Introduction

Clothing
MSc. Pavla Vozková
• Apparel – Clothing industry follow textile industry closely
• Need special organisation
• Automatisation of some operations
• Ready-made (mass-customized)
x made-to-measure (tailored) clothes
• Clothing products: Upper clothes, underwear, accessories
• Clothing materials: All textile and non-textile materials
used for clothes construction
• Clothing materials: fabrics, bits and pieces (textile,
technical)
 What satisfy consumers needs
• Producer – easy production, economical production
• Consumer – aestetics, price, value, comfort, durability,
care, functional use
• Prize classification – Low-end – prize is the primary
point of competition, less quality
- Moderate – low prize, better quality
- Better – style and fit, smaller proportion of market
- Designer – high style, quality, prize, known name
Process analysis Complex
production process
Sum of
technological and
operational
processes during
which rise clothing
product
• Main
• Auxiliary
• Secondary
processes
• Management with
the material and
complete products
 Technical preparation of production

• CPP – documentation for cutting process

• TPP – documentation for production phases
Designing
• Style description – brand, selling period, target group,
selling strategy, fashion line
• Sizing and fitting – size standards, body proportions,
age, gender, body types, size ranges
• Material selection – material characteristic properties,
drapability, count, different right and wrong sides,
weight, structural design, colour, finishes
• Special needs – special use, special applications, needs
of special target group
• Possibilities of construction during processing
• Components assembly – peaces completing
• Final assembly, style presentation
 Production planning
• Basic style construction, pattern
making
• Shape modification according to
model picture, structuring and
segmentation
• Gradeing – fitting for various
standartized sizes
• CIM construction integrated
manufacturing
CAD, CAE, CAP, CAM, CAQ
(computer aided design,
engineering, planning,
manufacturing, quality)
 Software
• Computer aided design
• MTM software
• V-Stitcher software
• Mass customisation of MTM
Technical drawing
 Cutting process
• Acceptance and sorting of obtained materials - Material
spreading - Cutting of designed parts - Preparing of design parts
for sewing process - sepatation of parts which will be sewed
together - Bonding of reinforcement
• Cutting, shearing, carving, clicking
• Spreading affected by table length, type of equipment, spread
length, spreading time, cutting time
• Nonconventional methods – water jet, laser, plasma, hot air,
electroflash
• Equipment – Scizzors, cutting and creasing press
 Cutting process
• The most efficient layout of pattern pieces
• Zik-zak – continuous, all movements are
operative, materials without hairs,
underwear, working clothes, the fastest
• Right-right – noncontinuous, one
movement operative – cut – turn, materials
with hairs, where hairs influence colour,
upper clothes, leather clothes, saving of
material, time consuming
• Right-back – noncontinuous, one
movement operative – cut – idly movement,
materials with hairs, upper clothes,
upholstery, same colour shade, lower saving
of material
Automatical cutter
Sewing process

• Jointing (sewing) of
clothing parts to the
clothing product.
• Sewed mailny by hand
and machine equipment
• Sewed with stitches and
seems
 Stitches
Stitch is a single complete in-and-out movement of the
threaded needle in sewing. (needle thread, bobbin hook thread, looper thread)
• Single-Thread Chain Stitch (class 100)
• Hand Stitch (class 200)
• Lock Stitch (class 300)
• Chain Stitch (class 400)
• Overedge Stitch (class 500)
• Flat Stitch (class 600)
• Button Hole Stitches (makes holes for button), Button Sew
Stitches
Single-Thread Chain Stitch (class 100)
– one thread, used for basting, light
construction, blindstitches

Hand Stitch (class 200) – one thread,

Back stitch (basting, tacking, repairs), running stitch (topstitching)
Lock Stitch (class 300) – two threads, used for general seaming,
topstitching, multiple plies, zig-zag stitching for stretch material

Chain Stitch (class 400) – two threads, used for stretched and knitted
material, coverstitching where greater stretch is required
Overedge Stitch (class 500) – 2,4,5 threads, used for
serging (covering) raw edges, thread cross-over is on the
edge of the fabric

Flat Stitch (class 600) – 4,5,6 threads, used for cover stitch for over-
stitching seams, seaming stitch for hemming on knits, decorative
stitch for knits and wovens
Lockstitch
Sewing needle
• Chosen according to the
weight and the texture
of the fabric to be sewn.
• Ball-point or wedge
needles - knitted
• Double needle
 Seems
Seem is a joining of two pieces of material with a line of stitches.
• SS class – Superimposed seams - in which two or more plies of fabric are
superimposed on each other
• LS class – Lapped seams - in which two or more plies of fabric are
superimposed and/or folded on each other

• BS class – Bound (Binding) seams - in which one ply of fabric is sewn over
the edge of two or more plies of fabric
• FS class – Flat (Butted) seams - in which two or more plies of fabric are
sewn together at the edges
• EF class – Edge finish stitching - fabric edge is finished with stitching

• OS class – Ornamental stitching - stitches sewn on one ply of fabric

http://www.yourdictionary.com/seam, http://www.garmento.org/751Astitchesandseams/index.html
pressure
Sewing machine mechanism
mechanism feeding of upper yarns mechanism

needle
movements
mechanism
feeding of
sewed
material transmission
mechanism mechanism

stitch length sewing machine

checking body
and back capture of loop mechanism
motion
+ pedestal, gearing, greasing, lower yarn winding on mechanism
 Sewing machine mechanism

Overcasting machines
-Loop catcher
-Knife

Auxiliary equipments to make process easier

 Sewing process
• Parting according to use – for home, manufacturing,
industry
• Parting accorting to ease – light, middle, hard
• Parting according to operation – simple sewing,
embroidering, hemming, seaming, faggoting, reinforcing,
overcasting, for holes making, share sewing, single-purpose
sewing, automatical lines …
• Parting according to branch - underwear, upper wear,
technical confection, hatter´s, shoemaking, leather …
• Parting according to type of automation – without
automation, with automation parts, partly-automated (not
feeding), automated, fully automated working place
 Sewing process

Technological parting according to working desk of machine

and shape – plain, culumnar, with shoulder, special shaped

With various numbers of needles and yarns

Sewing
rooms
 Forming process
• Forming gives to product its final look mainly by thermal
and wet-thermal incidence.
• Fixation gives shape and size stability.
Forming equipment

Irons, gooses
Ironing machines, organs
Ironing boards, tables
Figurines
Crimping machines
Shaping parts
Parts for printing
Steaming machines
Reinforcing machines
Pressing
Forming
Finishing process

Cleaning, local cleaning

Surface adjustment
Clothes printing
Special surface treatment
Assembling of complex clothes
Button and hole sewing
Adjustment
Labeling
Packing
Embroidery machine
 Garment analysis and inspection
• Visual inspection – before use,
after use, after laundry, etc.
• Laboratory analysis, quality –
according to standarts,
comparing with similar product,
other specifications
• Statisticaly independent x every
piece
 Sewing threads
• Specifications: good sewing ability, low breakage rate,
evenness, good tenacity and elongation, abrasion resistance,
bending rigidity; size and colour stability, stability of twist
size and direction
• High mechanical and thermical loading
Natural materials Syntetical
Cotton – basic use Polyester, Polyamid
Linen – high tenacity Short, continuous, core yarn
Skin, natural friendly High tenacity, elasticity
 Sewing threads - manufacturing
• Single yarn manufacturing – evenness; carded, combed
ring, rotor
• Winding
• Doubling
• Plying – dry, wet; parallel, opposite twist; single, multiply
• Finishing – Mercerizing, bleaching, dying, washing, burnig
off, conditioning, tunbling, …
• Winding
• Adjustment, labeling, packing
Thank you for your attention.

Questions?

pavla.vozkova@tul.cz