Shindengen FH012AAMosfet Regulator/Rectifierupgrade kit.Install on a KawasakiVN750 Vulcan

Installation, documentation, and photos bywww.VN750.commember Chiron

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As many of us know, the stock charging system on cruiser motorcycles are week to saythe least. Many times stator and regulators/rectifiers fail leaving us stranded, or we just wantto add more electrical do dads. I have spent a great deal of time looking into different ways tofix this problem on my Kawasaki Vulcan 750 with out much luck. Then one day Chiron sendsme an emails saying he found the solution to our delima. He had been fallowing my researchwhen he stumbled a crossed the

Shindengen FH012AA Mosfet Regulator/Rectifier.

He thendug a little deaper and found a whole installation kit for $119.00 fromhttp://roadstercycle.com. The fallowing is his write up, all I can take credit for is adding the pictures in the right spot,and some proof reading here and there.

Overview, purchasing, and packagingOverview

Many motorcycles have a weakness in the form of the regulator/rectifier portion of their charging system. Our Vulcan 750's in particular have issues here. So, I'll try to be brief andinformative. A R/R take the 3 phase AC current generated by the stator in the motor andconverts it to DC current in the rectifier portion of the unit. The electricity then gets passedthrough the regulator portion of the unit which controls the output voltage and current levelsthat feed into the bike's electrical system. Basically a pretty simplistic, but accuratedescription of it's function. Where the weaknesses come in are in the type of the regulator portion and the components used within the regulator.In general there are two types of regulators, the shunt type and the series type. Each hastheir own pros and cons. The difference is how they operate. A shunt type of regulator passes current at all times and when the load doesn't need the extra current, it “shunts” it toground. A series regulator passes current only when the load needs it. The series typesusually runs cooler and/or more efficiently. Both the stock R/R and the Shindengen unit areshunt type of regulators. The components used within the R/R mainly have to do withefficiency and robustness. The stock unit uses components called Silicon ControlledRectifiers (SCR) and the Shindengen unit uses Metal-Oxide-Semiconductor Field-EffectTransistor (MOSFET). In the instance of motorcycle R/R's MOSFETs have an advantageover SCRs when implemented correctly.

Purchasing and Packaging

So the Shindengen FH012AA R/R is available for purchase in many places for a variety of prices new and used since it has been used on numbers newer motorcycles, ATVs, andsnowmobiles. However, I would definitely recommend a new unit. A Google search willvery easily turn up Yamaha OEM part numbers and availability. But Jack @Roadstercycles.com has already done most of the leg work for us. He has put together kitsfor several popular bikes and a universal kit for most other bikes as well. Overall, Jack hasone of the best prices on the Shindengen at $119 plus S/H, but he also includes the new styleof connectors and terminals needed to retrofit the unit to an older bike. Jack has also beenvery responsive to communications and stands behind his products. You can see in pictures1, 2, 3, and 4 how the unit is shipped and what is included in the box.

(BY ACCIDENT,

Pic4 only shows one end of the battery cable and not the R/R of the cable with plasticconnector)InstallationStator Wiring

Despite R/R relocation being a standard mod on our Vulcans, I decided to mount the FH012AA in thestock location. Why? Because I like a clean look, and I'm not really worried about heat with this unit. Ihave talked to many people about it and not a single one has ever mentioned the unit getting warm, letalone hot to the touch. Couple that with the fact that I have done away with my stock exhaust,including the “goat” catalytic converter, and that makes me fairly confident that I won't have anytroubles. So I removed the battery box to get at the stock mounting location.As you can see in pictures 5, 6, and 7, the new unit is a decent bit larger than either the stock unit or even an aftermarket replacement. The holes however do line up. Though on mine one hole waselongated for fitment and one was not. I had to use a dremel to open up the one hole just enough toallow the bolt to fit (about 1/8” to 3/16” or less). Pictures 8 and 9 show it mounted to the bottom of the battery box and Picture 10 shows the battery box test fitted back in the bike to make sure there are nofitment issues. I finished up the physical installation and re-installed all other components mounted tothe battery box.