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Food Arts - Modernist Cuisine

Food Arts - Modernist Cuisine

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Published by ModernistCuisine
Food Arts profile of Modernist Cuisine.
Food Arts profile of Modernist Cuisine.

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Published by: ModernistCuisine on Dec 30, 2010
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Ats & Medi aKitche Sp
 I scoie had bee a scie-iic podiho sdied ih Sephe aki ad oked as Bi aes’  ech bai a icoso, he he od hae ie he och-a-bases, mi ome che d’ oee o mode cooke aha hod is bii o hisea. e Akiso epos om iside he aboaokiche. ab phoos b  J im ekes.
ou·li·e
 
n
 
1.
an outco p o ock that is se paated om a main o-mation 
2.
 a se paate  pat o a s y stem,o g anization, o bod y  that is atsome distance om the main  pat 
 3.
somebod y  ho lies a lon g  a y  om his o he  place ook
 E n a  a ®  old   E n g  s  h  D on a  y ©   9 9 9  M o s o  f   o po a on.A  g  h s   s .  D lo p   f  o  M o s o  f    y  B oo m s  y  P li  s  hin g   P . M on s  s in : hAnn o  f  oo kn g 
 is scheduled to be eleased in Decembe 2010. he autho, 
hn M y hold
, is the omechie technolo g  y  oce o Micosot and co-ounde o In-tellectual entues,“ a m dedicated to ceatin g  and inestin g  in inentions.”  e has s pent the last thee  y eas deelo pin g  hat he calls an “ enc y clo pedic teatment o moden cookin g .”  he 2,400- pa g e book ill be eleased in e hadcoe olumes  plus a ate- pooed s pial-bound kitchenmanual contained in a sli pcoe; list  pice is $62 5 . M y hold’ s ok is not onl y  un pecedented in its sco pe and scale, buthis cedentials as a scientist ae unmatched.M y hold  g aduated om hi g h school at a g e 14, eaned a mas-te’ s de g ee in mathematics,  g eo ph y sics, and s pace  ph y sics om CLA, and anothe maste’s in mathematical economics om inceton. e com pleted a h.D. b y  a g e 23. Since then he has con-tibuted to the undestandin g olobal climatechan g e,huicanes, dinosaus,and theeadication omalaia in mosquitoes.M y hold is an actie inento, ith neal y  2 5 0  patents issued o  pendin g in-cludin g  seeal elatedto ood technolo g  y . hile he as still at Mi-cosot, hetook a leaeo absence to unde g o an intensiesieek  poessionalculina y   po g amith 
Anneilln
 at the Écolede la aenne inillecien, ance.An y one lookin g  o moe culina y ce-dentialsmi g ht note that M y hold sees as the chie  g astonomic oce o the a g at sue y .“ I hae knon 
im 
and 
in  g 
 o 
 
FooDArTS SePTeMber
2010
38
 
39
FooDArTS SePTeMber
2010
and vaius cntiuting wits and dits. Th kitchn cw isld y Myhvld’s c-auth,
Chris Young
, wh svd as pn-ing chf f th xpimntal kitchn und
Heston Blumenthal
 at
The Fat Duck
in bay, england, and hlpd dvlp sm f that stauant’s mst innvativ dishs. Yung and dgs inmathmatics and ichmisty at th Univsity f Washingtnand lft hind his dctal wk t ck with
William Belick-
a 20,000-squa-ft laaty acss twn with an additinal7,000-squa-ft stag spac acss th stt. In additin tstat-f-th-at vns, cktps, and figatin quipmnt, thculinay la asts cmi vns, fz-dis, cntifug machins,stag quipmnt f liquid nitgn, hmgnizs, and a spay di. bsids th ppstusly wll-quippd culinay la, th’sa ilgy la, a chmisty la, las f phtnics, lctnics, “smallthings,” and m. Th’s an insctay (asically a m f inscts),husing msquits f malaia sach, a phtgaphy studi, anda machin shp. Additinal quipmnt f th vaius las is stdin a 30,000-squa-ft wahus in th nay twn f Knt.F th k pjct, Myhvld hid 15 ppl, including vpfssinal chfs, a full-tim phtgaph, an at dict (whlft his j at
Scientic American
t cntiut t th pjct), wittn aut th nw cking, ut wh knws hw lng it wuldtak that t ccu.”
in·tel·lec·tu·al
 
 adj 
 
1.
lating t  invlving th mntal pcss-s f astact thinking and asning ath than th mtins
2.
having a highly dvlpd aility t think, asn, and und-stand, spcially in cminatin with wid knwldg
3.
intnddf, appaling t,  dn y intllignt ppl
 n 
smdy with ahighly dvlpd aility t asn and undstand, spcially if als wll ducatd and intstd in th ats  scincs  njying ac-tivitis invlving sius mntal fftIntllctual Vntus is asd in a suit f fcs in a swank f-c pak in bllvu, Washingtn. Th cmpany als ccupis yas,” h says. Myhvld als cunts fd scintist
Harold Mc-Gee
amng his cls finds and has dind with him at
El Bulli
,
Ferran Adrià
’s tmpl f mdnist cking in rss, Spain.Whn h st applid t th pgam at La Vann, Willan wasduius. Myhvld had nt includd a wk ésumé. “S I tund inmy full ésumé listing my psitin at Micsft. Sh calld m ackand said thy had lts f th pgams that might  m app-piat f a nvic ck, and I said n, I want t d th pfssinalthing.” Willan snt a psntativ (Sattl ckk auth andculinay instuct Cynthia Nims) fm th schl t intviw this unusual candidat. Myhvld calls that h was askd t dis-cuss th lativ cking tims f th stcks: val, chickn, andsh. “I gt th tims all ight, ut thy cmmndd I d a
 stage
ata stauant.” S Myhvld tund in an xtnsiv
 stage
at
Thierry Rautureau
’s
Rover’s
stauant in Sattl, wh h wkd n10 hu day a wk f a pid f aut tw yas.“I think I land at last as much at rv’s as I did at La Va-nn,” says Myhvld. “I usd t say I nly call tw ppl ssand nly n f thm cais a nin-inch knif.” bill Gats didn’tcay th knif. “H didn’t hav t,” jks Myhvld.
 
In a 2008 aticl f
The New Yorker 
, Malclm Gladwll, authf 
The Tipping Point, Blink
,
 
and
Outliers
, dscid Myhvld as “ g- gaius, nthusiastic, and ndy n an pic scal.” And in
Outliers
,Gladwll cits Myhvld whn h ppss that succss in a givnld has as much t d with gnatin, family, and class as it ds with inhnt gnius.only smn n in Fanc in th mid-19th cntuy culdhav n in a psitin t cmpil th
Guide Culinaire
, August es-cf’s thugh tm that xpssd his vast xpinc with thcuisin f his a. And nly ths n in th aly 20th cntuy culd hav had th pptunitis, th cnnctins, and th matui-ty t cmplt
 Mastering the Art of French Cooking 
as th Julia Childand h dit, Judith Jns, w. It als hlpd that Child’s kcam ut whn th ppula st lady Jacqulyn Knndy had justhid Fnch chf rné Vdn t ck at th Whit Hus, mak-ing Fnch fd synnymus with psidntial chic f th sttim sinc Thmas Jffsn ccupid th plac.Giftdnss and had wk w pat f th sty in th mak-ing f th f ths ks, ut s w timing and pptunity. Allths things appa t hav cm tgth in
 Modernist Cuisine
as wll. Myhvld’s giftdnss is unimpachal, ut his wk is alsa ctin f a paticula tim and plac. bn in Sattl in 1959,Myhvld has n in a uniqu psitin t d what h has dn. Adcad ali, h might hav n t mly ntnchd in tadi-tinal culinay tchniqus t cnsid th mdnist mvmnt;a dcad lat, smn ls might hav at him t th punch.Withut his Micsft cnnctins and th hundds f millinsf dllas h accumulatd th, h might nt hav had th tchni-cal savvy  th nancial sucs t tackl what has n an incal-culal psnal invstmnt in this pjct.“This k,” says Myhvld, “is smthing that I was in a p-sitin t d, and it wuldn’t hav happnd in any th way f a vy lng tim. Yu knw, vntually th wuld hav n ks
Overleaf: Team Myhrvold called upon a refractometer, pH meter, pressure cooker, sous-videequipment, Thermomix, and anti-griddle to produce the components of duck Apicius: duckstock, pomegranate with garum juice, quince jelly, braised turnips with saffron, spiced honeyglass, date puree, and rendered duck. Photo by Ryan Smith. Man over machine: Nathan Myhr-vold with a larger-than-life rotary evaporator, which he has mastered. Above: A bisected wokprovides a close-up for a detailed dissection of stir-frying. Photo by Ryan Smith.
 
Food Arts september
2010
 
40
“W wan  hw f  l in a way i han’ n nf,” ay myhvl, ciing h vaiu c h -ly  ull gh wha will cainly  ga a n f h ignican k au f v ulih. Lavihly illu-a wih unning hgah, any f h clx iagha hw ic cking quin valing f ini  n in h c f unging h chang acia wih ingck, h k cnain 180 “aaic ci,” which a -nially cha ha vi ail f aaing aic chniqu cic ingin. th “aaic” cnain an avag f 10“fulaic ci” ach. th hun an ighy-n “xalci” w ini y claic  viuly ulih ci, aa f ci cniu y wking chf cically f h jc. Fy-igh iginal “la ih” ci, which in-clu u-ci an fula f auc, ganih, an i ih- inclu an avag f v aa ci ach. th vic ian h laugh ul hugh: “I hink w ucc!”
cui·sine
 
n
 
1.
a ci yl f cking, cially n ha i n-al f high qualiy 
See also haute cuisine
 
2.
 h ang f f -a y a aicula auan, cuny,  iniviual“th  vlu f h k,
 History and Fundamentals
, i au hhiy f n cuiin. Wll, acually,” nhu myhvl, “i’au h hiy f 
 all 
cuiin. W a a h sn Ag!” evy-hing myhvl unak i chaaciz y a n-hl-a,ky’-h-lii aach ha an h laying l an nu wl f iilii in vy jc h unak. Hi in- in clgy an quanu l hy l hi  a -calfllwhi wih clgi shn Hawking; aling in hg-ahy inci a liflng in in nau an willif hgahy ha wn hi an Innainal Cnvain phgahy Awain 2008; an an in in acu  hi  cna a ha wn  lac in val cagi a h 1991 WlChainhi f bacu. s i  nly ing ha wha a- a a 500 ag ai n u-vi chniqu hul xan inhi hh wk. In   u h ni culinay v-n in civ, an  a hi va inllcual cuiiy,myhvl unfl lay un lay f ackgun aial.“Wh i ni cuiin c f? Wh i nuvllc f? Wha a h fc ha ha n ining aun h wl? An wha’ h hilhy hin hi? bcau n f hhing ha’ ining au n gany i ha i’ quiinllcually in, a lil  hilhical ha han inag a.“oiginally h k wa ging   a k au u-vi,”h ay. di
Thomas Keller
, wih hi 2008 k
Under Pressure
,a hi  i? “N, n ally. tha wan’…” h hia. “ouu-vi cha i ill a vy iffn wk han Kll’ k.Kll’ k i aially au chniqu, u a l f i i au hi ga ci. m k a nly au ci; hy’ n auchniqu, cau h chniqu a alay u h. thy’llnly xlain a chf’ aicula wak n a chniqu.” Kll’
The
 
is
a sal’ mial auan. Whil h wa a th Fa duck,Yung wa nil f anaging ci vln f hbbC hw 
 Perfection: With Heston Blumenthal 
. H ha win x-nivly n h cinc f f an cking f
The Fat DuckCookbook
an ha ulih chlaly ach in h
 Journal of  Agricultural Chemistry and Food Science
.Yung’ igh-han an in h kichn i
Maxime Bilet
, whan a g in englih f ski, in saaga sing, Nw Yk, hn gaua wih high hn f h Iniu f Cu-linay eucain in Nw Yk Ciy. H v a ha chf a
 Jack’sLuxury Oyster Bar
f ving  Lnn  acc a iina a
 stagiaire
wih h vln a a th Fa duck, wh h Yung. Whil h wa in aining  c a u chf a hLnn anch f 
Auberge de L’Ile
, h wa af  jin h cu-linay a a th Cking La.
Anjana Shanker
, anh - f h a, v a u chf a
Scott Carsberg
’ auanLaia in sal. sh ncuag myhvl  xl cuian vl v f h uing u-vi chniqu.
 Johnny Zhu
 hl
Eric
an
Sophie Bahn
n
Monsoon
in bllvu an cn-iu hi unaning f suha Aian av  h jc.th chf all wk wh in h nighh f 60 hu a wk  vl an n ci f h k.Cwn wih wi f gaying ln hai,myhvl’Nic faci uncua wih illian lu y. An whn h alk au hk, hicafully ula vic call  in Gn Wil’ -fanc in h 1971 vi
Willie Wonka & the Chocolate Factory
. Aany givn n h lk lik h igh  au  laugh, an hfn i.
Any dish—modernist or traditional—depends on the quality of its ingredients: test tubes andbottles of spices in the kitchen lab.

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