Professional Documents
Culture Documents
Costs
The cutting room has a greater effect on excessive
manufacturing costs than any other department
concerned with the actual production of garments.
Efficiency
The factors influencing materials
utilization
Pattern accuracy
Marker waste
Spreading waste
External costs
Coordination
Defects
Matching
Accuracy
Sewing
Shading
Quality
Production Process in the Cutting
Room
Planning
Spreading
Cutting
Preparation for sewing
Production process in the Cutting Room
Spreads
Markers
Planning
Production
Manual
Spreading
Machine
Machine
Die Press
Cutting
Computer
Shade marking/ticketing
Preparation
for sewing
Bundles
Cut order planning
It translates customer orders into cutting orders
coordinate customer orders with all the variables of marker
making, spreading, and cutting
minimize total production costs
meet deadlines
seek most effective use of labor, equipment, fabric and space
Responsibilities of Cut Order Planning
Examining incoming orders and piece goods width and availability
Determining volume, size ratios, and sectioning procedures for marker making
Determining whether file markers are available or new ones are needed
Developing specifications for optimum marker making and fabric utilization
Cutting Orders
Leads to
Marker Making
is the process of determining the most efficient
layout of pattern pieces for a specified style,
fabric, and distribution of sizes (requires time,
skill and concentration)
Marker Making
A STEPPED SPREAD
Minimum waste
Factors effecting Marker Efficiency
Fabric characteristics
Characteristics of Pattern pieces, splitting
pattern pieces and creating a seam , reducing
seam allowances, hemwidth, adjusting and
modifying grainline, etc
Difference in face and back – print,
velvet, corduroy
Lengthwise directionality - NAP
Crosswise symmetry – Border print
Need for matching the fabric design –
mitering
Length of design repeat – small/big checks
Fabric width.
Markers containing large and small pcs
F/O/W
N/O/W
F/F
N/O/W
F/F
N/U/D
F/O/W
N/U/D
Requirements of Spreading
process
Shade sorting of cloth pieces
Correct ply direction and adequate lay stability
Alignment of plies
Correct ply tension
Elimination of fabric faults
Avoidance of distortion in the spread
Avoidance of fusion of plies during cutting
Setup for spreading
Verifying cutting orders
Positioning materials
Preparing cutting tables
Preparing machines
Loading machine
Reloading and delay time may use up to 70% of
the time required for the entire spreading
operation.
Methods of spreading
Spreading by hand
Spreading using a travelling machine
(100 to 150 yards per minute)
Fabric control devices
Tensioning involves synchronizing the rate of
spreading with the rate fabric is unrolled
Positioning devices and sensors monitor
position and control fabric placement during
spreading. (to improve quality in spreading)
Fabric control devices
Width indicators may sound an alarm to alert
the operator when fabric becomes narrower
than the established width
End treatment device are used with spreaders
but are separate and placed at the end of the
spread (end catcher and folding blade)
The nature of fabric packages
Open fabric – rolled
Tubular knitted fabric – rolled
Folded fabric – rolled
Folded fabric – cuttled
Velvet - hanging
Open fabric – rolled
Contract details
MARKER UTILISATION
Disruptions
CUSTOMER REQUIREMENTS
Cutting plan example 1
The contract details are as follows
Size 10 12 14 16 18
Quantity 40 90 80 25 25
The constraints on lay dimensions are:
Maximum lay height = 50 plies
Maximum lay length = 4 garments marked
The limit of four garments marked may seem
rather contrived but it allows the concepts to
be explained more easily
It is useful to determine the theoretical minimum
number of lays required to cut the contract:
Max no of gmts per lay is 4X50=200gmts
The no. of gmts required = 40+90+80+25+25
=260 gmts
There fore the theoretical minimum no. of lays
= 260/200 = 1.3
This gives a practical minimum of two lays to
cut the contract – the best that is possible
Lay 1
Lay 2
Size 10 12 14 16 18
Quantity 40 90 80 25 25
16 18 12 12 Lay 1 – 25 plies
10 14 14 12 Lay 2 – 40 plies
Cutting plan example 2
The contract details are follows
Size 12 14 16 18
Quantity 100 160 120 60
the constraints on lay dimensions are:
Maximum lay height = 60 plies
Maximum lay length = 4 garments marked
Theoretical minimum no. of lays required
are:
Max no of garments per lay is 4X60=240 gmts
The no. of garments required = 100+160+120+60
= 440 garments
There fore the theoretical minimum no. of lays = 440/240
= 1.83
Size S M L
Quantity 300 600 400
M M M L L Lay 2 - 75 plies
M M M L L Lay 3 - 75 plies
M M M L L Lay 4 - 50 plies
COSTING OF CUT ORDER PLAN
– MATERIAL COSTS ( Example 4)
You have received the following contract:
Quantity 1200
Size A B C D E
Quantity 1 2 4 2 1
Single gmt marker lengths (m) : 2.0 2.2 2.4 2.5 2.6
B C C D Lay 2- 80 plies
B C C D Lay 3 - 80 plies
B C C D Lay 4 - 80 plies
4. Calculation of material
Ply lengths
Ply length for lay 1 8.740 + 0.030 = 8.770 m
Ply length for lays 2-4 9.025 + 0.030 = 9.055 m
Lay lengths
Lay length for lay 1 8.770 X 60 = 526.20 m
Lay length for lays 2-4 9.055 X 80= 724.40 m
Material costs
Total length 526.20 + (724.40 X3) = 2699.40 m
Total cost 2699.40 X 3.00 = 8098.20 $