AIM Mag Issue 22 April 2010

Contents…
April 2010: Issue No 22, Cover Image: Janine Crocker
Regular Features…
5 Editor’s Note: Read Bea Broadwood’s introduction &
welcome to this month’s fabulous edition of the Artisans
In Miniature FREE ‘downloadable’ magazine!
17 Blog Of The Month: This month we take a closer look at
AIM member Mags Cassidy’s wonderful blog.
36 Fashion Gallery: French Dressing AIM members
showcase their most feminine miniature undergarments
and boudoir fashions.
42 Diary Of An Edwardian Dollshouse: Don’t miss
the 3rd instalment of Julie Campbell’s fascinating
miniature dolls house adventure!
45 Aunt Anastasia: If you have a miniature dilemma , then
18 why not write to our very own agony aunt for her well
considered advice?
53 *New Feature* The Tool Junkie: AIM member Mel Koplin
21 introduces his new regular column.
60 Getting To Know You: Get to know more about AIM
member Ernesto Baldini.
64 In Season This Month: Welcome to the next instalment
of this popular ‘miniature food’ feature. This month Vicky
Guile and her fellow AIM food artisans take a closer
look at delicious ‘Seafood’.
72 Boudoir Bliss: AIM members come together to
celebrate their miniature interpretation of ‘bedroom
chic’.
82 Through The Keyhole: Ever wondered what it would
be like to be able to have a closer look at the
working environments of AIM members? This month
we take a peek at the work space of food artisan:
Mo Tipton.
88 Mini Aimers: A Secret Garden Project for the
artisans of the future. Written by Debie Lyons
94 The Miniature Grapevine: Catch up on all the latest
news and announcements from the international
miniature world.
60
Artisans In Miniature 2
Features… 48
6 Cover Story: Fashion & Frivolities: AIM member Janine Crocker
of Miss Amelia’s Miniatures tells us more about her beautiful
miniature creations.
14 The Dolls House Bedding Co: We take a closer look at the
stunning bedding created by AIM member Christina Berry.
18 The Language Of Fans: AIM member Maia Bisson lifts the lid
on the coded language of these beautiful accessories.
21 The Art Of Illusion: Food artisan Philippa Todd gives us a
taste of how polymer clay can be used to create stunningly
realistic bedding.
24 Mad About Hats: AIM members get together to celebrate the best in beautiful
miniature headwear.
26 Cross Over Crafts: Ever wondered what AIM artisans get up to in their spare time?
This month Helen Woods reveals her fascinating (non miniature) hobby.
32 Modern Living: Christa Chayata lets us into her wonderfully modern contemporary
bedroom; made using only the most miniature of budgets.
48 *New Feature* The Knitting Basket: Read the 1st instalment of Frances Powell’s
fascinating new series.
63 The Book Corner: Each month read Louise Win’s reviews of ‘miniature related books’
that you may want to add to your own book shelves.
91 Show Report: Read Julie & Brian Dewar’s show report from ‘Willowdale’.
Free Projects…
22 1:12th - Undergarments: AIM member Kathi Mendenhall shares her delightful project
to create some 20th century miniature underwear.
50 1:24th - Cat Tutorial: Doll Artisan Nicky Cooper shares her wonderful tutorial for
sculpting this ever popular family pet.
56 1:12th - Low Bed: Author & AIM member Jane Harrop shares her
stunningly realistic tutorial for a traditional wooden framed bed.
58 1:12th - Ladies Camisole Top: Frances Powell has the perfect
pattern to create a beautiful miniature camisole.
70 1:12th - Blinis & Caviar: Top food artisan Vicky Guile
kindly shares her delightful project to create this
luxurious miniature delicacy.
80 1:12th - A Simple Basket: Why not have a
go at Jane Squire’s easy to follow project.
84 The Green Hedgehog: Louise Win brings us the 2nd
14
instalment of her new project column.
92 1:48th - Faux Flowery Iron Bed: Shelly Norris teaches just how to
transform a simple quarter scale bed frame.
CLICK…on Artisans In Miniature
How did you find the Online Magazine??
Did you follow a link?
Did a miniature friend tell you about it?
...and do you already know about the Artisans In Miniature Website,

and the talented members who have all helped create this Online magazine.?
If not, copy, paste and CLICK now – www.artisansinminiatures.com and come and
meet us all. Founded in 2007 by Bea (Fiona) Broadwood of Petite Properties, the
website has been created in order to showcase the fantastic work of the individual
professional international artisan members who create beautiful and original scale
miniatures for sale to the public. Together they form the Artisans In Miniature
association.
Since its launch the AIM association has rapidly grown and now boasts membership of
well over 200 professional artisans, including some of the most talented within the
miniature world!
On the website you will find further information about them and their work;
however, please note new pages are constantly being added and there are many
members who are not yet included on the site...
If you are a professional artisan who is interested in joining the association, you will
find all the information there.....
If you are wondering what Fairs may be on in your area – that information is there
too…
We have lots of links…to Fairs and Events Organizers…Magazines…Online Miniature

clubs….Historical reference sites…..Workshops…and more… it’s all there!
If you’d like to contact us, copy, paste and CLICK...

we’d love to hear from you!
www.artisansinminiature.com
Artisans In Miniature ?
Editor’s
Note...
Dear Reader
Once again it is my great please to be able to
welcome you to the latest edition of the AIM
The AIM Magazine’s
magazine.
Editorial Team:
This month AIM members have been truly inspired by
Bea Broadwood ‘all things girlie’ and this issue’s 98 pages have been
office@petite-properties@aol.com
filled to the brim with hats, underwear, bedrooms and
Debie Lyons
Hufflepuffed1048@aol.com boudoirs; all in miniature of course!
Janine Crocker I must confess that I am not particularly a ‘girlie girl’…

janine@missameliasminiatures.com
Most days I can be found make up less, sporting hair
Julie Campbell that at best resembles a bird nest and wearing paint
belljulie1@aol.com
splattered old clothes, which are far from chic.
Margaret Cassidy However despite being a defiant stranger to fashion,
info@mags-nificent.co.uk
after taking a sneaky peak at this very ‘feminine’
Mary Williams
marysdolls@gmail.com issue, I must confess that I found my self reaching for
my lip gloss and comb!
Vicky Guile
vicky@njdminiatures.com
So if you are looking for inspiration for a bedroom
Please note
AIM is an active association scene, or you have a doll in desperate need of
to which all AIM
members contribute … underwear - look no further - The AIM magazine has
Formatted By something for every miniature lady and her boudoir!!
Bea Broadwood & Vicky Guile
Bea
Editor (& General whip cracker)
April 2010
www.petite-properties.com Artisans In Miniature 5
FASHION &
YÜ|äÉÄ|à|xáAAA
By AIM Member
Janine Crocker of Miss
Amelia’s Miniatures...
I always loved dolls and ‘playing
house’ as a child and my sister and
I spent hours playing with small
pieces of furniture that my
grandfather and father made for
us, but it wasn’t until just before
my 40th birthday that I came
across a tiny pestle and mortar on
the Internet and I was hooked.
I decided then that I would like to
create, decorate and furnish a
dolls house of my own. My
daughter Amelia was 6 at the time
and with my sons at 4 years and 2
months old I can’t imagine what I
was thinking of.
There was no room to construct a full size 12th scale house and so the kit remained in the box for the next
four years while in the meantime I began to plan the furnishings and decor room by room and to
experiment with the effects that I wanted to create.
I soon became fascinated by miniature millinery. I started out by making and decorating basic hats but the
more involved I became in
researching designs from
different periods the more
determined I was to learn to
use original techniques and
skills and convert them to
miniature. My aim has stayed
the same: I don’t want to make
dolls hats, I want to make ladies
hats… in miniature.
I spend a lot of time looking

through books of millinery
through the ages and the
internet is a mine of
A selection of
information for
sources and inspiration. Hats
costume 1:12th scale hats...
have made statements
throughout history and I’m
intrigued by the way their fashions have often reflected the trends in society and politics. Just about every
fabric and trim imaginable have been used in their creation over the centuries and I don’t suppose I will
ever run out of ideas.
(Below) Chiffon & Silk (Below) Black tulle &

Parasol... chiffon Edwardian hat...
(Above) A Victorian
toque.....
I only use top quality fabrics, sourcing unusual pieces of trim and fabrics from all over the world. I can’t
resist a piece of antique French lace or a length of vintage trim from a long forgotten selection of
haberdashery. My hats are carefully lined and finished and each one has a Miss Amelia label or mark inside
the crown
When I first opened my website I would sell a design ‘to order’ but I very quickly realised that trying to
recreate the same piece over and over became a chore and decided that only by limiting myself to ‘one of
a kind’ pieces would I really stretch myself and my imagination. Of course one of the things we strive for as
miniaturists is to make our work as lifelike as possible and I am secretly thrilled when people mistake my
hats for the full size version.
Customising furniture is another passion of mine. I love to take a piece of mass produced dollshouse
furniture and turn it into a unique piece that could be the focal point of any miniature scene. From the
cheapest Ebay bargain to a hand crafted piece of furniture there is a real satisfaction in seeing the finished
article ‘dressed’ and totally unrecognisable from the original.
A basic piece of dollshouse

furniture converted into a
Victorian daybed...
I prefer to work in 12th scale
because I love the detail and
having got used to that scale I can
‘see’ it without having to
constantly convert measurements.
From time to time though I dabble
in smaller scales as I am fascinated
by 1/48 scale, but find it tiring after
a while so limit the amount of
pieces I make in a year.
Living on such a remote island as

Lanzarote I feel very fortunate to be
able to reach worldwide collectors
A selection of via the internet. Many of my
1:24th scale hats...

customers have become firm
friends and many of the friends that
I have made through various
miniatures groups have been an
endless source of help and support. I would love to be able to attend fairs once my children are a little
older, not only to experience the thrill of meeting my customers but also to get the chance to put faces
to the names of the artisans who have become friends over the years.
Cover photo: Some years back I received an request from a lady in Singapore for a vanity unit and hat
set to include in her very first room box. Once we started discussing her project her enthusiasm was
infectious and before long emails were flying backwards and forwards buzzing with ideas. The simple
room box became a
two level bedroom
and sitting room; the
dressing table would
have a matching
chaise longue and
dressing screen; an
elegant sofa and chairs
would need to be up-
holstered in the ex-
act shade of seafoam
silk to match the tiny
stripes in the wallpa-
per. Samples were
sent and received and
minds were changed
in a way that only us
girls can understand.
The most exciting item that we discussed was to be a huge armoire brimming with
goodies; dresses, hats, jewellery and shoes as well as all those little frivolities that a lady
just must have.
Unable to find a wardrobe that met our requirements I called on a friend in the UK,
craftsman David Brown, and sent him sketches of the idea that we had. He excelled himself and created
an exquisite piece of furniture which I was then able to fill.
The room box project took a year, and over 462 emails, to complete and we were all delighted with the
final results. In addition I learned many new techniques along the way, and best of all, gained a new friend
whose enthusiasm for her hobby was contagious.
The dressed armoire....
Last year, at the request of two favourite customers, I
decided to try my hand at costuming and have dressed
several porcelain mannequins in styles that range from
Bridal to Carnival, Mourning to Ballgowns. Most of these
pieces have been made on commission only. I love to find
original dresses from the late 19th century and reproduce
them in 12th scale and am constantly on the lookout for
suitable fabrics.
Inspired by a Worth
Steampunk Hats…
gown
I am constantly learning and
1882....
improving my work and am always
on the lookout for new designs or
styles to recreate in miniature.
Most recently I have become
interested in Steampunk also
known as Neo Victorian fashion
which combines my love of all
things Victorian with touches of
‘mad scientist’ style technology.
It has been great fun researching
and hunting down suitable
trimmings and elaborating hats and
accessories.
& finally...
And finally last year I managed to
start work on my own dolls house
which is something I am taking so
much pleasure from. I am certainly
not rushing but bit by bit it’s
starting to come together. Who
knows, I might want another one
for my fiftieth birthday…
Why not find out more about Janine’s
beautiful work by
visiting her website:
www.missameliasminiatures.com
Text & Images © Janine Crocker 2010
THE DOLLS HOUSE BEDDING CO
By AIM Member, Christina Berry.
I have always enjoyed sewing and I trained to make bespoke garments in a workroom in London’s West
End.
I started making miniatures about ten years ago when a friend asked me to make some bedclothes for her
dolls house.
Although there were artisans who dressed beds my friend hadn’t been able to find individual mattresses,
eiderdowns and blankets so that she could put together her own look.
I enjoyed making the tiny bedding and I hoped that other collectors might be interested in individual items
so I went ahead and booked my first fair at Shuttleworth in Hertfordshire.
Rather stupidly I took the standard modern day bed measurements, divided them by twelve and produced
my first range of bedding. It wasn’t until a few fairs down the line when people started bringing in their
beds for me to measure that I realised how little standardisation there is in miniature bed sizes. Of necessity
I began to make-to-measure and that is still the way I work today.
Early on I assumed that there would be plenty of source material to help with the design process. In reality
very little ordinary domestic bedding has survived. Most of it was very well used, turned sides to middle and
then thrown away.
I take a notebook to any art gallery, museum or country house that I visit and I’m always on the look-out for
bedding detail. Re-runs of Upstairs Downstairs have proved to be a surprisingly good source of ideas for ser-
vants bedding!
Colour is a very important element in my work. A good colour choice can easily evoke the mood of an era. I
make a 1940’s eiderdown in a particular shade of dark green silk and many people have stopped at my stand
at fairs to tell me that their grandparents had one exactly like it. Lilac is 1950 and turquoise will always be
1980.
When I first started to make miniatures the Victorian period was far and away the most popular. Since then
things have broadened out quite a bit reflecting the wonderful variety of dolls houses and furniture that is
being produced. My range now includes everything from Tudor bed hangings to duvets.
My own choice of bedding is strictly traditional and when I snuggle down to sleep it’s under ivory coloured
percale and satin edged blankets.
I usually show my work at Kensington Dollshouse Festival and Miniatura and although I’ve had to miss
several shows lately I’m hoping to be exhibiting
again later this year.
If you would like to see more of
Christina’s stunning miniature
bedding, why not visit her website:
www.thedollshousebeddingco.co.uk
Text & Images ©

Christina Berry 2010
Look out for a wonderful

project written by Christine
in next month’s issue of the
AIM magazine…!
By AIM Member Debie Lyons
This month we will be looking at the blog of AIM artisan
Mags Cassidy of Mags-nificent Miniatures.
www.mags-nificentminiatures.blogspot.com
Mags started a blog, at first, to make contact with other

Miniaturist's and Makers for some light-hearted fun and
chat. She has been blogging for a whole year and now her
blog has amassed 186 followers to date.
When you visit Mags blog also take the time to read back over past posts and look at her beautiful miniature food.
She also gives feedback about shows she has attended and at Christmas she delighted us with a Christmas cake
giveaway. When Mags was asked what she like about blogging she replied, ‘I love the feed back when I make
something - it helps to know which things people love most when making stock to take to fairs.’
Mags has found that the friendship has been amazing - if anyone is having a bad time, everyone will give messages
of support and send good wishes. She also finds blogging and keeping a blog much quicker and easier than
updating her website (which she is very happy with). Mags said ‘If I want to show fair stock quickly before a fair, it
is quick to load the photographs’. For Mags, blogging is definitely helpful in getting your minis out there - at
Miniatura, quite a few people came looking for her because they had seen items they liked, on the blog. Mags was
asked what her favourite widget was she replied, ‘My favourite widget is photos because, as I have already said, it
is so quick and simple to do!’
Take the time to visit Mag’s blog you will find it visually
vibrant and easy to read.
www.mags-nificentminiatures.blogspot.com
www.magsnificentminis.etsy.com
www.mags-nificent.co.uk ArtisansInInMiniature
Artisans Miniature 1719
The Language of...
FANS By AIM Member, Maia Bisson
The Fan: A truly versatile accessory

For several centuries the fan was an essential fashion accessory for ladies. It reached its production peak
between 1700 and 1905.
It is fascinating to see how multifaceted this beautiful item has been.

In addition to being an ornament or a means for creating a breeze when it’s warm, the fan has had many
interesting and fun uses. Here are some which might inspire a miniature scene or story:
The fan was part of a bride’s trousseau or received as a wedding present,
treasured and safely kept.
It was used to commemorate a country’s special event or to celebrate an important

happening, such as an exhibition, and was handed out as a souvenir.
The fan helped preserve modesty. In church, it hid a lady’s face while she was
praying. Some fans had holes in them and could be used as masks
so as to not be recognized!
In later years they were an original and different way of advertising a business,
such as a restaurant.
A fan is a toy.
And of course, it is also an instrument for flirtation and a means of

communication and of expression.
During periods when men and women weren’t allowed to communicate openly, the fan had its own special
language by which they could speak to each other. It would have been very important to be able to
understand silent messages conveyed with the fan.
Here are a few examples of this lost language:
If the fan was open and hid the eyes it meant:

“I love you.”
If the fan was closed and touched the right eye the message was:
“When will I see you?”
When the fan was drawn across the eyes the person was saying:
“I’m sorry.” Artisans In Miniature 19
To drop the fan meant:
“We will only be friends.”
Holding the fan in the left hand and giving it a twirl sent the
important message:
“Someone is watching us.”
If the woman was fanning herself in a slow way it meant: “I’m married.”
A fan resting on the right cheek was a: “Yes.”
A fan resting on the left cheek was a: “No.”
So, pay close attention next time you see someone with a fan, who
knows, they may be revealing a secret!
To see more of Maia’s fabulous miniatures why not visit her website:
www.maiastwinkleminiatures.com
Or her blog: http://maiastwinkleminiatures.blogspot.com
Photographs & Text © Maia Bisson

The Art of Illusion...
By AIM Member Philippa Todd
Polymer clay has more applications than just making food. The realistic folds and drapes in
these beds were created by backing the material with polymer clay. Liquid polymer clay is
used as a "glue" to hold the fabric to the clay and once baked the bond will be permanent.
Quilting lines, crumples and indentations (such as for the snoozing cat) can be impressed
into the duvet prior to baking. Draping the bed linen over a sleeping doll can be made to
look very realistic with this technique.
Soft folds can be put into tablecloths and curtains by using the same method. The
tablecloth and bed linen are baked in situ on the table or bed. There are limitations to this
technique, silks and very fine fabrics are not suitable and I learnt the
hard way that French polish cannot be baked!
Philippa Todd
IGMA Artisan
Text & Photographs ©

Philippa Todd 2010
www.toddtoysandminiatures.com Artisans In Miniature 21

Project...Project...Project...Project...Project...Project...Project...Project...Project...Project...Project...Project...Project...Project...Project...Project...
Undergarments...
For The 20th Century...
By AIM Member, Kathi Mendenhall.
Supplies..
7"-8" 1 1/2" lace edging
or embroidered edging
About 12" 2mm or 4mm silk ribbon
Thread to match
Glue
Directions...
The Camisole
1. Centre up the design portion you like best and trim away about 3 1/2".
2. From the centre measure 3/4" on either side and either take a dart about 3/4" deep or sew a seam down
the line. (the lace has a dart, it is under the arm)
3. Hem 1/8" along the bottom of the cotton for a nice finish. (The lace is left alone)
4. Hem each side back about 1/8" and join by overlapping and gluing in place.
5. Cut 2 pieces of silk ribbon 1 1/2". Glue strap to inside about 3/8" from either side of the centre. Do the
same to the back.
6. These pieces will fit a doll. If fitting the doll, fit the camisole on, close the back, and then adjust the straps
accordingly.
7. The lace camisole is gathered at the waist with a tied ribbon for the drawstring.
The Tap Pants
1. From the remainder of the lace or edged trim,

again centering the design, cut away two pieces
that are about 2 1/4". (The edges Swiss scallops
were each 1" wide, so the rise in the scallop is
the side "seam".)
2. Mark each cut edge about 1/4" from the

bottom edge.
3. Join the two pieces at the cut edge from the top to the marked spot. This is the front seam.
4. If you need to clean finish (hem) the top edge of lace or edging, glue about 1/8"
5. With wrong sides together sew or glue the leg openings together. Turn right side out and fit to doll.
Close the back seam. If not on a figure, close the back seam as well.
6. Sew a gathering thread along the waistline and gather to fit, or to the look desired.
7. The embroidered Swiss has a small bow on the front to simulate a ribbon drawstring. The lace pants
have a piece of ribbon with a knot tied, glue and the streamers pressed or glued down.
To view more of Kathi’s fabulous miniatures, why not visit her website;
‘La Petite Belle Patterns’
www.minipatterns.com
Text & Photographs © Kathi Mendenhall 2010
Cross Over
Crafts...
T he world of miniatures is certainly a diverse one and it is easy to see that the
hobby incorporates so many different craft areas, techniques and artistic pursuits
Here at AIM our members are a very talented bunch and despite leading the field in the world
of professional miniatures, many of them also enjoy a number of ‘full size’ crafts and hobbies
So we thought it would be interesting to find out more about our member’s ‘extra curricular’
crafting activities and ask whether their hobbies are a source of inspiration for their miniature
work or simply time to relax.
AIM member Helen wood is well known in the miniature world for her stunning miniature
knitting, but what isn’t so well know is that she is also incredibly accomplished and passionate
about ‘full size’ embroidery...
A Stitch in Time...
One of my earliest memories from childhood is of going to the local College of Further Education with my
Mother. She went to dressmaking and tailoring classes and I was sat under the edge of the table whilst
she learnt. It wasn’t long before I wanted my own material, needle and thread, and I can remember the
ladies threading needles for me and making big, big stitches. It was the start of a life long passion for
anything involving needles and threads.
My Mother, Aunt and Grandmother were all embroiderer’s and it wasn’t surprising that this is where my
interests developed, after all the threads where
bright and enticing, much more
exciting for an inquisitive child than
dressmaking material fabric and thread and machines that must not be touched!
Over the years I have tried most kinds of embroidery, not always with resounding success, but always
with same pure enjoyment of creating something that has an intrinsic beauty from the simplest of
‘ingredients’. I would say that my favourite types of embroidery are threadpainting, blackwork and
stumpwork, which is a type of raised embroidery popular in the 18th Century and enjoying a revival in the
last twenty years. In full size embroidery stumpwork probably challenges me the most and gives me the
most satisfaction on completion, blackwork is the most relaxing and threadpainting along with tapestry
(needlepoint) have been the easiest to adapt to miniature scales.
In miniature embroidery and knitting, which is my other passion, it is the reproduction of scale that
makes or breaks a piece of work. Technically a piece can be perfect but unless the scale is correct it sim-
ply does not work. Everything has to be adapted, the fineness of the fabric, thread and needles, the size
of the stitches and the density/strength of the colours used has to be changed from the full size equiva-
lent example. But, having said that, it is simply a matter of practice, trial and error and experience to
achieve a satisfactory and accomplished piece of work. Artisans In Miniature 27
They are all learnt skills; they require no particular form of genius or
magical inspiration. When I now look back at my early pieces of miniature
work, and of which I was so proud at the time, I cringe. But that also helps
me to see the path I have travelled and what I have learnt along the way.
‘Inspiration’ and where does it come from?...
Which brings me the point of ‘inspiration’ and where does it come from?
The inspiration for particular pieces comes from all around, both historical
and contemporary – art works, books, magazines, old patterns, museums,
nature, the list is endless. Two things I find particularly intriguing in full
size and really want to master in miniature are stumpwork techniques and
embroidered historically correct clothing/costumes. Why do I want to
master them? Because of the challenges they present, finding the
necessary materials to be able to reproduce them in scale, their
complexity of construction using traditional techniques and achieving a
realistic effect at the end of the process. I would love to make the coat, in
miniature, which is the focal point of Beatrix Potter’s book ‘The Tailor of
Gloucester’, complete with working buttons and buttonholes.
People often ask is miniature em-
broidery hard to do? The answer is
no, but it does require some basic
skills in embroidery, which are easily
learnt and there are many excellent
books to learn them from, as well as
websites, classes and people. Even
the most basic of stitches can be,
and are, used to great effect in
miniature.
Other pre-requisites are patience,
time, good light and great
Stumpwork - Dragon Fly & Flowers...
magnification. Tricks of the trade?
None, except an open mind, throw
out the full size rule book, there is no right or wrong way to do it, it is simply a case of whatever creates the
desired effect. The only rule I have is that of matching the fineness of the fabric, needle and thread – the
finer the fabric the finer the needle and thread have to be.
On the following page I have included a bibliography of useful books and magazines, which should help those
wanting to try miniature or full size embroidery. There are also many suppliers of kits or needlepoint charts
for miniaturists, both online and by mail order. These can e found in the
advertisement section in Miniature magazines, which also often have patterns
for embroidery in them.
Stumpwork - Fuchsias & Humming Bird..
Bibliography
Miniature:
Dolls House DIY Carpets and Rugs Sue Hawkins David & Charles (2003)
Dolls House DIY Embroidered Projects Sue Hawkins David & Charles (2005)
Dolls House Needlecrafts Venus Dodge David & Charles (1995)
Miniature Embroidery for the Georgian Pamela Warner GMC (1999)
Dolls House
Needlepoint 1/12th Scale Felicity Price GMC (2000)
Transitional:
Embroidered Knot Gardens Owen Davies Batsford (2006)
Small Scale Embroidery Brenda Keyes David & Charles (2003)
Full Size and Technique:
Old Books (Available Libraries or second hand bookshops)

Encyclopedia of Needlework Th. de Dillmont DMC
Dictionary of Embroidery Stitches Mary Thomas Hodder & Staughton
Beeton’s Book of Neddework Isabella Beeton Chancellor Press
Contemporary...
Decorative Victorian Needlework Elizabeth Bradley Ebury Press (1990)
The Embroiderer’s Garden Thomasina Beck Milner Publishing (1990)
The Embroiderer’s Flowers Thomasina Beck David & Charles (1992)
New Designs in Raised Embroidery Barbara & Roy Hirst Merhurst (1997)
Contemporary Raised Embroidery Shelley Warner Margaret Barrett (1997)
Painting with Thread Kit Nicol Collins & Brown (2000)
An Elizabethan Christmas Sheila Marshall Georgeson Publishing (2000)
Elizabethan Needlework Accessories Sheila Marshall Georgeson Publishing (1998)
Embroidery Techniques Royal School of Needlework Batsford (2001)
Arts & Crafts Needlepoint Beth Russell The National Trust (2006)
Stumpwork Embroidery Jane Nicholas Milner Publishing (1995)
Stumpwork Designs &Projects Jane Nicholas Milner Publishing (1998)
Stumpwork Dragonflies Jane Nicholas Milner Publishing (2000)
The Essential Guide to Embroidery Murdoch Books (2002)
th
18 Century Embroidery Techniques Gail Marsh GMC (2006)
A-Z of Embroidery Stitches Country Bumpkin Publications (1997)
A-Z of Wool Embroidery Country Bumpkin Publications (2001)
A-Z of Embroidered Flowers Country Bumpkin Publications (2001)
A-Z of Stumpwork Country Bumpkin Publications (2005)
Magazines: Published Quarterly

Inspirations Country Bumpkin Publications
Cross Stitch & Bead Work Jill Oxton Publications
Artisans In Miniature 30 Text & Images © Helen Woods 2010

Artisans In Miniature
“An association of professional artisans,
dedicated to promoting a high standard
NEW
artisansinminiature.blogspot.com
Are YOU a professional miniature artisan??
Do you sell quality handmade miniatures to the public??
Do you want to showcase your work and talents on a global platform??
Do you want to be part of a supportive professional association??
AND do you want it all for FREE???
If you answered 'YES' to EVERY question…

Then look no further, AIM is the professional miniaturists association for YOU!!
AIM is completely FREE to join and completely FREE to be part of.
So...if you are a professional miniature artisan and you would like to find out
more about joining the AIM Association,
please email AIM’s Membership Secretary: Mary for more information:
marysdolls@gmail.com
Or alternatively visit our website…
Modern
Living...
By AIM Member, Christa Chayata.
I started with miniatures when I purchased a second hand house from Dell
Prado which came complete with furniture. I put it all together but was never
really satisfied with it as the rooms were all the same; square with no
windows. So, I wanted to throw it all away! Then when I cleaned out all the
furnishings I saw the empty rooms and an idea immediately came to mind –
Why not make it into a ‘modern’ dollshouse, with all the furnishing and
furniture made by myself? And so I did…!
Before I started work on my house, I looked on the internet and magazine’s to

research my idea and to find a lot of idea’s. I also looked in my collection of
things that I keep for “maybe I can use this” as sometimes an idea can pop
into your head; just by looking at the material.
The bedroom I have

created is in 1:12 scale
and I have tried to
make it a life like as
possible. Before I
started doing the “real
work” I had in my mind
the complete picture
and I knew that I
wanted to make two
corners in the wall from
cardboard, so that the
room would not look
square. I also wanted
to create windows, but
because of the
instability of the house,
I was afraid to cut a
hole into the wall!
Instead I looked for a
‘print’ of some windows
and created false
windows with a view
mounted behind some
plastic to represent the
glass.
Finally I put up some

curtains made from
ribbons, so that it would
look real. To co ordinate
the room I also used the
same ribbons for pillows.
I collected all the material I wanted to use for the furnishings and I used everyday objects to create many
of the features within the room, for example I used wooden lolly sticks to recreate the blinds that hang in
front of the window.
On the dressing table, I made a torso for jewellery from fimo and the make up is made from plastic finds.
The lamps are created from black foils and clear thick plastic folded into a square which is then mounted
on a plastic pen to create the illusion of glass. (The tea pot on the tray is the only thing that was bought)
I am really pleased with the end result, especially as I made almost every thing myself. It also shows that
you can make a great room; even with only a tiny budget!
Beside the bedroom ,I have finished the kitchen can be viewed

here:
http://home.wanadoo.nl/ichayata/
mijneerstepoppenhuisdelprado1.htm
and the bathroom with can be viewed here:
http://home.wanadoo.nl/ichayata/
mijneerstepoppenhuisdelprado2.htm
The living room and attic are still empty…..something for me to
do in the future...!! Christa Chayata.

To see more of Christa’s fabulous miniatures why not visit her website:
http://home.wanadoo.nl/ichayata/dolls.htm
http://freubels.punt.nl/
Photographs & Text © Christa Chayata
DIARY OF AN
EDWARDIAN
DOLLS HOUSE
By AIM Member, Julie Campbell
WEEK The week started with a bit more preparation and trying to
2 figure out the best working order for me.

According to my trusty instruction
manual I should now have my front
and side opening panels hinged on and be at-
taching my finishing trims to the building.
Instead I fiddled...
Here you can see my living quarters above the
shop. These two walls both slide out easily for
decoration. I had to try them out for size and
they do indeed come in and out with ease
which will make the eventual decoration of the
house a whole lot easier.

The back wall of the shop also slips in and out for
decoration and is only permanently attached once the
back wall and stairs are decorated. This wall was a bit
tricky so I rigged up a makeshift "jig" of some books to
ensure my walls were square while the glue dried.
This worked very well and resulted in a lovely back wall
which fits like a dream.
Here you can
see the attic
space which I
love so much
complete with
the dividing wall
underneath.
This is a removable wall too and can be
placed pretty much anywhere giving
choice as to the size of the upper
rooms.
I have four rooms above the shop to
play with and haven’t decided yet what
they are going to be. I have stories to
tell in this house and I need to think
things out carefully before making my
final decision and decorating the inside
of the house accordingly.
I did some more work to the shop
front, fitting the supports and then the
shelves for the shop windows.
The window surrounds and shelves

will be simply painted cream which
will set it off the wondrous
miniature toys to be displayed
there!
I then began the prep for the win-

dows and trims.
First I sorted out which trim went

where, this took some time!
There are no pictures of the actual

trim in the instructions, just
sketches of the finished house
indicating where each piece goes.
It took a little time to identify each piece and of course I had one piece missing!
I also found the long side pieces of trim to the upper part of the house were more damaged than they
seemed at first glance.
I have contacted the suppliers to ask if they can replace these parts. I should be able to improvise if there
are any problems but hopefully I won’t have to … This is why it is so important to
check your parts carefully when you first open a kit house box.
I then gave the windows and window trims their first coat of enamel paint. I'm using
antique white which looks lovely.
While they dried I put the chimney together which you can see was a simple case of
gluing together the parts provided and leaving to dry overnight.
More coats of paint were added to the windows and soon they
were ready to attach to the house.
The instructions say not to attach the chimney until the roof is
decorated but as I am using real slates on the roof and brick slips on the chimney I think it will be better to
attach the chimney first. Once the trims were I dry I started to attach them with PVA glue.
You can see here how

beautifully the antique white
trim complements the burgundy
on the front.
I'm really happy with the colour

and I think the windows will
look fabulous with some toys
displayed there.
The left side of the house looks lovely with the trim but you can
see here where the missing sill should be.
I have tried to contact the suppliers but no luck as yet, being very
impatient I think I will simply improvise and make my own...
The name sign will be the finishing touch and I want
to give it some beautiful writing so will work on that
when the outside is completed.
First though to decorate the outside of the
Emporium!
I bought some strips of balsa wood from Hobbycraft

to improvise on the missing parts of my kit. After
trying for hours to find a solution to the short door/
tall door gap problem I had a Eureka moment!
Why didn’t I think of it before! I simply cut a piece of

balsa to the same shape and thickness of the door
frame and then glued it into the bottom of the door
opening.
Hey Presto! My door now closed perfectly leaving no
gap and a nice flat finish to both sides of the wall.
My door step was made with two pieces of balsa wood,
one wider than the other, which I cut to the same
width. Once glued onto
the wall the door step
hid the join where I had
inserted the extra piece
of wood into the door
frame giving a neat
strong finish.
I was now able to glue
on the remaining trim
and begin the paint
work.
You can see here how
neat my improvising
looks!
While at Hobbycraft I found some lovely fine
gravel in the model railway section.
I had decided to use real brick slips for the
main part of the house and paint the top
section to resemble stone. Suddenly I had
another Eureka moment!
Pebble dashing! I bought 2 bags of the fine
gravel one cream and one light tan as I knew
the two shades would mix well to give a
realistic effect.
I simply coated the top section of the doll’s
house in a thick coat of PVS. I did
one side at a time leaving each to
dry overnight.
Once the PVA was brushed on I

simply poured my mixed fine
gravel evenly over the surface
with the doll’s house lying flat on
the table and the side I was
working on facing upwards.
I poured on a nice thick layer,
making sure it was evenly spread
and in every nook and cranny,
then patted it down with my
fingers and left it to dry.
When dry I lay a plastic sheet (a bin liner is ideal for this) on the floor under the table to catch the loose
gravel. Then I tipped the house on its side and gently brushed it with a soft brush to remove the loose
gravel. The loose gravel can then be re-used on another part of the house. You can see here how lovely
this looks! I'm delighted with the effect.
My house is really starting to shape up now and the next
step will be to start sticking the brick slips to the walls.
A long job, but really worth the time spent for the lovely
effect it gives.
To see more of Julie’s beautiful work,

why not visit her website:
www.bellabelledolls.co.uk
Text & Photographs © Julie Campbell 2010
Aunt Anastasia
Greetings from Miniscule Manor! I'm Aunt Anastasia, your
very distant mini relative (sixth cousin, twice removed and
scaled down) and when I am not making the most fabulous
minis, sipping bubbly or bossing my butler Trotters about, I
just love helping miniaturists and solving problems of a
miniature nature, so if your paint won't stick and your glue
won't glue, get in touch:
auntanastasia@yahoo.com
Looking forward to hearing from you soon….
Aunt Anastasia
Aunt Anastasia I am absolutely, totally useless at Miniature decorating, that
is everything, mitreing coving and skirting, painting, hanging wallpaper. I am
just hopeless. It is so bad I could sit down and cry. My talents lay in polymer
clay food, soft furnishings etc. Making furniture from kits is a doddle and the bed linens are SO easy for me.
My husband gave me an enormous Georgian house for our wedding anniversary and I am really, really struggling
with the decorating. It is too big to move and take it to someone to do it for me. But the whole point is doing it
my self. Does it really, truly matter if the decorating is not perfect if the overall effect is good? I just feel that I
am not doing the house justice and it is really getting me down. Help!!! Jazz
Dear Jazz,
Aunt Anastasia, many moons ago, when she embarked on her first dollshouse, felt just the way you do, right now.
Oh, how I berated myself because my efforts were not up to the pictures that I saw in miniaturist books and
magazines. Cutting cove moulding and skirting board made my brain hurt and it never fitted, I rubbed the pattern
of wallpaper and we won't even mention the mess I made of the banister rail.
I was ready to give up when dear old Trotters gave a little cough and said "But, Madam, I thought this was
supposed to be an enjoyable pastime…" Of course, he was right, miniatures are supposed to be fun! It is your
house and no, it doesn't matter a fig if things are not perfect! Just remember, wallpaper is just paper: it can be
stripped off if you hate it, paint is just paint: it can be re-painted and wooden mouldings (if you just tack them in
place with glue here and there) can be replaced at a later date.
I still cherish my first house, based on Charles Dickens' London townhouse. Yes, there are "things I would do
differently", but I love it, even with its slight imperfections, which, by the way, no one else seems to see. I think
you will be pleasantly surprised by your efforts, once you get started. AA
Dear Aunt Anastasia, I was wondering if you could advise me. I have a bad back and I can't sit for very long and I
can't stand for very long either. Needless to say, this limits how long I can work on my minis. Could you
recommend a table that adjusts easily and that isn't too expensive? Pained in Preston
Dear Perplexed,
Yes, I can as a matter of fact and it won't cost you a penny, as you probably have one in your home right this very
minute. You see, Trotters who often helps me with my miniatures, sometimes suffers from a touch of lumbago.
So, what we do is this: we go downstairs and "borrow" Mrs. Murgatroyd's ironing board! With a large melamine
placemat to work on, Trotters can adjust the table to the perfect height easily, and when he is done, downstairs
it goes and my housekeeper is none the wiser.
Well, once again, I must close for now as Trotters tells me Harrison has brought the car around to the front
door. I'm off to have lunch with some of my old chums from St. Miniver's Private Academy for Young Ladies.
There is always lots of cake, champers and giggles.
Aunt Anastasia Artisans In Miniature 47

N
FEATEW
The Knitting Basket

URE!
If you want to learn more about miniature knitting

and sewing, then you are going to love this brand
new regular feature, written by Aim member
Frances Powell of Buttercup Miniatures...
Knitting in Victorian & Edwardian Times...

Although knitting started to become popular in Victorian times with the advent of Women’s Magazines,
many of the materials were not easy to obtain.
In the early Victorian times wool specially designed for knitting was not readily available, so people would
often use wool designed for tapestry. This was very fine, usually 2-ply, and thus required fine needles to
work it. Shops did not stock manufactured knitting needles so it was often down to the local blacksmith to
produce knitting needles. As no one was sure what these looked like they were often blunt ended (i.e. a
piece of wire cut and cleaned up so there were no jagged edges). In later Victorian times knitting needles and
wool were manufactured and became readily available.
Early patterns were often rather short and abbreviations varied greatly, as did stitch names and techniques.
Knitting patterns, in the format we know them today, evolved during the 1900’s. Early knitting patterns
were a series of instructions detailing the whole pattern, stitches used in a single short paragraph. Much was
left to the knitter to fill in. If a picture was included it was in the form of an engraving, which gave a general
idea of shape, but was not much use to someone making a first attempt at knitting.
These early patterns usually knitted garments in one piece and using two needles. A jumper would start at
the front and continue up over the shoulders down to the back, with stitches being cast on and off as
required for the neck. If sleeves were required stitches would be picked up at the armholes and the sleeves
knitted down to the cuffs. Knitting patterns retained this format and method of knitting until the 1930’s,
when garments became more figure hugging and so required more shaping within the pattern.
In early Victorian times, scarves, underwear, shawls and gloves were popular knitting projects, as were small
items for the house such as cushions and antimacassars (chair backs, to protect the furniture from the hair
oil favoured by men at this time). Baby and children’s clothes soon followed with patterns for cardigans and
coats becoming popular by the turn of the century. By the end of the nineteenth century wool, knitting
needles and patterns were readily available to all.
The way garments were constructed in Victorian times was very different from garments today. Underwear
especially seems strange, as it has to be remembered that the outer layers of clothing were often laced tight
or buttoned (zip fasteners were not yet invented) and ladies often required help with dressing.
Knitted underwear was often worn under corsets and bustles in Victorian open
drawers c.18
88
winter months, so if it was figure hugging and knitted in one piece it
had less bulk, especially where seams would have been visible (on
shoulders for example). Pink was a favoured colour for underwear.
The ‘open’ drawers shown here were worn up until the end of the
Victorian era; these consisted of two legs, which were only joined by
ribbing at the waist, leaving both legs completely separate. As
elastic was not common in the early days of the Victorian age,
ribbon was often used at the waist to make sure the drawers stayed
up. The ribbon was tied at the back of the drawers, as the dresses
had more bulk (such as padding for bustles) to disguise this bow. The advent of Ladies bicycles led to the
need for closed drawers, which were often a major undertaking in knitting, involving huge amounts of wool
to form the bloomers, so these were not often found.
Men’s underwear too was constructed in one piece (called combinations), which consisted of a pair of long
legged underpants and long sleeved vest combined. Flaps were found in the back and the front was buttoned
all the way down (to enable the wearer to perform bodily functions without the need to disrobe.)
It must be remembered however that although knitting was common by the second half of the Victorian age
it was done on very fine needles (the same sizes as we use for miniature work today) with 1-ply or 2-ply wool,
so this does not always work well in miniature, as the knitting can look very chunky in 1/12th scale
By Edwardian times there were a lot more patterns available thanks to patterns being
placed in weekly magazines for women. The garments were still constructed in the
same way as during Victorian times, but more variety in stitches and type of
garments was available. Patterns also started to take on their more common format
today with more detailed instructions and photographs of the finished item. Men’s
garments also became popular, as did outerwear for both women and children.
Thicker wools and larger knitting
1918 scarf, belt an
needles were also being developed. d Tam o’Shanter ha
t
Victorian Baby Bib c. 1880 During the 1914-18 war women were
also being encouraged to knit
comforts for the troops, such as underwear, socks, balaclava
helmets, scarves and mittens. By the end of the 1910’s
knitting was a common hobby for many women.
Frances Powell
If you would like to see more of Frances’
wonderful knitting, why not visit her website:
www.buttercupminiatures.co.uk
Photographs & Text © Frances Powell 2010 Artisans In Miniature 49

Cat Tutorial...
In 1:24th Scale...
By AIM Member, Nicky Cooper
Step 1: Start with a 7mm block of clay.
Instructions... Step 2: Roll into a ball and then form

into a cone shape.
Step 3: Indent around the thinner end to form a head.
Step 4: Pinch the head from the front to form a pointed nose.
Step 5: Indent the top of the head and the clay in an upwards direction to form ears.
Step 6: Now pinch the front of each ear to flatten them off slightly.
Step 7: Indent the ears with a cocktail stick or sculpting tool.
Step 8: Indent the eye area.
Step 9: Drag and indent the clay down from the eyes towards the nose on each side.
Step 10: At the nose area indent a cross this gives

the nose , mouth and cheek area.
Step 11: Your cat should now be starting to take
shape.
Step 12: Squeeze the clay at the base and roll it as
you pull down to form a tail.
Step 13: Take a 6mm ball of clay ready for the legs
Step 14: Pinch at the base of the body ready for
the back legs.
Step 15: Roll out and flatten your 6mm ball of clay
and cut off one third.
Step 16: Cut each of the two sections in half, these
form the back and front legs.
Step 17: Roll one of the larger sections into a ball
then pinch some forward to form a back paw. Do
the same with the other larger section as shown.
Step 18: Attach each section to the bottom of your
cat body like so by pressing them into the body
clay.
Step 19: Roll out the two smaller remaining sections into a
sausage.
Step 20: Upturn the ends to form paws.
Step 21: Place at the shoulders of your cat body as shown.
Step 22: Smooth these sections in to the cat body.
Step 23: Using a scalpel mark paw lines into your front and
back paws.
Step 24: Bake in an oven according to manufacturers

instructions I would bake the cat for approximately 45
minutes.
Step 25: Leave to cool completely, then you can either sim-
ply paint him as he is, or you can paint in the nose and eyes
and then flock him with some fibres to help bring him to
life.
Nicky Cooper
To view more of Nicky’s beautiful miniatures, why not visit her website;
‘Nicky’s Dolls & Critters’
www.nickycc.com
Artisans In Miniature 52 Text & Photographs © Nicky Cooper 2010
The Tool
Junkie
By AIM Member Mel Koplin
Hi. My name is Mel and I am a tool junkie. Taking this confession a step farther – I have no desire to be
rescued, reformed, to get my affliction under control, or to feel bad about it. Misery loving company
however, I will use this column over coming months to describe addictive little accoutrements that have
given me pleasure, stolen my treasure, and marked me for what I have become. With cunning little
offerings that make the impossible doable, difficult easy, and unlikely probable – I will entice innocents
into the shadowy world of alternative tools and confirm fellow addicts with new and irresistible fixes.
Welcome to The Tool Junkie

A task that frequently vexes miniature builders is that of
drilling tiny holes and getting them exactly where they are
wanted. The chisel point that runs between cutting edges
on standard twist drills frequently makes them “walk” away
from where they were applied.
Sometimes we can punch a little dip into the spot where we

want a hole to go. This prohibits drills from walking away
before they start cutting in that established spot.
Unfortunately, punching those dips (center punching) can

distort or damage the delicate pieces we are working on.
When a drill bit is of fair size, we can keep it from walking by
steadying it and our work piece in a drill press.
The tiniest sizes of drill bits, however, tend to be rather
flexible and we are right back to the spinning bit flexing
and walking away before it gets a positioning bite into the
target.
This photo (right) shows a 1/32” (0.031”) bit flexed, walking
away from its intended bull’s eye.
One way of avoiding such flexing would be to put the bit

way up into the chuck so only a little of the very end sticks
out. That may make it difficult to see your target through
the jaws of your chuck. Another solution would be to stiffen
the whole thing by making all but the drilling tip much
heavier. Enter the “center drill”.
Center drills have a heavy body that is

not prone to flexing and much tinier bits
at each end that may drill through thin
stock or provide a “centering hole” like a
center punch to guide full length bits for
deeper holes.
In machine shop parley, we say that they

are used for precisely positioned pilot
holes.
Here (left)you can see a neat row of

1/32” holes being drilled along a pencil
line in a strip of brass 3/32” wide. Nice?
The bell of our center drill where it

widens can champher the edge of holes
or, by going a little deeper, we get a one -
step hole with a countersink for flathead
Artisans In Miniature 54 screws.

Another difficulty with getting holes to go
where we want them comes when we want
to drill on a curved surface. Bits are
especially prone to walking themselves off
target on curves. Thin wall tubing in the next
photo could not hold up to a center punch
but none is needed with a “vee” block to
stabilize the tube and a center drill in the
drill press.
All in all, center drills are a habit forming,

essential tool for miniature projects where
precisely placed, tiny holes are needed in
delicate materials.
Body size (A) 1/8” (0.125”) diameter.
Size (B)Bit dia. (C)Bit depth Yes: There are other sizes both larger
and smaller but these four pretty much
#1 0.0468” 0.0468
satisfy my needs.
Ø (single .0312 (1/32”) 0.038 CAUTION: All quality drill bits
ought)
are hardened material in order
ØØ (double 0.025 0.030
to stay sharp. Combine
ought)
hardness with inflexibility and
ØØØ (three 0.020 0.030
ought) we do have something that
I usually offer #1 and #0 center drills on my web site and at shatters easily. USE PROPER
shows. They are frequently available in large cities at industrial
EYE PROTECTION!!!
hardware stores.
On-line sites that buy larger quantities than I; will frequently beat my prices. They will never beat my
humble appreciation or nominal shipping charges.
Next month: Drilling with bushing guides...
B^)? Mel K your Tool Junkie
Text & Photographs © Mel Koplin 2010
A Low Bed...
1:12th Scale...
By AIM Member,
Jane Harrop
Low wooden framed beds, with a base
made of rope, threaded through holes drilled in the frame have been well documented in the centuries
gone by. The frame, generally home made, was raised from the floor to protect the bedding and the
sleeping from vermin. A special lever was often used to tighten the bed cords.
1/2in (13mm) by 3/16in (5mm) obechi strip wood:
Materials...
Two 6 1/8in (155mm) lengths for sides
Two 4 3/8in (112mm) for ends
Four 7/8in (22mm) for legs
3/32in (2.5mm) hardwood dowel:
¾ in (19mm) length for lever
1/4in (6mm) thick wood:
Approximately 3in (76mm) by 2in (51mm) for spacer
7in (178mm) length of fine twine for rope
1/24th scale bed
1/4in (6mm) by 3/32in (2.5mm) obechi strip wood:
Two 3 1/16in (78mm) for sides
Two 2 3/16in (56mm) for ends
Four 7/16in (11mm) for legs
3/64in (1mm) hardwood dowel:
3/8in (10mm) length for lever
1/8in (3mm) thick wood:
Approximately 2in (51mm) by 2in (51mm) for spacer
4in (101mm) length of buff coloured button thread
Step 1.
Take the side and end pieces and measure and mark every 7/8in (22mm) at 1/12th scale and 7/16in (11mm)
at 1/24th scale on the wide side of the wood, 1/8in (3mm) at 1/12th scale and 1/16in (1.5mm) at 1/24th scale
in from one edge.
Use a 1/16in (1.5mm) at 1/12th scale
and a 1/32in (1mm) at 1/24th scale
drill bit to drill holes through the
wood at each marked spot.
Lightly sand and stain each of the
bed wood pieces and leave to dry.
Do not stain the spacer.
Step 2. Stand the spacer on its narrow edge in a right angled gluing jig. Position a
side wood piece up against the spacer, with the drill holes positioned as shown in
the photograph. Glue a leg on to each end of the side piece. Once dry, remove the
construction from the jig and repeat the procedure.
Step 3. Stand a construction so that the flush side and a leg rest against the edge of
the spacer and the drill holes are at the bottom.
Step 4. Take an end piece and rest on top of the spacer. Now carefully glue on to
the leg, without applying glue to the spacer. The drill holes should run in-line with
the drill holes on the side construction, and the piece should be flush with the
inside edge of the leg.
Note: On the outside, the end piece is inset from the outside edge of the leg.
Step 5. Once dry, repeat the procedure on the opposite end of the construction and then glue the
remaining side construction into place.
Step 6. Take the rope and stiffen one end with glue and leave to dry. Beginning at
one end on a side piece, thread the stiffened end in to a drilled hole. Wind the
opposite end around the lever and dab a little glue to secure.
Step 7. Thread the end of the rope in to the opposite drilled hole, pull until the
rope is taut and then thread the end into the next drilled hole. Take across the
frame again to the opposite hole and repeat the procedure until you have reached
the last drilled hole. Take the rope around the corner and begin to weave in and
out of the cords.
Step 8. Either knot or glue the end of the rope to hold into place. Trim any loose
ends off the rope to neaten.
© Jane Harrop 2010

www.janeharrop.co.uk
1/12th Scale Knitting Pattern
Ladies Camisole Top (c.1922)
By AIM Member Frances Powell
Historical note:
The camisole top at this time consisted
of a tube of fabric or knitting, which was
shaped and held to the figure by tying
ribbons. The garment may appear overly
large, flat and shapeless until the
ribbons are tied. By the 1930’s camisole
tops had a much more figure hugging
shape. The brassiere (bra) did not come
into common use until the early 1930’s
and these camisole tops were worn for
modesty as well as warmth, especially
as frocks and blouses were now being
made of finer silks and lawn materials.
Ribbons tied at the shoulders allowed
the straps to be tightened so the camisole stayed in place.
Abbreviations: st – stitch; k – knit; p – purl; ( ) – repeat instructions between brackets as detailed in text; p2tog –
purl next two stitches together to form one stitch; k2tog – knit next two stitches together to form one stitch; yrn
– place yarn round needle to form a stitch; sst – stocking (stockinette) stitch: one row knit, one row purl.
Materials required: one pair size 18 (1.25 mm/US size4/0) knitting needles, 25 metres 1-ply cotton, 1 metre of 2
mm wide silk ribbon for trimming.
Back and Front (make 2 alike)

Cast on 30 sts.
Rows 1-3: (k 1, p 1) to end.
Row 4 (make eyelets for ribbon): p 1, (yrn, p2tog) to last st, p 1.
Rows 5-20: sst
Row 21: k 1, (k2tog, yrn) to last st, k 1.
Row 22: p
Row 23: k 1, (yrn, k2tog) to last st, k 1.
Row 24: p
Row 25 (eyelets for ribbon): k 1, (k2tog, yrn) to last st, k 1.
Row 26: (k 1, p 1) to end.
Cast off in pattern.
Shoulder straps (make 2 alike)
Cast on 24 sts.
Row 1: (k 1, p 1) to end.
Row 2 (eyelets for ribbon): k 1, (k2tog, yrn) to last st, k 1.
Row 3: (k 1, p 1) to end.
Cast off in pattern.
To make up
1. With right sides together sew up side seams.
2. Sew shoulder straps to top of camisole, these should be positioned midway between the
side seams and the centre front/back.
3. Make sure the camisole is inside out. Cut a 4-inch/10 cm piece of ribbon, (making sure you
sew to the wrong side of work) sew the ribbon to the join of the shoulder strap.
4. Repeat step 3 on other end of shoulder strap (there is now a piece of ribbon sewn to each
end of the strap)
5. Thread the ribbon through a needle and carefully thread in and out the eyelets so the rib-
bons meet at the top of the shoulder, making sure the ribbon lies flat.
6. Turn right side out. Pull the ribbons up slightly and tie in a bow. Do not trim ends yet.
7. Repeat steps 3 to 6 on the other shoulder strap.
8. When you are happy that both shoulder straps are the same length and bows are level, cut
ribbon close to bow. If you are fitting the camisole on a doll, this may be left until the ribbons
are all threaded through the camisole.
9. Cut an 8-inch/20 cm length of ribbon and making sure you are working on the right side of
camisole carefully thread the ribbon through the eyelet holes made on row 25. Start at the cen-
tre front and work round the camisole top making sure the ribbon lies flat. Do not tie in a bow
yet.
10. Repeat step 9 but work around eyelet holes made on row 4.
11. Tie bow in upper line of ribbon, so the camisole is gently gathered but not tight. This upper
part should be wider than the waist on the finished camisole. Tie bow and trim ends. If fitting on
a doll it may be easier to complete this part before tying shoulder strap ribbons.
12. Pull up ribbons at waist and tie, but leave a longer ‘tail’ on the ribbon as shown in photo.
© Copyright F. H. Powell 2010

This pattern is for private use only and
may not be reproduced in any form for
www.buttercupminiatures.co.uk commercial gain, including selling any
Text & Photograph © Copyright F. H. Powell 2010 item knitted up from these patterns
without written permission from
Buttercup Miniatures
‘Getting
to know
you...’
In this regular feature a brave AIM member
answers our probing questions, helping you to
get to know both them and their work a little
bit better!
This month our willing victim volunteer is the talented Argentinean artisan;
Ernesto Baldini of Punto Sur Miniaturas
Can you tell us a bit about your
life before Miniatures?

Before I started making miniatures, I guess I
made miniatures… As a child, I built model
planes from plastic kits, then attempted to
paint them. I was about 10 years old… Then as a
teenager, I switched to painting metal figurines,
and then into sail ship building. That was when I
met my actual wife… she was making a
dollhouse for herself from scratch. Once
married, she brought that house in the building.
The house needed a structure, for the different
rooms where placed in a bookcase in her
parents house. Helping her and giving her a
hand to provide the house more
realism was a non back journey:
my sail ships are there yet, one half
Artisans In Miniature 60 way, another unopened…
As a child, what were your favourite toys?
My favourite toys as a child where a sail boat (it really sailed, it was red
with big cream sails), a farm set with lots of animals (which included wild
animals, so it evolved into a zoo) and my Playmobils.
What attracted you to miniatures in the first place?

What attracted me to miniatures in first place was… my wife! And I guess
the chance to learn, improve and apply a lot of techniques too. Discover-
ing dollhouse miniatures opened up to me a whole new world.
What was your first purchase?

I’m not quite sure what my first purchase was (in Argentina we lack of commercial miniatures, so we tend
to adapt everything). I think it was a glass flower pot.
What miniature item do you most covet?

A dog made by Kerri Pajutee, no doubt!
Who do you most admire in the miniature world?

Talent and modesty is what I most admire in the miniature world. I found the miniature world is a very
helping world, and I can say many worldwide recognized artisans proved to be helping and sharing.
Having no miniatures in my country was at first a big disadvantage, but we (my wife and me) turned it
into a chance by learning and making almost anything needed for a dollhouse. That also gave us the
chance to make some very good friends, and some of them we where able to meet when we travelled to
Spain last year.
What made you decide to specialise in
fantasy furniture and accessories?
As I said, we have almost no miniatures in
Argentina, so everything you have to do it yourself
(or pay astronomical amounts, three times what
you pay abroad, when our income is four times
smaller). We learnt to make the structure and
every piece inside, but I can say I am better at food
making, clay dogs, and especially cold porcelain
flowers. I guess it’s a matter of personal likes (I love
eating, love dogs, and I wish I had a great
garden!!!). Recently I got into making miniature
furred bears and they received some attention
right away, and I enjoy making them a lot.
Perhaps, that’s the key word: enjoy making the
miniatures you love.
Have you had any unusual commissions?
We had quite some unusual commissions, yes. Some of them we turned down (mostly they were asked for
with not enough time to make them, having no miniature culture people often think “if it’s small then it’s easy
and fast”). I can mention a scaled sex shop, and three dolls to be placed in one bathroom ( a man and two
women, no need to say more). I was also asked to make some rare dogs, for example a wirehaired fox terrier
with cropped ears.
Do you have any hobbies unrelated to miniatures?

I like clay modelling. My two-year-old son takes all the time I used to have for hobbies, LOL!
Any phobias?
.Well, a phobia well documented is… cockroaches! Also, but not as a phobia but as mania instead, having my
hands clean.
Fantasies?
A fantasy related to the miniature world is having the chance to attend to an international miniature fair as an
artisan. When we went to Spain, we were able to visit the miniature fair held in Valencia and we were in awe.
Everybody told us it was the smallest of fairs, but we had never been to a miniature fair (as miniaturists, we
take part in our country in hobby fairs and artisan fairs) and we were astonished! I can’t imagine how Chicago,
Madrid, Barcelona, Paris, Arnhem, Kensington or Milan would be!!!
You can see more of Ernesto’s wonderful work on his website:
www.puntosurminiaturas.jimdo.com
Photographs
Artisans In Miniature 42& Text (Answers) © Ernesto Baldini 2010
The Book Decorative Wall Painting
for Beginners
(Fine Arts for Beginners)
Corner... (Paperback) by Reyes Pujol-Xicoy.

Publiser: Konemann.
175 pages.
By AIM member, Louise Win Color photographs throughout.
Available from Amazon.co.uk -
Available from £0.01
I bought this book at a flea market and am using it in my
experimentation of miniature finishes. As would be expected, the
list of materials is lengthy and probably very costly.
I have bought only 1 or 2 of the materials recommended and have
thoroughly enjoyed the study of colour and texture, adapting many
of the techniques to suit our scales.
The basics such as materials, caring for brushes and preparing walls
for a finish are covered. Actual chapters are: Materials, Space and
Colour and Step by Step techniques. I did not find the techniques
complicated because my focus was on the overall look and I was able to break the steps down into easy
1-2-3's.
Thirty techniques are covered over a 120-page spread, with clear step-by-step colour photographs.
The techniques covered range from ragging, dragging, sponging, combing, relief combing, rolling off with
a rag, pine wood graining and stucco.
Stenciling covers diamond, bricks, old stone walls, granite, travertine, damask, mosaics, trellis and
graffito finishes. I do wish that stencil templates had been included - but the author does show how he
made the initial stencils. Rust techniques require difficult-to- obtain products, but the effect can be
copied using paint.
More interesting effects include raffia which is done by sweeping a large, wide brush. Moire, wood
graining and granite are also discussed. The bricks revealed on the cover of this book are amazing.
This book is for the miniaturist who enjoys working with colour and experimentation. I have learnt
much from it - after all, ours is an art that relies so much on the "real look".
www.louisewinminiatures.weebly.com
AIM member Vicky Guile shares her

way of making this luxurious
indulgence of caviar and soured cream
blinis in 1:12 scale.
Polymer clay in white, ecru, translucent &

liquid.
Soft artist pastel in light gold ochre.
Black ‘no hole’ Microbeads.
Matte acrylic varnish.
Tacky/PVA glue.
Craft knife or tissue blade.
Cocktail sticks & pin.
Soft paintbrush.
Wooden lolly stick or coffee stirrer.
Ceramic tile.
Talcum Powder.
Mix a small amount of the white and

ecru polymer clay until a light shade of
cream is acquired. Then mix in again
an equal quantity of translucent clay
to make the base colour for the blinis.
Roll into a log approximately 5mm
thick and cut enough slices 2mm wide
for as many blinis as you wish to
make.
Roll each slice of clay into a
ball. Dust the back of your
tissue blade with talcum
powder and use this to press
down on each ball to flatten
into discs approximately
1mm thick. If you don’t
have a tissue blade you can fig.3
flatten with your fingers
instead
Make some dust from the light gold ochre

pastel on a piece of scrap paper. Using a soft
paintbrush pick up a little of the pastel dust and
brush into the centre and around the outside
edges of each disc. Using your pin or cocktail
stick make indentations around the outer edge
of each disc.
Your blinis are now ready for their first baking.
Leaving them on the ceramic tile, pop them into
a preheated oven and cook as per the packet
instructions.
Once your blinis have been baked and cooled, wipe

down with a soft cloth to remove any loose or excess
pastel powder. On a corner of your tile mix together a
little white clay and a couple of drops of liquid clay with
your lolly stick or coffee stirrer.
Pick up a little of the mixed ‘soured cream’ clay with a
toothpick and apply it to the blinis in swirling motions.
Bake again as per the packet instructions.
In a small bowl (I use an old chipped mini

bowl) mix a small amount of black
microbeads with a couple of drops of matte varnish. Make sure that the beads are thoroughly coated as it is the
varnish that will hold them together. Spot a dot of tacky glue on to the top of each blini, then pick up a small
cluster of the varnish coated microbeads with a toothpick and place onto glue. When dry brush on another thin
coat of matte varnish. Leave to dry again and your blinis are finished!
Suggestion… why not try adding a sprinkle of chopped green clay for chives or replacing the caviar with salmon
made from striped peach and white clay thinly sliced?
All text and photos ©2010 Vicky Guile - NJD Miniatures
www.njdminiatures.blogspot.com Artisans In Miniature 71
A Simple Basket...
By AIM Member, Jain Squires.
This is a Project for making a simple little basket which could be
used to display all sorts of things.
If it is made in beige embroidery canvas it can look a very
convincing shopping basket, pet basket, etc.
The beauty is that it can be made in any size.
This basket is ideal for a ladies boudoir.
You will need.... PVA glue

Magnatac glue
Embroidery canvas (the stiff type) - the finer the better.
Silk ribbon
Lace
Elastic band
Suitable container
Ribbon to trim
instructions...
1. Decide how big you want your basket and what
shape and find a container of the right proportions
on the base. I used a nail varnish bottle.
The embroidery canvas needs to be cut generously.
2. Wet the canvas under the tap and then mould onto the container
securing it with an elastic band. At this stage it is important to make sure
there are no folds or creases. Just gently pulling and stretching the fabric
under the elastic band, you will get a smooth finish. Make sure the elastic
band is high enough up to be able to cut the basket under it when dry. Leave
to dry.
3. While waiting for it to dry. Take several long strands from the remaining
canvas fabric. I used 6 for this project. Plait them together, using a cushion
or similar to pin them to makes it easier. Take 3 more strands and twist
them together, I use a little PVA glue on my fingers to hold the twist in
place.
4. When the basket

it dry, remove the
elastic band and gently
remove the basket from
the container.
Then carefully cut round
to the size you require.
5. Cut the twisted

thread to size and glue
in place. Glue the
plaited trim along the
top edge.
6. I have decorated
this basket with a length
of lace with silk ribbon
woven through. Glued at the top on the outside.
To finish the decoration I have threaded the silk ribbon
around the handle and trimmed with 2 small silk ribbons.
7. The inside of the basket just has a little contrasting ribbon

glued in.
The basket can be filled with whatever you like. I
have filled this one with ladies toiletries,
to go in her boudoir.
To view more of Jain’s fabulous creations, why not visit her website;
‘The Giddy Kipper’
www.giddykipperdolls.com
Text & Photographs © Jain Squires 2010 Artisans In Miniature 81
Through
The Keyh le...
Ever wondered what it would be like to be able to have a closer look at the
working environments of AIM members? This month Mo Tipton tells us
more about her workspace in Columbia, Missouri...
One of my favourite aspects of working from home is the commute: I mosey a few yards across the room and
I’m there. No wiling away my mornings in mind-numbing traffic and no need for fancy business attire; my
comfy pyjamas do just fine. On a normal work day, after checking my business emails and packaging any Etsy
orders for shipment, I head over to my work table and wrap up loose ends from the previous day’s projects
before going over my to-do list.
If I have a show looming on the horizon, the list length is usually on par with the Dead Sea Scrolls and I will
often work well into the evening hours before calling it a day, but when I’m simply focusing on keeping my Etsy
shop well-stocked, I have a bit more freedom to pick and choose whichever projects I’m most in the mood to
work on.
Since moving to Columbia, Missouri, from Chicago nearly two years ago, I’ve found that I have much more free
time to devote to my miniature making, which is largely the reason that I have finally had the opportunity to
turn my favourite hobby into a
business, The Mouse Market,
and my workspace has
developed with my change in
priorities. While I’m still
working on our former kitchen
table, I no longer have to share
the space with a laptop, a pile
of junk mail, and my studying
fiancé, and my productivity has
increased dramatically.
My current focus is on 1/12 scale food and floral arrangements (the
latter being a more recent addition to my repertoire), so my work-
space is full of tiny dishes and silverware, moulds for tart crusts and
ice cream cones, and a rainbow of polymer clay blocks, among other
tools and supplies. I also have a miniature pastry shop room box set
up in one corner, which I use to photograph my pieces in their
“natural habitat,” and my laptop and a stack of cookbooks, which I
use for inspiration, are never far from reach.
Perhaps one of the best things about my workspace is the abundance

of natural light, which is not only a pleasure to work in, but it also
makes for wonderful photographs; however, if given a magic wand,
the one thing I would change about my space would be the storage
capabilities. I never seem to have enough room for my ever-growing
stock of supplies, and I would kill for a Martha Stewart-esque room
devoted entirely to my miniatures. In the meantime, I am quite
happy to spend my days crafting tiny tarts and other diminutive desserts on my “tabletop studio,” and I’m very
excited to see what this New Year will bring for The Mouse Market!
Mo Tipton
Text & Photographs ©

If you would like to find out more about the beautiful miniatures that Mo creates,
Kathy Brindle 2010
why not visit her website & Blog: http://themousemarket.com/

Etsy Shop: www.etsy.com/shop/mousemarket
Or contact Mo via her website/shop or themousemarket@gmail.com
Photographs & Text © Mo Tipton 2010
The Green Hedgehog...

Welcome to this new regular project column,
written by AIM Member Louise Win.
This month Louise brings us the next installment of her new regular series with the
second part of her fantastic ‘Tree Stump’ project.
Daffodils... 1:12th
You will need:
6 petal punch
(mine was 5 so
we have to adapt it)
Yellow and green paper
Foam pad
Ball stylus
Wire
Toothpicks
Tacky glue
Scissors
Dark yellow/light orange paint
Varnish (matt) to seal flowers
STEP 1...
Using a scrap booking punch, punch out 7
petals. You will notice that this punch should
have 6 petals so we are going to add another
petal into the cutouts by cutting a slit into
the flower and gluing in another petal (cut
from the 2 extra pieces).
Use ball stylus to shape. Glue flowers onto
wires. Dry.
STEP 2...
Cut strips of paper and roll around a
toothpick. Use a tiny bit of glue to add the
rolled piece onto the petals. Dry.
STEP 3...
Cut leaves from a rectangular piece of paper,
shaping 3 leaves next to each other (see
picture) and then roll around the wire.
Alternatively you could cut separate leaves

(different lengths) and glue onto wires. Add
separately into scene.
STEP 4...
Paint the bell part of the flower for depth . Set
into scene.
The basics of this tutorial can be adapted to any bird you
Bird: Bulbul...
wish to make.
You will need:

Fine wire available at scrap booking outlets
Good reference book for the bird
you wish to make
Polymer clay colors as required for your birds
Pastel powder colors
Varnish
STEP 1...
Take a piece of thin wire, bend to the length of the bird (a good
book is invaluable here - it will give you the length of the bird) and
bend as in the picture. The wire legs will be very long - this will
allow you to hold the bird whilst assembling it. If the wire legs are
the right length, you will not be able to work with it.
STEP 2...
Make up the main colors of the body of bird. Look carefully at your
reference picture.
Here I have taken the gray underbelly and added a touch of yellow for
under the tail. You will notice the head and tail pieces in black and the
wings in brown. Once you start assembling the bird, you will constantly nip
bits off to keep the size perfect.
STEP 3... (FINAL)

Add pastel powder colors to the wings etc to match the photo.
Remember, don't panic if your bird's body is a bit large - when birds have
bathed they fluff themselves up so you could add feathering by scratching
the fimo. Bake. When cool, lightly varnish. Add water into stump and other
birds or hedgehog etc. Have fun!
I hope you have enjoyed this project. Please email me any ideas for future projects.
Mini Hugs, Louise - louisewinminiatures@gmail.com
If you would like to find out more about AIM member

Louise Win, why not visit her website:
http://louisewinminiatures.weebly.com
Text & Images © Louise Win 2010
Mini Makes! By AIM Member, Debie Lyons
Mini Makes...
Secret Garden Part
Two !
A ‘Major Make’ With Mini Makes…

Finally spring has arrived and I hope it has inspired you to make the first part of the Secret
Garden that we showed you in last months AIM Magazine. This month we will show you how
to finish off your garden.
You might also like to look back over previous issues of the magazine and use some of the
projects that we have previously shared with you.
Please read all instructions carefully before you begin.
Materials needed...
Cardboard box card Paint (grey, brown, white)
Small paper flowers (Hobbycraft) Moss
Green paper Small Stones
(Sugar paper or Tissue Paper) Small Box
PVA Cocktail Stick
Scissors Thin Card
An Old CD Blue Tack
Tea leaves Pencil
Ready mixed filler
Stepping Stones... The first step (no pun intended

LOL) is to cut out several rough
circles or ovals of box card. Cover
them with ready mixed filler and
put to one side to dry.
When they are dry paint them

different shades of grey, let them
dry and then glue them in place
in your garden.
Take some moss and glue it in
Artisans In Miniature 88 some areas around the stones.

Pond... The pond is made from an old CD, (you might need to get an adult to do this for you) cut
a small oval from your CD. Stick the oval in place in your garden and then decorate
around its edge with small stones and moss.
If you don’t have a CD you can always make your pond from a piece of card covered in foil.
I have, for this project used some small pre made flowers but found
Flowers & Flower Bed... that they lacked extra leaves along their stems, so I decided to add
extra. I took some sugar paper and cut some small extra leaves
then I glued them in place along the flower’s stems. I also twisted some flowers together and added
leaves at the joins to make them look more realistic.
Then I put a thick line of PVA Glue along the

back wall of the garden and used tea leaves to
create a flower border. While the glue was still
wet I bent the ends of each flower into right
angles and then put them into the fake soil.
It is important to let this dry before you do
anything else. If the fake dirt in the border
doesn’t look deep enough or is covering the base of the flowers you can add more layers of PVA and
tea leaves. If some of you flowers are still floppy you can also use additional glue to fix them to the
wall of the garden.
To make the little birdhouse I have used a small box that

Bird House... I bought from hobby craft. I drew a triangle on the front
and then at the base of the triangle two lines either side
of the box (see picture), cut along these lines.
Then take a piece

of card for the roof
score it in the
middle and tape it in place. The little perch is a
piece of cocktail stick; you might need to get an
adult to cut this for you. To make the hole for
the perch I took a piece of blue tack put it at
the back of the house and then pushed a pencil
into the box from the other side. The blue tack
stops you hurting your fingers with the pencil.
When you have finished putting the house together
paint it and then stick it to the wall of your garden.
Happy mini making and don’t forget we would love
to see your projects and what you have made.
Please send all images to Debie Lyons:
hufflepuffed1048@aol.com
Happy Mini-ing Everyone...
All projects are intended for

children 14 years old and over.
Please note – although the projects in this column are for

children, adult supervision is recommended at all times.
The author cannot be held responsible for any accidents

arising from these projects and cannot take responsibility
for the final outcome of the project.
Artisans In Miniature 90 Text & Photographs © Debie Lyons 2010

10 am, Sunday, March 14, 2010 at the Japanese Canadian
Cultural Centre in Toronto saw the start of the 22nd annual
Willowdale MiniMakers Miniature Show.
With just under 20 exhibitors/dealers showcasing Canadian

artisan miniatures of all kinds, it was an intimate and
enjoyable time for those behind and in front of the tables.
Three members of AIM were amongst the exhibitors: Martha

McLean with her fabulous flowers...
www.marthamcleanminiatures.com
...Glen & Nancy Anderson with their wonderful furniture and

a very special little miniature of their own...
www.keendersonminiatures.com
...and Westwinds Miniatures (yours truly) with all things

"girlie" and accessorized furniture.
In spite of the rain (or perhaps because of it) and it being the
beginning of the March break holiday for students, the
collectors came in a steady stream until the last hour. All in
all, it was a good day and a show that we will look forward to
next year.
Julie & Brian Dewar - Westwinds Miniatures

Please, take a moment to view our photo gallery...
http://picasaweb.google.com/westwindsminiatures
Faux Flowery Iron Bed

In Quarter Scale...
By AIM Member, Shelly Norris
Headboards & Foot-board by
Materials... Grandt Line # 356

(I purchased mine from The Vintage Dollhouse)
Small Piece of foam core
Bedding
*NOTE: This little tutorial focuses more on the flowers rather
than dressing the bed.
Top tip…
For the flowery vines you will need: You always w
ant to twist th
Fingernail polish or Acrylic paint/Sobo mix e
tool and wire
counter
Fine beading wire clockwise or y
our twists will
Toothpick not hold...
Leaves... Step 1: Pull out a piece of wire approximately 6” long, do not cut it from the spool,
with your toothpick in your dominant hand, place the beginning of your wire in front
of the tool and go up and over the toothpick. So you should have the end of your wire in front of the tool and
the rest behind the tool.
Step 2: Grasp both wires just below the tool and twist counter clockwise, repeat for 3 twists, this is your first
leaf eventually.
Step 3: Remove your tool from the loop and repeat step 1, only this time we want 2 leaves closer together,
so this is how to do that, wrap your wire around
the tool, do 1 twist under the tool, wrap your wire
again and twist 3 times. Keep moving down the
wire until you have a length of wire leaves 2”-2
1/2” or to fit your bed frame.
Step 4: Repeat Steps 1 – 3 for the foot-board.
Step 5: Now, you have your leaf vine. Let's make
leaves. Take a pair of fine pointed tweezers and
grasp the top of your loop (furthest part of loop
away from twist) and gently twist slightly with the
tweezers to create a point in your leaf.
Step 6: When you get to the sets of leaves you will need to
lay the leaf down before creating the point, and the way to
do this is to grasp each loop and twist counterclockwise until
flat. Now put the points in.
Step 7: Repeat for your second leaf vine.
Flowers...
Step 1: Repeat Step one from the leaves
section.
Step 2: Grasp both wires with one hand and
twist 1 time counterclockwise. DO NOT
REMOVE LOOP. Now go back up and over your tool close to the first
loop and repeat. Repeat until you have 4 loops on tool, at the 4th loop
when you twist you will want to twist 3 times. Now remove loops
carefully from your tool.
Step 3: Move down your wire approximately 1/4” and repeat Step 2
until your flower vine is the same length as your leaf vine.
Step 4: Repeat the vine a second time.
Step 5: We need to now lay each flower petal down so that we can
shape them into a flower.
For these we want just a tiny point in each petal...keep them more
rounded. When you have them shaped to your satisfaction make sure that each petal is NOT touching the
others.
*The picture shown (above right) does not represent the 4 petal flowers and we want the petals more
rounded than this.
Step 1: If you are going to use fingernail polish, I would do the green first on the stems and
Painting... leaves. To fill the leaves go at an angle across the petals. It make take 2 coats to completely
cover the wire.
Step 2: To use the acrylic paints and sobo, just put a little glue onto a paper plate and add a
drop or 2 of paint, completely mix these together. For the green leaves, Paint one side with this mixture in-
cluding the stems. Hang to dry. You will want to do the fronts and the backs but you have to let one side dry
before doing the other.
Step 3: For the flowers, repeat the above steps depending on which way your are doing them. Flowers you
only paint the backs. Let all dry completely before moving to the next steps.
Assembly...
Step 1: First you will need to shape your flower vine. You do this by gently grasping each
petal of the flower and pull them up so that they are closer together, give them a slightly
cupped shape, I also put a dab of glue in the center and add some yellow or brown
flocking.
Step 2: Take one leaf vine and one flower vine, lay the flowers on top of the leaves and gently twist them
together.
Attach the completed vines to your bed frame by weaving the flowers and leaves in and out of the frames and
doing a spot glue here and there where needed. Make your mattress to fit the bed by cutting foam core. I
used superglue to attach to the frames. Use thin materials for the sheets and covers.
These could also be wound up and glued to a bed post on a canopy bed.
Shelly Norris
To view more of Sherry’s lovely miniatures, why not visit her website;
‘Alibaba's Miniature Art’ www.alibabasdollhouseminiatures.vstore.ca

Text & Photographs © Shelly Norris 2010
The Miniature...
dinosaurs…!
Newly available from Wendy's Miniatures, tiny
laser cut tyrannosaurus rex, triceratops and woolly
GRAPEVINE mammoth models that look super in 1:12 scale.
www.wendysminiatures.com
NE W New AIM Members

We would like to extend a warm welcome to the
following new members who have joined AIM in the
past month:
Elfi Cella Glen Anderson Dancing in the meadow...
Mel Koplin Dolores van den Acker Angelique Miniatures is
Dawn Schiller Vanesa Pizarro proud to present the
second in her limited
Marsha West Tori West edition miniature dolls
Melanie Navarro Robert Off “the Dancing Years”
Tony Broadwood Jane Laverick This 12th scale miniature
porcelain ballerina is
dressed to perfection by
Louise Goldsborough.
A LITTLE HEAD START… This pretty blonde ballerina wears a colourful
New from Mel Koplin Alpine style costume of blue red and ivory pure silk
embellished with fancy braid, delicate cotton lace
Mel will be introducing a little “Head Start” at the
and tiny red bows.
Chicago International this month. Overlapping wire
Each doll is supplied on a
spoke wheels with brass and cherry wood chassis
painted removable stand
and suspension have a platform predrilled for floral
and comes with her own
wire and another for those who would rather drill in
numbered limited edition
their own pattern.
card.
Primarily for those working with wicker but not
Limited edition of only 5.
confident with brass and wood this is NOT a kit.
Visit Louise’s website to order:
Rather a collaboration, between Mel and you.
Wicker design and creation are up to you. No www.angeliqueminiatures.co.uk
advance orders are being accepted but Mel is happy
to answer questions addressed to miniature dog...
If you are looking
Mel-Miko@Clear.Net for a miniature
dog to bring life
to your miniature
setting you cant
go wrong with
this wonderful
border collie .
Visit Pearl’s website to see more

www.literatureinminiature.co.uk
New Patterns from New spring
La Petite Belle paterns… crochet
There are three new patterns for April . A
contemporary wedding gown with woven ribbon
patterns
1/12th scale crochet
skirt .
pattern CP 52 to make
An instruction book for
crochet Daffodils, Narcissi
completing the hose, tap
and Basket £ 2.00 available
panties (French knickers) and
now from
double ruffle garter.
A man’s pattern depicting http://store.buttercupminiatures.co.uk/
John Singer Sargents painting www.buttercupminiatures.co.uk
of Lord Ribblesdale.
All patterns contain patterns
directions and diagrams.
The man’s pattern contains
patterns, directions and
diagrams to complete mock
stockings, boots , pants, shirt,
vest, coat, hat and riding
whip.
Kathi Mendenhall , IGMA Artisan

La Petite Belle Patterns
www.minipatterns.com
April event in Argentina...
Punto Sur Miniaturas will be taking part at
ExpoHobby 3 with an exhibition table this April.
The event is going to take place in April 15th, 16th
and 17th from 13hrs to 21 hrs, Sarmiento 1867,
Buenos Aires, Argentina.
Greater Cleveland show This is a great opportunity to approach to a hobby

which is slowly growing in Argentina, yet not
usa… widely know. They will be showing several
AIM members Wendy Smale of Wendy's different pieces and presenting the schedules for
Miniatures: www.wendysminiatures.com workshops related to simple furniture making,
and Linda Master of Miracle Chicken Urns miniature plants and flowers, miniature dogs and a
www.miraclechickenurns.com single scene.
will be at the Greater Cleveland Miniature Show,
Ernesto has said they will be glad to meet you if
USA, on Sunday, April 25th. Wendy makes and
you attend the show, so do not hesitate into intro-
sells pure silk pillows and natural history in ducing yourself to the ones wearing the "Punto Sur
miniature, Linda does incredible carvings and Miniaturas" badge.
paintings. This will be Linda's first ever show, so a
wonderful opportunity to see her work in person. http://picasaweb.google.com/ernestobaldini
Show details can be found at: http://puntosurminiaturas.blogspot.
www.clevelandminiatureshow.org
Alice in wonderland... 1:48th scale from
Petite properties ltd…!
Petite properties are delighted to announce that
their latest 1:48th
scale Book & Kit
package:
Flower Pot Cottage
will be released for
sale ‘ONLINE’ on their
website on Tuesday
6th April - alongside
Alice in Wonderland fans will love the much anticipated
these new minis by AIM member Jean first project book in
Day their new
‘Making Furniture In 1:48th’ series!
Flower Pot Cottage:
If you would like to find
Book & Kit Package is
out more about Jean’s
priced at an
stunning miniatures,
why not visit her website unrivalled £26.99
for more information... and the ‘Making
Dolls House Furniture
In 1:48th Scale…’
booklet is priced at
only £5.99!!
Why not order
www.jdayminis.com yours today?
www.petite-properties.com
The post Box

At AIM, we love to hear what our readers think of our magazine and of our member’s
wonderful miniatures.
Maybe you have followed a project and are thrilled with the results ?
Maybe you have been inspired by something you've seen in the magazine ?
If you would like to share your news and views with us, please email Julie at
belljulie1@aol.com
(Please remember to put ‘The Post Box’ in the subject header of the email)
AIM Magazine Reader Wanna sent in this letter...

Please extend my compliments to all those who participated in putting
your online magazine together. It is uniformly excellent each month,
and the photography is the best I've seen!
Wanna
Artisans In Miniature 96 http://wannainelpaso.com/latest_projects/index.shtml
COMING nEXT
MONTH…
Don’t Miss A Thing!
All FREE and fully

downloadable at:
Fabulous FREE projects;

written exclusively by
AIM members!!!
Written by artisans Enjoyed by miniaturists...!

Please Note:
The projects included in this publication are not suitable for children under the age of 14*
The miniatures featured in this magazine are collectors items and therefore unsuitable for children under 14*.
All projects are undertaken at your own risk. AIM does not accept responsibility for any injury incurred.
All articles and photographs used in this magazine are copyright of their authors.
The AIM magazine’s content is for private use only and it must not be reproduced in part or in full for commercial gain in any form.
Each artisan contributor is responsible for their own work / contribution to the AIM magazine
and retain full responsibility for their published work.
The authors/self publishers cannot be held legally responsible for any consequences arising from following instructions,
advice or information in this magazine.
*with the exception of the Mini AIMers feature which is written especially for children under 14.
This issue would not have been possible without the generous
contributions from the following AIM members…
Many thanks therefore go to...
Ana Anselmo Helena Bleeker Mary Williams
Annemarie Kwikkel Jain Squires Mel Koplin
‘Aunt Anastasia’ Jane Harrop Melanie Navarro
Bea (Fiona) Broadwood Janet Harmsworth Mo Tipton
Béatrice Thierus Janine Crocker Montse Vives
Carol Lester Julie Campbell Nicky Cooper
Christa Chayata Julie & Brian Dewar Pauline Everett
Christina Berry Kathi Mendenhall Philippa Todd
Debbe Mize Kathy Brindle Sally Watson
Debbie Wright Kiva Atkinson Sarah Maloney
Debie Lyons Linda Cummings Shelly Norris
Ernesto Baldini Linda Gale Stéphanie Kilgast
Frances Powell Louise Win Teresa Thompson
Francesca Vernuccio Mags Cassidy Vicky Guile
Grace Griffin Maia Bisson Viola Williams
Hazel Dowd Margaret Pitts
Helen Woods Mary Godfrey
See you again next month…!

AIM Mag Issue 22 April 2010

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Contents…

April 2010: Issue No 22, Cover Image: Janine Crocker

...and do you already know about the Artisans In Miniature Website,

We have lots of links…to Fairs and Events Organizers…Magazines…Online Miniature

If you’d like to contact us, copy, paste and CLICK...

Janine Crocker I must confess that I am not particularly a ‘girlie girl’…

I spend a lot of time looking

(Below) Chiffon & Silk (Below) Black tulle &

A basic piece of dollshouse

Living on such a remote island as

1:24th scale hats...

The dressed armoire....

Text & Images ©

Look out for a wonderful

Mags started a blog, at first, to make contact with other

The Fan: A truly versatile accessory

It is fascinating to see how multifaceted this beautiful item has been.

It was used to commemorate a country’s special event or to celebrate an important

And of course, it is also an instrument for flirtation and a means of

If the fan was open and hid the eyes it meant:

Photographs & Text © Maia Bisson

By AIM Member Philippa Todd

Text & Photographs ©

www.toddtoysandminiatures.com Artisans In Miniature 21

The Tap Pants

1. From the remainder of the lace or edged trim,

2. Mark each cut edge about 1/4" from the

Stumpwork - Fuchsias & Humming Bird..

Full Size and Technique:

Old Books (Available Libraries or second hand bookshops)

Magazines: Published Quarterly

Artisans In Miniature 30 Text & Images © Helen Woods 2010

Are YOU a professional miniature artisan??

Do you sell quality handmade miniatures to the public??

Do you want to showcase your work and talents on a global platform??

Do you want to be part of a supportive professional association??

AND do you want it all for FREE???

If you answered 'YES' to EVERY question…

AIM is completely FREE to join and completely FREE to be part of.

more about joining the AIM Association,

please email AIM’s Membership Secretary: Mary for more information:

Before I started work on my house, I looked on the internet and magazine’s to

The bedroom I have

Finally I put up some

Beside the bedroom ,I have finished the kitchen can be viewed

The living room and attic are still empty…..something for me to

do in the future...!! Christa Chayata.

2 figure out the best working order for me.

house a whole lot easier.

The window surrounds and shelves

I then began the prep for the win-

First I sorted out which trim went

There are no pictures of the actual

You can see here how

I'm really happy with the colour

I bought some strips of balsa wood from Hobbycraft

Why didn’t I think of it before! I simply cut a piece of

Once the PVA was brushed on I

To see more of Julie’s beautiful work,

Aunt Anastasia Artisans In Miniature 47

The Knitting Basket

If you want to learn more about miniature knitting

Knitting in Victorian & Edwardian Times...