Winter Internship Report

A
Report
On

Winter Internship
By,
Rajesh Kasetty
 Winter Internship Report

CHAPTER – 2
SAMPLING FLOW CHART
 Winter Internship Report
PRODUCTION FLOW CHART
 Winter Internship Report

CHAPTER – 3
MACHINERY INFRASTRUCTURE

Qty
S.No Machine Make Model Remarks
Available
8 Colour
Carousal Printing 8C 10
/Pallets
1 machine / T-Shirt Chest Sigma 12
7 Colour 2
Printing machine
/Pallets
CF-2002 2.5 KW 4
Heat Transfer Press / CF- 2002 2.0 KW 5
2 Cheran 1.3 KW
Digital Fusing CF-2003 1
twin head
3 Electric Curing Machine Cheran Custom 18kw 1
Screen Preparation
4 Custom Made 1
&Exposing Machines
5 Colour Matching Para Mount Spetra Vision 1

MAKE

SIGMA : SIGMA INDUSTRIAL, KURICHI INDUSTRIAL ESTATE POST,

COIMBATORE - 641021

CHERAN : CHERAN MACHINES INDIA PVT LTD, 65/1,

CHINNAVEDAMPATTI (PO), GANAPATHY, COIMBATORE - 641 006

Plant Lay-Out
Winter Internship Report
 Winter Internship Report

CAROUSAL PRINTING MACHINE / T-SHIRT CHEST PRINTING

MACHINE

These machines will be available both in automatic and semi automatic

machines andwith 4, 6, 8, 10 & 12 multi colour models. The double spring
model gives the customers a maintenance free performance of the machine.
Electric heat panels included in the machine.

Features

• Index pin /Bearing Registration

• Multi directional Micro registration
• Double spring Model
• Sturdy side screen clamps
• Off contact adjustment
• Interchangeable pallets
• Fire/Water proof pallets
• High energy efficient infra-red Heating Panel
o Easy adjustment
o Castor wheel mounted for easy mobility

Technical Specifications

Model 8c 7
No. of Color 8 colour 12 Color
Printing Area 20" x 30" 20" x 30"
Machine Dia 12.5 feet 16 Feet
Machine Height 4 Feet 4 Feet
 Winter Internship Report

HEAT TRANSFER PRESS / DIGITAL FUSING

This range of fusing machines is capable of generating high volume and

hard pressing on garments and other fabrics. These highly powerful machines
are planned in way that they would consume very minimal energy and would
work with optimum efficiency.

Features

• Used As Heat Transfer Press, Designs To Be Transfered To The

Garments / Fabrics / Leathers/ Rexin /Nylon / Polyprpelene/ Bags & etc.
• Can be used for fusing like plastisol priniting, khadi, pigment & etc
• Silent operation and easy to maintain
• MicroSoft based digital temperature & timer controller.
• Die casted aluminum heater plates are used to assure a long service life
and even heat distribution.
• Automatic Double Stroke operation & production monitoring.
• Can Be Used As Flat Bed Fusing Machine For Collar And Cuff Fusing
• Platen Size Can Be Increased Up to 20" X 30".

Technical Specifications

Model CF2002 CF2003

Platen Size 400mm X 500mm 250mm X 380mm
Platens 1 2
Power 230 V,50Hz,11Amps 230 V,50Hz,5.5Amps
Heater 2.5 Kw 1.2Kw
Air Pressure 0 to 8 bar 0 to 8 bar
Timer 0 to 99 Sec 0 to 99 Sec
Temperature 2500C 2500C
 Winter Internship Report

ELECTRIC CURING MACHINE

These premium quality machines are equipped with PTFE Teflon
Perforated Sheet for Conveyor to give long life and hence have very powerful
heating and cooling effects that help in the purpose of drying.

Electric Curing

• Radiant Quarts heater for immediate heading and cooling

• Variable speed control system

Technical Specifications

Machine Size (l x b x h) 14 x 3.5 x 4 feet

Power 440V - 26A
Heater 18 Kw
Working Area 900mm x 3000mm
Temperature 200oC
Operating Speed 33 f/min
Conveyor Drive 180V DC
Blower 230 / 30 W AC
 Winter Internship Report

SPECTRAVISION
spectraVISION™ is an economic colour matching model which provides a
standardized and controlled environment for visual assessment of colours with
strict adhering to international norms. The cabinet having five standard light
sources.

EQUIPMENT

The equipment wil have all standard tube lights & bulbs for accurate Color
Matching. In order to safeguard the expensive & sensitive tube lights
spectraVISION™ is fitted with Electronic/ballasts for Instant start & power
saving.

TECHNICAL DETAILS

A. DIMENSIONS

Main Supply : 230V, 50 Hz, AC Single Phase

Size of viewing board : (380 x 380) mm
Angle of Viewing board : 45°
Hour totaliser : 0 – 10,000 Hour, L/C : 1 Min.

B. LIGHT SOURCES

Artificial Daylight Fluorescent Lamps (D-65) : 02 Nos. (18 W)

Tungsten Filament Lamps (Inc A Lamps) : 04 Nos. (40 W)
Cool White Fluorescent Lamp (CWF) : 01 Nos. (18 W)
 Winter Internship Report

Triphosphor Fluorescent Lamp (TL-84) : 01 Nos. (18 W)

Ultra-Violet Black Lamp : 01 Nos. (18 W)
 Winter Internship Report

CHAPTER – 4
SCREEN PRINTING
Screen printing is a process, where ink is mechanically applied to a substrate via
the use of a screen and squeegee. In its basic form, screen printing is a very simple
process.

Each colour of the design requires an individual screen so we must separate the
design into its component colours. This is done on the computer and each colour
separation is printed to a transparent sheet.

Original Black Yellow

Design Colors

Separations

The screen is a rigid frame of wood or aluminium that has a fine monofilament
nylon mesh stretched over it. This mesh is then coated with a light sensitive emulsion
that will become the stencil through which the ink will pass when printed.

Blank Screen Coated Screen

The screen is then mounted, with the separation, in an exposure unit. This machine
exposes the screen to high intensity UV light.

Exposing the Screen

 Winter Internship Report

When the UV light hits the emulsion a chemical reaction hardens the emulsion
making it water and solvent resistant. The separation acts as a shield to block the light
in certain areas of the screen. These soft areas are then rinsed away with water to
create the open area of the stencil.

Black Screen Yellow Screen

The screens are then mounted in the press and registered, or aligned, so that
each colour prints in the proper location relative to the other colours. Ink is loaded into
the screens and squeegees are installed. The actual printing is accomplished by
pushing ink through the screen and onto the shirt with the squeegees. As the squeegee
scrapes across the screen it fills the stencil with ink while simultaneously bending the
mesh down to transfer the ink to the shirt.

To create the composite image on the shirt, individual colours are printed then
the shirt is moved to the next colour. After test prints are run to check alignment,
shirts are loaded one by one and printed.

PRINTING MECHANICS
 Winter Internship Report

Once all the colours have been applied to the shirt it is removed from the press. The
ink on the shirts is still "wet" at this point and needs to be "dried".

4-COLOUR PROCESS
4-colour process is a more advanced separation and printing technique that uses
4 colours of transparent ink to produce the colours from the original design. The four
colours, Cyan, Magenta, Yellow, and black (CMYK), are printed as halftones that
interact with each other and the white background of the shirt to create colour and
tonal values. A wide spectrum of colours can be represented but some colours are
impossible to produce.

4-color process is used mostly for photographic or digitally created designs

because many shades and colors can be created with only four screens. High screen
counts and screen frequencies are required to create the tiny halftone dots.

One drawback to 4-color process is that the garment must be white.

Original Cyan Magenta Yellow Black

Design Colors

Separations

As Each Color is Printed

MESH COUNT

The mesh count is the number of threads per inch (tpi) used to weave the mesh.
Typical mesh counts for screen printing t-shirts range from 85 tpi to 355 tpi. The mesh
count defines basically two things: The thickness of the ink deposit and the size of
halftones that can be printed.

The lower mesh counts, 85-110 tpi, have a relatively large thread diameter and
more space between the threads (called "open area" ). This allows for a thicker deposit
 Winter Internship Report

and more ink to pass through the screen. Typically, lower mesh counts are used for
specialty inks (like glitter) and when a thick deposit is needed on dark garments.

The high mesh counts, 305-355 tpi, have a very small thread diameter and less
open area. These are used when fine detail and high halftone are needed.

Mesh Count for Different Garment Prints

1. Glitter 25–60
2. Flock adhesive 45–125
3. Puff-up colors 55–125
4. Overprint 80 –110
5. Pigment ink printing areas/lines 110 –175
6. Plastisol 1 125–305
7. Pigment inks, half-tone 155–255
8. Sublimation transfer 195–305

Mesh Specifications

Mest Thread Mesh Open Fabric Weight

count diameter opening surface thickness
cm mesh/inch Micron micron % micron g/m2
5 12 500 1500 56 850 271
6 16 400 1267 58 780 208
7 18 350 1079 57 675 186
8 20 350 900 52 685 212
9 24 250 860 60 455 145
10 25 300 700 49 576 195
12 30 250 583 49 470 162
12 35 300 533 41 585 234
14 40 300 414 34 595 273
16 40 200 425 46 370 139
16 50 250 375 36 485 217
20 50 150 350 49 375 98
20 50 200 300 36 385 173
24 60 150 267 41 285 117
28 70 120 237 44 215 87
30 76 120 213 41 225 94
32 80 100 213 46 165 69
36 90 100 178 41 178 78
40 100 100 150 36 190 87
43 110 80 152 43 135 60
48 120 80 130 38 145 62
56 140 60 120 44 85 44
59 150 60 110 42 98 46
64 160 60 100 37 105 50
72 180 50 90 41 82 39
80 200 50 75 36 90 43
100 250 40 60 36 65 35
120 305 40 43 25 70 42
130 330 40 37 23 75 45
Winter Internship Report
 Winter Internship Report

TYPES OF PRINTS
PLASTISOL

The most common ink used in commercial garment decoration. Good colour
opacity onto dark garments and clear graphic detail with, as the name suggests, a
more plasticized texture. This print can be made softer with special additives or heavier
by adding extra layers of ink.

Plastisole inks require heat (approx. 150°C) to cure the print. The inks contain
polyvinyl Chlorides mixed with resins and pigments these inks have got a property by
which the prints get dried only with the application of that. They have soft handle and
resist cracking when stretched. Main thing is curing process in Plastisole printing. So it
must be fused for the better finish.

Due to excess phthalate in PVC, this is banned for Children’s wear. Due to
plasticity in the nature it cannot be ironed directly, it should be ironed or fused with
the help of fusing paper only.

WATER-BASED INKS (Pigment Print)

These penetrate the fabric more than the Plastisole inks and create a much
softer feel. Ideal for printing darker inks onto lighter coloured garments. Also useful for
larger area prints where texture is important. Some inks require heat or an added
catalyst to make the print permanent.

PVC/ PHALATE FREE

Relatively new breed of ink and printing with the benefits of Plastisole but
without the two main toxic components - soft feeling print.

FOIL

This printing method is based on the use of metallic foil paper of aluminium or
copper one. The print fixation method is similar to transfer printing. This print method
is popular amongst youngsters. A glue is printed onto the fabric and then foils applied
for a mirror finish. Generally gold or silver foils used.

DISCHARGE INKS

Used to print lighter colours onto dark background fabrics, they work by
removing the dye already present in the garment and apply new colour. This gives a
much softer texture, since this technique can only be used for pigment prints (water
based colours). Rangolite-C is the main commercially using discharging agent.
 Winter Internship Report

FLOCKING

This process involves printing of glue on the fabric first, applying the fiber flock
on the gel printed by keeping the fabric on special table (electro statically charged).
And it requires a little high time for curing than normal prints. 120 seconds at 160C will
be sufficient for curing.
This print technique will give unique finish of velvet touch.

GLITTER/SHIMMER

Metallic flakes are suspended in the ink base to create this sparkle effect.
Usually available in gold or silver but can be mixed to make most colours.

METALLIC

Similar to glitter, but smaller particles suspended in the ink. A glue is printed
onto the fabric then a nanoscale fibres applied on it.

EXPANDING INK (PUFF)

An additive to Plastisole inks which raises the print off the garment, creating a
3D feel. In this method when the paste is printed and dries it look like normal printing
garments but once it is cured the prints gets raised from the surface of fabric. Thereby
the print will have the embossed effect.

CAVIAR BEADS

again a glue is printed in the shape of the design, to which small plastic beads
are then applied – works well with solid block areas creating an interesting tactile
surface.

GLOSS

A clear base laid over previously printed inks to create a shiny finish.

NYLOBOND

A special ink additive for printing onto technical or waterproof fabrics.

SUEDE INK

Suede is a milky coloured additive that is added to Plastisole. With suede

additive you can make any colour of Plastisole have ‘suede’ feel. It is actually a puff
blowing agent that does not bubble as much as regular puff ink. The directions vary
 Winter Internship Report

from manufacturer to manufacturer, but generally 50% suede additive to your normal
Plastisole.

HIGH DENSITY PRINTING

This is one of the recent developments in printing which gives thick prints on the
surface of garments which is achieved by using thickener indirect films used for making
the screens. They are available in 100 to 70 micron thickness and Plastisole inks and
printing through these screens and cured then you shall have a thick deposit of the
printing ink on the surface of the fabric which gives a three-dimensional effect.

KHADI PRINTING

This is done on light or dark coloured grounds. It consists of titanium dioxide

with other auxiliaries. The important factor in printing of this is right combination of
titanium dioxide and proper choice of binder. It will give better fastness and soft
handle.

ORGANIC PRINT

Organic print range covers the natural dyes, and the other pigment dyes which lies
under the specifications made by G.O.T.S. for Printing Organic Dyes the company/
manufacturer should get the certification from G.O.T.S.
 Winter Internship Report

SILICONE PRINT

PVC (plastisole) and PA inks have some serious drawbacks – such as inferior
wash and weather durability, poor hand feel and tackiness – that limit their use,
particularly in high-end apparel applications. In addition, some of these products could
contain plasticizers and have other negative environmental effects.

To counter these problems, printing mills tried silicone inks because of their
good washing durability, hand feel, elongation properties and environmental
friendliness.

Features

• High elongation : Suitable for fabric with 15-20% spandex

content

• Excellent durability : Wash-resistant

• Good hand feel : Soft, non-sticky handle with no blocking

problem upon folding

• Environmentally sound : Does not contain organotin, phthalate,

formaldehyde, PVC or solvent

• Color fastness : No color migration (passes the 48 hours

at 70°C [158°F] test), even between red and white

• Improved fashion appearance : Semi-gloss finish with no creasing

• Heat resistant: Ironable, no-melting

• Suitable for dot printing : More breathable, high resolution and

alternative looks

• Easier to get 3D effects : Sharp edges and smooth surface

 Winter Internship Report

COST, M.O.Q of the Various Types of Prints

Print Type Cost of M.O. Curing Suitability Durabili
Print in Q / for ty
Rs. Fusing Children Rating
Sticker Print 1 2500 Fusing No 1.5
Plastisole Print 1.5 1000 Fusing No 2.5
Pigment Print 2 1000 Curing Yes 3
Non-Pvc Print 2.5 1000 Curing Yes 2.5
Distressed (Kadi) 2.5 1000 Curing Yes 2.5
Print
Foil Print 3.5 500 Fusing Yes 2
Gel Print 3 1000 Curing Yes 3
Discharge Print 3 500 Curing Yes 3
Glitter Print 3.5 1000 Curing Yes 2
Sugar Print 5 1000 Curing No 2
Metallic Print 4 1000 Curing No 2
High Density 5 500 Curing Yes 3.5
Print (6 Coats)
Puff Print 3.5 1000 Curing Yes 3
Flock Print 5 1000 Curing Yes 2.5
Silicone Print 8 500 Curing Yes 4.5
Organic Print 6.5 1000 Curing Yes 3
Bits Printing 4 2000 Fusing No 2

The cost and moq will change w.r.t with the size, density, sharpness,
thickness of the print. The values shown in the table and chart are for the print
strike-off attached( having 3 X 4 inches with single colour)

Durability Rating : 1-Poor ……. 5-Excellent

Winter Internship Report
 Winter Internship Report

COST M.O.Q, DURABILITY COMARISION CHART FOR DIFF. TYPES

 Winter Internship Report

Common Defects in Garment Printing

• Improper alignment
Causes: Improper setting of two different screens of different colour
• Colour spread
Causes: Less viscosity of print paste is less. Base fabric not fixed properly.
• Improper mixing of print paste
Causes: As the name itself implies the print paste ingredients are not mixed
properly leading to some yellowing or stain marks on print.
• Scrimps
Causes: The print is done on folded fabric.
• Smear
Causes: Printing is done on seams which will be of different thickness leading in
spreading and blurring.
• Difference in texture
Causes: Improper fusing
• Improper colour matching
Causes: If printed colour is not matching with standard.
• Stick in
Causes: Some dust and lint which get chock in screen holes leads in improper
design.
• Doubling or blurring
Causes: Improper fixing of base fabric or screen.
• Lint or thread marks
Causes: Any loose threads come in print area will lead to thread marks on print.
• Colour stains
Causes: Improper handling of material.
• Glue streak
Causes: The gum which used to stick garment and/or the gel which is printed
on fabric (for foil, flock etc.) strikes out of fabric through back side.
• Low sharpness
Causes: Improper mesh selection , damaged screen.
• Coloured/White spots
Causes: Improper screen preparation.
• Distorted print
Causes: printing of second coat before drying 1st coat.
 Winter Internship Report

SCRIMPS

Printing done on the Folded fabric causes this Defect