License:Public Domain Dedication (pd)Intro:
Time Lapse Intervalometer for Canon Cameras (no programming or graphing calculator needed)
This details how to make your very own intervalometer (time lapse shutter control) for a Canon SLR or any camera that can be controlled with a standard 2.5mm plug. Itwill happily give you a variable time lapse from 1 second to 1 hour. I know this has been done before but this circuit uses very common parts that can all be found atRadio Shack; no Arduino or other microcontrollers or graphing calculator to make it work. It also has a wider range, easier to set time and more reliable triggering thanthe instructable that uses the 555 circuit. No offense to that author, I was just trying to keep things simple while building a better mousetrap.Note: any camera that accepts a TTL LOW signal to capture an image will work but you will need to figure out the connection on your own.
First Things First
You will need:-Skills: (cause chicks dig guys with skills) Schematic Reading Soldering-Parts: Compatible camera 2.5mm plug (a wired cell phone headset is your best source) Case for the circuitry, Altoids tin is almost too small CD4093 -or- CD40106 CD4024 4x 1N4148 2N3904 100k pot, preferably log (audio) taper 2x 100k resistor 10k resistor 1.8k resistor SPST switch for power SPDT switch for sec/min (i used a single on-off-on DPDT for power and range) 9V Battery Clip .22uF capacitor 330uF capacitorAll component values are non-critical. I built this device using only items in my shop/ junk bin at the time. The plug can be a Tip-Sleeve or a Tip-Ring-Sleeve (2 or 3contacts) this will only alter your build slightly.A 1M linear pot and a 120k resistor will give you more accuracy, but you will have to turn it backwards. Check the last step for more info.
Some things to take note of (in order of importance):-Power connections are not drawn. Connect positive power to pin 14 and ground to pin 7 of all chips-I highly recommend building this on a breadboard before you commit it to solder.-Any supply voltage from 3 to 15 volts should work, but might mess up your timing. A well regulated supply is recommended if you don't use a battery.-You can use any CMOS inverting Schmitt trigger. I used the 4093 because I had it. Don’t forget to tie any unused inputs to the supply or ground, CMOS chips canoscillate and cause problems when the inputs float.-A log (audio) taper pot will give you a more accurate interval setting at the lower end and will save you a headache when you are trying to set a time between 1 and 10seconds. Looking at the front of the pot, use the two leftmost lugs for your connection. Again, check to last step for an alternative.-Some capacitance across the supply is a good idea, especially if you are going to run your circuit off of non-battery power, a .1uF film or ceramic in parallel with anylarger electrolytic is probably overkill, but will work.-Schmitt trigger oscillators are not very accurate. Supply voltage will affect the frequency. My 100k pot was actually 96k and my 330uF cap was 3 paralleled 100uF capsand my timing came out to almost exactly 1-60 sec/min. If you are worried about accurate timing, play with your values and a stopwatch to get it right.-If your circuit seems to be working, but won’t trigger your camera, try increasing the size of the .22uF cap. This should increase the trigger time, allowing your cameraenough time to realize it needs to take a picture.-You can use LEDS hooked up to the outputs of the 4024 through 1k resistors to visually confirm that your circuit is working. Your circuit should trigger in time with Q0 onthe seconds setting and once the bits “walk” out to Qs 3, 4, 5 and 6 on the minutes setting.