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Surfing Story Lo

Surfing Story Lo

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Published by audioactivated.org

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Published by: audioactivated.org on Apr 23, 2010
Copyright:Attribution Non-commercial

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04/22/2010

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CLICK TO ADVANCE SLIDESCLICK TO ADVANCE SLIDES
♫ Turn on your speakers!♫ Turn on your speakers!
 
ASurfingStoryASurfingStory
For the New Year For the New Year 
 
 
I was face down on a surfboardabout half a mile off the beach atWaikiki. I had always wanted to tryto ride the Hawaiian surf, but outhere among these giant greenswells I suddenly didn't feel veryadventuresome.This is far enough,” said theThis is far enough,” said thebrown-skinned beach boy who hadbrown-skinned beach boy who hadaccompanied me on his own board.accompanied me on his own board.“Now turn and face the beach.“Now turn and face the beach.When a wave lifts your board,When a wave lifts your board,paddle hard. Then stand up.”paddle hard. Then stand up.”I was face down on a surfboardabout half a mile off the beach atWaikiki. I had always wanted to tryto ride the Hawaiian surf, but outhere among these giant greenswells I suddenly didn't feel veryadventuresome.This is far enough,” said theThis is far enough,” said thebrown-skinned beach boy who hadbrown-skinned beach boy who hadaccompanied me on his own board.accompanied me on his own board.“Now turn and face the beach.“Now turn and face the beach.When a wave lifts your board,When a wave lifts your board,paddle hard. Then stand up.”paddle hard. Then stand up.”
 
 
“The main thing?” herepeated with a smile.“The main thing?” herepeated with a smile.
Stand up? 
“Tell me,” Icroaked, trying to keepthe panic out of my voice,“what's the main thing toremember?” 
Stand up? 
“Tell me,” Icroaked, trying to keepthe panic out of my voice,“what's the main thing toremember?” 
“Don't look back!”“Don't look back!”

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