Browse an booksore, online or brick-and-morar,and ou’ll nd a large selecion o culinar reer-ence books ha oer sep-b-sep insrucions orpreparing classic French cuisine. Man o hese books are wonderul, and we highl recommend anumber o hem or an cook’s librar. Unoru-nael, alhough hese exs oen encompassNouvelle and New Inernaional mehods, he include ew (i an) o he exciing new echniquesha have been developed in he las 30 ears.Man Modernis ches have writen heir own books, and hese generall do a grea job o elucidaing aspecs o each che’s personal culi-nar sle. Ches don’ usuall aspire o wrie a book ha is more comprehensive han heir own vision—aer all, a che operaing a resauranprobabl doesn’ have he ime o produce alengh reerence ex like hose ha exis orFrench cuisine. Ches are oo bus running heirkichens and creaing new dishes.In a sense, cookbook wriers ace similar barriers. Man o he greaes cookbooks are writen b people who wrie or a living, like Paula Woler, Paricia Wells, Michael Ruhlman, Mark Bitman, James Peerson, Wane Gisslen, anddozens o ohers. Auhors such as hese end no o wrie large-scale reerence books, which requirelarge sas working ull-ime or a mater o ears.For conex, consider ha he producion o heseve volumes required he combined eors o several dozen people over he span o hree ears.Ta level o eor is he norm or a major reer-ence work or college exbook. Resources on hisscale are generall no available o independenood wriers, however.O course, Julia Child is one noable excepiono his rule, bu she had wo coauhors, and evenhen, he underook an arduous nine-ear journe o he publicaion o
Mastering the Art of French Cooking.
In addiion, Child’s maserpiece was mosl ex—i originall conained nophoos and onl minimal illusraions. Ta kindo book worked in 1961, bu i wouldn’ be com-peiive in oda’s marke, where numerous visualelemens are expeced in a book o his size.Child’s sor is a cauionar ale o wriers who would atemp a book on a similar scale. Indeed,or people who wrie or a living, i makes moresense o publish less comprehensive, more special-ized cookbooks on a regular basis. Who, hen, would spend he ime, energ, andmone o creae a large-scale culinar reerence book? Cerainl no mainsream publishers, because such a book would be exremel expen-sive o produce and would no have an provenmarke. Who would be oolhard enough o seporward? We decided i would be us.Te origins o his book dae back o 2004, when I sared exploring and explaining sous videcuisine in eGulle’s online orums (see page 59). As a resul o ha experience, I resolved o wrie a book on sous vide. A he ime, here was no book in English abou he echnique, and he onl recen ex on he subjec was Joan Roca’s excel-len
Sous Vide Cuisine,
which I sruggled hroughin Spanish (beore he English version came ouand beore Tomas Keller published his book
Under Pressure: Cooking Sous Vide
). Tere wasclearl a need or a comprehensive book on sous vide in English, so I decided o wrie i.Bu as I worked on he book, I kep seeingreasons o expand is scope. Food sae is inri-cael linked o sous vide; misundersandingsabou he sae o he mehod have long preven-ed is widespread adopion. So, wih he help o several research assisans, I dug ino he scieniclieraure and discovered ha much o wha chesare old abou ood sae is wrong. Mosl i is wrong in a wa ha ruins he ase o ood wihouproviding an meaningul improvemen in sae.Someimes i is wrong in he oher direcion,producing resuls ha could be unsae. I becameclear o me ha cooks need some guidance.Tis idea was driven home when che SeanBrock conaced me or help convincing his localood inspecor ha i would be sae o serve oodprepared sous vide a his resauran, McCrad’s, inCharleson, Souh Carolina. A ew das laer, heood inspecor or ha area also conaced me. He was ascinaed b he daa I had passed along oBrock and waned o learn more. Brock goapproval o go ahead, and I resolved ha m book would cover microbiolog and ood sae as wellas he core aspecs o sous vide echniques.
HE SORy OF HIS BOOK
The creaton o ths book requred years oeort by a arge team. Most o thephotography, research, and recpedeeopment and testng took pace n theteam’s ktchen aboratory n Beeue,Washngton. Scenes shown on thepreous page ncude (cockwse rom topet) coauthor and head che Mame Bettossng str ry or the photo on page 2·50,nstrument maker Ted Es sawngequpment n ha or a cutaway mage,che Grant Cry arrangng sausage or acutaway mage o a gr (see page 2·14),author Nathan Myhrod adjustng a rotaryeaporator, Mame arrangng up apate-up or a photo shoot, Grant gettngspattered whe runnng an mmersonbender upsde-down to get a dramatcpcture, researcher Chrstna Mer mngt up, the photo studo oor ater oneespecay messy shoot (see page 4·196),che Johnny Zhu puttng the na toucheson a tapa (see page 2·189), and coauthorChrs Young workng wth Grant and cheSam Fahey-Burke to prepare a pg orcookng sous de—whoe.
For reerences torecommended cunarybooks, ncudng books by Modernst ches, seethe Further Readng secton near the end ooume 5.