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 What’s So Specialabout Farmstead Cheese?
T
heUnitedStatesisexperiencingaood-qualityrenaissance.Anincreaseinthenumberoarmers’marketsand“eatlocal”campaigns,agrowingaware-nessooodquality,andadesiretoappreciatethestorybehindtheproductareallinuencingthewayAmericansarebuyingandconsumingood.Whilewearestilllargelyanationoast-oodaddictsandall-you-can-eatbuetafcionados,moreandmorepeopletodayarestartingtocarelessaboutthesizeotheservingthanaboutthequalityandstoryoitsingredients.Thisawakeningisnotlimitedtothosewhocanaordtheluxuryofneroods.Itextends—andindeedorigi-nates—romabasicneedtoreconnectwithhealth,history,andtheawarenessonutrition’sroleinourveryexistence.
The History o Cheesemaking in the United States
BernardNantet,inhisbook
Cheeses of the World,
maintainsthattheUnitedStates,unlikeEurope,doesnothaveastrongtraditionoartisancheesemaking.Itcouldbearguedthatitisthislackoanembeddedculinary-culturalbackground,inpart,thatallowedtheunetteredmechanizationthatallbutextinguishedthemanuactureohandcratedartisancheesesintheU.S.bythemid-1900s.Thecurrentrevival,whichbeganinearnestinthelate1970s,occurredthankstoacombinationoactorsthatincreasedtheAmericanpublic’sappreciationnotonlyooodbutalsoothewayoliethatthearmer-cheesemakerleads.
Rise and Fall
 Althoughgoats,sheep,andcowstraveledtotheAntilles(Caribbeanislands)withChristopherColumbusinthelate1400s,itwasn’tuntiltheearly1600sthatmilkcows,andalongwiththemcheesemaking,arrivedatEuropeansettlementsontheshoresowhatisnowtheUnitedStatesoAmerica.CheeseswerepartotheprovisionsstockedonboardshipstravelingtotheAmericas,andaswithalloodspackedorthedifcultvoyages,cheesewasasustenanceood,notaluxury.
 
2 THINGS TO CONSIDER BEFORE TAKING THE LEAP
Cheese,bothonboardtheshipsandinthenewsettlements,wassimplythebest waytopreserveexcessmilkandextendtheavailabilityoavaluableood.EuropeanimmigrantsadaptedtothehardshipsolieintheNewWorldwhilecontinuingtopracticetheoodtraditionsotheirnativecultures.Overtimeandthroughcontinuedwavesoimmigration,cheeseproducedinAmericagradu-allybegantoreectregionalinuences:Inthenortheastpartothecountry,anEnglishinuencecreatedanearlyCheddarindustry;inWisconsin,SwissandDanishtraditionsincludedGoudaandalpinestyles;andinCaliorniaandthe West,SpanishandFrenchculturesinuencedthekindsocheesesmadethere,includingthedevelopmentoanAmericanoriginal,MontereyJackcheese.Bythemid-1800smostruralamilieshadamilkcoworgoatsordairy,meat,andby-products.Cheesewasproducedonthearmorathome,andcheesemaking wasanormalpartoahomemaker’srepertoire.Theseedsochange,oralloagricultureandeating,camewiththeAmericanIndustrialRevolutioninthe1850s.Mechanizationincreasedtheabilityoarmerstogrowmoreeed,raisemoreanimals,andsubsequentlyharvestever-increasingquantitiesomilk.Forthecheesemaker,equipmentcouldbemanuacturedtoprocesslargervolumesomilkintocheesetoeedagrowingpopulation.Inthe1840saWisconsinmannamedJamesPicketisbelievedtohavebeenthefrstarmertomakecheeseromthemilkonotonlyhisownanimals,butaneighbor’scowsaswell.Thisnewconceptindairyingwastakenastepurtherin1851whenthefrst“modern”cheeseactorywasbuiltbyJesseWilliamsinOneida,NewYork.Williams’sactoryisbelievedtohavebeenthefrstcheeseplanttopoolmilkrommultiplearmersandcompletetheentireprocessocheesemakinginacommercialacility.Otheractoriesquicklysprangup
Family cow being milked, early twentieth century.
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