefully, because they scratch easily.
Storm Windows
Single glazing has an RSI value of about Storm windows can be installed on the
0.16 (R-0.9), so it loses about 10 to 20 inside or the outside, and they can be
times as much heat as the same area of a permanent, seasonal or temporary.
properly insulated wall. Storm windows
or double glazing will reduce the heat
109
Interior storms must be well sealed to prevent

condensation between glazings. A permanent storm window can allow for ventilation.
Removable Storm Windows should not fit too tightly to avoid These permanent storms are more
Single-pane storm windows are designed condensation between the storm and convenient than the removable type, but
to be installed each fall and removed inner window. The inner window are also more expensive, and cleaning
each spring (unless you have air condi- must be very well sealed with caulking between the storm and the window may
tioning, in which case they stay in or weatherstripping. be a problem. Some units are available
all year long). They can be made to with an energy-efficient low-E coating.
Permanent Storm Windows
order by suppliers listed under “Storm Regardless of which type you choose,
The combination-type storm window shop around for well-made windows.
Windows and Doors” in your local
has both screening and glass in the same Look at the quality of hardware and
Yellow Pages™ directory. The major
unit, serving your needs year-round. weatherstripping and the strength of
advantage of these removable storm
These windows have metal frames and joints. These windows are a long-term
windows over permanent ones is a
are made to order by specialized suppliers investment and can increase your
lower cost.
(see “Storm Windows and Doors” in property value, so quality construction
These windows must be checked season- your local Yellow Pages™ directory). is important.
ally; damaged putty must be replaced Installation can be done by the supplier
and the frames painted regularly to or by you.
preserve the wood. Conventional storms
110
For window coverings to work properly,

they must fit tightly around the window
frame. Air passing behind the coverings
will increase heat loss and create a con-
siderable condensation problem.
Generally, the high cost of materials for
insulating windows will make this a
low-priority item for most existing
homes. If your windows need new
shades or curtains anyway, consider
Curtains can help reduce radiant heat loss from windows. methods for reducing heat loss at the
same time.
New Windows For further information on choosing One of the most practical solutions is to
Most existing windows can be repaired, new windows and doors, refer to design or buy a flexible insulating
weatherstripped and have new glass page 133 to order a copy of the curtain to pull across the window or roll
added if necessary. However, there are Consumer’s Guide to Buying Energy- down from above. The curtain should
circumstances when it is appropriate Efficient Windows and Doors. ideally be made from a heavy, multi-lay-
to buy new windows. New windows ered material covered with your choice
may be required in the following of fabric. Even one or two thick drapes
Window Protection and
circumstances: over a window should do a good job if
Operation
tightly fitted. The curtain should fit
• the old windows have deteriorated; Windows can be used to provide fresh snugly along the window ledge or be
air and remove excess humidity and weighted for a tight fit along the floor.
• there is extensive damage (such as
odours. But be careful – it is hard to A valance or enclosure along the top is a
rot) to the surrounding wall caused
control windows as ventilators and it is good way to prevent air from falling
by the old window;
easy to let too much cold air in. behind the curtain.
• you are undertaking major renova-
Shutters, shades and awnings can be
tions or building an addition; or
used to keep the sun out. Window
• you want changes in window size, insulation can be used in the winter to
their operation or the appearance of provide extra insulation for improved
the house. comfort and energy savings.
111
The easiest and most effective weather-

PART II stripping for this use is a good quality
DOORS V-shaped vinyl type. It makes contact
Doors, like windows, with the edge of the door and provides a
should fit snugly so that good seal even when the door warps
air cannot sneak in from season to season.
around the edges. Poor For increased protection, attach weath-
installation, years of hard erstripping to the stop so that it presses
use, shifting foundations and seasonal against the face of the door as shown at 1) Weatherstripping the face of
warping can often force doors out of line right. There are also many types of the door
with their frames. If they don’t fit snugly, combination metal and foam or rubber 2) Weatherstripping the edge of
fix or replace the weatherstripping. weatherstripping that are screwed to the the door
The same techniques for preparing win- stop. They should be adjusted regularly
dows applies to doors. This includes any to conform to the changing warp of the weatherstripping that attaches to the
needed repairs or adjustments, surface door. door, or with full or partial threshold
preparation and cleaning, and fastening Bottom of the door. Apply weather- weatherstripping that is attached to the
the weatherstripping. stripping to either the door sill or to the door sill.
Around the frame. Weatherstrip the door itself. This can be a difficult area to When the weatherstripping is applied to
tops and sides of any door frame as seal well, but is worthwhile because this the door itself, a very durable material is
illustrated at right. is often a source of major drafts. necessary. The most readily applied and
Use durable material that can withstand effective choice is the combination type,
traffic and be flexible enough to con- which is simply tacked or screwed along
form to changes in the door caused by the bottom inside surface of the door.
humidity and temperature. The weath- There should be slots that allow for
erstripping should also be easy to some adjustment of the weatherstripping.
replace. A good seal can usually be
obtained with gasketed door-bottom
112
Sealing a door bottom
Replacing the Door

Sometimes it is appropriate to buy new
doors. Take this opportunity to buy an
energy-efficient one. A Consumer’s
Guide to Buying Energy-Efficient
Windows and Doors can help you choose
the right door for your home. Write to
the address provided on page 133 to
order your copy.
Air sealing and repairing windows can
be good do-it-yourself projects. Alterna-
tively, these can become part of the
work of an air-sealing contractor (see
Chapter 3). If you are hiring a contrac-
tor, consider asking for a quote on some
related air-sealing work.
If you are having some of the windows
in your house replaced, ask the contrac-
tor to check the weatherstripping on the
remaining windows and replace it if it is
worn.
113
8 Operating Your House
Keeping the Heat In
INTRODUCTION
By now you should be very familiar
with the “house as a system” concept.
Like any system, however, your house
will run only as efficiently as it is ope-
rated. As the homeowner, this puts you
in the driver’s seat. How you live in your
home and maintain and operate it will
have a lot to do with the success of your
retrofit activities. If you operate it
poorly, you will negate a large part of
your retrofit gains. If you operate it
efficiently, you can actually improve
your home’s heating performance.
Even more important, you will create
a healthier, more comfortable living
environment. Most furnaces and boilers
operate below peak efficiency because
of poor maintenance. A well-tuned and
efficiently operating heating system
can significantly reduce your annual
fuel bill.
114
Keeping the Heat In 8 Operating Your House
Operating and Maintaining The Heating System Other Features

the Heating System and Ventilation Part III
Part I Part II
Hydronic systems perform best when

PART I radiators are relatively free of air. This
OPERATING AND means you must remember to bleed
MAINTAINING THE your radiators regularly unless the sys-
HEATING SYSTEM tem has an automatic bleeding capabil-
ity. Further savings can be achieved by
Maintenance adjusting the operating temperature of
Follow recommended the water according to outside condi- A programmable thermostat
maintenance proce- tions. A control can adjust the water
dures for cleaning and temperature to match the changing
second setback can reduce house
servicing. For an oil fur- demand for heat so you will never be
temperature when everyone is out of
nace and boiler, this means a thorough too hot or too cold, or pay for heat you
the house during the day and end just
cleaning and tuning each spring. For gas do not need.
before you arrive in the evening.
furnaces and boilers, servicing should be
carried out at least once every two years.
Thermostat
Most of the tune-up should be carried Sizing and Balancing
out by a qualified service technician or The greater the difference in tempera- Heating Systems
heating contractor. A series of booklets ture between inside and outside, the
A newly retrofitted house will have a
on heating systems (available from the greater the heat loss. By turning your
smaller heating need than it had before
address indicated on page 133) will give thermostat down a bit, and a bit more at
the retrofit. This smaller heating
you all the facts you need about your night, you will lose less. The best way to
requirement means that the furnace is
heating system. ensure that the thermostat gets turned
now oversized, a condition that can
down is to install a clock or setback
cause larger temperature fluctuations
thermostat. The setback thermostat will
Homeowner Maintenance and the potential for inefficient on-off
perform predetermined temperature set-
cycling of conventional furnaces.
If you have a forced-air system, keep backs automatically.
return-air grills and warm-air vents When a furnace operates less often, the
A good quality programmable thermo-
clean and free of obstructions, and chimney can get colder between burns.
stat will provide a clock timer and allow
change or clean your filters once a This can lead to downdrafting and
you at least two setback and reset periods
month. possible condensation and damage to
a day. For example, a temperature
the chimney. If your retrofit measures
If you have an electric baseboard reduction could be programmed in to
are extensive and you have a concern
system, keep your heating units clean. start before you go to bed and end
about this, have the system checked by
Vacuuming them twice a year should before you get up in the morning. The
a qualified heating-system technician.
prevent dust buildup.
115
In addition, the balance of the heat entire system is covered, with the insula- Domestic Hot Water
distribution will likely have changed. tion taped securely. Don’t wrap the
Domestic hot water systems also con-
Insulation and air sealing could mean ducts of a wood-fired furnace within
sume large amounts of energy – more
that some hard-to-heat rooms are now 1.8 m (6 ft.) unless you use a special
than all your lights and appliances com-
easier to heat, while other rooms may non-combustible insulation designed for
bined. In fact, next to space heating, the
overheat. This may require a re-balance wrapping ducts.
water heater is the largest energy user in
of the system by either adjusting the
It is also a good idea to check return-air the home.
dampers in a ducted system or adjusting
ducts, especially where they pass
valves in a hot water system. Insulating your water heater storage
through crawl spaces or garages, and
tank is a fairly simple and inexpensive
Ask the service mechanic or heating caulk or tape only leaky joints.
improvement that can help maintain the
contractor who maintains your system
For houses with hydronic systems, water temperature at the thermostat set-
what changes may be required so that
placing foil-covered insulation board ting. Some new models of water heaters
your system operates at top efficiency.
between radiators and exterior walls are well insulated and do not need an
will reflect heat back into the room that added layer, but a heater that is warm to
Heating Ducts would otherwise be lost to the outside. the touch on the side of the casing can
Heating ducts running through benefit from an insulating jacket. An
unheated or cool basements should be insulation kit that contains a vinyl-cov-
Fireplaces
insulated. First, tape the joints to pre- ered insulation jacket, pre-cut tape and
The heat supplied by a fire will not instructions can be purchased from
vent leakage. While you’re at it, it would
make up for the loss of heat when hardware stores. Follow the manufac-
be well worth your while to use alu-
house air is drawn up the chimney. turer’s instructions when installing kits.
minum foil duct tape to tape the joints
Consequently, most fireplaces are
of all heating ducts, regardless of Insulating jackets are not recommended
unable to provide any net heat gain.
whether they are to be insulated or not. for oil-fired water heaters. Caution must
There are several fireplace accessories
Then take 75 mm (3 in.) or more of be used when installing an insulating
such as tightly-fitted glass doors and
mineral-fibre batts or blankets and cut jacket on a gas-fired water heater in
outdoor air intakes that offer nominal
them to size. Specially designed batts order to avoid blocking the airflow to
improvements on fireplace efficiency.
are available for this purpose. Wrap the burner.
the insulation around the ducts or else For information on how to improve fire-
install it lengthwise. Make sure the place performance, read A Guide to
Residential Wood Heating, which can be
obtained from the address listed on
page 133.
116
Taping and insulating heating ducts in an unheated space Insulating the hot water tank
For more information on insulating thick to be effective. You can use • Fix leaky faucets. At one drop per
hot water tanks, consult with your local pieces of batt with duct tape, or the second, you are wasting 720 litres
fuel supplier. wrap-type insulation, but the ideal (160 gallons) per month – or 16 hot
pipe insulation for existing homes is baths!
Insulating the hot water tank should
the snap-on type. These are long
save enough money to pay back the • Run washing machines with full
tubes slit lengthwise that snap over
costs of materials quickly. You can save loads and rinse with cold water.
the piping and then are glued shut.
even more on your hot water bill by
acting on the following suggestions: • Install a flow restrictor in the shower-
head pipe and aerators in the faucets.
• Insulate hot water pipes that pass
These inexpensive gadgets will allow
through unheated areas or service
you to do the same job with much
washing machines. The insulation
less water.
should be at least 13 mm (1⁄2 in.)
117
It is worthwhile to take a systematic

PART II look at the moisture balance and
THE HEATING ventilation needs of your house. This
SYSTEM AND will involve a list of moisture sources,
VENTILATION AND symptoms of problems and ventilation
requirements. Consider how any renova-
COMBUSTION AIR tion or retrofit plans will affect the Sources of moisture in the home
Introduction house. For example, if the house already
Both you and your shows signs of excessive condensation,
furnace need some any plans that include making the • houses where there is competition for
fresh air coming into house more airtight will have to include air (fireplaces, powerful exhaust vents);
the house, but most increased ventilation.
• houses where there are sources of air
Canadian homes have too much. In For many, if not most, older homes a contamination (smokers, hobbies,
fact, 25 percent or more of your home’s program of comprehensive air-leakage etc.); and
heat loss can be due to excess infiltration control will not reduce the air supply
around windows, doors and other enough to cause problems. Most older • houses that produce a lot of moisture
cracks. These drafts not only cost you houses experience too much air leakage, and have high humidity levels.
money, but can make your home even after air sealing.
unpleasant during the winter. Symptoms of Problems
How tight is too tight? When do humid- Exceptions If you are aware of the symptoms indi-
ity and condensation become problems? cating the start of a problem, you can
There are times when problems can
What are the requirements for ventila- make adjustments and correct the situa-
occur, even without thorough air-leakage
tion and combustion air? This section tion before damage results. Some of the
control. It is important to be aware of
looks at some of the implications of signs to look for include the following:
the potential problems, the symptoms to
air-leakage control: how it can affect air
look for and some of the possible solu- • excessive condensation on double-
quality and the air needed for combus-
tions. The following circumstances can paned windows;
tion appliances.
make a house more susceptible to
problems: • staining and mould growth, which
often appears first in bathrooms,
• houses with electrical heat or a high- closets and on walls or ceilings
efficiency furnace (no conventional at corners;
chimney);
• stuffy atmosphere and lingering
odours;
118
Kitchen and bathroom fans should be used regularly. Low and high windows provide good ventilation.
• back-puffing/odours from the • Install a sump pump to remove The following table shows the maxi-
furnace; and excessive moisture from the soil mum levels of humidity at which there
under the slab. will be no condensation on double-
• backdrafts from the fireplace.
glazed windows at various outside
• Fix all water leaks into the basement.
temperatures.
Solutions • Do not allow any standing water in
If the problem is one of high humidity the house or against the foundation Outside Air Maximum
or condensation, the first step is to wall. Temperature Inside Humidity
reduce the humidity level by controlling (ºC) at 20ºC (68ºF)
• Make sure the ground slopes away
the amount of water vapour that goes in from the foundation wall and that –30º or below 15 percent
the air. The following suggestions will all there are properly functioning
reduce a home’s humidity levels: –30º to –24º 20 percent
eavestroughs around the house.
• Do not store wood in the house. –24º to –18º 25 percent
• Ventilate kitchens and bathrooms
• Avoid hang-drying laundry in the during use. –18º to –12º 35 percent
house. • Adjust your living habits to produce –12º to 0º 40 percent
• Disconnect any humidifiers. less humidity (cleaning, washing,
cooking, etc.). If can be very difficult to accurately
• Cover exposed earth floors in measure and maintain the recom-
basements or crawl spaces with a mended humidity levels. A simple
moisture barrier.
119
approach is to let the house become

your indicator. If condensation starts
to appear on the indoor face of any
double-glazed windows (except those in
the kitchen and bathroom), you have Fresh-air duct to the cold-air return
found the balance point. Occasional
condensation does not pose a problem. Heat recovery ventilators consist of:
Excessive condensation or frosting is an • Advanced, high-efficiency combus- 1) collection and exhaust of stale,
indication that you should reduce tion appliances are ideal for airtight moist air
moisture production or reduce humi- houses. This creates far fewer prob- 2) supply and distribution of
dity levels by increasing ventilation. lems than conventional appliances, fresh air
and at the same time, increases 3) heat exchanger to recover
energy-efficiency benefits. some of the heat from the
Increasing Ventilation outgoing air
• Open windows as needed. Windows
If you still have too much condensation
that are open on either side of the
even after reducing moisture produc- motorized damper operated by a
house or on different floors will help
tion, or your problem is one of air humidistat control. It will open the
ensure better circulation. It is harder
quality, you will have to increase ventila- damper only when the house
to control the rate of ventilation by
tion. There are several ways of doing becomes too humid.
this method, however.
this; the best method will depend on
your house, the degree of the problem • If the need for ventilation air supply • There are other types of whole-house
and your preferences. and distribution is great, a central ventilation systems that include
ventilating system can be installed. exhaust and/or supply fans. These
• A simple solution may be to turn on systems are for very tight houses that
A relatively inexpensive and effective
kitchen and bathroom fans more require a great deal of ventilation.
technique involves connecting a
often, especially when those rooms The air must be distributed through-
fresh-air duct to the return-air
are used. A simple timer switch will out the house and in a way that
plenum of a forced-air system. Fresh
turn the fan off automatically to pre- maintains comfort levels. The system
air is drawn in by the suction of the
vent excessive ventilation. should not create strong negative or
furnace fan, mixed with house air
• If you do not have ventilation fans, and preheated by the furnace. Open positive pressures in the house. This
have them installed. It is worthwhile the damper in the fresh-air duct just means that the inlet and outlet air
buying quieter fans since they tend to enough to prevent window condensa- supply has to be in balance.
be used more regularly. Make sure tion. It will have to be adjusted
that the fan installation incorporates periodically through the winter.
air-sealing measures. Alternatively, you can install a
120
Backdrafts or spillage may be caused minimized by installing an outside air

by competition for air. For example, a duct to the firebox and tight-fitting
roaring fireplace, a powerful kitchen glass doors. Otherwise, a window
ventilator, a barbeque range or even a should be opened slightly when you
clothes dryer vented to the outside can operate the fireplace.
exhaust air from the house. If the house
There are many appliances that Oil and gas furnaces may require a free
can compete for household air. is too tight, this can cause air to be
and unobstructed supply of outside air.
pulled into the house through the chim-
The size and type of ducting system will
ney or vent, resulting in backdrafts or
vary according to the type of fuel and
• Some systems are designed with the spillage.
the location and heating capacity of the
exhaust fan in the attic and several
Some of the signs of combustion air appliance. Obtain specific information
ducts pulling air from the kitchen
problems include the following: on all aspects of combustion air supply
and bathrooms. Many central ven-
systems from your local regulatory
tilation systems use a heat recovery • back-puffing of the furnace, indi-
authority, fuel supplier or heating
ventilator that typically recovers cated by soot or staining around the
contractor before work begins.
70 percent of the heat from the air intake;
exhaust air and transfers the heat to Carbon monoxide (CO) detectors are
• unusual odours from the combustion
the incoming air or to the hot water available at most hardware stores.
appliance;
supply. Central ventilation systems Properly installed, these detectors will
should be designed and installed by a • difficulty starting or maintaining a help protect occupants from accidental
professional. fire; and asphyxiation due to a failure or mal-
function of combustion appliances or
• the house’s occupants experience
the penetration of automobile fumes
Combustion Air frequent headaches or nausea.
from an attached garage. It is recom-
Furnaces, fireplaces, wood stoves and The ideal solution is to remove the mended that they be installed in any
any other fuel-burning appliances also source of the problem. If you are replac- home with combustion appliances (fire-
require air for combustion and for diluting your heating system anyway, con- place, wood stove, fuel-burning furnace)
ing and exhausting the products of sider buying a system that uses little or or an attached garage.
combustion out of the house. If there is no combustion and dilution air from
not enough air, it is possible that the Care should also be taken to prevent
inside the house (e.g., a mid- or high-
chimney or flue could backdraft or spill fumes from automobile exhausts pene-
efficiency heating system, an integrated
dangerous gases into the house. trating the home from an attached
heat pump system).
garage. Garage doors should always be
Fireplaces are one of the worst culprits open before a car engine is turned on
for robbing household air. This can be while inside a garage.
121
PART III Lighting Appliances

OTHER Using lights efficiently – and using All appliances can be used more effi-
efficient lights – will help you achieve ciently. For example, be careful not to
FEATURES even greater savings. Lights left on leave the refrigerator and freezer door
The whole, it is said, is unnecessarily, for example, will only add open longer than necessary or leave elec-
greater than the sum of its parts. In no to your energy costs. Lighting only a tric kettles boiling.
place is this more true than in your specific work area (task lighting) allows When buying a new major appliance,
household. The tips below are worth a reduction in general lighting levels and take the time to compare the rating of
their weight in fuel. will save energy. its energy use. The EnerGuide rating
There are also a variety of new light provides the monthly energy consump-
Rugs and Curtains technologies available that are ideal for tion in kilowatt-hours for that particular
homes. Compact fluorescent bulbs are model. These ratings are clearly listed
A rug on any floor over a cold part of
pencil-thin fluorescent tubes bent into a on the EnerGuide labels of refrigerators,
the house (a garage, a cold cellar or
“U” shape to reduce their size; attached freezers, ranges, dishwashers, clothes
even a coolish basement) will help to
to a regular screw-in base, they are ideal washers and clothes dryers and can be
insulate. This will not reduce heat loss
for task-lighting purposes. A 15-W used to compare one model to another.
very well, but it will make the floor
compact fluorescent bulb lamp may Alternatively, you can refer to the
feel warmer.
replace a 60-W incandescent bulb and EnerGuide Directory, available from
Despite all of the other work you have give you 10 times the life span. Natural Resources Canada, which lists
done to keep the heat in, your windows the rating of all the models currently on
still represent a weak link. However, Incandescent lights with halogen (para- the market. Even though energy-efficient
with proper design and use of window bolic aluminized reflector, or PAR, appliances may cost more, paybacks
insulation, you can benefit from solar lamps) are perfect for track lighting, are generally very attractive.
gain during the day and lessen heat loss heat lamps or exterior floods, and can
at night. In the winter, shut your cur- cut energy use by 30 to 50 percent
tains to reduce heat loss once the sun compared to regular incandescents.
has gone down and open them during
the day. During the summer, keep
curtains and windows closed during the
day to help prevent overheating.
122
General Maintenance
Once you have your house operating
efficiently, it is important to keep it that
way. Make a maintenance schedule and
check to make sure the energy-saving
measures you have initiated are working
for you. Keep an eye on your heating
system and perform regular maintenance.
Check for signs of moisture damage or
structural deterioration, and take imme-
diate action if you locate any trouble
spots. It is a good idea to inspect your
attic during the cold months. Extensive
frost buildup is a good indication that
you have a moisture problem.
Do not forget – if you look after the lit-
tle things, the heating bill will look after
itself. Make sure your weatherstripping
is in place and functioning as it should.
Check any caulking you have applied
for cracks, and recaulk as necessary. It is
important to locate and remedy small
problems and not give them a chance to
become large problems.
These simple measures will help you
save energy and leave you with a
healthier, happier home!
123
9 Dollars and Sense
Keeping the Heat In
Keep Informed • Carpenters are the generalists of the

INTRODUCTION construction field. They will frame
The housing renovation industry is one
At some point, most homeowners and insulate walls from the interior or
of the fastest growing industries in
hire a contractor for repairs, retrofit or exterior and install the air and vapour
Canada, accounting for more than half
renovation work. Even ardent do-it- barrier. Often, they will also install
of all residential construction work. It is
yourselfers hire a contractor for work attic insulation, wood siding,
a complex industry that includes gen-
that requires special tools, equipment windows and doors.
eral contractors and many different spe-
or expertise.
cialty trades. Like any other industry, • Siding specialists are often dealer-
Whether you plan to hire someone for a housing renovation is constantly chang- installers for one type of vinyl, steel
specialized part of the job or for the ing as businesses and regulatory agencies or aluminum siding. Sometimes
whole retrofit, you will want to ensure respond to changing market conditions their business combines siding with
that you are satisfied with the results. and consumer demands. The industry soffit and fascia installation or with
Many of the tips in this chapter will save is also highly subject to local conditions window and door installation.
you time and money even if you do all such as availability of materials and
general level of construction activity. • Roofers will repair roofs and replace
the work yourself. By following a few
Understanding these factors will help elements such as flashing and shin-
simple guidelines, you will ensure that
you to choose the right contractor for gles. They may also insulate the roof
the work goes smoothly, that it meets
the job. from the exterior.
your expectations and that you get what
you are paying for. • Window and door installers are
The following are some of the many dif-
ferent types of contractors who special- often dealer-installers for one or
• Be an informed consumer.
ize in various aspects of retrofit work: more products. In the case of storm
• Accompany contractors when they windows, they sometimes assemble
inspect the work. • Basement damp-proofing and foun- custom-sized units from components
dation specialists work with concrete supplied by the manufacturer.
• Establish a realistic schedule.
and masonry to repair, damp-proof
and insulate foundations. • Air-sealing specialists concentrate on
• Shop around and compare.
tightening the air barrier throughout
• Get a permit if you need one. • Blown-in insulation installers use the house, using caulking and weath-
specialized equipment to blow cellu- erstripping. They will often test the
• Provide clear instructions.
lose or mineral fibre insulation into house airtightness before and after
• Get a written quote. wall cavities or attics. the work, using a fan-door apparatus.
• Use a contract. • Spray-on insulation installers use • Some heating contractors are
specialized equipment to spray foam trained in tune-up methods that
• Monitor the job.
or cellulose insulation. go beyond regular furnace cleaning
and maintenance.
124
Keeping the Heat In 9 Dollars and Sense
Dollars and Sense
• Electricians, plumbers, drywallers, there is a scramble to “close in” buildings Comparison Shop
finish carpenters, tile setters, painters before the snow falls. The fall may not be
Retrofitting can be a very good invest-
and decorators may also be involved the best time to look for a contractor to
ment, but it is still important to get the
in a retrofit project. undertake an exterior retrofit.
most for your money. Both the price of
• General contractors are the band Labour strikes that affect new construc- materials and the rates of contractors
leaders of the renovation field. They tion also affect the renovation field. can vary considerably. It almost always
orchestrate and direct all the other Material shortages can also upset sched- pays to comparison shop before you
trades, but they usually employ their ules and the normal flow of work. go ahead.
own framers and finish carpenters.
Smart scheduling, particularly for smaller The renovation and retrofit industry is
If you are hiring one or more trades-
jobs, can make the job run smoothly known for a high turnover of businesses.
people, then you are acting as your
and save you a lot of money. Make use Knowing what to look for can help you
own general contractor on the job.
of seasonal and local conditions to order select contractors who are serious about
materials and hire contractors in the off- their business. Conditions will vary
Scheduling Appropriately season when materials are on sale and among provinces and communities,
Seasonal and local conditions will contractors are not charging a premium. but it is good practice to look for the
affect the availability of contractors and Generally, winter is the slow season in following certifications and credentials:
materials. Being aware of the conditions construction but ideal for interior work.
• Business licence: All provinces
in your area will help you to schedule An early spring start for outside work
license companies that sign contracts
your work for the best time. Many will give you a better choice of contractors
in the home. Check with your
tradespeople work in both new construc- and lower prices. Some materials such
provincial department of consumer
tion and retrofit projects. If there is a as insulation are subject to seasonal sales
affairs. (Some municipalities also
new-construction “boom” on in your as manufacturers and building-supply
require a business licence.)
area, then fewer contractors will be houses clear out last year’s inventory.
available for smaller retrofit jobs. The Check with your local building-supply
construction field is seasonally depen- house that services contractors. When
dent. When the season has been busy, there is a shortage of materials or a con-
struction boom, it may pay you to post-
pone your work a few months.
125
• Trade membership: Many types of apply. Ask prospective contractors of their business. A large general con-
contractors have their own trade asso- what qualifications and technical tractor who did a successful major reno-
ciations; many heating contractors education they and their workers vation for your friends may not be the
belong to the Heating, Refrigerating possess and how regularly they right choice for a small attic retrofit.
and Air Conditioning Institute of update them. Finally, check to see how busy they are;
Canada (HRAI), and the National you don’t want to be last in line for a
• Insurance: Contractors should be
Energy Conservation Association contractor who’s overbooked.
insured for their business and the
(NECA) is the association whose
work they do on your home. This As you narrow down the list, you should
members retrofit building envelopes.
should include public liability, prop- end up with at least three contractors
The Canadian Home Builders’
erty damage and any damage within whom you will ask to quote on the job.
Association (CHBA) has renovation
the first year after completion of
councils in many provinces which
the work.
represent general renovation contrac- Permits, Codes and Standards
tors. Association membership is an • Warranty: Contractors should always
While you are at the planning stage,
indication to the consumer that the provide a warranty or guarantee on
check with the building department of
contractor is concerned about the the work performed. In some cases
your municipality to find out which
quality of work performed by its the warranty is provided solely by the
permits you’ll need. This varies from
industry. contractor; in other trades it is
province to province, but usually special
backed by the trade association or is
• Better Business Bureau: Local permits are required for any changes to
third-party insured.
offices of this organization maintain plumbing, heating and electrical wiring.
records for any complaints against • Track record: The best recommenda- Building permits are also required for
businesses. tion for any business is a satisfied any excavation, additions, changes or
customer. Ask for recommendations alterations to the walls of a building.
• Technical qualifications: In some
from friends and neighbours and
provinces, tradespeople such as The purpose of the permit process and
check out recent work performed by
electricians, plumbers and heating the related inspections is to ensure that
the company.
contractors are required to have tech- the work on your home meets provincial
nical certification as well as a business To find the right contractor, start with a or municipal requirements for health
licence. In addition, technical update list of those recommended by your and safety, and that it is structurally
courses are offered by various associa- friends, other tradespeople you have sound. The National Building Code of
tions for their members. Check with dealt with or building suppliers. Then Canada, developed by the Associate
the association in your area to find make sure they are experienced with the Committee on the National Building
out what technical qualifications type of work you’re proposing and that Code, serves as a model for the
the size of your job is suited to the scale provinces, which have the authority to
regulate buildings. Membership on
126
this committee includes architects, • The Canadian General Standards The amount of detail in your written
engineers, academics, land surveyors, Board (CGSB) is a government instructions will vary depending on the
municipal inspectors, builders and agency operating as a national size of the job. Remember, building
consumers. Many provinces have adopted standards-writing body. components are hidden from sight once
the National Building Code in whole or the job is completed, so it is important
in part, and some have a separate code or to describe clearly what you want. For a
Provide Clear Instructions
section of the code governing renovation simple attic retrofit, you may need just a
activities. In some cases the province Whether you plan to hire just one sub- set of written notes outlining the work.
delegates some of the supervisory roles tradesperson or a general contractor for a This might include the area to be insu-
to the municipality. major renovation, it’s important to be lated, the amount and type of insulation
specific about the work to be done. and RSI value to be achieved, and direc-
A building inspector can be a valuable Without clear instructions to all con- tions for installing the air barrier, vapour
resource for your project. With their cerned, misunderstandings can occur barrier and any required ventilation. A
many years of experience in the con- and you may not get what you thought major renovation or retrofit may require
struction field, inspectors can often you bargained for. some or all of the following:
provide valuable advice on quality of
workmanship, local construction Giving clear instructions about what • a site plan;
practices, suitable materials and other you want and expect is important at
three different stages of the job: • floor plans;
concerns, in addition to ensuring that
your work meets the building code. • Planning: Drawings and specifica- • elevations of the house exterior;
Codes will often state that products or tions may be required for your permit • a cross section of the house;
installation methods must conform to a application. Preparing written
instructions will also help you to • detailed drawings; and
certain standard. There are three organi-
zations that write standards and test and ensure that you’ve included all essen- • written specifications.
certify products affecting residential tial aspects of the job in your plans.
Your local building department can
renovation work: • Getting quotes: Clear directions advise you on what information is
• CSA International is a non-govern- are necessary to obtain comparable required for the permit. In addition,
ment agency that prepares standards quotes with all the contractors you should include instructions about
and certifies products such as electri- bidding on the same materials and disposal of building materials, responsi-
cal fixtures. quality of work. bility for permit applications, temporary
• Under contract: Including clear services (if needed) and other details for
• Underwriters’ Laboratories of
instructions in the contract will help major jobs.
Canada (ULC) certifies mainly
products related to fire safety. to ensure that there are no misunder-
standings while the work is in progress.
127
Get a Written Quote affairs office. The guidelines below pro- These documents should be checked
vide an example of what is likely to be by your lawyer.
For proper comparison, you will need a
required.
number of quotes. Using your written Take the time to review the contract
instructions will ensure that all the con- • Your name and address, the contrac- carefully (including all the fine print)
tractors are bidding on the same job. tor’s name and address, the contractor’s and make sure that you understand
Always insist on a written quote that full company name, phone number everything before you sign it. A serious
includes all the details in your set of and name of the company’s signing contractor will appreciate your thor-
instructions. It’s also wise practice to ask officer. oughness and will not mind waiting a
the contractors to supply two or more day or two.
• A detailed description of the work to
references of previous clients with their
be done under the contract. (Include Read the fine print carefully. Some firms
quote. When comparing quotes, double-
your written instructions and any have worded their contracts in such a
check to make sure that the contractor
plans and specifications.) way that they are not responsible for any
understood the instructions; a very
problems following the work. Such
low bid may mean that the contractor • An itemized price for the work and
clauses usually imply that any subse-
misunderstood the work or substituted the terms of payment.
quent problems (e.g., peeling paint,
lower quality materials and workmanship.
• A statement of any warranty or guar- cracks) are related to “hidden construc-
Take the time to evaluate all the quotes antee on the work to be performed. tion defects” that existed prior to the
and to check the references. Do not let retrofit work. This may not necessarily
• Specific dates for starting the work
anyone pressure you into signing a con- be the case. Stroke out these clauses
and completing it.
tract before you are ready. before you sign.
• Signatures of both parties, with each
All verbal agreements should be written
retaining an original signed copy of
Use a Contract into the contract. If there are minor
the contract.
Once you’ve chosen a contractor, insist changes you wish to make, write them
on a written contract. The contractor For smaller jobs the contract need in on both copies of the contract. They
may have a standard printed form but it not be a complicated document, but will be valid if initialled by both you
should be used only as a starting point it should include all the items listed and the contractor.
for negotiations. above. The amount of detail in the
contract should increase with the size
While there is no such thing as a stan- Make Sure You Have Recourse
of the job. For major renovations and
dard contract, provincial legislation may retrofit jobs, a full set of contract Insist on a written warranty as part of
specify what must be included in a con- documents should be prepared, includ- the contract. Responsible contractors
tract for it to be effective. Check with ing plans and detailed specifications. will guarantee their work and assume
your municipal or provincial consumer responsibility for problems that could
develop later as a result of their work.
128
Be wary when asked to pay in advance Never sign on impulse. Ask the salesper- required to keep track of the work
or in cash to a salesperson rather than by son to give you a copy of the contract so and resolve any problems as they arise.
cheque or money order to the company you may think it over; if this request is The payment schedule should be tied
itself. If a downpayment is required, refused, it’s probably because you are on to work actually done, and not to
keep it as small as possible. Usually the the verge of closing a bad deal. Shop predetermined dates. Where permits
first payment is made only on delivery around to compare quality and prices. are involved, you may wish to tie in
of materials to the site. Advance down- Do not be pressured into buying. progress payments to successful passing
payments are restricted to situations of the various building inspections
If you sign a contract in your home,
where the contractor has to place an during the course of the job.
remember that all provincial statutes
advance order for large quantities of
regulating direct (door-to-door) sales Your final payments should be made
special materials (such as custom-made
have a so-called “cooling off ” provision. only some time after the work is totally
windows). Payment schedules should
This gives you the right to cancel a con- complete. In most provinces, legislation
be tied to work actually completed and
tract signed with a door-to-door sales- permits you to retain a set percentage of
not to arbitrary dates. Any provisions
person within a specified number of the total cost of the work for a specific
for holdbacks should be written into
days. The number of days varies from period of time. The purpose of this
the contract.
province to province; check with your holdback is to help limit your liability
You should also be aware that if your provincial consumers’ bureau. There should a contractor fail to pay suppliers,
contract is sold to a third party, such as may be other instances where you can workers or sub-trades. The legislation
a finance company, you are obligated to cancel your contract after the cooling- varies from province to province. Your
it regardless of any complaints you may off period is over. Again, check with provincial consumers’ bureau will be
have about the quality of the work. your provincial consumers’ bureau. able to provide you with details.
Take Extra Precautions with Monitor Performance

Door-to-Door Salespeople When you hire a contractor, it is your
Be especially careful when dealing with responsibility to make sure that the job
firms that sell their services through is done on time and on budget. For
door-to-door salespeople. Fly-by-night smaller jobs, this may simply mean
and unreliable businesses are more likely being on hand to make sure that
to depend on door-to-door sales. Insist materials are the same quality and type
on seeing the sales representative’s card. as stated in the contract and that the
Check if the company has a permanent work method follows your written
office location that you can call if instructions. For larger jobs, a daily
problems occur with the product or meeting with the contractor may be
installation.
129
Keeping the Heat In
Index
Additions ......................................................................105 Attics .........................................................................55-63

Air barriers Attic hatches....................................................................52
general ......................................................10, 14, 32, 38
Baffles .............................................................................60
materials ................................................................32-38
Basements ..................................................................74-91
Air-leakage control
attics ...........................................................57-58, 59, 65 Cathedral ceilings.......................................................68-69
attic hatches ..........................................................52, 58
Caulking...................................................33-35, 42, 48-49
basements ...................................................................48
cathedral ceilings.........................................................68 Chimneys .............................................................51-52, 58
chimneys.........................................................51, 58, 62
Codes and standards ...........................................5, 126-127
chutes .........................................................................52
detection of air leaks....................................................46 Cold cellars........................................................83, 88, 104
doors..................................................................112-113
Combustion air............................................14, 17, 45, 121
electrical outlets ..........................................................50
fireplaces.....................................................................51 Common wall .................................................................65
fixtures............................................................55, 63, 66
Condensation (see Moisture problems)
flat roofs .....................................................................68
floors......................................................................90-91 Contracts...............................................................127, 128
garages ..........................................................83, 88, 103
Crawlspaces ................................................................90-91
general...............................................3, 14-15, 22, 44-53
header area..................................................................83 Damp-proofing ............3, 16, 59, 60, 62, 63, 64, 69, 71, 75
overhangs ............................................................89, 104
Doors ....................................................23, 36-38, 112-113
plumbing penetrations ................................................88
trim areas....................................................................50 Dormer windows.............................................................66
walls .............................................58, 66, 72-73, 99, 100
Dropped ceilings .............................................................71
windows.................................................51, 52, 106-111
wiring ...................................................................55, 57 Electrical outlets ...................................................35, 38,50
Air sealing (see Air-leakage control) Fireplaces...........................................................17, 45, 116
Air and vapour barriers ..................................20, 49, 56, 60 Flashing.................................................19, 55, 78, 81, 101
Appliances.....................................................................122 Flat roofs....................................................................68-69
Frost heave.....................................................77, 84, 90, 91
130
Keeping the Heat In • Index
Garages .............................................................83, 88, 103 Moisture barriers .......................................................20, 39

Gaskets...........................................................35-36, 50, 57 New construction ..........................................................105
Half storeys................................................................64-66 Open foundations............................................................92
Health and safety .............5, 17, 40-43, 63, 79, 84, 118-121 Overhangs ...............................................................89, 104
Heating system ........................3, 17, 22, 45, 115, 118, 121 Quotes ..........................................................................127
Heritage buildings ...........................................................22 Permits ...................................................................126-127
Hiring a contractor..........................5, 53, 93, 104, 124-129 Recessed light fixtures ..........................................55, 63, 66
House as a system ....................................4, 10, 21, 45, 114 RSI value (R-value) ................11-13, 26-31, 60, 67, 101-102
Humidity (see Moisture) Sealants (see Caulking)
Insulation Vapour barriers ..........................................................20, 39
attics ..........................................55, 60-63, 65-67, 70-71
Ventilation
basements ..............................................................76-89
attics ...............................................................58, 63, 64
concrete slabs ..............................................................93
combustion air ..........................................................121
crawl spaces............................................................90-91
crawl spaces............................................................90-91
general..............................................................11-12, 22
house.......................................................15-17, 118-121
half storeys.............................................................64-65
hot water heaters ................................................116-117 Weatherstripping...................................36-38, 52, 108, 112
materials ................................................................25-42
Wind barriers ............................................................10, 14
open foundations.........................................................92
roof.............................................................................72 Windows
walls ......................................................................96-99 insulation ...........................................................108-109
new windows ............................................................111
Lighting ........................................................................122
storm windows .............................................23, 109-111
Moisture
Wiring ................................................................55, 66, 85
attics ...........................................................................55
basements ...................................................................75
crawl spaces.................................................................90
general ............................................9-10, 18-19, 118-121
sources ................................................................18, 118
walls ...........................................................................95
windows ...................................................................107
131
Keeping the Heat In
Need More Information?
NEED MORE EnerGuide for Home Heating Every New House Should Be
and Cooling This Good
INFORMATION? If you are interested in a particular R-2000 homes are the best built, most
Order Free Publications from energy source, the OEE has booklets on comfortable homes in Canada, and they
the OEE heating with electricity, gas, oil, heat use up to 50 percent less energy than
The Office of Energy Efficiency (OEE) pumps and wood. Other publications conventional dwellings. R-2000 homes
of Natural Resources Canada offers are available on heat recovery ventilators, feature state-of-the-art heating systems,
many publications that will help you wood fireplaces, gas fireplaces, air con- high levels of insulation and whole-
understand home heating systems, ditioning your home and comparing house ventilation systems that provide
home energy use and transportation home heating systems. continuous fresh air to all rooms.
efficiency. These publications explain Subject to quality assurance checks
what you can do to reduce your energy EnerGuide for Choosing the Most during the construction process, once
use and maintenance costs while Energy-Efficient Products completed, R-2000 homes are certified
increasing your comfort and helping to as being energy efficient.
protect the environment. When shopping for household appli-
ances, office equipment, lighting prod-
ucts, and windows and doors, consult
Renovating Your Home the OEE’s series of Consumers’ Guides.
Fact sheets are available on air-leakage They’ll help you know what to look for
control, improving window energy when it comes to energy efficiency.
efficiency and moisture problems. The EnerGuide label, which is affixed
Before you renovate, consider contacting to all new major electrical household
an energy advisor who will perform an appliances and room air conditioners,
energy evaluation of your home and helps you compare the energy ratings
provide expert unbiased advice. Our of all models sold in Canada. EnerGuide
telephone operators can connect you ratings are also listed in the OEE’s
with an advisor in your local area. annual directories of major electrical
household appliances and room air
conditioners.
132
Keeping the Heat In Need More Information?
Buying, Driving and Maintaining To receive any of these free

Your Car publications, please write or call:
For information on vehicle fuel con- Energy Publications
sumption, look for the EnerGuide label Office of Energy Efficiency
that appears on every new automobile, Natural Resources Canada
van and light-duty truck for sale in c/o St. Joseph Communications
Canada. It helps you compare different Order Processing Unit
vehicles’ city and highway fuel con- 1165 Kenaston Street
sumption ratings and estimated annual PO Box 9809 Station T
fuel costs. You can also check the OEE’s Ottawa ON K1G 6S1
Fuel Consumption Guide, produced
annually, which provides the same Tel.: 1-800-387-2000 (toll-free)
information for all vehicles. The OEE’s National Capital Region: 613-995-2943
EnerGuide for Vehicles Awards also Fax: 613-740-3114
recognize the vehicles with the lowest TTY: 613-996-4397 (teletype for the
fuel consumption in different categories. hearing-impaired)
Also available is the OEE’s Car Economy
Please allow three weeks for delivery.
Calculator, a fuel log that helps you cal-
culate your fuel consumption and sav- Publications can also be ordered or viewed
ings. on-line at the OEE’s Energy Publications
Virtual Library:
The OEE’s Auto$mart Guide provides
energypublications.gc.ca
detailed fuel efficiency information and
offers tips on purchasing, operating and
maintaining personal vehicles.
133
Keeping the Heat In
Notes
134
Keeping The Heat In
Notes
135
Keeping the Heat In
Notes
136
Natural Resources Canada’s Office of Energy Efficiency
Leading Canadians to Energy Efficiency at Home, at Work and on the Road

Keeping The Heat in

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Keeping the

Revised March 2007

Cat. No. M144-41/2007E (Print)

© Her Majesty the Queen in Right of Canada, 2007

Aussi disponible en français sous le titre : Emprisonnons la chaleur

About This Book

• Other opportunities for retrofit may

Do It Yourself or Hire a Contractor

comfortable controlled indoor environ-

Conduction Convection Radiation

Heat can move by conduction, convection and radiation.

Wind effect Stack effect Combustion and ventilation effect

Nominal RSI Value Nominal R-Value

Insulation works by trapping small pockets of air. 10.6 60

divides the air space into many small

Some insulation materials are marked • It is also important to install the

Degree-Day (DD) Zones

Walls RSI 3.0 3.6 4.1 5.3

Basement RSI 3.0 3.0 3.0 3.0

Roof or RSI 4.5 5.6 6.7 9.0

Floor (over RSI 4.7 4.7 6.7 9.0

The important point is that these

A system for controlled ventilation con-

Providing Air for Combustion

Quantity of Moisture Added to the Air Through Various Household Activities

Water vapour condenses as either

How Much Humidity?

3. Preventing moist indoor air from properly installed. Polyethylene sheets

Further information on the house as a

Although there are bound to be some

Insulation Air-Barrier Vapour-Barrier Health and Safety Special Health

• resistance to high temperatures; • Does one insulation require more

Batt insulation Blown-in insulation

Note: Unless otherwise indicated, all the insu-

• Because of its small particle size, can

• Hand-poured glass fibre works best

• Usually hand-installed. • Above-grade type covered with a

• Typical insulating value of 0.042 Semi-Flexible Isocyanurate Plastic Foam

Air-Barrier System Components • Does it serve other functions such

Caution: Exterior products should not be

stripping or gasket. For example, caulking Acoustical Sealant

Electrical outlet gasket Foam backer rod

Closed-cell foam Ribbed Tubular

Tension Strips • Effective for doors and hinged Door Sweeps

Taping an air duct Electrical box

Tape Sheathing Tape Other Items

Warning: An older home may contain insula-

• Protect your back when lifting heavy

when handling glass fibre, mineral wool

Warning: Older homes, especially those built

PART I Leak Detector

Do-it-yourself pressure test Typical leakage areas

Caulking Basics Caulking gun and tube

Note: If you plan to caulk around items

Installing a polyethylene air and vapour barrier:

Sealing electrical outlets Sealing behind window trim

If you have a factory-built metal chim-

Contracting the Work

Adding more insulation is only half the

General Easily Accessible Houses with Special Renovations

Assessments attic during or just after a rain storm

Some attics are easier to work in than others.