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H2OBarrelRack

H2OBarrelRack

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Published by jlh151197
Wooden rack for storing six 55-gallon water barrels.
Wooden rack for storing six 55-gallon water barrels.

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Published by: jlh151197 on Apr 01, 2010
Copyright:Attribution Non-commercial

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04/01/2010

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adhesive and screws.Start with good quality 2x6 lumber. Dimension the lumber with a planer to1.5x5.5", or adjust the 1.5x5.5" notches accordingly. Use construction
3x2 Water Barrel Rack
"B"V. Rear 2x6 Posts"E"H. 2x4Brace Beams
24.0003.500
"D3"H. 2x4Top Beams
3.50081.000
"F"H. 2x4Support Beams
28.0003.500
"C3" Front and Rear Cross-Beams
5.50014.0009.75013.115R11.75081.00026.50040.500
"A"V. Front2x6 Posts
28.0003.5005.50059.5005.5005.5001.5001.500
 
3x2 Water Barrel Rack
(0) Optionally apply sealer/stain to the lumber, before or after cutting it.(1) Assemble front rack by laying four A's down and placingtwo C2's and one D2 into their notches. One attime, remove D2 and C2's, applying construction adhesive to mating surfaces of A's, replacing D2/C2, andattaching firmly with two 2.5" or 3" screws at each joint. Optionally, you can pre-drill each hole with a bitrougly 1/3-1/2 the diameter of the screw, to prevent splitting. When complete, measure both diagonals andclamp as necessary to make them equal; this ensures a "true" (square) frame.(2) Repeat for the rear rack. Allow construction adhesive to fully cure, at least over night.(3) Stand front and rear racks up (note that the C2's of both racks are on the front side, and the D2s are onthe outsides), and connect with E's, applying construction adhesive to ends of E's. Screws will be attached45deg angle from above and below, through end of E into A and B. Measure both diagonals and clamp asnecessary to ensure the rack is true. Also measure and true the horizontal diagonals between inner cornersof A and B. Optionally, you could add E's between the upper C2's.(4) Optionally allow construction adhesive to cure overnight.(5) Attach water barrel support beams F, two per barrel notch. Place one pair without construction adhesive,insert an empty water barrel, and note whether the barrel is supported by only F's, only C2's, or both, andadjust the height/offset of all F's as you wish. Placing F's flush with C2 barrel notches, or 1/4" lower, is a gooapproximation for those common blue barrels. Attach all F's with construction adhesive and two screws. Theexact angular placement of F's is not critical; just be consistent.
AAAABBBBC3C3EEEFFD3D3
 
3x2 Water Barrel Rack
The plywood is necessary, to give the rack "shear" strength, so it doesn't parallelogram and collapse in anearthquake or a teenagerfestival and squash your dog.G3 = 35x81" 3/4" plywoodH = 35x60" 3/8" plywood (a bit less than 60 is fine)I3 = 81.75x30" 3/8" plywood (a bit less than 30 is fine)(6) Optionally apply sealer/stain to the plywood and the rack.(7) Attach G3 so it is flush with the front of the front rack, and centered left-right. Use 1.5" screws, and attacG3 to both D3's and all upper E's; don't bother screwing it into the end-grain of the A's or B's, as screws donhold well in end-grain. Construction adhesive is optional.(8) Attach H's so their top edge is flush with the top of G3, and their front edge is flush with the front of the Aof the front rack. It is good if the H's do NOT extend all the way to the floor; leave more than 1/4" gap, andthe H's won't catch the ground and tear, when you slide the rack around your garage.(9) Attach the upper I3 so its top edge is flush with the top of G3, and it is centered. Ideally it will not extendbeyond the H's. Attach the lower I3 flush against the upper I3. It is good if the lower I3 does NOT extend allthe way to the floor, so it doesn't tear when you slide the rack around your garage.
G3H
Front
I3I3
Rear 
HG3

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