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Drn Coee
Fy 25 minutes romMaui to Mookai onboard Mokuee Airinesor Isand Air. Enjoy yourrst views o Mookai’sword-amous sea cis.I made sure to heed the signthat visitors see when exitingthe isand’s airport: “Sow Down,This is Mookai.”There are ony a ew roads onthe sma isand. Head towardCoees o Hawaii, a pantationand espresso bar, to order yourrst o many Mocha Mamas. Thebeoved chocoaty iced coeedrink is the unocia beverageo the isand — or good reason.
Eat dinner at the Kuaapu‘uCookhouse. I it’s Thursday, it’sprime-rib night, so don’t evenook at the menu. Order thespecia — a huge sab o beecooked to order and served withrice and gried veggies — andchoose the papaya-seed dress-ing or your garden saad.Head 30 minutes west on theony road toward Maunaoa, andcheck into the Mookai Komo-hana B&B. Your hosts, Tom andKary Rancour, wi be waiting upto wecome you.
Rde a Mue
Meet the
paniolos
atMookai Mue Ride inront o their stabe at8 a.m. There are onytwo ways to get downto the Kaaupapa peninsua: Iyou choose to hike, get ready ora ong, muddy day. Opt or themue ride, and a you have to dois et your mue do its thing — itknows the 26 switchbacks downto Kaaupapa Nationa Histori-ca Park better than you do, sothere’s no need to be nervous onthis steep descent.At the bottom o the trai,board the bus with Damien Tours,the ony operator permitted toead groups through this ercey
travel guide
protected nationa park. You’make severa stops — MotherMarianne’s grave, St. FrancisChurch — but the highight isSt. Father Damien’s seasidegrave. At the end o the tour, yourmues wi carry you back up tothe top o the trai.Freshen up and then head tothe Hote Mookai, just east odowntown Kaunakakai. Fridaynight is Kupuna Night when theisand’s eders break out ukue-es and perorm or diners at theproperty’s oceanront restaurant.Ater dinner, stop or anotherMocha Mama at Coees oHawaii. (Great any time o day.)
You’ be gad you ueed upon caeine; at 10 p.m., Kane-mitsu’s Bakery and Coee Shopbegins seing hot, reshy bakedMookai bread. Wak down theaey just to the right o thebakery and ook or the hand-painted sign — or the ine opeope. A huge oa sathered intwo toppings is $5.75.
Scuba Dve
You can meet Timrom Mookai Fish &Dive at the KaunakakaiHarbor. Ask to see theBig Turte House or ana but guaranteed sea-turtesighting. Or et Tim expore newsites and see what you discoverwith him. He might even et youname the dive site.
You’ be hungry ater the dive,so have a hamburger, ries anda shake at Mookai Burger indowntown Kaunakakai.Stro down the street toon the history — but rememberto bring your own unch. This u-day adventure isn’t an easy hike.
Back in Kaunakakai, eat aneary dinner at Mookai PizzaCae. It’s the ony pace on theisand to get a pizza pie — andone o the ony spots that wi beopen on a Sunday evening.
On your way back to Komohana,stop and watch the sunset atKapuaiwa Coconut Grove. Justbeware o aing coconuts.
Ht the Beach
Ask Tom to makehis amous banana-and-macadamia-nutpancakes or breakast.Pack a cooer withcod drinks and snacks. Tom andKary can end you a reiabemap o the west-coast beachesand point out the best spotsto snorke (Dixie Maru Beach),picnic (Kaupoa Beach) and takea stro (Papohaku Beach).
Stop at Coees o Hawaii andorder one ast Mocha Mama orthe road. You’ have to speed upagain or the fight back home.
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The Fcts
PASSPORT NEEDED>
No
CURRENCY>
U.S. doars
OffiCiAl lANgUAgE>
Engish
WHEN TO gO>
May or dry, bamyweather and a historic hua estiva
lOCAl DRiNk>
Mocha Mama
How to Do>
Molokai
“Rustic charm meets tropical paradise on Molokai. And the people here are some of the warmest, mostcolorful friends I’ve ever met traveling. This may not be the Hawaiian island for everyone — but it was denitely the one for me.”
—
ADRiENNE EgOlf, EDiTOR
J O N A H E G O l F
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MOlOkAi
•
Kalaupapa National Park
•
KomohanaB&BPurdy’s Mac Nut Farms
•• kauanaaa•kuaapuu
Coffees of Hawaii
Haawa ••
Airport
•
Papohaku Beach
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Start Reaxn on Canouan
The Moorings cruise o the Grena-dines departs rom Canouan. Sorst I few to Barbados (you can stayovernight at the Crane, i you ike). Then Itook a erry to Canouan, amous or RafesCanouan and its spa with gass-foor treat-ment rooms set over the water. linger there.
Set Sa or Bequa
Board the Moorings cruise, whereCapt. Simon Goodhead and ancée/rst mate louise Coe take care oeverything. First stop: Bequia, perhaps theGrenadines most sociay vibrant isand.There are enough bars aong the waterront
How to Do>
Grenadines
“Many travelers do the BVIsailing tour, but I think thisGrenadines route is evenmore memorable, morebeautiful, more true to theold Caribbean we love.”
—
jOHN BRADlEY, CONTRiBUTiNg EDiTOR
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o Port Eizabeth or a proper pub craw; thebusting ruit market is a must-shop — and amust-eat is the obster pizza at Mac’s.
Drn Up Mustque
The saiing cruise continues arthersouth to Mustique and egendaryBasi’s Bar. I’m sti dreaming aboutthe rozen Mustique drinks. But ater, you’nd yourse drawn to Macaroni Beach, witha ong stretch o white sand. It’s wakabe,but you’re better o buying a ride romone o the taxi drivers by the dock. Cimbthe hiside at the south end o the beachor a bird’s-eye view. I you want to spendthe night, Firefy is a great treehouse-styeboutique hote on the more ivey west side.
Eat Up the Tobao Cays
Upon arriva here, there’s a goodchance that Romeo, a boat boy, wishow you the resh obster you’ haveor dinner that night. You can be sure to workup an appetite by snorkeing aong the reeand in the protected sea-turte agoon.
get to Mopon Eary
Here’s the thing about Mopion — it’samost too awesome. Essentiay ahump o pure white sand in the sea, ithas just one permanent thatched umbreathat’s set near its highest point. I you wantMopion to yourse, make sure the captainpans to arrive just ater sunrise. It’s yourony chance. Take it.
Sette nto Unon isand
As you enter Citon Harbor, Janti’sHappy Isand greets you. It ooks ikea foating patio. You shoud stop byor a beer. On Union, ook or some hand-painted signs on the main road poking outo the bushes just past Evergreen Cae. Thisis the entrance I ound to Costeo Paradise,the conederation o bars and art that cu-minates with the hitop Peican Bar and thebest happy-hour view in the Grenadines.
Swm o Mayreau
With a popuation o 300, Mayreaubarey ees inhabited. Cimb to thechurch at the isand’s highest point tosee the wide-open view. Say goodbye to theGrenadines with a swim in Sat Whiste Bay.
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Best Travel Guides: Molokai, Grenadines, Mentawai
http://islands.com/freeissue The best travel itinerary, day by day, for three trip destinations -- Molokai, Grenadines, Mentawai -- as featured in the May 2010 issue of ISLANDS magazine, available now in the ISLANDS Store at http://islands.com/freeissue .
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