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Fabric_Form and Flat Pattern Cutting_ Designing Patterns

Fabric_Form and Flat Pattern Cutting_ Designing Patterns

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Published by: adnan on Nov 02, 2010
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©TechnicalUniversity ofLiberec 200
FABRIC, FORM and FLAT PATTERN CUTTING, DESIGNING PATTERNS
Blazena Musilova, FT TU Liberec, Department of Clothing TechnologyE-mail: blazena.musilova@tul.cz
FABRIC, FORM AND FLAT PATTERNFABRIC, FORM AND FLAT PATTERNCUTTING, DESIGNINGCUTTING, DESIGNINGPATTERNPATTERNSS
Close fitting garments made from stretch and jersey fabric, theseblocks are constructed to be smaller than the body measurements andto the body shape. Some adjustments to the horizontal measurementsmay have to be made, this should be related to the stretch andrelaxation of different fabrics. Most designs in stretch fabric are simplemodification of the basic blocks.
The examples in this chapterdemonstrate some particulartechniques.
 
©TechnicalUniversity ofLiberec 200
FABRIC, FORM and FLAT PATTERN CUTTING, DESIGNING PATTERNS
Blazena Musilova, FT TU Liberec, Department of Clothing TechnologyE-mail: blazena.musilova@tul.cz
Knitted fabric will stretch and mould around the body.Consequently, the amount of ease allowance can be reduced.How much reduction depends on the elasticity of the fabric.The final pattern production may have to be modified fora specific fabric.
Weft knitting is more extendable across, in the weft directionwarp knitting is firmer.
Woven fabric with a blend of elastan(Lycra) can have the abilityto stretch in either the warp or weft direction or both.Clothing pressure is a combination of garment, human body andthe mechanical interactions between them. True fitting tight -fitsportswear to the body shape can only by achieved by the useof a stretch fabric, which can expand and contract without bucklingor wrinkling to accommodate body movement.
Mechanical properties of the fabric 
 
©TechnicalUniversity ofLiberec 200
FABRIC, FORM and FLAT PATTERN CUTTING, DESIGNING PATTERNS
Blazena Musilova, FT TU Liberec, Department of Clothing TechnologyE-mail: blazena.musilova@tul.cz
31.6 %18.6 %
Back partFront par
The Swimsuit final pattern modification 
80% PA, 20% EA
   F …   t  e  n  s   i   l  e   f  o  r  c  e   [   N   /  m   ]
E…tensile strain[%]
80% PA, 20% EA
E…tensile strain[%]
   F …   t  e  n  s   i   l  e   f  o  r  c  e   [   N   /  m   ]
WeftWarp
 s  t  r e  t c  h  r e  l a  x a  t  i o  n

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