From Neglected Parcels to

Community Gardens:
A Handbook

Our Mission:
Mission
To help people grow and share fresh produce.
To teach urban youth responsibility, cooperation and ecological awareness.
To be an active resource for sustainable organic gardening.
 Principle Author
Brian Emerson, with input from the Wasatch Community Gardens staff: Ginger Ogilvie,
Celia Bell, Don Anderson, Agnes Chiao and Rob Ferris.

Acknowledgments
Wasatch Community Gardens and the author would like to thank the Barbara L. Tanner
Fellowship and the University of Utah Lowell Bennion Center for funding this project.

Wasatch Community Gardens is a community-based, non-profit organization serving Salt

Lake City's low-income neighborhoods since 1989. Wasatch Community Gardens
cultivates individual growth and neighborhood unity through community gardening and
youth gardening education.

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 Table Of Contents
Preface 4
Introduction: What is a Community Garden? 5
Forming a Planning Committee 6
•Sample: Time Line For Planning a Community Garden
Envisioning Stage 8
Investigating Land Options and Choosing a Site 9
•Site Assessment Criteria and Selection Process
Acquiring Permission to Use Land for Community Gardens 15
•Finding Out Who Owns the Property
•Seeking Permission to Use Privately Owned Land
•Sample Letter to Property Owner
•Seeking Permission to Use City or County Owned Land
•Seeking Permission to Use Land within Existing Parks
•Tips for Proposing Community Gardens to City or County Councils
Legal Issues: Becoming a Non-profit/ Tax-Exempt Status 20
Things to Consider Including in a Lease 23
•Sample Lease Agreement
Insurance Issues 25
Generating and Assessing the Interest of the Community 26
Planning the Garden 27
• Sample: Community Garden Information & Policies
• Sample: Community Garden Rules and Gardener’s Responsibilities
Fundraising: How To 30
•Sample: Initial Community Garden Budget
Garden Coordinator, Steward, and Treasurer Job Descriptions 33
•Sample: Garden Steward Job Description
•Sample: Garden Coordinator Job Description/Responsibilities
•Sample: Treasurer Job Description
Prepare and Develop the Site 36
Organize the Gardeners 39
•Sample: Orientation Outline
Long-term Planning 40
Maintaining the Site and Promoting Positive Community Relations 42
•Challenges Community Gardens May Face
Resource Guide for Starting a Community Gardening 44
Sources 47
Appendix—Organic Gardening 48

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 Preface
Consider for a moment the problems of food
insecurity in communities throughout our
country, the decay of inner city
neighborhoods, the increase in city crime
rates, the disappearance of urban open
space, the suburban sprawl over arable lands
and wild places, and the lack of
neighborhood cohesion. Consider also the
nearly complete absence of locally grown
products on the average American dinner
table and the destructiveness of fossil fuel
dependent industrial agriculture—rapidly
depleting our topsoil (that takes 300-to-
1,000 years per inch to accumulate),
introducing toxic chemicals into our
environment, loss of habitat and
biodiversity, global warming, and the
disappearance of our forests. (Badgley
pg.203, 2002)
As a community we are becoming
increasingly distanced and unfamiliar with
our life-support system. In his book,
Coming Home to Eat, author and ecologist
Gary Paul Nabham writes, “The food we put
into our mouths today travels an average of
thirteen hundred miles from where it’s
produced, changing hands at least six time
along the way.”(pg 23) There is a growing
disconnect between consumers and their
food sources--between a consumer’s choices
and their larger social and environmental
impacts. Consequently, there is a growing
inability of the public to make connections
between their health and the health of the
environment.
Our cities have become monsters of
consumption, rapidly depleting our natural
resources, spreading across the land in
endless stretches of impenetrable concrete
and poisoning our community’s air, water
and soil. As urban areas continue to
experience growth, communities are losing
much needed green space for recreation,
relaxation and neighborhood gatherings.
The upshot, our social environment and
ecological life support systems are under
increasing stress. If these detrimental
patterns continue, the prognosis for our
communities will be one of increasing
sterility, pollution and social-environmental
illness.
What does this have to do with community
gardens, one might ask? Often doom-and-
gloom forecasts can be overwhelming to the
point of paralysis, disempowering the
individual who wishes to improve the state
of their life and community. Creating
community gardens is a tangible way to
affect positive change. Imagine how much
food could be grown on the vacant land in
our cities using sustainable gardening
techniques that improve our health and the
health of the environment. With the creation
of community gardens, blighted vacant
parcels in the heart of our ailing cities can be
converted into flourishing green spaces.
They create places where people can escape
the chaos of urban life, grow delicious and
nutritious food for themselves and for the
hungry, beautify their cityscape, reconnect
with the environment and their social
communities and reduce the distance
between their actions and their consumer
impacts.
Community gardens can make significant
contributions to the health of the earth and to
the enrichment of our communities. The
process of starting community gardens is an
empowering and fulfilling way to build
community and take responsibility for the
ills of our world. The benefits of the
finished garden are numerous, both for the
general public, and especially for the
community of, by, and for which the garden
was created. The purpose of this handbook
is to guide community groups through the
process of starting a community garden.
The process is not formulaic and the
information that follows is not meant to be
exhaustive. However, the hope is that the
following sections will prove helpful to the
planning and development of your own
community’s garden. Good Luck.

Introduction: What is a
Community Garden?
A community garden is a piece of land
shared by friends and neighbors for growing
vegetables and flowers, and providing
opportunities for positive social interactions
and recreation. It may be sandwiched
between two buildings, on the outskirts of a
city, in an apartment building courtyard, on
hospital grounds, alongside railroad tracks,
or even in your own backyard.
Community gardens can take on diverse
forms. Designated land can be divided up
among neighbors for personal use or
developed into school gardens where
subjects including biology, environmental
science, and mathematics can be taught and
explored in the garden environment. Other
community gardens have been used for
growing food for food pantries, educational
and training workshops, youth gardening
programs, and integrated into senior centers.
A garden’s theme and program possibilities
are virtually endless and should be the focus
of the envisioning stage.
What are the Benefits of Community
Gardening?
Community building tool--create
opportunities for neighbors to work
together
Grow fresh, nutritious produce in urban
areas for community members or
food banks
Clean up and use vacant and unsightly lots
Provide safe learning space for children and
adults
Reduce crime and vandalism
Preserve urban green space
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Economic empowerment—provide income
opportunities
Reduce city heat from streets and parking
lots
Enable positive human-earth connections
and the cultivation of environmental
stewardship
Reduce stress and improve mental health of
community members
Beautify and enrich neighborhoods and
enhance their sense of identity
Provide opportunities for intergenerational
and cross-cultural connections
How does a Community Garden
Operate?
Just as the settings for community gardens
vary, so do the ways for making them work.
The key to success is to create a system for
decision-making and responsibility-sharing
that works for you and your garden. A
governance system that involves all
members of the garden and interested
community members in maintaining and
organizing garden operations will support
long-term success. Typical garden
committees will address concerns about:
general maintenance, garden celebrations,
community relations, garden fees, rules for
the garden, and the initial and long-term
planning for the garden (see later sections).
What are Challenges that Community
Gardens Face?
Some of the most common challenges that
community gardens face include; Finding
and securing land; Long-term viability due
to loss of land to development; Lack of
community interest; Theft and vandalism;
Finding resources in an urban environment;
and Fundraising (for more information see
the “Challenges that Community Gardens
Face ” sections)
Forming a Planning Committee actively involved with its development, ask if
s/he will support the garden in other ways.
Community gardens start with 'community.'
Forming a manageable group of committed
Announcing the garden project at neighborhood
individuals ensures that one person will not be
council meetings, putting ads in local
doing all the work. Involving many people at the
newsletters, recording PSAs on local radio
beginning of the process increases the shared
stations and contacting representatives of local
sense of ownership and responsibility for the
institutions will help you recruit committee
success of the garden. If you want to start a
members.
garden in the spring, be sure to start planning no
later than summer of the preceding year. Gather
Once you have a group of interested committee
at least 10 people who are committed to
members, it’s time to call the first meeting. This
maintaining an individual plot of their own and
meeting will allow members to become
the garden as a whole for at least one season
acquainted with each other and is when
(March - November). Be sure to keep neighbors
community building begins. The agenda will
surrounding the garden informed about your
include envisioning what the garden could look
plans. A Planning Committee should include an
like, what land is available, and what focus it
organized Garden Coordinator who is willing to
could take (such as a youth education or food
coordinate plot assignments, water access, and
bank garden).
communication with gardeners and the
landowner. Other common committee positions
In addition to an envisioning session, during the
include a Treasurer, to handle the fees and
first meeting the committee will begin to discuss
money generated by fundraising. And lastly, a
the organizational structure of the community
Garden Steward, who is the link between the
garden, including: how will decisions be made
Garden Coordinator and the gardeners, who
(Ex. Consensus style voting where gardeners
makes basic repairs on the water system and
govern themselves), who will take what role
makes sure the garden is being well-maintained
during and after the planning stage, and
(see next section). These positions are especially
considering who would make good Garden
useful during the late-planning stages and when
Coordinators, Treasurers and Stewards.
the garden is in full operation. Until that time
the committee as a whole will be responsible for
During the planning process it will be the task of
the initial planning stages.
the planning committee to set goals, establish the
garden rules and regulations, decide whether to
The committee should have both people who are
incorporate or not, investigate land options,
interested in being gardeners and people who
negotiate the lease with the landowner, raise
have good community contacts with the city and
funds, determine the garden layout, create a
local businesses. Having an expert gardener on
budget, determine how problems (such as
board, such as a Master Gardener from the
vandalism) will be dealt with if they occur,
County Extension Office would be a good
obtain an insurance plan if needed, and make any
person to act as a reference and committee
other decisions that may arise.
member. Other possible committee members
include: representatives from local schools,
Dividing-up into sub-committees to accomplish
neighborhood council members, church leaders,
each task is an efficient and helpful way to
local politicians, representatives from nonprofits,
manage what to some may be a daunting list of
lawyers, and perhaps most importantly,
tasks. Focusing on one stage at a time will help
neighbors who live near the garden.
you avoid becoming overwhelmed. Possible
committees include: a fundraising committee,
This is a good time to start identifying local
outreach or public relations committee and a
sponsors who would be willing to help finance
steering committee to oversee the project in its
the garden or provide necessary tools or seeds.
entirety. Below is a “mock agenda” for the first
One of the committee’s first jobs will be to
meeting to help you get started. Remember, the
identify local and national resources for
more diverse the members of the planning
community gardening. If a particular contact
committee and “coalition” of sponsors, the more
person, such as a business owner, is interested in
resources will be available and the more
the community garden, but is too busy to be
successful the community garden project will be.

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 Sample: Time Line For Planning a Community Garden
Summer-Fall
1. Publicize the community garden project, make a list of interested individuals, and then
call, email or give each of them an introduction/welcome letter.
2. Call a meeting for those who showed interest in the garden project.
3. 1 st meeting agenda:
-Welcome, introduction
-Envisioning stage. What type of garden—theme (ex. Neighborhood garden), goals, objectives.
-Form a planning committee (sub-committees for each task), organizational structure, positions
-Next steps: (1) Investigate land options (2) Outreach/build support, funding
-Schedule next meeting date

Fall
1. Review and assess land options/contact owners, soil test
2. Continue outreach, generating interest
3. Start drafting budget, listing garden needs, determine garden plot rental fee (if
there will be one)

Fall-Winter
1. Finalize budget/start fundraising, looking for donations ($ and in-kind)
2. Choose a site, negotiate lease
3. Plan the garden--determine rules and regulations
4. Insurance

Winter
1. Continue fundraising
2. Outreach—look for volunteers (to help develop site) and gardeners
3. Plan the garden--layout

Winter-Spring
1. Organize the Gardeners: orientation, applications, waivers, fees, etc.
2. Finalize garden plan
3. Gather all remaining materials needed—plants, seeds, tools, compost, etc.

Spring
1. Prepare and develop site

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 Envisioning Stage
During the envisioning stage, the
planning committee churns out its
visions, goals and objectives for the
community garden project in a veritable
brainstorm of ideas. This is the most
exciting stage when community
members are most enthusiastic and eager
to start digging in the earth. The
questions that should be explored
include: What type of garden do we
want to start (a youth garden, a
neighborhood garden, a food bank
garden, etc.)? Who is the garden for?
What sort of programs could we run out
of the garden? Where could the garden
be located? Within what area should we
search for land? What is the goal for the
garden completion date? How will the
garden be laid out? What benefit will
the garden bring to our community?
What community events could be held
there?
Before the end of the first meeting, it’s
important to discuss briefly all the
different stages of starting a community
garden and the general timeline so the
committee can stay organized and up-to-
date. Other decisions that should be at
least tentatively made by the end of the
first meeting include: the general type of
garden it will be, what sort of programs
will be run out of it, and what
neighborhood(s) will be the focus of the
search for land.
Types of Community Garden:
Neighborhood Gardens: Garden plot
are rented to community members
who don’t have their own gardening
space. The garden serves as a
gathering space for neighbors.
Youth/School Gardens: youth garden
programs where youth groups
participate in hands-on learning of
subjects such as environmental
sciences, biology, and mathematics
in the garden setting.
Food Pantry Gardens: Food grown
in garden is donated to local food
banks often lacking fresh, nutritious
fruit and vegetables.
Market/Job Training Gardens:
Commercial garden/economic
diversification programs—in
conjunction with local farmers’
markets. Job-training, leadership
training, and sustainable urban
agriculture/small farm business
internship programs.
Mental Health/Rehabilitation
Therapy Gardens: Horticultural
therapy/healing gardens, often
created on hospital grounds. Prison
garden programs.
Others
Native/Drought-tolerant
Demonstration Gardens
Flower Gardens
Senior Center Gardens
Public Housing Gardens

Investigating Land Options and
Choosing a Site
Once a committee has been established
and the ‘envisioning’ meeting has kindled
the interest of the group, it’s time to
investigate land options for the garden.
There are a few key points to consider that
will help direct the search for land.
First, it is important to cons ider a number
of parcels as potential garden sites. As the
saying goes, ‘don’t put all your eggs in
one basket.’ In the context of starting a
community garden this point is essential
because not all of the sites that look
promising will work out.
There are a number of issues that can
make an otherwise ideal piece of land
unavailable. The property owner could
have other plans for the site or may just
not be interested. The soil could be
contaminated to the extent that it would be
dangerous to garden there. The
surrounding neighbors may not want a
garden in that site. Or there may be no
water access and the cost of installing a
meter too high an investment for a
potentially short tenure. Therefore, it’s a
good idea to consider several sites from
the beginning so as to avoid frustration
and disappointment when a particularly
ideal site falls through and to increase the
chance of obtaining land while the
committee is still enthusiastic about the
project.
During the envisioning meeting one of the
topic s discussed was, ‘Who is the garden
for?’ This question should be kept in the
back of one’s mind when searching for
land. The location of the garden should be
near the population it’s being created for.
Naturally, if the garden is being created
for a specific population, such as a school
or church, it should be located in close
proximity to it--on the school or church
grounds.
If the garden is being created for a
particular neighborhood then, if possible,
it should be located centrally and within
walking distance of most of its residents.
The closer the garden is to its gardeners,
the more attention it will receive and the
stronger the sense of pride and ownership
will be among community members. This
last point is essential for the sustainability
of the garden.
The investigation for land can begin once
the committee has considered the points
above and defined the area within which
they’ll conduct their search. Every open
space that typically goes unnoticed, every
blighted vacant parcel, every park and
patch of grass will become the focus of the
investigative eyes of the garden planners.
This is when the envisioning stage begins
to mingle with the tangible reality of land
gone unused. We all become planners in
this stage, assessing each piece of land for
its latent potential as a community garden.
Using the “Site Assessment Criteria and
Selection Process” listed below, the viable
lots can be selected and those parcels
unfit, removed from the drawing board
like so many weeds.
 Site Assessment Criteria and
Selection Process
The preliminary site assessment is a
general evaluation of a parcel’s potential
as a garden. Though there are a lot of
things to consider, this initial evaluation
only requires a quick visit to the site. The
following is a list of basic points to
consider when determining the parcel’s
viability.
Sunlight
Most garden vegetables require full sun (at
least 6 hours of direct light). Generally
this requires good southern exposure, so if
there are tall trees or large buildings along
the south end of the site you’ll want to
look elsewhere. If you can, observe the
site in the morning and afternoon to
determine whether or not it receives
adequate sunlight. Remember, deciduous
trees viewed in the winter will create more
shade come spring when their leaves
emerge.
Shade
On a sweltering July afternoon, thirsty and
exhausted gardeners will need somewhere
shady to relax and enjoy the garden
atmosphere. Look for trees as an excellent
source of shade. Placing benches or café-
style tables and chairs underneath them
creates a place where gardeners and
community members can enjoy the garden
surrounding in comfort.
Soil
Finding land with good soil in an urban
setting can be challenging. The good
news is that even if the soil isn’t ideal,
there’s almost always something that can
be done to improve it. When assessing the
soil quality there are a number of
characteristics to look at. These include:
soil texture, compaction, drainage, the
depth of the topsoil, nutrient levels, ph
levels, and the presence of heavy metals or
other toxins.
The preliminary soil assessment will not
necessarily rule out any piece of land, but
it will help you chose between several
options. The reason for this is that most
soil characteristics such as texture,
compaction, topsoil depth, ph, and nutrient
levels can all be improved with a little
work. Therefore the initial soil assessment
more than anything will give you an idea
of what inputs (labor, resources) you can
expect to contribute during the
development stage.
The ultimate determinant for a soil’s
viability for gardening is the presence of
high levels of heavy metals and other
contaminants. After the initial assessment
is complete and the landowner has been
contacted, a detailed ana lysis of a soil’s
nutrient, ph, and especially heavy
metal/contaminant levels can be conducted
by sending a soil sample to a soil lab at a
county extensions agency or private soil
testing company. (See the “Lead in Soil”
link in the Resource Guide… section).
For instructions on how to have your soil
tested in Utah call the Utah State
University Extension Service at 801-468-
3170.
In the meantime the soil’s texture,
compaction, drainage, depth of topsoil,
and some understanding of the nutrient
levels (by observing the site’s flora and
amount of organic matter in the soil) can
be ascertained with a quick examination.
Soil Texture is evaluated according to the
relative proportions of three main soil
particle types: sand, silt and clay. These
three classification types correlate with the
size of the mineral particle. Sand particles
are the largest of the three particles (and
the smallest mineral particle discernable to
the naked eye), followed by silt and clay.
Vegetable gardens should have a relatively
even balance of sand, silt and clay, but
often you’ll hear gardeners refer to an
ideal composition of 40-40-20
respectively).
A soil’s texture will help determine the
nutrient and water-holding capacity
(drainage) and the soil’s structure (crusty
to well-aggregated). However, whether
your soil has too much sand or clay,
organic matter (such as compost) will
improve its water and nutrient holding
capacity and add nutrients as decomposers
in the soil break it down. If an otherwise
good site has poor soil don’t be too
concerned. You’ll need to add compost
and in some cases (where the topsoil is
shallow), to add topsoil as well. For
instructions on how to take a simple soil
texture test see Appendix A. A more
detailed analysis will also be conducted
with the sample you send to the lab.
In addition to optimal texture plants prefer
loose soil to enable their roots to penetrate
deeper into the ground where important
minerals accumulate. Loose soil is also
much easier to work with.
Topsoil is the darkest upper layer of soil
usually ranging from 4 to 12 inches deep.
The deeper the topsoil the better, as this is
the layer where plants will obtain many of
their nutrients.
Researching the land’s previous uses will
also give you an idea of the soil’s quality
or possible contamination. For example,
if the site was once a parking lot or a gas
station then you might expect the soil to
be compact or possibly contaminated with
petrochemicals. If it was once a residence
then, depending on its age, lead-based
paint may have been used on the home’s
exterior and may have flaked off into the
soil.
Topography
While flat land is preferable for a garden
site (optimal drainage and minimized
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erosion), it’s also possible to create
beautiful gardens on sloped land. Garden
plots on sloped land can be staired and
held secure with wooden or stone frames
similar to raised beds with switchback
pathways.
Water Access
Water access is an essential component to
any garden. When observing a piece of
land look for an on-site water meter, for
sprinkler systems, or for an existing
faucet. If none of these are present, but
the land is otherwise ideal and the
property owner has given permission to
use the land, then consider approaching
neighbors. It may be possible to negotiate
water access from one of their sources. If
the neighbors agree this will save a good
deal of money (installing new water
meters can easily exceed a thousand
dollars).
Offering free garden plots to the
acquiescent neighbor is a nice way of
showing your appreciation. It’s also a
good idea to draw-up and sign a contract
stating that the community garden
organization will be responsible for paying
for the water they use.
The irrigation system can be designed
according to the garden layout and an
additional hose hooked-up for
supplemental watering of germinating
seeds and saplings.
Tool Box or Shed
While some community gardens require
that the gardeners bring their own tools to
the garden each time they work, most have
either a toolbox or a tool shed. Depending
on the garden budget, communal tools can
be purchased and stored on-site, or
community gardeners can store their own
tools there. When assessing land consider
where you could locate the toolbox or
shed.

Visibility
Good visibility will help enhance the
safety and publicity of a community
garden. The problems of theft, vandalism,
and violent crime will all be reduced if a
garden is especially visible to local
residents who can keep a watchful eye out
for trouble. A centrally located garden
will be seen by more of the public who
may be interested in being involved in the
garden. A garden located within walking
distance of its gardeners will receive more
activity and therefore will be safer and
better main tained.
Composting Area
Most community gardens have a
designated area for composting. Although
it’s not necessary, at the end of each
season there will be piles of dead plant
debris to dispose of in one way or another.
Composting this material is a free method
of disposal and will save money on
fertilizer and other soil amendments.
Composting plant material is also an
integral component of sustainable
gardening. Some community gardens
have aspired to become completely
sustainable (after some initia l inputs) by
growing cover crops and creating their
own compost instead of buying it from an
outside source. When assessing land
consider where the composting area might
be designated. For hot and dry climates,
locating the compost in a shady spot may
help it stay optimally moist to enhance
decomposition. Wasatch Community
Gardens recommends having a compost
spot for each plot.
# of Plots
It’s good to have a rough idea of how
many people will be interested in renting
garden plots so a site can be chosen that
will accommodate current and future
demand. Be careful not to overestimate
and acquire land that is unmanageably
large or underestimate and exclude
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interested gardeners who helped in the
garden’s creation. If a parcel is too large
it’s ok to start small and garden only what
is presently manageable.
Restrooms
Although restrooms are convenient they’re
not necessary since most gardeners will
likely live close by and won’t be in the
garden all day. Restrooms can be costly to
install and mainta in and if land is being
leased it’s impractical to build a
permanent bathroom. If it’s deemed
necessary to have one on site then
outhouses can be rented. This option is
practical for garden festivals, but again it’s
not necessary. In emergency situations
there are usually public bathrooms in close
proximity to the garden. If ownership of
the land is acquired and the garden made
permanent, then installing a restroom
would be a welcomed addition to the site.
Power
Power can be useful but again is not
necessary. About the only essential
component of a garden that may
sometimes require electricity is a water-
timer for drip irrigation systems, though,
there are many battery-powered systems
available on the market. If power is
needed for some occasio nal purpose such
as for lighting and music for garden
festivals, or for power tools, consider
negotiating to use a neighbor’s outlet or
better yet, if the budget permits, invest in a
small solar panel set. This would supply
the garden with enough power for the
occasional electricity needs and draw
interest from the public to see the newest
energy technology in action.
The Neighborhood
It’s a good idea to survey the
neighborhood surrounding each site to
evaluate the environment’s general
conduciveness to community gardening.
Assessing the demographics of a
community will help you understand the
needs of community members. This will
help you determine the garden’s
usefulness for local residents and help you
incorporate specific programs and designs
into the garden to address their needs. For
example, if there are a lot of children in
the area surrounding a potential site,
building a playground or youth plots
within the garden would address a need
and increase the garden use.
On similar lines, if there are many
apartment buildings with no garden space
or few sunny patches in surrounding
residential yards, there will likely be more
demand for garden plots then in an area
where large sunny yards abound.
Observations such as these can help you
decide if a garden will thrive or wither
away from lack of use.
A more direct method of assessing the
general interest level of local community
members is to send letters of inquiry about
the project and inviting their participation,
or simply to go knocking on their doors.
If the city or neighborhood council for the
area is active, try getting them involved as
well. Gaining the support of neighbors
and neighborhood groups is an essential
step. Starting early will only improve the
gardens chance for long-term success.
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Lastly, it’s wise to assess the level of
crime in the area around the site. An
excessive amount of violence, theft, and
vandalism in a neighborhood may create
an environment that isn’t conducive to
community gardening. However, the
process of starting a community garden
can be an excellent way to bring the
community together, transform crime-
ridden places into positive public spaces
and help reduce crime. If the decision is
made to use such land then a few
considerations will help minimize
unwanted incidents including building and
locking a fence around the property at
night with a code known only by the
gardeners (though this can create a more
exclusive environment) and recruiting
neighbors to keep a watchful eye on the
garden. City police departments keep
incident statistics on record that might be
helpful as you assess the neighborhood
crime levels. Also, often times the police
officers assigned to your neighborhood
will give area crime reports at community
council meetings. Form a good
relationship with your local officer and ask
them to keep an eye on the garden.
Rather than looking at crime as a problem,
it can be viewed as a challenge needing
people only to rise to it to bring about a
positive solution. Overcoming challenges
will bring the community closer together.
Vehicle Access
At some point it will likely be necessary to
have a load of compost delivered or rubble
removed. Therefore, vehicle access is
important
Parking
Unless the garden is exceptionally large
(100 plots or more) or frequent crowd
drawing events are anticipated, additional
parking is probably not necessary.
However, in already parking-stressed
areas parking could be a contentious issue.
Each site’s parking situation should be
assessed to avoid upsetting neighbors,
local businesses or churches in the area,
and to ensure the availability of parking
space for gardeners. Ideally, with good
planning, most gardeners will be within
walking distance of the garden.
Once the preliminary site assessment has
been completed, the next step is contacting
the owner. If they agree to host the garden
on their land then the last step is to have
the soil tested for harmful contaminants.
The following section will help prepare
you for approaching property owners.
(References for this section Eliot
Coleman, The New Organic Grower and
Center for Agroecology and Sustainable
Food Systems, UCSC)
14
Community Garden Site Assessment List
Sun:
Shade/ Partial Shade/ Full Sun (6-8hrs):
Shading Structure Description:
Facing Southwest/South/Southeast/North/Northeast/Northwest:
Soil:
Texture (sand/silt/clay/organic matter):
Drainage (wet-moderate-dry):
Depth of Topsoil (where darker soil ends):
Compact/Loose:
ph level (soil test):
Nutrient levels (soil test): N-P-K
Lead or Other Toxins (soil test):
Topography:
Flat or sloped (degree)
Water Access:
On-site/Neighboring Apt./Home/Business/Church
Type and Proximity to Garden and Future Plots:
Shed or Tool Box Site:
Composting Site:
Estimate of # of Plots:
Visibility (safety and publicity):
Parking:
Restroom Access:
Power:
Neighborhood:
Interest/Involvement Level of Neighbors:
Demographic Profile (Children/young adults/adults/senior citizens):
Crime (drugs/vandalism/violent crime/theft):
Animals (deer/raccoons from the hills/ dogs):
Site History (parking lot/gas station/residential):
Vehicle Access:
Quick Sketch of Property:
Acquiring Permission to Use
Land for Community
Gardens
Once several viable parcels of land have
been identified in your neighborhood,
it’s time to contact the owner. Listed
below are the steps one must take to find
the property owner’s contact information
and suggestions on how to gain
permission to use the property. The
steps vary depending on whether the
property is privately owned or on public
land, and may also vary from entity to
entity. However, the process listed
below should be relevant for most cities
or counties. Once permission has been
gained, place a sign on the parcel
publicizing it as the future site of a
community garden. Include contact
information so that interested members
of the public can get involved.
Finding Out Who Owns the
Property
1- Determining the parcel number:
A parcel # is used by the city/county and
real estate agencies to identify
property. This number can be obtained
by calling most real estate companies
and giving them the exact address of the
buildings on both sides of the parcel.
2- Getting the owner’s contact
information:Call the County Assessor’s
Office and give them either the full
address of the neighboring buildings, or
if possible, the parcel # to obtain the
property owners name and contact
information. Salt Lake County
Assessors Office # is 801-468-3050.
3- How is the property zoned?
During the process of obtaining land for
the garden, it may be necessary to know
how the property is zoned to make sure
that community gardening is an
authorized use (in most cases it will be).
This information can be found by calling
the city or county planning departments
depending on where the property is
located (the city for land within an
incorporated city or the county for land
on unincorporated county land). For
S.L.C. go to the city website, enter in the
parcel # and the zoning for that parcel
will be ascertained. URL:
http://apps1.slcgov.com/General/AddressInforma
tion/zoning_search.asp?passval=searchbynumber
Once you know how the property is
zoned, make sure community gardening
is a permitted or conditional use for that
zoning category by calling the city or
county planning department, or
reviewing the local zoning code. If
community gardening is not a permitted
or conditional use, find out why. The
zoning code may be outdated and up for
challenge. In this case the garden
committee will have to speak with a
planner to see if the ordinance could be
successfully challenged, and if so, take
the proposed change to the city or
county council’s approval. (See “Tips
for Proposing Community Gardens to
City or County Councils” section
below).
 Seeking Permission to Use
Privately Owned Land
Privately Owned Land
There are a variety of ways to contact the
owner once their contact information has
been found. They include writing a letter,
phoning them directly, or setting up a
meeting in person. A courteous and well-
prepared presentation of the community
garden proposal will increase your chances
for a positive response. Some of the points
that should be discussed when approaching a
landowner are listed below.
1-Inform them about the myriad of benefits
community gardens bring to communities
(see “Benefits of Community Gardening”
section).
2- Mention the personal incentives a
property owner has for hosting a garden on
her/his land. For example, they would no
longer need to keep the parcel weed free and
beautiful once gardeners are responsible for
maintaining the site.
3-Let them know that you have a well-
organized committee of interested
neighborhood gardeners who are committed
to the creation and continued upkeep of the
garden and who have already met for
planning meetings. This will help enable the
owner to trust that the garden won’t be
neglected, creating an eyesore worse than
when it was vacant. In addition, it will
assure them that the garden won’t fail due to
a lack of community interest.
4-Mention that a lease would be negotiated
(and reviewed by a lawyer) if they (the
owner) agrees to have the garden on their
property. We recommend that a lease
be signed for at least 3-to-5 years, as it
would be a shame to invest time
and money in a garden and then lose the
land the next year (see “Choosing a Site”
section).
5- Mention that a "hold harmless" waiver
clause will be included in the lease stating
that, should one of the gardeners be injured
as a result of negligence on the part of
another gardener, the landowner is "held
harmless" and will not be sued.
6-Mention that your group will purchase
Liability Insurance upon the land owner’s
request. This is further protection for the
landowner.
7-Ask what the past use of the property was
(it's good to know if the land was once a
dumping ground for toxic chemicals).
8-Be sure to ask about water access. If there
isn't any, you may want to look elsewhere,
as having water meters installed can be quite
costly. However, there have been examples
of gardens that have negotiated water access
with neighboring buildings. In one example
the garden treasurer paid for the community
garden’s share of the water bill each month,
while in exchange for the water access, the
committee offered a garden plot to the
neighbors with the yearly rental fee waived.
9-Mentioning that you have the support of
an experienced community garden
organization (like WCG) or gardening
expert will increase your credibility and give
further reassurance to the property owner.
10-If it seems likely that the owner will
agree, the next step is taking a soil test for
general information and to make sure that
it's not contaminated
 Sample Letter to Property Owner
Dear ,

My name is ____________. I am contacting you on behalf of the Avenues Community Garden Committee,
a group of Avenues residents working on starting a community garden in the Avenues. Our committee has
met several times for planning meetings and has started building a strong and diversified coalition of
supporters for the garden including a representative of the LDS Hospital Employee Advisory Council (who
offered volunteers), the Sweet Library Branch, the Greater Avenues Community Council, and the Cathedral
of the Madeline church. We’ve also had the ongoing support of an experienced community garden
organizer from the local non-profit organization, Wasatch Community Gardens, who has attended most of
our meetings.

We’ve recently started searching for potential sites for the Avenues Community Garden (ACG) and have
come across your property at 9th Ave. and G Street (494 East). As you might guess, the purpose of this
letter is to inquire about the possibility of using your land as the site of the garden.

We’d love to speak with you in person or over the phone to discuss what hosting a community garden on
your property would entail. We’d also like to present to you the beautiful and vibrant community gathering
space we envision and discuss our proposal in detail.

In general, the garden would be a place where community members who don’t have their own gardening
space (those living in apartment buildings), or who have too much shade (like so many residents in the
Avenues) could grow nutritious produce on plots that they would rent for the cost of maintaining the garden
each year. In addition to making individual plots available to community members, the garden would serve
as a gathering place facilitating positive social interactions. Other possible uses for community gardens
include offering adult educational workshops, youth gardening programs, growing food for local food
bank, and integration within senior centers.

The garden would be managed by the not-for-profit Avenues Committee and there would be an elected
Garden Coordinator to oversee the project in its entirety, a Treasurer to handle the money generated by
fundraising and the plot rental fee, and a Garden Steward who would be in charge of general maintenance
of the garden and to make sure that all the gardeners are maintaining their individual plots (this means you
would no longer need to take care of the site yourself).

Some of the technical issues that would need to be discussed include negotiating a lease, liability insurance,
garden rules and regulations, and water access and billing. Of course, all costs for the community garden
project would be covered by the ACG Committee and the gardeners.

I’ve included with this letter some general information about community gardens provided by Wasatch
Community Garden including a list of some of the benefits community gardens can bring to a community.

The ACG Committee is a well-organized group of interested Avenues residents committed to the creation
and continued upkeep of a community garden in the Avenues. We hope this will help you trust that the
garden will be a success if you granted us permission to use your land.

On behalf of the ACG Committee, I thank you for your consideration of our proposal. Please feel free to
contact me over the phone, email, or by letter to discuss the community garden project in more detail. My
phone number, email address, and mailing address are included below. Thanks again.

Respectfully,

17
 Seeking Permission to Use City
or County Owned Land
Land within Incorporated City Area:
1- Call City Dept. of Real Property
Management (Salt Lake City Real
Property Management 535-7133). Ask
them if the land is available and tell
them about your idea to start a
community garden on it.

2-Seek approval from the City Council

(see below for tips). Depending on the
property, its size, and how the location is
zoned, the process of obtaining
permission to use a vacant parcel owned
by the city may involve getting the
garden proposal approved by the city
council.

3- Once approved the lease should be
negotiated. (See “Investigating Land
Options” section, the sample lease, and
the “Legal Issues” section).
Land in Unincorporated County Area:
1- Call County Dept. of Real Property
Management (Salt Lake County Real
Property Management 468-2556).
•At any time during the tenure if
the County wants to use the land
again, the lease can be
terminated, but they would have
to wait until the harvest is
complete for that year.
(Incorporate protocol on what to
do in this circumstance into the
lease)

2- Obtain approval from County Council
(see below for tips).
•If organization has non-profit
status, the next step should be
having a lease drawn up and the
property should be able to be
rented for a nominal fee (such as
$1 a year).
3- Once approved the lease should be
negotiated. (See “Finding Property”
section, the sample lease, and the “Legal
Issues” section).
(Source: Lee Colvin at the Salt Lake County
Dept. of Real Property Management 10/16/03)

•If organization does not have

official non-profit status the
County by law has to rent the
property for ‘fair market value,’
even if the garden is not- for-
profit.
Seeking Permission to Use Land
within Existing Parks
Using land that’s part of an existing park
can be a challenge, but it has been done.
In some cases the activity of community
gardening might be seen as a limited use
that excludes the non-gardening
segments of the public—thus privileging
a segment of the public at the expense of
the rest and undermining the public
nature of the park system. Although
community gardens can be designed to
be as inclusive as possible (open to the
public for viewing during park hours,
accessible to wheelchairs) and would be
no more exclusive than such uses as
tennis courts or other specific use areas,
the decision may ultimately rest with the
city or county council (or other
approving bodies).
Again, it has been done. If you feel you
can make a case for it, showing that the
use will not be exclusive, then by all
means try it.
1-Contact and seek approval from Parks
and Recreation Div. Director
2-She or he would have to recommend it
to the County Mayor
3-The County Mayor would then have to
have it affirmed by the County
Council
(Source: Salt Lake County Parks & Rec.
Administration 468-2299, 10/15/03)
Tips for Proposing Community
Gardens to City or County
Councils
Forming a well-organized garden
planning committee before the proposal
is made will not only improve the
garden’s general chance for success, but
it will also help in the process of getting
the garden approved. The existence of
such a committee will assure the
approving council that there’s a group of
citizens committed to the ongoing
success and maintenance of the garden.
The garden’s chance of approval will be
greatly increased by circulating a
petition of support among neighbors of
the proposed site. In addition, ge tting
endorsements from local churches,
schools, businesses, government staff
members, expert gardeners, and
community garden organizations will
strengthen the proposal.
Do some research about the local zoning
code, and make sure the community
garden is a permitted or conditional use
in the area. If community gardening
isn’t officially listed as a use at all (not
listed as permitted or not permitted), be
able to demonstrate how the garden fits
in with the general character of the
neighborhood. To validate the proposal,
have a rough garden plan and layout
map to show how it will look and
operate. Lastly, have some general
information about the benefits
community gardens bring to
communities. Have articles and pictures
of successful gardens in other cities.
 Legal Issues: Becoming a
Nonprofit and Applying for
501(c)(3) Tax-Exempt Status
At some point during the planning
process the committee will likely
consider the pros and cons of
incorporating as a non-profit (through
the Department of Commerce) and
applying for 501(c)(3) tax-exempt status
(through the Internal Revenues Service).
Initially, a group may be interested in
incorporating to make it easier to acquire
501(c)(3) status. This status allows
donors to make tax-deductible charitable
donations, and thus, greatly increasing a
not- for-profit organization’s ability to
raise funds. Organizations with
501(c)(3) status may also be granted
exemption from federal income tax and
state income, sales, and property tax.
An organization does not need to be
incorporated as a non-profit to obtain
501(c)(3) tax-exempt status and
eligibility to receive tax-deductible
charitable donations. It is also possible
to apply as an “unincorporated
association.” However, if you are going
to the trouble of applying for tax-exempt
status, it may well be worth the extra
effort to incorporate as a non-profit.
There are several reasons why a garden
group might consider organizing in such
a way.
For example, by incorporating as a non-
profit, an organization achieves
government recognition as a “legal
entity,” separate and distinct from its
“owners,” or in this case, from the
garden organization members. This
status can be critical in protecting the
personal assets of individual members in
the event that a lawsuit is brought
against the organization. Liability
insurance protects the gardening
organization in such a circumstance,
though only to the extent of the coverage
determined in the insurance plan. If, for
example, a gardener is seriously injured
in the garden and decides to sue the
organization for $10,000,000—and the
liability coverage is only $2,000,000--
then the individual members of the
unincorporated organization may be
responsible for covering the difference.
Another legally recognized
organizational structure that offers
similar protection as non-profit status is
the “Limited Liability Company” (LLC).
Again, as a recognized “legal entity” the
LLC protects the individual members of
the organization in the case of a lawsuit.
In some cases, a LLC may offer more
complete limited liability than a non-
profit organization, may be less
complicated to start and manage, and
may entail simpler rules of operation. A
LLC can also apply for 501 (c)(3) status.
A community gardening organization
may also want to incorporate to gain the
ability to purchase and hold valid title
over real estate. If there is no legally
recognized garden organization to hold
title over land or to sign a lease, then
individual members must take sole
responsibility of ownership instead--a
heavy burden for individual members to
bear.
Moreover, filing as a non-profit
corporation or LLC that maintains its
existence as a legal entity, regardless of
changes in organization members, is
useful as members come and go over the
years. This last point is important when
considering the difficulties that may
arise with changing land ownership if
the title- holding member of the
organization moves away.
Therefore, for a community garden
created and organized by a group of
community members and gardeners, it is
less complicated for reasons of fairness,
legality (liability) and practicality to
create a legally recognized organization.
Lastly, incorporating as a non-profit
gives an organization access to special
nonprofit bulk mailing rates from the
U.S. Postal Service.
Incorporating as a non-profit and
applying for 501(c)(3) status can be a
dauntingly complicated process, full of
confusing forms and legal jargon. It
may not be worth incorporating if funds
can be generated in other ways than
receiving tax-deductible donations. The
question should be explored: Is the
gardening organization willing and
motivated to go through the process of
incorporating and gaining tax-exempt
status? It may not be worth scaring
interested gardeners and community
members from participating in the
planning process. The budget for
starting and maintaining a simple
neighborhood garden can be quite small.
A combination of money pooling and
receiving smaller, non-deductible
contributions from community members
may be sufficient for meeting the
garden’s budget. For most gardens, the
initial input of capital will be
significantly larger than the yearly cost
of maintenance, which, with some good
planning and community connections,
may be covered by the money generated
by the annual garden plot rental fees.
That said, there are significant benefits
and protections offered by incorporating
and/or obtaining 501(c)(3) status, as
mentioned above. Gardening
organizations should seek consultation
21
from a lawyer as well as assistance from
Department of Commerce and Internal
Revenues Service agents on the matters
discussed in this section. Some local bar
associations may offer “pro bono” legal
service to not- for-profit community
groups. (The Utah State Bar holds a
Tuesday Night Bar where an individual
can meet with an attorney free of charge
for 30 minutes. Utah State Bar, 645 S.
245 E. SLC, UT 531-9077). Also, for
obvious reasons, this section should
drive home the recommendation to
invite a lawyer to participate in the
planning process or become a supporter,
as suggested in the section on forming a
planning committee.
Helpful information for seeking further
assistance and concerning the process of
incorporating and applying for 501(c)(3)
status is given below.
How to Incorporate or Register as a
Limited Liability Company
Register with the:
State of Utah Department of Commerce
PO Box 146705
Salt Lake City, UT 84114-6705
Walk In: 160 East 300 South, Main
Floor
Information Center: (801) 530-4849
(877) 526-6438
Web Site:
http://www.commerce.utah.gov
If registering as nonprofit the processing
fee is $22.00, to be remitted with Article
of Incorporation. To legally solicit
charitable donations the nonprofit
organization must also file for a
Charitable Solicitations License from
the Division of Consumer Protection at
the Dept. of Commerce. The annual fee
for such a license is $100 as of January
2004. The fee for filing as a Limited
Liability Company is $52.00 and must
be remitted with Articles of
Organization. For more information
contact the Department of Commerce.
Helpful Information, Forms &
Publications for Obtaining 501 (c)(3)
Status:
Pub 4220: Applying for 501(c)(3) Tax-
Exempt Status A helpful document about
why and how to apply for 501 (c)(3)
status.
Pub 557: Tax-Exempt Status for Your
Organization The rules and procedures
that pertain to organizations applying for
federal income tax exemption under
Internal Revenues Code 501(c)(3).
Form 1023: Application for Recognition
of Exemption Under Section 501(c)(3) of
the Internal Revenue Code When does
an organization not need to fill out Form
1023?
Exempt status is automatically granted
to “any organization (other than a private
foundation) normally having annual
gross receipts of not more than
$5,000…”(pg.18 Pub 557, IRS).
However, if an organization files Form
1023 they will receive a letter from the
IRS recognizing their exempt status. By
doing so, potential contributors are
assured by the IRS that contribution will
be tax-deductible.
Form 8718: User Fee Exempt
Organization Determination Letter
Request For “new organizations that
anticipate gross receipts averaging not
more than
22
$10,000 during the first 4 years,” the fee
is $150. For more than $10,000, the fee
is $500. (Form 8718)
Form SS-4: Application for Employer
Identification Number Every exempt
organization must have an Employer
Identification Number (EIN) even if they
do not have any employees.
If an organization files within 15 months
from the end of the month in which they
were organized, their exempt status will
be recognized retroactively to the date it
was organized. (Pg. 17, Pub 557)
Organizations applying for 501 (c)(3)
status should review pertinent sections
of Pub 557, and then send completed
Forms 1023, 8718, and SS-4 with
Articles of Organization (an example
can be found on page 19, section Draft
A, of Pub 557) with all accompanying
documents and fees to the Internal
Revenues Service.
To order forms and publications.
1-800-829-3676
Asking tax questions.
Call the IRS with your tax questions at
1–877–829-5500.
The above information is given as
guidance only. Organizations applying
for tax -exempt status should consult a
Tax Advisor to assure all procedures
and rules are followed correctly.
Organization deciding whether or not to
become a legal entity such as filing as a
non-profit corporation, are strongly
advised to seek legal council from a
lawyer and follow the procedures given
by the Department of Commerce.
 Things to Consider Including •Hours of operation--when garden will
in a Lease be unlocked and open to public
•Who is allowed in garden?
•Description of land •What to do when lease rules are
•Beginning date, length of lease term. broken-- lease violated, warning system,
•Procedure for lease renewal/ probationary period?
termination. Will it be automatically •Is there an option for the garden
renewed? With or without notice? Will organizatio n to buy the land.
it be negotiated and resigned each year? •Mention the “waiver of liability” clause
Will there be a lease termination that all gardeners will sign as part of the
procedure? Will the notice be sent out to plot rental application
be received a specified number of days
•Agreement for garden organization to
before lease terminates, automatic
obtain a general liability insurance plan
termination when lease expires unless
if property owner desires it
resigned?
•Division of expenses, specifying each
•Clause allowing garden organization to
party's share of expenses: maintenance,
sub- lease plots for fee--specify tenant's
repairs, utilities, taxes, etc.
right to assign or sublease
•Outline duties to maintain and repair
•Rental cost per year—Who is
property—landlord or tenant?
responsible for paying it and by what
•Who is responsible for paying the
date each year?
property tax?
•What type of rent will be paid (cash,
•Will the lease require the landlord's
share, etc.)? How will rent be
permission before improvements are
calculated? When will rent payments be
made? If improvements are made, a
due?
method should be included for
•Other costs—Who is responsible for
specifying either the landlord's share or
paying the water bill?
how the tenant will be reimbursed for
•Who will be responsible for property the improvements when the lease
damage that occurred during the term of terminates.
the lease?
•Nondiscrimination clause
•Attach Garden Rules and Regulation.
Have a clause referring to them as part This above information is for guidance
of the agreement. Add any additional only. It’s advisable when negotiating a
rules and restrictions to the lease that are lease, to obtain legal review of the lease
not covered in the Garden organization’s agreement.
Rules and Regulation.
•Clause stating that the garden
organization will not act unlawfully and
will operate at all times in accordance
with city/county zoning codes.

23
 SAMPLE: 2001 Lease Agreement Between
Wasatch Community Gardens And Mrs. Jane Doe
Mrs. Jane Doe, owner, agrees to lease the property located at 100 West 100 North in Salt Lake City free of
charge to Wasatch Community Gardens. The property is 15,000 square feet not including the front lawn
located south of the gate.

The leased property is to be used as a public community garden with subleased plots, to be administered by
Wasatch Community Gardens. This lease agreement shall commence March 20, 2001 and continue
through November 20, 2001.

Wasatch Community Gardens agrees to sublease plots to the tenants of the apartments at 110 West 100
North for half-price (amounting to $15 for the 2001 season). Wasatch Community Gardens agrees to pay
the full cost of water used during the time the lease is active.

Mrs. Jane Doe agrees to care for the front lawn leading up to the gates surrounding the
community garden area. Wasatch Community Gardens agrees to coordinate the planting and
maintenance of perennial plants around the garden area, with boundaries as follows:
• Mrs. Jane Doe will maintain landscaping and plants outside the gates
• Wasatch Community Gardens will maintain landscaping and plants inside the gates.

This lease agreement will be reviewed at the termination date stated above with the option of renewal each
year according to the desires of Mrs. Jane Doe. Mrs. Jane Doe agrees to permit Wasatch Community
Gardens and the community gardeners participating on the leased property to hold at least one community
party/event on the property.

Wasatch Community Gardens agrees to act lawfully and will operate at all times in accordance with the
city and county zoning codes. The garden “Rules and Regulations” are attached to and considered part of
this lease agreement.

Wasatch Community Garden will be open daily to the public from 6am to 9pm. During the hours the
garden is closed the gate will remain locked. The garden’s Rules and Regulation will be visibly posted at
the entrance of the garden. If any member of the public acts in violation of these Rules and Regulation,
they will be given a preliminary warning. If a further violation occurs the individual will be asked to leave
the property for the remainder of the day. If repeated violations occur, the individual will be officially
banned from the garden.

All gardeners will be required to sign a “waiver of liability” clause as well as an agreement to the garden
Rules and Regulations as part of the plot rental application (see attached “Rules and Regulation” and
“Community Gardener Application” documents).

Wasatch Community Gardens agrees to hold an active general liability insurance plan for the property
during the full duration of the lease agreement.

Wasatch Community Gardens will not discriminate against any individual or group on the basis of sex,
race, sexual orientation, religion or political affiliation.

At the termination of this agreement the site will be returned to the owner in a neat and orderly condition.

Property owner:
____________________________ ___________
Jane Doe Date

For Wasatch Community Gardens:

_______________________________ _____________
( ), Director Date

24
 Insurance Issues
There are two general types of insurance to
consider when deciding on an insurance plan for
the garden: property and general liability
insurance. Property insurance covers tools, the
irrigation system, or other communal belongings
deemed necessary to protect. Liability insurance
(the more vital of the two) protects both the
community gardening organization and the
property owner from a lawsuit in the case that
someone (invited or not) is injured within the
garden. Both types of insurance can be written
up into one insurance plan. Also, it’s much
cheaper to be covered under an existing umbrella
policy than to create a new plan exclusively for
one garden. If there isn’t an organization that
offers this service consider setting up an
umbrella insurance plan with other community
gardens. It may also be possible to affiliate with
a parent organization such as a church or non-
profit organization that could incorporate the
garden into their existing insurance plans.
In general, the cost of the liability insurance
premium will be determined based on the size of
the garden, the type of programs run there, the
amount of anticipated traffic regularly passing
through the garden, and in some cases, the
appraised risk of injury to gardeners and visitors.
For example, if a large garden receives hundreds
of visitors a week, then the appraised risk, and
hence the premium, will be higher than for a
small garden that receives light traffic.
If the garden organization plans to host a public
benefit party or any other type of garden festival
that will draw a crowd, then additional event
coverage may need to be included in the plan.
Other issues that may come up when
determining an insurance plan include whether
or not the garden is locked-up at night (increased
chance of property vandalism and theft), or if
gardeners are allowed to use potentially
dangerous power tools within the garden.
The recommended general liability coverage is
$1,000,000 for each occurrence and a $2,000,000
“aggregate” coverage, but this may vary from
agency to agency.
If a garden is created on public property the
community garden organization might not need
an insurance plan because the property might be
self-insured by the entity that has jurisdiction
over it (the city, county, or state).
When starting a garden on public property the
gardening committee should check with the
particular jurisdictional entity they’re working
with to find out if any additional insurance is
needed.
Unfortunately in Salt Lake City and County,
public property used for a community garden
usually requires an individual public liability
insurance plan, as it will not be covered by the
city or county. However, because government
policies continually change, committee members
should always inquire about whether or not
additional insurance is needed as the lease is
being negotiated.
In the case that liability insurance is needed,
Wasatch Community Gardens has a plan with
Beehive Insurance Agency (801-685-2779), but
there’s sure to be other agencies that offer plans.
It’s a good idea to shop around to find the best
deal.
(Source: Susan Smith at Beehive Insurance
Agency 11-4-03)
 Generating and Assessing the
Interest of the Community
In addition to the suggestions included in
the “Forming a Planning Committee”
section, it’s helpful to create and
disseminate flyers to residents living in
the neighborhood surrounding a possible
site for the community garden. Such a
flyer can invite community participation
and feedback among residents and the
garden planners. If the feedback is
positive then starting a garden in their
neighborhood will be that much easier.
If the feedback is negative and
unsupportive, then it may be a good idea
to search elsewhere. Below is a sample
flyer that might be used to inform
residents in a particular neighborhood of
the garden planning committee’s project
and encourage their input and
participation.

Avenues Community
Garden
Would you like to have a space where you and your neighbors
could gather among sunflower forests and tomato-laden vines? Or
be involved in a project that could beautify and enrich your
community? A group of Avenues residents are working to do just
that by starting a community garden in the Avenues. The Avenues
Community Garden Committee has met several times for planning
meetings and has started building a strong and diversified
coalition of supporters for the garden.

We’ve recently started searching for potential sites for the

Avenues Community Garden (ACG) and have come across the
property at the end of 10th Ave. and M Street. The purpose of this
letter is to inquire about your opinion regarding the possibility of
transforming a portion of this vacant parcel into a community
garden.

We’d love to speak with you to discuss what having a community garden in your neighborhood would
entail. We’d also like to invite you to join the committee in planning and designing the potentially
beautiful and vibrant community garden space.

The garden could be a place where community members could grow nutritious produce on plots that they
would rent for a share of the yearly maintenance cost. In addition to making individual plots available to
community members, the garden could serve as a gathering place facilitating positive social interactions.
Other possible uses for community gardens include offering adult educational workshops, youth gardening
programs, growing food for local food banks, and integration into senior centers.

Some general information about community gardens provided by the local nonprofit Wasatch Community
Garden is located on the other side of this flyer.

Thank you for considering our proposal. Whether or not we obtain consent to use the parcel mentioned or
if we find land elsewhere, we encourage your feedback and participation in the planning and development
of the garden. For more information call 359-2658.
 Planning the Garden
Once a piece of land is secured, it’s time
to germinate the ideas considered during
the envisioning stage, and begin
planning them into reality. Some of the
questions discussed in the first planning
committee meeting probably included:
What is our vision for the garden? What
type of garden are we trying to create?
Will we rent plots to individuals for
them to do with as they please, or will
certain groups garden in certain areas?
Will some space be given for donating
produce to the hungry? Should we
include some specially designed plots
accessible to people in wheelchair? Will
we have raised beds plots? etc.
Questions such as these, as well as the
goals and objectives determined in this
first meeting should again be brought to
the table to guide the planning stage.
During this stage the committee will
address both the physical layout of the
garden and its operational rules and
regulations.
Begin by determining the square footage
of gardening space available and map it
out on paper. Then divide up and
designate the area into sections for
individual garden plots and all other
basic elements found in community
gardens. These can include communal
spaces (for herbs or flowers),
composting sites, meeting spaces, a sign,
a message board, a fence surrounding
the garden, tool boxes or sheds, a
delivery space, shady areas for gardeners
to sit and relax out of the sun, and
irrigation systems (centralized sprinkler
or drip systems, soaker hoses, or hand-
27
held hoses). Other gardens incorporate
playgrounds for kids or small
amphitheaters for community events.
When mapping out the physical garden
space, refer back to the Site Assessment
List (from the “Site Assessment Criteria
and Process” section) for a checklist of
the basic garden elements.
Plot sizes vary from garden to garden
depending on the preferences of the
garden planners and the desires of the
community gardeners. One garden plot
can take anywhere from 24 to 200
square feet. At Wasatch Community
Gardens, the most common plot size is
4’ x 40’ with 2 foot pathways on each
side. Beds should run North-South if the
garden is designed as a grid system to
prevent shading out plots.
Once the physical elements have been
designated and mapped out, the
committee should begin drafting garden
rules and regulations that determine
everything from gardening methods
allowed (organic or not), type of
irrigation system (drip, sprinkler, or
hoses), to establishing the date when
individual garden plots must be cleared
at the end of each season. Some of the
questions that need to be answered
include: Will garden members ha ve to
pay a plot rental fee? What rules will be
established? Will we offer free
seeds/seedlings to the gardeners? Will
there be conditions for membership?
Below is a sample “Rules and
Regulations” document to give you a
better idea of some of the concepts that
should be considered.
 Sample: Wasatch Community Gardens
Community Garden Information & Policies
Welcome to the ____(date) gardening season! Wasatch Community Gardens is a local non-profit
organization. We cultivate individual growth and ne ighborhood unity through community
gardening and youth gardening education. Our community gardening policies and procedures are
important for all community gardeners to understand. If you have any questions about this
information, please call ________(contact name) at _________(phone #).

Reserving your plot

Each gardener is entitled to one plot (approximately 4 by 35 feet) if space is available. If there is
space remaining by _________(date) gardeners will have the opportunity to rent additional plots for
the remainder of the season. A $30 garden plot rental fee is required of all gardeners. Garden plots
must be cleared of weeds by_____ (date). If a gardener has not used his/her plot by _____(date),
the plot will be given to another gardener or to the Was atch Community Gardens’ Youth Gardening
Program. The $30 fee will not be returned.
Land
With the exception of the Tomato Garden, we do not own the land used for gardens. We have lease
agreements with the owners but there is always a possibility that we will lose the use of the land.
For this reason, there are some planting restrictions (ie trees and some perennials).
No herbicides, pesticides or chemical fertilizers allowed
Our goal is to create and nurture healthy soil and a healthy plant environment in the garden.
Because plant and soil health deteriorates with the use of chemicals, they are not allowed in any of
our community gardens. Gardeners using chemical weed killers, fertilizers and/or pesticides will
lose their gardening privileges!
Weeds and tr ash
The city requires that we keep all weeds below six inches in height. It is the gardeners’
responsibility to control the weeds and trash in their own plots and adjacent pathways, and to clear
their plot of trellis materials and debris at the end of the season. Gardeners are also required to
assist with weeding common areas.
Water use, drip irrigation and mulch
Automatic drip irrigation systems operate at each site. WCG will maintain this system. Please do
not alter the system in any way. Please report any problems or leaks to WCG. The drip system is a
water-efficient method of garden irrigation. Each gardener will learn how the drip irrigation system
works at the gardener orientation meetings. You can also help make sure that water is not wasted,
and greatly reduce your garden’s water needs by using mulch (this also helps keep out weeds).
No Rebar
For safety reasons, rebar is not allowed for staking or trellising.
Cooperation and community
This project will be more successful if all of our gardeners work together. We ask that in addition to
your $30 annual fee, you also make a contribution of your time by participating in clean-up projects
in the spring and fall and general maintenance throughout the season. Each gardener is expected to
contribute 12 hours of labor to the garden during the year.
Please remember
Wasatch Community Gardens is a small non-profit organization supported by donated funds that
must be raised annually. Staff size is small and varies according to funding. The purpose of our
community gardening program is to provide access to land, water and general garden
administration. The care and maintenance of the garden is the collective responsibility of the
community gardeners.
Garden Addresses
Grateful Tomato Garden: 800 South 600 East Fairpark Garden: 300 North 1037 West
Marmalade Garden: 222 West 600 North 4th East Garden: 555 South 400 East

28
 Sample: Community Garden Rules and Gardener’s Responsibilities
Each gardener must understand and agree to the following rules and responsibilities before gardening with
Wasatch Community Gardens:
• Chemical weed killers, fertilizers and pesticides are not allowed in any garden.
• Garden fees are $30.00 per plot, payable when gardener registers for plot.
• Plots are available on a first-come, first-served basis. Gardeners are limited to one plot
(approximately 4' x 35’). Gardeners may have more plots and may be put on a waiting list for
extra plots, if extra plots are available by _____(date) of the gardening season.
• Disrespectful or abusive language, or destructive behavior can result in the immediate loss of
all gardening privileges, and forfeiture of any crops remaining in the garden.
• New gardeners must attend a Garden Orientation in the Spring. Returning gardeners are
strongly encouraged to attend Spring Orientations as well.
• Gardeners are responsible for weeding their plots by _____(date), and clearing their plots at
the end of each growing season (usually by _____).
• Gardeners are responsible for planting, cultivating and maintaining their own garden plots.
• Gardeners are responsible for assisting with maintenance of common areas at each garden.
Gardeners must contribute 4 hours in the spring, 4 hours in the summer and 4 hours in the fall
in the maintenance of common garden space.
• Gardeners are responsible for keeping the weeds in their gardens and adjoining pathways
below six inches in height.
• Gardeners are responsible for clearing all plant and trellis materials out of their own garden
by the end of each gardening season. Dead material should be placed in compost piles.

Wasatch Community Gardens’ Responsibilities

• Wasatch Community Gardens is responsible for administering the Community Gardening
Program.
• Wasatch Community Gardens is responsible for registering gardeners and assigning available
plots to each gardener.
• Wasatch Community Gardens will provide tools, technical assistance and skills training when
possible.
• Wasatch Community Gardens is responsible for maintenance of water and drip irrigation
systems and overall administration of each garden site.
• Wasatch Community Gardens reserves the right to make changes or exceptions to policies
where and when appropriate.

29
 Fundraising: How To
Introduction
There are many fundraising strategies to
be considered shortly. However, before
these are explored some general
fundraising tips will be suggested.
Starting a community garden doesn’t
have to be a costly endeavor, but it does
require at least some minimal
fundraising. By soliciting in-kind
donations and dedicating some time to
urban scavenging an organization can
obtain many of the resources needed to
start the community garden. It’s helpful
to create a fundraising committee both to
spearhead the initial campaign as well as
talking responsibility for raising the on-
going financial needs of the garden. To
begin, the committee should be able to
answer the questions; “What is the
purpose and mission of the community
garden?” and “Why is it necessary or
desirable to the community?” The
community garden’s goals and
objectives (refined, precise goals) should
be outlined by the planning committee
and then used to help convince donors to
support the project. The fundraising
committee should present these ideas in
brochure form so they can be distributed
to potential donors.
Although it’s not necessary, the garden
organization may want to obtain 501
(c)(3) tax-exempt status so donations are
tax-deductible—thus attract more
contributions (see “Becoming a Non-
profit…” section for more discussion on
this matter). The organization can either
apply for its own tax-exempt status or it
can affiliate with a parent organization
such as a church or non-profit group
under which to run the community
garden and thus share their non-profit
status.
If your community gardening
organization wishes to raise money by
soliciting donations from individuals,
corporations or foundations, you will
need to obtain a business license by
incorporating--such as by becoming a
nonprofit or LLC (see the “Legal Issues”
section). The license cost for
incorporating as a non-profit is $22.00 or
$52.00 for a LLC as of March 2004.
Any business (non-profit or for-profit) in
Utah is required to obtain a Charitable
Solicitations License from the Utah
Department of Consumer Protection.
The fee for the license is $100 per year.
A fundamental rule for fundraising is
“Don’t be afraid to ask: If you don’t ask,
you won’t get it.” Successful
solicitations will encourage you to
continue until you’ve met the budgetary
goal. The fundraising committee should
identify likely donors (gardeners,
neighbors, local institutions or anyone
else who will benefit from the garden).
When raising a relatively small amount
of money (which is likely the case for
most community gardens), individual
contacts will be the focus of your
solicitations. Frie nds and acquaintances
in particular are often those most willing
to donate a little extra cash.
The initial start-up cost can range from
$500 to $5,000 depending on the size,
the elements (tool shed, irrigation
system, type if fencing, extra wood,
compost) that will be included in the
garden and how much materials can be
donated. The ongoing yearly budget can
range from $300 and up depending on
size, water used, what’s offered to the
community gardeners by the
organization (seeds, tools, compost), and
repair costs (irrigation system). It’s
often cheaper for businesses to donate
in-kind rather than with financial
contributions. Go to your local
institutions, gardening and hardware
stores where you’re familiar with the
owners or staff and ask them for
donations. Take a “wish-list” of needed
supplies. If you aren’t familiar, don’t let
that stop you. Simply introduce yourself
and have information about your
organization, a fund-raising letter and
your “wish-list” ready to give to the
store manager. (Tip: contact seed
companies and ask them for some of
their seeds that they were unable to sell
from the previous year. These seeds will
generally only have a slightly
diminished germination rate).
Remember to say thanks regardless of
their response—they may decide to
donate in the future when they become
more familiar with your group. If an
organization seems especially interested
in your cause, ask them to be an official
fiscal sponsor.
In organic agriculture planting a
diversity of crops together in a garden
plot helps to prevent pest epidemics and
the spread of species-specific pathogens
(see “Introduction to Sustainable
Gardening Practices”), therefore,
planting diverse crops results in a more
stable garden ecosystem. Similarly,
using a dive rsity of fundraising
strategies will increase the financial
stability of the garden organization.
Several potential fundraising strategies
are summarized below.
Direct-Mail Appeals
Direct appeal fundraising letters are
given to local corporation/bank s,
foundations and individuals to solicit
contributions. See the “Resources”
section to find more information on how
31
to craft successful letters. Include a
“wish list” and a brochure with every
letter you send to introduce your project
to the targeted recipients. In-person
delivery is preferable if possible and
follow-up calls are advisable. In
addition, thanking contributors and
publicly acknowledging them is an
essential way to show your appreciation
and maintain a strong relationship.
Don’t be discouraged. Initial response
may be minimal until the organization is
more widely known.
Writing Grant Proposal
Grant writing can draw in significant
contributions if done skillfully, though it
can take 6 months or longer to get a
response. Generally larger nonprofit
organizations that have tax-exempt
status utilize this strategy. Due to the
elaborate process and limited space in
this handbook, grant writing will not be
discussed here. See the “Resources”
section that follows for good references
on this subject.
Survey Letter
Creating and disseminating a survey
asking people for their input regarding
the community garden project is a good
introductory strategy that can
accompany a letter or be sent
individually. Start the survey with
several questions that do not involve
making donations, such as:
1)“Do you support the creation of a community garden
in your neighborhood?”
2)“What type of garden would you like to see in your
neighborhood (Youth Garden/Food Bank
Garden/Educational Garden/Neighborhood
Garden/Flower Garden. etc.)?”
3)“What type of programs would you like to see the
garden organization offer?”
Then embed a subtle question into the
survey regarding the respondent’s
 willingness to donate time, materials, or
money.
Door-to-Door Solicitation (people hate
to do it, but it’s effective)
This strategy is self-explanatory.
Remember to have information ready to
give out and be willing to listen to the
concerns and input of those you
approach. Again, thank them for their
time regardless of whether they make a
contribution or not.
Fundraising Events
It’s easy to overextend fundraising
events and end up spending as much or
more money organizing them then is
raised in the end. Be careful to plan an
event of the appropriate scale for your
needs. It’s not necessary to spend a lot
of money to raise some. Be creative.
Ideas to consider include: car washes,
craft/bake sales, benefit concerts or
lectures, auctions and raffles of donated
items, plant sales, garden tours, harvest
festivals/sales, creating and selling
garden cookbooks and holding
workshops taught by volunteer experts.
When appropriate, entry fees can be
charged. Fundraising events can also
draw good publicity. Make certain that
every potential donor is invited. Also,
always have an official and recognizable
“donation can” present at each function
that you plan.
The above information is intended as
guidance only. It’s advisable to consult a
lawyer regarding any legal issues that your
committee is dealing with.

Sample: Initial Community Garden Budget

Start-up Min. Cost Max. Cost Payment Explanation

Soil Test $30 $30
Compost $60 $350 Cheaper source/partial donation
Drip Irrigation System $250.00 $625.00 Donation from local farm that has leftovers
Water Timer $30 $60 Cheaper model/partial donation
Fencing $150 $2,000 Salvaged wood/cheaper source/partial donation
Sign $0 $100 Salvaged materials/donation
Tools $50 $250 Tool drive donation Initiative
Wood for Tool Bin $50 $100 Look for donation/reclaimed wood
Liability Insurance $50 $350 "Min." with Organizational sponsorship
Benches (3) $0 $100 Look for donations/used
Incidentals that might arise $100 $250
Renting Tiller $0 $50 Look for donation
Outreach/PR $20 $60 Min. with flyer printing/ Max. printing + ad

Cost Totals Min./Max. $790 $4,325

Garden Coordinator, Steward, and Treasurer Job Descriptions

32

Garden Coordinator, Steward,
and Treasurer Job Descriptions
As the community garden nears
completion, the volunteer garden staff
potions should be created and filled. In
the “Forming a Planning Committee”
section three staff positions were
discussed: a Garden Coordinator who
acts as the garden contact person and
coordinates gardeners and plot
assignments, water access, and
communication with the landowner; a
Treasurer, to handle the fees and money
generated by fundraising, and maintain
the checking account; and a Garden
Steward, who is the link between the
Garden Coordinator and the gardeners,
the person responsible for making basic
repairs in the garden (water system,
fence, etc.), and making sure the garden
is well- maintained and the rules
followed. The division of
responsibilities can vary as the
committee sees fit. Therefore, more than
recommending indispensable positions,
those noted above serve to highlight
responsibilities and essential tasks.
Some Garden Coordinators may also
serve as the treasurer. Other gardens
33
may have more than one Garden
Steward. The most essential issue is to
have at least one person in the garden
managing it and acting as a liaison
between the gardeners and the garden
organizer, and one person who deals
with administrative issues such as
community relations, finances, and plot
assignment.
If the community garden is a youth
garden then the positions outlines above
will differ in responsibilities. For
example, instead of assigning plots to
individual community gardeners, the
Garden Coordinator might assign them
to different youth groups or simply
coordinate the garden educational series
and select or develop curriculum.
Regardless of the type of garden, it will
still need people to manage the garden,
coordinate administrative affairs, and to
handle the money. Other possible
positions include an ongoing Fundraiser
and an Events Coordinator. Given the
minimal budget of most community
gardens payment for staff persons is not
often possible. Offering plot fee waivers
for the term of service is a nice way to
compensate volunteers for their services.
Examples of job descriptions for the
Garden Steward, Garden Coordinator
and Treasurer positions are given below.
These documents are primarily intended
to give guidance to the committee and
staff persons, as every community
garden’s needs, purpose and
organizational structure will be different.
 Sample: Garden Steward Job Description
Term of Service/ Selection Process
One year (November-October)
Appointed by Community Gardening Committee (application must be filled out)

Preseason Responsibilities
Lay out community garden goals for Garden Steward program
Understand roles, responsibilities, expectations of garden organization, community
gardeners and Stewards
Define authority, rule enforcement process (warning system) before the season begins
Know how to operate garden—steward should know basics in irrigation system
maintenance repair, tool box/shed combo, etc.
Investigate leadership styles, different ways to operate garden, how to deal with difficult
people, conflict resolution
Develop goals and strategies for achieving them
Example Goals for the Season
Take every step possible to reduce water usage in all gardens
Increase gardener attendance at workshops
Increase gardener participation in maintaining communal areas
Hold a community celebration in each garden
Increase composting in each garden
Determine calendar for coming year

Continual, In-season Responsibilities

Conduct routine clean-up/inspection rounds
Address community gardeners concerns in a timely manner
Act as a spokesperson for your garden - communicate garden needs
Act as a link between the Community Gardening Coordinator and the gardeners in your
garden
Help Community Gardening Coordinator plan and implement social events, garden
gatherings, and work projects in the garden
Make basic repairs on the garden water system
Implement positive change in your garden
Attend three update meetings per year with other Garden Stewards and Program
Coordinator
Monitor the garden for signs of theft and/or vandalism
Monitor the garden for chemical usage (e.g. Miracle Grow, Round Up)
Make and post spring and fall checklist for individual plots and communal areas

Tips for Garden Stewards Position

Proximity is important—Steward should live close to garden to pay frequent visits to it
Ask each gardener what they could contribute to the garden—use their strengths
Understand Steward’s strong points —technical knowledge, people person, well-
organized
Understand and work on Steward’s weaknesses
Enforce rules quickly—when some gardeners obey rules and some don’t, tension and
animosity can result.
Maintain garden systems such as the drip irrigation system, compost bins, etc.

Who to Contact in Case of:

Water emergency 535-6900 Water Company
Vandalism (Graffiti Hotline), Violence, Police (non-emergency) 799-3000 Salt Lake City
Emergency 911

34
 Sample: Garden Coordinator Job Description/Responsibilities
Coordinate and Train Garden Steward, enable them to handle gardener disputes and organize communal
space work projects
Organizes Community Garden Committee meetings
Recruit gardeners for garden each season as space is available
Assign garden plots
Plan and conduct garden orientations for community gardeners, work projects, and
general garden meetings
Help committee determine which community gardeners would make good Garden Stewards and
Treasurers--ask them if they’re interested in volunteering for the job.
Determine roles, responsibilities, expectations of garden organization, community
gardeners and Garden Coordinator
Lay out community garden goals with the Garden Steward and Treasurer
Determine method of communication with Garden Steward (check-in schedule)
Investigate leadership styles, different ways to operate garden, how to deal with difficult
people, conflict resolution
Understand water and compost systems, policies and enforcement
Maintain good community relations, active public outreach, community contact list
(community councils, churches, businesses, neighbors, non-profits, government
staff, etc.)
Resolve conflicts that the Garden Steward and gardeners were unable to resolve
Sign lease on behalf of garden committee
Renew garden insurance plan
Help treasurer with fundraising
Help Garden Steward plan and implement social events, garden gatherings, and work
projects in the garden
Develop goals and strategies for achieving them
Example Goals for the Season
Take every step possible to reduce water usage in all gardens
Increase gardener attendance at workshops
Increase gardener participation in maintaining communal areas
Hold a community celebration in each garden
Active composting in each garden
Determine calendar for coming year with Garden Steward and Treasurer

Sample: Treasurer Job Description

The treasurer position doesn’t take as much of a time commitment as the Garden Steward or Coordinator
positions, but it does entail a lot of responsibility.

Tasks include:
Managing the organizations finances and bank account
Paying the bills —water, insurance, utilities, resources, etc.
Issuing checks for expenses requested and approved by committee
Depositing rental fees
Helping the Garden Coordinator and planning committee raise funds

35
 Prepare and Develop the Site
Once the garden plan has been finished
and the necessary materials and funds
gathered, it’s time to prepare and develop
the site. This is when the sweat and toil
endured over the planning table begins to
fruit, tangibly and the committee and
community gardeners actually get to stick
their fingers into the earth and be glad.
Several tasks need to be completed during
this stage:
1) Organize one or more garden
workdays to develop the garden space
2) Notify all volunteers and prepare
them for the workday
3) Have utility companies mark out any
water, gas, or utility lines and hook-up
water before the workday
4) Amass all the input material, supplies
and tools needed to create the garden
When planning the garden workdays it’s
important to pick a day(s) based on when
you think the most volunteers could
participate, and then publicize the event
widely. Get the word out to all neighbors,
community gardeners, anyone who at any
time expressed even a modicum of
interest, and to the general public. Recruit
volunteers from universities, high schools,
churches, County Cooperative Extensions
Offices (they have master gardeners who
have a number of volunteer hours for
community projects they must complete to
become certified), neighborhood council
groups, girl scouts, boy scouts, and any
other community groups you can think of.
Also, the Utah nonprofit, Information and
Referrals (a program of the Community
Services Council), may be a helpful
resource. Among other services they
recruit and refer volunteers and publicize
volunteer needs. Call them at 211 or 972-
3333. Their website is
www.informationandreferral.org. The
more volunteers are recruited, the faster
the tasks will be accomplished and the
more community interaction and cohesion.
Hopefully this will be the first of many
community gatherings that will occur in
the garden space.
Before breaking the ground it’s important
that the whereabouts of all water, gas, or
utility lines are known. This can be
determined (for residents of Utah) by
calling the non-profit Blue Stakes of Utah,
who will contact utility companies and
instruct them to mark-off their lines
according to a pre-established color-
coding scheme. It takes a week or so
before the land can be marked, so it’s a
good idea to call and schedule the
markings to occur before the date of the
workday. Blue Stakes of Utah can be
reached at 801-208-2100, or 1-800-662-
4111. It’s also a good idea to make sure
the water is hooked up and spouting by the
workday so when the garden has been
developed community gardeners can
immediately begin planting and seeing the
benefits of their planning efforts.
It’s helpful to establish one or more event
coordinators for the workday(s) to see that
the event runs smoothly, i.e. to coordinate
the materials and volunteers the day of the
event, and act as the contact person. The
event coordinators should be easily
identifiable, wearing some form of
insignia so that volunteers can find them
and be directed. Before the workday
begins, the event coordinator should refer
back to the layout map and plan made
during the garden planning stage. This
will keep the volunteers organized and
make sure that the garden develops
according to the decisions made during the
planning stages. The planning committee
may also want to contact and invite local
press to catch some positive publicity for
the community garden. In addition,
someone should be assigned the task of
taking pictures before, during, and after
the workdays to document the changes and
compare them with the garden later on in
the season.

During the workday, all the tools,
supplies, and input resources neede d for
preparing and developing the site must be
gathered at the site. Some of these items
are listed at the end of the section. Be sure
to ask volunteers to bring their own tools
if they are needed.
Once onsite, the first task is to clear the
site of garbage, rubble, and large rocks.
It’s also good to remove weeds before
tilling to avoid chopping and dispersing
weed roots and seeds. After it’s cleared
the lot should either be tilled all together,
or each individual plot should be
delineated with string and stakes (or
untreated wood for raised beds), and then
tilled individually. The latter option may
be more efficient as pathways and sitting
areas don’t need to be tilled. If the parcel
is covered with sod, remove the sod, then
go forward with the above task. Sod can
be removed by hand and shovel, or by a
sod cutter. If by hand, cut into the sod
with shovel to a depth of three inches, lift
up the edge of the sod, wedge a shovel
underneath, pry up the section and remove
it.
Compost and extra topsoil (if needed) can
be added before or after tilling. Either
way it’s more cost efficient to add these
materials to individual plots rather than
waste them on the paths and other areas
that will not be cultivated.
Once plots have been marked and tilled,
each one can be double -dug (mixing in
any compost or soil amendments if they
haven’t been already). This will aerate,
loosen and enriching the soil up to two
feet deep, and is thought to create the
optimal growing conditions. This is good
to do in addition to tilling because even
deep-tined tillers usually do not penetrate
deeper than a foot. However, some people
use broadforks instead of the double -
digging methods to avoid damaging soil
37
structure and disrupting the upper soil
layer that contains the most biological
activity. For more information about the
double -digging technique, see the
“Double -digging” handout included in this
booklet. For raised beds, the soil and
compost may be sufficiently loose, aerated
and mixed, simply by the act of filling
the m up, and therefore require no
additional preparation.
After each plot has been clearly marked,
tilled and double -dug, it’s time to layout
the waterlines and setup the timer (for drip
irrigation or sprinkler systems) or hook-up
the hoses. If no one in the group has
experience setting up irrigation systems,
find a local expert and ask them to donate
their expertise.
Once all the plots and paths have been
created, the remaining designated areas
should be established. These include
setting up the compost area, building or
assembling the shed or tool box, creating
the meeting spaces and shady spots,
building the fence, erecting the sign and
bulletin board, laying down woodchips or
mulch over the paths, and planting the
communal garden plots. With a sufficient
number of volunteers working these tasks
together, the community garden should be
completed in no more than a couple of
days. At this point the planning
committee may want to throw a grand
opening party to publicly acknowledge the
efforts of those involved in its creation,
and to celebrate the new asset of the
community. All volunteers, neighbors,
community gardeners, contributors of any
kind and the general public should be
invited. The press should be contacted to
gain some positive publicity. The party
could be in barbeque/potluck style with
music. During the event, every individual,
church, foundation or business that
contributed time, materials or funding
should be publicly acknowledged and
thanked.
 List of tools, supplies, and other resources for preparing and developing the garden
Tools:
*Long handled, Round-nosed Shovels, for general turning soil and compost
Short/D-handled, Square-nosed Digging Spade, for double -digging and sod removal
Rectangular Digging Spade, for digging straight-edged holes (for trees or larger
shrubs)
*Steel, Level-head or Bow Rakes, for smoothing and grading soil, incorporating
compost into the soil surface, and covering seeds
Garden Hoes, for weeding, cultivating soil, and making furrows to plant seeds into
*Hand Shovels and Trowels, for weeding, cultivating and planting seedlings in
prepared beds
Small Front-tine or larger, more powerful, Rear-tine Rotary Tillers, (depending on the
size of the area to be tilled and the hardness of the soil) for initial
preparation and aeration of beds, and working compost into soil
*Wheel-barrows, for moving soil/compost or if removing sod from the site
*Spading (Digging) Fork, for turning and aerating soil and compost, and digging for
root crops
Broadfork, (if needed) for loosening and aerating soil with minimal structural
disturbance to soil and soil organisms (sometimes used instead of the
double-digging method)
Mattock, (if needed) used if the soil is very hard
Sod Cutter, (if needed) for removing sod (manual or motorized), but you can use shovels
Loopers, for pruning small-diameter tree and shrub branches
Swivel Saw, for pruning back shrubs and trees
Supplies:
Gardening gloves
100+ ft. measuring tape
Building tools and supplies if building a fence, tool box/shed, raised beds, signs or
a bulletin board
Irrigation system supplies: timer, hoses, drip line, filter, sprinklers, etc. depending on
which type of irrigation system has been chosen.
Garbage bag for litter
String and stakes for delineating plots
Untreated wood for raised beds, lining the paths, etc.
Benches and tables
Other Resources:
Compost
Extra topsoil
Wood chips for the path
Mulching materials
Plants and trees that will occupy the communal spaces (If individual plot renters
have been assigned plot space by this time, they may wish to bring plants
or seeds and begin planting immediately)

(* indicates most essential tools)

 Organize the Gardeners
Once the groundwork has been laid, you will
have more people who are interested in being a
part of the garden. If you anticipate having room
in the garden for more people beyond the
Planning Committee, now is the time to recruit
more gardeners. Post flyers in your
neighborhood, make small presentations at local
churches and community centers, and always
communicate through word of mouth. Explain
what people need to do to be involved, how the
garden is laid out, any garden rules that have
been established, and how soon they can get
started. Below is a sample orientation outline to
help the Garden Coordinator acquaint new
gardeners with the garden.

Sample: Orientation Outline

All Community Gardeners are required to attend a garden orientation in their assigned garden before they
are assigned a specific plot. Returning gardeners are encouraged to attend Spring Orientations, but are not
required to do so. The Garden Steward can also help plan and should attend the meeting. The following
information should be used when planning spring orientations.

1. Preparation
A. In January, set the dates for Orientations
i. Each garden should have two options scheduled – Orientation and alternate Rain Date
ii. Try to schedule on a Tues., Wed. or Thurs. evening to catch those who work
iii. Schedule Spring Garden Cleanups on Saturdays soon after the orientation date
iv. Usually Orientations are scheduled at the end of March, beginning of April. This gives
gardeners enough time to work their plots before the May 1 deadline.
B. Notify gardeners of Orientation dates
i. Print the dates in the Spring Newsletter
ii. Print postcards and send to new and returning gardeners
iii. Do not tell people about the orientation until they have returned their registration form.
iv. Reminder phone calls might be helpful, but not required
C. Materials
i. Print any handouts you will need at least a week before the first Orientation
ii. Prepare drip irrigation demos
iii. Make sure that you have access to dry erase board and writing implements

2. Orientation
A. Orientation should take 30-45 minutes
i. Some gardeners will have more questions than others
ii. Be prepared to repeat items for latecomers
B. Use Gardener Information and Policies sheet as a guide for discussion topics
i. Remember to discuss rules for "subletting" garden plots (not on sheet)
ii. Be sensitive to group dynamics; maintain group attention
iii. Emphasize importance of community/working together
C. Goals
i. To discuss and familiarize gardeners with garden policies
ii. To emphasize drip irrigation protocol
iii. To emphasize appropriate planting practices
iv. To assign plots to new gardeners
v. To provide gardeners with an opportunity to get to know each other
D. Do a short garden tour
i. Tool bin
ii. Bulletin board or place to communicate
iii. Water source
iv. Compost pile(s)
v. Combination Lock
vi. Garden Layout
E. Assign plots to new gardeners
i. Gardeners must complete Orientation before receiving plot assignment
 Long-term Planning
At last the community garden is in full
operation. The gardeners are becoming
acquainted with their soil, neighbors are
chatting merrily under shady trees, children
are constructively playing in their youth
plots, squash plants are sinuously vining and
flowers blossoming prolifically. Now it’s
time to consider how to maintain the urban
paradise you’ve so laudably created. This is
the long-term planning stage, crucial for
sustaining the garden.
There are a number of
issues to consider
regarding the long-term
viability of a community
garden. How can you
ensure that the land will
remain available to your
gardeners over the long
run? One of the most
common threats to
community gardens is
land loss. The property
owner could decide to
develop the land, the
garden organization could
crumble due to a lack of
financial support, the land
could be rendered
unproductive due to
intensive unsustainable
gardening practices, the community
gardeners could loss interest, or a group of
neighbors or government official could
campaign against the garden leading to its
expulsion from the site. Although in some
instances the community garden will not be
able to avoid these challenges and must
relocated, a little foresighted planning can
go a long way.
The Land
When signing a lease for a particular
property, try to negotiate as lengthy a lease
as possible. Wasatch Community Gardens
recommends a minimum of 3 to 5 years, but
the longer the better. Some gardens have
been able to negotiate a 10, 20 and even a
99-year lease. In addition to lease length if
the property owner agrees, it’s a good idea
to include a clause outlining the lease
renewal procedure and an “option to buy”
clause in the lease. Organizing a fund
raising drive to buy the land is the surest
way to maintain the garden for perpetuity.
Again, maintaining active and solid public
support will aid in the success of such a
campaign. In the case that the property
owner is determined to develop the property,
it may be necessary for the garden to
relocate. However, because the garden
administration and gardeners
are already organized the
search for land should be
easier than the initial hunt.
Lastly, attention should be
given to the garden’s
ecological sustainability. For
example, growing heavy-
feeder crops such as corn on
the same plot of land without
adding organic matter,
rotating crops or planting
cover crops will eventually
deplete the soil. Periodically
adding compost, cover
cropping and rotating crops
will help the soil retain
adequate nutrient levels and
help prevent the proliferation
of soil born pests such as nematodes and
pathogens. Good stewardship and
cultivation practices will help community
gardens stay productive over the long run.
By predominantly using inputs grown and
prepared on site, a garden can come close to
achieving a self-reliance that will contribute
to its sustainability. (See “Introduction to
Sustainable Gardening Practices” section for
more on gardening sustainably).
Neighborhood Support
It’s essential that the community and
especially the direct neighbors of the garden
remain invested and in positive relation with
the garden. Maintaining strong community
contentment with the garden will assure
future support in case the garden becomes
endangered in the future for any of the
reasons mentioned above. This point has
been mentioned before but it can’t be
stressed enough. Furthermore, the larger
and more diverse the coalition of supporters,
the more successful and secure the garden
will be in the long run. (See the
“Challenges…” section to follow for more
on neighborhood support).
By working with city officials you may also
be able to have community gardening or
your particular garden included into
neighborhood city plans by means of
garden-friendly zoning ordinances or other
municipal community garden policies. Even
if no policy initiative is attempted, the
garden will be more secure simply by
maintaining good relations with government
officials and community leaders. (See
Policy References in the “Resources”
section).
Lastly, by actively recruiting new gardeners
and volunteers using the same methods
employed during the planning stages, the
garden will never have to worry about losing
community support. Most successful
gardens with have a waiting list for
interested gardeners or gardening groups
until plots become available.
Administrative and Organizational Issues
There are some administrative questions that
should be answered to prepare for changes
that may occur in the long-term. These
include: how will your organization make
amendments to the Rules & Regulations if
they are needed? How will new
Coordinators, Steward and Treasurer
positions be filled as individuals come and
go? And, how will they be trained once
they’re elected? (Revisit the “Job
Description” sections for more on these
topics).
As time passes the garden organization,
firmly rooted in the community, may wish to
expand their role. This may arise from the
41
internal desires of the organization, or in
reaction to changes in the community as
demographic turnover occurs. It’s a good
idea to keep up communication with the
community immediately surrounding the
garden to address their changing needs.
This will maintain the garden’s usefulness
and therefore the community’s support for
it. Some of the organization’s goals and
objective may entail offering more public
education programs, opening up additional
gardens, or offering new services to the
public. It’s helpful to stay cognizant of
long-term issues in the present to help steer
the organization in the desired direction.
Also, when expanding programs and
operations it is advisable to take manageable
steps to avoid overwhelming the
organization and triggering its collapse.
Such changes in direction might merit
updating the organizations official mission
statement.
Finances
As mentioned earlier, if your garden charges
a fee for plot rental, it is sometimes possible
to determine the rental fees so that they
cover the yearly cost of maintenance (for
water, repairs, etc.) Otherwise it will be
necessary to engage in fundraising
campaigns each year. See the earlier
“Fundraising” section for fundraising ideas.
The Treasurer should keep up a checking
account, and if possible, maintain a small
balance to help the organization in case
unforeseen costs arise.
Maintenance
Having a maintenance plan that assigns
necessary tasks and schedules community
garden workdays will help keep up a comely
appearance prevent weed infestations, and
keep the surrounding community satisfied.
(See Maintaining the Gardens Appearance
from the “Challenges…” section for more
on garden maintenance).
 Maintaining the Site and
Promoting Positive Community
Relations
Once the garden has been established and
plants begin to grow, don’t forget that it will
need continued attention throughout the
year. Weeds will be a problem the first
season. The best way to battle them is to pull
them out before they go to seed – this will
require communal effort. You may
experience vandalism. Be prepared with the
number of the graffiti hotline and get to
know the officer who patrols your
neighborhood. You will undoubtedly have
problems with your new water system.
Make sure that you retain good relations
with the person who helped install it. Be
sure to turn the water off before the ground
freezes, and don’t turn it on again until the
ground thaws. Don’t forget to have a harvest
party at the end of the season to thank
everyone for their hard work and to
celebrate the fruits of your labor.
Maintain community involvement by
attending community council meetings,
posting flyers in your neighborhood, making
presentations to youth groups, civic groups,
church groups. Always notify neighbors of
the garden of any changes you plan or any
events that will be taking place – they can be
your best allies.
Challenges Community Gardens
May Face
Lack of Community
After the first few seasons, interest may
plateau or even start declining without any
active outreach. This is when the
community garden (if not owned) may
become vulnerable to development or
collapse. There are a number of outreach
activities that can help sustain community
interest over the long run, such as holding
biannual garden festivals and offering public
classes on gardening techniques.
In addition, keep friendly terms with the
neighbors. Up-date them about the garden’s
status and any events held there—both to
invite them and to give them a heads up.
‘Enemies’ of Garden
It’s important to invite anyone and everyone
with any possible interest in the community
garden project to participate in the creation
of the garden from the beginning. People
that feel left out may develop an ultimatum
against the garden. Maintaining good
relations and communication with the
community, making lots of friends, and
keeping a good track record by dealing with
complaints quickly and respectfully are the
best ways to limit the number of ‘enemies’
of the garden. In the case that someone has
a determined and rigid hatred of the garden,
try understanding their concerns and invite
friendly dialogue. Avoid degenerating to
name calling. If their attack continues, your
history of good relations and solid
community support will serve as your best
protection.
Vandalism and Theft
It’s a good idea to be prepared for vandalism
and theft in a new community garden.
However, the problem tends to be an
exaggerated one that most gardens
experience only minimally. Fences are used
to deter vandals and keep stray dogs out.
Neighbors and gardeners are asked to keep
an eye out for strangers who may not be
respecting the garden property. Signs can be
posted requesting visitors to refrain from
picking community gardeners’ produce.
Also, by inviting the whole community to
participate in the garden early on, potential
troublemakers become positively involved
in the garden rather than causing problems.
Refer back to the “Neighborhood”
paragraph in the “Investigating Land
Options and Choosing a Site” section for
more information on how to avoid crime
related issues with good planning. Lastly,
including youth programs or plots in the
community garden will invite their positive
participation in the garden and give them a
sense of ownership. Neighborhood children
who have no relation to the garden may be
more likely to vandalize it.
Rule Enforcement and Conflict
Resolution
In general, good communication between
gardeners, the garden coordinator and
stewards, and the garden organization will
help avoid animosity in the garden. If ever a
conflict arises between any of these entities,
it’s helpful to have a fair system established
for resolving issues and for enforcing rules.
Gardens need not be governed by draconian
rules. However, in the rare case that
someone continues to violate the rules that
they agreed to obey when they applied,
immediate enforcement will demonstrate the
gravity and legitimacy of the rules. A
warning system for rule violations is a good
way to avoid problems getting out of hand.
This may all seem strict for a friendly
garden scene, but the rules and regulations
serve a purpose—to maintain a safe, clean,
beautiful and friendly environment for
community gardeners and the community at
large. Therefore, as community gardeners
are applying for garden plots, be sure to
communicate clearly the garden
organization’s expectations, and in turn, the
expectation that gardeners should have for
the organization. Everyone entering the
garden should know the garden rules. One
way to achieve this is to post them near the
garden entrances and by giving all
community gardeners copies of the rules as
they sign them. In addition, make sure
gardeners, neighbors, and garden stewards
have a way to voice their opinion and
influence the way the garden is run and
maintained. Giving everyone a voice will
channel differences of opinion towards
productive means of resolution.
Maintaining the Gardens Appearance
Maintaining a clean and attractive
appearance for a community garden is
essential for keeping the surrounding
community happy. Unkempt gardens elicit
complaints, create garden adversaries, and
generally diminish the quality of a
43
neighborhood. Good planning will help
maintain a beautiful and attractive garden.
One possibility is to assign highly visible
plots to experienced and dedicated gardeners
or to plant the border plots communally or
as well-kempt demonstration beds. Showy
ornamentals can be planted along the fence
lines. Evergreen species could be used to
maintain a green boarder during the winter
months. Having a nice sign for the garden,
keeping clean and sightly pathways, and
incorporating art into the garden are other
ways to help maintain a good appearance.
Perhaps the most essential aspect of keeping
the garden looking beautiful is establishing
and enforcing garden rules that determine
maximum weed height allowed, the dates
for indiv idual plot cleanup, as well as a
minimum number of hours each community
gardener must contribute to maintaining
communal areas.
It’s helpful if the garden steward lives
within close proximity to the community
garden, and if possible, if the community
gardeners do as well. The closer the steward
and gardeners are to the garden, the more
they will use it and care for it. Those who
don’t live within walking distance are likely
to visit the garden less often and, therefore,
more likely to neglect their plots.
Lastly, if a composting site will be included
into the garden plan, make sure the design of
the compost bins keep rodents away, or
prohibit the disposal of food waste into the
piles.
 Resource Guide for Starting a Community Gardening
Books/Articles/Websites on Community Gardening:
Community Gardening Guides
A Handbook of Community Gardening, by Boston Urban Gardeners, edited by Susan Naimark Published in 1982
Creating Community Gardens, by Dorothy Johnson, Executive Director, & Rick Bonlender, MN Green Coordinator,
Minnesota State Horticultural Society Minnesota State Horticultural Society, 1970, Charles Scribner's Sons,
New York
Cultivating Community: Principles and Practices for Community Gardening As a Community-Building Tool, by Karen
Payne and Deborah Fryman
“Starting a Community Garden,” American Community Garden Association (ACGA),
http://www.communitygarden.org/pubs/starting.html
“Community Garden Start-up Guide,” University of California Cooperative Extension in Los Angeles,
http://celosangeles.ucdavis.edu/garden/articles/startup_guide.html

Fundraising
“How to: Fund Raising,” by Gary Goosman, in Community Greening Review 1998, ACGA
The Complete Book of Fund-Raising Writing, Don Fey, The Morris-Lee Publishing Group, 1995
The Complete Book of Model Fund-Raising Letters, Roland Kuniholm, Prentice Hall, 1995
(See Local section for local assistance in becoming a nonprofit)

Community Garden Policy, Municipal Programs

“Community Development through Gardening: State and Local Policies Transforming Urban Open Space”, by Jane E.
Schukoske. A PDF file that can be downloaded from NYU website.
“Comprehensive Plans, Zoning Regulations, Open Space Policies and Goals Concerning Community Gardens
and Open Green Space from the Cities of Seattle, Berkeley, Boston, and Chicago” Information compiled by
ACGA Member Lenny Librizzi for the GreenThumb Grow Together Workshop “Lessons From Community
Gardening Programs In Other Cities” given March 20, 1999. www.communitygarden.org/links/cg_policies.pdf
“ N a t i o n a l C o m m u n i t y G a r d e n S u r v e y 1 9 9 6 ,” ACGA Monograph by Suzanne Monroe-Santos,
http://www.communitygarden.org/pubs/Monograph1.pdf
“Making Policy in a Crowded World: Steps Beyond the Physical Garden,” by Pamela R.
Kirschbaum, in Community Greening Review, ACGA 2000

General Gardening Resources:

How to Grow More Vegetables, John Jeavons, Ten Speed Press, 1995
Four-Season Harvest, Eliot Coleman, Chelsea Green Publishing Co., 1999
Rodale’s All-New Encyclopedia of Organic Gardening, Barbara W. Ellis (ed.), Rodale Press, 1992
Encyclopedia of Organic Gardening, J. I. Rodale, Rodale Press, 2000
Step by Step Organic Vegetable Gardening, Shepherd Ogden, Harper Perennial, 1994

Companion Planting
Carrots Love Tomatoes, Louise Riotte, Storey Books, 1998
Great Garden Companions, Sally Jean Cunningham, Rodale Press

Pest Control
Rodale's Color Handbook of Garden Insects, Anna Carr, Rodale Press, 1979
Rodale's Successful Organic Gardening Controlling Pests and Diseases, Michalak & Gilkeson, Rodale Press, 1994
The Organic Gardener’s Handbook of Natural Pest and Disease Control, Barbara Ellis, Rodale Press, 1996
Bugs, Slugs, and Other Thugs, Rhonda Massingham Hart, Storey Books, 1991
Dead Snails Leave No Trails, Loren Nancarrow and Janet Hogan Taylor, Ten Speed Press, Berkeley, CA 1996
Good Bugs for Your Garden, Allison Mia Starcher, Algonquin Books, 1995
1,001 Old-Time Garden Tips, Roger B. Yepson, Rodale Press, 1998

Edible Landscaping
Designing and Maintaining Your Edible Landscape Naturally , Robert Kourik (out of print)

Gardening and the Environment

The One Straw Revolution, Masanobu Fukuoka (out of print)
Introduction to Permaculture, Bill C. Mollison, Ten Speed Press, 1997
44
Gardening for the Future of the Earth, Howard-Yana Shapiro/John Harrison, Bantam Doubleday Dell Publishing, 2000

Lead in Soil
http://ohioline.osu.edu/hyg-fact/1000/1149.html

Composting
The Rodale Book of Composting: Easy Methods for Every Gardener, Martin &Gershuny, eds., Rodale Press, 1992

Vermiculture
Worms Eat My Garbage, Mary Appelhof, Flower Press 1982 Kalamazoo, Michigan

Periodicals:
Organic Gardening , Rodale Press, http://www.organicgardening.com
Mother Earth News , Ogden Publications, http://www.motherearthnews.com

Tool Catalogs:
Lee Valley Tools (800) 871-8158
PO Box 1780 Ogdensburg, NY 13669-6780
http://www.leevalley.com

Seed Catalogs:
Bountiful Gardens
18001 Shafer Ranch Road Willits, CA 95490
http://www.bountifulgardens.org

The Cooks’Garden (800) 457-9703

PO Box 535 Londonderry, VT 05148
http://www.cooksgarden.com

High Country Gardens (800)925-9387

2902 Rufina Street Santa Fe, NM 87507-2929
http://www.highcountrygardens.com

Johnny’s Seeds (207) 437-4301

184 Foss Hill Road Albion, ME 04910-9731
http://www.johnnyseeds.com

Peaceful Valley Farm Supply (888) 784-1722

PO Box 2209 Grass Valley, CA 95945
http://www.groworganic.com

Seed Savers Exchange (563) 382-5990

3076 North Winn Road Decorah, Iowa 52101
http://www.seedsavers.org

Seeds of Change (888)-762-7333

PO Box 15700 Santa Fe, NM 87592-1500
http://seedsofchange.com

Shepherd’s Garden Seeds (860) 482-3638

30 Irene Street Torrington, CT 06790-6658
http://www.shepherdseeds.com

Tomato Growers Supply Company

(888) 478-7333
PO 2237 Fort Meyers, FL 33902
http://www.tomatogrowers.com
Local Resources:
Compost
Ranui Live Compost City Landfill (California Ave./~6000 West) 974-6900
(435) 336-2813 For compost, mulch, wood chips

45
Straw
AA Callister 973-7058 Layton Farm and Home 544-5944
3615 South Redwood Road 164 S Main Layton 84041-3725

Ball Feed and Horse Supply 255-2621 Intermountain Farmer’s Association

7500 South 700 West Midvale
Drip Irrigation
Trickle Irrigation (Sherm Fox)
Sprinkler World
1147 West 2100 South SLC 972-3009
1045 East 12400 South Draper 571-0125
4267 S Camille-2500E, Holliday 272-2354
8451 S Sandy Parkway, Sandy 562-4575

Tools, Etc…
Western Garden 364-7871 Home Depot 467-3900
550 South 600 East 300 West 2100 South

Gard’n Wise 936-0940 Steve Regan 268-4500

360 North 700 West Ste. A 4215 S 500 W
(in NSL)

Harbor Freight 484-9556 Burton Lumber 487-8861

3470 South State 2220 South State

Sutherland’s 538-0000
1780 West North Temple

Soil Testing
USU Analytical Labs (435) 797-2217
Ag Science Rm 166
Logan, UT 84322-4830

Horticultural Specialists
Utah Extensions Service
Salt Lake County: 2001 South State Street #1200 Salt Lake City 801-468-3170
Davis County: 28 East State Street PO Box 618 Farmington 801-451-3403
Utah County: 51 South University Avenue #206 Provo 801-370-8460
Wasatch Community Gardens
400 South 345 East, SLC UT 801-359-2658

Utah Fundraising, Incorporating, Legal Assistance

Utah Nonprofits Association 260 S. Central Campus Drive, Room 214 Telephone: (801) 581-4883
Salt Lake City, UT 84112-915

State of Utah Dept. of Commerce 160 East 300 South Main Floor, SLC (Walk-In)
Information Center: (801) 530-4849 (877) 526-6438
www.commerce.utah.gov

Internal Revenues Service Tax Questions: 1-800-829-1040

Tax Forms: 1-800-829-3676

Utah State Bar 645 South 245 East

SLC, UT
531-9077

46
Web Sites:
Wasatch Community Gardens www.wasatchgardens.org
Garden Guides www.gardenguides.com
Garden Gate garden-gate.prairienet.org
Garden Web www.gardenweb.com
Cooks’ Garden www.cooksgarden.com
Organic Kitchen www.organickitchen.com
World Leader www.worldleader.com/garden
Backyard Gardener www.backyardgardener.com
Seeds Blum www.seedsblum.com
Garden Forever www.gardenforever.com
ACGA www.communitygarden.org/index.html
Biodynamic Gardening www.biodynamic.net
Gardening www.life.ca/subject/gardening.html
Urban Harvest www.jumpnet.com/~arjun/UrbanHarvest
CSA info www.csacenter.org
Garden Net www.gardennet.com
National Gardening Assoc. www.garden.org/

____________________________________________________________________________________________________________
Sources
A Handbook of Community Gardening, by Boston Urban Gardeners, Susan Naimark ed., Charles
Scribner’s Sons, 1982
“Can Agriculture and Biodiversity Coexist?,” by Catherine Badgley, in Fatal Harvest, Kimbrell
ed., Island Press, 2002
“Community Garden Start-up Guide,” University of California Cooperative Extension in Los
Angeles, http://celosangeles.ucdavis.edu/garden/articles/startup_guide.html
Coming Home to Eat, by Gary Paul Nabham, W.W. Norton & Company, 2002
Creating Community Gardens, by Dorothy Johnson, Executive Director, & Rick Bonlender, MN
State Horticultural Society, 1992
Cultivating Co mmunity: Principles and Practices for Community Gardening As a Community-
BuildingTool, by Karen Payne and Deborah Fryman, American Community Gardening
Association, 2001
Encyclopedia of Organic Gardening, J. I. Rodale, Rodale Press, 2000
Four-Season Harvest, Eliot Coleman, Chelsea Green Publishing Co., 1999
“How to: Fund Raising,” by Gary Goosman, in Community Greening Review, American
Community Gardening Association, 1998
How to Grow More Vegetables, John Jeavons, Ten Speed Press, 1995
Internal Revenues Service
Rodale’s All-New Encyclopedia of Organic Gardening, Barbara W. Ellis (ed.), Rodale Press,
1992
“Starting a Community Garden,” American Community Garden Association,
http://www.communitygarden.org/pubs/starting.html
State of Utah Dept. of Commerce, www.commerce.utah.gov
The Complete Book of Fund-Raising Writing, Don Fey, The Morris -Lee Publishing Group, 1995
The Complete Book of Model Fund-Raising Letters, Roland Kuniholm, Prentice Hall, 1995
The Garden Primer, Barbara Damrosch, Workman Publishing, 1988
The New Organic Grower, Eliot Coleman, Chelsea Green Publishing CO, 1995

To obtain copies of this handbook contact us:

Wasatch Community Gardens
P.O. Box 2924
Salt Lake City, UT 84110-2926
801-359-2658

47
 Appendix
Organic Gardening
Compose by Wasatch Community Gardens Staff or as Sited

Appendix Table of Contents

Introduction to Sustainable Gardening Practices

Composting
Cover Cropping
B asic Companion Chart For Vegetables & Herbs
Double-Digging
Container Gardening
Hardening Off & Transplanting
Heirloom Vegetables: An Old Story with Hope For the Future
How do I Save Seeds?
Organic Pest Management
Water Conservation
Trellising

48
 Introduction to Sustainable Gardening Practices
"We 'farm' as we eat. For example, if we consume food that has been grown using methods that
inadvertently deplete the soil in the growing process, then we are responsible for depleting the
soil. If, instead, we raise or request food grown in ways that heal the Earth, then we are healing
the Earth and its soils. Our daily food choices will make the difference. We can choose to sustain
ourselves while increasing the vitality of the planet." John Jeavons, How to Grow More
Vegetables

The goal of gardening sustainably is to maintain a healthy environment, community, and

economy while providing nutritious food. It is a “whole system” growing method. This means
that all of its components—composting, companion planting, cover cropping, intensive planting,
double digging, and water conservation—must be used together for the best results.

Five Components of Sustainable Gardening Practices

1. Composting
Composting is the keystone to a successful sustainable garden. Creating compost piles is one of
the best investments you can make in your garden. As the soil's health improves, plants are more
healthy and you will grow more food. Rather than sending your garden wastes to the landfill and
spending upwards of $50 a year on fertilizers, your compost pile allows you to invest your
precious plant materials to produce nature’s finest fertilizer. Compost will:
• Add organic matter naturally
• Prevent plant and soil diseases
• Correct sandy or clay soil structure
• Make a great mulch or top dressing
• Provide a variety of nutrients when plants need them
• Aerate soil
• Improve drainage
• Prevent erosion
• Neutralize toxins
• Recycle garden wastes

2. Companion Planting and Interplanting

Companion plants are ones that produce better yields and healthier plants when they grow near
each other. Interplanting is the practice of sewing 2 or more varieties of plants together (e.g.
beans using corn as a living trellis). Some plants are useful in repelling pests, while others attract
beneficial insect life. Borage, for example, helps control tomato worms while its blue flowers
attract bees. Many wild plants have a healthy effect on the soil; their deep roots loosen the
subsoil and bring up previously unavailable trace minerals and nutrients. And there seems to be
no obvious reason why some plants would be companions, like carrots and tomatoes. Companion
planting charts are available on the web and from Wasatch Community Gardens.

3. Cover Cropping
Cover crops are any type of planting that covers your soil when it is not being used for active
production. Favorite cover crops are ones that produce a good amount of dry matter for the
compost bin (rye, wheat, sudangrass) and ones that “fix” nitrogen from the air to the soil, called
legumes (peas, vetch, clover). Cover crops should be harvested and composted to add organic
matter and nutrients to your soil. Although cover cropping has traditionally been used by farmers

49
for maintaining healthy soil, many home and urban gardeners are using the same techniques on a
smaller scale. Using cover crops can:
• Protect soil in winter months
• Attract beneficial insects
• Break up clay or hardpan
• Increase nutrients in your soil
• Conserve soil moisture
• Suppress weeds
• Cover & protect unused areas
• Prevent erosion by wind and rain
• Increase organic matter in your soil
• Recycle garden nutrients

4. Intensive Planting in Double-dug Beds

By spacing plants closely together, the home gardener can create a "living mulch" or mini-climate to protect and
enrich the soil. Seeds or seedlings are planted in 3- to 5-foot wide beds using a hexagonal spacing pattern. Each
plant is placed the same distance from all seeds nearest to it so that when the plants mature, their leaves barely
touch. This provides a "mini-climate" under the leaves that retains moisture, protects the valuable microbiotic life of
the soil, retards weed growth, and provides for high yields. Why not just mulch the soil around plants? Because the
carbon wasted in the mulch you would use could have been recycled in the compost pile to enrich your soil in the
future, and if you buy mulch, then you’re simply depleting someone else’s soil. Remember that there is only so
much farmable land in the world to feed the millions of inhabitants, even though the U.S. seems to have more than
enough.

Double digging is a method of preparing the soil that loosens and enriches 24 inches of soil—allowing plant roots to
fully explore the fertile soil and produce healthy, productive crops. This digging method is easily learned from staff
at Wasatch Community Gardens. Even though it may take a few hours to fully prepare a garden bed, the plant health
benefits and lack of needing to weed with closely spaced crops more than make up for the up-front work.

5. Water Cons ervation

Paying attention to the amount of water we use in our homes and landscapes is important for the health of our
communities and our gardens. Utah is the second driest state in the nation. It is surprising to know that our per capita
water consumption levels are 290 gallons/day/person - the second highest in the nation, and far above the national
average of 180 gallons/day/person. One of the best ways to reduce water consumption is to reduce your need for
water. Intensive planting with closely spaced plants creates a microclimate above the soil that keeps soil from drying
out as quickly. Cover crops also keep organic matter in the soil, which increases the soil’s capacity to hold water.
Bare soil is the #1 enemy to water conservation. Wasatch Community Gardens uses drip irrigation that slowly
applies water at the base of the plant (where it's needed the most), over a longer period of time. Drip irrigation
allows us to water deeply without wasting water. Water that is sprayed overhead with a hose or sprinkler risks being
lost to evaporation when done at inappropriate times of the day. A great time to water is after 6pm or before 8am.
Another way to conserve water is to choose plants that need less water or that have become acclimatized to our dry
Utah conditions. Saving seeds from your best varieties of vegetables is a way to create your own store of vegetables
that slowly adapt to our conditions.

Resources:
Wasatch Community Gardens’ handouts on composting, double digging, intensive planting, companion planting,
cover cropping, and water conservation
How to Grow More Vegetables..., John Jeavons

50
 Composting
"Composting is a giant step toward recycling wastes, conserving precious energy reserves, and
regaining control of our food supplies.” ~ Rodale Book of Composting

Why compost?
Creating a compost pile is one of the best investments you can make in your garden. Composting is the keystone to a
successful, sustainable organic garden. Rather than sending your garden wastes to the landfill and spending upwards
of $50 a year on fertilizers, your compost pile allows you to invest your precious plant materials to produce nature’s
finest fertilizer. Compost will:
• Add organic matter naturally • Aerate soil
• Prevent plant and soil diseases • Improve Drainage
• Correct sandy or clay soil structure • Prevent erosion
• Make a great mulch or top dressing • Neutralize toxins
• Provide a variety of nutrients when plants need • Recycle garden wastes
them

Building a Pile
As our favorite bumper sticker says, “Compost Happens.” If you put organic material in a pile, it will eventually
break down to composted matter. However, there are many ways to control this magical process through the size
and shape of the pile and the various materials added to it. You can have a “cold pile” that you add materials, such
as kitchen scraps, on an ongoing basis. This pile will compost rather slowly (1-2 years). The faster route requires the
creation of a “hot pile”, which should reach temperatures of 140° F. This pile is created with all the materials it will
need, so by adding water and turning it regularly, you can help this pile finish composting within 6-8 months. All
healthy compost piles require the following:
• Browns - "Browns" are dry materials such as leaves or straw that provide carbon. Browns should compose
roughly one-quarter of your pile.
• Greens - "Greens" are green materials such as grass or weeds from your garden that provide nitrogen. Greens
should compose roughly one-half of your pile.
• Soil - Adding soil brings organisms that decompose (this is particularly important for piles that are on concrete
or in containers off the ground) and provides a structure for the finished product. Soil should compose
roughly one-quarter of your pile (less for heavy clay soil).
• Water - The organisms in your pile need a moist environment to live in, especially in our desert climate. The
inside of your pile should have the consistency of a wrung-out sponge.
• Air - Turning your pile adds air to the mix. Organisms in the pile need a source of oxygen if they are going to
thrive.
There are a few different ways to shape your
composting process. A gardener’s choice of
composting method should be convenient and
reflect personal preference and aesthetics.
Large farming operations often choose to
create windrows, which are long, worm-
shaped piles which are ideal for machinery.
Home gardeners may opt for composting
underground through sheet-composting,
where plant material is buried under soil for a
few months. A typical compost pile should be
about 3 feet high and 3 feet wide. This pile
can be contained in a bin made of wood or
plastic. Some people even use wire cages.
Before creating a pile, loosen the soil where
you intend to build it. Then layer a few sticks or more woody material for the base level of the pile. This improves
drainage and creates an open invitation for decomposers to start working!
Compost Organisms

51
Many different kinds of organisms work together to make compost happen. The types of decomposers you find within your pile will
vary according to its stage of decomposition. These stages may be measured by temperature. Below 55° F, most microbes will be
dormant. The microbes existing between 55-70° F are called psychrophiles, which burn carbon and raise the temperature of the pile,
making way for mesophiles, which thrive at temperatures of 70-90° F. Mesophiles are the “work horses” of the pile, consuming
everything in sight which raises the temperature of the pile to over 100° F. Between 90-200° F thermophiles take over, producing
humic acid which improves soil structure, raises temperatures, and brings the pile to a finished state.

Microscopic Decomposers: Bacteria Actinomycetes Protozoa Fungi

Physical Decomposers: Mites Milipedes Centipedes Sow Bugs

Spiders Springtails Beetles Ants
Nematodes Flatworms Rotifers Earthworms
Snails/Slugs Flies
Composting tips
• A moist pile is crucial for composting in Utah – water may be needed daily in hot weather.
• The finished product, called humus (HUE-mis), is a dark, rich soil that is cake -like when you pick it up in your hands. Some
studies suggest that uncured or partially-cured compost (3-9 weeks old) is not nearly as helpful for soil as fully cured
compost.
• The more often you turn your pile, the faster it will produce finished compost.
• A compost pile should not smell bad. If your pile smells, it is probably too wet or the carbon:nitrogen ratio is off. The
carbon:nitrogen ratio should be anywhere from 25:1 to 40:1
• Before starting a pile, dig up the soil where your pile will be (to welcome organisms to the pile), and lay down thick materials
such as sunflower stalks or sticks to encourage good aeration.
• Don't add weeds such as bindweed or others that have gone to seed unless your pile is hot enough to sterilize the seeds (140° F)
• While most manures are a great source of nitrogen for your pile, don't add wastes from carnivorous animals (cats, dogs, humans),
because they may contain harmful bacteria. *If you want to use manure in WCG gardens, please contact our staff first.
• If you are composting at Wasatch Community Gardens, you may not add kitchen scraps. If you compost at home, do not use
meat, dairy, or oily foods. Food wastes can attract rodents and should be deposited in closed composting containers.

Vermicomposting
If you do not have space to create a compost pile outside, don’t worry! You can compost indoors using red wiggler worms (eisenia
foetida). All you need is a lidded container with holes drilled in the top and sides for proper aeration. It is also recommended that you
drill holes in the bottom for drainage. The worms will require bedding (such as newspaper), and food from your kitchen. Remember to
avoid meat, dairy, bread products, oily and citrus foods. The resulting compost is great for house plants!

Resources
Ranui Live Compost (435) 336-2813 Available at many local garden centers and Wild Oats
Organic Gardening Magazine. Available at your local library branch
The Rodale Book of Composting: Easy Methods for Every Gardener, Martin & Gershuny, eds,
Rodale Press 1992 Emmaus, Pennsylvania
Worms East My Garbage, Mary Appelhof, Flower Press 1982 Kalamazoo, Michigan
Home Composting Made Easy, C. Forrest McDowell & Tricia Clark-McDowell, 1998
*Illustration reproduced from How to Grow More Vegetables, by John Jeavons, 10 Speed
Press, Berkeley, CA, 1995 5th Edition (pg. 35)
 Cover Cropping
Why use cover crops?

Have you been looking for ways to improve your soil's fertility and tilth? How about methods for suppressing weeds or
retaining moisture? What about attracting those elusive beneficial insects? Your solutions may be found in cover cropping
- a time-tested method for managing healthy gardens. Using cover crops can:

Protect soil in winter months Suppress weeds

Attract beneficial insects Cover & protect unused areas
Break up clay or hardpan Prevent erosion by wind and rain
Increase nutrients in your soil Increase organic matter in your soil
Conserve soil moisture Recycle garden nutrients

What is a cover crop?

Also referred to by some experts as ‘green manures,’ cover crops are any type of planting that covers your soil when it is
not being used for active production. Cover crops can be tilled under or harvested and composted to add organic matter
and nutrients to your soil. Although cover cropping has traditionally been used by farmers for maintaining healthy soil,
many home and urban gardeners are using the same techniques on a smaller scale. A good gardener recognizes that
successful gardening is dependant on the soil. Many amendments may be employed to improve soil tilth and fertility,
including compost, leaves, manure or grass clippings. Using cover crops is also an excellent option for soil improvement
because other amendments may difficult to come by, and you can produce cover crops on your own space. When properly
incorporated with your yearly garden plan, cover crops provide the added benefits of conserving moisture, increasing life
in the soil, and even attracting beneficial insects to your garden.

Using the right cover crop

Although at first it may seem challenging to understand all of the different kinds of cover crops and their benefits, the
beauty of using cover crops is that you can select just the right plant for your soil, climate, and long-term plans. By
learning about the benefits and cultural requirements of each crop, you will be able to make an informed decision for you
and your garden. Cover crops can be divided into three main categories:

• Legumes – Legumes are a favorite cover crop because they fix nitrogen in your soil. Some legumes have large
taproots that go deep into the soil and ‘mine’ nutrients from below. The legume family includes: clovers, vetch,
alfalfa, fava beans, Austrian winter peas, medic, and soybeans. Legumes tend to do better in cooler climates, and
are suited to spring and fall plantings.

• Cereals – Cereal plants are usually quick-growing. They make great green manures because they are easily harvested
and composted, or tilled under, providing a great source for nitrogen and organic matter. Cereals include: annual
rye, wheat, oats, ryegrass, barley, sorghum and sudangrass.

• Broadleaf Plants – Broadleaf plants include: buckwheat, rape, mustard, turnips, daikon radish, and oilseed radish.
These plants tend to shade out competitive weeds. Buckwheat is very fast growing and comes right up in hot
weather. The brassicas (rape, mustard, turnip/radish) tend to have taproots that can break up hardpan in the soil,
and bring up previously untapped nutrients from deeper soils.

*Please refer to the resources below for detailed information about each crop.

Cover cropping tips

• Some crops may be used for ‘undersowing’ or interplanting. This allows you to plant a living mulch while your
vegetables are growing. About 2 weeks after planting your primary crop, just sprinkle low-growing covers (like
white clover) at the base of your planting to conserve moisture add nitrogen, and improve the soil structure.
• Most cover crops can be ‘broadcasted’ or spread evenly over the space that you have set designated. It helps to
massage the seeds into your soil after you have prepared the bed for planting.

53
• Remember that it takes 2-3 weeks for a cover crop that has been tilled in to decompose. Resist the urge to plant
during this period, as the decomposition process can inhibit seed germination and root growth.
• If you are planting a crop in the fall winter soil protection, you will need to plant your seeds about 30 days before the
first frost date.
• Using a seed mix with a combination of good covers may be a good option if you are interested in seeing which crop
works best for your needs.
• Some cover crops can spread to other parts of your garden. If you are concerned about this, remember to select an
annual crop that winterkills, or a plant like vetch, that you don’t mind popping up uninvited!
• By cutting down cover crops before they become mature or woody, you will be saving yourself a lot of effort when
tilling or harvesting the plants.

Inoculants
When you ‘inoculate’ legume seeds, you are treating them in a powdery medium that contains rhizobia, a bacteria that has
a symbiotic relationship with legume roots. When rhizobial bacteria are present, they provide access to nitrogen from the
air. This nitrogen is stored in nodules on the roots of legumes. In return, the bacteria receive nutrition from the roots.
Gardeners are often encouraged to use an inoculant when planting legumes because it increases the amount of nitrogen
that becomes available to the soil after the plant dies. There are specific inoculants for specific legumes, so be sure to
consult the seed source to make sure that you are using just the right one for your crop.

Resources
Sustainable Agriculture Cover Crop Database: http://www.sarep.ucdavis.edu/ccrop/
Cover Crops for Home Gardens in Western Washington and Oregon (EB1824), Washington State University Cooperative Extension,
1997
Cover Crop Fundamentals (AGF-142-99), Alan Sundermeier, Ohio State University, 1999
Fall Garden Cover Crops, Charlie Nardozzi, Gardener’s Supply Company, 1997
Green Manure, Rodale’s All-New Encyclopedia of Organic Gardening, pp. 293-295, Rodale Press 1997
The Garden Primer, Barbara Damrosch, Workman Press 1988, New York, New York
Four-Season Harvest, Eliot Coleman, Chelsea Green Publishing, 1992 White River Junction, Vermont
Managing Cover Crops Profitably, Sustainable Agriculture Network, 1998, Beltsville, Maryland

54
 BASIC COMPANION CHART FOR VEGETABLES & HERBS
Bad
Plant Good Companions
Companions
Basil Pepper, Tomato, Marigold
Beets, Cabbage, Carrots, Celery, Corn,
Bush Beans Cucumbers, Eggplant, Lettuce, Pea, Radish, Onion
Strawberry, Savory, Tansy, Marigold
Carrots, Corn Cucumber, Eggplant, Lettuce, Pea,
Pole Beans Beets, Onion
Radish, Savory, Tansy
Beets Bush Beans, Cabbage, Onion, Sage
Bush Beans, Beets, Celery, Onions, Tomato, All
Cabbage Family Strawberry
Strong Herbs, Marigold, Nasturtium
Bush Beans, Pole Beans, Lettuce, Onion, Peas,
Carrots Dill
Radish, Tomato, Sage
Celery Bush Beans, Cabbage, Onion, Spinach, Tomato
Bush Beans, Pole Beans, Cucumber, Melons, Peas,
Corn Tomato
Squash
Bush Beans, Pole Beans, Corn, Lettuce, Onions,
Cucumbers No Strong Herbs
Peas, Radish, Marigold, Nasturtium, Savory
Eggplant Bush Beans, Pole Beans, Spinach
Bush Beans, Pole Beans, Carrots, Cucumbers,
Lettuce
Onion, Radish, Strawberries
Melons Corn, Nasturtium, Radish
Beets, Cabbage, Carrots, Celery, Cucumber,
Bush Beans, Pole
Onion Lettuce, Pepper, Squash, Strawberries, Tomato,
Beans, Peas
Savory
Parsley Tomato
Bush Beans, Pole Beans, Carrots, Corn Cucumber,
Peas Onion
Radish, Turnips
Pepper Onion
Bush Beans, Pole Beans, Carrots, Cucumber,
Radish Hyssop
Lettuce, Melons, Peas, Squash
Spinach Celery, Eggplant, Cauliflower
Squash Corn, Onion, Radish
Strawberry Bush Beans, Lettuce, Onion, Spinach Cabbage
Tomato Cabbage, Carrots, Celery, Onion, Mint Corn, Fennel
Source: © GardenGuides, 2000
(gardener@interpath.com)

55
 Double Digging: Soil and Biceps Improvement

What is Double Digging Anyway?

Double digging is not a motivating concept. That's what machine cultivators are for, after all--to save gardeners
from a sore back and bleeding blisters. Paradoxically, repeated machine cultivation can cause the situations that
warrant double digging.

The reasons for, and the definition of, double digging are widely misunderstood. Double digging is not doing
the same task twice; it is the equivalent of deep tilling or subsoil plowing. To double dig is to remove a layer of
topsoil to "spade depth"--8 in. to 12 in., roughly the length of a spade's blade--and set it aside. Then, the next 8-
in. to 12- in. layer of soil, the subsoil, is loosened, aerated, and often augmented by compost, aged manure, leaf
mold, or peat moss. Organic matter improves the drainage of heavy clay soils and helps light sandy soils hold
moisture longer. Finally, the top layer is put back in place.

Why Put Myself Through Grief?

The reasons for double digging are twofold: to relieve subsoil compaction and to refurbish the topsoil. Soil
particles in compacted subsoil, also known as hardpan, are tightly packed, with few air pockets. What causes
compaction can be either a naturally occurring layer of clay and silt, or repeated use of machinery such as
shallow tillers or construction equipment that compresses the soil underneath. Plant roots and moisture can't
penetrate hardpan; poorly draining water and stunted plant growth are the result. Double digging mitigates these
problems by breaking up the hardpan and improving root penetration and drainage. Plants grow best in soil that
has been loosened before planting to allow ready penetration of the two things roots need most: oxygen and
water.

Heavily and frequently cultivated topsoil not only leads to compaction but also tends to lose its mineral and
nutritive value over time, as soil particles give up their stored minerals to plant growth. Occasionally, it is
necessary to replace the soil particles in the topsoil with fresh soil from underneath. Double digging brings
deep soil particles closer to the surface where plants' feeder roots can reach them.

Resources:
http://www.finegardening.com/kg/features/techniques/9digging.htm
How to Grow More Vegetables…, John Jeavons

56
 Container Gardening
Tips:
If you plant in clay pots you will need to water more often
South facing windows or balconies are best for sunlight
Drainage is important – add rocks to bottom of no-hole pots
Combat pests with soap sprays – take pots outside
Treat wood containers with non-toxic linseed oil

Plant List:
Herbs Veggies Flowers
Chives Tomatoes Nasturtiums

Thyme Peppers Clematis

Parsley/Cilantro Mustard/Arugula/Mizuna Orchids
Basil Lettuce Mesclun Mix Lavender
Oregano Beets/Chard/Radishes Bulbs (Tulips…)
Dill Peas Roses
Fennel Pole Beans Alyssum/Lobelia
Sage Carrots Pansies
Rosemary Spinach Potato Vine
Mint Strawberries Sedum

Supplies:
Containers (get creative! use what’s around you!)
Organic Potting Soil & Compost (Ranui Gardens)
Spray Bottle and Watering Can
Dr. Bronner’s Peppermint Soap for Pests
Working Space – use newspaper/old sheet/plastic

Resources:
The Edible Container Garden: Growing Fresh Food in Small Spaces, Michael Guerra, Fireside Books
Bountiful Container: A Container Garden of Vegetables, Herbs, Fruits & Edible Flowers, McGee & Stuckey, Workman Pub.
The Container Kitchen Garden, Anthony Atha, Sterling Pub. 2000
Gardening Without a Garden, Gay Search, DK Pub. 1997
The Complete Guide to Container Gardening, Stephanie Donaldson

57
 Hardening Off & Transplanting
Why Harden Off Your Plants?
Transplanting seedling from the greenhouse or windowsill to the garden can put them through a lot of stress.
Direct sunlight, wind and extreme temperatures can shock and damage tender seedling grown indoors. The
more you can do to ease this stress the sooner the seedlings will recover from the transplant shock, toughen and
begin to grow into healthy plants.

When to Plant Seedlings into the Garden

Cool weather crops have natural tolerances to cold temperatures and can be planted in early spring or late-
summer/early fall to grow in the fall and winter. They include: Beets, Broccoli, cabbage, cauliflower, peas,
lettuces, onions, radishes, and spinach. Many cool weather plants will bolt as the days get longer and the
temperature hotter.

Warm weather crop should be planted after the last frost when the soil begins to warm up in late spring/early
summer. They include: melons, carrots, chard, corn, cucumbers, peppers, potatoes, pumpkins, beans, squash,
tomatoes, and eggplants.

Most vegetable varieties can be started in a greenhouse, though many (both cool and warm season crop) are
commonly sown directly into the soil. In Utah tomatoes, peppers, eggplants, brassicas (broccoli, kale, cabbage,
cauliflower, etc.) some squash, herbs, and flowers are often started in the greenhouse and therefore should be
hardened off.

Hardening Off Your Seedlings

Two weeks before planting slow down the growth of your plant by watering and feeding less, and if possible,
keeping the seedlings at a slightly cooler temperature. This will begin the hardening off stage by preserving the
plants’ energy for adjusting to the new outdoor conditions.

Begin acclimating your seedlings to the garden by gradually exposing them to outdoor conditions. First expose
them to filtered sun in the shade of a tree or in a sheltered spot protected from the wind and direct sun. Leave
them out for an hour in the morning or late afternoon the first day. Each day increase the exposure to the
outdoors until after a week or so, they can withstand a full day of sun. While hardening the seedlings off, keep
them well-watered and watch them closely for signs of stress (the leaves may start turning yellow and drying
out if exposed to too much sun). You can cover the plants with shade cloth to help them adjust and to protect
against wind and cold temperatures even after they’ve been planted into the garden.

Transplanting
After you’ve hardened off your cool weather seedlings in mid-spring and your warm weather crop after the
average last frost, it’s time to transplant them into the garden. Pick a cloudy, windless afternoon to transplant
your seedlings to lessen the stress on them.
Transplanting Continued…
Make a hole or trowel out a row that is a little larger than the root ball of your seedling(s). Place a handful of
compost in the hole or work some into the topsoil before you make the row. Fill the hole with water and let it
sink in. Tap the sides of the pot to loosen the soil and root ball. Then carefully pull the seedling out by holding
onto a leaf. Avoid holding the plant by its stem as it’s easily damaged. Gently loosen and spread the roots and
immediately place the seedling into the hole (limiting the roots’ exposure to the dry air). Set the plant in the
hole a little deeper than it was in the pot, fill in the rest with soil and gently firm around roots to eliminate air
pockets. Make a saucer-depression around the stem to help catch water. Give each plant at least a quart of

58
water directly after they’ve been planted. You may want to mulch around the base of the plant with straw to
help keep weeds down and decrease evaporation.

After you have transplanted the seedlings, carefully observe your plants. Water them well until they have fully
recovered (established plants show new growth). Watch the weather for the first week or two after the average
last- frost date in case of a spell of cold or hot weather. If a late frost threatens to occur cover your warm-
weather plants with weather cloth or a plastic tarp to protect your plants. Cold frames, wallo’waters, cloches,
hotcaps (milk jugs), and grow tunnels (with weather cloth or fiberglass) are other devices used to protect plants
by trapping warm air during the day and insulating the plants and soil during the night, prompting faster growth.
Remember to remove any of these devices on sunny days to avoid roasting your plants.

Resources:
Encyclopedia of Organic Gardening, Ed. Marshal Bradley and Barbara W. Ellis, Rodale
Press 1997.
The Garden Primer, Barbara Damrosch, Workman Publishing 1988.
The New Seed-Starters Handbook, Nancy W. Bubel, Rodale Press 1988.

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 Heirloom Vegetables: An Old Story with Hope for the Future

Characteristics:
Heirloom varieties are the pure strain of a particular variety of a plant. They are not the standard hybrid –
combination of two varieties of plants – that is often found in many nurseries and seed catalogs. Heirlooms are
the old varieties you may have found in your grandmother’s garden. This may be why her tomatoes taste better
than yours.

Heirloom plants are not suited to large scale production because they cannot be harvested mechanically or
transported long distances to market. But they are often ideal for home gardeners, whose needs and preferences
remain unchanged through the generations. Many heirloom crops taste better or are more tender tha n hybrid
replacements, and many spread their harvest over a long period. If grown for years in one locality, they have
adapted to the climate and soil conditions of that area and may out produce other hybrid varieties. Others may
be less productive than today’s hybrids, but offer greater disease and insect resistance.

Why Heirloom?
A more vital reason for growing old cultivars is that heirloom plants represent a vast and diverse pool of genetic
characteristics – one that will be lost forever if these pla nts are allowed to become extinct. Even cultivars that
seem inferior to us today may carry a gene that will prove invaluable in the future. One may contain a valuable
but yet undiscovered compound. Another could have the disease resistance vital to future generations of
gardeners and plant breeders (Bradley, F.M., Ellis, B.W.)

Heirlooms are also important because they contain higher nutrients and are better for the soil. Some hybrids
produce food of lower nutritive value in comparison with older stains, and often use up nutrients from the soil at
a more rapid rate than a living soil can sustain over time. Hybrids are also often very susceptible to a few
diseases even when they are greatly resistant to many prevalent ones.

Great Heirloom Tomato Varieties Grown and Tested in Salt Lake City:
Cherokee Purple
Brandywine
Tigerella
Marvel Striped
Striped German
Yellow Pear
Matt’s Wild Cherry

Resources:
How to Grow More Vegetables..., John Jeavons
Rodales Encyclopedia of Organic Gardening, F.M. Bradley, B.W. Ellis
Seed to Seed, Suzanne Ashworth

Heirloom Seed Suppliers

Heirloom Seeds
P. O. Box 245
W. Elizabeth PA 15088-0245
http://www.heirloomseeds.com/

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Johnny Selected Seeds :
Foss Hill Road
Albion, Maine 04910
Phone: (207) 437-4301; Fax: 1-800-437-4290
http://www.johnnyseeds.com/

Native Seeds/SEARCH
526 N. 4th Ave.
Tucson, AZ 85705-8450
http://www.azstarnet.com/~nss/index.html

The Natural Gardening Company

P.O. Box 750776,
Petaluma, CA 94975-0776
Phone: (707) 766-9303; FAX: (707) 766-9747
http://www.naturalgardening.com/shopping/

Seed Savers Exchange

3076 North Winn Road
Decorah, Iowa 52101
http://www.seedsavers.org/index.htm

Seeds of Change
Order on-line or call us Toll-Free 1-888-762-7333
http://store.yahoo.com/seedsofchange/

Shepherds Seeds
30 Irene St.,
Torrington, CT 06790
Telephone: 860-482-3638 Fax: 860-482-0532
http://www.shepherdseeds.com/

How do I save seeds?

Let the fruit become very ripe, but not so it falls to the ground or begins to heat up. Scrape out the seedy
part of moist fru its. Wash off squash and pepper seeds and lay them out to dry right away. Put tomato seeds
and pulp into a glass with water for a few days, stirring every day. You’ll see the useless seeds and waste
material float while the good seeds sink. Skim off the waste before washing and drying. You can thresh
peas and beans to remove them from the pods, but don’t be too rough on the seeds. It is important to let
seeds of all varieties dry for days after harvesting (5-6 days for large seeds, 3-4 days for smaller ones).

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 Organic Pest Management
Keeping a garden pest-free can be a challenge. Every gardener has lost a plant to pests or disease at some point in his or
her gardening experience. It is easy to react with anger – many of us have sworn vengeance on each and every plant
destroyer that has ever crawled on the earth! But before we place land mines around our beloved heirloom tomatoes, we
should first ask ourselves to look at the big picture. Quite often the reason why the plant was lost was within our control
from the beginning.

"I suspect that the insects which have harassed you have been encouraged by the feebleness
of your plants... produced by the lean state of your soil... When earth is rich, it bids defiance
to droughts [and] yields in abundance." Thomas Jefferson, 1793, in a letter to his daughter

For organic gardeners, the key to healthy plants is prevention. If your soil is healthy, your plantings are well planned, and
your plants have access to adequate nutrients, you will have fewer problems with pests and disease. As the old saying
goes, ‘an ounce of prevention is worth a pound of cure.’ So, rather than investing in chemical solutions to pest problems,
try investing in the general health of your garden – your plants (and beneficial insects) will thank you.

Eight Steps to a Healthy Garden:

1. Build Healthy Soil
Soil that is rich in organic matter and microorganisms will provide a balance of nutrients for your plants. Most
gardeners prefer a loamy soil, with a balance of sand, silt, and clay. Consider performing a soil test to determine if
your soil is deficient in a certain area. Quite often a nutrient deficiency, such as a lack of calcium or nitrogen, may
be attracting pests to your plants. Even if you have all the elements present in your soil, it is the small life forms
(invertebrates, microbes, fungus) that work to create healthy soil. The three best things you can do to condition your
soil and encourage microbial life are to grow cover crops, mulch around bare soil, and add compost that you’ve
made from your leftover plant materials .
2. Choose the Right Plants
Just as you would not plant a palm tree in the Arctic, you would not plant a mango orchard in Utah. We are
fortunate here in Utah to be able to plant many kinds of fruits and vegetables, however certain plants do better in
certain climates. Plants that are under stress are more susceptible to pests and disease. Many vegetable varieties
have quickly adapted over time to do well here in our hot, dry growing season. Your local nursery and some seed
catalogs will be able to recommend these varieties.
3. Plan Diverse Plantings
When you create greater plant and animal diversity in your garden, you are supporting a better balance between
garden pests and beneficial insects. Planting a large area of one plant (monocropping), is similar to leaving an open
candy counter in a neighborhood full of children. Like the kid in the candy store, pests that are attracted to that crop
will come from everywhere and eat everything in site. When you plant diverse crops, you are inviting many
different insects, who will keep each other in balance. Remember that flowers attract beneficial insects. You will
find numerous sources of information on companion planting, crop rotation, and interplanting in the resources listed
below.
4. Buy Healthy Plants
Healthy plants will resist pests and diseases. Once you have selected appropriate plant varieties, be sure to inspect the
plants in the nursery to ensure that they are healthy and pest, disease and mold-free. This will give your garden a great
head start.

5. Provide Proper Plant Care

Again, if you plants are under stress, they will be more susceptible to attacks from pests. By providing adequate
water (not too much, not too little), and monitoring nutrient needs, you are not only meeting immediate needs, but
also preventing problems in the future.
6. Keep Garden Records
Your records may be as elaborate or as simple as you’d like. Some gardeners like to keep journals of their
gardening experience, while others prefer precise records of planting dates, compost application, and so forth.

62
 Keeping records will help you track the appearance of pests over time, so that you can become better informed
about when the pest appeared, how long it stayed, the damage created, and how the pest was dealt with. These
records will help you to anticipate pests, and to determine whether it is worth being concerned about.
7. Scout for Problems
Taking a few minutes each time you are in the garden to look for signs of pest trouble will save you time and stress
later on. Check under leaves for aphids. Look for slug and snail trails. Check under rocks and boards for pests that
may be hiding during the day.
8. Choose the Right Controls
Know your enemy. Some plant diseases look like pest problems, and vice-versa. Once you have determined what
has been eating your plants and how important it is to control it, it is time to decide which controls to use:
• Cultural Controls Adjust planting dates, modify pest habitats, etc…
• Physical Controls Traps, hand removal, water sprays, etc…
• Biological Controls Natural predators, nutrient balance, sprays and dusts, etc…

Remember, all things in the garden are connected. From the plants you grow to the microbes in the soil, from the beetles
and snails to the lacewings and ladybugs, each has a presence and a function. Your job as a gardener is to allow Nature to
maintain a healthy balance in the garden.

Resources:
Good Bugs for Your Garden, Allison Mia Starcher, Algonquin Books, 1995
Pests of the Garden and Small Farm, Mary Louise Flint, Univ. of California, 1998
Garden Pests and Diseases, Lynne Gilberg, ed., Sunset Books, 1993
Great Garden Companions: A Companion-Planting System for a Beautiful, Chemical-Free Vegetable Garden, Rodale
Press, Sally Jean Cunningham, 2000
Organic Pest & Disease Control, Taylor’s Weekend Gardening Guides, Barbara Ellis, ed., Houghton Mifflin, 1997
The Organic Gardener’s Handbook of Natural Insect and Disease Control, Barbara Ellis, ed., Rodale Press, 1996
Rodale’s Pest and Disease Problem Solver: A Chemical-Free Guide to Keeping Your Garden Healthy, Gilkeson, Peirce,
Smith, Rodale Press, 2000
Organic Plant Protection, Roger B. Yepsen, Jr., ed., Rodale Press, 1978 9th Edition
www.invisiblegardener.com, www.organicgardening.com, www.ccof.org

63
 Water Conservation
Why Conserve?
Paying attention to the amount of water we use in our homes and landscapes is important for the health of our
communities and our gardens. Utah is the second driest state in the nation. It is surprising to know that our per
capita water consumption levels are at 290 gallons/day/person - the second highest in the nation, and far above
the national average of 180 gallons/day/person. While it is important for us to use moderate amounts of water in
our gardens, WCG also recognizes that vegetable plants need certain water levels in order to produce the
desired harvest. It is our philosophy that it best serves our needs and the needs of our gardens to understand the
requirements of our plants and water accordingly.

How Much is Enough?

Your crops will need varying levels of water at different times of the growing season. On average, gardens need
1-2 inches of water per week. This level varies depending on the weather and time of year. Water will be lost to
evapotranspiration when the sun is out and the temperature is high. Because of this, we suggest watering in the
early morning, so that the soil has a chance to absorb water before the sun comes out. Remember, the watering
needs of your plants will change as the weather changes. Be prepared to adjust your watering schedule
accordingly. You will need to water more often when you first plant your seedlings and during the heat of
the summer. Reduce watering when it has been raining. Overwatering can be just as harmful to your plants and
soil as underwatering.

Most vegetable plants grow stronger root systems when they are watered deeply over evenly-spaced intervals.
Watering a little bit each day encourages shallow root growth and hardpan in the soil, especially in our dry
climate. Allowing your soil to dry completely before watering again will reduce fungus and disease in your soil.
A good test for soil moisture is to stick your finger a couple of inches below the surface. If it is moist, your
plants will not need watering.

There are more sophisticated ways to test the moisture level of your soil. Some soil moisture meters are highly
advanced, but tend to be high in cost. A soil probe will take a vertical sample of your soil, showing you how far
down water is penetrating after watering. Measuring the amount of water you use per week is also wise. A
container can easily be placed outside when watering. By measuring the amount of water in the container, you
can determine if you need to increase or decrease the amount of water that you are providing your garden.

Ways to Conserve
One of the best ways to reduce water consumption is to reduce your need for water. Covering your plot with a
straw or leaf mulch will help your plants grow by conserving moisture, keeping weeds down, and adding
organic material to your soil. Smart gardeners don't go without mulch! Commonly used organic mulches
include straw, leaves, grass clippings, hay, pine needles and even newspaper. Another way to keep your soil
cool is to plant your crops close together. This creates a microclimate where plants protect the soil and each
other from the sun. Studies have shown that healthy soil retains moisture longer than compacted, lifeless soil.
The time you spend making sure that your soil is full of life- giving organic matter and plenty of nutrients will
benefit your crops and most importantly, save water.

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Mulch Material Advantages Disadvantages
Straw/Hay Cheap, readily available, adds organic May contain weed seed, insects, disease/mold
matter
Leaves Readily Available, free, rich in nutrients Can mat down, be too acidic, may contain pesticide residue
Grass Clippings Free, easy to apply, good source of nitrogen Can mat down, may contain weed seeds, herbicide residue
Pine Needles Good way to lower pH, easy to apply May be too acid
Newspaper Easy to obtain & apply, earthworms love it Decomposes quickly, must be weighted down
Plastic Total weed control, warms soil well, heavy Expensive, unattractive, may sterilize soil, must be weighted
plastic is durable and may be reused down

Drip Irrigation
Three of the gardens operated by WCG have drip irrigation systems. By slowly applying water at the base
of the plant (where it's needed the most), over a longer period of time, drip irrigation allows us to water
deeply without wasting water. Water that is sprayed overhead with a hose or sprinkler will be lost to
evaporation and might burn the leaves of your plants on sunny days. Drip irrigation also drastically
reduces the amount of topsoil lost to erosion from overhead sprinkling systems or conventional irrigation.
Fewer weeds crop up with drip irrigation because water is being applied to the plants you want to
encourage, rather than the entire garden.

Resources:
Jordan Valley, Water Conservation District (801) 565-8903 www.jvwcd.org
Sherm Fox , Trickle Irrigation Supply, (801) 272-2354
Colorado State Cooperative Extension www.colostate.edu/depts/coopext/
Western Regional Climate Center www.wrcc.dri.edu
How to Grow More Vegetables (than you ever thought possible) pp. 68-73, John Jeavons,
Ten Speed Press, 1995

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 Trellising
Trellising Basics
One of the challenges of urban gardening is limited space. Trellising is an especially useful technique because it allows urban
gardeners to utilize vertical space. Trellising vegetable plants helps to keep crops off the ground resulting in cleaner fruits that are less
susceptible to rot, to certain soil born diseases and insects and to ground dwelling pests. Trellising also makes for an easier harvest
and can be used to satisfy aesthetics preferences such as covering unattractive fences with flowering vines or welcoming garden
visitors with a lushly arching entrance arbor.

Fruit and vegetable plants that are commonly trellised include squash, pumpkins, cucumbers, melons, gourds, beans, peas, raspberries,
grapes, tomatoes, and sometimes peppers and eggplants. Gardeners also often use trellises for flowering vines such as Morning
Glories or Trumpet Vines, or for ivy plants.

There are many trellis designs to consider. They include: teepee, A-frame, basic stake, double-armed T, square wire frame, cage,
fence, branch, staked row and string, and living companion plant trellises (such as corn stalks for beans). However, you needn’t limit
yourself to existing styles. Be creative, there are dozens of possible trellis designs. If creating your own, make sure they are
sufficiently strong to bear the weigh of your mature plants in varied weather. Also remember to include large openings in your design
for easy harvest. If you choose to use trellises, set them up in the garden before planting to avoid damaging plant roots and match the
trellis with the plant. Different trellis varieties are discussed below with each respective plant type they best accommodate (this
handout with focus on peas, pole beans, and tomatoes).

Trellising for Legumes (Leguminosae)

Peas One of the first signs of spring is the pea trellis raised over the thawing soil. There are a few commonly used trellises that work
well for peas: the A-frame, the staked row with wide-meshed wire, or the simple branch or stake trellis.

A-Frame Trellis: Lean two wooden 4 by 5 ft. frames covered with wide-meshed wire or plastic mesh to make the letter “A” when
viewed from the side (see picture below). Fasten the frames at the top with wire or hinges to stabilize the structure. Then simply sow
your peas along the bottom of each frame at the desired depth and spacing.

Staked Row/Wide-Meshed Trellis: Sink 5 ft. tall stakes or poles into the ground at a depth of a 1-2 ft. and spaced every 3 ft. Pull tight
and fasten the “sheet” of mesh at each stake/pole using a staple gun or wire for the length of the bed. Sow peas directly underneath
and on both sides of the meshed trellis.

Branch: One of the simplest trellis structures for your peas is the discarded branch. Find branches that have 2 in.
diameters and that twig out from the main limb after about 1 ½ft. —sinking the limb into the soil at a depth of 1-2 ft. Sow
peas at the base of the branch.

Beans There are several popular ways to trellis pole beans: the teepee trellis, the single stake trellis, the A-frame trellis, the living
corn stock trellis, and the wooden frame/vertical wire trellis. Pole bean trellises will require 8 ft. tall poles, stakes or frames.
Otherwise their construction will be similar to those mentioned in the “Peas” section. Pole beans especially like simple vertical wires
or poles to climb with no horizontal lines to interrupt their path. Be sure to set up the trellis before you sow your beans--after the
average last frost date. Sow several seeds around each pole or stake and thin down to three when seedlings start to get larger.

Teepee: Place three poles together like a teepee and tie them together at the top with stout twine or wire (see
below). The poles should be at least 8 ft. tall.

Single Stake: Drive a 9 ft. stake or pole into the soil 1-2 ft. deep and sow bean seeds directly underneath. The beans will wind
naturally around the pole so no additional twine should be needed to hold the plant up.

A-Frame: Follow the same design as the pea A-frame trellis using the dimensions of 4 ft. wide and 8 ft. tall.

Corn Stock Trellis: If using the living corn stock trellis, sow corn at least 2-3 weeks prior to sowing your beans so they’re sufficiently
strong and tall to hold the beans when they begin to vine. The corn stock will serve as a support beam for the bean plants while the
nitrogen fixing beans help to replenish the soil with nutrients that they heavy-feeding corn depletes. Corn should be spaced roughly a
foot apart with two seeds per hole planted at a depth of 1inch

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Frame and Wire: Follow the directions for the bean A-Frame trellis above but make only one frame. Attach each side to 9 ft. stakes,
posts or poles that are sunken into the bed 1-2 ft.

Trellising for Tomatoes (Solanaceae)

Most gardeners trellis their tomatoes. It’s less common to see peppers and eggplant trellised but it can sometimes be
helpful. You can choose simply to let your tomatoes sprawl out on the ground. Tomatoes allowed to sprawl produce
higher yields but they also take up more space. If you decide not to trellis your tomatoes mulch well underneath the plants
to keep fruit from contacting the soil or being eaten by ground pests. Many types of trellises will work for your tomatoes.

The Tomato Cage: The most common tomato trellis is the cage variety with openings large enough to harvest through. Sinking two
or three additional stakes on the inside of a cage will reinforce them to the extent that a tomato laden with fruit will be held sturdily
(see below). If making your own cage bend a 6 by 5 concrete reinforcement wire mesh to make a circular cage. A variant of the wire
tomato cage is the wooden box cage that is essentially the same design except square instead of circular and constructed with wood
instead of wire. Be sure to avoid wood treaded with toxic chemicals.

Post and Mesh or String: Another popular trellis for tomatoes planted in rows utilizes single 5 ft. tall 2 in. diameter posts sunken 1-2
ft. into the ground with sheets of plastic or wire mesh (trellis netting) fasted (stapled or tied with wire or twine) to each post and
spaced 4 to 5 ft. apart down the row. Make sure the-mesh has large openings to make harvesting easy. If you don’t have plastic mesh
you can tightly loop lines of twine around each post down the row in horizontal fashion every 6-12 in. up the post. When using one
row of posts and mesh/twine, you may want to gently tie main vines to the trellis with a soft twine for extra support. If you’re planting
2 rows of tomatoes down a single bed they can be sandwiched together in between two rows of posts and mesh/twine (see below).

Basic Stake: If growing tomatoes up a single vertical stake (2 inch in diameter), prune the plants to one main stem and clip off the
suckers that grow between leaf stems and the main stem. If using stakes you’ll need to tie the main tomato vines with soft but stout
twine to the stakes using a lose knot to avoid damaging the stems. Each 6 ft. tall 2 in. diameter stake should be placed 2 ft. apart and
sunken 1 to 2 ft. deep (see below).

Trellising for Cucurbits (Cucurbitaceae)—Melons, Squash, Gourds, Pumpkins and Cucumbers

Most melons, squash, gourds, cucumbers and pumpkins take up a lot of space, as they tend to vine and sprawl out vigorously in the
garden. The main exceptions are bush varieties of cucurbits (such as bush zucchinis). Therefore, most cucurbits can be trellised. For
any hanging melon, squash, gourd or cucumber larger than a hefty slicing tomato, you may want to tie a sling to the trellis and wrap it
around the fruit to hold it secure. Panty hose or old rags work splendidly for this. Teepees, A-Frames, and fences do well for
cucurbits; however, most trellis designs will accommodate these opportunistic plants (follow building directions under the other
sections and see pictures below).

A- Basic Stake
B- A-Frame
C- Teepee
D- Cages
C
E- Frame &Wire
F- Branch Trellis
G- Post & Wire Row
G

D A

B
E
F

Resources
The Garden Primer, by Barbara Damrosch, Workman Publishing 1988
Rodale’s Illustrated Gardening and Landscaping Technique, Ed. Bradley and Ellis, Rodale Press 1990
Rodale’s All-New Encyclopedia of Organic Gardening, Ed. Barbara Ellis, Rodale Press 1997
67