SUPPORT MATERIALS

INTRODUCTION:
1.S.M ARE USED TO ENHANCE THE
“APPEARANCE”, & “PERFORMANCE” OF THE
GARMENTS.
2.THE S.M ARE
INTERLININGS,LININGS,TAPES,SHOULDER PADS,
SLEEVE HOLDERS, COLLAR STAYS OR COLLAR
BONES.
3.FASHION TRENDS TEND TO CREATE THE
DEMAND OF DIFFERENT TYPES OF SUPPORT
MATERIALS.
4. SUPPORT MATERIALS SELDOM ARE
MENTIONED IN THE LABELS.
5. THE MOST OF THE S.M. ARE HIDDEN IN THE
STRUCTURE OF THE GARMENT.
6. S.M MUST BE COMPACTIBLE WITH THE SHELL
FABRICS.
7. SELECTION & APPLICATION OF SUPPORT
MATERIALS PLAY MAJOR ROLE IN SUCCESS &
PERFORMANCE OF THE STYLE OF THE
GARMENT.
 PURPOSES OF SUPPORT MATERIALS
1. S.M ARE IMP. INTRINSIC QUALITY OF
GARMENTS & USED FOR PROVIDING
“SHAPE”, “STABILITY”, “REINFORCEMENT AT
STRESS POINTS”, “RETENTION IN ORIGINAL
APPEARANCE”, & “CONCEAL THE INTERIORS
OF THE GARMENT”.
2. SEVERAL & DIFFERENT TYPES OF S.M ARE
USED FOR GARMENTS, BUT NOT ALL
GARMENTS REQUIRE S.M.
3. S.M ARE OFTEN UNIQUE TO THE SPECIFIC
FUNCTION FOR WHICH IT HAS BEEN
DEVELOPED.
4. THEY ARE AVAILABLE IN WIDE VARIETYS WITH
VARIETY OF PHYSICAL CHARACTERISTICS,
PERFORMANCES & COSTS.
5. MANUFACTURERS SHOULD DETERMINE THE
NEED FOR S.M IN A PARTICULAR STYLE
DURING SAMPLE DEVELOPMENT.
6. MATERIALS ARE SELECTED BASED ON
SPECIFIC FUNCTIONS.
7. MANUFACTURERS MAY ALSO CONSIDER
“MATERIAL SPECIFICATIONS”, “ TECHNICAL
INFORMATION”, & “PRODUCT TEST RESULTS”
BY SUPPLIERS.
8. PRODUCERS OF THE PRODUCT OFTEN TEST
THEIR PRODUCT IN THEIR OWN LABS.
9. MANUFACTURERS MAY ALSO DO THE TEST IN
THE FIRM BCOZ OF CANGES IN THE STYLE,
PIECE GOODS, & MATERIALS.
10. USE OF IMPROPER S.M BECOMES APPARENT
AFTER A PEROD OF TIME.
 COMPACTIBILITY FACTORS
1. FOR COMAPCTIBILITY TWO THINGS ARE IMP.
“ASTHETIC” & “PERFORMANCE”. THESE
PROPERTIES AFFECT THE COMAPCTIBILITY OF
S.M WITH FABRIC & APPLICATION METHODS.
2. IT IS NOT NECESSARY THE CHARACTERISTIC
OF EACH & INDIVIDUAL MATERIALS.
3. THE FACTORS THAT AFFECT THE
COMPACTIBILTY ARE “ HAND”,
“FLEXIBILITY”, “HEAT SENSITIVITY”,
“PRESSURE SENSITIVITY”.
 INTERLININGS
1. ARE THE MATERIALS THAT ARE FUSED OR
SEWN TO THE SPECIFIC AREAS OF THE
GARMENT OR GARMENT COMPONENTS.
2. THEY PROVIDE “SHAPE”, “SUPPORT”,
“REINFORCEMENT”, “IMPROVED
PERFORMANCE” OF THE GARMENTS.
3. HUNDERDS OF INERLININGS ARE PROVIDED
BY THE SUPPLIERS TO DIFFERENT VARIETYS
OF FABRICS.
4. BUT SOMETIMES SPECIAL INTERLININGS ARE
ENGINEERED BY SUPLLIERS.
5. SELECTION OF INTERLININGS WITH
APPROPRIATE PROPERTIES FOR FABRIC &
STYLE REQUIRES KNOWLEDGE,PROCESS TO BE
USED & COMPACTIBITLITY FACTORS..ETC.
6. AS STYLING REQIURES CHANGE, PRODUCERS
OF INTERLININGS CREATE NEW VARIETY OF
FABRICS WITH DIFFERENT WEIFHTS & FIBRE
CONTENT & ALSO BULKINESS.
 FUNCTIONS OF INTERLININGS
1.THE MAIN FUCTIONS OF INTERLININGS ARE
• TO GIVE GREAT PERFORMANCE
• TO GIVE ASTHETIC APPEARNACE.
2. PERFORMANCE:
• INTERLININGS PERFORMANCE MAY BE
EVALUATED BY 2 WAYS “PERFORMANCE
DURING PRODUCTION” & “PERFORMANCE IN
THE FINISHED GARMENT”.
3.MANUFACTURERS MAY SELCT CERTAIN TYPES
OF INTERLININGS TO GIVE “HANDLING” &
IMPROVE SEWABILITY OF THE FABRICS.
4. INTERLINGS ARE ALSO USED UNDER
EMBROIDERY TO STABILISE FABRICS FOR
BETTER STITCHING.
5. INTERLININGS MAY BE USED FOR
REINFORCEMENT & EXTENDED DURABILITY
OF “YOKES”, “ NECKLINES”, “BUTTONS”,
“BUTTON HOLES”.
 ASTHETICS
1. APPROPRIATE CHOSEN INTERLININGS PROVIDE
THE FOUNDATION FOR “SHAPE” & “HAND” OF
THE GARMENTS & STABILITY TO MAINTAIN THE
SAME DURING USE, CARE,& STORAGE.
2. A FIRM WITH HIGH QUALITY STANDARS MAY
DETERMINE THE SHRINKAGE OF EITHER
INTERLINING OR FABRIC IS UNACCEPTABLE.
3. THE HAND PROPERTY REFERS TO “DRAPE”,
“STIFFNESS” & “SOFTNESS” OF THE MATERIAL
USED IN THE GARMENT.
4. THE FACTORS THAT AFFECT THE HAND ARE
“CHEMICAL COMPOSITION”, “STRUCTURE”,
“COATING”, & “RESINS” MAY AFFECT THE
HAND PROPERTY.
5. A INTERLINING MAY BE STIFF BUT LIGHT
WEIGHTED WITHOUT BULK. STIFFNESS IS
REQUIRED TO THOSE GARMENTS THAT
REQUIRES A SUPPORT.
6. INTERLININGS WITH TOO STIFF CAUSE
ROLLED EDGES TO BREAK & BUCKLE.
7. SOME COLLAR STYLES REQUIRES SOFT, BUT
NOT LIMP.
 CHARACTERISTICS OF INTERLININGS
1. FACTORS THAT CONTRIBUTE THE
CHARCTERISTICS OF INTERLININGS ARE “FIBRE
CONTENT”, “WEIGHT”, & “FABRICATION”.
2. FABRIC CONTENT:
• FABRIC CONTENT CONTRIBUTES TO
“STRENGHT”, “HAND”, “WEIGHT”, &
“RESILENCY” OF THE INETERLINING.
• PLOYSTER & NYLON ARE OFTEN USED IN FIBRE
WEBS, WOVENS & KNITS TO CONTRIBUTE TO
STRENGTH, STABILITY, & RESILENCY.
• MONOFILAMENT NYLON FIBRE MAY BE USED
FOR STIFFNESS & RESILENCY PRODUCING
LIGHT WEIGHT MATERIAL WITH LITTLE BULK.
• THE CONTRIBUTION OF COTTON & RAYON IS
SOFTNESS & HAND. WOOL & HAIR FIBRES
MAY BE USED TO PROVIDE THE RESILENCY &
COMPACTIBILITY WITH WOOL PIECES GOODS.
• IDENTIFICATION OF THE FIBRE CONTENT OF
GARMENT INTERLINING IS NOT REQUIRED BY
LAW WHICH MAKES IT DIFFICULT FOR
CONSUMERS TO RELATE INERLIING
PERFORMANCE TO FIBRE CONTENT.
• WEIGHT:
• INTERLINIG ARE AVAILABLE IN WIDE RANGE
OF WEIGHS FROM 0.4 TO 4.0 OUNCES/SQ.YD.
• HEAVIER INTERLININGS PROVIDE MORE
SUPPORT FOR HEAVIER & STRUCTURED
GARMENTS SUCH AS COATS,SUITS.
• LIGHT WEIGHT INTERLININGS PROVIDE
RESILENCY & SOFT HAND & SOME SUPPORT.
 FABRICATION
1. INERLININGS ARE AVAILABLE IN 4 BASIC
FORMATIONS.
• FIBRE WEBS
• WOVENS
• KNITS
• FOAM LAMINATES
2. FIBRE WEBS MAY HAVE “LESS STRENGHT”,
BUTDO NOT RAVEL IN HANDLING.
3. THE PERFORMANCE OF FIBRE WEB INTERLINING
IS CLOSELY LINKED TO “FIBRE CONTENT”,
“FABRIC WEIGHT”, “FIBRE ORIENATION”, IN THE
WEB.
4. FIBRE WEBS ARE HAVING FIBRES OF
“RANDOMLY DISTRIBUTED” OR “ORIENTED IN
LENGTH WISE DIRECTION”.
5. LENGTH WISE ORIENT WEBS PROVIDE
STRENGHT IN LENGTHWISE DIRECTION.
6. PILLING IS MAJOR PROBLEM OFTEN
ASSOCIATED WITH FIBRE WEBS SINCE FIBRE
WEBS TEND TO HAVE LOW ABRASION
RESISTANCE.
7. ABRASION FROM THE GARMENT ITSELF MAY
CAUSE PILLS TO FORM WITH THE SHELL
FABRIC.
WOVEN INTERLININGS:
1.ARE USUALLY PLAIN WEAVE & PRODUCED BY
ALMOST EVERY FIBRE.
2.THE FABRICATION PROCESS IS EXPENSIVE.
3.THESE INTERLINES HAVE RAVELING &
SHRINKAGE PROBLEM.
4.THE PERFORMANCE OF THE INTERLINING CAN
ALTER THE PERFORMANCE OF SHELL FABRIC.
5.WOVEN INTERLININGS USED IN COLLARS,
FRONT PLACKET, CUFFS.
KNIT INTERLININGS:
1.USED FOR INTERLINING ARE PRIMARILY WARP
KNIT TRICOTS, RASCHELS.
2.THESE INTERLINIGS ARE PRODUCED IN
VARIETY OF WEIGHTS.
FOAM SUBSTRATES:
1.MAY BE LAMINATED TO SHELL FABRICS OR
LININGS TO IMPROVE BODY & INCREASE
STIFFNESS.
2.FOAM CAN ALSO PROVIDES INSULATION TO
THE SHELL FABRICS.
INTERLINING APPLICATIONS:
THERE ARE 2 BASIC MEANS OF APPLYING
INTERLININGS.
• FUSIBLE INTERLININGS
• NON- FUSIBLE INTERLININGS.
1.FUSIBLE INTERLININGS:
• ARE FABRICATIONS COATED WITH FOAM OF
RESIN OR ADHESIVES THAT SERVES AS A
BONDING AGENT TO HOLD THE INTERLINIGS
TO THE SHELL FABRICS.
• THE SHELL FABRICS MAY BE OF WOVENS,
KNITS.
• F.I MUST BE FUSED TO SHELL FABRIC PRIOR
TO THE CONSTRUCTION OF THE GARMENT
COMPONENT.
• THE FUSIBLE PROCESS USUALLY REQUIRES
THE GARMENT PIECES BE INDIVIDUALLY
MATCHED WITH INTERLING PIECES & THEN
FUSED TOGETHER.
• FUSED GARMENTS COMPONENTS HAVE
MORE WEIGHT, DO NOT RAVEL & EASY TO
HANDLE WHILE SEWING.
• FUSING IS PROCESS OF BONDING FABRIC LAYER
BY APPLICATION OF HAET & PRESSURE FOR A
SPECIFIC AMOUNT OF TIME.
• THE TIME REQIURED FOR FUSING IS CALLED
“DWELL TIME”.
• THE PRECISE OF FUSING PROCESS DEPENDS ON 3
ELEMENTS.
• HAET SOFETNS THE RESIN ON THE INTERLINE
• PRESSURE THAT RESIN & FORCES IT ON TO THE
FABRIC SURFACE.
• TIME NEEDED FOR APPLICATION OF HAET &
PRESSURE.
• COOLING TIME IS ALSO NECESSARY TO ALLOW
THE RESIN TO SET IN THE FABRIC.
• FUSING MAY ASLO REQUIRES MORE LABOUR
INITIALLY BUT IT MAY ALSO REDUCE HANDLING
& IRREGULARITIES IN ASSEMBLING.
• THE TYPES OF EQUIPMENT USED IN THE FUSING
IS
• ROLLER PRESSES
• FLAT BED PRESSES
• CONTINEOUS PRESSING MACHINE
• IRONS
• ROLLER PRESSES ARE OCCASSIONALLY USED
FOR FUSING INTERLININGS.
• THEY HAVE MORE CONSISTENCY IN HEAT,
PRESSURE & TIME.
• FOR FLATBED PRESSES GARMENT PIECES ARE
PLACED FACE DOWN ON CONTINEOS TRAY OR
CARRIER & FUSING INTERLININGS ARE PLACED
ON ACCURATLY ON THE GARMENT PIECE.
• THE FUSED PIECES ARE STACKED & BUNDLED
FOR NEXT PROCESS.
• CONTINEOUS PRESSING M/C ARE HAVING
HIGH PRODUCTIVIY & CONROLLED HAET &
PRESSURE THROUGH OUT THE PROCESS.
• HE INITIAL COST IS VERY HIGH.
• THE IRONS HAVE LIMITED USE IN FUSING
INTERLINING. THEY MAY BE USED FOR
APPLICATION OF SMALL PIECES OF F.I TO
REINFORCE STRESS POINTS IN THE GARMENT.
• THE MAIN PROBLEM WITH IRON FUSING IS
INCONSISTENCY OF PRESSURE , DWELL TIME
& TEMP.
• SEWING INTERLININGS:
• SEWIN INTERLINING ARE SEWN DIRECTLY
COMPONENT. THEY REQUIRE EXTRA
HANDLING & MANIPULATIONS DURING
SEWING PROCESS.
• SEWING REQIURES PROPER PLACEMENT &
ACCURATE GRAIN ALLINGMENT. THEY MAY
STRETCH OR DISTORT AS SEWN CAUSING
SEAM PUCKERING & TWISTING.
• IF APPLIED CORRECTLY SEWN –IN INTERLINES
ARE TEND TO HAVE FEWER PERFORMANCE
PROBLEMS THAN FUSIBLES.
• SEWIN INTERLINES MAY ATTACHED AT
DIFFERNET STAGES DURING CONSRUCTION
OF COMPONENT.
• THE MORE SEWING THAT IS DONE TO SECURE
THE INTERLININGS, THE LESS THE DISTORTION
OF THE GARMENT.