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Worldchefs

No. One
Special World
Congress Issue
Official Magazine of the World Association of Chefs Societies

Anno 2010

Wacs 2010 Chile Global Focus


City of New Culinary Chefs On International
Santiago Experiences Challenge Chefs Day
World Chefs Magazine
publisher
world association of chefs societies
WACS

Welcome
52 avenue Victor Hugo
F-75116 Paris
T. + 33 (0)6 64 22 33 21
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www.worldchefs.org
Editorial
Ragnar Fridriksson
WACS Office Manager

Design & Layout


Tomas Bolli Hafthorsson
Dear friends and colleagues around the world, G2media
cover photo
Its with a great pleasure for me to present to you the first edition Ragnar fridriksson
of the WorldChefs Magazine, the official World Association of Guest writers
Chefs Societies magazine. It has been a challenge for us to put Sara Harrel
this together in such a challenging time as this. But Chefs like Susanne V. Metz
challenges and I think that this magazine shows that everything Catherine M. Bergeron
is possible and hopefully it will reflect the passion in all our Euda Morales
members’ hearts. ALAN PETER KALLENS GAZITUÅLA

Do you wish to advertise or


One of the most important means that makes an organisation publish articles in World
such as this one work is effective communication. We Chefs Magazine?
promised you in Dubai that we would establish better means of Email: office@worldchefs.org

communications for the members and by putting together our Executive Committee
new website and this magazine, we hope to have achieved these President
goals. But, there is one thing that is important for all of you to Gissur Gudmundsson
Gissur Gudmundsson
president remember; all of the members of this organisation form a team Vice-President
of WACS Hilmar B. Jonsson
and its important for all the team members of WACS to learn
to use the communication resources that WACS offers in order Secretary General
Helgi Einarsson
to improve our reach and effectiveness but also to maximize
exchanges between all our members. Treasurer
Norbert Schmidiger
Board Members
This first edition of the magazine is dedicated to the World
Dr. Bill Gallagher
Congress held in Santiago, Chile from the 24th to the 28th of Honorary life President
January. Our next magazine will focus on the World Cup in Ferdinand E. Metz
Luxembourg in November 2010. We welcome any chefs or Past President
culinarians from around the world that would like to write Jorge E. Monti de Valsassina
articles or buy advisement to contact the office in Paris for more Continental Director - Americas
information. Its our dream that all of the members will see the Arnold Tanzer
opportunity to share information, recipes, news, stories and Continental Director
- Africa/Middle East
other important matters for Chefs in this magazine. 
Glenn Austin
Continental Director
Now friends and colleagues in WACS, it has been one of the - Pacific Region
greatest and at the same time most challenging twenty months
John Sloane
of my life to serve you as president. I have to thank you for this Continental Director - Asia
great honour. I would like to use this opportunity also to thank Brendan O’Neill
everyone involved in putting together the WorldChefs Magazine, Continental Director
your vision and voluntary work has helped us to share news and - Europe North

ideas with members from all over the world. Reinhold Metz
Continental Director
- Europe Central
With Culinary Friendship,
Srecko Koklic
Continental Director
Gissur Gudmundsson - Europe South
WACS President Committee Chairmen
John Clancy
Education Committee

Robert Oppeneder
Culinary Competition Committee

Martin Kobald
Communication
& Marketing Committee

04 www.worldchefs.org
contents
04 Welcome By President of WACS 19 Key note speakers 37 Book review
05 Our vision is rethinking tradition 20 Global Chefs Challenge 38 Inspiring Iceland - Travelling
06 WACS & YOU - What is WACS? 23 A continent full of flavours 42 Heading and feeding of vegetarians
08 WACS news 24 4 recetas from Chile 44 Norway 2014
11 Women in WACS - Are we there yet ? 26 Santiago gastronomic poles 46 stanbul 2014
12 Humanitarian 28 Desert in all directions 47 WACS event calendar 2010
12 Myanmar 30 Valparaiso-World Heritage port
14 International chefs day 32 Colchugua Wine experience
35 Latin American Cuisine
16 Focus : Chile is the place!
16 Welcome to Chile 36 In&Out of the Kitchen
18 Congress highlights 36 Essential tools of the trade

16 24 38

The wacs presidium

Gissur Gudmundsson Hilmar b. jonsson helgi einarsson


president vice president secretary general
of WACS of WACS of WACS

Our Vision is RETHINKING TRADITION


“Tradition becomes our security, and when the mind is secure it is in decay”
– Jiddu Krishnamurti

We believe in a WACS that is truly a guiding light for chefs all over the world and that is conscientiously devoted to its members‘ voice.
The challenge before us now is to focus on the greater issues of our industry; the next generation of chefs must become a greater focal
point of our effort within WACS. Other important issues concern getting the network of chefs which exists to reach further out to
draw new members and connect existing members. We believe the accessibility of information and development of resources related
to the culinary industry is crucial to this. Trying to uphold tradition while keeping up with the changes of modern times should lead
WACS to regularly rethink the way it operates. This means some risks have to be taken in order to let the culinary arts advance in a
positive way; a way that can benefit all members of WACS.

www.worldchefs.org 05
wacs and you
“Those who are one in food are one in life”
– Malagasi saying

WACS Membership
WACS membership is open to one major culinary
ASSOCIATION or FEDERATION of recognised independent
countries. Individual members of these associations automat-
ically become members of WACS.
What is WACS?
The World Association of Chefs Societies, first founded in WACS members are entitled to
October 1928 at the Sorbonne in Paris, is a global network • Participating in WACS Congresses and Regional Forums.
of member nations; each represented by the countries’ most • Attending all approved WACS competitions.
important and prestigious Chef Association or Federation. • Attending WACS Judges´ seminars.
Today, this global body is made up of over 85 international • Acquiring WACS Judges´ passport.
member nations. It is managed by an elected Executive • Education opportunities.
Committee consisting of the President, Vice-President, • Networking between member chefs across the globe.
Secretary General and Treasurer – as well as a board • Cross cultural training opportunities.
consisting of the Honorary President, Past President and • Junior Chef activities and more.
seven Continental Directors from Africa/Middle East,
the Americas, Asia, North, Central and South Europe Should you wish to become a member of WACS through your
and the Pacific Region. In addition, special committees national association, please contact your association’s president,
oversee all WACS projects: The Culinary Competitions membership officer or the WACS Continental
Committee, the Education Committee and the Marketing Director of your area.
and Communications Committee.
Companies and culinary institutions that wish to become a
corporate, or extraordinary members are also eligible for
Mission Statement special membership with a recommendation from an existing
The World Association of Chefs Societies is a non-political WACS member.
professional organisation, dedicated to maintaining and
improving the culinary standards of global cuisines. We For more information please visit our website
accomplish these goals through education, training and www.wacs2000.org or www.worldchefs.org
professional development of our international membership.
As an authority and opinion leader of food, WACS
represents a global voice on all issues related to the
culinary profession.

06 www.worldschefs.org
THE ACADEMY OF HOTEL MANAGEMENT
AND CATERING INDUSTRY
ul. Nieszawska 19, 61-022 Poznan, Poland
tel. +48 61 87 11 530, fax. +48 61 87 11 533
wshig@wshig.poznan.pl, www.wshig.poznan.pl

230x300_reklama_krzywe.indd 1 2009-12-15 23:47:14


On the fast track with
Train-The -Trainer World Tour 2009
Proudly sponsored by Custom Culinary

WACS Train-the-Trainer works to support culinarians in


teaching positions. Thanks again to the generous support
of Custom Culinary®, expert chefs are traveling from
their homes to give of their time, talents and knowledge
to help educate other culinarians around the world. The
Train-the-Trainer Program’s mission is to plant the seeds
of knowledge today that will produce quality international
cuisine for years to come. After Portugal, Serbia, Myanmar,
Bahamas and New Zealand, it was now time for Chef
Sirkka Ruottinen from Finland to pay a visit to Guadalajara,
Mexico and Chef Madeleine Müller from Austria to visit
Singapore and At-Sunrice Global Chef Academy with her
host Kwan Lui to learn the intricacies of Asian cuisine and
impart some of her Austrian cuisine to Singapore instructors
and students.

Read more and download their recipes on www.


worldchefs.org. To register your association for the WACS
Train-The-Trainer Program contact Chef Baskette by
e-mail at chefbaskette@comcast.net.

wacs news
WACS Office opened in 2009
WACS opened its first continuity of WACS and bring Editor of Chefs and Champagne
permanent office earlier this year better service to its members «à la carte» (Gourmand World
at 52 Avenue Victor Hugo, 75116 and sponsors. WACS office is Cookbook Award 2007).
in Paris. Ragnar Fridriksson generously supported by the Education: MBA Bradford
is the new Office Manager. Icelandic Embassy in Paris with University, England. Master
The office lies in the heart office space and facilities. in higher studies related to
of Paris, just by the Champs Gastronomy from IHEGGAT,
Elysées. It was the will of WACS Name: Ragnar Fridriksson. France. Diploma in Hotel
President Gissur Gudmundsson Born: 1972 in Iceland. and Restaurant Management,
to provide WACS with the Residence: France since 2000. Norway. Hotel and Catering
means to grow and become Career: Owner and founder of School of Iceland.
a professional organisation Passionfood - Food and Wine
with future perspectives. The Communication, Publishing
permanent office will ensure the and Photography. Author and

08 www.worldchefs.org
New website
WACS website gets a new
Did you know?
look and published in
four languages
WACS was founded in Current president, Gissur
This new website is the place for members to showcase their 1928 and celebrates its 82 Gudmundsson is WACS’
association. Send us news and reports about your activities and year anniversary in 2010. youngest elected president.
achievements, with photos and videos in any of the four official
languages i.e. English, German, French and Spanish. You will First honorary president was Iceland is the smallest nation
also find all practical information about WACS, education Auguste ESCOFFIER. to have held the WACS
programs and competitions with this new and user friendly presidium, with population
version of the WACS website. WACS first World Congress of about 300.000.
was attended by 65 delegates
Visit our website www.worldchefs.org from 17 nations. WACS has about 60
volunteers from around the
Today, WACS counts more world who work on different
than 85 member nations. tasks and in committees.

WACS represents over WACS has held 33 biennial


10 million professional world congresses in more
chefs worldwide. than 20 locations.

The number of certified WACS 34th World Congress


Global Master Chefs will in 2010 will be held for the
surpass 500 in the year 2010. first time in Latin America.

The number of WACS WACS 35th World Congress


Approved Judges has reached in 2012 will be hosted by
150 during the year 2009. South Korea.

85
Member
Countries
8 Million
CHEF
Members

WACS Boutique Just One Sponsorship


Is Now Open Learn how your organization can partner with
We are pleased to announce the opening of the WACS The World Association Of Chefs Societies.
Boutique which now offers you an array of products such as Sponsor soon and your company can be Jeffrey Fanelli
the Official WACS Pins, T-shirts, magazines and gift wrapped, a part of prestigious and exciting culinary jeff@repositioninc.com
+1 860-434-0063 x10
custom-made Chef knives from F. Dick Knives. events around the world

Orders can be made by fax or email and credit cards are


accepted. Browse our product catalogue attached to the centre
of this magazine or download the updates on our website at
World Association
any time. Ask us for quantity discount rates and share with
your fellow members or co-workers.
of Chefs Societies

www.worldchefs.org 09
Culinary committee
Seminars for WACS
Approved Judges
The WACS Culinary Committee has developed and imple-
mented a judging seminar program that will be proposed in
all continents on a regular basis. The Judging Seminar will
from now on be obligatory for all future WACS Approved
Judges. The objective is to create international standards for
all “WACS Endorsed” culinary competitions. This is a major
breakthrough for competitors who now can look at the label
“WACS ENDORSED COMPETITION” as a guarantee for
transparency, objectivity and overall quality.

This international standard scheme is a step further for WACS


in its objectives to raise the standards of culinary competitions
as well as of global cuisines in general. Several dates have
already been set for upcoming judging seminars in 2010:
Dubai (February), Singapore (April), Sao Paolo (June), New
Zealand (June), Moscow (October), Luxembourg (November).
Updates and details can be found on the WACS official website
www.worldchefs.org.

wacs news
Global Master chef
Chef Certification – Going global
One of the major initiatives of WACS is an internationally
recognised Master Chef Certification. This is the highest
level of certification a chef can achieve in his/her career. The
Global Master Chefs Certification is open to all chefs who are
members of a WACS national chef association, who comply
with minimum requirements for age and experience and who
have passed the examination.

So far, there are five national associations qualified to issue the


exam. Those are Austria, Germany, Netherlands, Switzerland
and the USA. If you live far away from these countries, do not
despair. The program’s success is spreading fast and several
chef associations world wide are seriously looking at proposing
this option in their own country soon. Slovenia, Hungary and
South Africa have already started the process and there will be
more to follow.

Stay up to date on the WACS official Website www.worldchefs.org

10 www.worldchefs.org
women in wacs

Are We There Yet?


Text Susanne Metz

In the last 20 years, the number of women chefs has dramatically


increased. In the US, we now have a woman Iron Chef, professional
chefs who host their own TV shows and, overall, statistics say that 25
percent of food and beverage establishments are owned by women.
It was also reported that the number of male and female students
enrolled in culinary schools are equal. But while there is an explosion
of women’s pursuit of culinary arts, women have been slow to attain
higher certification levels (fewer than 5 percent of the Certified
Executive Chefs in the US are women) and seats on the boards of
their regional, national and international professional organisations.

This is not about voting women in based on their gender identity.


Although I would like to see a woman in the top political seat of the
United States, I would not vote for Sarah Palin just because she fits
the gender. I judge her based on her accomplishments, views and
agenda, not her sex. This is also not about a lack of opportunities for
women chefs.This is about the apparent and, these days, surprising
lack of their representation.

The questions that should be raised


at the roundtable include:
• Do we as national and global organizations do
enough to support and advance qualified women?
• How can we motivate and recruit qualified
women to actively shape our profession?
• What goals should Women in WACS
set for the next 2 years?
• Can we become a serious source of mentorship
and global networking for women chefs?

Two years ago, New York restaurateur, Keith McNally, sent a letter
to the editor addressing that the New York Times food critic had
disproportionately ignored restaurants with women chefs and, if he
evaluated them, had given them lower ratings than his predecessor
who wrote when fewer women chefs were on the scene. McNally
did not think that women chefs were discriminated against by Frank
Bruni. Just that the record of his reviews did not adequately reflect
their growing number and qualifications. Could his much debated
observation be applied to our organizations?

WACS World Congress Santiago Chile 2010


Roundtable Discussion with Susanne Metz, Special advisor for Women in WACS

Susanne is a graduate of The Culinary Institute of America and holds a Master of Arts degree from Vassar College. She is the author of Hering’s
Compendium of Food and Beverages and Administrative Manager of the Neue Galerie New York, a museum of German and Austrian art. In that
capacity, she oversees staff meals and prepares special luncheons and dinners for VIP guests to the Neue Galerie.

www.worldchefs.org 11
WACS Humanitarian work

It’s about lending


a helping hand
Myanmar – A disaster that turned
into a 5 million $ adventure
Most of the world heard that Myanmar was hit May 2nd and 3rd
of 2008 by a terrible cyclone. Thousands of people were killed and
thousands of families lost their homes. No one was prepared for the
consequences.

The Myanmar Chefs Association with Oliver E Soe Thet as a


president had a meeting the day after and started to plan out how
they could help in the matter. They contacted the WACS President
and their Continental Director and started to get in touch with
various aid organizations.

Within weeks, the Myanmar Chefs Association under the umbrella


of WACS, distributed food and materials to the most isolated parts of
the country.

Together with volunteer chefs, Oliver and his team were cooking
food for thousands of people every day in a camp, for people that are
As everyone knows, Chefs are people that are generous in nature. The
still today living in tents. Their job is not over but the example they
WACS Humanitarian Program is something that we keep close to
are setting is a guiding light to us all.
our heart. There are many ideas and a lot of willingness to try to help
in projects that all are urgent. With this program we aim to support
and assist chef associations in countries that are suddenly struck with
disaster. Other activities aim to help chef associations that are trying
to improve professional education in their country or to improve
food for kids in schools and help equip schools and canteens with
decent material. We have great ambitions and a lot of will to act,
but this demands organisation, financial resources and involvement
from our volunteers. Therefore we are always open to work with new
partners who share our goals and vision. Thankfully, we can count on
our huge network of chefs around the world to give a helping hand
whenever needed. The last two years have been especially rough for
many. Some extraordinary deeds have also been done that serve as
examples and encourage and inspire all to do more and ever more. The work is so great that
it is beyond our imagination
We, the board of WACS would like to thank all the great people that
have made these things happen. We are also asking anyone that has 9000 bags of rice, which is 2,25 million big
good ideas and wants to do more to contact us at WACS. portions of good nutrition.
www.worldchefs.org or send an email to office@worldchefs.org
470 traditional houses were built for 65,800 USD
Remember that many small things make up the big things.
240 tons of nutritious child food were transported into the
Hilmar B. Jonsson, far laying villages.
WACS Vice President
256 fishing boats worth 72,960 USD were handed out.

Over 5 tons of new clothes.

12 www.worldchefs.org
01 02

01 MCA with 9 Doctors on delta tour

02 good breakfast

03 Thank you singapore airlaine

04 three doctor team at work


03
05 Bringing nutrition up the delta

06 doctor heller at work

07 Oliver e soe thet, president of the


myanmar chefs association, together
with his helpers.

08 Village under water

04

05 06

07 08

www.worldchefs.org 13
International Chefs Day

What a difference
a day makes

Since 2004, each year on the 20th of October, members of


the WACS celebrate International Chefs Day. On this day,
chefs around the world celebrate their profession and take the
opportunity to, not only promote the organisation (WACS),
but also goodwill and friendship amongst each other, as well
as taking the time to help people who are less fortunate.

Chefs Associations around the world have mobilised their


forces with whatever means they have in order to either raise
money or give nutrition to those who do not know where they
will find their next meal. This has been a great initiative and we
hope to see it grow bigger with even more associations joining
us in this effort when we celebrate International Chefs Day on
October 20th 2010.

Focus on Food wastage


This year, WACS has made the decision to focus its attention
during International Chefs Day to raise awareness on Food
Waste and Food Safety.

Around 40 million people have fallen to poverty and hunger


in 2008 as a result of the sharp rise in food prices, and the total
Trimming Our Waste
Why We Waste Food and How We Can Improve
number of people suffering from hunger and malnutrition has
reached 963 million worldwide. On top of the food price crisis
While approximately one billion people around the
and oil price increases, the impact of the economic crisis will
world go hungry, global citizens waste a prodigious
worsen malnutrition and hunger levels (statistics from the Food
amount of food. This squandering—common in both
and Agriculture Organisation of the United Nations, December
industrialized and developing nations, for different
2008). Although the impact is worse in the developing
reasons—has profound environmental, economic and
countries, we all have started to feel this impact, not only in our
ethical consequences. At the same time, dramatically
professional kitchens but also at home. Never was there a better
reducing our food waste would not be too difficult if
time, to think more about the wastage of food.
we deemed it important. In my talk, I will illuminate
how restaurant kitchens and patrons contribute
to the problem. Waste often stems from inventory
mismanagement, overpreparation and excessive
portions.Yet, restaurants can be part of the solution,
both in reducing waste and raising awareness on the
effect of food waste.

Jonathan BLOOM is a Key speaker at WACS World Congress


Santiago Chile 2010. His book on the topic comes out in the
Fall of 2010.To learn more visit his blog:WastedFood.com.

14 www.worldchefs.org
International Chefs Day
around
the world
australia
In Australia, the Culinary Institute organised a Pink Breakfast or
morning tea to support the McGrath Foundation to fight breast cancer.

canada
In Canada, Chefs from the Escoffier Society of Toronto cooked up
thousands of culinary treats featuring local ingredients, with all
proceeds donated to Second Harvest, a charity that provides fresh
food to approximately 250 social service programs in the Greater
Toronto Area.

Czech Republic
The Czech Republic Chef Association received 13,000 visitors in
the old town square in Prague where they were joined by Mrs. Livia
Klausova, first lady of the Czech Republic. The chefs raised 100,000
Czech Crowns for the president couple Livia and Vaclav Klaus’ Start
to Life foundation for Children homes.

Iceland
The Icelandic Chef Association organised a lunch and media
attention for the patients and staff at Grensásdeild, a rehabilitation
center for spinal cord injury patients.

Myanmar
In Myanmar, the Chefs distributed three more 40-foot humanitarian
aid containers for the victims of Cyclone Nargis in Myanmar (May
2008). MCA arranged different locations at Delta & Upper Myanmar
with different MCA Chefs Teams at that day. They distributed over
100,000 portions of high nutrition wheat porridge child food to
different orphanages in the delta. At the same time, they provided
around 200 free of charge medical operations to needing children
and collected 1 million USD worth of medication and OP utensils.

To seal a good day, they delivered over 70 fishing boats and freed
10,000 live fish into the delta rivers. We send out special thanks to
Mr. Frank Franke & Mrs. Maie Luise Thuene of LOG – German
as well as to Dr. Med Werner & Mallu Heller, for their immense
contributions.

Philippines
The Chefs in the Philippines organised a dinner and raised P 50,000
for the LTB Culinary Scholarship Program.

Singapore
In Singapore, the chefs celebrated with a full day of activities,
including a cooking class for low income families. In the evening the
Singapore National Culinary team cooked up a gala dinner to raise
funds for the ChildAid charity project.

www.worldchefs.org 15
For the first time in its 80 years of history, the WACS World Congress will take
place in Latin America. The Chilean chefs are pulling strings together to make this
an event we will never forget. Chile is the place where chefs will meet to learn, to
share, and to discuss the future of the culinary industry.

We have put together a rich program with key speakers, fun activities and
unforgettable life experiences. Not to forget the Global Chefs Challenge final and
Junior Chefs Challenge, where meriting chefs from every continent will test their
talents and surpass themselves. Also, the Bill Gallagher Junior Chef Forum will be
as exciting as ever, with hands-on workshops where young future chefs will get the
unique opportunity to be guided by some of the best in the business.

Chile is the Place


Dear delegates,

We are honoured to be the first Latin American country chosen to host a WACS
Congress and we look forward to have you in Chile. Having the best chefs of the
world experiencing our incredible landscape, our culture and its flavors, is a very good
opportunity to reveal the excellent quality of our food products and wines.

This congress is also a recognition to the vibrant community of Chilean chefs, who
have been innovating constantly and contributing to promote the incredible variety
and versatility of our products and ingredients, from both land and sea. 2010 is the year
of the bicentennial of our Independence and therefore a time of celebration. What
a better way to start this relevant year with a congress convoking chefs and cuisine,
key elements in any celebration. We are certain that after the WACS congress and
your culinary experience here, we will count on you as gastronomic ambassadors,
promoting Chile and its first class food products. Whishing all of you a successful
meeting and a pleasant stay in our country, I invite you to learn more about our
country in www.thisischile.cl

Juan Gabriel Valdés


Executive Director
Fundación Imagen de Chile

16 www.worldchefs.org
chile 2010 – wHATS ON IN CHILE

wacs world congress 2010


Highlights
Global Chefs Challenge Final

Hans Bueschkens Junior Chefs Challenge

Bill Gallagher Junior Chefs Forum

Exclusive KeyNote Speakers and


presentations Hans Bueschkens
Open discussion about future
vision for WACS
Junior Chefs
Voting for Continental Directors
Challenge
Named in honour of former WACS President, Hans Bueschkens
Voting for 2014 congress host country
whose vision was to embrace and encourage young chefs of the
Hands-on Workshops for juniors world to challenge themselves to learn and develop their talents as
practitioners of the culinary arts.
Wine marathon
It has been a career trampoline for many young chefs, notably
Continental Directors cook-off, for Simon Hulstone from England who won the first ever Hans
Bueschkens competition that took place in South Africa in 1997.
Discover Chilean food, wine and produce Simon Hulstone is today the chef/owner of Michelin star restaurant
The Elephant in Torquay, England. He will also be representing the
Daily guided tours for spouses
UK in the famous Bocuse d’Or for the second time in 2010.
Gala dinner at the famous Palacio Cousin
This 6th edition of the competition, will see 16 ambitious young chefs
from all over the world, competing and surpassing themselves. We can
only wish them the same rich career as those who came before them.

Bill Gallagher
Junior Chefs Forum
2010 sees the continuation of a great event: The Dr. Bill Gallagher
Junior Chefs Forum. Over the years that Dr. Gallagher has been
spearheading this initiative, the program has grown from strength
to strength. In Santiago Chile in 2010 the program has been
enhanced with a diverse mix of networking opportunities, fun and
hands on experiences.

The program in 2010 will focus on modern industry trends


but also will introduce you to the past practices of the kitchen
that, unfortunately in this day and age of cost management, are
slowly slipping into the memories of Chefs. Together with a fun
interactive cooking competition, the 2010 program promises to
leave with you great memories.

18 www.worldchefs.org
chile 2010 – wacs world congress 2010

Key note speakers

William Bincoletto Charles Carroll Jonathan BLOOM Dr. Jim Peacock

William Bincoletto Jonathan BLOOM


Sommelier & Wine Educator American food journalist

The Joy of Pairing: Evolution Trimming Our Waste: Why We Waste


and Revolution. Food and How We Can Improve
“We are creatures of habit usually thinking the same way, usually enjoying “Find out what you can do to reduce waste in your kitchen,
the same foods, usually buying the same wines. However remember, there is for your finances, our planet’s future and to possibly feed the hungry.”
lots more room to maneuver and experiment outside the box than inside.”
Jonathan Bloom is an American food journalist who focuses on food
William Bincoletto has over 30 years of experience as a wine waste. His book on the topic comes out in the Fall of 2010 and he is
educator. He is a sommelier with advanced training in wine making the creator of the blog WastedFood.com, which he started in 2006.
and a member of the wine academies of France, Germany and Italy. Since 2001, Bloom has written about food for publications ranging
He is an international wine judge and a respected wine writer. from The New York Times to BioCycle. He received a master’s degree
in journalism at the University of North Carolina at Chapel Hill.

Charles Carroll
C.E.C., A.A.C. Premier Expert in Leadership & Team-building Dr. Jim Peacock
Molecular biologist
Where Am I Going, What Am I Doing,
And How Am I Going to Get There? facts, beliefs & misconceptions
“Take this opportunity to come together to the world stage of WACS “I regard Chefs as extraordinarily skilled, and often gifted, people who are
and be hungry for success. Let me help you reach your individual goals and able to create marvellous dishes from the foods that are available. I also
grow into positions of influence and leadership. Learn what it takes to be great.” know that some Chefs around the world are very concerned about using
any foods for their dishes that have in someway been produced by the new
Chef Carroll is most recognized in the culinary field today for his GM plant breeding. I hope to shed a light on these issues and answer some
passion of building great culinary teams. His work with seven United of the concerns that are raised”
States Culinary Olympic Teams and his leadership as Executive
Chef at three prestigious properties over the past twenty-plus Dr. Peacock is an award winning molecular biologist and
years, proves his Commitment to Excellence in the Culinary Field. fervent science advocate. He is recognised internationally as an
Leadership and Team Building is the most talked about subject eminent researcher in the field of plant molecular biology and its
among CEO’s, General Managers and Executives today. applications in agriculture.

www.worldchefs.org 19
chile 2010 – global chef challenge

Global Chefs
Challenge living
up to its name
01 Chef Toines Smulders
Of The Netherlands is The
Inaugural WACS Global
Chef Champion dubai 2008 Juraj Kalna
Regional winner Middle East and Africa

Age 30
Present position Executive Chef at The Edge
Dining and Lounge
Town/country Dubai/United Arab Emirates

Past positions
1. Executive Sous Chef - Jumeirah Emirates
01 After 2 years of competitions with Towers Hotel Dubai
more than 600 local selections,
2. Head Chef - Rib Room Steakhouse Jumeirah
42 national championships and 7
Emirates Towers Dubai
continental finals, it has come down to
7 young chefs to dispute the bi-annual 3. Sous Chef - JW Marriott Hotel Dubai
Global Chefs Challenge title. 4. Chef de Partie – JW Steakhouse Dubai
5. Chef in charge of the fine dining Restaurant
This second edition of Global Chefs Past trophies
Challenge has truly lived up to its name, 2009 - 1 gold and 1 silver medal in Asia’s 1st
with candidates from 42 nationalities Culinary Cup Competition in Bangkok
coming from all continents participating 2009 - Gold medal and winner of the Middle East
in this global event. In the end, there can and Africa continental semifinals of Global Chefs
be only one candidate on the highest
Challenge in Johannesburg
march of the podium. But we can
2008 - Winner of the overall Chef of the Year
agree that they are all winners and that
they represent the true values of our Salon Culinaire in Dubai with 4-gold and
profession. 1-silver medal
Graduate from SOU Obchodne na Pantoch
Bratislava in Slovakia
Graduation year 1997
Favourite dish Fried breaded cheese and ham
with tartar sauce. Classic Slovak dish.
Favourite fruit Lemon
Favourite restaurant Arzak, San Sebastian- Spain
Other passion when not cooking My family,
fishing, movies, spending time on the beach
Email juraj.kalna@hotmail.com

Assistant Heru
Age 24
Present position Commis 1 at Raffles Hotel
Town/country Dubai/United Arab Emirates

20 www.worldchefs.org
chile 2010 – global chef challenge

Chris Thomson I Wayan Wicaya Wim Klerks


Regional winner Americas Regional winner Asia Regional winner Europe Central

Age 35 Age 36 Age 39


Present position Present position Present position
Executive Sous Chef Sous Chef/Bulgari Hotels and Resorts Chef, restaurant Les Jumeaux
Town/country Banff/Alberta, Canada Town/country Bali/Indonesia Town/country Bennebroek/Netherlands

Past positions Past positions Past positions


1. Sous Chef - The Delta Lodge at Kananaskis 1. Sous Chef/JAS In-flight Catering, Bali 1. Junior Sous Chef, Amstelhotel, Restaurant
2. Sous Chef - The Rimrock Resort 2. Chef de Partie/The Balé Luxury Resort, Bali La Rive, Amsterdam
3. Chef De Partie- The Banff Park Lodge 3. Sous Chef/Ku de Ta Restaurant, Bali 2. Chef kok, restaurant de Jonge Geleerde Man,
4. Kitchen Practicum- Hotel Europa, Champfer- Florida, USA Bennebroek
St Moritz, Switzerland 5. Second Cook/Bali Inter-Continental Resort 3. Chef kok, Restaurant Les Jumeaux, Bennebroek
5. 2nd Cook - The Delta Bow Valley 6. Commis/Grand Hyatt, Bali Past trophies
6. Apprentice - The Rimrock Resort Past trophies 2006 - 1st place in Salon Culinaire a la minute and
Past trophies 2008 - Gold Medal/Global Chefs Challenge Salon Culinaire Acette klasse in Leeuwarden.
2009 - Global Chefs Challenge Semi Final Hong Kong. 2007 - Gold and Silver International Kremlin
Winner Americas 2008 - Gold Medal/Bali Salon Culinaire. Culinary Cup in Moskow.
2009 - Canadian Chefs Challenge Winner 2004 - Silver Medal/Bali Salon Culinaire. 2008 - 1st place Netherlands Bocuse d’Or.
2008 - Gold Medal IKA Culinary Olympics Graduate from 2008 - Bocuse d’Or Final, 7th place Europes
2006 - Gold Medal ExpoGast, Luxemburg BPLP ( The Bali Hotel and Tourism Training Finale Bocuse d’Or in Stavanger, Norway.
Graduate from Institute) Middle Level Program in Food Graduate from
Malaspina University/ SAIT Apprentice training Production Department KTS Voorhout in Netherlands
Graduation year 1997 Graduation year 1992 Graduation year 1989
Favourite dish Favourite dish Favourite dish
Unagi (Japanese BBQ eel) Braised Noodle with spicy roasted Duck Dishes with shellfish
Favourite fruit Favourite fruit Favourite fruit
All Fruit Jackfruit Strawberry from our own kitchen garden
Favourite restaurant Favourite restaurant Favourite restaurant
Other passion when not cooking Sarong Restaurant at Kuta Bali De Librije in Zwolle in the Netherlands
Biking, Skiing, Wood work, my family Other passion when not cooking Other passion when not cooking
Email chris_thomson@banffcentre.ca Reading, gardening, badminton, footsal Skating and fishing
Email wwicaya@yahoo.com Email wimklerks@hetnet.nl

Assistant Myles Fedun Assistant Alexander Tanuhardja Assistant Ronald Bellaart


Age 18 Age 23 Age 22
Present position Jack’s Grill Present position Commis at Bulgari Present position Student at Restaurant
in Edmonton Hotel&Resort Kasteel Heemstede
Town/country Edmonton/Alberta, Canada Town/country Bali/Indonesia Town/country Houten/Netherlands

www.worldchefs.org 21
chile 2010 – global chef challenge

Carlos Manuel Alves Ross howell Ronny Kolvik


Gonçalves Regional winner Pacific Rim Regional winner North Europe
Regional winner South Europe

Age 26 Age 47 Age 26


Present position Sous-Chef Executive in Real Present position Executive Chef at Royal on the Present position Head Chef at Palace Grill
Villa Italia Hotel & Spa Park Hotel Town/country Oslo/Norway
Town/country Lisbon/Portugal Town/country Mount Tamborine/Astralia

Past position Past positions Past positions


1. Sous Chef, Bica do Sapato Restaurant 1. Chef owner of Ross Howel Catering for 7 years 1. Haga Restaurant, Sous Chef
in Lisbon 2. Chef owner of Dish Restaurant&Bar for 6 years 2. Pascal, Sous Chef
2. Chef de Partie, Ritz Four Seasons Hotel 3. Executive Chef at Grand Orbit for 2 years Past trophies
in Lisbon 4. Chef owner of Pippin Took Restaurant for 10 years 2009 - 1st Place Global Chefs Challenge, Dublin
3. Chef de Partie in Four Seasons Terre Past trophies 2008 - 1st Place with the Norwegian Culinary
Blanche Provence 2009 - Winner Pacific Rim semi-final – Global Team at the Olympics in Erfurt
Past trophies Chefs Challenge 2006 - 3 rd. Place Linie awards
2009 - Winner of semi-final Global Chefs 2001 - Tasting Australia – National Hot Cookery Graduate from Ørskog Culinary School
Challenge South Europe Competition – bronze Graduation year 2000
2008 - 1 silver medal and 3 bronze medals 1999 - Selected to represent Australia in Bocuse Favourite dish Ball (Norwegian “dumpling” dish”)
in IKA Culinary Olympics, Senior Team D’Or World Cuisine Favourite fruit Oranges
2007 - 3rd place in Slovenia, Semi-final Global 1997 - Selected to represent Australia in Bocuse Favourite restaurant Regis Marcon, France
Chefs Challenges South Europe D’Or World Cuisine Other passion when not cooking Soccer, movies,
2007 - 2 silver medals Mediterranean Challenge 1996 - The Australian Gold Plate Award fishing
in Cyprus, Senior Team – Grand Orbit Email rkolvik@broadpark.no
Graduate from Estoril Tourism and Hotel 1995 - Queensland Chef of Chefs
Professional School (Kitchen and Pastry) 3 years Favourite dish Cassoulet
Graduation year 2001 Favourite fruit Banana
Favourite dish Risotto Favourite restaurant The Brasserie
Favourite fruit Cherries by Philippe Mouchel
Favourite restaurant Botin in Madrid Other passion when not cooking Football and
Other passion when not cooking gardening
Paintball, swimming, dancing, volleyball Email catering@bigpond.net.au
Email carlosmoita88@hotmail.com

Assistant Celso Duarte Padeiro Assistant Halvsr Ellingsen


Age 20 Age 23
Present position Sous-chef partie in Real Villa Present position Chef/Kulinarisk Akademi
Italia Hotel & Spa Town/country Oslo/Norway
Town/country Lisbon/Portugal

22 www.worldchefs.org
chile 2010

Latin American Food


Continent Full of Flavours

To speak of Latin American and Spanish influences, but in this latitude. Traveling by car
flavours, first we have to look we have many other products from Santiago to Cordova, you
at our resources; the potato, the and other influences like the can see many Hereford cattle
ear of corn, the strawberries, the Chinese, and the Japanese. eating grass in these plains.
cacao, the tomato, the tobacco, For example we have the mix They don´t have to walk to get
the avocado, the sugar cane, the between Peruvian and Japanese their food, they only have to
chilies, the allspice, the vanilla, cuisine called NIKEI, and the move a little, which explains
the sunflower, the sweet potato, mix between Peruvian and the tenderness of their meat. In
the beans, the peanuts, the Chinese called CHIFA. Both these countries, including Chile,
quinoa, the pumpkin and the are extraordinary, and both use the diet is based on wheat and
coconut, only to name a few. many products and techniques its products. Moving more to the
Then, you can begin to imagine from the east and west. In all the North, the diet changes to corn,
all the flavours and the different Pacific coast from the North (San and its products. Also near the
dishes you can create from Francisco) to the South (Chile), Caribbean, we can find dishes
mixing these particular elements you can find an expression of with fruits, like banana, and
with many others. good Chinese food. papaya. They also have seafood ALAN PETER KALLENS GAZITÚA
but not so flavourful because Executive Chef
From Mexico to Chile, you can The potato is a particular of the temperature of the water Hotel NH City
Santiago
find incredible preparations element in the Latin American which is warm in the Caribbean,
from the coast to the mountains. food. From fries to purée, this but moving to the South this
In Mexico are dishes like was the base of the diet in many changes a lot. When speaking
“tamales” (corn husk stuffed countries after the second world of seafood and fish, we have
with corn puree and chicken) war. Orginally, potatoes were to say that, in Chile we have
this preparation goes down given to the pigs, but when extraordinary flavours in them.
to Chile, but without chicken there was nothing else to eat, we
and it is called a “humita”. This learned to love this tuber. Now You can try Chilean oysters,
example is amazing because, we can prepare a lot of dishes and you feel like you have been
there are around 14,000 km of with this lovely piece of heaven. born again. You can sear an
coast where the corn is harvested Many stews in Latin American Ecuadorean yellow tail tuna
and cooked in a similar way. food use potato because it fish, and forget about the others’
gives the perfect consistency, fishes, or you can try a Peruvian
The spicing of many it’s cheap, and it can be used sea bass perfectly cooked and
preparations with chilies is throughout the year. never want to have meat again.
becoming more accepted by You can try a barbecue with “When speaking of
the tourists. In the Caribbean In Chile a stew called Ecuadorean shrimps hand seafood and fish, we
and on the Pacific coast, what is “CHARQUICAN” is prepared, size and never want to have
really surprising is that there are with potato, pumpkin, corn, lobster anymore. Or have an have to say that, in Chile
more than 40 varieties of chilies. peas, green beans, and dry horse unforgettable Peruvian sea bass we have extra-ordinary
meat or “charqui”, which gave “cebiche” and never want to try flavours in them. You can
On the Atlantic South American it its name. It is a really special any other cebiche around the
try Chilean oysters, and
border, in countries like summer dish, because all the world, except in Chile.
Uruguay and Argentina, the women and men that worked you feel like you have
food came from the mixing of harvesting vegetables and fruits My favourite flavour from been born again.”
different cultures, like Italian, brought some ingredients and Latin America is the Peruvian
German and Spanish. This is cooked all in a big pot and then, one where you can find many
why their flavours are similar they shared this magnificent different preparations, seafood,
to those of Europe. They dish with their families. cebiche, ají de gallina (Peru’s
have developed many Italian version of cacciatore), seco de
restaurants and they also show On the other side of the cordero, causa (braised stuffed
us their love for good barbecue Cordillera Mountains, lamb au jus), pulpo a la parrilla
meats. But in the Pacific coast, Argentina, Uruguay, Paraguay (grilled octopus), shrimps, tuna
we also have the Italian, German and Brasil, have the best meat and a lot of wonderful products.

www.worldchefs.org 23
4 recetas from chile
Que aproveche ...
Beef Fillet a lo pobre until golden. Place the salmon in the oven to finish off and
(Serves 4) cook until medium.

25 oz. of beef fillet cut into medallions 02 To make the pil pil sauce, heat half of the olive oil
4 potatoes and add the chopped cacho de cabra chilli, the abalone
8 seed potatoes and shrimps and the garlic, soften with the abalone stock
3 or 4 chilote potatoes and add in the spring onion and parsley. Stir in
4 quail eggs the remaining olive oil.
1 onion
03 Finally, sauté the celery for one minute, then add the
01 Peel and chop the traditional style potatoes into sticks, watercress and lemon zest.
fry them and put them to aside.
04 To serve, place the salmon fillet in the centre of the plate
02 Cut the seed potatoes into round shapes and fry them. and cover it with the abalone and shrimp pil-pil. Finally, place
the watercress in lemon on top of the salmon.
03 Slice the chilote potatoes into slim chips and fry them.

04 Cut the onion into julienne strips and fry until the strips Lamb with dried Mushroom
are golden and well-cooked. Sauce and mashed Potatoes
with Chicharrones
05 Sear the medallions of beef on a grill or in a frying pan (Serves 5)
for three minutes each side.
2 lb 3 oz. lamb fillet
06 At the last moment, fry the quail eggs. 16 lamb ribs
2lb 3 oz potatoes
07 On each plate put a small portion of the fried chips. 1/2 cup butter
Arrange the onion on top of them, then the meat and finally 3/4 cup milk
the fried egg 1/2 cup cream
1/4 cup lamb fat
3.5 oz. squares of lamb fat
Golden Salmon with Pacific
Seaweed and Pil Pil of 01 Clean the meat and separate the lamb ribs.
Abalone and Sea Shrimps
cooked with Cacho de Cabra 02 Peel the potatoes, boil until soft, then mash them. In a
chilli pepper separate saucepan, heat the cream, butter and lamb fat. Next
(Serves 4) add the liquid ingredients (wine and milk) until the desired
consistency is reached, then season. Fry the squares of fat to
6 salmon fillets, each weighing around 5.6 oz. make crispy chicharrones. Add to the mix.
3.5 oz. olive oil
0.3 fl. oz. lemon juice 03 For the sauce, fry the lamb bones and onion until they
1.4 oz. mixed dried seaweed (cochayuyo and luche) are golden and the onions transparent. Next add enough
2 cloves of garlic, very finely chopped wine and cold water to cover them. Simmer over a low heat
1/4 of a cacho de cabra chilli pepper, cut into rings until the liquid has reduced by half. Strain and put into a
6.3 oz. cooked, cubed abalone different saucepan, adding the dried mushrooms and a cup
4.2 oz. sea shrimps of cold water. Boil until there are two cups of sauce. Blend
1.4 fl. oz. of the stock in which the abalone were cooked the mushrooms and the liquid, adjust the seasoning and add a
1.7 oz. celery, cut into julienne strips pinch of sugar if the sauce is a little bitter.
5 oz. hydroponic watercress
0.7 oz. lemon zest, cut into strips 04 Heat a frying pan and fry the seasoned lamb for four
Diced spring onion and parsley minutes on each side.
Salt and pepper
05 Assemble the dish by putting a little mash in the centre
01 Season the salmon with salt, pepper and lemon juice. of the plate, together with the lamb and the sauce. Decorate
Spread one side with the seaweed mixture and sear this size with rocket or watercress.

24 www.worldchefs.org
with Chicharrones
Custard Apple and
pisco clery
(Serves 6)

For the custard apple clery


2lb 3 oz custard apples
1.35 fl. oz. oak-aged pisco
10 fl. oz. Moscatel wine
1.4 oz. icing sugar
1.7 oz. orange or mandarin segments
10 mint leaves cut into strips 01

For the orange cream
Zest of 1 1/1 oranges
2 1/2 eggs
The yolks of 2 eggs
7.7 oz. granulated sugar
13.5 fl. oz. orange juice
0.4 oz. powdered milk
3 oz. unsalted butter
3 leaves of re-hydrated gelatine
3.5 oz. (100 g.) whipped fresh cream

Serve with
6 fresh strawberries 02
6 rosettes of whipped cream
Fresh mint leaves to decorate

01 To make the clery, wash, peel and seed the custard


apples. Add the sugar, pisco, wine, orange segments
and chopped mint and refrigerate for 30 minutes.

02 To make the orange cream, blanch the orange zest,


putting it in cold water and heating to boiling point.
Drain, cool and put the blanched zest aside.
01 Beef Fillet a
03 Put the orange juice into a saucepan and, reduce by lo pobre
half, skimming the foam from the surface constantly. 02 Golden
Drain, cool and reserve. 03
Salmon with
Pacific
Seaweed and Pil
04 Mix together the eggs, yolks, sugar, orange Pil of Abalone
reduction and powdered milk. Dissolve and put all the and Sea Shrimps
ingredients into a saucepan and simmer over a low cooked with
Cacho de Cabra
heat, stirring constantly until a custard forms. chilli pepper

05 Add in the butter, the gelatine and orange zest.


03 Lamb
with dried
Allow to cool and fold in the whipped cream. Mushroom
Sauce and
mashed
06 To assemble, put some custard apple clery in a Potatoes with
glass, then use a smooth nozzle in a piping bag to pipe Chicharrones
some orange cream on top of the clery. Create a fan 04Custard
shape with the strawberry slices, decorate with whipped 04 Apple and
cream and fresh mint. pisco clery

www.worldchefs.org 25
chile 2010 – wacs world congress 2010

Santiago
Gastronomic poles
Along with the excellent infrastructure and connectivity as a
business capital, Santiago has the flavourful added value of its
diverse and modern atmosphere.

CREOLE CUISINE
The colorful Central Market comes alive with aromas of fresh fruit and
vegetables. There is abundant fish and seafood along with the noisy
activity as the visitors come not only to eat but to buy as well. With the
rhythm of guitars and songs, the market and its Creole cooking should
not be missed, with its seafood soups, stews, and fish.

CROSSING THE RIVER


Bellavista has a spirit of its own with theaters, bars, and small hotels,
and it displays an abundant offer for lunch, dinner, and for wandering
around among the hundreds of alternatives. Modern well-designed
restaurants blend perfectly with owner-run kitchens and traditional
spots in the barrio. Excellent wine for drinking and buying along with
arts and crafts and gifts in beautiful and safe shopping centers.

IN THE HIGH PART OF THE CITY


The Borderio complex, a gastronomical walkway that extends along
the Mapocho River in the upper part of the city, adds a series of fine
restaurants to Santiago. The avenue Nueva Costanera is populated
with elegant grills, “mestizo” cuisines, and a cosmopolitan proposal of
stylish sites where eating will be an international experience.

26 www.worldchefs.org
chile 2010 – wacs world congress 2010

a city of history
good dining & salsa
WHERE TO STAY
Hotel del Patio
(Pio Nono 61; 56-2-732-7571; www.hoteldelpatio.cl),
A creaky 1920s mansion redone with stripped-down adobe
walls and modernistic furniture, overlooks the newly
developed Patio market square in Bellavista. Doubles with
breakfast start at $120.

WHERE TO EAT AND DRINK


Marco Polo Café
(Calle Plaza de Armas 416; 56-2-671-8484)
Sells a pisco sour for 1,500 pesos.

Astrid and Gastón


(Antonio Bellet 201; 56-2-650-9125; www.astridygaston.com),
Dinner for two with wine is around 115,000 pesos.

WHAT TO DO AND SEE


The Nobel Prize-winning poet Pablo Neruda might have
considered himself a Stalinist firebrand, but he certainly knew
how to have fun, as evidenced in his marvelously eccentric
home La Chascona (Fernando Marquez de La Plata 192; 56-
2-737-8712; www.fundacionneruda.org). Call in advance for
an English tour (with entry, 3,500 pesos) of this panoramic
compound clinging to the slope of San Cristóbal mountain,
where the poet lived, loved and conspired with his fiery third
wife, Matilde Urrutia. Neruda’s meandering home was built to
resemble both a ship and a lighthouse incorporating a secret
passageway behind his dinner table to escape dull guests.

The former Royal Customs House next to Plaza de Armas


houses the small but outstanding Museum of Pre-Columbian
Art (Bandera 361; 56-2-688-7348; www.precolobino.cl; entry
3,000 pesos, free on Sunday).

Touristy crafts stalls are as ubiquitous in Santiago as hot


dog stands are in New York, but more substantial one-of-a-
kind treasures can be found at the antiquarian mall at 2348
Providencia, on one of the city’s grandest avenues. The two
dozen antiques stores lining this modern atrium sell everything
from pre-Columbian art to Catholic altarpieces. Two particularly
interesting stores are Silvia Obilinovic (Stall 2; 56-2-231-
7006), brimming with ancient figures of Andean gods and
Mesoamerican jewelry, and Bruce (Stall 17; 56-2-234-3732),
a virtual pirate’s cave of antique South American silverware.

www.worldchefs.org 27
Desert
in all directions

28 www.worldchefs.org
The desert sun slows down your rhythm and you naturally get back in
touch with yourself. This is why the culture of the sun has always existed
in the desert. We invite you to enjoy a trip to discover its immensity.

To “disconnect” in the middle of the desert is easy. Its immensity, its called Blanco, which has a minimalist menu and opens only at
colors, and the air help. The arid landscape obliges you to live with dinnertime. El Adobe and La Estaka, are the most representative of
a different rhythm. To be surrounded by desert in all directions. In the town. There are many restaurants, such as El Ckunna, defined as
just a short time you can leave your watch aside and lose track of Andean fusion, and which emphasize cooking with local products
time as the days go by. The scenery surpasses everything, especially incorporating them abundantly in their menus.
the sky. An intensely blue sky where the sun shines mercilessly.
Magnificent. All encompassing. In its maximum expression. But what is becoming a great alternative to the local restaurants, is
Inclement but protective. The desert sun slows down your rhythm the cuisine in hotels such as the Awasi, Altiplánico, Explora, Tierra
and you naturally get back in touch with yourself. This is why the Atacama, Terrantai, among others, which seek a balance between
culture of the sun has always existed in the desert. the traditional and light dishes that any guest might order as well as
a menu based on local products. You can try intensely flavorful and
The Atacameños, one of the native peoples of the northern Chilean smooth texture dishes such as the spectacular mango parfait which
desert, developed a culture rich in architecture as well as crafts. concentrates all the exuberance of the north, or a goat’s cheese from
Vestiges of this civilization have been found in the over 3,000 year old Guatín with tomato and basil, plus a fine dish of bitter olives from
Quitor and Tulor ruins, where you can get a glimpse of the ancient Pica or a magnificent salad of greens brought in from Sequitor. You
ways of life. In Atacama, the desert brings out the archeologist that all can try the pataska, the potato from
adventurers have inside of them. Then there is San Pedro, an ancient
oasis, which has become one of the favorite spots of world travelers. Socaire, or fava beans from Río Grande. All accompanied by wonderful
In the Padre Le Paige Archeological Museum valuable pieces ranging Tabalí wines from the Limarí Valley. And while you talk in front of the
from ancient objects to mummies are safeguarded, displaying the chimney drinking Illy coffee, whisky, or a comforting altiplanic Rica-
ancestral Atacameña culture, becoming one of the panoramas in San Rica herb tea, it is a good time to plan the next day’s excursion
Pedro de Atacama that you cannot miss.
NATURE ADVENTURE
NOBLE LODGING To go to San Pedro and not go on at least a couple of excursions
San Pedro de Atacama has been an oasis for thousands of years is like going to Paris and not visiting the Eiffel Tower. You can go
where nomads stopped in search of vital water, food, shelter, and rest on walks, bicycle trips, horseback rides, or longer side trips which
before continuing their journey. A modern traveler can do the same. can even include lunch or views of the sunrise or sunset according
Yes, because San Pedro de Atacama is known for its international to your preference and mood. Nature adventure has magnificent
character, but the truth is, just like Cuzco in Peru; Fez in Morocco, destinations in San Pedro de Atacama and its surroundings: the Valle
or Potosí in Bolivia these centers of good living always have two de la Luna (Moon Valley); Valle de la Muerte (Death Valley); the
faces: both happy and reflective. The scenery certainly influences Cordillera de la Sal (Salt mountain range), the Tatio Geysers, at 4,300
both aspects. In San Pedro, on a quiet street of these ancient salt meters above sea level, merge with the presence of unique flora and
flats, surrounded by a historic wall which has sheltered herders and fauna. Once again, the explorer can marvel at the zone’s archeological
shepherds for centuries, visionary businesspeople built lodges out of past along with the natural beauty of Chile’s unique northern
stone, wood, and adobe, in which they have continued with the noble Atacama desert.
task of providing shelter to those travelers that decide to live the
unforgettable experience of the Atacama Desert. HIGHLIGHTS
The climate in the desert is variable. The strong sun, the high altitude,
LOCAL FLAVOR and the thin air produce a thirst which is difficult to quench. So a
On the street, Caracoles, there are more than twenty alternatives glass of fresh water, natural juice, or lemonade (with limes from Pica,
of restaurants, one right next to another, including the newest, of course) is always welcome!

www.worldchefs.org 29
Valparaíso
World Heritage Port

30 www.worldchefs.org
The port city, Valparaíso, is for having a good time and that can be seen
on every corner. Along with the traditional barrios for which it was
declared world heritage, new proposals are being added that speak of
new standards of service, food, and entertainment.

The clock in Valparaíso runs differently. No one looks at you On another hillside and near the old Jail is Hotel Ultramar, up to
strangely if you show up for breakfast at 2 pm or if your first drink par with modern standards, with the façade of an old turn–of–the-
is at noon. It could be said that “everything goes” or simply that century warehouse, but once you cross the threshold, you enter
everyone is free to act the way they want, and along with this attitude, a modern and impeccable ambience. Personalized, fine, and care
there is the curious architecture on the hillsides which entices you to for details are the concepts that best define it, providing a renewed
follow the labyrinths. feeling for port hotels. This is a mandatory site for actors and the
most refined international visitors.
The results are entertaining. You can find places for eating, drinking
tea, or going for a drink and ending up dancing. There are the classic There are two restaurants you cannot miss: Pasta e Vino, on Cerro
options with the port stamp in their blood and the newer European Concepción is to be applauded and will surely be commented on
type options, inviting you to relax, with simplicity and improved after leaving the port. New century Italy in all its glory and majesty,
quality. The good thing is that nothing is exclusive and everything Pasta e Vino stands out for its innovative pastas, simple and delicious
complements the port style. The idea of getting to know this “world” sauces, and delicate décorations. It is charming and creative. The
only 120 kilometers from Santiago is an attractive panorama. other restaurant is Apollo 77 on Cerro Alegre. Beautiful with a well
achieved seafood menu, ideal for going out with a group.
When the clock strikes six on Friday afternoon, the tapes that
inaugurate the weekend are cut, and people give themselves
permission to have fun after a hard working week. Valparaíso is still
tranquil in the downtown you will find the café restaurant Marco
Polo, with just what you need for charging up your batteries. To go
into this place means to sit in front of a dish of incredible ñoquis or
raviolis, without worrying about time because everything is freshly
made. The same is true for the sandwiches which are unforgettable
here. A good choice for the evening.

Regarding the new charms on the hillsides of Cerro Concepción,


there is a small nicely decorated spot that most locals know about. El
Color Café is the closest thing to a Barcelonean restaurant that can
be found in Valparaíso. It is small and ideal for drinking tea (there
are more than 40 varieties), or eating a vegetarian platter, or having
lunch with home-style food and good background music chosen by
its owners. It is a charming relaxed and mandatory stopping place for
foreigners who wander around the port.

Sometimes, time flies. When you go out on the town there are
always two options: you can choose to sleep under a roof or wander
around all night long. The good thing is that in Valparaiso both
choices are viable. For sleeping there are two small hotels which do
honor and glory to the new style of the city. On Cerro Alegre is the
big old Thomas Somerscales house turned into a hotel and restored
with touches that remind you of this British painter’s marine world.
It has good and varied rooms with enchanting natural lighting and
privileged views.

www.worldchefs.org 31
Colchagua
WINE Experience

32 www.worldchefs.org
Olchagua is the valley of wine by excellence. Internationally awarded and
which, with all of its development, could easily become a gastronomical
route. Enjoying its flavors is the new challenge.

One thing is to have heard of Chile’s top winemaking valley, of its If what you are seeking is a great cook out, the ideal option is to
worldwide recognition, its awards, its endless boom, its denomina- visit Viña Viu Manent, which has the award for the best Malbec in
tion as Premium vineyard lands, but it is very different to experience South America. You will find the dining room in the middle of a
it in real life, to feel it. Because Colchagua is just that: a journey of the well groomed garden and a small winemaking museum. There, next
senses. You choose the vineyard you want to visit and there you are. to the adobe oven, delicious and celebrated barbecues are prepared
There is something for everyone. accompanied by fresh salads, unsurpassable homemade empanadas
and sopaipillas (deep fried bread). The lunch includes a tour of the
Because Colchagua means flavour. It is possible to find as many grape vineyard and wine tasting. And there is a spectacular store.
varieties as stocks, and along with the valley’s red wines, Chilean
food is predominant. Your stay in the Valley should be planned for a TRADITIONAL CUISINE
minimum of three days. In that amount of time it is possible to taste On the road to Santa Cruz, coming from the north, is the restaurant
all the variety of flavors for taking great memories home with you. It Panpan Vinovino, an antique bakery from the 19th century con-
is also enough time to see the zone’s abundant family vineyards and verted into a large dining room with the original adobe oven in the
bathe yourself in the terracotta, green, and ochre colors that tinge background. A great place for eating delicious stews and very good
the scenery. But let’s go one step at a time. The epicenter for starting meats. In addition, in the entrance of the restaurant, there is a small
a tasting odyssey is Santa Cruz and its Plaza de Armas. That is “the store that sells sweets, fruit conserves and marmalades, among good
spot” for getting information and beginning any gastrotour. wines from the valley.

DIVINE FOOD
Starting with the most refined, we recommend choosing between the
possibilities offered by the valley vineyards, that is, to choose a menu
prepared harmoniously with the wine varieties you will taste.

The Viña Bisquert is outstanding in this respect with the Chef, Pilar
Rodríguez, trained in the ultra renowned school Le Cordon Bleu,
founded in Paris. There, it is possible to choose between three differ-
ent wine varieties -therefore, three different menus, all of which are
fine and traditional. It also includes a tour of the vineyard and the
necessary explanation for understanding why each dish was chosen
to go with the wine. The novelty of this proposal is that each menu
offers a vegetarian option, just as delicious and well prepared as the
other dishes, something which is a true oasis of happiness for anyone
who doesn’t eat meat.

But if you want to dine and spend some time in the ambience of an
old wine cellar, with antique barrels and the atmosphere of winemak-
ing, the best alternative is to visit the new restaurant at Viña Casa
Silva –producers of the successful Doña Dominga wine- which also
has a small hotel. The place is up high with a view of the wooden
casks. The menu consists in appetizers and sophisticated dishes plus
some of Chile’s typical dishes such as humitas (corn tamales) or
turkey soup, depending on the season.

www.worldchefs.org 33
30 31
Latin American
gastronomy
Linking Latin American Cuisine with the Present

Traveling through the world we can deeply appreciate that, day


by day, the countries from the Latin American continent have
become increasingly present in various important events at an
international level, to show precisely Latin cuisine and culinary
advances in the area.

Nowadays, we can distinguish that it prevails, the taste and


inclusion of local ingredients as a cuisine that tends to rescue
products and regional culinary techniques; which shows a
return to the ancestral culinary roots.

The richness of the dishes of traditional nature gives a


surprising twist and recreates in stylization to present new
dishes in a contemporary way, at a high level, with a variety of
combinations and amazing flavours.
euda lisseth morales
Some aspects that make the difference and attract the eye president
towards Latin America is the fact that there is a growing guatemalan chefs association
expectation on the ingredients of this area to be included in
other cuisines as well as the unique peculiar culinary techniques
of these kitchens that then are noted in other cultures.

Then Latin American cuisine focuses on serving adapted


dishes with elegance and visual style determined according
to the innovative culinary processes. Globalization leads to a
cuisine with international standards, for which chefs specialize
themselves every day and are given the task of upgrading to
a level of professionalism to reach an important place and
deserve respect worldwide.

This process has taken time, effort and utmost dedi-cation in


recent years, since the chefs from this side of the world could
not reach out to show their talent, or to receive recognition
outside their borders. Now we can show that our cuisine is
already on the culinary map of international competitions and
that also our professionals achieve a recognition of the human
talent in the area which leads to prestige.

www.worldchefs.org 35
in&out of the kitchen – book review

Essential Tools
of the Trade
Text Catherine M. Bergeron

It is obvious that our ignorance of history is not the result of a


lack of information, especially in this day and age, but simply of
indifference. We just don’t think it matters. But it does matter. Our
understanding of the past models the way we view the present and
therefore determines what solutions we put forward for problems we
encounter.

If you don’t like history, you should read about it anyway and even
if you never learn to like it, you may at least learn to respect it.
Knowledge of different times broadens thinking and understanding,
and this can do nothing but help you advance your culinary skills.
Photo by Ragnar Fridriksson

Recommended additions
to your culinary library
Food: a culinary history from antiquity to the present
By Jean Louis Flandrin, et al.

Where does modern cuisine come from? Where do the ingredients we When French Women Cook: a Gastronomic Memoir
use everyday, like salt or courgette, originate from? Who is Antonin by Madeleine Kamman
Carême? What is Cordon Bleu cooking? Who are the Michelin Salt: A World History by Mark Kurlansky
brothers? Are the Italians responsible for French Cuisine? How many of
us can answer these questions? Cooking for Kings: The Life of Antonin Carême,
the First Celebrity Chef by Ian Kelly
We live in a fast paced world, and the culinary world moves at
Escoffier: The King of Chefs by Kenneth James
an even higher speed. Most of us like to characterize ourselves in
terms of where we are going, not where we come from. It is easy for A History of Cooks and Cooking by Michael Symons
us to insulate ourselves in modern ways and practical techniques,
Accounting for Taste: the Triumph of French Cuisine
becoming incapable of understanding why any reasonable chef
by Priscilla Parkhurst Ferguson
would take time out of his ultra-busy schedule to read about culinary
history and dusty old ideas. But history and “dusty old ideas” have Haute Cuisine: How the French Invented the Culinary Profession
in fact motivated much of modern culinary art. So if you don’t know by Amy B.Trubek
the story of Auguste Escoffier, some history of world cuisines, of the
origin of ingredients and culinary traditions, you may miss the point The Physiology of Taste by Jean Anthelme Brillat-Savarin
behind what you are doing today.
Would you like to have your book reviewed?
George Orwell, a famous British writer (1903-1950), said “He who Please send one sample of your book, cover image and a press
controls the past, controls the future.” Knowing your culinary history presentation to Catherine Bergeron. Postal address: Sudurhlid
is vitally important if you want to move forward. Learning about the 35, 105 Reykjavik, Iceland. Email: mailto:office@worldchefs.org.
past can help you understand what a chef is, who you are and why
you are doing the things you are doing the way you are doing them.

36 www.worldchefs.org
in&out of the kitchen – book review

naked ingredients
69 Sensual recipes from Bocuse D’Or competitor Sven Erik Renaa
presented in the most natural way by photographer Tom Haga.
Naked ingredients is a cookbook like you winner Charles Tjessem and one with the
have never seen before. Both Photographer Norwegian Culinary Team.
Tom Haga and Chef Sven Erik Renaa put
their talent to the service of fresh naked The book can be ordered in Norway from
ingredients, both in their very own style. www.norli.no or signed copy directly from
Without further comments, sometimes it is the author Tom Haga.
better to let the pictures speak for
themselves. studio@tomhaga.com
www.tomhaga.com
Chef Renaa has a long list of credits
including the previous captain of the Price : 498 Norwegian Kroner NOK +
Norwegian Culinary Team and the 2007 Shipping cost
Norwegian delegate to Bocuse D’Or final Language : English
in Lyon. In 2000 and 2006, Chef Renaa
was voted Chef of the Year in Norway
and received the Best Norwegian Chef
Photo by Sven Erik Renaa

designation 2008.

Tom Haga has five previous cookbooks to


WACS 210x140engl.4c 30.11.2009 13:55 Uhr Seite 1
his credit of which three with Bocuse D’Or

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in&out of the kitchen – travelling

Inspiring Iceland
Exquisite Dining, Haunting Beauty
Text chef sara harrel

While I often rent a car when travelling and venture out on my own, conditions but from Oct 9th to Dec 8th the single tower of light from
with only a day and a half I decided to avail myself of one of the Yoko Ono’s Imagine Peace Tower anchors Reykjavik’s night sky.
many tours. I’m glad I did, as the tour bus drivers were very well Located on the island of Viðey near Reykjavik, this tribute to John
informed and kept us entertained as they educated us. Lennon officially opened on Oct 9th, 2007 (the date of John’s birth),
and lights up the night sky each year beginning on that date and
In the evening of my first day I willed myself awake, as I lacked sleep ending on the anniversary of his death, Dec 8th. One contemplates
from a red eye flight, to see the Aurora Borealis, or Northern Lights. the single column of vertical light that seems to stretch to the
Since this natural light display does not begin on command like a heavens, easily piercing the cloud cover; is it beckoning, rallying,
theatre performance, tour operators check weather and cloud cover pleading for peace? Powered by geothermal energy, it is also at peace
in various locations before deciding if a tour will run that evening. with the earth.
I was in luck; the tour was on! We bundled into buses and headed
for the hills, where cloud cover was light. On the ride the bus driver Touring outside cosmopolitan Reykjavik feels like you’ve entered an
reminded us several times that it was not a guarantee that we would otherworldly place. On the popular Golden Circle tour, we passed
see them. You couldn’t blame him; it’s not like flicking on a light miles of rolling fields of moss-covered lava fields—barren mountains
switch. We arrived and saw a small cloud-like wisp on the horizon. where rocks and lava readily dislodge and rumble down the ridge—
He implored us all, “do you see the Northern Lights” and I thought small villages, greenhouses and summer houses built around areas of
he was surely gilding the lily! The wisps disappeared, but sure geothermal activity, and many distant snow-topped glaciers.
enough, half an hour later the sky lit up in a dancing light display,
dispersed and then returned for an encore performance. It was very Our first stop was at one of Iceland’s mighty waterfalls, Gullfoss, a
special indeed. three-step massive ‘staircase’ fall, powerful, wide, and loud. Unless
you approach the edge of the falls, you can’t see the base where the
The Northern Lights may or may not appear depending on weather water falls off so the water just seems to vanish.

38 www.worldchefs.org
in&out of the kitchen – travelling

Our next stop was in Haukadalur to see the geysers. The largest,
named Geysir, seldom erupts but proudly bears the name which
all others in the world are named after. One erupts every 5 to 10
minutes, soaring 25 to 35 meters into the air. These bubbling geysers
are situated in a geothermal site amongst various steaming mud
pools, algal deposits, and mountains. It is quite something to see a
hole in the ground quickly fill up with boiling, undulating waves of
water then erupt skyward in a sudden burst.

One can stay or dine at Hotel Geysir, conveniently located next


to the geysers. Chef Bjarki Hilmarsson, former member of the
Culinary Team in Iceland, heads the kitchen and bakes bread every
morning in the ground besides the geysers, using the - geothermal
heat of the geysers as a natural oven.

Finally we drove through the Þingvellir, Iceland’s first national


park. It’s the initial site of Iceland’s parliament—the oldest national
parliament in the world—and has been designated a UNESCO
World Heritage site. Words cannot describe the miles and miles of
unspoiled beauty, lakes, waterfalls and the continental drift where the
North American and Eurasian plates show their cracks.

I also enjoyed a rejuvenating visit to the Blue Lagoon, a massive


outdoor geothermal mineral spa, with the Education Committee.
Located near the airport, one can visit it upon arrival or departure
from Iceland. Needless to say, we left relaxed and reenergized.

My only regret on this visit? It was much too short! I wish I could
have seen and done more in Iceland; rode one of the famous and
fiercely protected Icelandic horses with their trademark fifth gait,
gone whale watching, explored some glaciers, spent more time in the
unspoiled beauty, visited the Imagine Peace Tower and enjoyed more
culinary exploration. Oh well, a good excuse to come again. Many
appreciative thanks to Gissur and the Icelandic Chefs Association for
their hospitality.

Iceland Quick Facts


Approximately
320,000 population
500,000 tourists annually
70 - 80,000 Icelandic horses
80 waterfalls
40,000 square miles (103 km2) of land
95-98% of homes heated with geothermal heat
11% of country covered by glaciers
3-4 hours of sunlight on December 21st
24 hours of sunlight on June 22nd. Famous golf tournament starts
at midnight – see www.golficeland.org.
No night darkness in June/July.

For more information, www.visiticeland.com

www.worldchefs.org 39
in&out of the kitchen – travelling

Dining in Iceland
The table was set; meters of white linen ran the length of our table for and guests patiently lined up to fill their plates from the display. Her
18 ending with a view to the compact kitchen. Fresh butter whipped culinary philosophy is to offer big bold tastes from basic ingredients,
with sour milk lay dolloped atop a lava rock, ready for spreading using as little processed foods as possible. Their signature whole
on warm bread. As I reached for a cauliflower amuse hiding in the wheat bread was truly outstanding, prompting visitors to make a
bottom of a terracotta flowerpot, I marvelled at the many wonders of special trip to pick up a few loaves on their way to the airport.
Iceland I had enjoyed in just a few days.
In only one afternoon and evening I had sampled some wonderful
Iceland, an island country of a little over 100,000 square kilometres local food delivered with a side order of warm Icelandic hospitality.
sits in the middle of the Atlantic Ocean between Northern Europe It was a great beginning, to what would prove to be a wonderful visit.
and Greenland. It’s also the home of WACS President, Gissur
Guðmundsson, and so, a fitting meeting place for the WACS
Education Committee.

I was invited by gracious host and WACS Secretary General, Helgi


Einarsson, to lunch at Sólon Café. The menu of this comfortable
bistro features familiar favourites including burgers, pasta and local
seafood made with much care. It’s a very popular café, and he enjoys
the tapas with the local smoked and cured salmon. As a vegetarian
(and vegetarian chef), I was curious what alternatives the local
chefs might offer in this land of seafood, fowl, meat and game. I
needn’t have worried. All chefs either offered vegetarian options on
their menu or readily accommodated my requests and offered me
an equally impressive meatless dish. At Sólon I enjoyed a perfectly
executed and delicious vegetable quiche.

After lunch I wandered around some local shops in Kringlan, one


of the two major shopping malls. I was quite surprised at how
many American and international shops there are—it was shopping
heaven—but with limited time, I poked around the local grocery
chain, Hagkaup, to glean insight into the local grocery experience.
Entire sections were devoted to natural foods, meat, vegetarian
frozen foods and the like, but what was really surprising was an
entire aisleful of bulk candy. Catherine Bergeron, Gissur’s wife,
later explained that every Saturday is Nammidagur, or Candy
Day, in Iceland! A day when many stores offer bulk candy at 50%
off. I wondered where the Icelandic obsession with candy began.
Nevertheless, I could just picture small children excitedly dancing
around their parents in the candy aisle, pleading for this or that
candy, and then enjoying their treats with pure glee.

I met Chef Hákon Már Örvarsson, a Bocuse d’Or winner amongst


his many other accomplishments, for coffee at Kaffitar, a successful
local coffee shop with 9 outlets. He works with “Iceland Naturally”,
promoting Icelandic cuisine across Canada and the US. Over a latté, he
enlightened me a bit more about the Icelandic culinary scene. Here, the
terms “free range” and “natural” are not just marketing lingo – sheep
actually graze openly in the mountains in the springtime, herbs are
grown in the mountains and food is prepared without preservatives
or additives. Strict environmental laws govern the fishing industry,
protecting the waters around Iceland, and ensuring the best quality
seafood. He believes in fresh, natural, uncomplicated dishes letting the
natural flavours of the ingredients shine.

Before heading out to the countryside to hopefully catch a glimpse of


the Northern Lights, I enjoyed a hearty, flavourful meal at Á naestu
grosum, one of eight vegetarian and semi-vegetarian restaurants
in Reykjavik, where the chef, Dóra Svavarsdóttir, who trained at
the Hospitality and Culinary School of Iceland, accepts qualified
apprentices for part of their internship. The dining room was packed,

40 www.worldchefs.org
in&out of the kitchen – travelling

WACS Education lamb shank and a variety of carrots with fresh and charred thyme.
And for dessert, skyr and ice cream with crunchy spelt flakes, and
Committee Dines fresh, dried and juiced blueberries. I enjoyed a tasty vegetarian
in Iceland option of Cauliflower—fresh, pureed and foamed—with couscous
and sunchokes.
On Friday evening we all met in person for the first time and headed
out to dinner at Fiskimarkaðurinn (The Fish Market), one of the
most popular restaurants in Iceland. Chef Hrefna Rósa Sætran Hospitality and
was a coach for the Iceland Junior Team and is a member of the
Culinary Team of Iceland. An elegantly casual eatery featuring many Culinary School
Icelandic ingredients coupled with Asian influences. One can dine of Iceland
on the unfamiliar—Smoked puffin with mango and coconut, or After the Education Committee finished its first day of meetings,
Grilled mink whale—as well as the familiar—local beef tenderloin or we were treated to a wonderful reception and tour of the
mountain lamb. Super-fresh sashimi, maki, tempura and vegetable newly expanded Hospitality and Culinary School of Iceland
spring rolls were also on the truly cosmopolitan menu. (Menntaskólinn í Kópavogi or MK) by Baldur Sæmundsson,
director, and Ragnar Wessman, head of the Culinary Department.
On Saturday we enjoyed a special meal at Dill Restaurant, The school has recently partnered with the University Centre César
located in the Nordic House in Reykjavik. We were a large group Ritz in Switzerland to offer higher level education in Hotel and
including Alfreð Ómar Alfreðsson, president of the Icelandic Chefs Restaurant Operations. In addition, the school has regular and
Association, Friðrik Sigurdsson, chairman of the Icelandic Culinary intensive apprenticeship programs including baking, cooking, meat
Council of Crafts, Andreas Jacobsen, vice president of the Nordic processing, dietetics and ship’s cooks. Front of house service is taken
Chefs Federation, and many others. Chef Gunnar Karl Gislason equally seriously and the 3 year waiter service program includes an
pulled out all the stops to offer us a very memorable meal, including 80 week paid internship.
butter-poached, pine-wrapped lobster with onion puree, fried
onions, seaweed and salt. Gunnar graciously provided vegetarian Sara Harrel runs The Veg Company (vegcompany.com), a consulting
alternatives for me including pureed and pickled fennel, and a salad firm specializing in vegetarian cuisine development and food
with cottage cheese and crème fraîche. There was also wild goose marketing. She is a part time instructor in Vegetarian Cuisine
with rosemary infusion, wild mushrooms, celeriac puree, burned hey at the George Brown Centre for Hospitality and Culinary Arts,
and a blueberry sauce, as well as skate poached in ‘witches brew’, or Vice President of the Escoffier Society of Toronto, a chapter of the
Icelandic tea, rutabagas, butter sauce and burned butter powder. Canadian Culinary Federation, Chair of the Industry Committee
for Chefs and Cooks in Ontario, and the America Continent
We had both lunch and dinner at Vox Restaurant in the Hilton representative on the WACS Education Committee.
Reykjavik Nordica hotel where we were meeting. The first page of the
menu is a ‘manifesto’, describing the restaurant’s ten philosophies for
their New Nordic Kitchen including purity, freshness of ingredients,
seasonality, animal welfare and promoting Nordic ingredients and
producers. Memorable dishes included slowly cooked breast of
goose with brambleberry, hedgehog mushrooms, kale and charred
sunchokes, a succulent fillet of lamb served with velvety potatoes,

Some Icelandic Foods


• Skyr (pronounced “skeer”) – thick creamy and yogurt-like,
skyr is a cultured dairy product with rennet
• Hangikjöt - smoked leg of lamb
• Harðfiskur – dried fish strips
• Snúður – frosting covered fried pastries
• Jólaöl – orange soda mixed with malt
• Laufabrauð – fried flat bread
• Vegetables and fruits – Iceland moss, root vegetables,
herbs, blueberries, black and red currants, strawberries,
crowberries, lingonberries
• Seafood and fowl – cod, puffin, whale, wild salmon
• Meat and Game – free range lamb, reindeer

www.worldchefs.org 41
in&out of the kitchen

In the Know
Heeding and feeding of vegetarians

Vegetarian. Vegan. Special diet. Depending on of vegetarians help you better understand this
your kitchen, these dining preferences may be growing market.
an integrated facet, a creative challenge or an
unwelcome aggravation in your operation. But Who eats what
no matter how you look at it, demand for more— Vegetarians or lacto-ovo vegetarians eat
and better— vegetarian menu options continues everything (including dairy and eggs) except
to grow. Fact: Approximately 4% of Canadian meat, poultry, seafood and ingredients derived
adults are completely vegetarian (more in larger from animal parts (i.e., gelatine, rennet). Some
urban centres), with women outnumbering men may identify themselves as lacto-vegetarians (eat
about 2:1. Fact: If we include the number of dairy, but not eggs) or ovo-vegetarians (eat eggs,
consumers who eat meatless meals sometimes but not dairy). Vegans (a smaller but growing
or more often, that number increases up to 25%! subset of vegetarians) don’t eat dairy, eggs or
(Joint position paper of the American Dietetic honey in addition to meat/seafood products.
Association and Dietitians of Canada: Vegetarian There are also many more “partial” vegetarians,
Diets; 2003) i.e., those that eat meatless meals several times a
Chef Sara Harrel week or no longer eat meat, poultry or seafood.
The Veg Company Many establishments now offer outstanding, Furthermore, some people may request a
www.vegcompany..com creative vegetarian dishes (and even whole vegetarian or vegan option due to ingredient
tasting menus). I’ve enjoyed and been inspired by intolerances or mild allergies (e.g., dairy).
some truly outstanding dishes – and sometimes
my fellow non-veg diners even cast a jealous
eye at what looks so tempting on my plate! Top 10 vegetarian
Unfortunately, though, some establishments that beefs from a customer’s
rightfully pride themselves on their culinary perspective
offerings still offer a “vegetarian option”
consisting of vegetables, rice and potatoes 1. Missing the mark: The vegetarian item
gleaned from the accompaniments of traditional ordered is not vegetarian.
meat and seafood entrees—artistically plated and
presented with aplomb to the horrified vegetarian 2. Limited choice: Only one item on the
patron! menu is vegetarian (and it’s a green salad).

Our customers have many reasons for following 3. No choice: None of the main dishes on
a vegetarian or vegan diet (full- or part-time), the menu are vegetarian—yes, this still happens!
including health, religious, animal welfare and
environmental concerns. There are many well- 4. Unimaginative choice: Thrown-
documented studies on the health benefits of together entrées like Fettuccini Primavera.
vegetarian diets and the environmental impact
of meat production. If you’re thinking it’s time 5. Lack of info: Waitstaff don’t know
to perhaps revisit, invigorate or expand your which item(s) on their menu are vegetarian
vegetarian menu options and practices, I hope or vegan (especially true of daily specials,
this short description of who eats what and a list soups and desserts).

42 www.worldchefs.org
in&out of the kitchen

“Many establishments now offer outstanding, creative vegetarian dishes.


I’ve enjoyed and been inspired by some truly outstanding dishes and
sometimes my fellow non-veg diners even cast a jealous eye at what looks
so tempting on my plate!”

6. Baffling buffets: You can’t tell which item(s) are


vegetarian or vegan—and sometimes you can’t identify what
is in the dish, or even what it is.

Banquets are a challenge, so they get three hits!

7. Serving delays: The entire table is served their main


course, except the vegetarian diner. Everyone either waits
politely, while the tempting creations the chef has carefully
presented go stone cold. Or, at the vegetarian guest’s repeated
urging, the rest of the table slowly begins eating while
Photo by Ragnar Fridriksson

keeping an anxious eye out for the server in hopes that the
meal will arrive before they finish theirs. Alas, this dampens
the enjoyment of the entire table, unbeknownst to the chef.

8. Quick-and-dirty solutions: The vegetarian plate


consists of the vegetables and starches minus the meat or
fish. Vegetarians like and need imagination! Good rule of
thumb: If you wouldn’t serve a particular vegetarian dish as
an alternative meal to your fellow chefs, then it doesn’t make
the grade for your vegetarian guests.

9. Mismanaging pre-ordered special items:


At a recent $300/plate gala, my entrée was a larger portion
of the appetizers we had all just been served! Perhaps the
event planner didn’t order properly or other guests suddenly
proclaimed they’d ordered the vegetarian plate. Anticipation
Photo by Ragnar Fridriksson

and communication—from meal/service planning to


back-of-house to front-of- house—are needed to get the pre-
ordered vegetarian request to the right diner.

10.Teasing and ridicule: A vegetarian and a


vegetarian chef? (Okay, this one’s a little more personal! It
used to be #1 on my list but thankfully things have vastly
improved in recent years—for both customers and me!)

Chef Sara Harrel runs The Veg Company (vegcompany.com), a


consulting firm specializing in vegetarian cuisine development and
food marketing. She is a part time instructor in Vegetarian Cuisine
at the George Brown Centre for Hospitality and Culinary Arts,
Vice President of the Escoffier Society of Toronto, a chapter of the
Canadian Culinary Federation, Chair of the Industry Committee
for Chefs and Cooks in Ontario, and the America Continent
representative on the WACS Education Committee.

This article appeared in the Fall 2008 issue of Mise en Place, a


membership newsletter published quarterly by the Canadian
Culinary Federation. The full newsletter is at: http://ccfcc.ca/en/
content/view/13/21/. www.ccfcc.ca

www.worldchefs.org 43
Welcome to WACS 2014
Taste of Norway!
The Norwegian Chefs Association is Norway’s Norwegian cooking. Our aim is to present You will be able to look into the Norwegian
most important assembly for professional chefs the culinary variations throughout the whole spirit during the WACS Congress in Santiago.
working in the hospitality industry. We are programme through a variety of events from See you then!
politically neutral but aim to raise important small coffee breaks to gala dinner.
issues in the industry for discussion and debate. Kristine Hartsvigsen
Although Norway is a small country, it offers President NCA
We have 1,300 members and 24 local chapters an incredibly long coastline featuring arctic
with voluntary boards composed of industry climates, the crossing of the polar circle to the Ruth-Hege Holst
representatives. These chapters organize local charming archipelago of the southern coast General manager NCA
meetings and various activities throughout with a pleasant climate - all benefitting from
the year. Although most of our activities are the mild Golf stream making life enjoyable and Sigve Skretting
conducted in Norway, we also have projects agreeable in the south. In fact, the coast line is Project manager WACS 2014
in collaboration with international suppliers. 25,148 km long.
In addition, our members are frequently
participating in international competitions such Yet another goal is to shed light on not only
as Global Chefs Challenge, Bocuse d’Or and our cultural and historical heritage, but most
World Culinary Cup. Furthermore, we act as importantly, our common future challenges
Secretary of the Nordic Chefs Association as such as the environment, ethics related to food
well as administrating their internet site. production, preparation, sales and marketing.

On behalf of the Norwegian Chefs The city of Stavanger is ready to host the
Association’s Board and 24 local chapters, congress. The local, regional and national
we feel certain that there is a willingness to government support the congress at various
collaborate and put in a great deal of effort in stages from 2009 until 2014. Our aim is
welcoming all WACS members to Stavanger, that Taste of Norway 2014 will serve as an
Norway. In line with the theme of the congress, important meeting place not only for the
Taste of Norway, the delegates will be professional WACS members, but also for any
introduced to the variety of classic and modern accompanying participants.

44 www.worldchefs.org
Istanbul Candidate for
WACS Congress 2014
Destination Istanbul Additionally, daily flights from most One can only conclude that the evolution of
Istanbul is a unique city in the world built European cities and direct flights from North this glorious cuisine was not an accident, but
on two continents. At the crossroads of America, Africa, Asia and Far East make it rather, as with other great cuisines in the world,
civilizations with a known history of nearly very easy to access to Istanbul from all over it was a result of the combination of three
2000 years, Istanbul is proud to be the the world. Over 70 international airlines serve key elements; a nurturing environment, the
guardian of the invaluable remains of the Istanbul with an average of daily 500 arrivals imperial kitchen, and a long social tradition.
three Empires capital city. Here, the chime of & departures at one of the most modern, safe
church bells mingles with the mystical calls and well organized airports in Europe. Turkey is known for an abundance and
of the muezzin and sight and scents combine diversity of foodstuff due to its rich flora and
to overwhelm the visitors. With the world The Turkish Cuisine regional differentiation. Secondly, the legacy
famous skyline of minarets and noisy bazaars An absolutely wonderful surprise, when you of an imperial kitchen is inescapable. Hundreds
on one side, and skyscrapers, award winning visit Turkey, is the food. The variety and the of cooks, all specializing in different types of
modern shopping malls on the other, Istanbul simplicity of the recipes and the quality of the dishes, and all eager to contribute to the royal
remains to be the unique link between east ingredients are guarantees of delicious meals. plate, no doubt had their influence in perfecting
and west, the past and the present majestically As frequently observed by Turks and the cuisine as we know it today. Finally
spanning along the fabulous Bosphorus of all foreigners alike, contemporary Turkish longevity of the social organization! The
times. With such diversification and so many cuisine is the heir of the diverse culinary Turkish state of Anatolia is almost a thousand
historical references, Istanbul also creates culture of the Ottoman Empire, extending years old and so naturally is its cuisine.
the perfect setting to organize most unusual over the eastern Mediterranean from the
special events which all together adds up to Balkans to the Middle East. The recipes are
unforgettable programs. originating from the rich culinary traditions
of this vast region, with emphasis on “living
Not only her natural beauty, historical tradition” – a practical repertoire of familiar,
richness and cultural splendor, but also well-tested, fine foods that can be prepared
excellent accommodation facilities, most simply and tastefully for contemporary
sophisticated conference and congress centers lifestyles, with easily available ingredients
make Istanbul an excellent destination for and in accordance with today’s cultural,
such international convention. aesthetic and hygienic standards.

46 www.worldchefs.org
WACS Events
Calendar 2010

Endorsed
Competitions
24-28 January
Global Chefs Challenge - Santiago, Chile

îçêKKK 24-28 January


hÉÉé=cä~ Hans Bueschkens World Junior Chefs Challenge - Santiago, Chile
16-18 February
Battle for the Dragon - Llandudno, Wales
21-24 February
Emirates Salon Culinaire, Gulfood, Dubai, United Arab Emirates
20 April
Food & Hotel Asia Culinary Challenge - Singapore
18-2 March
Istanbul Gastronomy Festival - Istanbul, Turkey
4-6 June
Penang Chefs Challenge - Penang, Malaysia
13-15 June
Gourmet Pacific Challenge, Fine Food New Zealand - Auckland
11-14 September
p~îÉ=båÉ Big Cooking Contest, FAFGA - Innsbruck, Austria
êÖó=~åÇ=t
~íÉêKKK 20-24 November
Villeroy & Boch Culinary World Cup, Expogast - Luxembourg

For information on how to become a WACS Endorsed competition,


please contact Peter Jackson,WACS Communication Committee at
PtrJck@aol.com or visit www.worldchefs.org.

Judging seminars
20-21 February
The Emirates Salon Culinaire, Gulfood - Dubai, United Arab Emirates
19-20 April
Food & Hotel Asia - Singapore
12-13 June
KKKçê=ÄçíÜ> Gourmet Pacific Challenge, Fine Food New Zealand - Auckland

k
19-20 November

hi n
Culinary World Cup, Expogast - Luxembourg

T ore you buy!


bef
Look out for dates from Brazil and Russia.

Become a WACS Approved Judge. Look out for new dates and
details on www.worldchefs.org

`lkslqeboj
ÅçãÄá ëíÉ~ãÉêë
ïïïKÅçåîçíÜÉêãKÅçã www.worldchefs.org 47
TRUE TASTE. GLOBAL EXPERTISE.

REPRESENTED IN AUSTRALIA P CANADA P COLOMBIA P C O S TA R I C A P HONG

SAUCES BASES
Products developed by our chefs to deliver made-from-scratch taste.
Prepared exclusively for foodservice, Custom Culinary® products are crafted with uncompromising detail
and feature only the finest ingredients from across the globe for true, authentic flavor in every experience.
True Versatility For amazing entrees, soups and sides, our food base and sauce systems offer endless opportunities.
True Performance Consistent and convenient with made-from-scratch taste and inspired results in just minutes.
True Inspiration Chef-developed, on-trend flavors that take your menu, and your signature dishes, to the next level.

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a part of prestigious and exciting culinary jeff@repositioninc.com
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