L’Oréal Paris, Garnier,Maybelline New York, Mininurse,La Scad, SoftSheen Carson, Yue-Sai.
L’Oréal Professionnel,Kérastase, Inné, Redken, Matrix,Mizani.
Lancôme, Biotherm,Helena Rubinstein, Kiehl’s, ShuUemura, Parfums Giorgio Armani,Parfums Cacharel, Ralph LaurenFragrances, Paloma Picasso, ParfumsGuy Laroche.
Vichy, Laroche-Posay. Innéov, Galderma, Le Clubdes Créateurs de Beauté (50%).
This February, Lindsay Owen-Jones announced Jean-Paul Agon will succeed him as ceo of L’Oréal.Agon is to work at Owen-Jones’ side until April 2006, when Owen-Jones will become non-executivechairman of the firm. Positive performances worldwide boosted L’Oréal’s second-quarter sales 5.4%year-on-year to
3.62 billion. Its business gained 1% in Western Europe, 4.8% in North America,7.8% in Asia, 19.6% in Latin America, 35.5% in Eastern Europe and 14.1% in “other countries.” Forthe first half of 2005, L’Oréal generated sales of
7.16 billion, an increase of 3.5% over the sameperiod in 2004. Last year, the company’s smallest division, active cosmetics, was the market leaderfor skin care products in pharmacies, the company said. The branch’s global sales grew 13.8% to
852 million. The consumer products division’s sales were boosted 3.3% to
7.75 billion. Luxuryproducts’ revenues grew 2.3% to
3.52 billion. Professional products’ turnover rose 5.2% to
2billion. This May, L’Oréal announced its acquisition of U.S. professional skin care brand SkinCeutic-als, of Dallas, with sales of $35 million. Signe Gammeltoft was named president of Ralph LaurenFragrances in June. In April, L’Oréal Paris signed actress Eva Longoria as a worldwide spokeswoman.In spring, L’Oréal Paris extended its first mass men’s skin care line Men’s Expert to new markets.
14.2 billion+4% v. ‘03
Pantene, Olay, Head &Shoulders, Clairol, HerbalEssences, Nice ’n Easy, NaturalInstincts, Cover Girl, SK-II, Rejoice, Hugo Boss, MaxFactor, Old Spice, Secret,Lacoste, Vidal Sassoon, Aussie,Infusium 23, Noxzema, LauraBiagotti, Koleston, Wellaflex,Shockwaves, Gucci, Rochas,Escada, Puma, Anna Sui, Ghost, Yardley, Bogner, Tosca, MaxMara, Mexx.
This January, P&G announced its intention to acquire Gillette Co. for about $57 billion. Gillettewould increase P&G’s annual turnover to more than $60 billion. P&G Beauty reported total salesof $19.48 billion for the fiscal year ended June 30. According to industry estimates, the company’sbeauty sales reached $16.48 billion, not including the $3 billion rung up by feminine care and barsoap. P&G Beauty’s fastest-growing billion-dollar brand is Olay. The company also has two leadingglobal hair care brands, Pantene and Head & Shoulders. P&G Beauty delivered double-digit gainsin sales and profits last year. Among key launches, according to the firm, were Moisturinse fromOlay and Amino ProV complex from Pantene. SK-II posted double-digit gains and expanded intothe U.S. Cover Girl chalked up its strongest year in 2004, growing faster than any other U.S. masscosmetics brand, led by TruBlend, the firm said. Clairol Natural Instincts continued to gain share insemi-permanent hair coloring. According to the firm, Nice ’n Easy grew market share globally lastyear and recaptured the number-one brand position in the U.K. P&G Beauty recruited-makeup artistPat McGrath and signed a license with Iman. P&G discontinued its beauty licenses with Toni & Tina,Trussardi, Charles Jourdan and Yohji Yamamoto. The company launched its first Valentino fragrance.
PROCTER & GAMBLE
$16.48 billion+10% v. Fiscal ‘03-’04
company/2004 salessubsidiaries/main brandsrecent history
THE WHO’S WHO OF COSMETICS
LE WHO’S WHO DE LA COSMÉTIQUE
DAS WHO’S WHO DER KOSMETIKBRANCHE
Unilever Home and PersonalCare:
Axe/Lynx, Impulse, Rexona/Sure, Degree, Dove, Lux, Ponds, Vaseline, Suave, Sunsilk, Organics,Timotei, Finesse, Salon Selectives.
This July, Unilever sold its prestige fragrance business, Unilever Cosmetics International (UCI), toCoty Inc. for $800 million. The division includes the Calvin Klein, Cerruti, Lagerfeld, Chloé, Nautica,Max Azria BCBG and Vera Wang beauty brands. Unilever–which turns 75 this year– said the salewas in line with its strategy to focus on its core categories. However, Unilever said UCI had met withsales expectations and delivered sharply improved profitability and cash flow in 2004. Last year,Unilever’s personal-care business registered underlying sales growth of 2.1% with market-sharegains in Europe, Africa and the Middle East. Skin care (excluding soap) clocked up an estimated
2.1 billion in sales; hair care,
2.835 billion; deodorant,
1.76 billion, and prestige fragrance,
560 million. For the first half of 2005, Unilever reported personal-care sales of
4.973 billion, anincrease of 4.6% versus the same period in 2004. Hair care did particularly well in Southeast Asia,according to the firm, which added there had a been a sustained uptick in its U.S personal-carebusiness. Dove skin care generated $2.5 billion across 80 countries. Sunsilk hair care recordeddouble-digit growth in 2004 as it was rolled out in Europe. Unilever claims to have the world’s larg-est deodorant brand with Rexona/Sure.
$9.323 billion (Est.)
7.495 billion (Est.)+5% v. ‘03
WWD BEAUTY REPORT INTERNATIONAL
The Top 100 ranks the world’s largest cosmetics manufacturers by beauty sales. A Who’s Who of the industry, these firms weigh in at $124.539 billion. The U.S. has the most companies on the list, with 34; France is second, with 16. Italy has 11; Germany, 10; Japan, nine; the U.K., six; Russia,South Korea and Switzerland have three each, Spain and Brazil have two each, and Sweden hasone. The U.S. leads in volume terms with $52.761 billion, about 42% of the worldwide total. Sales figures were obtained from the companies or are estimates calculated with the help of industrysources. Sales are for the 2004 calendar year or the closest fiscal year at the magazine’s printing datein August. Beauty volume is made up of fragrance, makeup, skin care, sun care, hair care, deodor-ant, plus cellulite and shaving items. It does not include bar soap, razors, toothpaste, foods anddiet foods, medicine, vitamins or detergents. To be included in this ranking, a company must sell itsproducts in at least two of four major markets: Europe, North America, South America and Asia.
RESEARCHED AND COMPILED BY ELLEN GROVES,
WITH CONTRIBUTIONS FROM MELISSA DRIER (BERLIN),POUL FUNDER LARSEN (KIEV), ELLEN BURNEY, NINA JONES(LONDON), STEPHANIE EPIRO (MILAN), PETER BORN, FAYEBROOKMAN, MATTHEW EVANS, BRYN KENNY, ANDREA NAGEL, JULIE NAUGHTON, MOLLY PRIOR (NEW YORK) AND MICHEALKEPP (RIO DE JANEIRO).