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I managed to repair the faulty latch, as follows:1. The problem is the arm (5/16 shaft, with arm on theend) is missing its roll pins(must havefallen out):2. Shaft was loose & could be easily rotated & shifted, independent of the latch (zamac part).3. Measured the shaft as .3115" (just under 5/16" dia), and removed the shaft (in photo below,has a plastic knob on the left) with a 5/16" drift, measured the holes with a set of number drillblanks, & found the best fit as #43 (.089"). The closest roll pin size is 3/32" diameter (.0938),the length to pass through the zamac (a recessed hole) and the shaft, required a length of about1/2". I hadsprirolox light duty spr ing pins of this size, but only in 'light' duty (i would havepreferred touse 'heavy' duty, butdid not have this size), which are shown below: 4. Using tweezers to hold the pinin place, prior to driving in:5. Put a steel plate to protect the protruding zamac latch (otherwise you'll whack, & possibly
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Rehabilitating the Door Latch Assembly on an OldKitchenaid (Hobart) KDC-20A War Horse Dishwasher
 
break the zamac): 6. Use a wide diameter pin punch to start the pin in the hole: Use a smaller (3/32" dia) pin punch, to recess the roll pin, so it is centered on shaft (endsprotrude from zamac of equal length, & do'nt stick out, to interfere with the latch body):I managed to put the arm on the wrong side (backward assembly), so remove the pin: place avee block beneath the latch body, press it out with a 3/32" pin punch, & start over:
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5/16" diameter drift I used to remove shaft:Shaft is now on the correct side:Use #43 drill blank in the other hole, to align the shaft. Insert roll pin in the other hole, lightlypress in with oversize punch, to set it:Tools you'll use for this repair: steel plate, pin punches, numbered drill blanks"
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