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Weaving Calculations

# Weaving Calculations

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04/01/2015

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CHAPTER - 7WEAVING CALCULATION & USEFUL FORMULAS:7.1. Count:
A number indicating the Mass per unit Length OR
The length per unit mass of Yarn.
Expression of the
fineness
of Yarn.
There are three Systems to Calculate Count -
1. Indirect System2. Direct System3. Universal System1 Lea = 120 yd7 Leas =1 hank1 Hank =840 yds. or 768 meter
1. Indirect system
Total No. of hanks per one pound is the
count
of that yarn (Ne) i.e. if 10 hanks (10 x840 yds. or 7680 meters) weighs one Pound or 0.454 Kg, then the Count of Yarn in indirectsystem 10s or 10Ne.This System widely used for staple fiber spun yarns like 100% Cotton, Viscose,Polyester fibers and their blends.Higher the yarn Count i.e Ne the yarn is finer
2. Direct System
Count = Weight in grams per 9000 meters of yarnIn this system the yarn numbering is called as
Denier (D)
Higher the yarn number i.e Denier the yarn is coarser.
3. Universal System
Count = No of grams per 1000 meters or per km of yarn.In this system count is called as
Tex

PoundsinWeightyards)(840hanksinLength Count
=

Commonly used other numbering systemsI. Nf - French count: - It is the No of 1000 meters length in ½ kg of yarnII. Nm - Metric system: - Count is the No of 1000 meters length per kg. ofyarn.III. Worsted system: - Count is the No. of 560 yards in one lbs.IV. Linen system: - It is the No. of leas of 300 yards per poundV. Hemp, Jute, Flax: - Count is the No of 14,400 yards length per pound ofyarn
Conversion System
English (Ne) to Denier (D)

- Denier
=
5315 / Ne

English (Ne) to Tex

- Tex
=
590.5 / Ne

French (Nf) to English (Ne)

- English (Ne)
=
Nf x 1.181
7.2. Twist per Inch or meter (TPI or TPM)
To give strength to the yarn, certain twist is given in the yarn.
TPI vary according to end use of yarn. More twist for warp yarns, medium twistfor weft yarns and less twist for hosiery yarns.
We calculate the twist as TPI or TPM.
Twist is given in ‘Z’ direction or ‘S’ direction.
If twist is given in CW direction it is ‘Z’ twist.
If it is given in CCW direction it is ‘S’ twist.
Single yarns are given ‘Z’ twist and double yarns are given ‘S’ twist.
Twist relation for double yarn TPI = 0.7 x Single yarn TPI
7.3. Multi-filament Yarns
Multi-filament yarn are identified as 80/34/250, 80/34/0, 155/16/120Here the first number denotes the Denier, second shows No. of filaments in the yarn& the last indicate No. of Twist per meter.
7.4. Winding Calculation
Slub – catcher settings:a. Fixed Blade = Carded - (2.0 to 2.5) x DiameterCombed - (1.5 to 2.0) x Diameterb. Oscillating Blade = Smooth micro-set - 25% more than above

c. Serrated Blade = 100% more than the aboved. Electronic yarn clearer = 3 cm x 3 DiameterDiameter =
inches)countx(281/
For Blended yarn = 10 to 15% more settingsYarn clearer efficiency =
100presentFaultsremvedFaults
×
Knot factor =
faultsbleobjectionatodueBreaksof No. faults)(atwindingduringbreaksTotal
Retained splice strength =
yarnparentof strength 100 jointsplicedof stength
×
Winding Tension = 0.1 x Single strength in gramsOptimum spindles / winder N =
1Sy4.8
+×
ORExpected efficiency E =
( )
9812NS Y4500
+××
Expected production P =
( )
C981213Y
×+
/ Winder per 8 hrs. in kgsY = Length / Bobbin (meters.) B = breaks per bobbinS = Winding speed (meters./min) C = English count
7.5. Warping Calculations:
Machine Efficiency E =
SR100R
+×
R = Uninterrupted running Time for 1000 meters (sec) =
mtr/minin speedMachine 601000
×
S = total of time, in seconds for which the machine is stopped for a production of 1000meters.=
T4CLT3LT2400T1NB R
+×++××+
B = End breaks / 400 ends / 1000 meters N = Number of ends.L = Set Length in 1000 meters C = Beams per creel.Timing of activities in Seconds areT1 = To mend a break T2 = To change a beamT3 = To change a Creel T4 = Miscellaneous Time loss / 1000 mtrs.

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