Professional Documents
Culture Documents
F eatures
— One-hundred ninety nine 2 x 3 swatches, including
chiffon, muslin, tweed, canvas, taffeta, denim, and
satin; fiber and yarns are also provided.
ISBN: 978-1-56367-728-1
™xHSLFQDy67 281zv*:+:!:+:! b
Swatch Reference Guide for Fashion Fabrics
B F A , M F A
T h e F a s h i o n I n s t i t u t e o f D e s i g n & M e r c h a n d i s i n g
F a i r c h i l d B o o k s
New Yor k
All rights reserved. No part of this book covered by the copyright hereon
may be reproduced or used in any form or by any means—graphic,
electronic, or mechanical, including photocopying, recording, taping, or
information storage and retrieval systems—without written permission of
the publisher.
Preface xv
Chapter 5 Yarns 31
Swatch Boards
Preface xv
The Objectives of the Text xvi
The Study of Textiles xvi
The Organization of the Text xvi
Constructing the Book xvi
Instructions xvii
Acknowledgments xix
vii
E x ten d e d T a b l e o f C o ntents
viii
Swatch Boards
E x ten d e d T a b l e o f C o ntents
ix
xi
S w a tc h B o a r d C o ntents
xii
S w a tc h B o a r d C o ntents
xiii
S w a tc h B o a r d C o ntents
xiv
E
veryday we touch the subject of this book; we run
our hands over it in our favorite boutique, hang it in
our closets, and drape it on our bodies, and yet the
science behind the textiles we wear continues to elude us.
The intention of this book is to demystify the science and
make it useful for anyone in the fashion industry: students,
teachers, stylists, buyers, designers, colorists, in short, for
just about any fashion professional who can benefit from
a better understanding of how and why fibers and fabrics
work.
The text uses simple, direct language that is not spe-
cific to textile scientists, but rather language that is famil-
iar to the industry at large. Fashion and the apparel trade
require textile science to achieve the appropriate perfor-
mance of the product; however, the science in this book
has a different focus from most textile science texts. The
goal of this book is not to soften the science but to focus
it in a way that is more accessible. Instead of an in-depth
analysis of the molecular structure of a fiber, the text focus-
es on the relevant performance expectations of each fiber
and subsequent elements of textiles.
A solid understanding of basic textile science will as-
sist professionals in making better choices in fibers and
fabrics for their chosen end products. This text strikes the
necessary balance between scientists and designer. It culls
the information available to the textile scientist and pres-
ents only the material directly relevant to the designer or
product developer.
This book brings together all of the elements of a
textile together into a common place. With all the infor-
mation in one location, students can spend less time at-
tempting to connect the dots and more time applying the
concepts.
xv
P ref a ce
xvi
P ref a ce
xvii
A
n undertaking of this sort is truly a collabora-
tive project, and there are many people I wish to
thank for their patience, encouragement, and sup-
port. I am grateful for the support of Carol Shaw Sutton,
who nurtured a love of textiles and helped me to see the
world through fiber eyes. B. J. Sims and Maribeth Baloga
were each essential parts of my education for this subject.
Amanda Starling provided the motivation and impetus
for this book. Jacob Kaprelian of Uniprints, Peter Krauz
of Trimknits, and Nori Hill of Texollini were each kind
enough to custom produce fabrics for this project. Rubin
Schubert and the crew at Ragfinders generously provided
many of the exciting fabrics found in this resource. Anne
Bennion offered support and resources and Tom Young
contributed much needed research. My technical support
team, colleagues, and good friends have been and continue
to be Ben Amendolara, Cassandra Durant Hamm, and
Judy Picetti. I truly could not have put this together with-
out their insights, support, and faith. I also wish to thank
the Fairchild team for their initial vision and realization
of the final product. A personal thanks to Martin, Tim,
and Maria at Perry Color Card for shepherding the fabrics
through the swatch cutting process. Invaluable assistance
in the assembly of this project was diligently provided by
Mariah Connell and Chad Simpson. I am appreciative of
the patience of the rest of my family during the course of
this three-year project: Amanda, Diana, Mike, Kim, and
Alyssa. Thank you all for your generosity, caring, and sup-
port. Most of all, I want to thank Jim Young, who traveled
with me on every wild goose chase, was my personal editor
on this project (and in life), and my heart in this book.
xix
T h e Te x t i l e Cy c l e : F r o m F i b e r t o Fas h i o n
S w a t c h R e f e r e n c e G u i d e f o r F a s h i o n F a b r i c s
T h e T e x t i l e C y c l e : Fr o m F i b e r t o F a s h i o n
S w a t c h R e f e r e n c e G u i d e f o r F a s h i o n F a b r i c s
Plain Weaves
S w a t c h R e f e r e n c e G u i d e f o r F a s h i o n F a b r i c s
38
Extremely Light Weight (i.e., lingerie) 0–1 oz. or Chiffon dresses/blouses, sheers
< 1 oz.
Light Weight (i.e., top weight) 1–4 oz./sq. yd. Blouses, light summer dresses
Medium Weight* (i.e., top weight, bottom weight) 4–7 oz./sq. yd. Heavier top weight and lighter bottom weight slacks and
suitings
Medium to Heavy Weight (i.e., bottom weight) 7–9 oz./sq. yd. Bottom weight slacks and suitings, lightweight summer
jackets
Heavy Weight (i.e., jacket or blanket weight) > 9 oz. Blankets, heavier coats
*Medium weight comprises both top and bottom weights. This is a fabric that is generally considered heavy for a blouse and light for a pant.
P l a i n W e a v e s
39
Name:
Date:
Purpose: To determine why certain fibers are used for specific consumer end products, based on
evaluation of their properties.
Procedure
1. Research the Internet or retail catalogs to find • lace each ad securely and cleanly on a separate
P
five textile-based consumer apparel adver- 8 1/2×11-inch page. Alternatively, cut and paste
tisements that provide the generic fiber con- internet ads onto the page. The ads should in-
tent in the ad. clude the text from the ad describing the product
and the fiber content. Highlight the text that de-
• The five ads should include:
scribes the fiber content.
- one natural protein fiber ad
- one natural cellulose fiber ad • F ollow the ad with your typed, double-spaced
- one man-made cellulose fiber ad content, which should appear on the same
- two different synthetic fiber ads page as the ad.
2. P
roperty names: Identify the three most posi- Tips
tive properties for the fiber featured in each • hoose properties relevant to the consumer!
C
of the ads. Select properties that reflect the (For example, avoid the dimensional stability
best qualities of the fiber. of a wedding gown or a polyester bikini that
will keep you warm!)
3. D
efinitions of properties: Define each of the
three properties you have identified for each • void properties that are average. Sell this
A
advertisement to validate consumer end use. garment with the best possible properties!
For each property, provide a correct, specific
• Write about fiber, not fabric.
description stated in your own words. Finally,
explain why the fiber is relevant to the prod- • void trade names; this is a generic fiber as-
A
uct’s end use. signment.
4. P
repare a presentation on your findings in- • se formal properties: cheap and washable
U
cluding the following: are not properties.
Swatch 5 Swatch 6
© 2011 Fairchild Books, a division of Condé Nast Publications, Inc. Chapter 2: Fiber Classifications: Natural Fibers
7 8 9
Swatch Swatch Swatch
© 2011 Fairchild Books, a division of Condé Nast Publications, Inc. Chapter 2: Fiber Classifications: Natural Fibers
160 161
Swatch Swatch
Characteristics Characteristics
Laminated, or bonded, fabrics are made A quilted fabric is three layers of fabric
of two to three layers of fabric that are that are sewn together with a decorative
joined through any number of processes. stitch. Traditionally, the face is woven, the
Pleather is an embossed film that has backing could be anything, commonly a
been printed and laminated to a jersey (in muslin and the middle layer is a nonwoven
this example). The resultant fabric is an batting. This fabric has a 1 × 1 rib knit
imitation leather. backing.
Similarities
These fabrics are made by combining layers of fabrics, which changes the weight, hand, and
performance of the original fabric. Individually, the fabrics may be woven or knit, but the fabric
has a new value by virtue of being combined and layered.
© 2011 Fairchild Books, a division of Condé Nast Publications, Inc. Chapter 15: Minor Fabrications