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*******Component Cleaning and Set-Up***************Component Cleaning and Set-Up***************Component Cleaning and Set-Up***************Component Cleaning and Set-Up********
*********************Cleaning*********************************************Cleaning*********************************************Cleaning*********************************************Cleaning************************
While most components may seem clean we like to disassemble them and look for crudin them. Some may have hanging metal shavings. These can be cut off with a razorblade. Some may have loose packing materials in them or other things. Some may stillhave machining oil on the surfaces. As Dryadsoul has pointed out with his pictorial theFuzion O-Ring has a massive amount of molding slag on one of the O- Rings that should beremoved.Most water blocks have an O-Ring to seal the top and bottom together. Be sure to put thisin a safe place where you wont lose it. Look carefully for any hanging metal shavings if youhave any cut them off with a razor blade. If you have a magnifying glass it doesn't hurt touse it. After you have inspected it and made sure that its clean soak it for a few minutes ina mixture of 90% distilled water and 10% white vinegar. That will help to kill any bacteriathat is in it. Rinse well several times with clean distilled water. I t wouldn't hurt to toss themin a bowl of rubbing alcohol also to make sure if there is any machining oil on it will comeoff also.Radiator cleaning. I like to fill my rad with the 90% distilled water and 10%white vinegarthat I use to clean the water blocks. Fill your radiator full and let it sit overnight. Shake itseveral times with your thumbs over the barbs. Rinse several times with hot distilledwater. You want to get all the vinegar residue out.
 
Thats basically it. You may want to rinse your new loop several time with plain distilledwater to make sure its totally clean before you add your coolant.I drain and flush my loop every three or four months at least. Some guys go longer with noproblems. I run 10% white vinegar and 90% distilled water in it for an hour or two and thendrain and run straight distilled water in it 3 or 4 times to get all the vinegar residue out ofit,you want to make sure you rinse it well vinegar is acidic and could cause corrosion if anyis left. I'm just a little freaky about keeping it clean. I figure if I get slime growing in theblocks it will interfere with thermal transfer.A drain-line is a great thing to cut into your loop. Just put a T in your lowest lineand put a length of tubing on it. I use a brass Fil-Port on the end of mine but you can plug itwith almost anything. I know I keep mine much cleaner now that it is so easy to drain andrefill. Just take the plug out of the res or T-Line so it will drain. You may have to tilt yourcase around some to get it all out. No need to run your pump to get it all out it will flow rightthrough the pump when its off so there is no reason to risk running your pump dry.I also remove the rubber O-Rings from my barbs then I use Permatex Red RTV sealant onthe top 2/3's of the barb threads. Clean the threads off well with alcohol to get any oils offthem. You need to screw them down snugly into the blocks or rad and let them cure for acouple of days before you use them .Be careful and don't turn them after it is cured or youwill break the bond. By doing this you you are able to tighten the barbs down fully andlessen the chance of leaks. I snug them down finger tight and wrench them down another1/2-3/4 turn. I just leave the little circle of sealant that comes up around the barb as anextra washer. Be careful doing this in pexi-glass parts as they may crack out on you. Don'tget any down in your blocks or rad either just coat the top 2/3's of the threads to avoidthis. You can get the Permatex Red RTV at any Auto-Store.
******************Loop Order******************************************Loop Order******************************************Loop Order******************************************Loop Order************************
I like to keep my res at the highest point to aid in bleeding. The pump underneath it sothat it will be gravity fed this will help keep you from having dry-starts. Dry-starts will ruinthe longevity of your pump if it doesn't just kill it out right. Always have the res or T-Lineright before the pump. In the case of the res if its not right before the pump you will starveit for water and kill your temp's. In the case of a T-Line it will make filling and bleedingmuch easier.
Res or T-Line? Res or T-Line? Res or T-Line? Res or T-Line? 
... They both have advantages and dis-advantages. A res will bleed fasterbut may slow down coolant velocity when it hits the res. But when velocity slows the coolantwill give up the small air bubbles also so it bleeds faster.A T-Line while slower to bleed will not slow down coolant velocity and it takes up muchless room in your comp.I like to use a bay res. I can put a thick phone book under the front of my case lay the radover on its side and be almost completely bleed in 5 minutes. Doing that keeps water overthe barbs in the back of the res. Just keep adding water as the foam dies down. Fast and
 
easy. I really like the big 2 ounce syringes they sell at DD. I just stick one in my res andsquirt a little in as needed. They are great for topping off a res.I run my loop res-pump-rad-cpu-any other blocks. I drop 1.5C-2.5C across my rad in theloop I'm using now. I want the coolest water possible hitting my CPU first. If you have to runseveral extra feet of tubing to get this order just run it however you need to. The extratubing would just cause restriction and higher temp's it would defeat the purpose.
 
****************Leak Testing***************************************Leak Testing***************************************Leak Testing***************************************Leak Testing***********************
I like to hook up all my components outside of the comp and leak test for at least 24hours before I put it in my case to leak test. I'm not testing the unions for leaks at this stageI'm testing the components themselves for failure. Just cut your tubing 3 or 4 barbs lengthoverlong so you can still use the tubing in your case. If you have a spare PSU to test with itsgreat. If you don't just jump the PSU in your comp to test. I know it sucks not having yourcomp but this is a very important step as far as I'm concerned. Much better safe thensorry. O-Rings in blocks can fail. Seals in pumps can blow out. You res may have a crack init. All you are doing at this stage is pressure testing your components.After you leak test your components its time to put it all in your case and jump your PSUand leak test again. This time is more for the tube to barb connections. You can lay piecesof paper in the bottom of your case and in other strategic positions to help catch smallerleaks. I always use an UV additive and a 4" cold cathode light to check for leaks. Even thedreaded small weeping leaks will show up under the UV lamp. I do this leak test for at leastanother 24 hours. At least this 24 hours will be productive since you are bleeding yourloop. For this second leak test go ahead and fill it with your coolant mix.It will take you a while to bleed out your loop. You can tilt your comp around to help getthe air out. Bubbles like to hide in fittings. Tap your finger or something on the tubes to getthe small bubbles off. If your coolant is milky looking you still have a lot of air in it. It will allwork out. A res will bleed faster then a T-Line.Leave your rad loose until the loop is bleed if possible at all. The majority of air will be inyour rad and if you shake it up and leave it lower it will help to get the air out.
*******************Coolant*********************************************Coolant*********************************************Coolant*********************************************Coolant**************************
If you have a VW or Audi dealership near you Pentosin can be bought pretty cheap. AllPentosin is is VW anti-freeze. I t comes in "VW Red" or VW Blue" add a few drops of "Tracer-Line" UV dye that you can buy at most auto-supply stores and your set for a while. It justtake a few drops of the Tracer-Line for your loop. The Pentosin can be bought on Amazonalso but I would think the shipping would be expensive for a liter and a half of it. Its only$10.00 or so for a liter and a half .The G11 is blue and the G12 is red.For every 40 ounces of distilled water I add on ounce of glycerin This helps in the thermaltransfer of the water and is a pump lube. I also add 1 or 2 drops of "Dawn" dish-washingliquid this helps to break the surface tension of the water helping temp's some. Then thefollowing.
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