Cheap-E-Stim

This document is designed to give the beginner a complete step-by-step introduction into making and using an e-stim
devise. It is designed for the newbie with little electrical skills, tools, or supplies. This gives anyone with a mild interest
in E-Stim to experience it in an easy, quick, and inexpensive fashion. There’s no need to spend $500 on a fancy box to
feel the fun of e-stim.

This is intended as an intro kit. There are many better trode designs and fancier boxes out there. Start here and if feels
good, search for more. However, even many long-time stimmers use a stereo-stim similar to this as their main pleasure
tool. There are many, many, many opinions on e-stimming. This is designed as a cookbook approach to get one started.
After this, start reading and experimenting and find what works best for your individual body.

There are three sections of this document. The first describes the construction of the amplifier box. This was originally
posted as the "$20, 20 minute easy e-stim" and there’s ongoing discussion there about it. I’ve added additional
instructional details, a simplified Tri-Phase wiring. I added the second section that was my posting on building a trode
set. Lastly, there’s a very brief set of instructions as to how it all hooks together.

Once the parts are collected, I think the average person could put this together in well under an hour and the total cost
well under $50US.

Caution:
This is for novelty use only and I take no responsibility for its misuse or any injuries or damages
due to its use. Small amplifiers like this can be susceptible to signals from cell phone so keep any
cell phone at least 5 feet away.

If connected to a computer, be sure to disable any system sounds or any programs that make beeps
or whistles as these can cause unpleasant shocks. If in doubt, use an MP3 player.
 Amplifier Box Construction
This is a stereo dual channel e-stim unit, sometimes called a ‘phasor’. It is based on a powered speaker available on
eBay for under $10 with shipping. The amp has been spotted at Wal-mart, Bed Bath & Beyond, and Fry’s so they
may be available locally as well. The unit will run off of 4 AAA batteries, off a computer’s USB port with the
supplied cable, or an optional 6vdc AC adapter. It’s rated at 1 watt and puts out about 7vac RMS. This gives it a
very safe maximum current of about 30ma. That’s more than enough to give you a shocking experience! Total parts
are under $20 and should take about 20 minutes to build, hence it’s original title of” $20/20min E-Stim”. Assembly
only requires a small Phillips screwdriver and can be completed without soldering, if desired.

1. Buy the Powered Speakers. Go to EBay and search for “SPEAKER DOCK” and buy one of these (under $10
with shipping). While almost any computer MP3 amplified speakers will probably work, these are a sure thing
and you won’t be left to guess which wire goes where.
Here’s what it looks like folded up and opened. A CD case is shown for size reference.

2. Go to Radio Shack and buy two (2) 273-1380 Audio Output Transformers ($6 for 2) This is the only special
part. Other similar “audio output” transformers may work but it’s a gamble and the wire colors will be different.
Here’s another you can order online: The 45-701 transformer at:http://www.electronicplus.com/content/P ...
subcat=XAU ,The LT-700 from Maplin (UK) is reported to work well.

3. You may want some wire, clip leads or other common supplies if you don’t have them around the house.

4. Remove the four screws holding the speaker covers. Remove the battery case, and then remove the 4 screws
that hold the cover on the back of the amplifier. Here’s what the guts look like:

5. Cut the Black and Red wires off the speakers and attach them to the transformers:
a. Speaker Black to Transformer White
b. Speaker Red to Transformer Red

6. Ignore the Green, Blue and the Electrode leads for the moment and only connect the Black, Red and White
wires as described.
7. Stuff the transformers in the empty pockets of the housing and tuck the wires out of the way as shown. Bend
down the tabs on the transformers. For proper fit, the transformers should be tilted inward.
 8. Replace the back cover, being very careful not to crimp any wires. Screw the back on.

NOTE: This wiring pattern will be the same for almost any transformer: The side of the transformer with two wires (the
Secondary) will go to the amplifier. The side with the three wires (the Primary): the outside wires will go to the trodes
and the center will get clipped. Just use consistent colors on the right and left channels. Here’s the 45-7xx wiring:

Amplifier Red goes to Transformer Secondary White

Amplifier Black goes to Transformer Secondary Green

Electrode Wiring

There are two common ways to wire the electrodes (commonly called ‘trodes’). The easiest and most common way is
to use three wires- Left, Right, and Common. (Or Channel 1, Channel 2, and Common) This is sometimes referred to as
‘tri-phase’ wiring. The other method ‘dual channel’ has two completely independent outputs using four wires: Channel
1 +, Channel 1 -, Channel 2 +, and Channel 2 -. The four wires allow the device to be connected to two separate body
parts or even to two separate bodies. We recommend the tri-phase as it’s the easiest and most common.

For clarity, leads are what connect the amplifier to the trodes; trodes are what connect directly to your body.
 Tri-Phase Trode Wiring

For this you’ll need some lightweight wire (cable) with at least three conductors. I used Radio Shack 278-513, which I
don’t really like but it’s the closest they had. It’s too stiff. You’ll also need three clip leads, unless you plan on using
other means to connect the leads to the trodes. A current-limiting resistor can be added in series with the electrodes for
extra safety. (not shown here)

Wiring the alligator clips to the lead cable

1. Cut off a piece of the cable long enough to reach from where you will have the amplifier to where your privates
will be when e-stimming. I used about six feet (2M). More wire will not reduce the signal.

2. Strip off the outer grey sleeve and splay the wires apart like this. Try not to nick the copper braid, though some
nicking is unavoidable. Keep track of the stray copper strands so they don’t get somewhere and short things out.
Peel away the aluminum foil as well. Strip the insulation off the red and white wires and tidy it up to look like
this:

3. Cut the alligator clips off of the three clip leads and strip the wires. Since I was too lazy to get my soldering iron
out of the car, I’ll teach you how to solder with no soldering iron! Soldering is optional but will give a more
reliable connection. If you don’t want to bother with it, just twist the bare wires together and tape them securely.

4. Twist the Red wire from the cable and the Red wire with the clip on it together. Wrap some electrical solder
around the joint as shown. Use standard Tin-Lead solder NOT lead-free solder for this. You can try lead-free
but it doesn’t work very well.
5. Position the joint so there’s nothing above it to catch fire, nor anything below it that will be harmed by the
excess solder that will drop away. This includes your fingers! Use a piece of cardboard or aluminum foil.

6. Heat the joint with a butane lighter as shown. Note that the lighter is to the side of the joint and not directly
below so that it’s safe from dripping solder. Keep the flame on for a few seconds until the solder and wire gets
hot enough that the solder melts and flows into the wore strands. If it doesn’t work the first time, apply more
solder and try again.

7. The joint should look something like this. They’re be singed wires and it won’t be pretty, but it’s a very good
electrical connection. We’re covering it with tape anyway so only you will know!
8. Wrap some electrical tape around the joint. Repeat for the other two clip leads. The braid may take some extra
solder and heat. When all three are done, wrap tape around the bundle.

Wiring the leads to the transformer

1. Strip and prep the other end of the cable.

2. Connect the cable as in the picture. The picture shows all four wires twisted together at one time. This is for
illustration only. For ease of assembly, twist the two Blue wires around the braid first. Solder, if desired. This
will be trickier as the wires are so short. Aren’t you glad I had you practice on the easier wires first! Wrap tape
around the joint. Repeat for the Green/White and Green/Red pairs. Trim away the center black wires.
NOTE: This wiring pattern will be the same for almost any transformer: The side of the transformer with two wires (the
Secondary) will go to the amplifier. The side with the three wires (the Primary): the outside wires will go to the trodes
and the center will get clipped. Just use consistent colors on the right and left channels. Here’s the 45-7xx wiring:

Transformer Primary White goes to the Trode Red lead

Transformer Primary Green goes to the Trode Braid lead
Transformer Primary Red- cut off

3. Here’s the end result. The wires are splayed apart so you can see more clearly. In real life, bunch them together
in the middle. The end part of the grey cable should be pushed near the center so that there will be plenty of the
grey insulation for the tape to stick to in the next step.
4. Use a piece of Duct (Duck) tape to cover the transformers and to attach the wires firmly. I prefer Guerilla Tape
as it’s the by far the stickiest and strongest duct tape I’ve ever used. It may be hard to find so just use what you
have. If you plan on using batteries, make sure that the tape does not go over the battery cover.

5. The finished version should look like this:

This completes the Tri-Phase wiring!
 Dual Channel Trode Wiring
This will require two lengths of two conductor wire. I used some fancy stuff I had around, but speaker wire works just
as well. The cheap thin stuff works well as it’s very flexible.

Construction details will be similar to the Tri-Phase wiring so I won’t go into as much detail here. For this wiring, I
used a real soldering iron and heat shrink tubing so it looks neater and more professional.

1. Attach your Electrode Leads to the Transformers’ Green and Blue leads. Cut off the Transformer Black
lead. A current-limiting resistor can be added in series with the electrodes for extra safety. (not shown here)
2. Stuff the transformers in the empty pockets of the housing and tuck the wires out of the way as shown. Bend
down the tabs on the transformers. For proper fit, the transformers should be tilted slightly inward.

3. Replace the back cover, being very careful not to crimp any wires. Screw the back on.

4. Tuck the Green and Blue wires in the space around the transformers. Route the Electrode Leads to the top of
the unit. Tape over the holes and tape the leads into place. I prefer Gorilla Duct tape as it’s extremely strong
and sticky and is black.
 5. Here’s the completed unit with the CD for sizing.

Plug in and enjoy!

 Trode Kit Construction

These probes were designed for the newbie with little electrical skills, tools, or supplies. This is intended as an intro kit.
There are many better trode designs out there. Start here and if feels good, search for more. There are many, many,
many opinions on e-stimming. This is designed as a cookbook approach to get one started. After this, start reading and
experimenting and find what works best for your individual body

General comments

Trodes (short for electrodes) are what connect the signals from the e-stim electrical box to your body.

The three typical points of placement are:

1. On or inside the anus

2. On the perineum (the space between your ball sack and your anus
3. On the penis: around the crown (the ridge) or somewhere on the shaft.

DO NOT PLACE ANY ELECTRODE ABOVE THE WAIST! THIS CAN CONDUCH CURRENTS THROUGH
THE HEART AND CAN BE FATAL!

This includes the nipples. As far as I know, no stimulation points above the waist are erotic; the nipples can be painful
and are typically used for BDSM play.

The trode will be in intimate contact with delicate parts of your body. Avoid toxic or irritating substances such as lead.
Be careful if you have sensitivities to such things as epoxies, plastics, latex, ect. Safe materials are usually: copper,
aluminum, lead-free or silver solder, most plastics or rubbers.

DO NOT PUT ANYTHING SHARP UP YOUR ANUS!

DO NOT PUT ANYTHING UP YOUR URETHRA (PEE-HOLE) UNLESS YOU”VE READ AND UNDERSTAND
THE RISKS AND PRECAUTIONS!

A trode requires good electrical contact with the skin. This involves:

1. Area. A trode that is too small will create a concentrated current which will cause a burning sensation at the
skin under the trode. (this is a sensation- the skin is not burned or damaged!) Most recommend about a square
inch (a little bigger than a stamp). Conversely, if the trode is too big, you may not get much local stimulation.
Experiment.

2. Pressure. A firm pressure is better. If the trode starts to slop off, the resistance will increase causing a slight
burning sensation.

3. Contact. Dry skin is not a good conductor. Without good contact, you may get little or no sensation, or the
aforementioned burning. To avoid this, use a conductive lubricant. Best is electrode gel: search Amazon.com or
google “Spectra 360”. Next is water-based personal lubricant mixed with a pinch of baking soda (NOT baking
powder), Epson salts, or table salt. Last resort is plain water-based personal lubricant, or plain spit. Oil-based or
silicone do not conduct well.

Trode Construction
None of the materials or measurements are critical. Use what you have around the house or what is available at your
local hardware, drugstore, chemist, or department stores.

For the wire, use a light, flexible stranded wire. Sometime called ‘primary’ or ‘hookup’ wire. 22, 24, or thinner works
fine. Speaker wire works fine if it isn’t too heavy.

For tape, use standard electrical tape. Masking, duct (duck), or transparent ‘Scotch’ tape will work in a pinch. Heat
shrink, ‘liquid tape’, silicone, or other sealants will likely work better if you are familiar with those

You shouldn’t need any special tool but a wire striper ($5 to $10) will make things easier and much safer than using a
knife to strip wires.

Now on to the part you’ve all been waiting for!

 Penis Trode
This is the simplest so let’s start from here.

What you’ll need:

1. lead-free or silver solder. The size and length will vary based on your penis size.
2. electrical tape
3. wire

1. Cut off a piece of the solder that is long enough to wrap around your penis about twice. This will be longer than
you think- maybe 12”
2. Strip about 1.5 inches of insulation from the wire and wrap it securely around one end of the solder.

3. Wrap electrical tape around the splice being careful to cover any sharp wires or edges and that the wire is firmly
in place. Lightly sand the free end of the solder with sandpaper or and emery board to remove any sharp edges.
Strip the other end of the wire so that it may be connected to the e-stim box.
To attach the probe, coat the solder with gel and lightly wrap it around the crown of the penis or along the shaft. Do
not twist it tightly- remember to allow for the penis expansion during erection. Put some extra gel on the trode after
installed. You may have to add more if it tingles too much.

That’s it!
 Perineum Trode
What you’ll need:

1. Tape. Duct tape, bandage tape, or any other wide tape that will stick to skin and is not painful. Cheap duct tape
is usually less tacky and easier to remove.
2. Wire
3. Aluminum foil (copper can be used as well. About 1.5” x 8”

1. Strip about 1.5 inches of insulation and then loop the bare wire over one end of the foil

2. Fold the foil at about 1.5” lengths to form a square.

 3. Cut the tape and form a square and tape the pieces into a square about 4” square. Adjust the sizes of the foil and
tape to conform to you perineum area. Place the foil square in the center of the tape (to the sticky side and press
it in firmly.

To attach the trode, apply a liberal coating of gel to the foil, being careful to completely cover the foil. Stick the patch
to the perineum area and press firmly so that the foil makes good contact. If you are hairy down there, you may want to
shave a bit!

That’s it. One more to go.

 Anal Trode
What you’ll need:

1. Tape
2. Heavy solder or bare copper or aluminum wire
3. Wire

1. Cut off a section of the wire and form it in the shape below. The exact size and shape will very with your
anatomy but this should be ok for starters.

2. Wrap a stripped end of the wire firmly around the longer end.
 3. Wrap some tape around both ends being careful to cover any sharp edges and to affix the wire tightly. I like to
put little loops at the other ends of the wire leads to make it easier and more secure to clip the e-stim cables.

To attach the trode, lube your anus with gel. Apply some gel to the trode. Slowly insert the trode in your anus with the
longer end with the wire attached towards your penis. STOP if anything hurts! The trode should fit relatively
comfortably. Experiment with various sized and shapes. The loop at the top keeps the trode in place.

Wash trodes with disinfecting soap before and after each use. You may want to or need to replace the tape frequently.
These probes are so cheap and easy, they’re practically disposable!
 General Procedure for E-Stimming

1. Download an appropriate mp3 or wav. Here’s a gentle one for starters. There are many, many more, but start
here.

http://smartstim.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=29&t=18506&sid=be8b49a8a36db33e6192220a4dd37b62

2. Turn off anything on your computer that may cause any sounds. Or transfer the mp3 to a portable mp3 player
and use that to play the file.

3. Connect the e-stimmer to the computer or mp3 player. Turn the volume completely down and switch the power
on.

4. Attach the trodes to yourself as described above.

5. Connect the penis probe to the Right channel, the perineum probe to the Left channel, and the anal probe to the
common. Or you can swap the perineum and anal probes. Experiment later.

6. Start playing the mp3 that you downloaded.

7. Turn the PC volume up about ¾

8. Slowly turn up the volume up about 1/8 turn. Wait briefly for any sensation, then turn it up again.

9. You probably won’t feel anything until about ½ or 2/3 volume.

10. Once you feel something, turn the volume up to a ‘comfortable’ level. The level of the mp3’s change so don’t
get too high until you are sure there are no loud surprises on the mp3!

11. Check the speaker balance levels on your PC and experiment with what feels best.

12. When raising the volume, you occasionally may feel some initial sting. You may have to push past this and then
the sensation will smooth out.

13. Enjoy the experience! If a trode starts to sting, turn down the volume and check that the trode is well attached.
You may need to add gel occasionally.

That’s all folks!