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Plywood Scooter

Plywood Scooter

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Published by Jim
Have you ever wanted to build a scooter from plywood? Well this scooter has a sound metal chassis which is hidden under plywood.
Have you ever wanted to build a scooter from plywood? Well this scooter has a sound metal chassis which is hidden under plywood.

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Published by: Jim on May 09, 2008
Copyright:Attribution Non-commercial


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 Man! This is it! Cost? $125. Does 75 miles to the
Mechanix Illustrated 
By R. J. Capotosto
ESIGNED and built just like a com-mercial model, the MI Scooter fea-tures an all metal frame covered with awood body. The metal chassis providesthe necessary strength. Angle iron wasused because it is inexpensive andreadily available at large hardwarestores. Powered by a
Clinton A 490
en-gine, the scooter has bicycle type handcontrols for both the gas and brakes.Construction starts with the frame.Notch the angle, then bend cold. To pre-vent buckling at the bottom of the V,drill a 1/8-in. hole at the bottom of eachnotch. Make a test cut on a scrap piecefirst to determine exactly where to drillthe hole and also to check the bend al-lowance. If you find after bending thatthe frame is warped, straighten it bybending the legs in the opposite direc-tion. Check for levelness on a flat sur-face. After cutting and bending allpieces, remove all burrs and bevel theedges slightly for a better weld.To weld, clamp the sections togetheras a unit and check against the drawing.If okay, weld all joints. The front fork bushing must be perfectly aligned whenwelded to the frame. Tack weld at sev-eral points, check and continue theweld. After finishing all welding, cleanthe joints with a chipping hammer toremove all slag and scale, then give theentire frame a coat of aluminum paintto prevent rust.The front fork is made by heating a1/4x2-in. bar at two places and bendingas shown. Align both legs of the fork then drill 3/4in. holes for the axle. Startwith a small hole gradually increasingthe size to % in. The steering post is in-serted into a hole drilled at the top of the fork. Let it protrude about 1/8 in.then weld securely.
Alignment is impor-tant as steering efficiency originates at this point.
Cut the post to the length indicatedthen grind a flat to act as a seat for thehandle bar. Position the flat so that it isparallel to the axis of the wheel. Bendthe handle bar from a piece of rigid con-duit and braze a shaft collar exactly inthe center. The setscrew hole shouldface the rear so that it lines up with theflat on the steering post.The kick stand is fashioned from apiece of 3/8-in. bar stock. To obtain thesmall bends, it will be necessary to heatthe rod to a dull red and bend in a vise.Drill the three small holes in the rodafter bending. Two of these are for cot-ter pins to prevent side movement andthe other hole is for the return spring.To keep the drill from "walking," grinda small flat spot, then center punch. At-tach the stand to the frame by means of small brackets cut from waste piecesof angle. Be sure to use lock washersor locking nuts when fastening thebrackets. This applies to all other nutswhere cotter pins are not used.The rear axle supports are made of 3/4-in. steel cut as illustrated. The blocksmay be left "square" if you like, butrounding them off will look muchneater. To shape the piece without diffi-culty, drill a series of small holes aroundthe perimeter, overlapping the holesslightly. If any "ties" are left, cut thesewith a hack saw. A hole is drilled andtapped at the bottom of both blocks totake a hex head setscrew. A correspond-ing flat must be ground into the axle endto keep it from turning. The mountingholes for the brackets may be drilled atthis time but the matching holes in the
gallon and has a cruising speed of 30 miles per hour.
frame are not put in until later. Tempo-rarily attach the wheel to the axle, thenspace with shaft collars. The wheelshould be centered over the frame andthe bracket temporarily held with smallclamps. Adjust so that the wheel isparallel to the frame, then transfer thehole location from the block to the frameand drill. Mark the blocks to identifythem so they will not be switched later.
The sprocket and brake assembly
are attached to the rear wheel as shown
1. Kick stand is formed from cold rolledrod. Brackets are angles bolted to frame.2. Partially assembled scooter showing theangle iron chassis. Note the kick stand.3. Rear axle supports are shaped by drillingseries of holes. Hack saw for final cut.984. Hole for steering rod should be cutbefore bending and gluing the mud guard
 Mechanix Illustrated 

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