Professional Documents
Culture Documents
HARI SINGH
GOUR VISHVIDIYALA SAGAR M.P.
ASSIGNMENT ON
4 Exposure and risk assessment consideration for cosmetic product and 10-11
ingredient
6 PHOTOSENSITIVITY
1) Sunlight
2) UV-Induced Erythema
3) Phototoxicity Reactions
4) Phototoxicity Assays
5) Photoallergic Reactions
6) Photoallergenicity Assays
Reference 47
In the U.S., the Food, Drug and Cosmetic Act designate the Food and Drug Administration as
the agency responsible for cosmetic safety. For this purpose, the FDA has defined cosmetics
as "articles to be rubbed, poured, sprinkled, or sprayed on or introduced into, or otherwise
applied to the human body or any part thereof for cleansing, beautifying, promoting
attractiveness, or altering the appearance, and articles intended for use as a component of any
such articles; except that such term shall not include soap." The exemption for soap applies
only to a composition consisting of an alkali metal salt of a fatty acid that is intended only for
cleansing. Certain cosmetic products that are "intended for use in the diagnosis, cure,
mitigation, treatment or prevention of disease" are classified by FDA as drugs. This category
includes sunscreen products, anticavity toothpastes, antiperspirants (as opposed to
deodorants, which are "cosmetics"), and antidandruff preparations, "medicated" skin lotions
and liquids, skin protectants, and hair restorers. Under the regulations, the active ingredients
in cosmetic drug products must be safe and effective according to the appropriate monograph
covering the claimed indication.
The only category of cosmetic ingredient subject to FDA approval is colors used for
purposes other than dyeing the hair. There are only 36 "certified colors” and 23 "permitted"
colors available for general use in cosmetics, and a further 7 that are permitted only for
specific uses. In addition, a number of lakes of the soluble certified colors are available. For
all other cosmetic ingredients, the safety evaluation is the responsibility of the manufacturer.
In order to assist its members in this, the Cosmetic, Toiletry, and Fragrance Association
(CTFA) established in 1976 the Cosmetic Ingredient Review (CIR) to review all the available
data on an ingredient and todecide whether the ingredient is safe under the conditions of use.
The CIR expert panel comprises six independent scientists as voting members and a
nonvoting member representing each of the CTFA, the FDA, and the consumer. By 1996, the
CIR had reviewed over 600 ingredients, finding 64% to be safe as used, 27% to be safe for
use under defined conditions, 8% to have insufficient data, and five ingredients to be unsafe.
The General Toxicological Requirements for Cosmetic Ingredients (1996 revision) state :
The major problem of human testing for skin irritation or compatibility is the extended
duration and relatively high cost of this clinical testing. In vitro skin irritation test methods
could be used to rank chemicals or formulations for skin irritation potential, even at the low
end of the irritation spectrum. These methods (and others under development elsewhere)
might provide for short-term, cost-effective approaches for screening chemicals and product
formulations of interest, so that only those with satisfactory skin irritation profiles would
undergo longer and more costly clinical evaluations.
A) Skin corrosion testing
Assay Systems
Screening of chemicals for skin corrosion properties in vitro has followed three general
formats. These include
1) Changes in electrical conductance across intact skin (rat or human),
2) Breaching of noncellular biobarriers, and
3) cellular cytotoxicity in skin or epidermal equivalent cell culture systems.
Each of these systems has been subject to intra- and interlaboratory development, evaluation,
and validation.
Skin corrosivity has been distinguished from skin irritation in two important ways.
First, corrosive skin reactions generally occur soon after chemical exposure and are
irreversible.
Second, it is thought that the major processes leading to chemical corrosivity are more
commonly physicochemical in nature rather than the result of inflammatory biological
events, although inflammation is a common consequence of skin corrosion.
Initial efforts to develop a screening test for skin corrosivity examined the effects of chemical
exposure on barrier function of skin through assessment of changes in the resistance of the
exposed skin to transmission of electric current. This test method, called transcutaneous
electrical resistance (TER), was based on early studies of the electrical resistance properties
of skin and has been developed as a corrosivity assay over the past 15 years using either rat or
human skin.
After chemical exposure, the electrical resistance of the skin is measured. TER
values empirically established as corrosion thresholds have been set at 4 K ohms
for rat skin and 11 K ohms for human skin.
The current validation status of this assay is described in the following section.
The biobarrier destruction assay approach for corrosivity testing is exemplified by
the commercial Corrositex assay system manufactured by In Vitro International
(Irvine, CA).
Like the TER assay, the premise here is physicochemical destruction of a barrier
by direct chemical action of a test material. Instead of intact stratum corneum, the
Corrositex assay relies on a macromolecular protein matrix as the barrier.
Chemicals that breach this barrier come into contact with an underlying chemical
detection system (CDS).
A color change indicates penetration of the test material into the CDS. The speed
with which the color change occurs after application of the chemical to the
biobarrier is proportional to the severity of corrosive action.
These have included simple submerged cell cultures, submerged cell co cultures
incorporating more than a single cell type, and, more recently, the development of full
thickness skin and epidermal equivalent systems. The latter are characterized by stratified
epidermal cell layers and a multilayered stratum corneum. The full-thickness culture systems
also have different types of cellular and macromolecular matrices serving as a dermal
element.
B) Irritancy tests
Ethically, any human test procedure must be approached with the safety of the subjects as a
priority. To this end, procedures have been developed that minimize the risk of serious
cutaneous reactions. These procedures use a stepwise approach of increasing times o f
exposure and bioengineering methods to minimize the danger and discomfort to the subjects
involved and to minimize the potential risk of irreversible skin damage. In most situations,
however, the product being tested is not novel and is related to previously studied
formulations. In this situation, the irritant potential can be determined by simple patch tests,
3. Facial-Stinging Test
Products may pass tests such as the cumulative irritancy test, but still cause problems for
the consumer. Disagreeable sensations may occur, particularly when products are applied
to sensitive areas such as the face. A not infrequent complaint is that of stinging or burning
or itching after application. Signs of irritation, such as erythema or scaliness, may not
necessarily occur in this situation. Part of the reason for such sensations is that facial skin
is very permeable and has a rich nerve supply. It is also exposed to weathering and a
constant bombardment of cosmetics and cleansers.These may all contribute to increased
sensitivity of this area. A method to assess the stinging capacity of topical materials has
been described. Subjects who are sensitive to the stinging sensation of lactic acid are
selected as panelists for testing new products. Their subjective responses are noted, and a
cumulative score is derived that is considered indicative of the potential for stinging in the
C) ANIMAL MODELS
1) Draize Rabbit Models
The Draize model and its modifications are commonly used to assay skin irritation using
albino rabbits. Various governmental agencies have adopted these methods as standard test
procedure. The procedure adopted in the U.S. Federal Hazardous Substance Act (FHSA) is
described and compares this method some other modifications of the Draize model.
Draize-FHSA Models
Number of animal’s 6 albino rabbits (clipped)
Test sites 2 _ 1 inch2 sites on dorsum
One site intact, the other abraded, e.g.,
with hypodermic needle
Test materials Applied undiluted to both test site
Liquids: 0.5 mL
Solids/semisolids: 0.5g
Occlusion 1 inch2 surgical gauze over each test site
Rubberized cloth over entire trunk
Occlusion period 24 hours
Assessment 24 and 72 hours
Visual scoring system
Edema formation
1) No edema 0
2) Very slight edema (barely perceptible) 1
3) Slight edema (edges of area well defined by definite 2
raising)
4) Moderate edema (raised _1 mm) 3
5) Severe edema (raised _1 mm and extending beyond 4
the area of exposure)
Allenby et al. describe the arm immersion model of compromised skin, which
is designed to test the irritant or allergic potential of substances on damaged
skin. Such skin may show an increased response, which may be negligible or
undetectable in normal skin. The test subject immersed one forearm in a
solution of 0.5% sodium dodecyl sulfate for 10 minutes, twice daily until the
degree of erythema reached 1 to 1_ on visual scale. This degree of damage
corresponded to a morning’s wet domestic work. Patch tests of various
The Draize test uses a systematic numeric grading system to quantify the eye irritation
response (Table 6). Changes associated with the cornea, conjunctiva, and iris are assessed by
using a pen light.
Scores are assigned for the various changes. The scores for the
cornea,conjunctiva, and iris are weighted such that changes associated with the
cornea are given the most weight, with the maximum score for the cornea
being 80 out of a total possible score of 110.
A test substance’s potential to cause ocular irritation is then determined by
assessing the individual animal scores, the maximum average score (highest
mean group score during the study), and days to recovery.
In general, innocuous or slightly irritating materials tend to affect only the
conjunctiva, and the eye recovers in 1 to 2 days; mildly to moderately
irritating materials affect the conjunctiva and cornea, and the eye recovers in
days to weeks; and moderately to severely irritating materials affect the
cornea, iris, and conjunctiva, and the eye recovers in weeks or not at all.
Scale of Weighted Scores for Grading the Severity of Ocular Lesions Ocular effects
Grade
Conjunctivae
(A) Redness (refers to palpebral conjunctivae only)
Vessels definitely injected above normal 1
More diffuse, deeper crimson red, individual vessels not easily discernible 2
Diffuse beefy red 3
(B) Chemosis
Any swelling above normal (includes nictitating membrane) 1
Obvious swelling with partial eversion of the lids 2
Swelling with lids about half closed 3
Swelling with lids about half closed to completely closed 4
(C) Discharge
Any amount different from normal (does not include small amounts observed in inner
canthus of normal animals) 1
Discharge with moistening of the lids and hairs just adjacent to the lids 2
Department of Pharmaceutical Sciences, Dr H.S. Gour Central University, Sagar (M.P.)-470003
Discharge with moistening of the lids and considerable area around the eye3
Score = (A + B+ C) X 2 (range, 0 to 20)
Induction Phase
The induction phase varies according to the protocol, but essentially consists of multiple
Dosage
Undoubtedly the induction and elicitation of an contact sensitization reaction is dose
dependent. The higher the concentration, the more likely it is that individuals who are
predisposed will become sensitized. With final formulations the test concentration is
predetermined. When a range of therapeutic doses is being considered, the highest dose likely
to be used clinically should be tested. With raw ingredients, the highest nonirritating
concentration may be tested, depending on the likely exposure. As with irritancy, the area
over which an allergen is applied is important.
With a potent sensitizer, such as 2,4-dinitrochlorobenzene (DNCB), higher dose–
(d) PHOTOSENSITIVITY
It is possible that topically applied or systemically administered chemicals or drugs that have
little or no potential to promote an irritant or allergic reaction in the skin, may do so in the
presence of sunlight. Although photosensitive reactions may be rare, relative to irritant or
sensitization reactions, the development of such reactions can lead to withdrawal from the
market (e.g., the antirheumatic drug, benoxaprofen).
1. Sunlight
Electromagnetic radiation is classified according to wavelength ranges. Electromag
netic radiation emitted by the sun ranges from very short wavelength cosmic rays to very
long wavelength radio waves. Short-wavelength, high-energy forms of radiation such as
gamma and x-rays, are termed ionizing radiation, whereas longer lower energy radiation
(more than 800 nm) is nonionizing and increases molecular motion, giving a thermal effect.
Wavelengths between 200 and 800 nm are capable of causing chemical changes if absorbed
by molecules in the skin. Ultraviolet radiation falls into this category and is between 100 and
400 nm. Fortunately for us, no wavelengths shorter than about 288 nm reach the earth’s
surface, because these are filtered out by the earth’s atmospheric ozone layer. Damage to this
important protective layer by man-made chemicals such as chlorofluorocarbons (CFCs) is
currently under review and the subject of much discussion.
UVR is subdivided into UVC (100–280 nm), UVB (280–320 nm), and UVA (320–
400 nm). UVA can be further subdivided into UVA II (320–340 nm) and UVA I (340–400
nm) .
Nonionizing Radiation
UVC 100–280 nm
UVB 280–320 nm
Although sunlight that reaches the earth is essential to most living organisms and has many
beneficial effects for humans, it is UVB and UVA that are responsible for most of the
cutaneous photobiological events. These include DNA and RNA damage, inhibition of
protein synthesis, damage to liposomal and cellular membranes, mutagenic and carcinogenic
effects and erythematous responses. Chronic UV exposure is also responsible for dermal
connective tissue injury (elastosis) leading to the changes known as photoaging.
2. UV-Induced Erythema
It is important to remember that sunlight is a continuous spectrum and that it is in its entirety
that it causes erythema or sunburn in exposed skin. The paler the skin the greater the
erythematous response for any given dose of UVR. Thus, skin type-I burns far more readily
than skin type-VI (Table 8). UVB is primarily responsible for most of the erythema seen in
human skin following excessive sun exposure. This response is apparent approximately 6 h
following exposure and is maximal at 20–24 h. In contrast to UVB, UVA can induce an
immediate erythema that usually diminishes within 2 h of exposure. It can also give a delayed
erythematous response that reaches a peak at 6 h. UVA contributes to about 10–20% of
sunburn and passes through window glass, in contrast to UVB, which is essentially blocked
by window glass. UVA can also induce an immediate pigment darkening response (IPD).
This reaction appears within seconds of exposure and fades within a few minutes. The
pigment darkening is due to a photochemical reaction involving the oxidation of a low
molecular weight form of melanin in melanosomes. The response is clearest in skin type-III,
IV, or V individuals who have higher levels of melanin. Prolonged exposure to UVA can lead
to persistent pigment darkening (PPD) or tanning of the skin. The effects described so far are
the results of UVR itself; however, photosensitivity reactions can occur when an exogenous
or endogenous chemical (chromophore) absorbs UVR or visible light. These reactions may
be either phototoxic (photoirritant) or photosensitive (photoallergic).
3. Phototoxicity Reactions
Phototoxicity refers to skin irritation that is produced through the interaction of
chemical substances and radiant energy in the ultraviolet and visible ranges. Phototoxic or
4. Phototoxicity Assays
The development of procedures for assessing both the phototoxic (and photoallergic)
potential of chemicals has, in general, been carried out in laboratory animals. A wide range of
animal species have been used, including rabbits, mice, guinea pigs, squirrel monkeys,
opossums, and swine. All methods require the skin to be irradiated with UVA following
application of the test substance. However the measurable end result is not always similar to
that obtained from human experiments. Increases in guinea pig or mouse ear thickness has
been used to quantify phototoxic responses.
Dermatitis and the increase in weight of the mouse tail has also been used. However,
hairless mice and albino guinea pigs have been used where simple erythema was the
toxicological endpoint for assessing a phototoxic response.The results obtained from such
experiments may be false-negative or false-positive when extrapolated to humans.
Kaidbey and Kligman suggested a method for identifying potential topical phototoxic
agents in humans, although the title of this publication misguidedly refers to photosensitizing,
rather than phototoxic agents. Human testing is ethical as only small areas of skin are
irradiated and clinical experience of phototoxic reactions indicate that when the stimulus is
removed the dermatitis subsides. As with all clinical trials the informed consent of the subject
and ethical committee approval must be obtained. The method we recommended is based on
that of Kaidbey and Kligman and is suitable for assessing the phototoxic potential of topically
applied drugs, chemicals, transdermal, and skin care products.
In the protocol for phototoxicity testing, a test panel consisting of a minimum of 12
healthy white adults with untanned back skin is required. As the dermatitis of a phototoxic
6. Photoallergenicity Assays
Test procedures to identify potential photosensitizers have received less attention
thanmethods designed to detect either ordinary contact sensitizers or phototoxic chemicals.
Landsteiner and Chase demonstrated that low molecular weight haptens can produce contact
dermatitis in guinea pigs. They also observed that allergic contact dermatitis could be
conferred on immunologically naive guinea pigs by the passive transfer of mononuclear cells
from nonsensitized animals. Furthermore guinea pigs develop edema and erythema after
contact with topically applied sensitizers and, to some extent, develop a response similar to
the clinical response in humans.
These observations became the cornerstone of photocontact allergic dermatitis
research over many years and led to the guinea pig becoming the most commonly used
animal in photoallergy studies.
On the other hand, mouse ear swelling is claimed to be a more sensitive model, but is
even further removed from the human response than that of the guinea pig. To induce contact
photosensitivity in any animal it has to be repeatedly exposed to the test molecule in the
presence of UVR. For this induction phase a broad-spectrum source is necessary, which
should include UVB as well as UVA.
The period of induction should be similar to that for testing contact sensitizers,
followed by a rest period and then a challenge on a previously untested site with the test
chemical and UVA alone. The photomaximization test for the prediction of photosensitizers
This procedure of application and irradiation is repeated such that each subject has six
applications and irradiations over a 6-wk period. The sites are evaluated 24 h after each
irradiation and, if the reaction becomes severe such that further application and irradiation is
undesirable, then application of the material and subsequent irradiation is carried out at an
adjacent site.
Following completion of the induction phase, there is a 2-wk rest period, with no
applications or irradiations. Approximately 14 days after the end of the induction phase, two
sets of test materials are applied to previously untreated sites on the midback, again using 12-
mm–Finn chambers. Twenty-four hours later the patches are removed, the skin wiped dry
2
with a gauze swab, and one set of applications irradiated with only 4 J/cm of UVA. The sites
are then evaluated at 24, 48, and 72 h after the elicitation irradiation. The grading system for