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Designer Profile2

Designer Profile2

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Published by lilarose196474
Designer Profile on Christian Dior
Designer Profile on Christian Dior

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Published by: lilarose196474 on Apr 15, 2010
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09/12/2012

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CHRISTIAN
 
D I O R 
27
 
Themostinuentialfashiondesigner
ofthelate1940sand1950s,CHRISTIANDIOR(1905to1957)dominatedfashionafterWorldwarIIwiththehourglasssilhouetteofhisvoluptuousNewLook.Healsodenedanewbusinessmodelinthepost-warfashionindustrybyestablishingDiorasaglobalbrandacrossawiderangeofproducts.“MymothersaysthatwhenIwaslittlemygrand-fatherusedtotakemeandmycousinsononesideafterdinnerandaskuswhatwewantedtobewhenhegrewup,andI’dsay‘ChristianDior’,”recalledtheFrenchfashiondesignerChristianLacroix.”HewassofamousinFranceatthetime.Itseemedasifhewasn’taman,butaninstitu-tion.”WhenLacroixwasgrowingupinArlesduringthe1950s,ChristianDiorwasindisputablytheworld’smostfamousfashiondesigner.HisnamewasknownallovertheworldandhislabelaccountedforhalfofFrance’shautecoutureexports.TheDiorclientlistranfromAvaGardnerandMarleneDietrichtoPrincessMargaretandtheDuch-essofWindsor.Ashort,pear-shapedman,withashinybaldpateandhabituallynervousexpression,hewascourtedbyParisiansociety:butsoshythathecouldbarelybringhimselftobowtohisaudienceattheendofeachcoutureshow.Fastidioustoafault,Diorrefusedtoreceiveanymanwhowasnotwearingatie:yetwassosupersti-tiousthatheconsultedhisclairvoyantbeforeeverymajordecision.
Christian Dior 
28
Fashion Designer, France1905 - 1957
 
ChristianDiorwasbornin1905inGranville,alivelyseasidetownontheNormandycoast.HewasthesecondofthevechildrenofAlexandreLouisMauriceDior,awealthyfertilisermanufacturer.Thefamilylivedinaprettygreyandpinkhouseperchedhighonacliffwithspectacularviewsoverthesea.TheymovedtoParisin1910returningtoGranvilleforholidayseachsummer.Diorlongedtobecomeanarchitectbut,athisfather’sinsistence,heenrolledattheprestigiousEcoledesSciencesPolitiques(nicknamedSciencesPo’)inParistotakeadegreeinpoliticswhich,orsohisparentshoped,wouldpreparehimforadiplomaticcareer.AllDiorwantedwastoworkinthearts.In1928,hisfathergavehimenoughmoneytoopenanartgalleryonconditionthatthefamilynamedidnotappearabovethedoor.GalerieJacquesBonjeansoonbecameanavantgardehauntwithpaintingsbyGeorgesBraque,PabloPicasso,JeanCocteauandMaxJacobhangingonwallsdecoratedbyChristianBérard.Disas-terstruckin1931whenthedeathofDior’solderbrotherwasfollowedbythatofhismotherandthecollapseofthefamilyrm.Thegalleryclosed.ForthenextfewyearsDiorscrapedalivingbysellingfashionsketchestohautecouturehouses.Finallyhefoundajobasanassistanttothecouturier,RobertPiquet.WhenWorldWarIIwarbeganin1939,DiorservedasanofcerfortheyearuntilFrance’ssurrender.He joinedhisfatherandasisteronafarminProvenceuntilhewasofferedajobinParisbythecouturierLucienLelong,whowaslobbyingtheGermanstorevivethecouturetrade.DiorspenttherestoftheWardressingthewivesofNaziofcersandFrenchcollaborators.FranceemergedfromWorldWarIIinruins.Halfamillionbuildingswerede-stroyed.Clothes,coalandfoodwereinshortsupply.Yettherewereampleopportunitiesfornewbusinessventuresandfashionwasnoexception.Diorwasinvitedbyachild-hoodfriendfromGranvilletorevivePhilippeetGaston,astrugglingclothingcompanyownedbyMarcelBoussac,the“KingofCotton”withanempireofracingstables,news-papersandtextilemills.BoussacmetDiorandlistenedtohistheorythatthepublicwasreadyforanewstyleaftertheWar.Dior’sdescriptionofaluxuriousnewlookwithasumptuoussilhouetteandbillowingskirtshadanobviousappealtoamanwhoowedhiswealthtosellinglargequantitiesoffabric.Boussacagreedtolaunchthenewcouturehouseinstylewithathen-unprecedentedbudgetofFFr60million.JacquesRouët,ayoungcivilservant,wasappointedasitsadministrator.ThehouseofDiorandits85employeesmovedintoamodestmansionat30AvenueMontaignewhichwasdecoratedinDior’sfavouritecoloursofwhiteandgrey.TherstChristianDiorcoutureshowwassched-uledfor12February1947.Clotheswerestillscarceandwomenworethesharp-shoulderedsuitswithknee-lengthskirtsthattheyhadcobbledtogetherasmakeshiftwartimeversionsofElsaSchiaparelli’sslinky1930ssilhouette.ThePariscouturetrade,whichhaddominatedinternationalfashionsincethelate18thcentury,wasinaprecariousstate.WhatitneededwasexcitementandChristianDiordelivereditinacollectionofluxuriousclotheswithsoftshoulders,waspywaistsandfullowingskirtsintendedforwhathecalled“owerwomen”.“It’squitearevelationdearChristian,”pronouncedCarmelSnow,theeditorofHarper’sBazaar,theUSmagazine.“Yourdresseshavesuchanewlook.”TheNewLookwasabsolutelyappropriateforthepost-warera.Diorwascorrectinassumingthatpeoplewantedsomethingnewafteryearsofwar,brutalityandhardship.HisnewlookwasreminiscentoftheBelleEp-oqueidealoflongskirts,tinywaistsandbeautifulfabricsthathismotherhadwornintheearly1900s.Suchatradi-tionalconceptoffemininityalsosuitedthepoliticalagenda.Womenhadbeenmobilisedduringthewartoworkonfarmsandinfactorieswhilethemenwereawayghting.Inpeacetimethosewomenwereexpectedtoreturntopassiverolesashousewivesandmothers,leavingtheir jobsfreeforthereturningsoldiers.Theofcialparadigmofpost-warwomanhoodwasacapable,caringhousewifewhocreatedahappyhomeforherhusbandandchildren.Dior’s“owerwomen”ttedthebillperfectly.
29
Coat, spring/summer 1953Christian Dior (French, 1905–1957); Christian Dior Haute Couture (French,founded 1947)Silk 

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