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How to Build a Greenhouse

How to Build a Greenhouse

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Published by SabrinaMe

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Published by: SabrinaMe on Mar 17, 2010
Copyright:Attribution Non-commercial


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How to build a Greenhouse
This is the
imperial (ft and ins)version
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age 1 of 2
TICLE CONTENTS -User Comments/Photos Description STEP 1. The greenhouse base STEP 2. The side walls STEP 3. The roof frames STEP 4. The end walls STEP 5. The windows STEP 6. The doors STEP 7. The greenhouse cover  Materials and quantities 
 This greenhouse, approx 8ft wide x approx 10ft long , is lightweight, portable (can be fixed more permanently if required), inexpensive and easy to construct. The cover is clear UV-resistant polythene film. This greenhouse is ideal for those areas with a tendency to have just enoughwinter frosts to be annoying.
Lumber and lumber size.
The lumber used in this project is 'sawn' also called rough sawn or rough lumber. That means that the lumber has not been dressed (surfaced, planed or gauged). If you prefer to used dressed lumber, then the sizes (width and thickness) of the lumber will differ.For example; a piece of 2"x 3" lumber when dressed will end up being approximately 1 1/2" x 21/2". If you use dressed lumber some measurement adjustments will need to be made tocompensate for the difference in lumber size.
Where to place the greenhouse.
Pick a site likely to get the winter sun. The site should not be in an area likely to be boggy andshould be level or in a place that is easy to make level. If the site is below a hill or slope, then itmight be necessary to put in a drain (open, tile or scoria) to re-direct any water flow away fromthe greenhouse site.
STEP 1. The greenhouse base
 Once the level greenhouse site has been determined, make the base which is constructed out of 
" treated, or natural decay-resistant, sawn lumber.Make a rectangle 9
-1/2" x 118" as shown in the drawing above. Fix the lumber together in thecorners by using galvanized nails and nail plates.Check that the two diagonal measurements are equal. If they are not, make any necessaryadjustments. When the diagonals are equal, then the base is square.Check that the base is level, either by using a spirit level and a straight edge or by usingthewater level methodSecure the base in place by driving stakes into the ground around the perimeter. Nail the stakes to the base and cut flush any stakes protruding higher than the base lumber.Back to Contents 
STEP 2. The side walls
Construct all the framing out of 2"x3" treated, or natural decay-resistant, sawn lumber.On a flat piece of ground, make two side wall frames as per dimensions shown in the drawingabove.Make the diagonal measurements equal (in the same way as with the base in Step 1) and whenthe walls are square, cut and fix the bracing members in place. (See above drawing.)Stand the two side walls upright and temporarily prop up in place on top of the base. Fix the bottom plate of the side walls to the base boards with galvanized nails.Back to Contents 
STEP 3. The roof frames
 Cut all roof frame pieces as per dimensions shown above. Use 2"x3" treated, or natural decay-resistant, sawn lumber.In all, cut 5 rafters @ 7
", 5 rafters @ 51-1/2" and 5 uprights @ 12-7/8" all with end anglecuts as shown in drawing.Also cut five triangular gussets 19-5/8" x 19-5/8" x 19-5/8" from a sheet of 3/8" treated plywood.On a flat piece of ground, make up the five roof frames to the pattern and dimensions as shownin above drawing. Ensure the two furthest points are 9
-1/2" apart and then nail the triangular gussets in place with galvanized flathead nails spaced about 2" apart, one gusset to each roof frame.Lift the 5 roof frames in place on top of the side walls, one roof frame to each end of the sidewalls and the other three spaced evenly in between. Fix the roof frames to the side wall top platewith galvanized nails.Temporarily prop the two end roof frames plumb (vertical). Nail the fascia board (1x6) to the top of the roof frames as shown in the drawing below, makingsure all the roof frames are vertical and parallel with each other.Fix the window support plate (2"x3") in place under the roof frame apex and behind the fascia board. (See drawing below.)Brace the roof on the side that has no windows. Nail metal strapping from the apex of both endroof frames down to the middle of the side wall top plate.

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