3
South Lebanon in 1928 to pursue religious learning. Najaf sits astride the sluggishEuphrates, on a baked plain 150 kilometers south of Baghdad. At the heart of this city of domes is the revered tomb of the Imam ‘Ali, the Prophet Muhammad’s cousin and son-in-law. In past times of prosperity and peace, this gateway to the predominantly Shi‘itesouth of Iraq teemed with pilgrims from throughout the Shi‘ite world, who soughtcommunion with God and fed the city’s hoards of beggars. But Najaf also encouragedanother kind of purposeful travel, for alongside the shrines were some of the mostrenowned Shi‘ite seminaries of learning. Great ayatollahs, scholars, and studentsassembled from throughout the Shi‘ite world—the majority from Iran, others from Iraq,Lebanon, the Arab Gulf, Afghanistan, and the Indian subcontinent. In Najaf they studiedsacred law, theology, and philosophy, according to the medieval pedagogical methods of the Islamic seminary. The schools were free of government control and submitted to noexternal academic authority. No presidents, deans, or masters presided. The ayatollahsmaintained their seminaries through donations and alms, which arrived from throughoutthe Shi‘ite world. Students paid no tuition, teachers received no salaries; all drew smallstipends which allowed them to pursue pious learning in conditions of the utmostausterity. Some eventually returned to their own lands to preach; others spent lifetimesin the seminaries. Stories of deprivation and hunger suffered by students and teachersfilled many memoirs of life in Najaf, but all attested to the city’s tenacious hold uponthose who dwelled within it.Upon entering the city, pilgrims and scholars stepped out of time. Shi‘ism had survivedas a negation of temporal Islamic history. In the Shi‘ite view, the ship of Islam had beenrun aground immediately after the death of the Prophet by those who ignored hisspecific instruction that his son-in-law ‘Ali be placed at its helm. Later the usurperswould compound the crime of disobedience with that of murder, when they slew ‘Ali’sson, Husayn rather than recognize his divine right to rule. There followed a succession of violations against the just claims of ‘Ali’s descendants and their supporters. They andtheir truths were forced underground by a false Islam. So thoroughly did the usurperssuppress truth that the Shi‘ite tradition did not expect wrongs to be righted before theend of eschatological time. The partisans of ‘Ali nursed their grievances, mourned theirmartyrs, and scoffed at the wars waged by false Muslims for the expansion and defenseof Islam. For them, history itself had gone into hiding. Nowhere did temporal time seemso completely suspended as in Najaf and Karbala, the burial places of ‘Ali and Husayn.There Shi‘ites came as pilgrims to lament the injustices of this world, and there theywere brought for burial to speed them to the next. Najaf did not always know tranquility,but a succession of Sunni Islamic empires recognized its sacred character and grantedimmunities that formed a wall around the city.The sacred space on the Euphrates traditionally gripped the imagination of young Shi‘itesin Jabal ‘Amil, the mountainous south of Lebanon. Through some study in Najaf, one
Add a Comment