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Knit, Tuck and Miss Stitch

Knit, Tuck and Miss Stitch

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Published by Vasant Kothari

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Published by: Vasant Kothari on Nov 23, 2010
Copyright:Attribution Non-commercial


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here are three principle stitches utilised in knit fabrics: Knit,tuck and miss stitch. These three stitches, or combinationsof them appearing in the same fabric, form the basis of all knittedfabrics.
Formation of loop structures
The weft knitted structures described so far have been totallycomposed of knitted loops, which are produced whenever theneedle clears the old loop, receives the new yarn and knock over the old loop from the previous knitting cycle. Fig. 6.1 showsthe three possible positions of the needle at the time of feedingthe yarn. They are referred to as knit, tuck and miss positions.These different stitches are produced by controlling the heightof the needles and the individual selection of needles enableknit, tuck or miss stitches to be formed.For different stitch requirements, swing cams or auxiliary camsare placed between the rising cams and the stitch cams to changethe path of the needle butts to form a raceway and the needlebutts travel in this restricted path accordingly to form knit, tuck and miss stitch.
has doneMaster’s in Textiles Technology fromDKTE’s Textile and Engineering Institute,Ichalkaranji (Shivaji University, Kolhapur),Maharashtra. He has also done Diplomain Export Management (Apparel Export)from the Indian Institute of ExportManagement, and Garment Export andMerchandising Management from NIFT,Bangalore. Presently, he’s working as anAssistant Professor in Department of Fashion Technology, NIFT, Bangalore.(This is his fifth input from the series of articles in
Knitting Views 
Knit stitch
The knit stitch is the basic stitch. It is also called the plain stitch.Knit stitch is formed when the needle carries out a completestroke, reaching the maximum height on the looping plane.The tuck loop will always lie at the back of the held loop. Thenumbers of consecutive tucks on any one needle is limited by theamount of yarn that the needle hook can hold, with the maximumusually being between four to five loops. Fig 6.5 shows thetechnical face of the tuck stitch along with the knitting notations.
Fig 6.1 Three needle positions for the production of three stitch types.Fig 6.2 Cam setting for different stitches
 Tuck stitch
A tuck stitch is formed when a knitting needle holds its old loopand then receives a new yarn. Two loops then collect in theneedle hook. The previously formed knitted loop is called theheld loop and the loop which joins it is a tuck loop.
Fig 6.3 Face and back of knit stitchFig 6.4 Tuck stitch produced on a latch needle machineFig 6.5 Technical face of tuck stitch fabric with stitch notations
The resultant stitch is elongated. Tuck stitches appear on theback of a fabric and may be recognised as an inverted V, sometimeelongated for two or more courses, depending on how manytimes the stitched was tucked. Fig 6.6 shows a single tuck viewedfrom technical face and back of the fabric.Fig 6.7 shows a single tuck viewed from the technical back and,in addition, how this structure is represented using conventionalstitch notations.Tuck stitches tends to reduce the length of the fabric and increaseits width (Wales are pushed apart), resulting in the fabric beingthicker (yarn from the tuck stitch lies on top of the precedingstitch) with less extension in the width.The tuck stitch is used in knitted fabric to create design effectsin colour, raised surface texture, or a hole or eyelet effect.
Miss stitch
A miss stitch is created when one or more knitting needles aredeactivated and do not move into position to accept the yarn.The yarn merely passes by and no stitch is formed.The float will lie freely on the reverse side of the held loop, whichis the technical back, and in the case of rib and interlock structures it will be inside the fabric. Fig 6.10 illustrates that thefloat will extend from the base of one knitted or tucked loop tothe next.
Fig 6.6 Tuck stitchFig 6.7 Tucking over four adjacent plain needlesFig 6.8 Tuck stitch (Face and Back)Fig 6.9 Float stitch produced on a latch needle machineFig 6.10 Technical face of float stitch
Miss stitch is also known as float stitch or welt stitch. Fig 6.11shows the face and the back of the miss stitch.Fig 6.12 shows a four needle float viewed from the technicalback, together with the conventional stitch notation used torepresent this structure.The introduction of miss stitches results in the fabric becomingnarrower in width, since the wales are pulled closer together andthe held loop ‘robs’ yarn from adjacent loops. This tends to improvefabric stability. The miss stitch also has a tendency to increase

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